The one thing I feel like my shop is missing is a paint booth. In the past I have used some pop-up tents, and I did find a nifty little attachment for sports canopies… but I still wanted something was a little more user friendly.

The Solution: DIY Paint Booth

My big requirement when designing a spray area was that it was easily accessible but did not take up much space. I decided to create heavy duty divider to help provide some protection to the rest of my shop from over spray. Here is what I cam up with:

I decided the best approach would be long heavy duty curtains that could be pulled open when in use and drawn shut when not in use. After a fair bit of research I decided that using IKEA curtain rods and drop cloths were the best approach.

* This is one of those projects that I will just show you in broad strokes what I did. Every space will be different and require different dimensions. For the sake of this tutorial, my ceilings are 10′ and the “paint booth” is approximately 13′ by 13′.

Installing Hooks for Paint Booth

I first mapped out how large I wanted my DIY paint booth to be. I then marked those dimesnions on my ceiling. My ceiling has exposed trusses which made this process very simple! I used my trusses to anchor my utility hooks. I understand that this is probably not the case in most garages/shops. It will take a little bit of work to map out where you have available trusses and/or ceiling joists.

Once anchor points are located, use a 1/4″ drill bit to pre-drill the location for the utility hooks.

After the holes are drilled hand screw in the utility hooks. ( I used rubber coated hooks so that it would prevent the curtain rod from slipping.)

I used the 1″ curtain rods from IKEA so they had some rigidity to them. After playing around with their strength I decided that one hook every 5′ was more than adequate.

Prep Curtains for Paint Booth

When preparing for this project I did experiment with several options. The front runners were tarps and drop cloths. Tarps where cheaper, but they were very light weight and blew all over the place. I tried adding some weights to the bottom of the tars using several different methods but ultimately decided the hassle wasn’t worth saving a few dollars. I went with the drop cloths.

the great thing about drop cloths is that they have a hefty weight to them, they are fairly affordable and come in many different sizes! I ended up using (x4) 12’x15′. ( I didn’t hem mine but if you wanted to make these more custom to your space, hemming is always an option.) If you want to know more about how to hem, check out this tutorial here: Hemming Curtains.

To make things simple I used curtain rings. There are pros and cons to using them; yes, it is cheaper to sew a pocket for the rod… however using the rings will make the curtains slide effortlessly. I ordered bulk packs of clips from Amazon and placed a ring approximately every 8″. ( Like I said these drop cloths are heavy and they will need the support.)

In order to prevent the rings from sliding off the end I used IKEA rod ends, also known as finials. (They were all out of the matching black, so gray will have to do.)

Hang Them Up!

I simply hung up the rods and can easily pull them out when in use, and tuck them away when not needed.

When in use, I have a tarp that I lay down on the floor. It is nothing fancy, but it is cheap and it does the trick.

Ventilation

As I states before, this is just a broad stroke tutorial on a concept that could easily be adapted to any space. My shop has and industrial fan that is directly above my paint booth. I simply turn it on and it sucks the paint fumes up and out. (Yes, my ceiling is exposed and there will be some paint that will accumulate over time.) This is not a sterile environment, but it will mitigate the amount of over spray that ends up all over my shop during a paint project.

Another suggestion would be to strategically situate your paint booth in front of a window and cut a hole in the drop cloth to accommodate the window and place a box fan with a air filter in the window. ( Again, not a professional setup but it definitely DIY level boujie spray booth.)

Sources:

• Utility Hooks: Amazon 
• Curtain Rods:  IKEA
• Curtain Ring Clips :  Amazon
• Drop Cloths (x4):  Amazon
• Tarp:   The Home Depot

The post DIY Paint Booth appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Christmas in 2020

I think we can all agree 2020 has been an endless parade of unknowns. As a whole we have adapted, made changes, and tried to find our new norm. As a general consensus I don’t think that all these changes have been ideal. However, I will say that it has created lots of opportunities to try new things. Now more than ever is the perfect time to dive into DIY and create one-of -a kind gift for the Holidays! Today I’m going to show you how to make a Lazy Susan that doubles as a serving tray/charcuterie board, it would be the perfect gift for anyone who loves to host!

If you are looking for more great homemade gifts be sure you check out The Home Depot for more holiday gift ideas.. They have DIY gift ideas/tutorials that are a great and inexpensive ways to personalize holiday gift giving.

Tools Suggested:

• Router (Optional)
• Tape Measure
• Pencil 
• 1/8″ Drill Bit 
• 1/4″ Drill Bit 
• Drill and Phillips Bit 
• Finish Sander
• Paint Brush (or preferred stain and sealer applicant)

Materials Used: 

• 12″ Laminated Wood Round 
• 24″ Laminated Wood Round 
• 1/4″ Dowel Rod
• (x2) Lazy Susan Turntable
• Wood Glue
• Sand Paper 
• Stain 
• Polyurethane 

Materials

While there are many different materials one could use to create a tiered Lazy Susan, I opted to use two laminate wood rounds (12″ & 24″ ) and two “Lazy Susan Turntable(s)”.

Add Decorative Flourishes(Optional)

While adding decor is not a necessary part of this project, it it fun way to add your own touch to a personalized gift. There are many options such as painting, wood burning, or carving. I opted to add a small routed groove around the perimeter of each of my circle rounds. I felt like it gave it a more custom feel. ( In order to do this I created a simple jig that pivoted from a screw in the center of my wood rounds.)

Secure Turntable to Small Circle

Find the center of the small round board, and mark screw placement.

Pre-drill the previously marked screw holes with an 1/8th ” drill bit.

Secure turntable using 1/2″ screws.

Mark and Add Dowels

The end-goal for this project is to have two turntable trays that can be used independently or stacked for a tier effect. In order to have them stack securely I needed to add little pegs to prevent the top tier from shifting on the bottom tier.

In order to create the pegs I used a 1/4″ dowel rod and cut (x4) 3/4″ pieces.

Place the second Lazy Susan Turntable centered on the top of the large wood round. Use the turntable as a template to mark the placement of the LARGER holes. Using a 1/4″ drill bit, drill 1/2″ deep holes as straight as possible.

Now it’s time to place the pegs. Add a dab of wood glue to the bottom of the pegs and firmly push into place.

If necessary use a hammer to gently tap the dowels into the holes.

Alternate Option (Mark and Add Screws)

Now, if the dowel rod idea seems a little tricky, no worries I have got you covered. (You can do this!)

The point of the dowel rods is to hold the turntable in place . We can accomplish the same principle by adding a few small headed screws (placed the same way the dowels were). I opted for the dowel rods because they can be stained and are less obtrusive should someone wish to use the large one by itself.

