If you aren’t a stranger around here, you are probably already up to speed on the recent office renovations. But if you are new here, might I suggest checking out phase one of this room makeover.

Brief Recap: I had been planning on an office makeover for some time. However plans changed. I was getting two new office mates! (My 11 and 9 year old would be joining me at home for school.) With the new developments I found myself in need of plenty of functional yet beautiful storage. I wanted to maximize every square inch of the office and thus this project was dreamed up, enjoy!

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Clamp
• Tape Measure
• Table Saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Hardware Jig
• Paint Roller/Brush/Sprayer
• Sanding Sponge

Materials Used:

• (x2) Pantry Cabinets
• (x6) Brass Hardware
• (x1) 3/4″ Plywood
• (x2) 1×2″ Common Board
• (x1) 1×6″ Common Board
• Nickel Gap Boards
• 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• Any additional trim boards to math existing molding and baseboards.
• Paint or stain of choice. (Pictured: Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Secure Cabinets Together

Again,  if you have been following the office makeover you are probably aware that I have been using pre-made cabinets. As I was brainstorming additional office storage I found myself perusing pre-made cabinet options and found a winner!  I found pantry cabinets in-stock at my local Home Depot! #winning  

First things first.  Unbox the cabinets  intended to create a built-in.  The cabinets will need to be secured together so that they are essentially one unit.   In order two align them properly, I used clamps to hold the two cabinets together while I secured them together.

  I recommend securing the two units together on the interior sides of the cabinets.  I  secured them at  8 different points,  using a  1 1/4″  wood screw. 

 After  the two units are essentially one it will need to be leveled and secured to the wall. Most homes are level,  mine is not. Ha, I needed to use several shims to make my cabinet level. Once the unit is level it can be secured to the wall. (I will  hide the gap when adding trim.) 

Mark stud placement and drive a 3″ screw through the interior back of your cabinet and into the stud behind it.  Repeat this step a minimum of 4 times per unit. 

Change Door Orientation

 Most  pre-made cabinets will  have doors that swing out in the same direction. I wanted my cabinet doors to both swing out as if it were an armoire.  In order to achieve this look,  I needed to change the orientation of one of the doors.  SOME cabinet companies anticipate this and add pre-drilled holes to accommodate a quick switch. 

Others do not, in which case you will need to transfer the measurements to the blank side and reinstall the hinges.  I did this for both top and bottom swing out doors. 

Build Upper Unit Carcass

Now we are to the fun part, building! Before you dismiss this project because of its perceived skill level, take a beat and hear me out. It’s just a box you guys! Just a box. In order to get the correct sizing you just need to follow some formulas.

WIDTH – Width of the installed cabinet – 1 1/2″= “Upper Interior Width”

DEPTH- Depth of installed cabinet – 3/4″ – 1/2″ = “Upper Side Depth

HEIGHT– This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Mine are 10′ ceilings. Measure from the top of the already installed cabinets, to the ceiling, then subtract 1.5″. This will be the height dimension.

Upper Unit Sides (x2) = height x width

Upper Unit Top and Bottom (x2) = width x depth (If additional shelves are desired cut any additional boards to the same above dimension.)

Secure the upper interior boards to both side boards using pocket holes and pocket hole screws. The top interior board will sit 4″ from the top of the side boards. This will be hidden by a trim piece. If you prefer to just have a free standing unit without trim, then disregard the 4″ drop and install flush with the ends of the side boards.

Shelves

SHELVES*- If a shelf is desired it can be added now. My preferred method is to use a pocket hole jig and drill pocket holes along the long front edge and both ends. (If the shelf is above eye level, I use pocket holes on the top of the board, if it is below eye level I drill pocket holes on the bottom of the board.) In this case I drilled pocket holes on the top of the shelf board and then secured a 1×2″ common board cut to the same length. This will reinforce the shelf and prevent from sagging. Using the pocket holes drilled on both ends secure to the interior of the cabinet carcass. The placement is personal preference. ( You can always make this and adjustable shelf if preferred.)

Construct Face Frame

After the box is assembled, the carcass will need a face frame. The face frame is comprised of 1×2″ and 1×6″ common boards. These four boards can either be attached directly to the cabinet using wood glue and a finish nailer, or you can use a pocket hole jig and secure them together on the back of both ends of the “rails”. ( See below image as a reference.)

Rail Length = Width of the base cabinet – 3″

Stile Height = This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Use the same measurement that was used when cutting the “Upper Cabinet Sides”

Cabinet Back

In order to create cohesion in my office I opted to back my open style cabinet with shiplap/ nickel gap boards. This is not necessary and a simple MDF board will do. In either situation it is a simple case of measuring the height and width of the back of your cabinet and cutting the boards to fit. I installed mine using wood glue and an 1.5″ 18. gauge nail .

Paint (Can be painted once complete.)

Painting method and order are all a matter of personal preference. I opted to spray the cabinet doors and the custom made upper unit in my shop, and painted the pantry cabinets in place. (Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Install Upper Unit

I enlisted the help of my husband to set the upper unit. It was pretty beefy with the 3/4″ ship lap backing! Assuming all dimensions were carefully taken it should fit like a glove! Once properly placed drive 1 1/4″ screws though the top interior of the pantry cabinets and into the base of the upper cabinet (or vise versa). The goal is make sure the upper unit if solidly secured to the base cabinet.

Add Hardware

Hardware is always optional, but when it comes to creating a truly custom look I think they are a must! My cabinets did not have any predrilled holes so I used the dimensions based on the hardware I selected.

When drilling hardware holes I suggest using a jig. I recently started using this one and I love it!

Add Trim Work

In my opinion, trim work is the element that turns a piece of free-standing furniture into a built-in. It just gives it this sophisticated look and I dig it! In this case

I reinstalled my baseboards and installed shoe molding around the base perimeter of my armoire. If you have any questions about installing baseboards I have a full tutorial here. 

On the top of the unit I used the same crown moulding I had through out the room. The only struggle I had was figuring out want color to paint the moulding! Throughout the room the crown moulding and the baseboards are all pure white. Well, my built-ins are Sherwin Williams “Repose Gray”, I wasn’t sure what color the trim should be. After counseling with some friends it was decided it definitely needed to match the built in unit. So, my crown moulding actually changes colors in the corners! Rest assured, it looks great and I haven’t given it a second thought since. It looks bomb.

Well, what do we think? It’s amazing isn’t it? Beautiful, functional, and fairly easy. The ultimate DIY trifecta.

But wait there is more,  I did mention it was functional right?  I made sure to add some extra charging stations so that I could have my electronics!

If you know me, you know I needed to add as much function as absolutely possible. I even added some power strips to the drawer that would serve as my kids electronics charging station. Now we always know where they are, and they go in the drawer when not in use. It is awesome!

