Now that it’s done, I can’t believe it took me this long to take the plunge, the end reward is WELL worth the effort. 

While I am so excited to show the finally reveal allow me to take you through a brief review of the steps we took in order to achieve our dream bathroom. 

  Our master bathroom actually did have some great qualities.  I cannot complain about the square footage or the high ceilings.  They definitely were huge advantages when designing the space.  However, that is the extent of the “pros” (in my opinion).  While there was plenty of space, the layout was not great, and it actually left some square footage on the table when they installed a corner unit vanity.  The shower and tub were in good locations, but the wall dividing the shower created a very cave like feeling and closed off the room.  While the tub was “okay”, I have always dreamed of a freestanding tub. With the many changes I wanted to make we decided the best approach was to gut the bathroom and start from the ground up.  So that is just what we did! 

Demo

 I think as a general consensus taking the first step in a major project is always the hardest.  You pass that point of no return and you are committed.  That can be a seriously scary thing.  Whether your doubts are in your abilities or possibly in your tool supply… to that I say: “Where there is a will there is a way.”

There are plenty of resources out there to help supplement your “know-how”.  There are so many professional resources that walk you through each step! Home Depot actually has a ton of online “How-to-Guides” by the pro’s!  You can check out their library of resources here. 

But that brings us to the more tangible limitations…tools.  AGAIN, The Home Depot has got you covered! Obviously, The Home Depot is your one -stop-shop for all this tools, but what if you are aren’t ready to invest in some of the larger tools, or possibly don’t have the space to store larger tools?   The Home Depot has the answer.  Did you know that you can RENT tools in-store?

  You can check out all the amazing options here: The Home Depot Tool Rental

 If this picture of all those readily available tools doesn’t make your heart happy, then you might be denying your inner DIY loving heart.  Just saying. 

 The demo part of this process definitely required bringing in some scarcely used tools which would be a great opportunity to rent instead of buy.  Just a thought. 

Drywall Ceiling

After the demo was complete and we were down to ground zero, it was time to start rebuilding.  For us the most logical place to start was by repairing all the walls.  

We wanted to start with a fresh, blank canvas. So, we repaired and, in some cases, replaced the dry wall that was removed during the demo process.  It was at this point that we also added Durarock to the shower. 

It was amazing how much more opened the room felt once we had the dry wall replaced and skim coated all the surfaces to remove the texture.

At this point we actually. Deviated away from our original plan.  The original plan did not include a planked ceiling, but the heart wants what the heart wants. We postponed our timeline and tackled adding nickel gap board to the ceiling. 

It was a fairly quick project.  The majority of the time was actually allotted to installing the fir stripping that we attach to the rafters that we would then attach our nickel gap boards to (running perpendicularly). 

We used these Nickel Gap Shiplap Boardand I am very pleased with their quality, and they look beautiful with a paint finish. 

Shower and Floor Prep

In the past all of my tile jobs have been limited to backsplashes and floors.  It was always in a decorative capacity.  When it came to tiling for practicality it was a whole new beast. After watching many online tutorials we were able to figure out grading the shower pan and waterproofing the walls.

Once all the walls were prepped it was time to get the tile.  Again, if you are new to DIY something like selecting tile and calculating how much you will need can be overwhelming.  The Home Depot is here to help.  Did you know that they have project calculators?  The “Project Calculator” is an awesome little feature that allows you to plug in your space dimensions, the type and size of the material you are using (in this case tile) and the feature will calculate home much tile you will need for your specific project.  The project calculator is not limited to just tile,  it has options for calculating materials for a plethora of projects. 

After agonizing over my tile selections, I finally was able to select my colors. (There were seriously so many great options, I had a hard time narrowing it down!) 

Ultimately, I went with Bianco Dolomite or the shower wall tile, Bianco Dolomite Hexagon for the shower floor and FLOOR TILE.

  If you have been around awhile,  you are well aware that I very rarely  ever hire out  help especially if the project is in my wheelhouse.  Well  this time my sanity won out. We ended up hiring help with the tiling portion of this project. I pride myself in doing everything myself, but this is one decision I do not regret!  If you are looking for more information on tiling make sure you check out The Home Depot’s “How-To Tile a Shower”  for more information. 

Doors

Our home came with very basic builder grade doors, they weren’t bad but they weren’t great. I believe at this point in the project I was at the “If you give a mouse a cookie” phase. I had already gutted the entire bathroom and created my dream bathroom, why stop short? I went ALL in, and man am I glad I did. The doors actually became a focal point and carry the color up the wall. Oddly enough the doors are one of my favorite parts of the room.

I selected a simple Two Panel Door that was beautiful! (No fake wood grain on this beauty!) I also realized how much a door knob could add to the look of a door! I found these Schlage Aged Bronze Door Knob.

Install Storage

The bathroom was really coming together at this point, but I still had a few tricks up my sleeve.  While the bathroom was quite large it was desperately lacking storage space.  Luckily for me, the bathroom wall also shared a wall with our hall linen closet. So, I pulled a switcha–roo. I opened up the back side of the cabinet (that shared a wall with the bathroom) and closed off the original access (removing the door and adding drywall etc.)  

 By opening up this space to the bathroom instead of the hall it gave me room to add a linen closet and TONS of character. 

If you have been following along you KNOW I have a love for built ins. I recently built a  Custom Pantry that I created specifically to fit in a empty wall cavity.  Shortly before that I created a custom Built-In Storage Armoire using two pre-made pantry cabinets. Well for the bathroom linen closet I took a page out of both tutorials and combined both ideas.  I used several different pre-made cabinets to create one MEGA linen 

Linen Closet 

• Hampton Bay Pantry Cabinets
• Hampton Bay 12” Upper Cabinet
• Liberty Hardware 12” Pulls

Install Trim Work

 We are in the home stretch now! As much as I wanted to slap some paint on this sucker and call it good… I knew I wanted the classic elegance of wainscoting. 

 I don’t know about you but something as simple as trim work can totally elevate the space! 

 If you want to add trim to your space, you can check out either of these two tutorials. 

• Kitchen Island Makeover
• Guest Bedroom Accent Wall

I am always amazed at how much trim can add to any space.  Here are the materials I prefer to use when trimming a room. 

Trim Work Materials: 

• Nickel Gap Shiplap Board (Ceiling)
• 1”x 3” Finger Joint Board  (Door Casing) 
• 1”x 4” Finger Joint Board  (Vertical and Horizontal Wainscoting) 
• 1” x 6” Finger Joint Board (Baseboards)
• 1”x 8” Finger Joint Board (Interior Window Trim) 
• Hardboard Panel MDF (Back of Wainscoting) 
• 8’  Base Cap Molding  (Interior Wainscoting)
• Two Panel Door

Prep and Paint

 When it comes to painting, I am always torn on the painting method I want to take.   I am normally really anxious to get going, so rolling really calls to me.  However, I am always so much happier with the final product when I use a sprayer.  I feel like both methods take about the same amount of time; the difference is when spraying you spend the majority of that time prepping rather than painting. 

I wasn’t going to cut corners on this bathroom, so I rolled up my sleeves and pulled out the painter’s tape, painters’ plastic, and paper.  I needed to cover anything that would not be painted. 

Once everything was prepped, I got to work spraying.  When spraying I use the Fuji Spray Semi-Pro Sprayer. OR, if you aren’t ready to invest in a sprayer you can always rent one  from The Home Depot.

• Wall Color- Snowbound
• Trim/Wainscoting- Agreeable Gray 

Install Fixtures

Vanity Area

   This is the best part of the project, when you start to bring in all the major pieces and you start to really see the space come together.  When selecting a vanity, it was important to me to have a nice countertop and have plenty of storage space.   I went back and forth on quite a few different colored options but decided on something simple. If I ever want to change the look of the bathroom it is much easier to do if I have a blank canvas. Plus, the linen closet/armoire was going to be a nice warm wood tone, and I didn’t want to have to compete with it (color wise). 

