I have been on the hunt for an affordable over the garage trellis option. After searching high and low I ultimately decided a budget friendly garage trellis did not exist. Instead of wasting more time searching I put on my thinking cap and designed and built my own affordable and aesthetically pleasing over the garage trellis!

Cut Boards for Corbels

Cut all necessary boards. (Determined by the desired number of corbel/brackets.) In my case I utilized a total of three brackets to span over a 2-car garage entry.  I used to “Large” corbels for the sides, and one “Small” corbel as a center support. 

Drill Holes

I found that it was very helpful using a speed square accurately mark the hole placement.  Word to the wise, mark the placement for all the corbels at the same time.  This will ensure that the holes will all line up when ultimately run the poles through the corbels. 

*Something to consider:  Before drilling determine the best size bit for your rods.  I used inexpensive IKEA curtain rods.  These rods worked best when I used a 7/8” paddle bit to dill out the hole. 

 I opted to use a drill press; this required a lot of resituating the depth of the drill as I drilled through the board.  While it required a little work, I highly recommend using a drill press. 

If using a drill press is not possible, a drill is still an option. It will just require a very level and steady hand. 

Another Option:  Drilling straight holes through the entirety of the 5.5” board is definitely the trickiest part of this build, there are a few ways to adjust the skill level.  Using a 2×4” board as opposed to a 2×6” board will make the step easier.  It will change the overall aesthetics, but it is an option. 

Cut Chamfered Edge on Corbel Board (Optional)

 I opted to add a chamfered edge to the ends of my boards.  This is not a necessary step, I simply wanted to jazz up my corbels. You can achieve this look. By either using a router or a table saw. 

In order to create a chamfer edge, I set my table saw blade on a 45 degree angle. In order to prevent cutting my rip fence I used clamps to secure a scrap board to the fence. 

Sand and Seal Corbel Boards

Before assembling I sanded all my boards and then treated them with and exterior stain and sealer. 

I used Olympic Elite exterior Stain and Sealant in the color “American Chesnut” I used this same stain when I created my “Vertical Planter” and I loved it so I used it again.

Construct Corbels

Using 4” exterior use screws secure the horizontal board to the (soon to be wall mounted) vertical board.  Reference the PDF Plan(s) to see the designated measurements. 

Secure Corbels to Wall

 In my case I will be attaching my trellis brackets to our stucco/block home.  Seeing as I will be drilling into concrete, I’ll need to take a few extra steps. In order to secure it into masonry I will need to use a sleeve anchor.  They are basically a mollie for concrete. I am using a 4” long by 1/2” diameter sleeve anchor. 

To use these anchors, I need to drill a ½” hole to accommodate the sleeve. I drilled a hole at both the top and the bottom center of my brackets. 

BEFORE YOU GET DRILL HAPPY…  take the time to check, double-check, and triple-check the placement of the corbels.  They will need to be perfectly level in order to accommodate the poles that will run through them.  I began by installing my center bracket first and then took careful measurements to figure out the positions of the side corbels. 

Once the holes were drilled in the bracket, I positioned the bracket in the desired location.  While holding the bracket in place I used the holes pre-drilled as a template for drilling holes in the masonry. 

Drilling holes in masonry is not as scary as it sounds, so long as you use the right tools. I suggest a ½” masonry bit and a “hammer drill”.  (Pictured below is a “Rotary Hammer Drill”.) 

 I drilled a hole approximately 3” deep into the masonry. This measurement considers the length of the anchor and the depth of the bracket board

After hole is drilled into masonry, insert the anchor sleeve through the wooden bracket and into the hole drilled in the masonry.  It should be a snug fit but should slide in without the use of tools. (If necessary. use a rubber mallet to tap into place.)

Once the anchor is in place use a wrench to tighten the anchor.  The anchor will expand as you tighten the bolt ensuring that the bracket is securely attached to the wall.   

    I knew I wanted the hardware to all be black, however I also knew that painting them before tightening the bolts would scratch up the paint job. Instead, I installed all the hardware and then cut a 1” hole in a scrap piece of paneling and used it to mask off the rest of the corbel and expose the unpainted nut. I used a satin black paint and primer and it worked like a charm. 

Almost done!  In order to complete the over the garage trellis we needed to connect our  corbels. To do this I used inexpensive  curtain rods from Ikea.  I found that they worked excellent and the fact that the could extend made it a great option.  

Another great option would be using ½” electrical conduit.  I liked using the curtain rods because they came with everything I needed to add finials (end caps),  but fear not I have a tutorial  how-to add finials to electrical conduit curtain rod here. 

 Once all the rods are in place, add finials (if desired) and add a vining variety plant. I opted for Bougainvillea that I purchased a few month prior to building my over the garage trellis.   In order to help it reach the new corbels I did build a small trellis that would bridge distance between the corbels and the ground. 

 That just about wraps up yet another homerun DIY project.  I had looked into over the garage trellis options for years and never found anything affordable.  I’d like to think that I knocked this inexpensive DIY out of the park. 

 Thanks for following along. 

Take Luck, 

Corey

Make it easy to organize your projects by Pinning it !

The post Add Character by Adding a Gorgeous DIY Garage Trellis appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Now that it’s done, I can’t believe it took me this long to take the plunge, the end reward is WELL worth the effort. 

While I am so excited to show the finally reveal allow me to take you through a brief review of the steps we took in order to achieve our dream bathroom. 

  Our master bathroom actually did have some great qualities.  I cannot complain about the square footage or the high ceilings.  They definitely were huge advantages when designing the space.  However, that is the extent of the “pros” (in my opinion).  While there was plenty of space, the layout was not great, and it actually left some square footage on the table when they installed a corner unit vanity.  The shower and tub were in good locations, but the wall dividing the shower created a very cave like feeling and closed off the room.  While the tub was “okay”, I have always dreamed of a freestanding tub. With the many changes I wanted to make we decided the best approach was to gut the bathroom and start from the ground up.  So that is just what we did! 

Demo

 I think as a general consensus taking the first step in a major project is always the hardest.  You pass that point of no return and you are committed.  That can be a seriously scary thing.  Whether your doubts are in your abilities or possibly in your tool supply… to that I say: “Where there is a will there is a way.”

There are plenty of resources out there to help supplement your “know-how”.  There are so many professional resources that walk you through each step! Home Depot actually has a ton of online “How-to-Guides” by the pro’s!  You can check out their library of resources here. 

