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Wall Planter

Our back patio was a little lack-luster and needed some new life. It’s not a huge patio so whatever I added needed to have a small footprint and still pack a punch. Thus the plans for the Vertical Wall Planter were born. Enjoy!

Tools Suggested  Materials  Used 
Safety Glasses  Olympic Elite Stain and Sealer 
Hearing Protection Black Spray Paint 
Tape Measure  1 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
Miter Saw (x2) 2x 2x 6′ Board(s)
Carpenters Square  (x7) 1x 4x 8′ Board(s)
Sander  (x6) 1x 3x 8′ Board(s)
Drill/Driver (x3) 1x 6x 8′ Board(s)
Pocket Hole Jig (x1) 1x 8x 8′ Board(s)
Hack  Saw (x2) 3/4″ 10′ conduit 
1″ Forstner Bit  (x6) Vigoro 6″ Wall Mounted Planter
Pre-Drill Bit 1/8th” Landscaping Fabric 
Heavy Duty Stapler   

 

Step 1. Prep Materials

Before I get too far into the building process I prefer to prep all of my boards in advance. Using a miter saw I cut all the boards to proper length and then use an orbital sander to achieve a smooth finish.

Using a hacksaw or saw and blade intended for metal use cut ¾” metal conduit. If desired apply a lacquer based paint intended for metal.

Step 2. Build Large Crate 

Using a pocket hole jig drill pocket holes into both ends of the Crate Sides.

Using the pocket screws secure the Crate Sides to the (Crate Front and Back).  Do this for both sides, creating a rectangle. Repeat this process until (x3) rectangular structures are assembled. Repeat this process three times in order to create three Large Crates.

Step 3. Build Planter Boxes

Using a pocket hole jig drill pocket holes along the edge of the (Planter Sides). Using these holes secure the (Planter Sides) to the (Planter Front).

Using Pocket holes attach the (Planter Back) to both (Planter Sides) creating a rectangle.

Using pocket holes fasten the (Bottom Slats) to the interior base of the newly constructed (Planter Box).  

Step 4. Build Planter Ledges 

We are down to the easy stuff now folks, stick with me!  For the next component of the build we will be incorporating some small ledges. 

The (Ledges) consist of only three boards, the Shelf, the Ledge, and the Back Support. Using stainless steel pocket holes attach the Back Support to the top back of the Shelf, and secure the Ledge to the front of the Shelf for added support. Repeat this process to create a total of three Planter Ledges.

Step 5. Planter Ring Mounts

Let’s add some character to this beast!  I used six 6in.Vigoro Planter Rings for this design and I LOVE them.  The contrast of the matte black against the Olympic Elite “American Chestnut” makes my heart skip a beat!

The Planter Ring Mounts, are fairly simple component.  To create the Planter Ring Mount simply drill pocket holes along the back sides of the board (later used for installation) and screw the rings to the front of the Planter Ring Mount board.

Step 6. Posts

We are now ready to prep our Posts for the wall planter install. Before we begin installing take a few extra minutes to mark the back of the (x4) Posts with the designated dimensions for Crate, Planter, Ledge, Ring Mounts, and Rods. 

One last step before I could assemble this beast.  I needed to add holes to house the electrical conduit Bars. Using a drill, and a forstner bit I drilled 1” deep coordinating holes that would hold the Rods in place.  

Step 7. Assembly

When assembling start with one side of the structure and work your way across. I recommend using a good wood glue when assembling, in addition to the recommended fasteners.

FIRST place your Rods(conduit) into place. After the rods are in positioned in the pre-drilled holes install the “Small Planter Box” (Step 3) the“Shelf” (Step 4) and the “Planter Ring Mounts” (Step 5). 

Once the first section is installed, move onto the second section repeating the above process.

Alright, this may come as a shock, but you will need to repeat this process yet again for the last and final section of the planter.