 I selected the Home Decorators Collection Double Vanity and I love it. 

 I paired the vanity with a gorgeous 48” Glass Warehouse Brass Vanity Mirror/. If you have been around a little while you might recognize it from my Powder Bathroom Makeover. (I used the 36” version in the powder room.) I found that Delta faucets in their “Champagne” color collections paired best with my color palette. 

The finishing touch for this space was the Home Decorator’s Collection Mini Pendant.  They were the perfect size, they hung at the right height, and you couldn’t beat their price, however I needed something in brass and black.  No fear, this is a DIY blog, is it not? If you have never spray painted a light fixture, no worries I have got you covered.  Quite literally one of my very first blog posts covered this very topic! 

Vanity Area Products:

• Glass Warehouse Vanity Mirrors
• Home Decorators Double Vanity
• Delta Trisnic Widespread Mount
• Vanity Hardware (5 1/8” pulls)
• Vanity Hardware (Knobs)
• Vanity Light Fixture Pendant (I spray painted mine.)

Tub Area

Which brings us to the tub area.  Words do not quite describe how excited I was for this particular area.  I have never found soaking in a tub very relaxing, probably because I would sit and stare at my surroundings and think of all the potential the space had.  NOW the space has met its potential and I can sit and soak it in… in my freestanding tub with a brass faucet.  

 When selecting my tub it was more than just aesthetics I had to consider. There were logistics to be considered, namely the size!  My space allotted for the tub was not huge, so I needed to find a tub to fit those dimensions.  After looking at a ton of options I landed on the Vanity Art Bordeux Tub.   Naturally with an elegant looking freestanding tub, I needed to freestanding tub filler to match.  I found that the Jacuzzi Contento Tub Filler was the best bang for my buck and a very close match to the tone of brass I had throughout the rest of the bathroom.

 I finished off the area with the Progress Lighting Linen Shade Chandelier.  If it looks familiar, that’s probably because it is! I loved this fixture so much in my Office Makeover that I decided to use it in the bathroom as well. 

Tub Area Products: 

•  Freestanding Tub
• Jacuzzi Freestanding Tub Filler
• Linen Shade 6-Light Fixture

Shower Area

Ready to wrap this project up? ME TOO!  The last area I needed to tackle was the shower.  Long before we ever started the bathroom makeover, we dreamed of having two shower heads in a bigger shower.  Well, try as we might we just couldn’t configure any way to make it work. We exhausted a lot of options but ultimately decided it wasn’t in the cards. 

But wait, I might not have been able to swing two full size shower heads, but a handheld option might be just the ticket! PLUS, I am really digging the look of the sliding bar in the shower, so everything works out. I have two shower heads per se, and it looks like a million bucks. 

 I used the Delta Stryke Shower Head and Valve(s) and the Delta Slide Bar Hand Shower. 

As I was doing my research for glass shower enclosures, I realized I had to have my class custom fit. After doing a little inquiring I found that some Home Depot locations do work with specialist that can custom cut glass.  Check with your local Home Depot to see if that location offers those services. 

Shower Area Products: 

• Delta Sliding Bar w/ Handheld Sprayer
• Delta Elbow for Handheld Sprayer 

In Review

Are you ready to see how this whole space came together?

Drumroll please…I give you my Master Bathroom Makeover!

I will admit that a bathroom remodel is not for the faint of heart, but IT IS doable!  I personally have put off this project for years because of the intimidation factor. I didn’t exactly know what I was doing. However, I did not let that stop me from trying!

 I looked to other colleagues for advice, scrolled through all the professional tutorials The Home Depotwebsite had to offer, and called in reinforcements when I needed it. Sometimes extra help comes in the forms of professionals and sometimes it just means more tools than what you have access too.  If that is one of your hurdles, cross it off of your excuse list.  The Home Depot is a great resource for tool rental, professional tutorials, AND they can even help with your custom projects with help of their material calculators. 

No matter the skillset or the toolbox you can improve your home if you have will to make it happen! 

Sources: 

Tub Area Products:

•  Freestanding Tub
• Jacuzzi Freestanding Tub Filler
• Linen Shade 6-Light Fixture

Vanity Area Products:

• Glass Warehouse Vanity Mirrors
• Home Decorators Double Vanity
• Delta Trisnic Widespread Mount
• Vanity Hardware (5 1/8” pulls)
• Vanity Hardware (Knobs)
• Vanity Light Fixture Pendant (I spray painted mine.)

Shower Area Products: 

• Delta Sliding Bar w/ Handheld Sprayer
• Delta Elbow for Handheld Sprayer 

Linen Closet Products:

• Hampton Bay Pantry Cabinets
• Liberty Hardware 12” Pulls

Trim Work Products: 

• Nickel Gap Shiplap Board (Ceiling)
• 1”x 3” Finger Joint Board
• 1”x 4” Finger Joint Board
• 1” x 6” Finger Joint Board
• 1”x 8” Finger Joint Board
• Hardboard Panel MDF
• 8’  Base Cap Molding
• Two Panel Door
• Schlage Aged Bronze Door Knob

Tile Products: 

• Bianco Dolomite Tile (Shower Wall) 
• Bianco Dolomite Hexagon (Shower Floor)
• FLOORING

The post Master Bathroom Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I had a dream that consisted of a rich dark color, inset moulding and oodles of character. I was more than eager to take on the KILZ #AccentWallChallenege ! It’s through our great partner  KILZ® Brand that I can show you how you can create your own accent wall and elevate any space!

Tools Suggested: 

• Utility Knife 
• Pry Bar/Flat Bar
• Hammer 
• Tape Measure 
• Tablesaw / Circular Saw 
• 18g or 16g nailer
• 1/4″  drill bit 
• Drill 
• Jigsaw
• builders square
• Miter Saw 
• Level

Supplies Used:

• KILZ 3® Premium Primer
• Magnolia Home by Joanna Gaines® Paint in “Before and After”
•  Paneling Adhesive 
• 1 1/2″ finish nails.
• 1/8″ MDF Panels
• 1×6″ Primed Finger Boards 
• 1×4″  Primed Finger Boards 
• PVC Base Cap Moulding 
• Wood Filler 
• Paintable Caulk 
• 2 1/2″ Angled Paint Brush
• 6″ Foam Roller(s)
• Paint Tray(s)

Clear the Room

Before we begin, let’s clear the room. In my experience  plenty of workspace when installing board and batten is highly advisable!

Remove Baseboards

Before  I can actually begin installing the accent wall,  I need to remove pre-existing  baseboards and moulding if applicable.  In order to do this , I run a utility knife along the top ledge where the baseboard meets the wall. In doing so  I am cutting the caulk line and this will make it much easier to remove the baseboards. 

After the caulk line is cut, I use a pryer/flat bar to pull the baseboard away from the wall.

Map Out Wall

Before I can dive into the fun part, I need to map out my wall. Math is not my favorite,  but you will be so grateful that you planned out your wall in advance. When mapping a wall take into consideration any outlets or light switches you do not wish to move. When planning my wall, I made sure that none of my “battens” (1×6″, 1×4″ boards) would not land on top of an outlet.

Cut Panels

After the planning phase is complete it is time to apply the boards (1/8″ MDF panels).  In many cases you may  choose to forgo this step.  I have seen plenty of DIY bloggers attach their batten directly on top of drywall. I choose to take this extra step because of the texture of my drywall. My home has VERY HEAVY  knock-down texture.  My vision for this accent wall did not include a “HEAVY knock-down texture”.
When cutting panels I referenced my plans, and cut each panel so that the seams would be hidden behind my  vertical 1×4″ boards.

Apply Panels

Before attaching the panels to the bare wall, I liberally apply paneling adhesive to the back of each panel before securing it to the wall using a 16g or 18g nailer.