Whether you opt to use the peg or screw method, the results are the same. These four screws/dowels will allow you to drop the small turntable tray on top without it shifting.

Secure Turntable to Large Circle

Use the same steps used to secure the first turntable to the smaller tray to the bottom of the larger wood round.

Sand

A great way to really personalize this gift is by adding some color! Before we start staining or painting I would suggest sanding both trays with some fine sandpaper.

Stain

As I said before, the finish is a great way to really personalize this gift! You can use their favorite color or if you can recollect what wood tones they use in their kitchen that is probably a safe bet!

Seal

Because this item could potentially be used for food items make suer you check your sealants before applying. The Home Depot has a handy list of “Food Safe Finishes” if you are at all uncertain of which product to use. Seeing as I used a stain first my best bet was using a “film finish” meaning that it will seal a previously stained surface. I used WaterBased Polyurethane. The biggest thing to ensure it is food safe is allowing it to cure completely before use.

You did it! How simple was that? Just two boards and two turntables and you have an impressive DIY gift that anyone would love!

Thanks for following along and make sure you check out all the other great gift ideas on The Home Depot’s website.

The post Lazy Susan Charcuterie Board appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Tools Used: 

• Drill Press or Drill 
• 1/8″ Drill Bit (for metal use) 
• Dewalt Drill Tap Combo
  • Set Screws  1/4″- 20x 3/8″ (width x  thread per inch x length)
• Threading Tool Set 
  •  
• Multi-Use Pliers/Wire Cutters
•  

Materials Used: 

• DAP Rapid Fuse 
• Electrical Conduit Coupling  1/2″- (size preference may vary dependent on light fixture rod diameter.)
• Stainless Steel Welding Rods – (4 per light fixture)
• Matte Black Spray Paint 
• Pendant Light Kit – Lowes  (What I used.)
• Pendant Light Kit -Amazon (Similar) 
• Lamp Shade – Lowes (What I used.) 
• Lamp Shade– Amazon (Similar) 
• (x1 sheet) 3/4″ plywood- (Optional Mounting Base)
• (x2 boards) 1×4″ standard pine boards- (Optional Mounting Base)

Dang It Instagram

Recently I have noticed a truly gorgeous light fixture popping up all over Instagram. It’s gorgeous, sophisticated, a little edgy and REALLY expensive! Dang, hopes were really high as I followed the links to Rejuvenations website only to discover my dream light fixtures would cost me my first born and my right arm. Ok, maybe not my first born, but definitely a few appendages. DANG!

But wait… I am Corey freaking Decker. I can figure this out! Thus began a slow shopping trip that included every isle of Home Depot. I could figure this out. I just needed to think outside of the box.

Creating Collar

After browsing every isle of every department of The Home Depot I had an idea. An idea that included a conduit coupling! Electrical department you have saved me again. An electrical coupling would totally work for the junction point on the light fixture, right !?

Converting the coupling into a junction point was definitely the trickiest part of this project. I needed this small piece to hold the metal arms in place and it also needed to stay suspended on the rod, but I had a plan.

Did you know you can drill into metal? You can, in fact it is a fairly simple process. All you need is a drill bit intended for metal. I was planning on using 1/8″ welding metal rods for my arms so I used a 1/8″ metal bit to drill holes right through my conduit.

Incase you are wondering what the contraption in the above picture is, it’s a drill press. It is definitely handy, but not necessary. You can easily use a standard drill for this step. The important thing is to make sure that you drill 4 evenly spaced holes are on the lower half of the coupling.

Adding Set Screw

Have you ever heard of a set screw ? It is a nifty little piece of hardware that will make this project possible! Basically you can thread your own hole and use a tiny set screw to create tension. So let’s get started!

Adding a set screw will require some new tools, we will be using a drill and tap set. I already have a full set, but if you just need the tool for this project I would suggest either the Dewalt Drill Tap Combo or Drill, Tap and T-handle set.

Tool Thoughts:

Dewalt Drill Tap Combo– I have never actually used this but have heard good things. It is a drill bit that both drills and then taps/threads a hole. Again I cannot vouch for this system but it seems like a great concept.

Drill, Tap and T-handle set– This is the same basic style of system I used. It comes with a drill bit, which you follow-up with a tap that threads the hole. It comes with a hand grip that allows you to hand drive the tap.

Just as before, I would need to drill two holes for my set screws in the coupling. To do this I used the 1/4″ drill bit . (This is included in both of the above mentioned kits.) These holes will need to be evenly space on the upper perimeter of the coupling. To make things easy on myself I simply drilled directly above my existing holes. Again, I used my drill press to make short order of the job, but it can easily be done using a standard drill.

Once both 1/4″ holes are drilled through the coupling I am ready to thread it. In order to thread the hole I will need to use the tap bit. In the kit I used, I insert the coordinating tap pit (1/4″) into the hand tool. When threading a hole you will insert the tap in the pre-drilled hole. The key to threading properly is take make sure you are level, and drive/twist the tap in slowly. It will take a little bit of muscle.

Once the hole is threaded, ensure the coordinating 1/4″ set screws fit.

Making Arms/Supports

Next it is time to create the arms/supports. To do this I used 1/8″ x 36″ welding rods. To start I created a small “U” shaped hook at the bottom of four rods. These will hold/hook the bottom of the lamp shade.

(As a point of reference my lamp shade is top diameter is approximately 10″, the base diameter is approximately 16″ and the height is 14″.)

In order to create identical rods I would HIGHLY recommend creating a jig. The dimensions for a jig will be dependent on the size of your lamp shade. Before you create a jig, hook the “U” shape under the edge of your lamp shade, once the rod is in place mark where you think the bend in the rod should be. (As a point of reference my lamp shade is 13″ tall and my rods are 19″ from the end of the “u” to the bend.)

The jig is simple to create. It consists of 3 screws, a platform, and a straight edge. The goal is to hook the priorly created “u” on a single screw. This will hold the rod steady and will also help in continuity in the length of all the arms.

There will need to be a second set of screws that the straight end of the rod will slide through. This will be the bending point in the rod. Again at this point I would hold the rod up to your lamp shade and see what feels right for the angle of the bend. Originally, I bent mine about 90 degrees, but it looked a little harsh, so relaxed it to more of a 105-ish degree. No matter what angle you settle on, mark the angle on your base board and make sure you use it as a template for all the rods.

Alright, once the arms have a “u” hook, and elbow/bend we are ready to make our last reference to your lamp shade and rod. Hold the rod in place and mark where the rods will need to be cut in order to connect to the center rod and accompanying coupling.