Then of course there is the obvious storage. It holds so much stuff! Overall I call this build a complete success.

Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Convert a Cabinet Into a Built-In Armoire appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Based on my current Instagram feed and auto-populated Pinterest  pins, I am not the only one who has functional office space on the brain!  I had been tossing around the idea of homeschooling my kids for the past few years,  then 2020 happened. It was the tiny nudge I needed to make the dive.   I still don’t know if this will be our long term plan, but it is certainly our current one. 

While I have dreamed about building my dream office for years, those plans were rerouted and put on the fast track.  I was about to enter  the  chaotic new school year and I needed organization and I needed it fast!  I was wanting built-ins but trying to accommodate  desks for the kids and it was proving to be a problem. UNTIL  I had brilliant ideas of how to have my cake and eat it too! This idea would allow me to have my beautiful dream office and still give my kids  each the designated workspace they needed!

Here is the clincher, I was nearly positive I could use pre-assembled cabinets to knock out this project even quicker, WINNING!

Gather Supplies

First thing I needed was cabinets! If you have ever been in a kitchen then you know the average size of a base cabinet. They are fairly large and getting them from the back of the store to the front and into your vehicle is a workout! I just ordered ahead and had mine picked up curbside! Wait, did you know you could do that !? You better believe it!

When I arrived at my local Home Depot I had my cabinets ready and waiting for me.

Modify Cabinets *OPTIONAL*

 The  biggest issue I had with using preassembled cabinets was the dimensions.  I like to make everything custom and the cabinets were are little deeper and taller than I would have preferred.  I was just going to have to deal with it… or did I ? 

  My brain started racing and I had an idea. An idea that required me to do some tweaking to the cabinet, so why not  modify the size of the cabinet as well?!

 If  you would like to read more about how  I modified the lower cabinet you can get all the details here. (This is a COMPLETELY optional step! You can easily  re-create this look with standard size cabinets.) 

Countertops

Something to consider before moving forward with  your built-ins is countertops. In the past I have used 3/4″ plywood as counters for my workspaces and have loved them. You can see them here:

• Craft Room
• WorkShop Cabinets
• X-Carve Station 
• Painting Work Station 
• Shop Assembly Table 

While there are several ways to create plywood counters I opted to do a stacked edge and then iron on edge banding to create a seamless look.   You can get the full  countertop tutorial here. 

I know I have said it before and I will say it again. There are always ways to accommodate different skill levels. If you are a little afraid to use a table saw and would prefer to just purchase counter tops, that is an option.

I actually checked out The Home Depot, they have a ton of in-store options, but if they don’t have exactly what you are looking for in-store, I am certain you can find it online. Not only can you find exactly what you are looking for, you can also rely on fast and free shipping on over one million items! #winning

Build Shelves / Upper Supports

Now that I had my upper and lower cabinets home, I needed to create a unified large unit that felt like a custom built-in. I needed to connect the dots! The first step would be forging a connection between both base units and their corresponding upper units.

I had an idea. I would create a shelf that would not only unify the upper and lower cabinets but it would also serve as shelves and a platform to support my upper cabinets! Win.

While this is a simple build I understand that sometimes using a new tool can be an overwhelming and daunting task. By virtue of the fact that you are here, means you are in in the right place. There are a ton of great resources online to help you learn new skills. As a safe bet I love to direct people to The Home Depot Guides . I know with full confidence that I am sending you to a credible source written by professionals for beginners.

The cabinet units are a simple build and would actually be a great beginner project. I designed this project hoping that it would be feasible for a novice learner but also present a more skilled builder options to create one-of-a kind pieces.

Things to consider:

Height and Width- The size of these shelves will vary depending on the height of your ceiling and your cabinet selections. For a size reference I have 10′ ceilings , so I designed my connecting shelf unit to be 27″ tall. I used 30″ wide cabinets, so I built my shelves to be the exact width and depth as my upper cabinets.

(Cabinets come in MANY different dimensions, which is yet another reason that this project could work for any size or space.)

Backing – I knew I wanted to use shiplap boards behind my open shelving areas. Before building I needed to take into account the 1/2″ thickness of my shiplap boards when I was building my units.

Build Upper Unit

The two towers that would frame in my desk were looking beautiful, now it was time to connect the unit together! As I said before I wanted this to have a built-in feel. In order to create this look I needed the unit to come within a few inches of the ceiling so that I could add ceiling molding and give it a true built-in feel.

I decided to make one very long unit to span the distance between the two towers. For size reference my upper unit is 25″ tall and 104″ long. It is not a small unit, but like I said, the build is a simple one and can be altered to fit any space.

Things to consider when building:

Backing: I needed to take into account the depth of my backer boards (in my case shiplap boards) when designing/building. One option would be to attach all the units directly to the wall and then paint the wall to create a unified feel. It would eliminate the need to accommodate a backing board and save some money.

Length: My unit is pretty big! I didn’t want to compromise the length of my desk. I wanted to maximize as much of the office wall as I could. This required the use of longer than standard 96″ boards being ripped and cut. (You could technically splice, fill and sand two boards together.)

If you are a little skittish about building a big unit, this is totally optional for this built in desk. In reality all you need is the two base cabinets and a desk to span the distance between them, but I have always been “extra” and I like it. We are all in different phases of life, do what works for you!

Painting

Before I brought my units inside I opted to paint them in my shop. Regardless if you are using a sprayer or rolling paint on here are my tried and true steps for painting cabinets:

• Lightly Sand (Even with brand new cabinets.)
• Roll or Spray first coat of primer OR  paint and primer. 
• Allow to dry. 
• Lightly sand with a fine grit sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another coat of paint.
• Allow Dry. 
• Lightly sand with a finish sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another  coat of paint. 

Repeat this process until you have full coverage.  Once full coverage is achieved stop!  Do not lightly sand the topcoat.  This process has always given me a beautiful smooth finish. 

 Prime, and paint all units and allow ample time for them to dry before beginning install.  If you would prefer paint in place (which  I would if I were rolling) then skip this step for now and revisit after the units are installed.

Install

Here it starts to get tricky and is a reason that I can’t give an in-depth tutorial when it comes to built-ins. All spaces are tricky and have odd quirks. For instance, our floor slopes slightly and one of our walls bows. Something to consider as you proceed. While there may be a few hiccups you need to work around in your home the basics order remains the same.

Something to consider: If you are planning on trimming out the unit to look like a built-in you will need to remove the existing base boards and potentially crown molding. (Depending on the height of your unit.)

Bring in the base cabinet with countertop installed. ( I secured my countertop from underneath, driving 1 1/4″ through cabinet supports and into the countertop.)