But that brings us to the more tangible limitations…tools.  AGAIN, The Home Depot has got you covered! Obviously, The Home Depot is your one -stop-shop for all this tools, but what if you are aren’t ready to invest in some of the larger tools, or possibly don’t have the space to store larger tools?   The Home Depot has the answer.  Did you know that you can RENT tools in-store?

  You can check out all the amazing options here: The Home Depot Tool Rental

 If this picture of all those readily available tools doesn’t make your heart happy, then you might be denying your inner DIY loving heart.  Just saying. 

 The demo part of this process definitely required bringing in some scarcely used tools which would be a great opportunity to rent instead of buy.  Just a thought. 

Drywall Ceiling

After the demo was complete and we were down to ground zero, it was time to start rebuilding.  For us the most logical place to start was by repairing all the walls.  

We wanted to start with a fresh, blank canvas. So, we repaired and, in some cases, replaced the dry wall that was removed during the demo process.  It was at this point that we also added Durarock to the shower. 

It was amazing how much more opened the room felt once we had the dry wall replaced and skim coated all the surfaces to remove the texture.

At this point we actually. Deviated away from our original plan.  The original plan did not include a planked ceiling, but the heart wants what the heart wants. We postponed our timeline and tackled adding nickel gap board to the ceiling. 

It was a fairly quick project.  The majority of the time was actually allotted to installing the fir stripping that we attach to the rafters that we would then attach our nickel gap boards to (running perpendicularly). 

We used these Nickel Gap Shiplap Boardand I am very pleased with their quality, and they look beautiful with a paint finish. 

Shower and Floor Prep

In the past all of my tile jobs have been limited to backsplashes and floors.  It was always in a decorative capacity.  When it came to tiling for practicality it was a whole new beast. After watching many online tutorials we were able to figure out grading the shower pan and waterproofing the walls.

Once all the walls were prepped it was time to get the tile.  Again, if you are new to DIY something like selecting tile and calculating how much you will need can be overwhelming.  The Home Depot is here to help.  Did you know that they have project calculators?  The “Project Calculator” is an awesome little feature that allows you to plug in your space dimensions, the type and size of the material you are using (in this case tile) and the feature will calculate home much tile you will need for your specific project.  The project calculator is not limited to just tile,  it has options for calculating materials for a plethora of projects. 

After agonizing over my tile selections, I finally was able to select my colors. (There were seriously so many great options, I had a hard time narrowing it down!) 

Ultimately, I went with Bianco Dolomite or the shower wall tile, Bianco Dolomite Hexagon for the shower floor and FLOOR TILE.

  If you have been around awhile,  you are well aware that I very rarely  ever hire out  help especially if the project is in my wheelhouse.  Well  this time my sanity won out. We ended up hiring help with the tiling portion of this project. I pride myself in doing everything myself, but this is one decision I do not regret!  If you are looking for more information on tiling make sure you check out The Home Depot’s “How-To Tile a Shower”  for more information. 

Doors

Our home came with very basic builder grade doors, they weren’t bad but they weren’t great. I believe at this point in the project I was at the “If you give a mouse a cookie” phase. I had already gutted the entire bathroom and created my dream bathroom, why stop short? I went ALL in, and man am I glad I did. The doors actually became a focal point and carry the color up the wall. Oddly enough the doors are one of my favorite parts of the room.

I selected a simple Two Panel Door that was beautiful! (No fake wood grain on this beauty!) I also realized how much a door knob could add to the look of a door! I found these Schlage Aged Bronze Door Knob.

Install Storage

The bathroom was really coming together at this point, but I still had a few tricks up my sleeve.  While the bathroom was quite large it was desperately lacking storage space.  Luckily for me, the bathroom wall also shared a wall with our hall linen closet. So, I pulled a switcha–roo. I opened up the back side of the cabinet (that shared a wall with the bathroom) and closed off the original access (removing the door and adding drywall etc.)  

 By opening up this space to the bathroom instead of the hall it gave me room to add a linen closet and TONS of character. 

If you have been following along you KNOW I have a love for built ins. I recently built a  Custom Pantry that I created specifically to fit in a empty wall cavity.  Shortly before that I created a custom Built-In Storage Armoire using two pre-made pantry cabinets. Well for the bathroom linen closet I took a page out of both tutorials and combined both ideas.  I used several different pre-made cabinets to create one MEGA linen 

Linen Closet 

• Hampton Bay Pantry Cabinets
• Hampton Bay 12” Upper Cabinet
• Liberty Hardware 12” Pulls

Install Trim Work

 We are in the home stretch now! As much as I wanted to slap some paint on this sucker and call it good… I knew I wanted the classic elegance of wainscoting. 

 I don’t know about you but something as simple as trim work can totally elevate the space! 

 If you want to add trim to your space, you can check out either of these two tutorials. 

• Kitchen Island Makeover
• Guest Bedroom Accent Wall

I am always amazed at how much trim can add to any space.  Here are the materials I prefer to use when trimming a room. 

Trim Work Materials: 

• Nickel Gap Shiplap Board (Ceiling)
• 1”x 3” Finger Joint Board  (Door Casing) 
• 1”x 4” Finger Joint Board  (Vertical and Horizontal Wainscoting) 
• 1” x 6” Finger Joint Board (Baseboards)
• 1”x 8” Finger Joint Board (Interior Window Trim) 
• Hardboard Panel MDF (Back of Wainscoting) 
• 8’  Base Cap Molding  (Interior Wainscoting)
• Two Panel Door

Prep and Paint

 When it comes to painting, I am always torn on the painting method I want to take.   I am normally really anxious to get going, so rolling really calls to me.  However, I am always so much happier with the final product when I use a sprayer.  I feel like both methods take about the same amount of time; the difference is when spraying you spend the majority of that time prepping rather than painting. 

I wasn’t going to cut corners on this bathroom, so I rolled up my sleeves and pulled out the painter’s tape, painters’ plastic, and paper.  I needed to cover anything that would not be painted. 

Once everything was prepped, I got to work spraying.  When spraying I use the Fuji Spray Semi-Pro Sprayer. OR, if you aren’t ready to invest in a sprayer you can always rent one  from The Home Depot.

• Wall Color- Snowbound
• Trim/Wainscoting- Agreeable Gray 

Install Fixtures

Vanity Area

   This is the best part of the project, when you start to bring in all the major pieces and you start to really see the space come together.  When selecting a vanity, it was important to me to have a nice countertop and have plenty of storage space.   I went back and forth on quite a few different colored options but decided on something simple. If I ever want to change the look of the bathroom it is much easier to do if I have a blank canvas. Plus, the linen closet/armoire was going to be a nice warm wood tone, and I didn’t want to have to compete with it (color wise). 