As a point of reference, I cut mine 4.5″ from the bend.

If you want to play it safe you can first assemble your light fixture and install the coupling and then measure the distance you need from the elbow to the coupling.

Regardless of the measurement, make sure you mark all of your rods together. These all need to be identical for this to work. I used a sharpie to mark my rods.

I then used wire cutters remove the excess rod.

Before beginning the assembly process I spray painted all my components in a matte black. This will include your light fixture kit, the rods, and the coupling. (This could look absolutely stunning in a brass finish!

Assembling Fixture

After the pieces have had adequate time to dry, it is time to assemble! Most light fixture kits disassemble as seen below. Thread the wiring through the circle in the center of the spider like legs that support the lamp shade. After, thread the wires through the accompanying rod, then screw them together.

Next we will add our modified coupling to the rod. Tighten the setting screws so that the coupling will not slide freely on the rod. ( This is a temporary placement, so don’t tighten it too much, it may scuff your paint job.)

Now it is time to add the arms. While the arms are designed to fit snuggly in the previously drilled holes, I need to give them a little help. RapidFuse is just the ticket. To put it simply, it is like a SUPER glue for all sorts of surfaces, including metal surfaces! This will give the arms the staying power that this light fixture needs.

A small dab of DAP RapidFuse is all that is needed. Just add a small amount to the interior of the pre-drilled hole intended for the arms/supports. Promptly after applying the glue insert the first support. When doing so ensure that the arm is sitting straight. You don’t want wonky arms!

Repeat the above process on all four arms of the light fixture.

Make sure you use RapidFuse on each of the arms, this is what is going to hold this whole contraption together.

After each of the arms are snuggly fit and secured it is time to finish assembling the light fixture! Add the remaining/desired light fixture rods and the mounting plate. ( You can use the directions included in your light kit if further details are needed.)

Remember how I mentioned that the set screw would only be a temporary hold? Now that all the arms are in place, loosen the set screws and if needed adjust the placement of the coupling. Ensure that all the “U’s” on the end of the supports are hooked under the bottom ledge of the lamp shade. Once the arms are sitting in place tighten both set screws tightly.

Mounting Base- Optional

My dining room only has one light junction box, and seeing as I am more comfortable building than I am running electrical I decided to build a box that would allow me to mount multiple light fixtures and hide all the electrical behind the box.

Actually, that is partly true. I ORIGINALLY. used the box for the aforementioned reasoning. When I built my first kitchen light fixture I needed something to hide the wire. You can get all the details about my process here.

However, with this light fixture my motives for the box were a little different. I had a vision and I wanted to bring some beautiful wood tones to the space, and a stained mounting box was just the ticket!

While I won’t go into the nitty-gritty details, here is a basic overview. The mounting box consists of 5 boards. The base which is. 3/4″ piece of plywood, and 1×4″ select pine boards.

I cut my 3/4″ plywood to my desired dimension and then but my 1×4″ boards to fit the piece of plywood. (I mitered the corners.) The important thing to consider when assembling, you will need to leave space on the inside of the box for the wires and mounting blocks. I purposefully made my spacing behind the plywood 1 1/2″ deep so that it would accommodate a 2×4″ mounting block.

Once the box was assembled I used a stain pre-treatment, followed by a layer of MinWax American Walnut. Once it was dry I applied a protectant top coat.

If you would like to read more about the installation process I have a few more details here.

There you have it folks, my own beautiful rendition of a gorgeous light fixture. Full design credit goes to the talented folks over at Rejuvenation. As much as it would be fun to simply buy these light fixtures there is something very satisfying in DIYing. Thanks so much for following along!

The post DIY Rejuvenation Light Fixture appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

If you aren’t a stranger around here, you are probably already up to speed on the recent office renovations. But if you are new here, might I suggest checking out phase one of this room makeover.

Brief Recap: I had been planning on an office makeover for some time. However plans changed. I was getting two new office mates! (My 11 and 9 year old would be joining me at home for school.) With the new developments I found myself in need of plenty of functional yet beautiful storage. I wanted to maximize every square inch of the office and thus this project was dreamed up, enjoy!

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Clamp
• Tape Measure
• Table Saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Hardware Jig
• Paint Roller/Brush/Sprayer
• Sanding Sponge

Materials Used:

• (x2) Pantry Cabinets
• (x6) Brass Hardware
• (x1) 3/4″ Plywood
• (x2) 1×2″ Common Board
• (x1) 1×6″ Common Board
• Nickel Gap Boards
• 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• Any additional trim boards to math existing molding and baseboards.
• Paint or stain of choice. (Pictured: Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Secure Cabinets Together

Again,  if you have been following the office makeover you are probably aware that I have been using pre-made cabinets. As I was brainstorming additional office storage I found myself perusing pre-made cabinet options and found a winner!  I found pantry cabinets in-stock at my local Home Depot! #winning  

First things first.  Unbox the cabinets  intended to create a built-in.  The cabinets will need to be secured together so that they are essentially one unit.   In order two align them properly, I used clamps to hold the two cabinets together while I secured them together.

  I recommend securing the two units together on the interior sides of the cabinets.  I  secured them at  8 different points,  using a  1 1/4″  wood screw. 

 After  the two units are essentially one it will need to be leveled and secured to the wall. Most homes are level,  mine is not. Ha, I needed to use several shims to make my cabinet level. Once the unit is level it can be secured to the wall. (I will  hide the gap when adding trim.) 

Mark stud placement and drive a 3″ screw through the interior back of your cabinet and into the stud behind it.  Repeat this step a minimum of 4 times per unit. 

Change Door Orientation

 Most  pre-made cabinets will  have doors that swing out in the same direction. I wanted my cabinet doors to both swing out as if it were an armoire.  In order to achieve this look,  I needed to change the orientation of one of the doors.  SOME cabinet companies anticipate this and add pre-drilled holes to accommodate a quick switch. 

Others do not, in which case you will need to transfer the measurements to the blank side and reinstall the hinges.  I did this for both top and bottom swing out doors. 

Build Upper Unit Carcass

Now we are to the fun part, building! Before you dismiss this project because of its perceived skill level, take a beat and hear me out. It’s just a box you guys! Just a box. In order to get the correct sizing you just need to follow some formulas.

WIDTH – Width of the installed cabinet – 1 1/2″= “Upper Interior Width”

DEPTH- Depth of installed cabinet – 3/4″ – 1/2″ = “Upper Side Depth

HEIGHT– This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Mine are 10′ ceilings. Measure from the top of the already installed cabinets, to the ceiling, then subtract 1.5″. This will be the height dimension.