When  securing the panel to the wall I would advise only nailing along the edges. If you nail along the edges all the nail holes will be hidden by  battens ( 1×4″ & 1×6″ boards).  The adhesive will hold down the center of the MDF paneling.

This process will be repeated as many times as necessary to cover the entire space.

Accommodate Outlets

The process of installing paneling is fairly simple. The most complicated part of this step is accommodating outlets. Before you start breathing heavily into a paper bag,  grab your tape measure,  you are going to need it!  Honestly, this is not hard at all! Simply take the measurements of where the outlet would land on your paneling, and then cut it out. Use a tape measure to transfer where the intended outlet will be. Then using a jigsaw cut a space for the outlet.

Install Moulding and Baseboards

Once all of the MDF boards are installed we are ready to add the battens (1×4″ & 1×6″ boards). To begin, measure the wall length (take measurements for both ceiling  and floor measurements.) In a perfect world, where all the contractors build rooms square this would not be necessary. Alas we do not live in such a world, so take the time to measure both.

I opted to use 1×6″ boards as the baseboard and the top trim piece. Once both pieces are measured, marked and cut, install using 2″ finish nails.

Cut and Install Vertical Battens

It’s time to hide the MDF panel seams! Again take the time to measure each board individually. (Odds are that each opening has some slight discrepancies.)

As you install each vertical batten ensure that they are straight by enlisting the use of a level. Once they are correctly positioned (using your previously drafted plan) and level, shoot them in place using 2″ finish nails.

Install Horizontal Batten Boards

If desired add additional horizontal boards. Again, always measure each opening and use a level when installing.

Add Decorative Trim

Remember when I said I wanted to “oodles of character”?  Well my DIY friends, this is what an “oodle” worth of character looks like: 40 additional pieces of trim. I decided to add base cap moulding to the interior of all of my battens.

The process for installing the interior trim is very similar to the previous steps. Measure, cut install. The only major difference in this step is that we will be cutting our trim pieces on a 45 degree angle.  By doing so it will create beautiful mitered corners.

Caulk and Fill

We are getting so close to the fun part, just hang with me for one more final step before we bust out the paint brushes! Take a few minutes to run through and fill any  nails holes of gaps with a wood filler.  (Before painting, you will want to  sand off the excess filler with a sanding block. The filler will need to be completely dry before attempting to sand.  So while waiting for the filler to dry we will move on to the next step.

Almost there, we almost get to paint I promise!  Last thing needed is a little bit of caulk. In order to achieve a gorgeous end product we need to add a small bead of caulk to the interior of the edge cap moulding.  This will hide any unsightly gaps.

While the caulk is drying get ready for the most rewarding part of this project. Priming and painting!

Priming

Are you guys excited? I am excited! Before we start painting we are going to take one very important step to ensure our end product turns out beautiful and stays looking that way!   While MDF board is a great cost effective product, it can be a little fickle. It has a very smooth and shiny surface, both of which are not ideal for painting… this is where a good primer will be your best friend. It is important that you prime in order to achieve good adhesion of your top coat! 

While this is a simple fix, a good Primer like KILZ 3 Premium primer can also help with many different DIY woes.  If you have been around for a while you know that  KILZ saved me when renovating my camper.  It adhered to my cabinets like a charm, covered water damage, mystery stains, and even got rid of some funky odors. So yes, I am a big advocate for priming!

I suggest using a 2 1/2″ angled brush to apply KILZ 3 Premium primer to cut in all edges and paint all detailing trim. Take extra care to thoroughly paint all PVC trim. PVC trim is another excellent cost effective product but needs some extra help from KILZ primer to ensure proper paint adhesion.

After all edges  are cut in and molding painted, it is  time to break out the big guns… it is time for a 6″ foam roller. While I am normally a huge advocate for spraying my paint and primer on I was absolutely amazed at how smooth this primer went on with a cheap sponge roller!

Now we wait… just kidding.  KILZ 3 Premium primer is ready to paint in one hour!  I cannot even begin to  tell you how happy that makes this stir-crazy, impatient DIYer.  By the time I had all my paint supplies gathered my primer was dry and ready to top coat!

Paint

Following the same steps for priming, I applied my topcoat. As I mentioned at the very beginning of this project I wanted something a little dark and moody. I didn’t want it to feel like a cave,  but I wanted a moody feel. After scouring the internet for inspiration I found my muse. Magnolia Home by Joanna Gaines paint to the rescue! 

Browse All Magnolia Home colors Here

I mean how can you go wrong  when you combine KILZ quality with Joanna Gaines color selection!?  I was torn between several colors but ultimately decided on the color “Before & After” from the Magnolia Home by Joanna Gaines paint line.

Just look at this color !?  It takes this beautiful accent wall to an entirely new level! I will admit, this is my first time using this particular paint and I am SOLD!  It went on buttery smooth. I honestly didn’t think it was possible to get this smooth of a finish unless you used a sprayer. The Magnolia Home paint went on perfectly and covered beautifully. I cannot wait to try more colors throughout my home!

This room is absolutely transformed and I give full credit to this accent wall! Go ahead, try and imagine this room without  that wall.  It’s amazing how just one wall can change the entire feel of a room.

• Paint- Magnolia Home by Joanna Gaines paint in  “Before & After”
• Brass Bed- Amazon
• Clay Bedding-Target
• Bed Skirt- Amazon 
• Light Fixture-Amazon
• Throw- HomeGoods
• Night Stand- Target
• Rug- Amazon
• Curtains-HomeGoods
• Seagrass Tray- Target

The post Moody Board and Batten Guest Room appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

If you aren’t a stranger around here, you are probably already up to speed on the recent office renovations. But if you are new here, might I suggest checking out phase one of this room makeover.

Brief Recap: I had been planning on an office makeover for some time. However plans changed. I was getting two new office mates! (My 11 and 9 year old would be joining me at home for school.) With the new developments I found myself in need of plenty of functional yet beautiful storage. I wanted to maximize every square inch of the office and thus this project was dreamed up, enjoy!

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Clamp
• Tape Measure
• Table Saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Hardware Jig
• Paint Roller/Brush/Sprayer
• Sanding Sponge

Materials Used:

• (x2) Pantry Cabinets
• (x6) Brass Hardware
• (x1) 3/4″ Plywood
• (x2) 1×2″ Common Board
• (x1) 1×6″ Common Board
• Nickel Gap Boards
• 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• Any additional trim boards to math existing molding and baseboards.
• Paint or stain of choice. (Pictured: Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Secure Cabinets Together

Again,  if you have been following the office makeover you are probably aware that I have been using pre-made cabinets. As I was brainstorming additional office storage I found myself perusing pre-made cabinet options and found a winner!  I found pantry cabinets in-stock at my local Home Depot! #winning  

First things first.  Unbox the cabinets  intended to create a built-in.  The cabinets will need to be secured together so that they are essentially one unit.   In order two align them properly, I used clamps to hold the two cabinets together while I secured them together.

  I recommend securing the two units together on the interior sides of the cabinets.  I  secured them at  8 different points,  using a  1 1/4″  wood screw. 

 After  the two units are essentially one it will need to be leveled and secured to the wall. Most homes are level,  mine is not. Ha, I needed to use several shims to make my cabinet level. Once the unit is level it can be secured to the wall. (I will  hide the gap when adding trim.) 

Mark stud placement and drive a 3″ screw through the interior back of your cabinet and into the stud behind it.  Repeat this step a minimum of 4 times per unit. 

Change Door Orientation

 Most  pre-made cabinets will  have doors that swing out in the same direction. I wanted my cabinet doors to both swing out as if it were an armoire.  In order to achieve this look,  I needed to change the orientation of one of the doors.  SOME cabinet companies anticipate this and add pre-drilled holes to accommodate a quick switch. 

Others do not, in which case you will need to transfer the measurements to the blank side and reinstall the hinges.  I did this for both top and bottom swing out doors. 