 I selected the Home Decorators Collection Double Vanity and I love it. 

 I paired the vanity with a gorgeous 48” Glass Warehouse Brass Vanity Mirror/. If you have been around a little while you might recognize it from my Powder Bathroom Makeover. (I used the 36” version in the powder room.) I found that Delta faucets in their “Champagne” color collections paired best with my color palette. 

The finishing touch for this space was the Home Decorator’s Collection Mini Pendant.  They were the perfect size, they hung at the right height, and you couldn’t beat their price, however I needed something in brass and black.  No fear, this is a DIY blog, is it not? If you have never spray painted a light fixture, no worries I have got you covered.  Quite literally one of my very first blog posts covered this very topic! 

Vanity Area Products:

• Glass Warehouse Vanity Mirrors
• Home Decorators Double Vanity
• Delta Trisnic Widespread Mount
• Vanity Hardware (5 1/8” pulls)
• Vanity Hardware (Knobs)
• Vanity Light Fixture Pendant (I spray painted mine.)

Tub Area

Which brings us to the tub area.  Words do not quite describe how excited I was for this particular area.  I have never found soaking in a tub very relaxing, probably because I would sit and stare at my surroundings and think of all the potential the space had.  NOW the space has met its potential and I can sit and soak it in… in my freestanding tub with a brass faucet.  

 When selecting my tub it was more than just aesthetics I had to consider. There were logistics to be considered, namely the size!  My space allotted for the tub was not huge, so I needed to find a tub to fit those dimensions.  After looking at a ton of options I landed on the Vanity Art Bordeux Tub.   Naturally with an elegant looking freestanding tub, I needed to freestanding tub filler to match.  I found that the Jacuzzi Contento Tub Filler was the best bang for my buck and a very close match to the tone of brass I had throughout the rest of the bathroom.

 I finished off the area with the Progress Lighting Linen Shade Chandelier.  If it looks familiar, that’s probably because it is! I loved this fixture so much in my Office Makeover that I decided to use it in the bathroom as well. 

Tub Area Products: 

•  Freestanding Tub
• Jacuzzi Freestanding Tub Filler
• Linen Shade 6-Light Fixture

Shower Area

Ready to wrap this project up? ME TOO!  The last area I needed to tackle was the shower.  Long before we ever started the bathroom makeover, we dreamed of having two shower heads in a bigger shower.  Well, try as we might we just couldn’t configure any way to make it work. We exhausted a lot of options but ultimately decided it wasn’t in the cards. 

But wait, I might not have been able to swing two full size shower heads, but a handheld option might be just the ticket! PLUS, I am really digging the look of the sliding bar in the shower, so everything works out. I have two shower heads per se, and it looks like a million bucks. 

 I used the Delta Stryke Shower Head and Valve(s) and the Delta Slide Bar Hand Shower. 

As I was doing my research for glass shower enclosures, I realized I had to have my class custom fit. After doing a little inquiring I found that some Home Depot locations do work with specialist that can custom cut glass.  Check with your local Home Depot to see if that location offers those services. 

Shower Area Products: 

• Delta Sliding Bar w/ Handheld Sprayer
• Delta Elbow for Handheld Sprayer 

In Review

Are you ready to see how this whole space came together?

Drumroll please…I give you my Master Bathroom Makeover!

I will admit that a bathroom remodel is not for the faint of heart, but IT IS doable!  I personally have put off this project for years because of the intimidation factor. I didn’t exactly know what I was doing. However, I did not let that stop me from trying!

 I looked to other colleagues for advice, scrolled through all the professional tutorials The Home Depotwebsite had to offer, and called in reinforcements when I needed it. Sometimes extra help comes in the forms of professionals and sometimes it just means more tools than what you have access too.  If that is one of your hurdles, cross it off of your excuse list.  The Home Depot is a great resource for tool rental, professional tutorials, AND they can even help with your custom projects with help of their material calculators. 

No matter the skillset or the toolbox you can improve your home if you have will to make it happen! 

Sources: 

Tub Area Products:

•  Freestanding Tub
• Jacuzzi Freestanding Tub Filler
• Linen Shade 6-Light Fixture

Vanity Area Products:

• Glass Warehouse Vanity Mirrors
• Home Decorators Double Vanity
• Delta Trisnic Widespread Mount
• Vanity Hardware (5 1/8” pulls)
• Vanity Hardware (Knobs)
• Vanity Light Fixture Pendant (I spray painted mine.)

Shower Area Products: 

• Delta Sliding Bar w/ Handheld Sprayer
• Delta Elbow for Handheld Sprayer 

Linen Closet Products:

• Hampton Bay Pantry Cabinets
• Liberty Hardware 12” Pulls

Trim Work Products: 

• Nickel Gap Shiplap Board (Ceiling)
• 1”x 3” Finger Joint Board
• 1”x 4” Finger Joint Board
• 1” x 6” Finger Joint Board
• 1”x 8” Finger Joint Board
• Hardboard Panel MDF
• 8’  Base Cap Molding
• Two Panel Door
• Schlage Aged Bronze Door Knob

Tile Products: 

• Bianco Dolomite Tile (Shower Wall) 
• Bianco Dolomite Hexagon (Shower Floor)
• FLOORING

The post Master Bathroom Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

If you aren’t a stranger around here, you are probably already up to speed on the recent office renovations. But if you are new here, might I suggest checking out phase one of this room makeover.

Brief Recap: I had been planning on an office makeover for some time. However plans changed. I was getting two new office mates! (My 11 and 9 year old would be joining me at home for school.) With the new developments I found myself in need of plenty of functional yet beautiful storage. I wanted to maximize every square inch of the office and thus this project was dreamed up, enjoy!

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Clamp
• Tape Measure
• Table Saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Hardware Jig
• Paint Roller/Brush/Sprayer
• Sanding Sponge

Materials Used:

• (x2) Pantry Cabinets
• (x6) Brass Hardware
• (x1) 3/4″ Plywood
• (x2) 1×2″ Common Board
• (x1) 1×6″ Common Board
• Nickel Gap Boards
• 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• Any additional trim boards to math existing molding and baseboards.
• Paint or stain of choice. (Pictured: Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Secure Cabinets Together

Again,  if you have been following the office makeover you are probably aware that I have been using pre-made cabinets. As I was brainstorming additional office storage I found myself perusing pre-made cabinet options and found a winner!  I found pantry cabinets in-stock at my local Home Depot! #winning  

First things first.  Unbox the cabinets  intended to create a built-in.  The cabinets will need to be secured together so that they are essentially one unit.   In order two align them properly, I used clamps to hold the two cabinets together while I secured them together.

