I have been on the hunt for an affordable over the garage trellis option. After searching high and low I ultimately decided a budget friendly garage trellis did not exist. Instead of wasting more time searching I put on my thinking cap and designed and built my own affordable and aesthetically pleasing over the garage trellis!
|Tools Suggested||Materials Used|
| Miter Saw|
able Saw (Optional*)
½” Drill Bit ½”
| 2×6 Cedar Boards |
(x9) 4” Screws
(x1) Shelf Bracket
(x2) Large BracketBracket Screws
(x6) Ikea Curtain Rods (or Conduit)
Black Matte Spray Paint
Cut Boards for Corbels
Cut all necessary boards. (Determined by the desired number of corbel/brackets.) In my case I utilized a total of three brackets to span over a 2-car garage entry. I used to “Large” corbels for the sides, and one “Small” corbel as a center support.
I found that it was very helpful using a speed square accurately mark the hole placement. Word to the wise, mark the placement for all the corbels at the same time. This will ensure that the holes will all line up when ultimately run the poles through the corbels.
*Something to consider: Before drilling determine the best size bit for your rods. I used inexpensive IKEA curtain rods. These rods worked best when I used a 7/8” paddle bit to dill out the hole.
I opted to use a drill press; this required a lot of resituating the depth of the drill as I drilled through the board. While it required a little work, I highly recommend using a drill press.
If using a drill press is not possible, a drill is still an option. It will just require a very level and steady hand.
Another Option: Drilling straight holes through the entirety of the 5.5” board is definitely the trickiest part of this build, there are a few ways to adjust the skill level. Using a 2×4” board as opposed to a 2×6” board will make the step easier. It will change the overall aesthetics, but it is an option.
Cut Chamfered Edge on Corbel Board (Optional)
I opted to add a chamfered edge to the ends of my boards. This is not a necessary step, I simply wanted to jazz up my corbels. You can achieve this look. By either using a router or a table saw.
In order to create a chamfer edge, I set my table saw blade on a 45 degree angle. In order to prevent cutting my rip fence I used clamps to secure a scrap board to the fence.
Sand and Seal Corbel Boards
Before assembling I sanded all my boards and then treated them with and exterior stain and sealer.
I used Olympic Elite exterior Stain and Sealant in the color “American Chesnut” I used this same stain when I created my “Vertical Planter” and I loved it so I used it again.
Using 4” exterior use screws secure the horizontal board to the (soon to be wall mounted) vertical board. Reference the PDF Plan(s) to see the designated measurements.
Secure Corbels to Wall
In my case I will be attaching my trellis brackets to our stucco/block home. Seeing as I will be drilling into concrete, I’ll need to take a few extra steps. In order to secure it into masonry I will need to use a sleeve anchor. They are basically a mollie for concrete. I am using a 4” long by 1/2” diameter sleeve anchor.
To use these anchors, I need to drill a ½” hole to accommodate the sleeve. I drilled a hole at both the top and the bottom center of my brackets.
BEFORE YOU GET DRILL HAPPY… take the time to check, double-check, and triple-check the placement of the corbels. They will need to be perfectly level in order to accommodate the poles that will run through them. I began by installing my center bracket first and then took careful measurements to figure out the positions of the side corbels.
Once the holes were drilled in the bracket, I positioned the bracket in the desired location. While holding the bracket in place I used the holes pre-drilled as a template for drilling holes in the masonry.
Drilling holes in masonry is not as scary as it sounds, so long as you use the right tools. I suggest a ½” masonry bit and a “hammer drill”. (Pictured below is a “Rotary Hammer Drill”.)
I drilled a hole approximately 3” deep into the masonry. This measurement considers the length of the anchor and the depth of the bracket board
After hole is drilled into masonry, insert the anchor sleeve through the wooden bracket and into the hole drilled in the masonry. It should be a snug fit but should slide in without the use of tools. (If necessary. use a rubber mallet to tap into place.)
Once the anchor is in place use a wrench to tighten the anchor. The anchor will expand as you tighten the bolt ensuring that the bracket is securely attached to the wall.
I knew I wanted the hardware to all be black, however I also knew that painting them before tightening the bolts would scratch up the paint job. Instead, I installed all the hardware and then cut a 1” hole in a scrap piece of paneling and used it to mask off the rest of the corbel and expose the unpainted nut. I used a satin black paint and primer and it worked like a charm.
Almost done! In order to complete the over the garage trellis we needed to connect our corbels. To do this I used inexpensive curtain rods from Ikea. I found that they worked excellent and the fact that the could extend made it a great option.
Another great option would be using ½” electrical conduit. I liked using the curtain rods because they came with everything I needed to add finials (end caps), but fear not I have a tutorial how-to add finials to electrical conduit curtain rod here.
Once all the rods are in place, add finials (if desired) and add a vining variety plant. I opted for Bougainvillea that I purchased a few month prior to building my over the garage trellis. In order to help it reach the new corbels I did build a small trellis that would bridge distance between the corbels and the ground.
That just about wraps up yet another homerun DIY project. I had looked into over the garage trellis options for years and never found anything affordable. I’d like to think that I knocked this inexpensive DIY out of the park.
Thanks for following along.
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