Build Upper Unit Carcass

Now we are to the fun part, building! Before you dismiss this project because of its perceived skill level, take a beat and hear me out. It’s just a box you guys! Just a box. In order to get the correct sizing you just need to follow some formulas.

WIDTH – Width of the installed cabinet – 1 1/2″= “Upper Interior Width”

DEPTH- Depth of installed cabinet – 3/4″ – 1/2″ = “Upper Side Depth

HEIGHT– This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Mine are 10′ ceilings. Measure from the top of the already installed cabinets, to the ceiling, then subtract 1.5″. This will be the height dimension.

Upper Unit Sides (x2) = height x width

Upper Unit Top and Bottom (x2) = width x depth (If additional shelves are desired cut any additional boards to the same above dimension.)

Secure the upper interior boards to both side boards using pocket holes and pocket hole screws. The top interior board will sit 4″ from the top of the side boards. This will be hidden by a trim piece. If you prefer to just have a free standing unit without trim, then disregard the 4″ drop and install flush with the ends of the side boards.

Shelves

SHELVES*- If a shelf is desired it can be added now. My preferred method is to use a pocket hole jig and drill pocket holes along the long front edge and both ends. (If the shelf is above eye level, I use pocket holes on the top of the board, if it is below eye level I drill pocket holes on the bottom of the board.) In this case I drilled pocket holes on the top of the shelf board and then secured a 1×2″ common board cut to the same length. This will reinforce the shelf and prevent from sagging. Using the pocket holes drilled on both ends secure to the interior of the cabinet carcass. The placement is personal preference. ( You can always make this and adjustable shelf if preferred.)

Construct Face Frame

After the box is assembled, the carcass will need a face frame. The face frame is comprised of 1×2″ and 1×6″ common boards. These four boards can either be attached directly to the cabinet using wood glue and a finish nailer, or you can use a pocket hole jig and secure them together on the back of both ends of the “rails”. ( See below image as a reference.)

Rail Length = Width of the base cabinet – 3″

Stile Height = This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Use the same measurement that was used when cutting the “Upper Cabinet Sides”

Cabinet Back

In order to create cohesion in my office I opted to back my open style cabinet with shiplap/ nickel gap boards. This is not necessary and a simple MDF board will do. In either situation it is a simple case of measuring the height and width of the back of your cabinet and cutting the boards to fit. I installed mine using wood glue and an 1.5″ 18. gauge nail .

Paint (Can be painted once complete.)

Painting method and order are all a matter of personal preference. I opted to spray the cabinet doors and the custom made upper unit in my shop, and painted the pantry cabinets in place. (Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Install Upper Unit

I enlisted the help of my husband to set the upper unit. It was pretty beefy with the 3/4″ ship lap backing! Assuming all dimensions were carefully taken it should fit like a glove! Once properly placed drive 1 1/4″ screws though the top interior of the pantry cabinets and into the base of the upper cabinet (or vise versa). The goal is make sure the upper unit if solidly secured to the base cabinet.

Add Hardware

Hardware is always optional, but when it comes to creating a truly custom look I think they are a must! My cabinets did not have any predrilled holes so I used the dimensions based on the hardware I selected.

When drilling hardware holes I suggest using a jig. I recently started using this one and I love it!

Add Trim Work

In my opinion, trim work is the element that turns a piece of free-standing furniture into a built-in. It just gives it this sophisticated look and I dig it! In this case

I reinstalled my baseboards and installed shoe molding around the base perimeter of my armoire. If you have any questions about installing baseboards I have a full tutorial here. 

On the top of the unit I used the same crown moulding I had through out the room. The only struggle I had was figuring out want color to paint the moulding! Throughout the room the crown moulding and the baseboards are all pure white. Well, my built-ins are Sherwin Williams “Repose Gray”, I wasn’t sure what color the trim should be. After counseling with some friends it was decided it definitely needed to match the built in unit. So, my crown moulding actually changes colors in the corners! Rest assured, it looks great and I haven’t given it a second thought since. It looks bomb.

Well, what do we think? It’s amazing isn’t it? Beautiful, functional, and fairly easy. The ultimate DIY trifecta.

But wait there is more,  I did mention it was functional right?  I made sure to add some extra charging stations so that I could have my electronics!

If you know me, you know I needed to add as much function as absolutely possible. I even added some power strips to the drawer that would serve as my kids electronics charging station. Now we always know where they are, and they go in the drawer when not in use. It is awesome!

Then of course there is the obvious storage. It holds so much stuff! Overall I call this build a complete success.

Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Convert a Cabinet Into a Built-In Armoire appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

  I recently gave my home office a makeover.  Scratch that.  I recently  converted my office into a streamlined home office/ homeschool room.  

 The biggest hurdle when designing my office was incorporating  enough desks to accommodate my kiddos and myself.   I really wanted a built-in unit but that dream seemed unattainable. Or was it ?   I dreamed up a crazy idea, an idea so crazy it JUST MIGHT WORK?! Spoiler alert:  It TOTALLY worked and I am going to show you how. 

Remove Hardware

  The first thing that was necessary when modifying the cabinet was removing the drawer and it’s accompanying hardware.  This can be  typically be accomplished using a phillips bit screwdriver/drill. 

Modifying Cabinet Dimensions (opt.)

 Now,  if you are a little OCD and want to take this project one step further then read on.  If you are perfectly happy with  height and depth of your cabinets go ahead and skip to the next step.

Adjust Depth

 First,  determine the desired depth of your cabinet and then you measure and mark your cabinet. I  set up a board that would serve as a guide to run my circular saw along.  (Remember, do not place your guide on the line you need to cut,  you need to consider the distance from  the edge of your saw plate to the saw blade itself.) 

 Using the guide and the marked line cut the first side of your cabinet using a circular saw.  (Always wear proper safety gear!)  Repeat this step on both side of your cabinet. 

Once both sides are cut,  you can flip the cabinet upside down in preparation to cut the bottom.  This is where it gets a little tricky.   The sides of the base block the path of the circular saw, so I needed to get a little creative. I had to use a smaller circular saw, but a jigsaw or something similar would work well too. 

 Using one one of the above mentioned tools will require cutting a straight line by hand.  I would highly recommend drawing a straight line to use as a guide.   Even if the line is a little crooked,  it will be fine, this will be completely hidden. 

Add Supports

Once all sides of the cabinet are cut down supports are necessary.    I used a 1×3 board cut to the exact interior dimension and then drilled pocket holes on both ends to secure them. 

 I added a support on the very top ledge of my cabinet and also  one at the base. I did leave the back of the cabinet open.  This is totally personal preference.  You can add paneling to the back if you prefer,  just take the added depth into account when you are creating countertops and installing to the wall etc. 

Adjust Height

 If  you would also like to alter the height of your cabinet,  that is an option.  Again, not necessary, but an option.   If you opt to do this,  just use the same method used to cut the sides of the cabinet.  When I cut mine down I only removed 1.5″.  I still wanted there to be a toe kick area, but the 1.5″  made a huge difference when it can to the height of the pull-out desk drawers for my kids. 

Build Drawer Box

  In order to create a pull out desk,  I needed to create a sturdy  drawer.    Never made a drawer ?  No worries, it is simple!

Finding Drawer Box Dimensions

How to find the dimensions for your drawer:

• Drawer Base Width= Opening drawer dimensions  –  1″(drawer glides) –  1  1/2″ (1×4″ box supports) 
• Drawer Base Depth = Cabinet Depth Dimension – 1″( back clearance) – 3/4″ (back 1×4″ box support)-  1 3/4″(front hinge clearance) 
• Side Box Supports=  “Drawer Base Depth” dimension +  3/4″ (back 1×4 box support) 
• Back Box Support =  “Drawer Base  Width” dimension 

After  all the necessary boards are cut, it’s time to assemble.   Using a pocket hole jig  drill pocket  holes  around the perimeter of the base. (Excluding the front ledge.)  Also drill pocket holes on both ends of the “back box support” board as well.