 Stack the previously assembled shelf on top of the countertop. I designed mine to be centered on my countertop. I then used pocket holes to secure the shelf to the countertop.    This is where you will see how close your measurements were!   The goal is to have the joints meet flush and then fill with wood filler. If  you are slightly off, no big deal.   It’s easy enough to add a small piece of scribe molding to hide any discrepancies.  

Repeat the same process for both towers.  It is at this point that I was ecstatic with the look but also… “WHOA this thing is ginormous!”. 

Next,  the connecting shelf needs to be set in place.  My husband had to help me put this behemoth in place.  Again, I paid close attention to the seams  showing at the visible end of the cabinet. 

Install Nickel Gap Board

Once the upper shelf unit is secured I started to dial in all my dimensions. I measure the distance between my two upper cabinets and then cut a 1×6″. board using the those measurements. I then installed the board at the base of the unit connecting my two lower cabinets. This will stabilize the entire unit and ensure that it is square but will also give me a board to attach my shiplap/nickel gap boards to!

     A nickel gap/shiplap board is not at all necessary for  built-ins.  In actuality it requires a little extra planning (Take into consideration the depth of the board when building the units, and it is an additional cost. But the heart wants what the heart wants.) I  had a ridiculous desire to have my boards centered in the unit. So I made my life far more complicated than it needed to be and started in the center.   I attached my nickel gap boards directly to the back of the unit using 2″ finish nails and an 18 g nail gun. 

Secure Unit to Wall

This is step is not required but suggested. Once the backing is attached I secured it to the wall. I found that the best connection points was inside the upper and lower cabinets. Before pushing the entire unit flush to the wall I took note of the stud placement so that I could use those dimensions. Using a 3″ screw I anchored the massive unit to the wall. Again, not necessary but suggested. I didn’t want to run the risk of it toppling should it be used as a jungle gym, but also I knew I would want to trim in the unit to match the existing floor and ceiling trim molding.

Install Desk

Last thing I needed to add to this built-in desk, was a desk! Depending on your preferred height install supports on both base cabinets.  The desk will span between these two supports.  

Once supports are installed place the desktop on top of the supports. Once certain of a proper fit apply an adhesive where the bottom of the desk board and the side supports meet. Then using a 1 1/4″ screw attach the 1×3 back desk support to either the wall or in my case the ship lap boards.

Finishing Touches

While my local Home Depot has a great selection of lighting, I had a very specific idea in mind when it came to the finishing touches for the space. I wanted a light fixture that was simple, and elegant. I wanted it to add to the look of the space while not being a distraction. Thus the reason I opted to remove the existing one. It was AWESOME and such a statement piece, but it felt distracting.

* Do you want to swap out a light fixture but don’t know how? Remember those Home Depot guides I mentioned earlier? They have you covered: “How to install a light fixture.” I am telling you guys, they have it all!

  It’s amazing how the little details can make a huge difference to a space. I feel that throwing in a few books and the new light fixture warm the whole office up! 

Without further ado, I give you my completely transformed office using builder grade cabinets! 

Would you ever look in the space and feel like someone just tossed some kitchen cabinets in the room?  Nope!   Using premade cabinets for this project allowed me to knock out this project in a fraction of the time and would be a project that could easily be tailored to any space or skill level.

 Thanks so much for following along with the office makeover, and stay tuned I just might have some more plans up my sleeve.  

Take Luck, 

Corey 

Sources:

• Nickel Gap Board : The Home Depot
• Upper Cabinet: The Home Depot 
• Lower Cabinets : The Home Depot 
•  Liberty Bronze Drawer Pulls :The Home Depot 
• Old- Cage Light Fixture: The Home Depot –Home Decorators Collection 
• New- Drum Light Fixture : The Home Depot 
• Wall Color-  Pure White Behr 
• Cabinet Color – Repose Gray 150% 
• Rolling Chairs- Facebook Marketplace  ( You can get something similar here.) 

The post Create a built-in Office Using Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Is this not the most beautiful accent wall you have ever seen ? Would you believe that it is made out of faux stone panels and I knocked it out in one day!?

I am not exaggerating when I say that anyone can do this! This is a very entry level DIY that looks so realistic it is insane. Another bonus? It requires very few tools and the panels are very easy to work with!

Prepping Panels

I think the trickiest part putting up the first row. I wanted the rock ledge to meet fleshly with my baseboards. The edge of these panels follows the outline of the stones. When cutting the straight edge make sure you cut all of your first row with the same dimension. They are designed to be butted up to each other and create a seamless look.

The cutting process is very simply. I map out my dimensions and used a sharpie to draw them onto the panel. Using a straight edge and a utility knife knife I cut out the desired dimensions. It usually only took me one pass with my utility blade, but if you encounter a stubborn segment, simply bend and snap along the scored line.

Adhering Panels

When applying the tiles, you are going to want to cut and then apply the panels one at a time. When doing this project I found that using DAP caulk work famously. Another option would be using a product like DAP DYNAGRIP. I have loved using this product for heavy duty projects like this SHIPLAP project. DYNAGRIP has a nearly instant hold that is adjustable.

These panels are very lightweight so I opted for a caulk that would be a strong hold but still feasibly removable should I ever opt to remove the stone.

Using a caulk gun apply DAP caulk to the back of the panels. I used the raised grout lines as a guide for applying the caulk. By doing this it ensured even adhesion without wasting caulk.

Once a the ALEX Caulk or DYNAGRIP adhesive is applied the panel can be applied to the wall. The panel will very easily stay put! If you are using DYNAGRIP this thing won’t be going anywhere and will be adjustable but will take some pressure to move it. Using caulk it will stay put but can easily be moved around until the caulk begins to set.

Due to the nature of this project I decided to tack the panel in place in one or two places on the panel. While the caulk or DYNAGRIP will easily hold the panels on the wall, I didn’t want them to shift whatsoever when I was butting the next panel up to the joint.

Like I said, work with one panel at a time. Cut to the desired locations, apply caulk or DYNAGRIP, tack in place, then repeat with the next panel.

Applying “Grout” (Spackle)

Once the panels are installed it is time to give these faux stones some character! If you recall forever ago, I created a I German smear brick wall using faux brick panels. It has held up amazingly and is a beautiful feature in our home. When I found these panels I knew exactly what to do with them, I would take a note out of my old playbook and use ALEX PLUS Spackle to achieve a faux over-grouted look.

Something to consider, spackle in and of itself is not intended to be used as a grout. I am aware. However,I have never actually seen anyone ever try to over-grout plastic wall panels . I am in unchartered territory. However, this is what I DO KNOW. I have used DAP ALEX PLUS spackle for many projects and have been amazed with it.

