The beginning of the school year is always a personal wake up call to me in regard to our household organization.  Nothing like 6 a.m. alarms and missing shoes to make you realize the disorder of your kid’s closet. There’s really nothing quite like a frantic hunt for matching socks and clean underwear to kick my butt in gear. I am happy to report this year I put an end to the morning madness and I am thrilled to be teaming up with DAP to bring  you my “Kids Closet Makeover”. 

*This post is sponsored by DAP and does contain affiliate links.

What I used:

Kids Closet Makeover

Alright, let’s dive in and see what we are working with. Here it is, my kids closet. As you can see it came complete with the trademark builder grade wire shelving. I utilized as much hanging space as possible, but slowly random pieces of furniture slowly migrated into the closet giving false hopes of order…

Where to begin? Time to clear everything out and really see what we are working with. After emptying the contents of the closet I was amazed how much bigger it felt when the floor was clear. *Note to self, do not line the bottom of the closet with bins and totes after this Kids Closet Makeover.*

Remove Existing Closet Shelving

Now that the closet is empty it’s time to take it one step further. I needed a blank canvas; which means the wire shelving has got to go! Removing wire shelving is a fairly straight forward process. Actually, I simply handed my 10 year old son a drill and he figured it out all on his own.

If he can do it, so can you! Contractors use all sorts of securing methods, odds are they probably use mollies. No worries, when you remove the brackets and mollies they will leave sizable holes, but no worries that is an easy fix!

Repair and Fill Holes

After all the shelves are removed it is time to repair the damages. I promised it was an easy fix and I make good on my promises. All that is needed to repair the many holes left behind is some DAP DryDex Spackling.

Rough Surfaces

I have several methods I use when filling holes. In this case I am filling holes on a very textured surface. When I have a textured surface I try to apply the spackling directly into the hole using my finger. After applying the spackling I use my finger tip to smooth out the spackling while trying to mimic the wall texture. This particular spackling is perfect for this application because it won’t shrink or crack! Added Bonus: It has a built in timer, it goes on pink and turns white when it is dry.

Smooth Surfaces

When repairing smooth surfaces I apply DryDex Sparkling more liberally, knowing that I will sand the surface to get a smooth, perfect match.

Assemble Ikea furniture (The BEST way.)

Now that everything has been removed, it is time to add more function and hopefully a little bit of aesthetic qualities. If you have been following my DIY journey then you KNOW I normally build everything. Well, today I am going to switch things up and keep you on your toes! For the kids closet makeover I opted to utilize some IKEA options. I selected the “Brimnes 3-Drawer Dresser” along with (x2) “Billy Bookcase“.

Don’t get me wrong, I I don’t have anything against IKEA. They create affordable furniture options that can fit nearly any budget, however when it comes to stability they simply aren’t as rugged as homemade. However, I have a little trick that will give these inexpensive Ikea pieces some added strength.

IKEA furniture utilizes locking bolts and wooden dowels to joint their furniture. Well, in the shop I always glue up my furniture, it only makes sense that I would give the same advantage to pre made furniture. I suggest using DAP Weldwood on all of the dowel rods and along any of the exposed MDF joints. Apart from this one added step, follow the IKEA assembly manuals as directed.

Custom Shelves

At this point we have two tall thin IKEA bookcases, a dresser and an old bookcase. All of these components by themselves are fine, but it felt a little disconnected. However, what if we were to create some simple custom shelving that would make the bookcases look like built-ins while also matching the old bookcase?! Sounds like a winning idea, right?

Cut Shelving

Let’s get started. First, I measured the depth and the length of my desired shelves. I opted to make my shelf hang about an inch past my book cases. ( I cut my shelves 13′ wide, and measured from wall-to-wall for my length dimension.)

I wanted my shelving to have a nice finished edge. In order to accomplish this I banded the front edge of my plywood. If you are interested in learning more about applying edge banding you can check out my tutorial here.

After banding the front edge I was ready for the fun part! Adding character to the space. A great way to make any furniture piece look custom is by adding some decorative molding. In this case I wanted to mimic the trim work on my existing bookcase so that it would look cohesive.

Support Closet Shelving

The first thing I needed to add was a primed 1×2″. The 1×2 would not only duplicate the trim on the bookcase it would also add support to the shelf edge. One of my favorite shop hacks is using DAP Weldwood and Dap RapidFuse in a morse code style application. The combination is remarkable. The RapidFuse holds instantly (within 30 SECONDS) and the Weldwood Wood Glue will cure and create a permanent continuous point of contact.

Add Decorative Trim

Next up? Decorative trim. I love using PVC “inside corner molding” to add a little bit interest. It is easy to work with, reasonably priced, and paint-able. Winning! Another great thing about PVC is how easy it is to install. It is flexible and in my experience doesn’t require fasteners. I have used it for many applications, and my method of choice is Alex Plus caulk. Yup, it works great as an adhesive and I seals the edges for a perfect finish!

Paint

All the walls are repaired and ready for a fresh start . All the bookcases are assembled and ready to be installed. The custom shelves are built and ready for their finish… it’s time to paint! I could have easily painted the room first, but opted to wait until all my pieces were ready so I could paint them all at the same time.

I essentially used the closet as a spray shelter to paint not only the room itself, but also my shelves, and give my old bookcase a fresh coat of paint.

Now, you may be wondering if my old book case will match my new IKEA dressers and bookcases? Valid question. I definitely wanted everything to match seamlessly and give the appearance of custom built-ins. In order to accomplish this I simply had Sherwin Williams color match my Ikea furniture. Easy peasy.

Bring In the Units

This is my favorite part, when you start to put things back together instead of tearing things apart! After the paint was dry I brought my bookcases and dresser back in and started installing. All of the IKEA furniture I purchased comes with brackets to secure the pieces to the wall.

Combine Dresser and Book Case

Do you ever have one of those ideas that makes you feel super smart. This idea just so happens to be one of mine. As I previously mentioned, I had an existing bookcase that received a makeover nearly 9 years ago. Well, that bookcase has moved all over the country and ended up in the back of my kids closet. Instead of kicking it to the curb I decided to reuse it in the kids closet makeover.