 Using  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws secure the “back box support” to the back of the base.  Follow-up  by securing the “side box supports”  to  both sides.  Again securing with  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. 

 Look at that!  You made a box, that wasn’t so hard now was it ?  Next  thing we need to do is make it mobile!  Let’s add some drawer glides. 

Install Drawer Front

  First mark the desired location for the hinge,  taking into consideration the drawer glides that will be installed.  Once marked,  pre-drill in the allocated spots, then use the screws  that came with the hinges to install the first side of the hinge.  Repeat t his process for both hinges that will be attached the cabinet base.  (See below image as a reference.) 

 After the hinges are secured to the cabinet base I needed to attach the to my  drawer front.  

Something to consider: Keep in mind that the drawer will need to clear the doors that sit directly below it.  Test the spacing before installing the  drawer face. 

When  attaching the drawer front I found it easiest to clamp the drawer face directly to the front of the cabinet and then mark, pre-drill, and  then fasten with a  screw.  It ensured that I would have perfect placement!  Worked like a charm. 

Install Glides

Mark Glide Placement

   Before beginning the install process,  place your drawer box in the cabinet opening and mark out a  logical location fort eh glides to be installed.  ( If  the drawer glides are installed too high or too low there is a chance your box will not fit into the opening and will be stopped by the cabinet frame.) 

Something to consider:  When selecting your glides take into account the amount of weight they can hold and their length.  As  you saw earlier I shortened my cabinet and there fore shortened  my drawer.   Select a drawer glide based on the depth of your drawer box.  ( Mine is an 18″ deep drawer box, so I selected an 18″ drawer glide. 

Attach Glide to box

When installing drawer glides. I begin by removing the drawer glide rail and secure it to the box first.    This is a fairly simple process.  Place the front of the glide so that is flush with the box.  Then using a spacer screw with glide rail in place using the screws provided with your glides.  (See below image for clarification.) 

Install Glide to Cabinet

   Alright half-way  through  the tricky part.  See that’s not so bad ?   Let’s wrap this puppy up.  All we need to do now is install the second half of the glide.   The larger piece of the glide needs to be secured to the cabinet base.  

After a few learning experiences I finally have drawer glide install down to a science and this is my favorite way to install a drawer box.  

1.)  Cut and Add Spacers-   The spacers will need to be tall enough that  your  drawer box will not hit the hinges when the drawer is pulled out on the drawer glides,  but also short enough that the drawer box doesn’t hit the top of the opening. I cut mine approximately 1″ thick and 20 long. 

Place the guides under both sides of the drawer box. 

2.) After the spacers are resting on the front drawer support (under the drawer box)  clamp or  secure  the spacer to the cabinet so that the spacer (and thereby) the box are sitting perfectly level.  Repeat this process for both spacers on either side of the drawer. 

3.) After the spacer is securely attached it is time to install the drawer glide. ( As of right now the box is resting on top of the spacers with the glides already attached to the box.)  Before we can install the glide we need to make sure the front hinged drawer has enough space to close. (The hinges  I used required 1 1/4″ from the front ledge in order to close properly.)  

Once certain of  location mark  where the back of your glide should be. Use this same measurement and mark it on the other side as well.  Once marked, slowly slide the box forward so that the glide is extending. As the box and glide extend it should holes allocated for  screws. 

4.)  When the holes are visible it is time to start screwing the glide to the  cabinet interior. (Make sure the back of your glide is still  at your pre-marked measurement.   Once you have double checked go ahead and put in screws in the available hole cut outs.  Repeat this same process on both sides of the box. 

5.)   Hard part is over! Gently push the drawer forward again. ( It is still resting on the spacers,  but the glides should not be shifting because of the first set of screws that are installed.)   As you push the drawer forward it will expose more hole cut outs,  proceed to screw in the provided screws. 

6.) Repeat  step (5) until  the glides are completely extended. (The box should be completely  pulled out at this point.) 

7.) After all the screws are in, unclamp  the spacers and pull out from under the drawer. 

8.) You did it!  It should be a perfectly level install. 

 You did,  pat yourself on the back.  You converted a drawer into a desk!  If you are interested in how I created the rest of my built in unit or the countertops make sure you check out these posts.

The post How to: Convert a Drawer into Desk appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Based on my current Instagram feed and auto-populated Pinterest  pins, I am not the only one who has functional office space on the brain!  I had been tossing around the idea of homeschooling my kids for the past few years,  then 2020 happened. It was the tiny nudge I needed to make the dive.   I still don’t know if this will be our long term plan, but it is certainly our current one. 

While I have dreamed about building my dream office for years, those plans were rerouted and put on the fast track.  I was about to enter  the  chaotic new school year and I needed organization and I needed it fast!  I was wanting built-ins but trying to accommodate  desks for the kids and it was proving to be a problem. UNTIL  I had brilliant ideas of how to have my cake and eat it too! This idea would allow me to have my beautiful dream office and still give my kids  each the designated workspace they needed!

Here is the clincher, I was nearly positive I could use pre-assembled cabinets to knock out this project even quicker, WINNING!

Gather Supplies

First thing I needed was cabinets! If you have ever been in a kitchen then you know the average size of a base cabinet. They are fairly large and getting them from the back of the store to the front and into your vehicle is a workout! I just ordered ahead and had mine picked up curbside! Wait, did you know you could do that !? You better believe it!

When I arrived at my local Home Depot I had my cabinets ready and waiting for me.

Modify Cabinets *OPTIONAL*

 The  biggest issue I had with using preassembled cabinets was the dimensions.  I like to make everything custom and the cabinets were are little deeper and taller than I would have preferred.  I was just going to have to deal with it… or did I ? 

  My brain started racing and I had an idea. An idea that required me to do some tweaking to the cabinet, so why not  modify the size of the cabinet as well?!

 If  you would like to read more about how  I modified the lower cabinet you can get all the details here. (This is a COMPLETELY optional step! You can easily  re-create this look with standard size cabinets.) 

Countertops

Something to consider before moving forward with  your built-ins is countertops. In the past I have used 3/4″ plywood as counters for my workspaces and have loved them. You can see them here:

• Craft Room
• WorkShop Cabinets
• X-Carve Station 
• Painting Work Station 
• Shop Assembly Table 

While there are several ways to create plywood counters I opted to do a stacked edge and then iron on edge banding to create a seamless look.   You can get the full  countertop tutorial here. 

I know I have said it before and I will say it again. There are always ways to accommodate different skill levels. If you are a little afraid to use a table saw and would prefer to just purchase counter tops, that is an option.

I actually checked out The Home Depot, they have a ton of in-store options, but if they don’t have exactly what you are looking for in-store, I am certain you can find it online. Not only can you find exactly what you are looking for, you can also rely on fast and free shipping on over one million items! #winning

Build Shelves / Upper Supports

Now that I had my upper and lower cabinets home, I needed to create a unified large unit that felt like a custom built-in. I needed to connect the dots! The first step would be forging a connection between both base units and their corresponding upper units.

I had an idea. I would create a shelf that would not only unify the upper and lower cabinets but it would also serve as shelves and a platform to support my upper cabinets! Win.

While this is a simple build I understand that sometimes using a new tool can be an overwhelming and daunting task. By virtue of the fact that you are here, means you are in in the right place. There are a ton of great resources online to help you learn new skills. As a safe bet I love to direct people to The Home Depot Guides . I know with full confidence that I am sending you to a credible source written by professionals for beginners.

The cabinet units are a simple build and would actually be a great beginner project. I designed this project hoping that it would be feasible for a novice learner but also present a more skilled builder options to create one-of-a kind pieces.