Once all of the Bars, Planter Boxes, Ledges, and Ring Mounts as installed you flip the entire unit over fasten the Large Crates to the base the Posts using 2” exterior screws.

Step 8. Planter Prep

This wall planter project was not designed to be a free-standing piece. It is intended to be secured to a wall for further stability.  I would suggest using a minimum of 5 anchor points.  

I used the “Plant Ring Mounts” and the interior of the “Large Crates” at the base as my anchor points using 2 ½ inch, ¼” concrete screw anchors or something comparable.  The fasteners necessary will differ based on your wall material stucco, brick, stud etc. This project was not designed to be a free-standing piece. It is intended to be secured to a wall for further stability.  I would suggest using a minimum of 5 anchor points.

Toy Hauler Bathroom Makeover

*This post is paid for in part by FROGTAPE and contains affiliate links.*

Today I get to reveal the Toy Hauler Bathroom Makeover!  If you have been following along  with the process you know that everything was a very dark cherry color. Not in physically bad condition, but it was very dark and claustrophobic feeling,  AND  I’m a sucker for a project. 🙂  

While about 90% of this makeover is simple paint updates, I did add a few additions that transform this space! For instance the mirror. It was a very basic standard mirror. Nothing wrong with it, but I wanted something …something different.

I removed the existing mirror, and covered up the existing space with a clean slate of MDF… but before I could start adding any new fixtures I needed to paint.

Before I even picked up a paint brush I removed everything that would not get painted! If it could not be removed it was taped off to protect it. I ALWAYS use Frog Tape when working on projects. I don’t want to put in all that hard work to only have it turn out mediocre! No thank you.

(If you would like to read more about my painting process you can read all about it here.)

All of the walls were painted “Repose Gray” (lightened 50%) by Sherwin Williams. The upper cabinets are “Ultra Pure White” by Behr , and the lower cabinets are “Peppercorn” by Sherwin Williams.

I was finished painting all the walls, cabinets, and doors, but I didn’t stop there! The shower and the sink were looking pretty yellow in comparison to the fresh white paint. So what is a girl to do? Paint it naturally.

I used Rust-Oleum’s Tub & Tile to bring this shower and the bathroom sink back to life! If you recall I actually used this on our first R.V. makeover and it worked like a charm.

Our First Camper Makeover

It goes on fairly easily, and from my experience has held up great! (If you want to see more details check out my Instagram Story Highlights.)

A word to the wise, if you are working on an expedited project and you want to move on to the next layer of paint sooner rather than later, then make sure you try Frog Tape’s “Yellow” tape. It is made for delicate surfaces like newly painted walls. 🙂

Once EVERYTHING, and I do mean everything was painted I started to install some new pieces, like this mirror… ( They sold out of this exact one, but here is a link for something very similar.) I re-installed the freshly painted sink, added a new updated faucet and added door pulls to add some pizzaz, but that is about it!

Isn’t it amazing what a paint and a some elbow grease can do! ?

Just look at this before and after ?!

While the paint was absolutely necessary to achieve this update, I honestly think the mirror steals the show! (In case you are wondering, we have taken the R.V. out several times and have had ZERO issues having a pivot mirror. 🙂

Alright one more “before and after”. While it might not be the show stopper, we did replace the toilet, and by “we” I mean my husband. I can do some plumbing, but the reason we replaced the toilet is because it made me gag. What can I say, I am a wimp when it comes to handling a previously owned toilet. 🙂 The new toilet, fresh paint, towel hooks, and a toilet paper holder was a vast improvement for this space.

Well folks, that about wraps this project up! I am happy to report, that in the process of the makeover we have taken our family on several small outings and I can easily say the Toy Hauler is the BEST investment we could have made in our family. 🙂 It is our thing. Our escape from the world, it’s time we get with just our family uninterrupted and we LOVE it!

Source List

Thanks so much for joining me on this makeover process. In case you missed it you can see all the other spaces in the links below!