Upper Unit Sides (x2) = height x width

Upper Unit Top and Bottom (x2) = width x depth (If additional shelves are desired cut any additional boards to the same above dimension.)

Secure the upper interior boards to both side boards using pocket holes and pocket hole screws. The top interior board will sit 4″ from the top of the side boards. This will be hidden by a trim piece. If you prefer to just have a free standing unit without trim, then disregard the 4″ drop and install flush with the ends of the side boards.

Shelves

SHELVES*- If a shelf is desired it can be added now. My preferred method is to use a pocket hole jig and drill pocket holes along the long front edge and both ends. (If the shelf is above eye level, I use pocket holes on the top of the board, if it is below eye level I drill pocket holes on the bottom of the board.) In this case I drilled pocket holes on the top of the shelf board and then secured a 1×2″ common board cut to the same length. This will reinforce the shelf and prevent from sagging. Using the pocket holes drilled on both ends secure to the interior of the cabinet carcass. The placement is personal preference. ( You can always make this and adjustable shelf if preferred.)

Construct Face Frame

After the box is assembled, the carcass will need a face frame. The face frame is comprised of 1×2″ and 1×6″ common boards. These four boards can either be attached directly to the cabinet using wood glue and a finish nailer, or you can use a pocket hole jig and secure them together on the back of both ends of the “rails”. ( See below image as a reference.)

Rail Length = Width of the base cabinet – 3″

Stile Height = This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Use the same measurement that was used when cutting the “Upper Cabinet Sides”

Cabinet Back

In order to create cohesion in my office I opted to back my open style cabinet with shiplap/ nickel gap boards. This is not necessary and a simple MDF board will do. In either situation it is a simple case of measuring the height and width of the back of your cabinet and cutting the boards to fit. I installed mine using wood glue and an 1.5″ 18. gauge nail .

Paint (Can be painted once complete.)

Painting method and order are all a matter of personal preference. I opted to spray the cabinet doors and the custom made upper unit in my shop, and painted the pantry cabinets in place. (Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Install Upper Unit

I enlisted the help of my husband to set the upper unit. It was pretty beefy with the 3/4″ ship lap backing! Assuming all dimensions were carefully taken it should fit like a glove! Once properly placed drive 1 1/4″ screws though the top interior of the pantry cabinets and into the base of the upper cabinet (or vise versa). The goal is make sure the upper unit if solidly secured to the base cabinet.

Add Hardware

Hardware is always optional, but when it comes to creating a truly custom look I think they are a must! My cabinets did not have any predrilled holes so I used the dimensions based on the hardware I selected.

When drilling hardware holes I suggest using a jig. I recently started using this one and I love it!

Add Trim Work

In my opinion, trim work is the element that turns a piece of free-standing furniture into a built-in. It just gives it this sophisticated look and I dig it! In this case

I reinstalled my baseboards and installed shoe molding around the base perimeter of my armoire. If you have any questions about installing baseboards I have a full tutorial here. 

On the top of the unit I used the same crown moulding I had through out the room. The only struggle I had was figuring out want color to paint the moulding! Throughout the room the crown moulding and the baseboards are all pure white. Well, my built-ins are Sherwin Williams “Repose Gray”, I wasn’t sure what color the trim should be. After counseling with some friends it was decided it definitely needed to match the built in unit. So, my crown moulding actually changes colors in the corners! Rest assured, it looks great and I haven’t given it a second thought since. It looks bomb.

Well, what do we think? It’s amazing isn’t it? Beautiful, functional, and fairly easy. The ultimate DIY trifecta.

But wait there is more,  I did mention it was functional right?  I made sure to add some extra charging stations so that I could have my electronics!

If you know me, you know I needed to add as much function as absolutely possible. I even added some power strips to the drawer that would serve as my kids electronics charging station. Now we always know where they are, and they go in the drawer when not in use. It is awesome!

Then of course there is the obvious storage. It holds so much stuff! Overall I call this build a complete success.

Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Convert a Cabinet Into a Built-In Armoire appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

  I recently gave my home office a makeover.  Scratch that.  I recently  converted my office into a streamlined home office/ homeschool room.  

 The biggest hurdle when designing my office was incorporating  enough desks to accommodate my kiddos and myself.   I really wanted a built-in unit but that dream seemed unattainable. Or was it ?   I dreamed up a crazy idea, an idea so crazy it JUST MIGHT WORK?! Spoiler alert:  It TOTALLY worked and I am going to show you how. 

Remove Hardware

  The first thing that was necessary when modifying the cabinet was removing the drawer and it’s accompanying hardware.  This can be  typically be accomplished using a phillips bit screwdriver/drill. 

Modifying Cabinet Dimensions (opt.)

 Now,  if you are a little OCD and want to take this project one step further then read on.  If you are perfectly happy with  height and depth of your cabinets go ahead and skip to the next step.

Adjust Depth

 First,  determine the desired depth of your cabinet and then you measure and mark your cabinet. I  set up a board that would serve as a guide to run my circular saw along.  (Remember, do not place your guide on the line you need to cut,  you need to consider the distance from  the edge of your saw plate to the saw blade itself.) 

 Using the guide and the marked line cut the first side of your cabinet using a circular saw.  (Always wear proper safety gear!)  Repeat this step on both side of your cabinet. 

Once both sides are cut,  you can flip the cabinet upside down in preparation to cut the bottom.  This is where it gets a little tricky.   The sides of the base block the path of the circular saw, so I needed to get a little creative. I had to use a smaller circular saw, but a jigsaw or something similar would work well too. 

 Using one one of the above mentioned tools will require cutting a straight line by hand.  I would highly recommend drawing a straight line to use as a guide.   Even if the line is a little crooked,  it will be fine, this will be completely hidden. 

Add Supports

Once all sides of the cabinet are cut down supports are necessary.    I used a 1×3 board cut to the exact interior dimension and then drilled pocket holes on both ends to secure them. 

 I added a support on the very top ledge of my cabinet and also  one at the base. I did leave the back of the cabinet open.  This is totally personal preference.  You can add paneling to the back if you prefer,  just take the added depth into account when you are creating countertops and installing to the wall etc. 

Adjust Height

 If  you would also like to alter the height of your cabinet,  that is an option.  Again, not necessary, but an option.   If you opt to do this,  just use the same method used to cut the sides of the cabinet.  When I cut mine down I only removed 1.5″.  I still wanted there to be a toe kick area, but the 1.5″  made a huge difference when it can to the height of the pull-out desk drawers for my kids. 