Things to consider:

Height and Width- The size of these shelves will vary depending on the height of your ceiling and your cabinet selections. For a size reference I have 10′ ceilings , so I designed my connecting shelf unit to be 27″ tall. I used 30″ wide cabinets, so I built my shelves to be the exact width and depth as my upper cabinets.

(Cabinets come in MANY different dimensions, which is yet another reason that this project could work for any size or space.)

Backing – I knew I wanted to use shiplap boards behind my open shelving areas. Before building I needed to take into account the 1/2″ thickness of my shiplap boards when I was building my units.

Build Upper Unit

The two towers that would frame in my desk were looking beautiful, now it was time to connect the unit together! As I said before I wanted this to have a built-in feel. In order to create this look I needed the unit to come within a few inches of the ceiling so that I could add ceiling molding and give it a true built-in feel.

I decided to make one very long unit to span the distance between the two towers. For size reference my upper unit is 25″ tall and 104″ long. It is not a small unit, but like I said, the build is a simple one and can be altered to fit any space.

Things to consider when building:

Backing: I needed to take into account the depth of my backer boards (in my case shiplap boards) when designing/building. One option would be to attach all the units directly to the wall and then paint the wall to create a unified feel. It would eliminate the need to accommodate a backing board and save some money.

Length: My unit is pretty big! I didn’t want to compromise the length of my desk. I wanted to maximize as much of the office wall as I could. This required the use of longer than standard 96″ boards being ripped and cut. (You could technically splice, fill and sand two boards together.)

If you are a little skittish about building a big unit, this is totally optional for this built in desk. In reality all you need is the two base cabinets and a desk to span the distance between them, but I have always been “extra” and I like it. We are all in different phases of life, do what works for you!

Painting

Before I brought my units inside I opted to paint them in my shop. Regardless if you are using a sprayer or rolling paint on here are my tried and true steps for painting cabinets:

• Lightly Sand (Even with brand new cabinets.)
• Roll or Spray first coat of primer OR  paint and primer. 
• Allow to dry. 
• Lightly sand with a fine grit sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another coat of paint.
• Allow Dry. 
• Lightly sand with a finish sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another  coat of paint. 

Repeat this process until you have full coverage.  Once full coverage is achieved stop!  Do not lightly sand the topcoat.  This process has always given me a beautiful smooth finish. 

 Prime, and paint all units and allow ample time for them to dry before beginning install.  If you would prefer paint in place (which  I would if I were rolling) then skip this step for now and revisit after the units are installed.

Install

Here it starts to get tricky and is a reason that I can’t give an in-depth tutorial when it comes to built-ins. All spaces are tricky and have odd quirks. For instance, our floor slopes slightly and one of our walls bows. Something to consider as you proceed. While there may be a few hiccups you need to work around in your home the basics order remains the same.

Something to consider: If you are planning on trimming out the unit to look like a built-in you will need to remove the existing base boards and potentially crown molding. (Depending on the height of your unit.)

Bring in the base cabinet with countertop installed. ( I secured my countertop from underneath, driving 1 1/4″ through cabinet supports and into the countertop.)

 Stack the previously assembled shelf on top of the countertop. I designed mine to be centered on my countertop. I then used pocket holes to secure the shelf to the countertop.    This is where you will see how close your measurements were!   The goal is to have the joints meet flush and then fill with wood filler. If  you are slightly off, no big deal.   It’s easy enough to add a small piece of scribe molding to hide any discrepancies.  

Repeat the same process for both towers.  It is at this point that I was ecstatic with the look but also… “WHOA this thing is ginormous!”. 

Next,  the connecting shelf needs to be set in place.  My husband had to help me put this behemoth in place.  Again, I paid close attention to the seams  showing at the visible end of the cabinet. 

Install Nickel Gap Board

Once the upper shelf unit is secured I started to dial in all my dimensions. I measure the distance between my two upper cabinets and then cut a 1×6″. board using the those measurements. I then installed the board at the base of the unit connecting my two lower cabinets. This will stabilize the entire unit and ensure that it is square but will also give me a board to attach my shiplap/nickel gap boards to!

     A nickel gap/shiplap board is not at all necessary for  built-ins.  In actuality it requires a little extra planning (Take into consideration the depth of the board when building the units, and it is an additional cost. But the heart wants what the heart wants.) I  had a ridiculous desire to have my boards centered in the unit. So I made my life far more complicated than it needed to be and started in the center.   I attached my nickel gap boards directly to the back of the unit using 2″ finish nails and an 18 g nail gun. 

Secure Unit to Wall

This is step is not required but suggested. Once the backing is attached I secured it to the wall. I found that the best connection points was inside the upper and lower cabinets. Before pushing the entire unit flush to the wall I took note of the stud placement so that I could use those dimensions. Using a 3″ screw I anchored the massive unit to the wall. Again, not necessary but suggested. I didn’t want to run the risk of it toppling should it be used as a jungle gym, but also I knew I would want to trim in the unit to match the existing floor and ceiling trim molding.

Install Desk

Last thing I needed to add to this built-in desk, was a desk! Depending on your preferred height install supports on both base cabinets.  The desk will span between these two supports.  

Once supports are installed place the desktop on top of the supports. Once certain of a proper fit apply an adhesive where the bottom of the desk board and the side supports meet. Then using a 1 1/4″ screw attach the 1×3 back desk support to either the wall or in my case the ship lap boards.

Finishing Touches

While my local Home Depot has a great selection of lighting, I had a very specific idea in mind when it came to the finishing touches for the space. I wanted a light fixture that was simple, and elegant. I wanted it to add to the look of the space while not being a distraction. Thus the reason I opted to remove the existing one. It was AWESOME and such a statement piece, but it felt distracting.

* Do you want to swap out a light fixture but don’t know how? Remember those Home Depot guides I mentioned earlier? They have you covered: “How to install a light fixture.” I am telling you guys, they have it all!

  It’s amazing how the little details can make a huge difference to a space. I feel that throwing in a few books and the new light fixture warm the whole office up! 

Without further ado, I give you my completely transformed office using builder grade cabinets! 

Would you ever look in the space and feel like someone just tossed some kitchen cabinets in the room?  Nope!   Using premade cabinets for this project allowed me to knock out this project in a fraction of the time and would be a project that could easily be tailored to any space or skill level.

 Thanks so much for following along with the office makeover, and stay tuned I just might have some more plans up my sleeve.  

Take Luck, 

Corey 

Sources:

• Nickel Gap Board : The Home Depot
• Upper Cabinet: The Home Depot 
• Lower Cabinets : The Home Depot 
•  Liberty Bronze Drawer Pulls :The Home Depot 
• Old- Cage Light Fixture: The Home Depot –Home Decorators Collection 
• New- Drum Light Fixture : The Home Depot 
• Wall Color-  Pure White Behr 
• Cabinet Color – Repose Gray 150% 
• Rolling Chairs- Facebook Marketplace  ( You can get something similar here.) 

The post Create a built-in Office Using Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Is this not the most beautiful accent wall you have ever seen ? Would you believe that it is made out of faux stone panels and I knocked it out in one day!?

I am not exaggerating when I say that anyone can do this! This is a very entry level DIY that looks so realistic it is insane. Another bonus? It requires very few tools and the panels are very easy to work with!

Prepping Panels

I think the trickiest part putting up the first row. I wanted the rock ledge to meet fleshly with my baseboards. The edge of these panels follows the outline of the stones. When cutting the straight edge make sure you cut all of your first row with the same dimension. They are designed to be butted up to each other and create a seamless look.

The cutting process is very simply. I map out my dimensions and used a sharpie to draw them onto the panel. Using a straight edge and a utility knife knife I cut out the desired dimensions. It usually only took me one pass with my utility blade, but if you encounter a stubborn segment, simply bend and snap along the scored line.