The bookcase was in good condition and a really great size. After looking around IKEA I ultimately found the Bimnes dresser that had the perfect dimensions to be a suitable base for my bookcase. When you combine the two it becomes a super functional show stopper!

After properly securing the dresser to the wall I stacked my bookcase atop the dresser. Using screws I drilled through the interior top of the dresser into the base of the bookcase. The goal is to have the bookcase permanently affixed to the top of the dresser. After screwing the two pieces together, I then practiced additional caution and secured the upper bookcase to the wall as well.

Install Shelves

Time to install those gorgeous shelves we made! I used a very basic support to hold up the shelves. If you want more details on how to install this type of shelf you can read my full tutorial here.

My biggest recommendation for this step is to hide the eyesores. In this case the screws stood out like a sore thumb(s). This is a simple fix, I used “DAP Premium Wood Filler” to quickly fill the holes. Thankfully it dries fast and doesn’t shrink allowing for sanding and painting shortly thereafter.

Unify with Caulk

After the supports are installed, and holes are filled and sanded it is time to add the shelf! The supports will create a sturdy base for the shelf, but as an added measure of precaution I also used 1 1/2″ screws to drive through the top of the shelves and into the supports below.

I truly and deeply feel that this shelf takes the random IKEA pieces and unifies them into a custom kids closet. The last thing needed to really create a custom built-in feel is CAULK. Yes, I have said it before and I will say it again, caulk is a stinking miracle worker! It is the magic eraser of the DIY world. Just a small bead of caulk will hide the most unseemly gaps.

As you may know I like to work fast pace so I always opt for “DAP’s AlexFlex”, it’s flexible with a quick dry time allowing for paint in just 30 minutes. Yes please!

Add Clothing Rods

Now that we have the framework for a beautiful closet it is time to add rods. One would think that the rods would be the most simple of tasks. In reality I spent quite a bit of time brainstorming possibilities. Clothing racks hold a lot of clothing weight not to mention the occasional weight of children competing in their own personal Olympics .

While it is ideal to secure anything that will hold significant weight into studs, sometimes that is not an option. After considering a lot of options I ultimately chose to use toggle bolts and I do NOT regret it! They were perfect for this application.

I used toggle bolts on the drywall and on the inside brackets I secured the rods directly into the “Billy Bookcases” with zero problems.

As far as rods… they come in many sizes and materials. However, if you have the option I would suggest using wood simply because they are easier to cut to size. I used metal ones which are easy to cut, but you do need to have a blade that is intended for cutting metal. (Or so it is suggested.)

Add Decorative Baskets

My last suggestion would be adding decorative baskets.  Not only will this bring in aesthetically pleasing uniformity, it will also help with organization! In the design world we lovingly  refer to this as “form meeting function”.   While the “Billy Bookcases” do provide plenty of  sectioned storage, I needed place for hats, socks, underwear etc…  Adding baskets was the perfect solution and added a ton of character to the space. 

 I found that finding baskets to fit the bookcase was a little trickier than I had hoped.  So I did a little research and tried out a few options.   Here are a few that worked well. 

•  Two-Tone Basket with Leather Detailing
• “Threshold Could Rope Basket” Target Baskets (No longer available.)
• Gray Baskets w/ Leather Detailing

Optional Additions*

Okay, okay, I promise I am almost done. I made two last minute tweaks and I’m sharing them only because I highly recommend them. if you noticed earlier the “Brimnes Dresser” has an odd-man-out glass panel on the top drawer. I didn’t love it, so I scuffed it up, primed and painted it. No big deal. The last adjustment I made was the dresser pulls. They originally came with some less than appealing white pulls. We can do better! I swapped out the white for these fun new black drawer pulls.

Enjoy Form Meeting Function

Okay, NOW it’s time. It’s time to take back the closet and HOPEFULLY regain as much peace as you possibly can during your early morning run for the bus.

Who would have ever thought that just a few pieces of IKEA furniture and a hand-me-down dresser had so much potential!

Hopefully this helps you on your DIY journey. However,  if you aren’t ready to tackle your closet just yet, make sure you pin the image below to your Pinterest boards for safe keeping!    Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey 

The post Kids Closet Makeover (Using IKEA Furniture) appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I have been on the hunt for an affordable over the garage trellis option. After searching high and low I ultimately decided a budget friendly garage trellis did not exist. Instead of wasting more time searching I put on my thinking cap and designed and built my own affordable and aesthetically pleasing over the garage trellis!

Cut Boards for Corbels

Cut all necessary boards. (Determined by the desired number of corbel/brackets.) In my case I utilized a total of three brackets to span over a 2-car garage entry.  I used to “Large” corbels for the sides, and one “Small” corbel as a center support. 

Drill Holes

I found that it was very helpful using a speed square accurately mark the hole placement.  Word to the wise, mark the placement for all the corbels at the same time.  This will ensure that the holes will all line up when ultimately run the poles through the corbels. 

*Something to consider:  Before drilling determine the best size bit for your rods.  I used inexpensive IKEA curtain rods.  These rods worked best when I used a 7/8” paddle bit to dill out the hole. 

 I opted to use a drill press; this required a lot of resituating the depth of the drill as I drilled through the board.  While it required a little work, I highly recommend using a drill press. 

If using a drill press is not possible, a drill is still an option. It will just require a very level and steady hand. 

Another Option:  Drilling straight holes through the entirety of the 5.5” board is definitely the trickiest part of this build, there are a few ways to adjust the skill level.  Using a 2×4” board as opposed to a 2×6” board will make the step easier.  It will change the overall aesthetics, but it is an option. 

Cut Chamfered Edge on Corbel Board (Optional)

 I opted to add a chamfered edge to the ends of my boards.  This is not a necessary step, I simply wanted to jazz up my corbels. You can achieve this look. By either using a router or a table saw. 

In order to create a chamfer edge, I set my table saw blade on a 45 degree angle. In order to prevent cutting my rip fence I used clamps to secure a scrap board to the fence. 

Sand and Seal Corbel Boards

Before assembling I sanded all my boards and then treated them with and exterior stain and sealer. 