  I recommend securing the two units together on the interior sides of the cabinets.  I  secured them at  8 different points,  using a  1 1/4″  wood screw. 

 After  the two units are essentially one it will need to be leveled and secured to the wall. Most homes are level,  mine is not. Ha, I needed to use several shims to make my cabinet level. Once the unit is level it can be secured to the wall. (I will  hide the gap when adding trim.) 

Mark stud placement and drive a 3″ screw through the interior back of your cabinet and into the stud behind it.  Repeat this step a minimum of 4 times per unit. 

Change Door Orientation

 Most  pre-made cabinets will  have doors that swing out in the same direction. I wanted my cabinet doors to both swing out as if it were an armoire.  In order to achieve this look,  I needed to change the orientation of one of the doors.  SOME cabinet companies anticipate this and add pre-drilled holes to accommodate a quick switch. 

Others do not, in which case you will need to transfer the measurements to the blank side and reinstall the hinges.  I did this for both top and bottom swing out doors. 

Build Upper Unit Carcass

Now we are to the fun part, building! Before you dismiss this project because of its perceived skill level, take a beat and hear me out. It’s just a box you guys! Just a box. In order to get the correct sizing you just need to follow some formulas.

WIDTH – Width of the installed cabinet – 1 1/2″= “Upper Interior Width”

DEPTH- Depth of installed cabinet – 3/4″ – 1/2″ = “Upper Side Depth

HEIGHT– This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Mine are 10′ ceilings. Measure from the top of the already installed cabinets, to the ceiling, then subtract 1.5″. This will be the height dimension.

Upper Unit Sides (x2) = height x width

Upper Unit Top and Bottom (x2) = width x depth (If additional shelves are desired cut any additional boards to the same above dimension.)

Secure the upper interior boards to both side boards using pocket holes and pocket hole screws. The top interior board will sit 4″ from the top of the side boards. This will be hidden by a trim piece. If you prefer to just have a free standing unit without trim, then disregard the 4″ drop and install flush with the ends of the side boards.

Shelves

SHELVES*- If a shelf is desired it can be added now. My preferred method is to use a pocket hole jig and drill pocket holes along the long front edge and both ends. (If the shelf is above eye level, I use pocket holes on the top of the board, if it is below eye level I drill pocket holes on the bottom of the board.) In this case I drilled pocket holes on the top of the shelf board and then secured a 1×2″ common board cut to the same length. This will reinforce the shelf and prevent from sagging. Using the pocket holes drilled on both ends secure to the interior of the cabinet carcass. The placement is personal preference. ( You can always make this and adjustable shelf if preferred.)

Construct Face Frame

After the box is assembled, the carcass will need a face frame. The face frame is comprised of 1×2″ and 1×6″ common boards. These four boards can either be attached directly to the cabinet using wood glue and a finish nailer, or you can use a pocket hole jig and secure them together on the back of both ends of the “rails”. ( See below image as a reference.)

Rail Length = Width of the base cabinet – 3″

Stile Height = This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Use the same measurement that was used when cutting the “Upper Cabinet Sides”

Cabinet Back

In order to create cohesion in my office I opted to back my open style cabinet with shiplap/ nickel gap boards. This is not necessary and a simple MDF board will do. In either situation it is a simple case of measuring the height and width of the back of your cabinet and cutting the boards to fit. I installed mine using wood glue and an 1.5″ 18. gauge nail .

Paint (Can be painted once complete.)

Painting method and order are all a matter of personal preference. I opted to spray the cabinet doors and the custom made upper unit in my shop, and painted the pantry cabinets in place. (Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Install Upper Unit

I enlisted the help of my husband to set the upper unit. It was pretty beefy with the 3/4″ ship lap backing! Assuming all dimensions were carefully taken it should fit like a glove! Once properly placed drive 1 1/4″ screws though the top interior of the pantry cabinets and into the base of the upper cabinet (or vise versa). The goal is make sure the upper unit if solidly secured to the base cabinet.

Add Hardware

Hardware is always optional, but when it comes to creating a truly custom look I think they are a must! My cabinets did not have any predrilled holes so I used the dimensions based on the hardware I selected.

When drilling hardware holes I suggest using a jig. I recently started using this one and I love it!

Add Trim Work

In my opinion, trim work is the element that turns a piece of free-standing furniture into a built-in. It just gives it this sophisticated look and I dig it! In this case

I reinstalled my baseboards and installed shoe molding around the base perimeter of my armoire. If you have any questions about installing baseboards I have a full tutorial here. 

On the top of the unit I used the same crown moulding I had through out the room. The only struggle I had was figuring out want color to paint the moulding! Throughout the room the crown moulding and the baseboards are all pure white. Well, my built-ins are Sherwin Williams “Repose Gray”, I wasn’t sure what color the trim should be. After counseling with some friends it was decided it definitely needed to match the built in unit. So, my crown moulding actually changes colors in the corners! Rest assured, it looks great and I haven’t given it a second thought since. It looks bomb.

Well, what do we think? It’s amazing isn’t it? Beautiful, functional, and fairly easy. The ultimate DIY trifecta.

But wait there is more,  I did mention it was functional right?  I made sure to add some extra charging stations so that I could have my electronics!

If you know me, you know I needed to add as much function as absolutely possible. I even added some power strips to the drawer that would serve as my kids electronics charging station. Now we always know where they are, and they go in the drawer when not in use. It is awesome!

Then of course there is the obvious storage. It holds so much stuff! Overall I call this build a complete success.

Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Convert a Cabinet Into a Built-In Armoire appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Based on my current Instagram feed and auto-populated Pinterest  pins, I am not the only one who has functional office space on the brain!  I had been tossing around the idea of homeschooling my kids for the past few years,  then 2020 happened. It was the tiny nudge I needed to make the dive.   I still don’t know if this will be our long term plan, but it is certainly our current one. 

While I have dreamed about building my dream office for years, those plans were rerouted and put on the fast track.  I was about to enter  the  chaotic new school year and I needed organization and I needed it fast!  I was wanting built-ins but trying to accommodate  desks for the kids and it was proving to be a problem. UNTIL  I had brilliant ideas of how to have my cake and eat it too! This idea would allow me to have my beautiful dream office and still give my kids  each the designated workspace they needed!