It has excellent adhesion, does not sink or shrink, and is extremely durable. THIS IS EXACTLY the attributes I needed for this project. I needed a product that would adhere to the surface of the panel and would not shrink as it dried. (In this case, if the product were to shrink it would pull itself away from the panel and may not stick the way I needed it to.) It also is extremely durable. These panels are made of a flimsy plastic. If you press on them, they do give a little. I needed a product that would be durable and not crack and chip if the panel was flexed.

While spackle is not specifically made for this application, it was a no brainer that I trusted ALEX PLUS to be my absolute best bet… and I was right! After quite a few flex, and scratch tests this product is holding up like a charm.

When I first started this project I was totally winging it, by the 10th panel I had my technique down to a science. The easiest way to apply the spackle was to fill a grout bag with ALEX PLUS spacke. I suggest working in sections no bigger than 2’x2′. Pipe a liberal amount of the “grout” into the joint lines between the stones.

Once a section of the stone had the spackle piped into the joints, I troweled over the spackle using a small putty knife. I used the putty knife to push the spackle completely into he joints while also spreading the excess spackle over the surrounding stones. Part of the appeal of an over-grouted stone is that is fairly low contrast and the “grout” unifies to the stones and creates a softer feel. I tried to mimic this look using the spackle.

After using a putty knife to spread out the spackle, I wanted to create some depth to the crevices.. BY definition sparkle is suppose to fill holes and create a smooth surface, so I needed to run my finger along the joints in order to create a very gentle curve to the grout line.

After the cracks are smoothed out, we are ready for the finishing touch! Using a damp terry cloth rag, I gently dabbed along the spackle to create a uniform texture. I also dabbed some of the excess spackle onto the surrounding stone. It gave it a very natural look that helped blend the contrast between the different color stones.

Just look at that finish! Can you believe that this was just a flimsy plastic panel? With just a little bit of elbow grease and creativity they now look like an old-world/tuscan villa!? However you want to catergorize this look, I just know that it is beautiful and it gave our small powder room the “wow factor”! Mission complete.

Thanks so much for following along, and a big shout out to sponsors like DAP that allow me to keep creating content so that I can share it with great folks like you!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Faux Stone Wall appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

As you might recall,  I recently  gave our front porch a makeover, where I utilized the aforementioned key-less Schlage lock. (You can read all about it here.)  The new key pad was life changing, but then I teamed it up with a new doorbell and I feel like I am entering Batman’s secret layer!

Have you ever heard of “Ring”  security?  Well  if you haven’t you are in for a real treat.  They are changing the face of home security systems.  They have come up with plenty of new cameras,  but I am getting ahead of myself!   They have created  the Ring Video Doorbell Pro that allows you to see in real time who is at your front door!  What is even cooler is you can actually  TALK to someone who is at your front door!   That’s  right,  you can let the FedEx guy know that it’s alright to leave the package by the front door…  You can tell the neighbor kids that  you will be home in a few minutes, OR you can tell that creepy  guy checking out the package left by the FedEx guy to beat it!  How cool is that, it is even easy to install!

I used the Ring Video Doorbell Pro in conjunction with my existing door bell.   Everything about these products are super intuitive.   If you begin by downloading the app, it will take you through the install process step-by-step.  Within a few minutes I had the whole system wired and ready to go.   (I already had a doorbell wired, however they do have another option if you do not already have a doorbell wired. )

Once everything is wired internally  it was just a matter of installing the button on the exterior of the house. It was another simple task!   The kit comes with a fool proof template that allows you to quickly and perfectly line up your new doorbell. 

Once you have the placement marked  for the new screws,  you can either attach it directly  to your wall (for those with wood paneling) or if you are like me  you will need to pre-drill.  Again,  the folks at Ring have you covered again!  The kit comes with a masonry bit that will give you the perfect size whole to fit the accompanying mollies.   Then you just wire it up.  It is super straight forward and simple.  If you get confused at all  you just reference the app screen.  It will be walking your through ever single step. (Can I just tell you how much I LOVE that I was not constantly  referencing a manual to make sure I did it correctly!?   They have handy little videos that walk you through the entire process. 

All that is left to do is attach the doorbell and select the color for your cover plate. (It comes with 4 options!)  At this point the app will continue to walk you through the rest of the installation process.  I completed this entire process beginning to end within 15 minutes.  Seriously!  So simple. 

Haha,   I honestly  spent a majority of the rest of the afternoon playing around with the app!  I kept sending my kids outside so I could test it out.  They seriously  think that it is the coolest!  How awesome is it, that I can check to see who is at my door so I can decide whether or not I want to answer,  I mean  I can decide if I need to put on a bra. What I mean to say is…  I can greet them warmly knowing that it isn’t a serial killer.

What is even cooler is that I can have a two way chat with any visitors!  Once any guests ring the doorbell an alert pops up on my phone letting me know someone is at my door, I then have the option to see the live camera view.  At which point I can engage them in conversation through my phone or just allow them to leave!  What!?  I feel like I am  on “Meet the Jetsons”  or something.

The doorbell will actually  detect motion  for a good portion of our front yard.   You  can actually  manipulate how much of the view is subject to motion detection. Say you live in a busy neighborhood and you don’t want to be notified that there is motion at your front door,  you can actually  change settings to avoid  getting notifications all day long!

Like I said,  my doorbell actually  covers a good portion of our yard, but I was so hooked on the Ring Doorbell, that I  wanted to try out some of their other security products.   They actually have a whole variety of exterior motion sensing security cameras.    I feel  pretty safe where we live, but with my  shop being detached from the house, I kind of liked the idea of being able to see anyone that might be wandering around. So I took an hour out of my day and saved myself a lot of worrying!  Ring Spotlight Camera  

Again,  the install process for this thing was a cinch.  Like the doorbell,  it will walk you through the entire install process.

Again it comes with a easy install template and all the bits you need to install.  Just install the plate…

  Then  slip the camera mount  onto the plate.  Easy Peasy! The camera just screws into place, then you plug it in and go!  Seriously, that’s it.  The app will walk you through the setup and will allow you to make any changes.  (Including the range of motion you want detected, the sensitivity, and  how/if you want to be notified of any movement.)  How cool is that ?! 

We now have it installed over our garage.  With just this single camera,  it will detect if anyone pulls onto our street, into our driveway,  walks up to the front door, and if anyone tries to go into my shop!  I was never worried about where we lived but I do have an additional sense of security knowing that this camera will catch and record any movement! *  You  can see the live view at anytime, and get the alerts for free, but for $3 a month  they will record any movement for  three months.  We ABSOLUTELY will be taking advantage of their services. Seriously,  check out the range of view from that one little camera!  I can easily  see anyone that pulls down our road,  and obviously the driveway is completely   visible.   I also have a great view of the shop.   With the way my house is situated, I can basically  see anyone that approaches my house.  It is awesome!  (Side note: How cute is my little guy pressure washing the driveway for me, also holy crap look at how dirty it was! Eek) Bottom line, do  I love it? Absolutely!  In fact since installing it I have had  two different friends purchase  some of the Ring products because I keep on raving about them!  So if you have been considering an alarm system of any sort, might I suggest looking into the  Ring Spotlight Camera  system as an alternative. We are so in love with the system that we will also be installing them inside my shop and on the backside of our home. These smart little  guys are a total game changer! 