Build Drawer Box

  In order to create a pull out desk,  I needed to create a sturdy  drawer.    Never made a drawer ?  No worries, it is simple!

Finding Drawer Box Dimensions

How to find the dimensions for your drawer:

• Drawer Base Width= Opening drawer dimensions  –  1″(drawer glides) –  1  1/2″ (1×4″ box supports) 
• Drawer Base Depth = Cabinet Depth Dimension – 1″( back clearance) – 3/4″ (back 1×4″ box support)-  1 3/4″(front hinge clearance) 
• Side Box Supports=  “Drawer Base Depth” dimension +  3/4″ (back 1×4 box support) 
• Back Box Support =  “Drawer Base  Width” dimension 

After  all the necessary boards are cut, it’s time to assemble.   Using a pocket hole jig  drill pocket  holes  around the perimeter of the base. (Excluding the front ledge.)  Also drill pocket holes on both ends of the “back box support” board as well.

 Using  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws secure the “back box support” to the back of the base.  Follow-up  by securing the “side box supports”  to  both sides.  Again securing with  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. 

 Look at that!  You made a box, that wasn’t so hard now was it ?  Next  thing we need to do is make it mobile!  Let’s add some drawer glides. 

Install Drawer Front

  First mark the desired location for the hinge,  taking into consideration the drawer glides that will be installed.  Once marked,  pre-drill in the allocated spots, then use the screws  that came with the hinges to install the first side of the hinge.  Repeat t his process for both hinges that will be attached the cabinet base.  (See below image as a reference.) 

 After the hinges are secured to the cabinet base I needed to attach the to my  drawer front.  

Something to consider: Keep in mind that the drawer will need to clear the doors that sit directly below it.  Test the spacing before installing the  drawer face. 

When  attaching the drawer front I found it easiest to clamp the drawer face directly to the front of the cabinet and then mark, pre-drill, and  then fasten with a  screw.  It ensured that I would have perfect placement!  Worked like a charm. 

Install Glides

Mark Glide Placement

   Before beginning the install process,  place your drawer box in the cabinet opening and mark out a  logical location fort eh glides to be installed.  ( If  the drawer glides are installed too high or too low there is a chance your box will not fit into the opening and will be stopped by the cabinet frame.) 

Something to consider:  When selecting your glides take into account the amount of weight they can hold and their length.  As  you saw earlier I shortened my cabinet and there fore shortened  my drawer.   Select a drawer glide based on the depth of your drawer box.  ( Mine is an 18″ deep drawer box, so I selected an 18″ drawer glide. 

Attach Glide to box

When installing drawer glides. I begin by removing the drawer glide rail and secure it to the box first.    This is a fairly simple process.  Place the front of the glide so that is flush with the box.  Then using a spacer screw with glide rail in place using the screws provided with your glides.  (See below image for clarification.) 

Install Glide to Cabinet

   Alright half-way  through  the tricky part.  See that’s not so bad ?   Let’s wrap this puppy up.  All we need to do now is install the second half of the glide.   The larger piece of the glide needs to be secured to the cabinet base.  

After a few learning experiences I finally have drawer glide install down to a science and this is my favorite way to install a drawer box.  

1.)  Cut and Add Spacers-   The spacers will need to be tall enough that  your  drawer box will not hit the hinges when the drawer is pulled out on the drawer glides,  but also short enough that the drawer box doesn’t hit the top of the opening. I cut mine approximately 1″ thick and 20 long. 

Place the guides under both sides of the drawer box. 

2.) After the spacers are resting on the front drawer support (under the drawer box)  clamp or  secure  the spacer to the cabinet so that the spacer (and thereby) the box are sitting perfectly level.  Repeat this process for both spacers on either side of the drawer. 

3.) After the spacer is securely attached it is time to install the drawer glide. ( As of right now the box is resting on top of the spacers with the glides already attached to the box.)  Before we can install the glide we need to make sure the front hinged drawer has enough space to close. (The hinges  I used required 1 1/4″ from the front ledge in order to close properly.)  

Once certain of  location mark  where the back of your glide should be. Use this same measurement and mark it on the other side as well.  Once marked, slowly slide the box forward so that the glide is extending. As the box and glide extend it should holes allocated for  screws. 

4.)  When the holes are visible it is time to start screwing the glide to the  cabinet interior. (Make sure the back of your glide is still  at your pre-marked measurement.   Once you have double checked go ahead and put in screws in the available hole cut outs.  Repeat this same process on both sides of the box. 

5.)   Hard part is over! Gently push the drawer forward again. ( It is still resting on the spacers,  but the glides should not be shifting because of the first set of screws that are installed.)   As you push the drawer forward it will expose more hole cut outs,  proceed to screw in the provided screws. 

6.) Repeat  step (5) until  the glides are completely extended. (The box should be completely  pulled out at this point.) 

7.) After all the screws are in, unclamp  the spacers and pull out from under the drawer. 

8.) You did it!  It should be a perfectly level install. 

 You did,  pat yourself on the back.  You converted a drawer into a desk!  If you are interested in how I created the rest of my built in unit or the countertops make sure you check out these posts.

The post How to: Convert a Drawer into Desk appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Based on my current Instagram feed and auto-populated Pinterest  pins, I am not the only one who has functional office space on the brain!  I had been tossing around the idea of homeschooling my kids for the past few years,  then 2020 happened. It was the tiny nudge I needed to make the dive.   I still don’t know if this will be our long term plan, but it is certainly our current one. 

While I have dreamed about building my dream office for years, those plans were rerouted and put on the fast track.  I was about to enter  the  chaotic new school year and I needed organization and I needed it fast!  I was wanting built-ins but trying to accommodate  desks for the kids and it was proving to be a problem. UNTIL  I had brilliant ideas of how to have my cake and eat it too! This idea would allow me to have my beautiful dream office and still give my kids  each the designated workspace they needed!

Here is the clincher, I was nearly positive I could use pre-assembled cabinets to knock out this project even quicker, WINNING!

Gather Supplies

First thing I needed was cabinets! If you have ever been in a kitchen then you know the average size of a base cabinet. They are fairly large and getting them from the back of the store to the front and into your vehicle is a workout! I just ordered ahead and had mine picked up curbside! Wait, did you know you could do that !? You better believe it!

When I arrived at my local Home Depot I had my cabinets ready and waiting for me.

Modify Cabinets *OPTIONAL*

 The  biggest issue I had with using preassembled cabinets was the dimensions.  I like to make everything custom and the cabinets were are little deeper and taller than I would have preferred.  I was just going to have to deal with it… or did I ? 