Here is the clincher, I was nearly positive I could use pre-assembled cabinets to knock out this project even quicker, WINNING!

Gather Supplies

First thing I needed was cabinets! If you have ever been in a kitchen then you know the average size of a base cabinet. They are fairly large and getting them from the back of the store to the front and into your vehicle is a workout! I just ordered ahead and had mine picked up curbside! Wait, did you know you could do that !? You better believe it!

When I arrived at my local Home Depot I had my cabinets ready and waiting for me.

Modify Cabinets *OPTIONAL*

 The  biggest issue I had with using preassembled cabinets was the dimensions.  I like to make everything custom and the cabinets were are little deeper and taller than I would have preferred.  I was just going to have to deal with it… or did I ? 

  My brain started racing and I had an idea. An idea that required me to do some tweaking to the cabinet, so why not  modify the size of the cabinet as well?!

 If  you would like to read more about how  I modified the lower cabinet you can get all the details here. (This is a COMPLETELY optional step! You can easily  re-create this look with standard size cabinets.) 

Countertops

Something to consider before moving forward with  your built-ins is countertops. In the past I have used 3/4″ plywood as counters for my workspaces and have loved them. You can see them here:

• Craft Room
• WorkShop Cabinets
• X-Carve Station 
• Painting Work Station 
• Shop Assembly Table 

While there are several ways to create plywood counters I opted to do a stacked edge and then iron on edge banding to create a seamless look.   You can get the full  countertop tutorial here. 

I know I have said it before and I will say it again. There are always ways to accommodate different skill levels. If you are a little afraid to use a table saw and would prefer to just purchase counter tops, that is an option.

I actually checked out The Home Depot, they have a ton of in-store options, but if they don’t have exactly what you are looking for in-store, I am certain you can find it online. Not only can you find exactly what you are looking for, you can also rely on fast and free shipping on over one million items! #winning

Build Shelves / Upper Supports

Now that I had my upper and lower cabinets home, I needed to create a unified large unit that felt like a custom built-in. I needed to connect the dots! The first step would be forging a connection between both base units and their corresponding upper units.

I had an idea. I would create a shelf that would not only unify the upper and lower cabinets but it would also serve as shelves and a platform to support my upper cabinets! Win.

While this is a simple build I understand that sometimes using a new tool can be an overwhelming and daunting task. By virtue of the fact that you are here, means you are in in the right place. There are a ton of great resources online to help you learn new skills. As a safe bet I love to direct people to The Home Depot Guides . I know with full confidence that I am sending you to a credible source written by professionals for beginners.

The cabinet units are a simple build and would actually be a great beginner project. I designed this project hoping that it would be feasible for a novice learner but also present a more skilled builder options to create one-of-a kind pieces.

Things to consider:

Height and Width- The size of these shelves will vary depending on the height of your ceiling and your cabinet selections. For a size reference I have 10′ ceilings , so I designed my connecting shelf unit to be 27″ tall. I used 30″ wide cabinets, so I built my shelves to be the exact width and depth as my upper cabinets.

(Cabinets come in MANY different dimensions, which is yet another reason that this project could work for any size or space.)

Backing – I knew I wanted to use shiplap boards behind my open shelving areas. Before building I needed to take into account the 1/2″ thickness of my shiplap boards when I was building my units.

Build Upper Unit

The two towers that would frame in my desk were looking beautiful, now it was time to connect the unit together! As I said before I wanted this to have a built-in feel. In order to create this look I needed the unit to come within a few inches of the ceiling so that I could add ceiling molding and give it a true built-in feel.

I decided to make one very long unit to span the distance between the two towers. For size reference my upper unit is 25″ tall and 104″ long. It is not a small unit, but like I said, the build is a simple one and can be altered to fit any space.

Things to consider when building:

Backing: I needed to take into account the depth of my backer boards (in my case shiplap boards) when designing/building. One option would be to attach all the units directly to the wall and then paint the wall to create a unified feel. It would eliminate the need to accommodate a backing board and save some money.

Length: My unit is pretty big! I didn’t want to compromise the length of my desk. I wanted to maximize as much of the office wall as I could. This required the use of longer than standard 96″ boards being ripped and cut. (You could technically splice, fill and sand two boards together.)

If you are a little skittish about building a big unit, this is totally optional for this built in desk. In reality all you need is the two base cabinets and a desk to span the distance between them, but I have always been “extra” and I like it. We are all in different phases of life, do what works for you!

Painting

Before I brought my units inside I opted to paint them in my shop. Regardless if you are using a sprayer or rolling paint on here are my tried and true steps for painting cabinets:

• Lightly Sand (Even with brand new cabinets.)
• Roll or Spray first coat of primer OR  paint and primer. 
• Allow to dry. 
• Lightly sand with a fine grit sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another coat of paint.
• Allow Dry. 
• Lightly sand with a finish sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another  coat of paint. 

Repeat this process until you have full coverage.  Once full coverage is achieved stop!  Do not lightly sand the topcoat.  This process has always given me a beautiful smooth finish. 

 Prime, and paint all units and allow ample time for them to dry before beginning install.  If you would prefer paint in place (which  I would if I were rolling) then skip this step for now and revisit after the units are installed.

Install

Here it starts to get tricky and is a reason that I can’t give an in-depth tutorial when it comes to built-ins. All spaces are tricky and have odd quirks. For instance, our floor slopes slightly and one of our walls bows. Something to consider as you proceed. While there may be a few hiccups you need to work around in your home the basics order remains the same.

Something to consider: If you are planning on trimming out the unit to look like a built-in you will need to remove the existing base boards and potentially crown molding. (Depending on the height of your unit.)

Bring in the base cabinet with countertop installed. ( I secured my countertop from underneath, driving 1 1/4″ through cabinet supports and into the countertop.)

 Stack the previously assembled shelf on top of the countertop. I designed mine to be centered on my countertop. I then used pocket holes to secure the shelf to the countertop.    This is where you will see how close your measurements were!   The goal is to have the joints meet flush and then fill with wood filler. If  you are slightly off, no big deal.   It’s easy enough to add a small piece of scribe molding to hide any discrepancies.  

Repeat the same process for both towers.  It is at this point that I was ecstatic with the look but also… “WHOA this thing is ginormous!”. 

Next,  the connecting shelf needs to be set in place.  My husband had to help me put this behemoth in place.  Again, I paid close attention to the seams  showing at the visible end of the cabinet. 