I used Olympic Elite exterior Stain and Sealant in the color “American Chesnut” I used this same stain when I created my “Vertical Planter” and I loved it so I used it again.

Construct Corbels

Using 4” exterior use screws secure the horizontal board to the (soon to be wall mounted) vertical board.  Reference the PDF Plan(s) to see the designated measurements. 

Secure Corbels to Wall

 In my case I will be attaching my trellis brackets to our stucco/block home.  Seeing as I will be drilling into concrete, I’ll need to take a few extra steps. In order to secure it into masonry I will need to use a sleeve anchor.  They are basically a mollie for concrete. I am using a 4” long by 1/2” diameter sleeve anchor. 

To use these anchors, I need to drill a ½” hole to accommodate the sleeve. I drilled a hole at both the top and the bottom center of my brackets. 

BEFORE YOU GET DRILL HAPPY…  take the time to check, double-check, and triple-check the placement of the corbels.  They will need to be perfectly level in order to accommodate the poles that will run through them.  I began by installing my center bracket first and then took careful measurements to figure out the positions of the side corbels. 

Once the holes were drilled in the bracket, I positioned the bracket in the desired location.  While holding the bracket in place I used the holes pre-drilled as a template for drilling holes in the masonry. 

Drilling holes in masonry is not as scary as it sounds, so long as you use the right tools. I suggest a ½” masonry bit and a “hammer drill”.  (Pictured below is a “Rotary Hammer Drill”.) 

 I drilled a hole approximately 3” deep into the masonry. This measurement considers the length of the anchor and the depth of the bracket board

After hole is drilled into masonry, insert the anchor sleeve through the wooden bracket and into the hole drilled in the masonry.  It should be a snug fit but should slide in without the use of tools. (If necessary. use a rubber mallet to tap into place.)

Once the anchor is in place use a wrench to tighten the anchor.  The anchor will expand as you tighten the bolt ensuring that the bracket is securely attached to the wall.   

    I knew I wanted the hardware to all be black, however I also knew that painting them before tightening the bolts would scratch up the paint job. Instead, I installed all the hardware and then cut a 1” hole in a scrap piece of paneling and used it to mask off the rest of the corbel and expose the unpainted nut. I used a satin black paint and primer and it worked like a charm. 

Almost done!  In order to complete the over the garage trellis we needed to connect our  corbels. To do this I used inexpensive  curtain rods from Ikea.  I found that they worked excellent and the fact that the could extend made it a great option.  

Another great option would be using ½” electrical conduit.  I liked using the curtain rods because they came with everything I needed to add finials (end caps),  but fear not I have a tutorial  how-to add finials to electrical conduit curtain rod here. 

 Once all the rods are in place, add finials (if desired) and add a vining variety plant. I opted for Bougainvillea that I purchased a few month prior to building my over the garage trellis.   In order to help it reach the new corbels I did build a small trellis that would bridge distance between the corbels and the ground. 

 That just about wraps up yet another homerun DIY project.  I had looked into over the garage trellis options for years and never found anything affordable.  I’d like to think that I knocked this inexpensive DIY out of the park. 

 Thanks for following along. 

Take Luck, 

Corey

Make it easy to organize your projects by Pinning it !

The post Add Character by Adding a Gorgeous DIY Garage Trellis appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

If you have been around for a little while you are aware of my recent Master Bathroom Renovation. I love everything about the new bathroom setup, but admittedly I do miss my seated vanity area. As ugly as the layout use to be, I still missed sitting to do my hair and makeup. Well I had a crazy idea that would convert a cabinet into a seated vanity area. I already converted the drawer into extra make up storage . ( You can get all the details here.)

Next thing I needed to was to figure out my hot tool storage. I am lucky enough to have DAP as a great sponsor that allows me to create and share awesome content like these build plans for Hot Tool Storage!

If you would like access to complete build plans for this “Hot Tool Storage Drawer” are available here.

Prepping Materials

When using build plans I like to  begin by preparing all my boards according to the provided cut list.  (If you would like full build plans they are available here.)

I find that reading through the plans completely is always a huge help, especially when the project includes small pieces and specialty cuts.

Hot Tool Storage Assembly

When designing the Hot Tool Storage Drawer I found the actual assembly process to be very tricky! With small pieces and close quarters it makes using a drill and nail gun extremely difficult! That’s where my favorite DAP adhesives come into play!

Instead of trying to use a nail gun or use a drill and need to hide unsightly pocket holes DAP RapidFuse saved the day. It creates a super stron hold without using traditional metal fasteners. When using Rapid Fuse only a few dots! Rapid Fuse is very strong and forms an instant bond. I like to alternate dabs of it with DAP Weldwood.

The combination is remarkable. The RapidFuse holds instantly (within 30 SECONDS!) and the Welwood Wood Glue will cure and create a permanent continuous point of contact.

Can we say Dynamic Duo?!

Prep for Finish on Hot Tool Storage Drawer

Once the unit and base are assembled it’s time to make it pretty! I planned on painting this unit, and one thing I have noticed is this, paint makes most blemishes more noticeable. So, before I paint I use DAP Premium Wood Filler to fill any gaps, cracks or holes. It dries quickly and sands nicely that helps procure a perfect finish once painted.

Install Hot Tool Storage Drawer

This unit was designed to accommodate a 24″ deep cabinet, and I use every square inch of it! These plans utilize a 22″ full extension ball bearing drawer slide.

If you are new to installing drawer slides no worries! You can read more about my preferred method to install drawer slides in this project post.

The last thing necessary to install the unit is mounting the base in the cabinet. I try to make sure that there are at a minimum two fasteners with a strong hold to keep the unit from tipping out when the drawer slides are completely extended and the drawer is fully loaded.

*Extra*

I am ALL about the “Extra”. It says it right there in my tagline “I can’t leave well enough alone.” Its true. In true Sawdust 2 Stitches fashion I went over the top and added an outlet to the end cap of my unit. If you are interested in finding out more about how I included this is my build you can get more details in the Build Plans.