Adhering Panels

When applying the tiles, you are going to want to cut and then apply the panels one at a time. When doing this project I found that using DAP caulk work famously. Another option would be using a product like DAP DYNAGRIP. I have loved using this product for heavy duty projects like this SHIPLAP project. DYNAGRIP has a nearly instant hold that is adjustable.

These panels are very lightweight so I opted for a caulk that would be a strong hold but still feasibly removable should I ever opt to remove the stone.

Using a caulk gun apply DAP caulk to the back of the panels. I used the raised grout lines as a guide for applying the caulk. By doing this it ensured even adhesion without wasting caulk.

Once a the ALEX Caulk or DYNAGRIP adhesive is applied the panel can be applied to the wall. The panel will very easily stay put! If you are using DYNAGRIP this thing won’t be going anywhere and will be adjustable but will take some pressure to move it. Using caulk it will stay put but can easily be moved around until the caulk begins to set.

Due to the nature of this project I decided to tack the panel in place in one or two places on the panel. While the caulk or DYNAGRIP will easily hold the panels on the wall, I didn’t want them to shift whatsoever when I was butting the next panel up to the joint.

Like I said, work with one panel at a time. Cut to the desired locations, apply caulk or DYNAGRIP, tack in place, then repeat with the next panel.

Applying “Grout” (Spackle)

Once the panels are installed it is time to give these faux stones some character! If you recall forever ago, I created a I German smear brick wall using faux brick panels. It has held up amazingly and is a beautiful feature in our home. When I found these panels I knew exactly what to do with them, I would take a note out of my old playbook and use ALEX PLUS Spackle to achieve a faux over-grouted look.

Something to consider, spackle in and of itself is not intended to be used as a grout. I am aware. However,I have never actually seen anyone ever try to over-grout plastic wall panels . I am in unchartered territory. However, this is what I DO KNOW. I have used DAP ALEX PLUS spackle for many projects and have been amazed with it.

It has excellent adhesion, does not sink or shrink, and is extremely durable. THIS IS EXACTLY the attributes I needed for this project. I needed a product that would adhere to the surface of the panel and would not shrink as it dried. (In this case, if the product were to shrink it would pull itself away from the panel and may not stick the way I needed it to.) It also is extremely durable. These panels are made of a flimsy plastic. If you press on them, they do give a little. I needed a product that would be durable and not crack and chip if the panel was flexed.

While spackle is not specifically made for this application, it was a no brainer that I trusted ALEX PLUS to be my absolute best bet… and I was right! After quite a few flex, and scratch tests this product is holding up like a charm.

When I first started this project I was totally winging it, by the 10th panel I had my technique down to a science. The easiest way to apply the spackle was to fill a grout bag with ALEX PLUS spacke. I suggest working in sections no bigger than 2’x2′. Pipe a liberal amount of the “grout” into the joint lines between the stones.

Once a section of the stone had the spackle piped into the joints, I troweled over the spackle using a small putty knife. I used the putty knife to push the spackle completely into he joints while also spreading the excess spackle over the surrounding stones. Part of the appeal of an over-grouted stone is that is fairly low contrast and the “grout” unifies to the stones and creates a softer feel. I tried to mimic this look using the spackle.

After using a putty knife to spread out the spackle, I wanted to create some depth to the crevices.. BY definition sparkle is suppose to fill holes and create a smooth surface, so I needed to run my finger along the joints in order to create a very gentle curve to the grout line.

After the cracks are smoothed out, we are ready for the finishing touch! Using a damp terry cloth rag, I gently dabbed along the spackle to create a uniform texture. I also dabbed some of the excess spackle onto the surrounding stone. It gave it a very natural look that helped blend the contrast between the different color stones.

Just look at that finish! Can you believe that this was just a flimsy plastic panel? With just a little bit of elbow grease and creativity they now look like an old-world/tuscan villa!? However you want to catergorize this look, I just know that it is beautiful and it gave our small powder room the “wow factor”! Mission complete.

Thanks so much for following along, and a big shout out to sponsors like DAP that allow me to keep creating content so that I can share it with great folks like you!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Faux Stone Wall appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Alright, who here has an outdated R.V. or Toy hauler that needs a makeover? Well, you are in the right place. Let’s dive right in, shall we?

Phase 1: Gutting the R.V.

Oh how I wish I could transport you into this image. Let me paint you a picture. Imagine you have 3 full grown dogs and the concept of brushing or cutting their hair is a foreign concept. Then one day you decide to sell said kennel R.V. and you realize the smell might be a deterrent. What to do? OBVIOUSLY you buy three economy size boxes of moth balls and hide them in all the nooks, crannies and vent ducts in order to mask the smell.

Phase 2: Prepping

Is that picture coming in clear? Well, go ahead and add at least 3 more dogs possibly a cat, Florida heat and you get a pretty good sense of the smell. All of this to say, while the before images aren’t BAD, this makeover was necessary despite the appearance of its condition.

Phase 2: Priming

Everything needed to go. Anything that could not receive a fresh coat of odor blocking paint was removed. ( If you are interested in the painting process you can get all the details for spraying here, and hand rolling here.) But for the sake of showing the makeover progression let me give you a general overview. I gutted this sucker! This time around I decided to use the “Fuji, Semi-Pro Sprayer” in order to paint. Before starting I removed EVERYTHING and taped EVERYTHING off using Frogtape.

Phase 3: Painting

As I said, I have all the details for my paint process (including the best primer EVER) available here. It is amazing the difference that simply priming the walls made. Everything looked so much bigger and brighter!

Once all the walls were primed and painted, it looked like it was a brand new Toy Hauler that was still in the assembly process. The walls looked, so modern and brand-spankin’ new.

While the original linoleum was in fairly good condition there was a little snag.  There was carpet in about 70% of the camper that needed to be removed.   I knew that matching the linoleum exactly would be nearly impossible so instead I replaced the flooring throughout using NuCore cork back flooring in the color “Morel”. 

Phase 4: Flooring

Phase 5: Replacing Furniture

The next hurdle in the living area was creating seating. The original sofa was beyond repair and would need to be completely replaced. I used the Ikea MORABO sofa in my last R.V. Makeover and loved it! The only snag in this situation is I needed a MUCH larger sofa. In this toy hauler, the dining area is actually in a back room/garage. Where as in the last camper I was working with a smaller space and trying to accommodate a dinette set. In this one I needed one very long sofa… and I had an idea.

“Why not just use TWO love seats and bolt them together?”, and that is just what I did! I purchased two love seats and removed the inside arms and bolted them together. It was so simple and it took all of 5 minutes to do.

After that I built a frame for them to sit on and small side tables to fill the space difference. (You can see all the details on this process, on my Instagram Stories here.)

Phase 6: Adding Practical Character

The last thing to complete the space was to add light sconces and curtains! The sconces are just standard light fixtures that I converted to R.V. standards by simply switching the light bulb! ( You can get the fixture here, and the light bulb here.) If you want any details about any of these project make sure you check out all of my Instagram Stories, where they are all saved to my highlights.

After the last R.V. makeover I have received a ton of requests for a curtain tutorial, so this time around I am happy to oblige! You can check out all the details here.

So here it is, the living area of the newly renovated toy hauler!

Let’s see that from another angle!

There you have it folks, the R.V./ Toy Hauler living area/sofa makeover! When we decided to tackle this Toy Hauler and sell our first camper I may have cried, but as this project is coming together I am so glad we did! This project is surpassing all my expectations and I am so excited to finish up the rest of this project! Check back soon for the dining room, bathroom, and master bedroom reveals!

Sources

• Frogtape
• Flooring- By-NuCore, Color- “Morel”
• Sofa- By Ikea, “MORABO” Loveseat (x2)
• Black and Leather Wall Sconce- Amazon
• 12 volt Light Bulbs- Amazon
• Wall Color- Sherwin Williams, “Repose Gray” lightened 50%
• Cabinet/Door Color- Sherwin Williams, ” Peppercorn”
• Flooring Cutter-
• Rug/Runner- T.J. Maxx
• Door Pulls- Square Matte Black Drawer pulls
• Sink Faucet- Matte Black Pull-down Faucet
• Throw Pillows- Last Season Target

If you are looking for more R.V. inspiration make sure you check out the rest of the Toy Hauler, and our first camper makeover. You can find all the links below.