  My brain started racing and I had an idea. An idea that required me to do some tweaking to the cabinet, so why not  modify the size of the cabinet as well?!

 If  you would like to read more about how  I modified the lower cabinet you can get all the details here. (This is a COMPLETELY optional step! You can easily  re-create this look with standard size cabinets.) 

Countertops

Something to consider before moving forward with  your built-ins is countertops. In the past I have used 3/4″ plywood as counters for my workspaces and have loved them. You can see them here:

• Craft Room
• WorkShop Cabinets
• X-Carve Station 
• Painting Work Station 
• Shop Assembly Table 

While there are several ways to create plywood counters I opted to do a stacked edge and then iron on edge banding to create a seamless look.   You can get the full  countertop tutorial here. 

I know I have said it before and I will say it again. There are always ways to accommodate different skill levels. If you are a little afraid to use a table saw and would prefer to just purchase counter tops, that is an option.

I actually checked out The Home Depot, they have a ton of in-store options, but if they don’t have exactly what you are looking for in-store, I am certain you can find it online. Not only can you find exactly what you are looking for, you can also rely on fast and free shipping on over one million items! #winning

Build Shelves / Upper Supports

Now that I had my upper and lower cabinets home, I needed to create a unified large unit that felt like a custom built-in. I needed to connect the dots! The first step would be forging a connection between both base units and their corresponding upper units.

I had an idea. I would create a shelf that would not only unify the upper and lower cabinets but it would also serve as shelves and a platform to support my upper cabinets! Win.

While this is a simple build I understand that sometimes using a new tool can be an overwhelming and daunting task. By virtue of the fact that you are here, means you are in in the right place. There are a ton of great resources online to help you learn new skills. As a safe bet I love to direct people to The Home Depot Guides . I know with full confidence that I am sending you to a credible source written by professionals for beginners.

The cabinet units are a simple build and would actually be a great beginner project. I designed this project hoping that it would be feasible for a novice learner but also present a more skilled builder options to create one-of-a kind pieces.

Things to consider:

Height and Width- The size of these shelves will vary depending on the height of your ceiling and your cabinet selections. For a size reference I have 10′ ceilings , so I designed my connecting shelf unit to be 27″ tall. I used 30″ wide cabinets, so I built my shelves to be the exact width and depth as my upper cabinets.

(Cabinets come in MANY different dimensions, which is yet another reason that this project could work for any size or space.)

Backing – I knew I wanted to use shiplap boards behind my open shelving areas. Before building I needed to take into account the 1/2″ thickness of my shiplap boards when I was building my units.

Build Upper Unit

The two towers that would frame in my desk were looking beautiful, now it was time to connect the unit together! As I said before I wanted this to have a built-in feel. In order to create this look I needed the unit to come within a few inches of the ceiling so that I could add ceiling molding and give it a true built-in feel.

I decided to make one very long unit to span the distance between the two towers. For size reference my upper unit is 25″ tall and 104″ long. It is not a small unit, but like I said, the build is a simple one and can be altered to fit any space.

Things to consider when building:

Backing: I needed to take into account the depth of my backer boards (in my case shiplap boards) when designing/building. One option would be to attach all the units directly to the wall and then paint the wall to create a unified feel. It would eliminate the need to accommodate a backing board and save some money.

Length: My unit is pretty big! I didn’t want to compromise the length of my desk. I wanted to maximize as much of the office wall as I could. This required the use of longer than standard 96″ boards being ripped and cut. (You could technically splice, fill and sand two boards together.)

If you are a little skittish about building a big unit, this is totally optional for this built in desk. In reality all you need is the two base cabinets and a desk to span the distance between them, but I have always been “extra” and I like it. We are all in different phases of life, do what works for you!

Painting

Before I brought my units inside I opted to paint them in my shop. Regardless if you are using a sprayer or rolling paint on here are my tried and true steps for painting cabinets:

• Lightly Sand (Even with brand new cabinets.)
• Roll or Spray first coat of primer OR  paint and primer. 
• Allow to dry. 
• Lightly sand with a fine grit sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another coat of paint.
• Allow Dry. 
• Lightly sand with a finish sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another  coat of paint. 

Repeat this process until you have full coverage.  Once full coverage is achieved stop!  Do not lightly sand the topcoat.  This process has always given me a beautiful smooth finish. 

 Prime, and paint all units and allow ample time for them to dry before beginning install.  If you would prefer paint in place (which  I would if I were rolling) then skip this step for now and revisit after the units are installed.

Install

Here it starts to get tricky and is a reason that I can’t give an in-depth tutorial when it comes to built-ins. All spaces are tricky and have odd quirks. For instance, our floor slopes slightly and one of our walls bows. Something to consider as you proceed. While there may be a few hiccups you need to work around in your home the basics order remains the same.

Something to consider: If you are planning on trimming out the unit to look like a built-in you will need to remove the existing base boards and potentially crown molding. (Depending on the height of your unit.)

Bring in the base cabinet with countertop installed. ( I secured my countertop from underneath, driving 1 1/4″ through cabinet supports and into the countertop.)

 Stack the previously assembled shelf on top of the countertop. I designed mine to be centered on my countertop. I then used pocket holes to secure the shelf to the countertop.    This is where you will see how close your measurements were!   The goal is to have the joints meet flush and then fill with wood filler. If  you are slightly off, no big deal.   It’s easy enough to add a small piece of scribe molding to hide any discrepancies.  

Repeat the same process for both towers.  It is at this point that I was ecstatic with the look but also… “WHOA this thing is ginormous!”. 

Next,  the connecting shelf needs to be set in place.  My husband had to help me put this behemoth in place.  Again, I paid close attention to the seams  showing at the visible end of the cabinet. 

Install Nickel Gap Board

Once the upper shelf unit is secured I started to dial in all my dimensions. I measure the distance between my two upper cabinets and then cut a 1×6″. board using the those measurements. I then installed the board at the base of the unit connecting my two lower cabinets. This will stabilize the entire unit and ensure that it is square but will also give me a board to attach my shiplap/nickel gap boards to!

     A nickel gap/shiplap board is not at all necessary for  built-ins.  In actuality it requires a little extra planning (Take into consideration the depth of the board when building the units, and it is an additional cost. But the heart wants what the heart wants.) I  had a ridiculous desire to have my boards centered in the unit. So I made my life far more complicated than it needed to be and started in the center.   I attached my nickel gap boards directly to the back of the unit using 2″ finish nails and an 18 g nail gun. 