Well, there you have it, a functional, and dare I say BEAUTIFUL way to organize you hair accoutrements? A big shout out to my sponsors that help make this possible!

The post Hot Tool Storage/Organization Drawer appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Who needs more organization and storage in their life? While all my cupboards (for the most part) are organized, the original design plan of my home sometimes baffles me. For instance, I have this teeny tiny closet in my kitchen that has so much untapped potential, there is plenty of dead space that could be utilized! What’s a girl to do? Optimize it!  Today I am teaming up with The Home Depot to show you how I replaced my builder grade pantry closet with the custom built-in pantry of my dreams!

  Tools Suggested 

• Safety Glasses 
• Hearing Protection
• Tape Measure 
• Miter Saw/Circular Saw
• Finish Sander
• Drill/Driver
• Pocket Hole Jig 
• Table Saw or Router 
• Wood Glue 
• Clamps 
• Pry Bar 
• Hammer
• Oscillating Tool 

  Materials Used 

• Stain, or paint of choice.
• 1 ¼” Pocket Hole Screws  
• (x11) 1x3x8 Board(s) 
• (x5) ¾”  Plywood 
• (x1) ¼” Paneling/Plywood 
• (x4) 1x2x8 Boards 
• (x1) ¼” Back Panel 
• (x5) Drawer Pulls 
• (x6) ½” overlay Concealed Hinges 
• (x8) 22” Ball-bearing Drawer Slides
• Edge Banding
• 2×4
• Baseboard

Purchase Materials

While it is not a HARD project it is a LARGE one.  I have painstakingly drafted build plans and written detailed instructions to help you through the building part, and The Home Depot can help you with all the heavy lifting!  

Before we can even delve into the project, we need to first tackle our first hurdle… getting all the materials home.  In the past I would wait until “date night” when my husband and I would take a trip to The Home Depot to help me load full sheets of ¾” plywood… while Andy and I still frequent The Home Depot, I no longer HAVE to wait for Friday night to start a project!  Did you know that The Home Depot offers curbside pickup?   Yes, they will pull your order and have it ready to go and will help you load up. It’s like projects to go! You can place your order online or in their mobile app. I prefer using their app. 

Just place your order and look for an email letting you know when and where you can pick up your order.  It is that simple! 

While I definitely NEEDED curbside help with my large orders, The Home Depot also helps with the small things too.  Let’s say for instance you are in the middle of a project and run out of … screws, The Home Depot is here to help!  Did you know that many Home Depot stores offer same-day pickup?  I put in an order for screws using my app and was alerted (normally in two hours or less) that my order was ready and waiting for me at The Home Depot Lockers!

Yup, many of The Home Depot stores offer contactless pickup! It is so simple. First locate the item you need using their app or online. If you are using their app I LOVE the image product locator. Yes that’s right! Do you ever find your self in need of a part, but are not entirely positive you know what it is called? The Home Depot can help with that too!

I can safely say my locker pickup was my fastest Home Depot trip ever. I was out of my truck for about 1.5 minutes and then I was back on the road. Just another reason to love The Home Depot. 

Now that you are better equipped and ready to take on any project, big or small, let’s get started! 

If you would like complete build plans for this cabinet, they are available here:

Prep Materials-

 When working on a large project I prefer to cut and sand all of my boards before assembling. (it makes life a little easier when applying paint/stain.) 

Assemble Base Unit- 

Regardless if you are using my build plans, or creating your own cabinet begin by assembling the cabinet “carcass” (a term used by builders in reference to the body of a cabinet). 

Add Desired Shelves- 

 When designing my pantry I knew that I wanted plenty of drawer storage, along with pull out shelves. One thing to keep in mind when adding the shelves, the ply on the end of the boards will be exposed unless you either, support the ledge with a 1×2” or use edge banding on the exposed edge. I prefer the latter option. 

Build Face Frame- 

A face frame is not always necessary for cabinets, in fact many cabinets are frameless.  However due to the nature of this project I needed to use a face frame.  In most cases the face frame is flush with the outside of the cabinet, in this case the face frame was made to sit flush with the interior of the cabinet. The reason?  With the face frame hanging out over the side of the cabinet it will allow a little wiggle room when installing this in the wall.  This project will require me to cut into my drywall and this face frame will cover the cut drywall and create a flawless look. 

Assemble/Install Boxes

 The best part of replacing a closet with a pantry is the endless drawer possibilities!  With the limited entry space of a closet there was no way I could efficiently use drawers.  I LOVE drawers and I added a ton of them.  However, if drawers don’t speak to you, you can always opt for easy shelving instead.

Build/Install Doors and Drawer Fronts

Again, if you are looking for specific dimensions, I have full build plans available here.    If you love my style you can follow my build plans. However, the doors and drawers are a great way to really add your own personality to the build.  I was heavily considering swapping out my wood panels in my doors for glass, or even making map style drawer fronts.  The sky is the limit and this build can be completely catered to you and your unique style. 

Clear Out Existing Closet 

Before I can bring in the new, I had to take out the old. 

I removed all of the wire shelving and hardware.

Remove Door Frame- 

 In order to make space for the new cabinet I needed to completely remove the door, the door frame and even part of the wall.   Buckle up, this is where is gets fun!

I started by removing the door and the hinges that are secured to the door jamb.  

Once the door is removed it is time to move on to the door frame and jamb. Odds are there will be a substantial amount of caulk around the perimeter of your door.   First cut the caulk line with a utility knife, this will make the removal process much easier.  

 Using a prybar and a hammer remove the door casing and jamb.

Cut Hole

Before I started busting out walls, I needed to take careful measurements.  I obviously designed my custom pantry to fit in my allocated space, but I still needed to make sure I transferred my dimensions exactly to ensure my pantry would fit. 

After double and triple checking my dimensions, we started cutting drywall.  When cutting drywall, I prefer to use a oscillating tool. (Or in this case I let my husband handle the tools instead of the camera… this time.)

Remove Studs

 If you are ever uncertain if a stud is loadbearing or not, do not guess. Get a professional’s opinion before ripping apart your home!   In this case the 2×4’s pictured are just framing in the door and can safely be removed.