• R.V. Makeover Painting with a roller
• R.V. Bathroom Makeover
• R.V. Sofa and Dinette Makeover
• R.V. Makeover Reveal
• R.V. Curtain Tutorial 
• Kitchen- Toy Hauler 
• Living Area- Toy Hauler (Coming Soon)
• Master Bedroom- Toy Hauler  (Coming Soon)
• Bathroom- Toy Hauler  (Coming Soon)
• Dining/Garage- Toy Hauler  (Coming Soon)

The post Toy Hauler/R.V. Makeover Sofa appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

This post does contain affiliate links * 

The very last rooms in our house to get any attention were the bathrooms. I wasn’t ready to take on a major overhaul and I knew that re-tiling would just entail a lot of dust and mess. I just was not emotionally prepared for that kind of commitment.  The more I thought about it, the more I realized, there is no reason I can’t just work with what I have!  (You can read all about the process picking this color palette and design process here.)  

Today I am going to show you some quick fixes that won’t break the bank!  It is by working with great products and partners like DAP that I can bring you these awesome makeovers! So let’s get started.

 I found this gem of a photo from the day we first toured the house. It was your basic builder grade bathroom. Which was fine for 4 years,  but let me show you what you can do in as little as a weekend!

Cabinet Update

 I  attacked this project the same way I did my previous bathroom. I removed the cabinet doors and prepped the cabinet for paint.  If you would like more information regarding painting cabinets, you can check out my post here. 

 I used the same color scheme that I did in the guest bathroom as well.   I literally moved from one bathroom to the next and it made the process go by so quickly!  I had everything out, and honestly if you are considering giving two bathrooms a makeover  I would knock them both out at once! 

Sink Replacement

  When it comes to “bang for your buck”  in a room makeover, paint is hands down your best option.   It just is. It is moderately priced and can change the entire look of a room. Bathrooms have a bad rep for being an $$$ makeover, but I think there is a happy medium.  I was determined to work with the existing countertops, tile, showers and toilets.  HOWEVER, I didn’t invest in a new sink.   A sink and new faucet is a simple change  that can completely update the entire look of a bathroom. 

Like I said I did not want to replace the existing countertops, so it was simply an issue of finding a sink that would cover the hole from the builder grade drop in sinks. 

 I am still learning the ropes when it comes to plumbing and  I did enlist the help of my husband to help walk me through the process.  I am not an authority on the field, but I will say there are plenty of pro’s out there with detailed tutorials.  

Sink affiliate link:

• Basin Porcelain Sink– Amazon 
• Brass Single Hole Faucet- Amazon (Not exact but close.)

One thing  I  do know well, and that is caulk and silicone.  In order to make this bathroom ready, we do need to water-proof the seam around the perimeter where the sink meets the countertop. 

When sealing an area that will be subject to water I would highly recommend a silicone based sealer as opposed to a latex.  Think of it like oil vs. latex paint.  Oil is a little more heavy duty, and it is also a little messier to clean up. 

So when using silicone I like to use a the DAP Pro-Caulk tool kit.  It came with all the tools  necessary t o get the job done, with out the sticky fingers

If you are  new to caulking here is a trick that will  help you in the process.  You can use this Frogtape trick.  You simply  use painters tape the same way you would if paining a wall,  you use tape to create a straight edge that will also protect the rest of the surface from the paint/silicone/caulk. It gives you some leniency in your application and creates a perfect line! 

After the caulk/silicone is applied use your preferred corner tool in the Caulking Tool Kit to achieve the perfect finish. Simply slide the corner along the applied bead of caulk to create a perfect uniform seam.  Immediately after smoothing out the silicone remove the painters tape. Failing to do so can result in the silicone curing to the tape. 

Upgrade Towel Bars

More than anything this bathroom makeover was just a series of covering up or repairing holes!  I already tackled the sink hole, now onto the partial hole created from little boys that shall not be named using the towel rack as a pull-up bar.  Fortunately, this was an easy fix. 

Just a few dollops of DYNAGRIP and we were back in business. 

 I just braced it up with some duct tape while it cured. 

Paint

While all my adhesives were curing I finished up painting all the walls. For the walls I used the same color as  the recently renovated guest bathroom. 

  This was actually a makeover that took me less than 24 hours to complete. Mind blowing right?  Like I said, most of it was just covering holes and paint. In order to get everything painted that quickly I enlisted my Fuji-Spray Semi-Pro sprayer, and when painting  the walls. FROGTAPE!  A good painters tape can cut your labor time considerably, and for some one that has orange peel knock-down walls, having a straight line is no small feat! 

Custom Towel Rack

Everything was coming along quickly, and I was actually in a time crunch… but I kept getting distracted by the other builder grade towel bar. The one in the shower didn’t bother me much.  It was a sensible option in the shower and would rarely be seen.

However, the one at eye-level was bugging me… so what did I do?  I created two new holes to cover! 

Remember how I said I was trying to complete this project in less than 24 hours?! Well you might think I am crazy for trying to create a custom towel rack as opposed to simply installing new hooks, but in reality this was a very quick fix opposed to patching the drywall and then adding hooks. 

So I ran to the shop and whipped together a towel bar that would add character, and cover the holes.  Win-Win! 

 I used a 1/2″ x 6″ pine board, and a 1/2″ x 1 1/4″ board to create the base for my towel rack. (  I personally wanted the profile to be low, so I ripped the 1 1/2″ board in half, so that it would only be 1/2″x 3/4″.) 

 I cut the 1/2″ board to the dimensions needed to cover my holes.  I then used DAP RapidFuse to glue the (smaller) ripped down board to both of the long edges of the board. 

When adding my border pieces I intentionally made them too long.  I did this so that I could simply shave off the end using a miter saw.  By doing this it eliminated the need for precise measurements. 

See perfectly flush! 

Lastly, I needed to add the end cap. You can measure the end and transfer the dimensions OR you can hold the trim piece in place, mark and then cut before gluing in place.  I timed it, and this whole process took less than 5 minutes! 

I slapped on some Early American stain by Minwax and set it in front of a fan to dry so that I could add poly, and hooks. 

I used 2 1/2″ screws to secure  the new towel rack to the wall.  Mark the locations of your studs and drive a screw through the new plate and into the stud behind it. (When at all possible I try to hide the placement of the screw behind the hooks.  I just install the hooks after I install the base plate.) 

Finishing Touches

After everything was painted and holes covered it was down to the finishing touches. If you are familiar with my guest bathroom makeover you know I went back and forth in regards to light fixture multiple times. Well,  I couldn’t use both of the lights in the other bathroom so I decided to use the leftover in the boys bathroom.  

• Two Tone Light Fixture– The Home Depot 

I also opted for the same mirrors used in the guest bathroom makeover as well. 

• Threshold French Country Mirror– Target 

 I just added a few last touches including an extra long shower curtain to give the room some height, added a rug runner to tie  my colors together, and a  “fishing basket” filled with olives to complete the space! 

So without further ado.   The kids 24 hour bathroom makeover!

Sources

Sources 

• Two Tone Light Fixture– The Home Depot 
• Threshold French Country Mirror– Target 
• Bar Drawer Pull- Home Depot 
• Vintage Olive Rug Runner– Amazon 
• Basin Porcelain Sink– Amazon 
• Extra Long Shower Curtain– Amazon 
• Brass Single-Hole Faucet- Amazon (Not exact but close.)
•  

Tools

• Fuji Spray Semi-Pro 2 – Amazon 
• DAP Caulk Pro Kit- Amazon 

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