*I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in the Smart Campaign promotional program.  As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

The post Smart Home Integration with Ring appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Do you ever have a great idea.  An idea that will simplify your life,  but it requires a little bit of work to get there?  I feel like this is a fairly normal feeling. (However, I normally  compound that complication/work  factor by x100.) Recently  my inspiration was the new Philips Hue Dimmer Light Kit.  After playing around with them,  I had a “light bulb moment” and knew exactly  how I could best utilize them.

You see, I have these awesome “Industrial Style Sconces“  that I found on  www.homedepot.com.   They are awesome, but I didn’t have any places in my home that  was hardwired for sconces. What’s a girl to do?  (This is one of those moments, where I complicate the process a little, but the end result is worth it.) Well today I am teaming up  with The Home Depot and Philips Hue Lighting to show you just how you can fix this little problem.   Phillips Hue has some seriously innovative products, and today I am going to be showcasing one of their most affordable products , I am going to be utilizing one of their smart lights that  simplify my life!  So  read along as I show you how to convert a sconce into a plug-in lamp and also share the  greatest  hack for lamp lighting.

Tools Suggested: 

• Wire stripper/Cutter
• Screw Driver (optional)
• Drill

Supplies Used:

• Philips Hue Dimmer Kit 

• Hue White A19 LED 60W Equivalent Dimmable Smart Wireless Bulb

• Cordelia Lighting Interior Sconces 
• Extension Cords (x1 per light fixture. Make sure they are long enough to reach intended outlet.)

 Alright,  let’s  get this lighting party started!  Begin by cutting the female end off of  a small extension cord using wire cutters. Then  pull on both of the wires ( the cord consists of two wires that are connected together by the plastic casing).  Once the two wires are separated  strip the last 1/2″ of the wire casing using wire strippers.  Next wee need to identify which wire is which.  In most cases one wire is black and the other white.  However sometimes  when a wire is exposed (like with a hanging chandelier, or an extension cord)  the wire will be one solid color.  HOWEVER, normally  one of the wires  has a smooth casing and the other has a ribbed texture.  For this project I was using a wall sconce that can be purchased at The Home Depot. Because it was meant to be a wall sconce there is no place for a cord to run. So I needed to fix that little problem.  It was a quick fix,   using a drill bit I drilled a small hole in the bottom of my lamp.   It does not need to be large,  just big enough to run your decapitated extension cord through. Once the hole is drilled, feed your  wire through it.   Here is the part that I think makes people’s heart race.  There is no need to breath into a paper bag people!  You go this!  Lamps are very simple.  They have two wires and that is it!  Like we discussed earlier,   a lot of the times if you are  hard wiring a light fixture all the cords will be black and white and you just match colors.  However in this example,  we do not have the color coded option.  Instead  you are going to wire it,  ribbed to white, and smooth to black.  I just find it easier to remember “Ribbed White”.  the rest falls into place.    You simple twist the ends of  your white and ribbed wires together and then add a wing nut. (These will   more than likely come in your  sconce light packaging.)  The wing nut is threaded on the inside.  You just twist it in place.  If it is installed properly,  you should be able to tug on the wingnut and it will not come loose. If it is loose,  just try again.

Repeat this same process with the  black wire and the smooth wire. 

Then  just follow the instructions that came with your wall sconce.  (Ignoring the wiring steps obviously.)  They only difference will be that you are probably attaching the bracket to a plain wall, and not over a light junction box.  All sconce kits will vary in their application process,  just follow the mounting directions  that came with your kit. Alright, that wasn’t so bad now was it ?  Now is the easy part!

One of the trickier parts of  a sconce turned lamp, is easily accessing the power.   Because it is now a lamp,  you will need to plug it/un-plug it every time you use your new light. What’s a girl to do!?   Well I have a simple,  relatively cheap, and bonus cool points way to do this!  Phillips Hue recently released  the Philips Hue Wireless Dimmer Kit.  It contains everything you need to get started!  For this project I needed  just one kit and because I wanted one for both nightstand I purchased an additional light bulb for the second sconce/light.

  The package comes with a “switch” and a bulb.    The switch actually  can sit in a magnetic holster so it can be mounted to the wall,  or you can take it wherever is convenient for you.  The installation for this light is ridiculously easy!  So much so that I thought I was missing something!   The mounting plate  can come apart for options   when mounting.  It comes apart easily  so that you can access screw holes should you decided to mount it via screws.  But for this tutorial I want to show you how user friendly  this is! If you decide to forgo using screws, it comes with some STRONG double stick tape on the backside. All you need to do is remove the adhesive barrier strip.  Then press in place… ANYWHERE!   I am telling you, it is that easy!  You don’t have to wire a single thing!  Just press-n-go!  (Again,  if you wanted to attach using screws,  you can do that easily anywhere as well. Once you have the plate positioned where you want it,  just attached your face plate/cover to the installed base. After the plate is in place,  remove the  clear battery strip and  you can place the remote in the wall mounted cradle.  In this case I attached it in a tucked away post on my headboard because  these will be powering both  mine, and my husbands nightstand lamps.   Then you screw in your light bulb… 

That’s it.  Just plug in your lamp and start using your remote immediately!    The only exception,  is if you are using multiple light bulbs.  The additionally  purchased ones will not light up initially…

Again, the process to make it work is baffling-ly easy!  Just  stand close to the light you desire to program.  Hold the “on” button for 10 sec…  It will immediately start working.  You can repeat this process with up to 10 lights!

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any cooler…  another game changer…  they are dimm-able!  No additional programming required.  Just  push the dimmer switch and create the perfect atmosphere in seconds!  How amazing is that !?

 Alright folks,  that’s a wrap on this project!  I feel like this could be a great application for lighting over/in kids bunk beds or in poorly lit closets!  You  can bring some essential lighting, or even create some great ambiance in just a few minutes!