Secure Unit to Wall

This is step is not required but suggested. Once the backing is attached I secured it to the wall. I found that the best connection points was inside the upper and lower cabinets. Before pushing the entire unit flush to the wall I took note of the stud placement so that I could use those dimensions. Using a 3″ screw I anchored the massive unit to the wall. Again, not necessary but suggested. I didn’t want to run the risk of it toppling should it be used as a jungle gym, but also I knew I would want to trim in the unit to match the existing floor and ceiling trim molding.

Install Desk

Last thing I needed to add to this built-in desk, was a desk! Depending on your preferred height install supports on both base cabinets.  The desk will span between these two supports.  

Once supports are installed place the desktop on top of the supports. Once certain of a proper fit apply an adhesive where the bottom of the desk board and the side supports meet. Then using a 1 1/4″ screw attach the 1×3 back desk support to either the wall or in my case the ship lap boards.

Finishing Touches

While my local Home Depot has a great selection of lighting, I had a very specific idea in mind when it came to the finishing touches for the space. I wanted a light fixture that was simple, and elegant. I wanted it to add to the look of the space while not being a distraction. Thus the reason I opted to remove the existing one. It was AWESOME and such a statement piece, but it felt distracting.

* Do you want to swap out a light fixture but don’t know how? Remember those Home Depot guides I mentioned earlier? They have you covered: “How to install a light fixture.” I am telling you guys, they have it all!

  It’s amazing how the little details can make a huge difference to a space. I feel that throwing in a few books and the new light fixture warm the whole office up! 

Without further ado, I give you my completely transformed office using builder grade cabinets! 

Would you ever look in the space and feel like someone just tossed some kitchen cabinets in the room?  Nope!   Using premade cabinets for this project allowed me to knock out this project in a fraction of the time and would be a project that could easily be tailored to any space or skill level.

 Thanks so much for following along with the office makeover, and stay tuned I just might have some more plans up my sleeve.  

Take Luck, 

Corey 

Sources:

• Nickel Gap Board : The Home Depot
• Upper Cabinet: The Home Depot 
• Lower Cabinets : The Home Depot 
•  Liberty Bronze Drawer Pulls :The Home Depot 
• Old- Cage Light Fixture: The Home Depot –Home Decorators Collection 
• New- Drum Light Fixture : The Home Depot 
• Wall Color-  Pure White Behr 
• Cabinet Color – Repose Gray 150% 
• Rolling Chairs- Facebook Marketplace  ( You can get something similar here.) 

The post Create a built-in Office Using Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Is this not the most beautiful accent wall you have ever seen ? Would you believe that it is made out of faux stone panels and I knocked it out in one day!?

I am not exaggerating when I say that anyone can do this! This is a very entry level DIY that looks so realistic it is insane. Another bonus? It requires very few tools and the panels are very easy to work with!

Prepping Panels

I think the trickiest part putting up the first row. I wanted the rock ledge to meet fleshly with my baseboards. The edge of these panels follows the outline of the stones. When cutting the straight edge make sure you cut all of your first row with the same dimension. They are designed to be butted up to each other and create a seamless look.

The cutting process is very simply. I map out my dimensions and used a sharpie to draw them onto the panel. Using a straight edge and a utility knife knife I cut out the desired dimensions. It usually only took me one pass with my utility blade, but if you encounter a stubborn segment, simply bend and snap along the scored line.

Adhering Panels

When applying the tiles, you are going to want to cut and then apply the panels one at a time. When doing this project I found that using DAP caulk work famously. Another option would be using a product like DAP DYNAGRIP. I have loved using this product for heavy duty projects like this SHIPLAP project. DYNAGRIP has a nearly instant hold that is adjustable.

These panels are very lightweight so I opted for a caulk that would be a strong hold but still feasibly removable should I ever opt to remove the stone.

Using a caulk gun apply DAP caulk to the back of the panels. I used the raised grout lines as a guide for applying the caulk. By doing this it ensured even adhesion without wasting caulk.

Once a the ALEX Caulk or DYNAGRIP adhesive is applied the panel can be applied to the wall. The panel will very easily stay put! If you are using DYNAGRIP this thing won’t be going anywhere and will be adjustable but will take some pressure to move it. Using caulk it will stay put but can easily be moved around until the caulk begins to set.

Due to the nature of this project I decided to tack the panel in place in one or two places on the panel. While the caulk or DYNAGRIP will easily hold the panels on the wall, I didn’t want them to shift whatsoever when I was butting the next panel up to the joint.

Like I said, work with one panel at a time. Cut to the desired locations, apply caulk or DYNAGRIP, tack in place, then repeat with the next panel.

Applying “Grout” (Spackle)

Once the panels are installed it is time to give these faux stones some character! If you recall forever ago, I created a I German smear brick wall using faux brick panels. It has held up amazingly and is a beautiful feature in our home. When I found these panels I knew exactly what to do with them, I would take a note out of my old playbook and use ALEX PLUS Spackle to achieve a faux over-grouted look.

Something to consider, spackle in and of itself is not intended to be used as a grout. I am aware. However,I have never actually seen anyone ever try to over-grout plastic wall panels . I am in unchartered territory. However, this is what I DO KNOW. I have used DAP ALEX PLUS spackle for many projects and have been amazed with it.

It has excellent adhesion, does not sink or shrink, and is extremely durable. THIS IS EXACTLY the attributes I needed for this project. I needed a product that would adhere to the surface of the panel and would not shrink as it dried. (In this case, if the product were to shrink it would pull itself away from the panel and may not stick the way I needed it to.) It also is extremely durable. These panels are made of a flimsy plastic. If you press on them, they do give a little. I needed a product that would be durable and not crack and chip if the panel was flexed.

While spackle is not specifically made for this application, it was a no brainer that I trusted ALEX PLUS to be my absolute best bet… and I was right! After quite a few flex, and scratch tests this product is holding up like a charm.

When I first started this project I was totally winging it, by the 10th panel I had my technique down to a science. The easiest way to apply the spackle was to fill a grout bag with ALEX PLUS spacke. I suggest working in sections no bigger than 2’x2′. Pipe a liberal amount of the “grout” into the joint lines between the stones.

Once a section of the stone had the spackle piped into the joints, I troweled over the spackle using a small putty knife. I used the putty knife to push the spackle completely into he joints while also spreading the excess spackle over the surrounding stones. Part of the appeal of an over-grouted stone is that is fairly low contrast and the “grout” unifies to the stones and creates a softer feel. I tried to mimic this look using the spackle.

After using a putty knife to spread out the spackle, I wanted to create some depth to the crevices.. BY definition sparkle is suppose to fill holes and create a smooth surface, so I needed to run my finger along the joints in order to create a very gentle curve to the grout line.