When it comes to removing studs, a good solid hammer and a few forceful hits will usually do the trick. 

 Build a Platform

  After much consideration I decided that I wanted to run my baseboard under my new cabinet.   I had considered running the cabinet all the way to the floor and create more of an armoire appearance, but I ultimately  decided that  I wanted it to look like it was completely built in to the wall.  In order to run the baseboard under the cabinet I needed to build a small platform using 2×4” boards.

Insert Pantry 

 It is now the moment of truth.  I would be lying if I said I wasn’t nervous as my husband and I brought this beast of a cabinet inside. I had already double, and triple checked my measurements, but I still held my breath as we pushed it into place.

 I cannot even begin to tell you how perfectly this thing fit.  LIKE A GLOVE. Gratefully everything went according to plan and the new custom pantry fit snuggly into its new home.

Before I started loading up the new pantry, I first ensured that it was secured in place.  Using 3½” screws I  drilled through the interior of the unit and into the stud that was directly behind it.  I repeated this step at several different anchor points. 

 Install Baseboard-

    The last thing this built-in needed was a baseboard.  As mentioned earlier, I put the pantry up on a platform  so that I could run a baseboard under the cabinet.  I simply cut a new piece of baseboard and installed in under the pantry. Eventually I will add shoe molding, caulk and paint it, but that will have to wait because I simply cannot wait to share the final reveal… 

 Can you even believe that is the same kitchen? Obviously, it added a ton of storage, but oh my goodness, it transformed the entire kitchen!  Don’t you just love it when form meets function, that’s when you know it is truly a good design. 

Ready to tackle your own project? You can do this!  There are so many other great bloggers and awesome resources like The Home Depot at your disposal. So, pick a space that could use a little more functionality and dive in!

 Thanks so much for following along. 
Take Luck,

Corey 

The post Built-in Pantry Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Christmas in 2020

I think we can all agree 2020 has been an endless parade of unknowns. As a whole we have adapted, made changes, and tried to find our new norm. As a general consensus I don’t think that all these changes have been ideal. However, I will say that it has created lots of opportunities to try new things. Now more than ever is the perfect time to dive into DIY and create one-of -a kind gift for the Holidays! Today I’m going to show you how to make a Lazy Susan that doubles as a serving tray/charcuterie board, it would be the perfect gift for anyone who loves to host!

If you are looking for more great homemade gifts be sure you check out The Home Depot for more holiday gift ideas.. They have DIY gift ideas/tutorials that are a great and inexpensive ways to personalize holiday gift giving.

Tools Suggested:

• Router (Optional)
• Tape Measure
• Pencil 
• 1/8″ Drill Bit 
• 1/4″ Drill Bit 
• Drill and Phillips Bit 
• Finish Sander
• Paint Brush (or preferred stain and sealer applicant)

Materials Used: 

• 12″ Laminated Wood Round 
• 24″ Laminated Wood Round 
• 1/4″ Dowel Rod
• (x2) Lazy Susan Turntable
• Wood Glue
• Sand Paper 
• Stain 
• Polyurethane 

Materials

While there are many different materials one could use to create a tiered Lazy Susan, I opted to use two laminate wood rounds (12″ & 24″ ) and two “Lazy Susan Turntable(s)”.

Add Decorative Flourishes(Optional)

While adding decor is not a necessary part of this project, it it fun way to add your own touch to a personalized gift. There are many options such as painting, wood burning, or carving. I opted to add a small routed groove around the perimeter of each of my circle rounds. I felt like it gave it a more custom feel. ( In order to do this I created a simple jig that pivoted from a screw in the center of my wood rounds.)

Secure Turntable to Small Circle

Find the center of the small round board, and mark screw placement.

Pre-drill the previously marked screw holes with an 1/8th ” drill bit.

Secure turntable using 1/2″ screws.

Mark and Add Dowels

The end-goal for this project is to have two turntable trays that can be used independently or stacked for a tier effect. In order to have them stack securely I needed to add little pegs to prevent the top tier from shifting on the bottom tier.

In order to create the pegs I used a 1/4″ dowel rod and cut (x4) 3/4″ pieces.

Place the second Lazy Susan Turntable centered on the top of the large wood round. Use the turntable as a template to mark the placement of the LARGER holes. Using a 1/4″ drill bit, drill 1/2″ deep holes as straight as possible.

Now it’s time to place the pegs. Add a dab of wood glue to the bottom of the pegs and firmly push into place.

If necessary use a hammer to gently tap the dowels into the holes.

Alternate Option (Mark and Add Screws)

Now, if the dowel rod idea seems a little tricky, no worries I have got you covered. (You can do this!)

The point of the dowel rods is to hold the turntable in place . We can accomplish the same principle by adding a few small headed screws (placed the same way the dowels were). I opted for the dowel rods because they can be stained and are less obtrusive should someone wish to use the large one by itself.

Whether you opt to use the peg or screw method, the results are the same. These four screws/dowels will allow you to drop the small turntable tray on top without it shifting.

Secure Turntable to Large Circle

Use the same steps used to secure the first turntable to the smaller tray to the bottom of the larger wood round.

Sand

A great way to really personalize this gift is by adding some color! Before we start staining or painting I would suggest sanding both trays with some fine sandpaper.

Stain

As I said before, the finish is a great way to really personalize this gift! You can use their favorite color or if you can recollect what wood tones they use in their kitchen that is probably a safe bet!

Seal

Because this item could potentially be used for food items make suer you check your sealants before applying. The Home Depot has a handy list of “Food Safe Finishes” if you are at all uncertain of which product to use. Seeing as I used a stain first my best bet was using a “film finish” meaning that it will seal a previously stained surface. I used WaterBased Polyurethane. The biggest thing to ensure it is food safe is allowing it to cure completely before use.

You did it! How simple was that? Just two boards and two turntables and you have an impressive DIY gift that anyone would love!

Thanks for following along and make sure you check out all the other great gift ideas on The Home Depot’s website.

The post Lazy Susan Charcuterie Board appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

  I recently gave my home office a makeover.  Scratch that.  I recently  converted my office into a streamlined home office/ homeschool room.  