Toy Hauler Headboard Tutorial How to: Upholstered Headboard with Leather Straps
Toy Hauler Bedroom Makeover
Toy Hauler/R.V. Kitchen Makeover
How to: R.V. Curtains
Toy Hauler Living Area Toy Hauler/R.V. Makeover Sofa

Toy Hauler Bedroom Makeover

 Looking back at these pictures of the Toy Hauler makes me realize I barely remember what it use to look like!  The toy hauler bedroom had such a drastic makeover in such a short amount of time that I barely even recognize it! If you have been following along with the process on Instagram stories (Don’t worry if you have questions  I have a lot more details saved to my story “highlights.) 

Here it is in all of it’s original glory.  If you have been following along,  you are well aware of the smell that came with the new (to us) R.V.  There was a serious odor  that seemed to permeate into every fiber of this toy hauler.  While it appears to be in  fairly good condition,  I knew I would need to give everything a fresh coat of paint and anything porous would need to be replaced. So I “leaned in” and determined to “Go big, or go home!”

  I was already gutting most of camper due to the smell, so while I was at it I made this space EXACTLY what I wanted.  I removed the upper cabinets above the bed. While I was at it, I gave the bed bas a new look.   I was not loving the rounded base,  so I gave it a bit of a facelift before reinstalling. 

 I had a vision of planking the back wall so that it would carry the style of the bed base  up the back wall.  Not only would this be my statement wall it also did a great job of hiding all the unsightly nail and screw holes from the preexisting upper cabinets. 

 Once all my updates were made I primed every square inch of this space. Not only is this a vital part of the painting process, it can also help block odors!  If you would like to learn more about the process I use when painting an R.V.  you can get all the details here. 

 I painted the walls with “Repose Gray” by Sherwin Williams (lightened 50%). Once all the walls were painted I painted the bed base and the accent wall. 

 The  planked wall and the bed base were both painted “Peppercorn” by Sherwin Williams.

 This space still needed a few things…   I built my own custom nightstands and  added fun inexpensive  sconce lighting to add some character. 

 I whipped together some curtains  that were not only practical but added to the ambiance of the space!  You can read all about them here. 

Last but certainly not least. I finished this space by creating a cheap headboard that would tie the whole space together.  You can read all about it here. 

 That about bring us up to speed on all the major items in the space. So are you ready to see what it looks like when you bring them all together?   Yeah you are! 

Drum roll please…

Ta-da!  Do you even recognize it?  Is it a little hard to remember what it even looked like before? 

 I will admit I was a little nervous to paint such a large wall such a dark color in this small space, but it totally paid off! I was terrified it would feel like a cave, but it actually feels so light and airy in there. 

 This toy hauler bedroom makeover is hands down my favorite part of the camper. My husband and I have deemed the Toy Hauler the best investment we can make in our family.  It allows us to easily escape to our own little paradise without a lot of planning.  We love our time away as a family and it is such an added bonus to love being in the space. It is our own private  getaway. 

If you are looking for more great camper renovation ideas, make sure you check out the rest of the toy hauler makeover, as well as our first camper makeover below. 

 That about wraps up this  part of the toy hauler bedroom makeover.  If you are wanting to see more of the process make sure you check out all the “Toy Hauler” stories saved to my Instagram Highlights. 

 Thanks so much for following along!

           Take Luck, 

                                  Corey 

  • Leather Throw Pillows- Amazon
  • Blue Lumbar Pillow- Target (no longer available)
  • Light Sconces- Amazon
  • Khaki Comforter- Target
  • Blue and Gold Blanket- Target (no longer available)
  • Headboard (Tutorial Here)
  • Picture Frame- Target
  • Wall Color- Repose Gray by Sherwin Williams (Lightened 50%)
  • Shiplap/Nightstands Color- Peppercorn by Sherwin Williams
  • Flooring- NuCore “Morel”