After the cracks are smoothed out, we are ready for the finishing touch! Using a damp terry cloth rag, I gently dabbed along the spackle to create a uniform texture. I also dabbed some of the excess spackle onto the surrounding stone. It gave it a very natural look that helped blend the contrast between the different color stones.

Just look at that finish! Can you believe that this was just a flimsy plastic panel? With just a little bit of elbow grease and creativity they now look like an old-world/tuscan villa!? However you want to catergorize this look, I just know that it is beautiful and it gave our small powder room the “wow factor”! Mission complete.

Thanks so much for following along, and a big shout out to sponsors like DAP that allow me to keep creating content so that I can share it with great folks like you!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Faux Stone Wall appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

The tricky thing about designing an R.V. is that pretty much everything needs to be practical. Everything is compact and very little space for anything other than the essential. In order to add my style to the space I had to get creative and make sure that even the small things packed a punch. This DIY upholstered headboard with leather straps was just what the master bedroom needed! It added tons of character to the space while still remaining practical . #winning

Materials Used

• 1/4″ Paneling/Underlayment
• 1x 2 common Pine Board
• 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• DAP Wood Glue
• Foam Padding
• Sharpie Marker
• Upholstery Staples
• Painters Drop Cloth (or preferred material)
• Leather Straps (Comes in more colors.)
• Brass Twist Lock Closures (Not exact but similar)
• DAP All-Purpose Adhesive Spray

Tools Recommended

• Table Saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Drill with pocket hole bit
• Nailer w/ 1/2″ nails (optional)
• Tape Measure
• Rotary Fabric Cutter
• Cutting Mat
• Rotary Cutting Straight Edge
• Upholstery Stapler
• X-Acto Knife
• Forstner Bit (Optional)

Frame

Before we diver in first determine the size headboard you need. I needed something that was custom to my R.V. so mine is a little smaller scale than I would typically build for a standard bed. Just as a point of reference, mine is 58″ x 18″.

When working in a camper/ R.V. the general premise is to keep it lightweight! This headboard would be ultra light weight, starting with the frame. To start I ripped 1×2 board in half, essentially making two square dowel rods.

Once the “dowel rods” were prepped I was ready to cut everything to size. When creating your own headboard cut a piece of 1/4″ paneling to the exact dimensions you would like your complete head board to be. Next cut the dowel rods to create a perimeter around your board.

In order to stabilize the drill pocket holes on either end the small side rails.

Using pocket hole screws secure boards to create a sturdy rectangle. (This should be the exact size of your paneling.)

Add a bead of DAP Wood Glue glue to the top of the newly constructed frame. Then flip the frame over on top of the 1/4″ wood paneling. You can either clamp it and allow the wood to cure, or you can tack it in place using a nailer for an instant hold.

Foam Padding

Once the simple frame structure is constructed we are ready to move on to the textile portion of this project! For this “upholstery” headboard I utilized a cheap foam mattress topper pad (Walmart), a painters drop cloth, (x2) leather straps (Amazon), and brass twist locks (Amazon).

Begin by unrolling the foam pad and allow it to relax for a few minutes.

Next we will prep to cut off the excess material. Using a ruler and a sharpie mark a 3″ border around the perimeter of the headboard frame.

Using a rotary cutter, straight edge and cutting mat, remove the excess material using the previously marked dimensions.

Alright, let’s move this area to a well ventilated location. I like to use DAP multi-purpose spray adhesive to give me a leg up when it coms to upholstering projects. Lightly coat the back of the foam with RapidFuse multi-purpose spray, then position the headboard frame centered on the foam and press firmly. This will keep the foam from shifting as you work and help keep it is place even after it is upholstered.

Next? Secure that sucker with ALL the staples. on a project like this I can easily use a lightweight upholstery staple.

Using the stapler secure the foam to frame along both long edges.

Creating a nice corner with foam can be a little tricky. Use the below images to see my preferred method.

Applying Fabric

Once the foam is in place we are ready to move on to the fabric. It is essentially the same process for applying the foam. To start cut your fabric so that you have an additional 4″ of fabric on all sides. (Take the width dimension and add 8, and take your length dimension and add 8. This will be the size of your piece of fabric.) Once it is cut set it aside.

Again, I like to use my DAP RapidFuse spray adhesive when upholstering. Just lightly dust the foam form with the adhesive spray. Then lightly lay your fabric on top of your cushion doing your best to keep it square. Once you are happy with the placement smooth the fabric out over the form.

Then flip over and secure the fabric to the back of the frame using the upholstery stapler. (If you have excess fabric you can easily cut it off with scissors if so desired.)

Ta-Da! Know it is time to give this bad boy some character!

Leather Straps

While a simple upholstered headboard is a classic, I was feeling the need for some pizzazz! I recently finished up the curtains in the living room and I loved the style of the leather straps. I used the look and recreated the look on a larger scale. Leather and brass!

The plan was use two leather strips to secure the upholstered headboard to the wall, while also giving it tons of character. In order to determine the length of my leather strap I used the following formula. (Height of headboard x2, + 8″) The additional 8″ will allow for an extra 4″ on each end of the strap allowing space for the brass twist lock closure.

Most clasps will come with their own set of instructions. Please consult them, but this is a basic overview. I centered my closure approximately 2″ down from the top of my strap. I used a forstner bit and an x-acto knife to form the proper size hole in the leather allowing me to install the brass closure opening.

Installing the twist lock mechanism is very simple. It is just two small incisions, then feed the metal prongs through and fan out. Easy-peasy.

Installation

Begin by marking where you would like your straps to be situated on the headboard. (Mine are placed approximately 12″ from each edge.) Next, find the middle/center of the leather strap. Using a 1/2″ screw, drive the screw through the strap and into the bottom frame of your headboard.

The headboard is designed to be extremely light weight and as such will not require much by way of install. I used 2 screws placing them slightly above closure on the back strap. I would highly recommend these go into a secure stud or utilize mollies.

Once the screws are in place you can latch the top strap to the back. This will complete the installation process while also hiding the screws!

That’s all there is to it! A simple elegant piece that is not only cheap and practical, it totally completes this space! Stay tuned for the full room reveal!

Want to see more R.V. projects? You can can check out all the progress and projects here:

• Toy Hauler Kitchen Makeover
• R.V. Curtains Tutorial
• Toy Hauler Living Area Makeover
• R.V. Reveal
• R.V. Bathroom Makeover

That about wraps it up for this project! Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post How to: Upholstered Headboard with Leather Straps appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.