Install Nickel Gap Board

Once the upper shelf unit is secured I started to dial in all my dimensions. I measure the distance between my two upper cabinets and then cut a 1×6″. board using the those measurements. I then installed the board at the base of the unit connecting my two lower cabinets. This will stabilize the entire unit and ensure that it is square but will also give me a board to attach my shiplap/nickel gap boards to!

     A nickel gap/shiplap board is not at all necessary for  built-ins.  In actuality it requires a little extra planning (Take into consideration the depth of the board when building the units, and it is an additional cost. But the heart wants what the heart wants.) I  had a ridiculous desire to have my boards centered in the unit. So I made my life far more complicated than it needed to be and started in the center.   I attached my nickel gap boards directly to the back of the unit using 2″ finish nails and an 18 g nail gun. 

Secure Unit to Wall

This is step is not required but suggested. Once the backing is attached I secured it to the wall. I found that the best connection points was inside the upper and lower cabinets. Before pushing the entire unit flush to the wall I took note of the stud placement so that I could use those dimensions. Using a 3″ screw I anchored the massive unit to the wall. Again, not necessary but suggested. I didn’t want to run the risk of it toppling should it be used as a jungle gym, but also I knew I would want to trim in the unit to match the existing floor and ceiling trim molding.

Install Desk

Last thing I needed to add to this built-in desk, was a desk! Depending on your preferred height install supports on both base cabinets.  The desk will span between these two supports.  

Once supports are installed place the desktop on top of the supports. Once certain of a proper fit apply an adhesive where the bottom of the desk board and the side supports meet. Then using a 1 1/4″ screw attach the 1×3 back desk support to either the wall or in my case the ship lap boards.

Finishing Touches

While my local Home Depot has a great selection of lighting, I had a very specific idea in mind when it came to the finishing touches for the space. I wanted a light fixture that was simple, and elegant. I wanted it to add to the look of the space while not being a distraction. Thus the reason I opted to remove the existing one. It was AWESOME and such a statement piece, but it felt distracting.

* Do you want to swap out a light fixture but don’t know how? Remember those Home Depot guides I mentioned earlier? They have you covered: “How to install a light fixture.” I am telling you guys, they have it all!

  It’s amazing how the little details can make a huge difference to a space. I feel that throwing in a few books and the new light fixture warm the whole office up! 

Without further ado, I give you my completely transformed office using builder grade cabinets! 

Would you ever look in the space and feel like someone just tossed some kitchen cabinets in the room?  Nope!   Using premade cabinets for this project allowed me to knock out this project in a fraction of the time and would be a project that could easily be tailored to any space or skill level.

 Thanks so much for following along with the office makeover, and stay tuned I just might have some more plans up my sleeve.  

Take Luck, 

Corey 

Sources:

• Nickel Gap Board : The Home Depot
• Upper Cabinet: The Home Depot 
• Lower Cabinets : The Home Depot 
•  Liberty Bronze Drawer Pulls :The Home Depot 
• Old- Cage Light Fixture: The Home Depot –Home Decorators Collection 
• New- Drum Light Fixture : The Home Depot 
• Wall Color-  Pure White Behr 
• Cabinet Color – Repose Gray 150% 
• Rolling Chairs- Facebook Marketplace  ( You can get something similar here.) 

The post Create a built-in Office Using Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Is this not the most beautiful accent wall you have ever seen ? Would you believe that it is made out of faux stone panels and I knocked it out in one day!?

I am not exaggerating when I say that anyone can do this! This is a very entry level DIY that looks so realistic it is insane. Another bonus? It requires very few tools and the panels are very easy to work with!

Prepping Panels

I think the trickiest part putting up the first row. I wanted the rock ledge to meet fleshly with my baseboards. The edge of these panels follows the outline of the stones. When cutting the straight edge make sure you cut all of your first row with the same dimension. They are designed to be butted up to each other and create a seamless look.

The cutting process is very simply. I map out my dimensions and used a sharpie to draw them onto the panel. Using a straight edge and a utility knife knife I cut out the desired dimensions. It usually only took me one pass with my utility blade, but if you encounter a stubborn segment, simply bend and snap along the scored line.

Adhering Panels

When applying the tiles, you are going to want to cut and then apply the panels one at a time. When doing this project I found that using DAP caulk work famously. Another option would be using a product like DAP DYNAGRIP. I have loved using this product for heavy duty projects like this SHIPLAP project. DYNAGRIP has a nearly instant hold that is adjustable.

These panels are very lightweight so I opted for a caulk that would be a strong hold but still feasibly removable should I ever opt to remove the stone.

Using a caulk gun apply DAP caulk to the back of the panels. I used the raised grout lines as a guide for applying the caulk. By doing this it ensured even adhesion without wasting caulk.

Once a the ALEX Caulk or DYNAGRIP adhesive is applied the panel can be applied to the wall. The panel will very easily stay put! If you are using DYNAGRIP this thing won’t be going anywhere and will be adjustable but will take some pressure to move it. Using caulk it will stay put but can easily be moved around until the caulk begins to set.

Due to the nature of this project I decided to tack the panel in place in one or two places on the panel. While the caulk or DYNAGRIP will easily hold the panels on the wall, I didn’t want them to shift whatsoever when I was butting the next panel up to the joint.

Like I said, work with one panel at a time. Cut to the desired locations, apply caulk or DYNAGRIP, tack in place, then repeat with the next panel.

Applying “Grout” (Spackle)

Once the panels are installed it is time to give these faux stones some character! If you recall forever ago, I created a I German smear brick wall using faux brick panels. It has held up amazingly and is a beautiful feature in our home. When I found these panels I knew exactly what to do with them, I would take a note out of my old playbook and use ALEX PLUS Spackle to achieve a faux over-grouted look.

Something to consider, spackle in and of itself is not intended to be used as a grout. I am aware. However,I have never actually seen anyone ever try to over-grout plastic wall panels . I am in unchartered territory. However, this is what I DO KNOW. I have used DAP ALEX PLUS spackle for many projects and have been amazed with it.

It has excellent adhesion, does not sink or shrink, and is extremely durable. THIS IS EXACTLY the attributes I needed for this project. I needed a product that would adhere to the surface of the panel and would not shrink as it dried. (In this case, if the product were to shrink it would pull itself away from the panel and may not stick the way I needed it to.) It also is extremely durable. These panels are made of a flimsy plastic. If you press on them, they do give a little. I needed a product that would be durable and not crack and chip if the panel was flexed.