 Thanks so much to my sponsors, and to  you for reading along!
Take Luck,

Corey

*I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in the Smart Campaign promotional program.  As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

The post DIY Sconce Into A Lamp Using Philips Hue Dimmer Kit appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Every once in awhile I will get on Pinterest and browse for ideas. It’s not very often,  on this given day I hopped on and looked up “laundry room”. I am not going to lie all the images of Laundry Rooms that had a bigger footprint than my living room made me drool a little bit, and I DON’T EVEN LIKE LAUNDRY!?!   I had gotten it into my head that “maybe if my laundry room was a little easier on the eyes I wouldn’t mind it so much.  In addition  lack of storage space, or even the space  to turn around without tripping on oneself would be a big step towards that goal.  So,  I dreamed up a way that I could maximize my tiny space without compromising aesthetics.    I basically only  had a big enough footprint to walk in and have the washer and dryer.  So I really needed to maximize that small space where the washer and dryer would sit. I would use all the space above it, and even BELOW them!  That’s right. I found a great way to store my laundry baskets and have over head storage by building a built in laundry platform and overhead shelving.  Bonus:  It even looks amazing!

A big thanks and shout out to this posts sponsor DAP.  It is because of excellent partnerships like these that I am able to continue to provide more content at no cost to my readers.

Tools Suggested: 

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• 18 gauge Nailer
• Drill
• Level
• DAP Plastic Wood
• DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
• Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

• 2×4’s
• 1×6″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
• 3/4″ Plywood
• 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
• 4″ screws
• Foam Sanding Block
• Damp Cloth
• Caulk Gun

Build Platform Frame:

A WORD OF CAUTION:  Now,  I don’t want to intimidate you, this is actually a fairly simple project,  but  you do need to be careful.   I cannot stress enough,  that you need to know  exactly where your studs are! Laundry rooms by nature have plumbing and electrical.  All of that plumbing and electrical has to live somewhere.  Spoiler alert;  they are all located in the walls running next to those studs we are trying to locate.  Now imagine if we accidentally  put a screw though a water line?  It could  potentially  be a fairly  big pain in the *ss.  So in order to avoid that situation,  I STRESS, know where your studs are.   You can do this by using a stud finder,  lots  of homes codes require they be positioned 16″ apart, but sometimes if the wall isn’t divisible by 16″  it can be  a little less reliable.  I just urge you to take the time to locate the studs and then clearly mark them with a pencil.

Begin by determining the height of  your pedestal.  I made mine 16″ tall.  I based that measurement off of  our laundry baskets.  The goal was to be able to easily slide  all my laundry baskets under my pedestals.  I began by using a a level and drawing a line at the predetermined height.  I then continued that line  on the two adjoining walls.  Believe me,  having a washer and dryer agitating on  the top of a sloped platform  does not sound ideal.

The first board I added was the back support.  I used standard 2×4’s  for the framing process.    I measure the width of the back wall and cut  my first board. ( You can build the entire platform and install the entire platform.  I did not do this BECAUSE my walls are not all square. I wanted a perfect fit so I cut all my boards to fit in place.)  Next I secured the board to the wall.  I used (x2) 4″ screws  and drilled through the 2×4 into each pre-marked stud location. If this makes you a little ansy,  feel free to extend the length of your screw or if you want to go bunker mode  use lag screws. ( I have zero complaints using  my method,  but if you aren’t use to building and framing homes  this might seem a little light duty.)

Next we attach the side supports using the same method.

Next I measured from the front  of my side support to the other to get the front measurement. (Cut x2 of these.) Once cut go ahead and attach it to the front ends of the side supports.

Once the front support is in place,  I added my platform supports. To get this dimension, I just measure my interior platform dimension.  The spacing of these supports will vary dependent on the overall width of your space.  I would  suggest not going more that 14″  apart though.  Once you know your spacing measurement.  Mark the measurements on both your front and back support.  To attach the front board simply drive through the front support  into the platform/middle support.  I again used (x2) 4″  screws in each location.  Now to attach the back.  You have two options,  you can use a Pocket Hole Jig or you can use the rough construction method and “toenail it”.  Seeing as this would not be visible,  I took the quick and dirty approach.   You simply drive a screw through the top of your middle/platform support, at an angle towards your back support.  The trick is to drive through a decent amount of each board.  Repeat this again on the bottom of the board driving up towards the back support.  Repeat this for every support.  Not pictured but HIGHLY suggested.   After the platform is built I went through and added a second 2×4 to the front support.  Nothing special, just literally  used another 2×4 with the exact dimensions and attached it directly to the front of the front support.  This will just be a safeguard in the event  one of them ever gave out.

Add Platform:

Next it was time for the platform.  I used a nice 3/4″ plywood for my platform.   I measured  the dimensions of my  already built platform and transferred those dimensions to my plywood, and then cut using a table saw.  Now,  this next part will vary based on the placement of your washer and dryer hookups. Based on the logistics of our washer and dryer  I needed to cut out a hole that would accommodate our dryer ventilation.

It was a quick  process,  when I cut holes I use a 1/2″  drill bit and give myself a starter hole.  Then I use that hole as a starting point for using a jigsaw to cut out the circle. (Make sure you are aware of  the placement of your  2×4 supports that are running under  the platform.  It won’t do you any good have the  hole with a 2×4 in the way.  Last step,  slide your plywood back into place and using screws secure it to the platform.  This will just prevent the plywood from vibrating when the appliances are in use.

Make It Pretty!:

Next up ?  Make it pretty!  I wanted to make my platform look very polished and a little more beefy. So I added a 1×6 board to the face of my platform.  I left mine with a small lip  on the top.  My husband assures me that  it’s not necessary,  but in my mind I feel like this tiny lip could potentially  prevent a washer from vibrating right off.  Still debatable who is correct,  but I did it, and I don’t regret it.   To add the board measure the width of the from of your platform,  cut your board and screw it to it!

 Now we are to the fun part,  making it look pretty!  Next  I went through and filled all the visible screw holes using DAP Plastic Wood.  It is easy to apply.  Once dried I used a small sanding sponge to remove any excess filler.  It creates a smooth flawless surface!

Once all the holes are filled we can move on to filling any unseemly , seams… see what I did there?   I used DAP ALex caulk to fill all the seams where my platform and met the walls.  This will blend any discrepancies and  make it  look like a flawless built.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip.  Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to.

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!

Once it is all caulked you are ready to go!  DAP Alex Caulk  is paint-able within 30 mins. So,  by the time you have you paint out and prepped you will be good to go!   I wanted my platform to match my Open Shelves and my newly installed Upgraded Baseboards,  so I painted  my  platform Ultra Pure White by Behr.

 Isn’t she a beauty!?  I have all the base work done,  now comes the fun part!  I get to put all the finishing touches on the laundry room.  Make sure you check back for the reveal of this tiny Laundry Room Makeover later this week!

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Laundry Room Pedestal / Platform appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

So today I have teamed up with my friends over at DAP to bring you a basic walk through of the process.  Beginner to trim work?   NO WORRIES!  That is where DAP products come into play.  It is like an eraser for the little mistakes due either to A.) user error. Or B.) Contractor Error. (In every home I have ever lived in there are always weird discrepancies, and walls that aren’t square.  This makes it really tricky to trim out a room.  But with miracle workers like caulk, and wood filler you can easily fake it until you make it! 