 The biggest hurdle when designing my office was incorporating  enough desks to accommodate my kiddos and myself.   I really wanted a built-in unit but that dream seemed unattainable. Or was it ?   I dreamed up a crazy idea, an idea so crazy it JUST MIGHT WORK?! Spoiler alert:  It TOTALLY worked and I am going to show you how. 

Remove Hardware

  The first thing that was necessary when modifying the cabinet was removing the drawer and it’s accompanying hardware.  This can be  typically be accomplished using a phillips bit screwdriver/drill. 

Modifying Cabinet Dimensions (opt.)

 Now,  if you are a little OCD and want to take this project one step further then read on.  If you are perfectly happy with  height and depth of your cabinets go ahead and skip to the next step.

Adjust Depth

 First,  determine the desired depth of your cabinet and then you measure and mark your cabinet. I  set up a board that would serve as a guide to run my circular saw along.  (Remember, do not place your guide on the line you need to cut,  you need to consider the distance from  the edge of your saw plate to the saw blade itself.) 

 Using the guide and the marked line cut the first side of your cabinet using a circular saw.  (Always wear proper safety gear!)  Repeat this step on both side of your cabinet. 

Once both sides are cut,  you can flip the cabinet upside down in preparation to cut the bottom.  This is where it gets a little tricky.   The sides of the base block the path of the circular saw, so I needed to get a little creative. I had to use a smaller circular saw, but a jigsaw or something similar would work well too. 

 Using one one of the above mentioned tools will require cutting a straight line by hand.  I would highly recommend drawing a straight line to use as a guide.   Even if the line is a little crooked,  it will be fine, this will be completely hidden. 

Add Supports

Once all sides of the cabinet are cut down supports are necessary.    I used a 1×3 board cut to the exact interior dimension and then drilled pocket holes on both ends to secure them. 

 I added a support on the very top ledge of my cabinet and also  one at the base. I did leave the back of the cabinet open.  This is totally personal preference.  You can add paneling to the back if you prefer,  just take the added depth into account when you are creating countertops and installing to the wall etc. 

Adjust Height

 If  you would also like to alter the height of your cabinet,  that is an option.  Again, not necessary, but an option.   If you opt to do this,  just use the same method used to cut the sides of the cabinet.  When I cut mine down I only removed 1.5″.  I still wanted there to be a toe kick area, but the 1.5″  made a huge difference when it can to the height of the pull-out desk drawers for my kids. 

Build Drawer Box

  In order to create a pull out desk,  I needed to create a sturdy  drawer.    Never made a drawer ?  No worries, it is simple!

Finding Drawer Box Dimensions

How to find the dimensions for your drawer:

• Drawer Base Width= Opening drawer dimensions  –  1″(drawer glides) –  1  1/2″ (1×4″ box supports) 
• Drawer Base Depth = Cabinet Depth Dimension – 1″( back clearance) – 3/4″ (back 1×4″ box support)-  1 3/4″(front hinge clearance) 
• Side Box Supports=  “Drawer Base Depth” dimension +  3/4″ (back 1×4 box support) 
• Back Box Support =  “Drawer Base  Width” dimension 

After  all the necessary boards are cut, it’s time to assemble.   Using a pocket hole jig  drill pocket  holes  around the perimeter of the base. (Excluding the front ledge.)  Also drill pocket holes on both ends of the “back box support” board as well.

 Using  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws secure the “back box support” to the back of the base.  Follow-up  by securing the “side box supports”  to  both sides.  Again securing with  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. 

 Look at that!  You made a box, that wasn’t so hard now was it ?  Next  thing we need to do is make it mobile!  Let’s add some drawer glides. 

Install Drawer Front

  First mark the desired location for the hinge,  taking into consideration the drawer glides that will be installed.  Once marked,  pre-drill in the allocated spots, then use the screws  that came with the hinges to install the first side of the hinge.  Repeat t his process for both hinges that will be attached the cabinet base.  (See below image as a reference.) 

 After the hinges are secured to the cabinet base I needed to attach the to my  drawer front.  

Something to consider: Keep in mind that the drawer will need to clear the doors that sit directly below it.  Test the spacing before installing the  drawer face. 

When  attaching the drawer front I found it easiest to clamp the drawer face directly to the front of the cabinet and then mark, pre-drill, and  then fasten with a  screw.  It ensured that I would have perfect placement!  Worked like a charm. 

Install Glides

Mark Glide Placement

   Before beginning the install process,  place your drawer box in the cabinet opening and mark out a  logical location fort eh glides to be installed.  ( If  the drawer glides are installed too high or too low there is a chance your box will not fit into the opening and will be stopped by the cabinet frame.) 

Something to consider:  When selecting your glides take into account the amount of weight they can hold and their length.  As  you saw earlier I shortened my cabinet and there fore shortened  my drawer.   Select a drawer glide based on the depth of your drawer box.  ( Mine is an 18″ deep drawer box, so I selected an 18″ drawer glide. 

Attach Glide to box

When installing drawer glides. I begin by removing the drawer glide rail and secure it to the box first.    This is a fairly simple process.  Place the front of the glide so that is flush with the box.  Then using a spacer screw with glide rail in place using the screws provided with your glides.  (See below image for clarification.) 

Install Glide to Cabinet

   Alright half-way  through  the tricky part.  See that’s not so bad ?   Let’s wrap this puppy up.  All we need to do now is install the second half of the glide.   The larger piece of the glide needs to be secured to the cabinet base.  

After a few learning experiences I finally have drawer glide install down to a science and this is my favorite way to install a drawer box.  

1.)  Cut and Add Spacers-   The spacers will need to be tall enough that  your  drawer box will not hit the hinges when the drawer is pulled out on the drawer glides,  but also short enough that the drawer box doesn’t hit the top of the opening. I cut mine approximately 1″ thick and 20 long. 

Place the guides under both sides of the drawer box. 

2.) After the spacers are resting on the front drawer support (under the drawer box)  clamp or  secure  the spacer to the cabinet so that the spacer (and thereby) the box are sitting perfectly level.  Repeat this process for both spacers on either side of the drawer. 