While spackle is not specifically made for this application, it was a no brainer that I trusted ALEX PLUS to be my absolute best bet… and I was right! After quite a few flex, and scratch tests this product is holding up like a charm.

When I first started this project I was totally winging it, by the 10th panel I had my technique down to a science. The easiest way to apply the spackle was to fill a grout bag with ALEX PLUS spacke. I suggest working in sections no bigger than 2’x2′. Pipe a liberal amount of the “grout” into the joint lines between the stones.

Once a section of the stone had the spackle piped into the joints, I troweled over the spackle using a small putty knife. I used the putty knife to push the spackle completely into he joints while also spreading the excess spackle over the surrounding stones. Part of the appeal of an over-grouted stone is that is fairly low contrast and the “grout” unifies to the stones and creates a softer feel. I tried to mimic this look using the spackle.

After using a putty knife to spread out the spackle, I wanted to create some depth to the crevices.. BY definition sparkle is suppose to fill holes and create a smooth surface, so I needed to run my finger along the joints in order to create a very gentle curve to the grout line.

After the cracks are smoothed out, we are ready for the finishing touch! Using a damp terry cloth rag, I gently dabbed along the spackle to create a uniform texture. I also dabbed some of the excess spackle onto the surrounding stone. It gave it a very natural look that helped blend the contrast between the different color stones.

Just look at that finish! Can you believe that this was just a flimsy plastic panel? With just a little bit of elbow grease and creativity they now look like an old-world/tuscan villa!? However you want to catergorize this look, I just know that it is beautiful and it gave our small powder room the “wow factor”! Mission complete.

Thanks so much for following along, and a big shout out to sponsors like DAP that allow me to keep creating content so that I can share it with great folks like you!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Faux Stone Wall appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

So today I have teamed up with my friends over at DAP to bring you a basic walk through of the process.  Beginner to trim work?   NO WORRIES!  That is where DAP products come into play.  It is like an eraser for the little mistakes due either to A.) user error. Or B.) Contractor Error. (In every home I have ever lived in there are always weird discrepancies, and walls that aren’t square.  This makes it really tricky to trim out a room.  But with miracle workers like caulk, and wood filler you can easily fake it until you make it! 

Tools Suggested: 

• Pry Bar
• Rubber Mallet or Hammer
• Pliers
• Miter Saw
• 18 gauge Nailer
• DAP Plastic Wood
• DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
• Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

• 1×6″ Primed Finger Board
• Quarter Round Trim
• 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
• Foam Sanding Block
• Damp Cloth
• Caulk Gun

Before you begin:  There are a lot of different options when it comes to baseboards.  There are different materials, widths and designs to choose from.  Me?  I like a big, beefy baseboard with a very simple profile.  That being said, I couldn’t find anything I truly loved in the “baseboard”  section. So I ventured outside of the isle and found this 1×6 primed finger board.  They come in 16′ boards from The Home Depot and I love them!  They are very sturdy,  so they like to hold their shape.  They  don’t mold to the shape of a wavy wall.  WHICH I LIKE!  One of my biggest pet peeves when it comes to homes is being able to see a wall wave. I think flimsy molding only emphasizes the problem.  When I use a sturdier board,  it makes me need to shim a little here and there and correct the problem,  not call attention to it.  I then  resolve any gaps with caulk and paint.  It is amazing what a little caulk and paint can do for a seriously  crooked wall…  Okay,  I will crawl down off my soapbox now. But if you were wondering about my choice, that is my reasoning. THAT and if you want to add any wall treatments such as shiplap or board and batten this gives  you a baseboard with the width to make that feasible. 

Remove Existing Baseboards

When removing baseboards, I suggest running a utility blade along the top of the board.  As you will soon see (in the coming steps)  when  finishing baseboards you fill the gap between the wall and the baseboard with caulk.  If you cut that line you can rest assured that you will have a nice clean break. If you don’t you simply risk pulling some of the paint off the wall.  In my case I was replacing my existing baseboards with a much beefier baseboard so I was not too worried about a little pit of paint peel.

Next,  get in there and pull them off!  Don’t be afraid to be forceful.  I like to use a pry bar and hammer.  Just wedge the pry bar in-between the wall and the baseboard and give it a good solid hit with a hammer, or rubber mallet. Once you get it started, it normally  is fairly easy to pull away from the wall.

Remove Any Remaining Nails

Often times when you pull the baseboard away it will leave stubborn nails behind.  You will need to remove these before installing new baseboards.  I just run around with a basic set of pliers and pull them out before moving on.

Measure Dimensions

Now, take a deep breath.   I feel like this is where people start to get overwhelmed.  There are no secret tips,  it is just taking your time to make accurate measurements. In most  rooms you will only  be making 45 degree angle cuts.  I always measure from outside corner to outside corner. If you are in doubt always cut it a little too long, over a little too short. As my Dad  use to say “It’s a lot easier to make a board shorter than it is longer.”

Mark Measurements

Once you have your measurement transfer it to your board.

Tip: If you are cutting a board that will have a 45 degree angle cuts on both ends,  begin by cutting one end at a 45, THEN  measure and mark your board.  When marking my board  I try to always make it so that I when I’m cutting the board I can line the saw blade up with my pencil mark. 

Set Miter to 45 degree angle

If you have never  used a miter saw to make 45 degree cuts,  this is an easy step that will open the door to a lot of new project potential!  Because I am cutting boards that are 5.5″ I needed to cut my board laying flat and use the bevel option on my saw.  This simply means that I am pivoting the saw instead of pivoting the platform the saw is on . (Reference image below.)

Like I said, with the width of my baseboards  I needed to position my boards to use the bevel option. If you are using a shorter basedoard you can stand them on end.  This is a personal choice. Check Fit/Install/Repeat

This is the moment of truth!  Bring your board in and set your board in place.  If it fits nicely “well done!!!”. I like to use a 18 gauge nailer and 2″ nails to set my boards.

Go ahead and move on to the next board.  You will repeat this around the entire space.  Just take careful measurements and be aware of corners. where corners meet you will need to adjust which direction your 45 degree angle goes.

If your boards aren’t perfect, don’t sweat it!  I have been doing this for years, and  I still have ill fitting boards. Sometimes this is totally  out of your control. Many times the room or wall you are working against is not square and you would have to make really wonky cuts to make it line up properly.   So don’t sweat it,  we will cover how to fix those discrepancies in a minute.