Tools Suggested: 

• Pry Bar
• Rubber Mallet or Hammer
• Pliers
• Miter Saw
• 18 gauge Nailer
• DAP Plastic Wood
• DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
• Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

• 1×6″ Primed Finger Board
• Quarter Round Trim
• 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
• Foam Sanding Block
• Damp Cloth
• Caulk Gun

Before you begin:  There are a lot of different options when it comes to baseboards.  There are different materials, widths and designs to choose from.  Me?  I like a big, beefy baseboard with a very simple profile.  That being said, I couldn’t find anything I truly loved in the “baseboard”  section. So I ventured outside of the isle and found this 1×6 primed finger board.  They come in 16′ boards from The Home Depot and I love them!  They are very sturdy,  so they like to hold their shape.  They  don’t mold to the shape of a wavy wall.  WHICH I LIKE!  One of my biggest pet peeves when it comes to homes is being able to see a wall wave. I think flimsy molding only emphasizes the problem.  When I use a sturdier board,  it makes me need to shim a little here and there and correct the problem,  not call attention to it.  I then  resolve any gaps with caulk and paint.  It is amazing what a little caulk and paint can do for a seriously  crooked wall…  Okay,  I will crawl down off my soapbox now. But if you were wondering about my choice, that is my reasoning. THAT and if you want to add any wall treatments such as shiplap or board and batten this gives  you a baseboard with the width to make that feasible. 

Remove Existing Baseboards

When removing baseboards, I suggest running a utility blade along the top of the board.  As you will soon see (in the coming steps)  when  finishing baseboards you fill the gap between the wall and the baseboard with caulk.  If you cut that line you can rest assured that you will have a nice clean break. If you don’t you simply risk pulling some of the paint off the wall.  In my case I was replacing my existing baseboards with a much beefier baseboard so I was not too worried about a little pit of paint peel.

Next,  get in there and pull them off!  Don’t be afraid to be forceful.  I like to use a pry bar and hammer.  Just wedge the pry bar in-between the wall and the baseboard and give it a good solid hit with a hammer, or rubber mallet. Once you get it started, it normally  is fairly easy to pull away from the wall.

Remove Any Remaining Nails

Often times when you pull the baseboard away it will leave stubborn nails behind.  You will need to remove these before installing new baseboards.  I just run around with a basic set of pliers and pull them out before moving on.

Measure Dimensions

Now, take a deep breath.   I feel like this is where people start to get overwhelmed.  There are no secret tips,  it is just taking your time to make accurate measurements. In most  rooms you will only  be making 45 degree angle cuts.  I always measure from outside corner to outside corner. If you are in doubt always cut it a little too long, over a little too short. As my Dad  use to say “It’s a lot easier to make a board shorter than it is longer.”

Mark Measurements

Once you have your measurement transfer it to your board.

Tip: If you are cutting a board that will have a 45 degree angle cuts on both ends,  begin by cutting one end at a 45, THEN  measure and mark your board.  When marking my board  I try to always make it so that I when I’m cutting the board I can line the saw blade up with my pencil mark. 

Set Miter to 45 degree angle

If you have never  used a miter saw to make 45 degree cuts,  this is an easy step that will open the door to a lot of new project potential!  Because I am cutting boards that are 5.5″ I needed to cut my board laying flat and use the bevel option on my saw.  This simply means that I am pivoting the saw instead of pivoting the platform the saw is on . (Reference image below.)

Like I said, with the width of my baseboards  I needed to position my boards to use the bevel option. If you are using a shorter basedoard you can stand them on end.  This is a personal choice. Check Fit/Install/Repeat

This is the moment of truth!  Bring your board in and set your board in place.  If it fits nicely “well done!!!”. I like to use a 18 gauge nailer and 2″ nails to set my boards.

Go ahead and move on to the next board.  You will repeat this around the entire space.  Just take careful measurements and be aware of corners. where corners meet you will need to adjust which direction your 45 degree angle goes.

If your boards aren’t perfect, don’t sweat it!  I have been doing this for years, and  I still have ill fitting boards. Sometimes this is totally  out of your control. Many times the room or wall you are working against is not square and you would have to make really wonky cuts to make it line up properly.   So don’t sweat it,  we will cover how to fix those discrepancies in a minute.

Repeat with Quarter Round

This step may or may not be necessary for you.  As stated earlier, I had “recently” *cough cough*  replaced the flooring in this room. Because of this I was left with a 1/2″ gap all around the perimeter of my room.  This simply would not do!  In order to cover that gap I needed to install a piece of “quarter round” trim.  However if you are not doing this in conjunction to replacing floors,  this step is unnecessary. Lucky you!

Prep For Paint

Alright, now that all the baseboards, (and in some case 1/4 round trim) is installed, we are in the home stretch. Now the FUN part,  making it look pretty.  I know they may not be much to look at right now,  but with some of my  favorite products  it will look like a pro installed them.

Start by applying a small amount of DAP Plastic Wood to all  the nail holes in the trim.  This stuff is great, and has been my favorite to use thus far.  It dries quick, is sandable and paintable. LOVE IT! 

Sand

Once the filler dries do a once over with a foam sanding block.  This will remove any excess filler in the event you got a little too enthusiastic. 

Wipe Down

Once you have gone over the boards with a sanding block, and your board feels smooth you are ready to wipe them down with a damp cloth. 

Caulk

NOW we are ready for the magic-maker.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip. Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to .

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!  Ok, now take a look at the difference!  I am telling you ,  caulk is a miracle worker. As my friend Jen Woodhouse says “Try your best and then calk the rest.” Truer words my friend!

Not sold yet ?!  Look at this joint!  Seriously,  I have been doing this for a little while, and when you don’t have straight walls,  perfect joints are nearly impossible.  Look at what caulk did for this corner. 

Paint

Another thing I love about DAP Molding Caulk?  It dries fast! For an impatient DIYer such as myself this is a huge selling factor!   I want to be able to paint and get a project done fast!  I don’t want to be sitting around waiting for caulk to dry.

Alright, there you have it! In an afternoon I was able to make this laundry room look 5 x’s better. AND I only touched the baseboards!  I am telling you I have a lot in store for this space, so stay tuned because I  have teamed up with DAP and The Home Depot to make this space spectacular!

Next up?  Let’s do something about that wall of random half painted cabinets. Stay tuned! Take Luck,

 Corey

The post How to Update Baseboards appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all!  I am still here, I promise. With the Holidays at an end, I find myself having a hard time getting back into the swing of things! Regardless, I am back and I am so excited to FINALLY  bring you a long-awaited tutorial. When we moved into our home,  it was VERY builder grade.  It was a really nice home but lacked interest. So, what’s a girl to do? ADD some freaking interest!  So I have teamed up with the great folks over at DAP to bring you a home upgrade that packs a punch!