3.) After the spacer is securely attached it is time to install the drawer glide. ( As of right now the box is resting on top of the spacers with the glides already attached to the box.)  Before we can install the glide we need to make sure the front hinged drawer has enough space to close. (The hinges  I used required 1 1/4″ from the front ledge in order to close properly.)  

Once certain of  location mark  where the back of your glide should be. Use this same measurement and mark it on the other side as well.  Once marked, slowly slide the box forward so that the glide is extending. As the box and glide extend it should holes allocated for  screws. 

4.)  When the holes are visible it is time to start screwing the glide to the  cabinet interior. (Make sure the back of your glide is still  at your pre-marked measurement.   Once you have double checked go ahead and put in screws in the available hole cut outs.  Repeat this same process on both sides of the box. 

5.)   Hard part is over! Gently push the drawer forward again. ( It is still resting on the spacers,  but the glides should not be shifting because of the first set of screws that are installed.)   As you push the drawer forward it will expose more hole cut outs,  proceed to screw in the provided screws. 

6.) Repeat  step (5) until  the glides are completely extended. (The box should be completely  pulled out at this point.) 

7.) After all the screws are in, unclamp  the spacers and pull out from under the drawer. 

8.) You did it!  It should be a perfectly level install. 

 You did,  pat yourself on the back.  You converted a drawer into a desk!  If you are interested in how I created the rest of my built in unit or the countertops make sure you check out these posts.

The post How to: Convert a Drawer into Desk appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Based on my current Instagram feed and auto-populated Pinterest  pins, I am not the only one who has functional office space on the brain!  I had been tossing around the idea of homeschooling my kids for the past few years,  then 2020 happened. It was the tiny nudge I needed to make the dive.   I still don’t know if this will be our long term plan, but it is certainly our current one. 

While I have dreamed about building my dream office for years, those plans were rerouted and put on the fast track.  I was about to enter  the  chaotic new school year and I needed organization and I needed it fast!  I was wanting built-ins but trying to accommodate  desks for the kids and it was proving to be a problem. UNTIL  I had brilliant ideas of how to have my cake and eat it too! This idea would allow me to have my beautiful dream office and still give my kids  each the designated workspace they needed!

Here is the clincher, I was nearly positive I could use pre-assembled cabinets to knock out this project even quicker, WINNING!

Gather Supplies

First thing I needed was cabinets! If you have ever been in a kitchen then you know the average size of a base cabinet. They are fairly large and getting them from the back of the store to the front and into your vehicle is a workout! I just ordered ahead and had mine picked up curbside! Wait, did you know you could do that !? You better believe it!

When I arrived at my local Home Depot I had my cabinets ready and waiting for me.

Modify Cabinets *OPTIONAL*

 The  biggest issue I had with using preassembled cabinets was the dimensions.  I like to make everything custom and the cabinets were are little deeper and taller than I would have preferred.  I was just going to have to deal with it… or did I ? 

  My brain started racing and I had an idea. An idea that required me to do some tweaking to the cabinet, so why not  modify the size of the cabinet as well?!

 If  you would like to read more about how  I modified the lower cabinet you can get all the details here. (This is a COMPLETELY optional step! You can easily  re-create this look with standard size cabinets.) 

Countertops

Something to consider before moving forward with  your built-ins is countertops. In the past I have used 3/4″ plywood as counters for my workspaces and have loved them. You can see them here:

• Craft Room
• WorkShop Cabinets
• X-Carve Station 
• Painting Work Station 
• Shop Assembly Table 

While there are several ways to create plywood counters I opted to do a stacked edge and then iron on edge banding to create a seamless look.   You can get the full  countertop tutorial here. 

I know I have said it before and I will say it again. There are always ways to accommodate different skill levels. If you are a little afraid to use a table saw and would prefer to just purchase counter tops, that is an option.

I actually checked out The Home Depot, they have a ton of in-store options, but if they don’t have exactly what you are looking for in-store, I am certain you can find it online. Not only can you find exactly what you are looking for, you can also rely on fast and free shipping on over one million items! #winning

Build Shelves / Upper Supports

Now that I had my upper and lower cabinets home, I needed to create a unified large unit that felt like a custom built-in. I needed to connect the dots! The first step would be forging a connection between both base units and their corresponding upper units.

I had an idea. I would create a shelf that would not only unify the upper and lower cabinets but it would also serve as shelves and a platform to support my upper cabinets! Win.

While this is a simple build I understand that sometimes using a new tool can be an overwhelming and daunting task. By virtue of the fact that you are here, means you are in in the right place. There are a ton of great resources online to help you learn new skills. As a safe bet I love to direct people to The Home Depot Guides . I know with full confidence that I am sending you to a credible source written by professionals for beginners.

The cabinet units are a simple build and would actually be a great beginner project. I designed this project hoping that it would be feasible for a novice learner but also present a more skilled builder options to create one-of-a kind pieces.

Things to consider:

Height and Width- The size of these shelves will vary depending on the height of your ceiling and your cabinet selections. For a size reference I have 10′ ceilings , so I designed my connecting shelf unit to be 27″ tall. I used 30″ wide cabinets, so I built my shelves to be the exact width and depth as my upper cabinets.

(Cabinets come in MANY different dimensions, which is yet another reason that this project could work for any size or space.)

Backing – I knew I wanted to use shiplap boards behind my open shelving areas. Before building I needed to take into account the 1/2″ thickness of my shiplap boards when I was building my units.

Build Upper Unit

The two towers that would frame in my desk were looking beautiful, now it was time to connect the unit together! As I said before I wanted this to have a built-in feel. In order to create this look I needed the unit to come within a few inches of the ceiling so that I could add ceiling molding and give it a true built-in feel.

I decided to make one very long unit to span the distance between the two towers. For size reference my upper unit is 25″ tall and 104″ long. It is not a small unit, but like I said, the build is a simple one and can be altered to fit any space.

Things to consider when building:

Backing: I needed to take into account the depth of my backer boards (in my case shiplap boards) when designing/building. One option would be to attach all the units directly to the wall and then paint the wall to create a unified feel. It would eliminate the need to accommodate a backing board and save some money.