Repeat with Quarter Round

This step may or may not be necessary for you.  As stated earlier, I had “recently” *cough cough*  replaced the flooring in this room. Because of this I was left with a 1/2″ gap all around the perimeter of my room.  This simply would not do!  In order to cover that gap I needed to install a piece of “quarter round” trim.  However if you are not doing this in conjunction to replacing floors,  this step is unnecessary. Lucky you!

Prep For Paint

Alright, now that all the baseboards, (and in some case 1/4 round trim) is installed, we are in the home stretch. Now the FUN part,  making it look pretty.  I know they may not be much to look at right now,  but with some of my  favorite products  it will look like a pro installed them.

Start by applying a small amount of DAP Plastic Wood to all  the nail holes in the trim.  This stuff is great, and has been my favorite to use thus far.  It dries quick, is sandable and paintable. LOVE IT! 

Sand

Once the filler dries do a once over with a foam sanding block.  This will remove any excess filler in the event you got a little too enthusiastic. 

Wipe Down

Once you have gone over the boards with a sanding block, and your board feels smooth you are ready to wipe them down with a damp cloth. 

Caulk

NOW we are ready for the magic-maker.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip. Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to .

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!  Ok, now take a look at the difference!  I am telling you ,  caulk is a miracle worker. As my friend Jen Woodhouse says “Try your best and then calk the rest.” Truer words my friend!

Not sold yet ?!  Look at this joint!  Seriously,  I have been doing this for a little while, and when you don’t have straight walls,  perfect joints are nearly impossible.  Look at what caulk did for this corner. 

Paint

Another thing I love about DAP Molding Caulk?  It dries fast! For an impatient DIYer such as myself this is a huge selling factor!   I want to be able to paint and get a project done fast!  I don’t want to be sitting around waiting for caulk to dry.

Alright, there you have it! In an afternoon I was able to make this laundry room look 5 x’s better. AND I only touched the baseboards!  I am telling you I have a lot in store for this space, so stay tuned because I  have teamed up with DAP and The Home Depot to make this space spectacular!

Next up?  Let’s do something about that wall of random half painted cabinets. Stay tuned! Take Luck,

 Corey

The post How to Update Baseboards appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

In all honesty,  my tag line really does speak the truth… I really “can’t leave well enough alone.”

Remember what it looked like before? Here is a refresher. 

Like I said,  there was absolutely  nothing wrong with it. It was beautiful, but I just got a wild hair, and felt like mixing things up.

That “wild hair” actually  paid off!  Here is a fun fact for you… with the $$ I made from selling my old dining set, I was able to purchase everything I needed for the new space.  I DID purchase  a new table ($200) , the buffet table ($70), and the potting shelf ($20) from Craigslist! (While I typically build all my furniture, I have had a LOT of looming deadlines, and honestly the price I got all these pieces were, were a steal!  It would cost me a lot more $ to build it. So sometimes I just grit my teeth and buy a piece of furniture.  A little part of my dies inside, but then I get over it, and realize I am just one person.  I was also able to buy all my chairs from Target and  had a few dollars extra that I put towards the materials for my shelves and my DIY artwork.

 Well,  what do you think !?  I was able to snag the black out door patio chairs for $39 each.   I am somewhat enamored with them, and strongly believe they complete the look of this whole room! In actuality, it was one very slap happy girls night at Target that spurred the whole makeover. While lounging in the patio section of Target with some girlfriends on a late night Target run, I fell in love with these metal outdoor chairs!  It was then that the wheels started turning, and I started plotting. Which pretty much brings us up to date.   I definitely wanted to have some repetition of the black chairs so I opted to spray paint my DIY light fixture! If you love it and want to make your own, I have all the DIY details here.  (Spoiler alert I was able to make this 3 pendant fixture for less than $40!)If you have been following along with the process of the dining room makeover, then you know all about my most recent build, by bracket open shelving. However, if you are new around here I have got you covered.  You can read all about how I built these shelves here. 

To say that I love this new fresh look is an understatement.  The brightened brick wall with, fresh light wood, and dramatic black pops is just heavenly!
Well there you have it folks.   My take on a fresh modern farmhouse!

 Thanks for following along and take luck!
Corey

The post Modern Farmhouse Dining Room Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey All!  I am pleased to announce that my boys room is FINALLY 100% finished!  A few years ago I started my little boys’ plane themed room. I have always known how to use tools, (construction background) but furniture building is actually a hobby I picked up a few years ago. One of my very first  projects was a bunk bed for my boys. Let’s just say, it was a classic learning experience.  You know the old saying “measure twice, cut once”?  Well, I am a little too impatient for said motto.  Somehow my dimensions were off and I made the bunk bed a little too small for a standard size mattress. Whoops!  Well, I was desperate and just MADE the mattress fit. As a result we have absolutely destroyed their mattresses over the past few years.  The kids were past due for new mattresses,  but that meant building another bed!? Ugh.  Sometimes, even I need to accept that I cannot do it all and I need to get reinforcement from the professionals. As you all know I have been ridiculously busy  remodeling a home and building a shop, but the kids NEEDED a new bed, and I didn’t have the time… So allow me to introduce you to my lifeline, City Furniture.

After shopping around and comparing prices and reviews I found that City Furniture  would be just the ticket.  They  had a  great selection of Kid/Teen  bedroom furniture to choose from. 

After heavily  considering it, we opted for the twin over twin bunk bed with a trundle pullout! We have little cousins that like to have sleepovers and it is nice to have an extra bed readily available. Because let’s be real, who ever had a good nights rest on an air mattress. 

They  had several options that we considered,  but I thought that the white was just what this space needed. I wanted it to be light and brighten the space. Ultimately we opted for  the “Lauren” bunk bed.
 It was the perfect fit ! Here is a view of the far side of the room.  I just love this little nook consisting of an up-cycled bookcase, a tent made by yours truly, and a big comfy reading chair inherited from a friend.  The far wall consists of a crate dresser I made for my kiddos to store all their toys. (I built this after I had a few years of  furniture building under my belt, and you can get the build plans here.) As well as a world map I painted on a flat sheet!  

Here is one more satisfying last shot of the kids’ room!

There is so much satisfaction in knowing that …

• A.) The space is “check off my list”DONE!
• B.) The room is beautiful and highly functional.
• C.) It was done at a very affordable price.
• And last but not least my kids LOVE it!  I am calling that a WIN!  Thanks so much for reading along!

Take Luck,

Corey

DISCLOSURE:  This post is sponsored by City Furniture.  I was provided product and compensation for this post.  All opinions and ideas; however, are 100% my own.  

The post Boys’ Bunk Bed Room appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.