Today, I am showing you a DIY Craftsman Door Casing with classic corbels to give it a little something extra.  Seriously, there was nothing wrong with this entry before,  it was in no way an eyesore, but as soon as it was cased out it became a gorgeous feature. So,  if you are looking to add character AND value to your home,  look no further. THIS IS IT!

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How to Install DIY Craftsman Door Casing and Easy Corbels

Tools Suggested:

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• Nail Gun
• Sander
• Mallet
• Pry Bar

Supplies Used:

• Sandpaper
• DAP Alex White Caulk/ Caulk Gun
• (4) 1″ x 2″ Boards
• (9) 1″ x 6″ Boards  (read all of tutorial before purchasing supplies because some board widths are apt to change)
• (2) 1″ x 4″  Boards
• DAP DynaGrip
• DAP Rapid Fuse Wood Glue
• DAP DryDex Spackling

DIY Craftsman Door Casing – Installing the Door Casing

Step 1. Remove Baseboards

Out with the old and in with the new!  I wanted the door casing to run directly  into the floor and have the baseboard butt directly into the casing. In order to achieve this,  I had to remove the base boards around the base of the door frames.  Nothing a pry bar and a hammer can’t handle in a minute or two!

Step 2. Interior Top

Next we are ready for the interior casings. You will need to measure the interior with of the door frame.

In my case the width was 5″ wide.  So I bought a 1″x 6″ board so that I could rip it down on the table saw to be the correct size.  (You will need to do this for all three interior faces of the door frame.)

Once you have the board cut to the correct width you will need to measure and cut the correct  length.

The width of my doorway was 75″, so I cut down my newly customized board to 75″.   For good measure do a dry fit and make sure the board fits before proceeding…

If it fits we are good to go!  I slapped on a liberal amount of DynaGrip  to the back of the board.  DynaGrip is some serious stuff!  It is like having an extra set of hands! (Seriously, made life so much easier when installing faux shiplap! You can read all about it here.) 

Once it is all adhesive-d up we are ready to install.  Granted there is plenty of glue to hold it in place, I really don’t have that much patience or  arm muscle endurance to wait for glue to dry.  Therefore I reinforced with 2″ 16 gauge nails using a nailer.  Worked like a charm. 

Step 3.  Interior Sides

Once the top board is in place we are ready to move onto the sides.  Same routine as “Step 2.” but , obviously it will be on the sides.

Step 3.  Exterior Sides

Now we are ready for the exterior boards!  Again I used 1″ x 6 ”  primed fingerboard.

Here is the thing you will want to be aware of.  When installing, I offset the new boards by approximately  3/8″.  Basically  you will want the interior trim’s side exposed about 3/8″.  This  creates a nice clean looks and gives you are little wiggly room for any discrepancies.

Keep this gap in mind when you measure the length of your boards.  You will want to create that same spacing where your side board meets the (eventual) top header.

Basically if you are measuring from your floor to the inside of the top board, you will want to add another 3/8″s  to your board.  (Example:  My floor to top board measurement is 108″,  in order to create the same gap all the was around I need to cut my (new side) board at 108 AND 3/8″s.

Once you have all the math work done, install the same way you did for the other boards. Use DynaGrip , nail, yadda, yadda. 

Keep in mind I am only  showing one side of the entry in this tutorial,  make sure you do both sides of the entry,  or it will look a little funny.

Step 4. Build/Install  Header

Next the header!  I used primed 1″x 2″  finger boards (x2 for each header)  and 1″x 6″ primed finger board (x1 for each header)

In order to get the measurement for the 1″x 6″ board you will need to measure from the outsides of your side casing.  ( See image below)

The 1″x 6″ board will be the same measurement as your above measurement.

The 1″x 2″ boards will 1-1/2″ longer.  (For example my 1″x 6″  is 85″ long, I will then cut my 1″x 2″ boards at 86 1/2″)  This will allow for a 3/4″ overhang on both ends.  Simply apply a little wood glue to  the outside ends of the 1″x 6″ boards and  press the 1″ x 2″ board in place and then reinforce with a 1-1/2″ nail .

Next  install the header in the same manner  you did the other boards.  Apply DynaGrip , and then reinforce with 2″  16 gauge nails.

Again,  don’t forget to do this to both sides of the entry,  or your guests will have another reason to look at you wonky… I kid I kid.

Step 5.  Trim Out the Base

The only reason  I needed to trim out the base, is because of our newly  installed flooring.  The gap  at the base was too wide,  in most cases you will be able to butt right up to the floor with no need for trim.

DIY Craftsman Door Casing – Building and Installing the Corbels

Step 6.  Decorative Corbels (Optional)

To make the corbels, I used 1″ x 4″ Primed Finger boards.  Each corbel will need (x4) 24″ boards. (So a total of 8 if you are making 2 corbels.)

Using a table saw I cut all of my boards edges on a 45 degree angle.

  Once one side was complete, I rotated and cut a 45 degree angle on the other edge. 

 When put together these will theoretically  make a hollow rectangle.  

When assembling them I used an DAP RapidFuse instant glue. It is basically a superglue for wood and it will change your life!

Once the glue is completely set,  cut  both the ends on a 45 degree angle.  I made my corbels 24″ from long point to long point.

As a decorative touch I added 1″x 4″ boards to beef up the corbels.  

In a perfect world, all of the door frames and walls would be square.  Alas, they are not.   Because my walls are a little wonky, I needed to install my 1″x 4″ boards directly  to the door frame. Again, I glued and then reinforced with screws.

Now I was ready for the corbels/supports. I applied a little glue to the ends of the 45 degree angles, and positioned them centered on the already installed 1″x 4″ boards.  Once they were in position I “toe-nailed” (nailed them at an angle) through the ends of the angles directly into the  secured 1″x4″ boards.   Once these are installed 

DIY Craftsman Door Casing – Finishing

Step 7.  Prep for Paint

  Next I needed to prep for paint.  Time to get rid of all the unsightly holes!  To fill the topical holes I used a basic painter spackle/putty.

 Once the filler had completely dried I did a once over with a finish sander.

 Last thing I needed to do to prep for paint was caulk all the seams. The odds of all the boards meeting up PERFECTLY are slim-to-none.  So don’t beat yourself up about it,  caulk can be your best friend!  It will make any unsightly  gaps completely disappear.  Abracadabra!

DIY Craftsman Door Casing – The Paint

 Now all there is left to do is slap some paint on this sucker. I used “Ultra Pure White”  by Behr in a semi-gloss  finish.

Want to see what else I have been up to in our new home ?  These are some of my favorite new additions!

Take Luck,

Corey

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