Length: My unit is pretty big! I didn’t want to compromise the length of my desk. I wanted to maximize as much of the office wall as I could. This required the use of longer than standard 96″ boards being ripped and cut. (You could technically splice, fill and sand two boards together.)

If you are a little skittish about building a big unit, this is totally optional for this built in desk. In reality all you need is the two base cabinets and a desk to span the distance between them, but I have always been “extra” and I like it. We are all in different phases of life, do what works for you!

Painting

Before I brought my units inside I opted to paint them in my shop. Regardless if you are using a sprayer or rolling paint on here are my tried and true steps for painting cabinets:

• Lightly Sand (Even with brand new cabinets.)
• Roll or Spray first coat of primer OR  paint and primer. 
• Allow to dry. 
• Lightly sand with a fine grit sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another coat of paint.
• Allow Dry. 
• Lightly sand with a finish sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another  coat of paint. 

Repeat this process until you have full coverage.  Once full coverage is achieved stop!  Do not lightly sand the topcoat.  This process has always given me a beautiful smooth finish. 

 Prime, and paint all units and allow ample time for them to dry before beginning install.  If you would prefer paint in place (which  I would if I were rolling) then skip this step for now and revisit after the units are installed.

Install

Here it starts to get tricky and is a reason that I can’t give an in-depth tutorial when it comes to built-ins. All spaces are tricky and have odd quirks. For instance, our floor slopes slightly and one of our walls bows. Something to consider as you proceed. While there may be a few hiccups you need to work around in your home the basics order remains the same.

Something to consider: If you are planning on trimming out the unit to look like a built-in you will need to remove the existing base boards and potentially crown molding. (Depending on the height of your unit.)

Bring in the base cabinet with countertop installed. ( I secured my countertop from underneath, driving 1 1/4″ through cabinet supports and into the countertop.)

 Stack the previously assembled shelf on top of the countertop. I designed mine to be centered on my countertop. I then used pocket holes to secure the shelf to the countertop.    This is where you will see how close your measurements were!   The goal is to have the joints meet flush and then fill with wood filler. If  you are slightly off, no big deal.   It’s easy enough to add a small piece of scribe molding to hide any discrepancies.  

Repeat the same process for both towers.  It is at this point that I was ecstatic with the look but also… “WHOA this thing is ginormous!”. 

Next,  the connecting shelf needs to be set in place.  My husband had to help me put this behemoth in place.  Again, I paid close attention to the seams  showing at the visible end of the cabinet. 

Install Nickel Gap Board

Once the upper shelf unit is secured I started to dial in all my dimensions. I measure the distance between my two upper cabinets and then cut a 1×6″. board using the those measurements. I then installed the board at the base of the unit connecting my two lower cabinets. This will stabilize the entire unit and ensure that it is square but will also give me a board to attach my shiplap/nickel gap boards to!

     A nickel gap/shiplap board is not at all necessary for  built-ins.  In actuality it requires a little extra planning (Take into consideration the depth of the board when building the units, and it is an additional cost. But the heart wants what the heart wants.) I  had a ridiculous desire to have my boards centered in the unit. So I made my life far more complicated than it needed to be and started in the center.   I attached my nickel gap boards directly to the back of the unit using 2″ finish nails and an 18 g nail gun. 

Secure Unit to Wall

This is step is not required but suggested. Once the backing is attached I secured it to the wall. I found that the best connection points was inside the upper and lower cabinets. Before pushing the entire unit flush to the wall I took note of the stud placement so that I could use those dimensions. Using a 3″ screw I anchored the massive unit to the wall. Again, not necessary but suggested. I didn’t want to run the risk of it toppling should it be used as a jungle gym, but also I knew I would want to trim in the unit to match the existing floor and ceiling trim molding.

Install Desk

Last thing I needed to add to this built-in desk, was a desk! Depending on your preferred height install supports on both base cabinets.  The desk will span between these two supports.  

Once supports are installed place the desktop on top of the supports. Once certain of a proper fit apply an adhesive where the bottom of the desk board and the side supports meet. Then using a 1 1/4″ screw attach the 1×3 back desk support to either the wall or in my case the ship lap boards.

Finishing Touches

While my local Home Depot has a great selection of lighting, I had a very specific idea in mind when it came to the finishing touches for the space. I wanted a light fixture that was simple, and elegant. I wanted it to add to the look of the space while not being a distraction. Thus the reason I opted to remove the existing one. It was AWESOME and such a statement piece, but it felt distracting.

* Do you want to swap out a light fixture but don’t know how? Remember those Home Depot guides I mentioned earlier? They have you covered: “How to install a light fixture.” I am telling you guys, they have it all!

  It’s amazing how the little details can make a huge difference to a space. I feel that throwing in a few books and the new light fixture warm the whole office up! 

Without further ado, I give you my completely transformed office using builder grade cabinets! 

Would you ever look in the space and feel like someone just tossed some kitchen cabinets in the room?  Nope!   Using premade cabinets for this project allowed me to knock out this project in a fraction of the time and would be a project that could easily be tailored to any space or skill level.

 Thanks so much for following along with the office makeover, and stay tuned I just might have some more plans up my sleeve.  

Take Luck, 

Corey 

Sources:

• Nickel Gap Board : The Home Depot
• Upper Cabinet: The Home Depot 
• Lower Cabinets : The Home Depot 
•  Liberty Bronze Drawer Pulls :The Home Depot 
• Old- Cage Light Fixture: The Home Depot –Home Decorators Collection 
• New- Drum Light Fixture : The Home Depot 
• Wall Color-  Pure White Behr 
• Cabinet Color – Repose Gray 150% 
• Rolling Chairs- Facebook Marketplace  ( You can get something similar here.) 

The post Create a built-in Office Using Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I was searching for a replacement vanity for our small powder bathroom. While there were plenty of great pre-made options, I had a vision and very specific dimensions! I needed something with a small footprint, ample storage and didn’t break the bank. Well sometimes specific requirements necessitates a custom build!

If you would like to build your own I have full build plans to help!

The post Powder Room Vanity Build Plans appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.