How to: Upholstered Headboard with Leather Straps

*This post is sponsored by DAP and contains affiliate links*

The tricky thing about designing an R.V. is that pretty much everything needs to be practical. Everything is compact and very little space for anything other than the essential. In order to add my style to the space I had to get creative and make sure that even the small things packed a punch. This DIY upholstered headboard with leather straps was just what the master bedroom needed! It added tons of character to the space while still remaining practical . #winning

Materials Used

  • 1/4″ Paneling/Underlayment
  • 1x 2 common Pine Board
  • 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • DAP Wood Glue
  • Foam Padding
  • Sharpie Marker
  • Upholstery Staples
  • Painters Drop Cloth (or preferred material)
  • Leather Straps (Comes in more colors.)
  • Brass Twist Lock Closures (Not exact but similar)
  • DAP All-Purpose Adhesive Spray

Tools Recommended

  • Table Saw
  • Pocket Hole Jig
  • Drill with pocket hole bit
  • Nailer w/ 1/2″ nails (optional)
  • Tape Measure
  • Rotary Fabric Cutter
  • Cutting Mat
  • Rotary Cutting Straight Edge
  • Upholstery Stapler
  • X-Acto Knife
  • Forstner Bit (Optional)

Frame

Before we diver in first determine the size headboard you need. I needed something that was custom to my R.V. so mine is a little smaller scale than I would typically build for a standard bed. Just as a point of reference, mine is 58″ x 18″.

When working in a camper/ R.V. the general premise is to keep it lightweight! This headboard would be ultra light weight, starting with the frame. To start I ripped 1×2 board in half, essentially making two square dowel rods.

Once the “dowel rods” were prepped I was ready to cut everything to size. When creating your own headboard cut a piece of 1/4″ paneling to the exact dimensions you would like your complete head board to be. Next cut the dowel rods to create a perimeter around your board.

In order to stabilize the drill pocket holes on either end the small side rails.

Using pocket hole screws secure boards to create a sturdy rectangle. (This should be the exact size of your paneling.)

Add a bead of DAP Wood Glue glue to the top of the newly constructed frame. Then flip the frame over on top of the 1/4″ wood paneling. You can either clamp it and allow the wood to cure, or you can tack it in place using a nailer for an instant hold.

Foam Padding

Once the simple frame structure is constructed we are ready to move on to the textile portion of this project! For this “upholstery” headboard I utilized a cheap foam mattress topper pad (Walmart), a painters drop cloth, (x2) leather straps (Amazon), and brass twist locks (Amazon).

Begin by unrolling the foam pad and allow it to relax for a few minutes.

Next we will prep to cut off the excess material. Using a ruler and a sharpie mark a 3″ border around the perimeter of the headboard frame.

Using a rotary cutter, straight edge and cutting mat, remove the excess material using the previously marked dimensions.

Alright, let’s move this area to a well ventilated location. I like to use DAP multi-purpose spray adhesive to give me a leg up when it coms to upholstering projects. Lightly coat the back of the foam with RapidFuse multi-purpose spray, then position the headboard frame centered on the foam and press firmly. This will keep the foam from shifting as you work and help keep it is place even after it is upholstered.

Next? Secure that sucker with ALL the staples. on a project like this I can easily use a lightweight upholstery staple.

Using the stapler secure the foam to frame along both long edges.

Creating a nice corner with foam can be a little tricky. Use the below images to see my preferred method.

Applying Fabric

Once the foam is in place we are ready to move on to the fabric. It is essentially the same process for applying the foam. To start cut your fabric so that you have an additional 4″ of fabric on all sides. (Take the width dimension and add 8, and take your length dimension and add 8. This will be the size of your piece of fabric.) Once it is cut set it aside.

Again, I like to use my DAP RapidFuse spray adhesive when upholstering. Just lightly dust the foam form with the adhesive spray. Then lightly lay your fabric on top of your cushion doing your best to keep it square. Once you are happy with the placement smooth the fabric out over the form.

Then flip over and secure the fabric to the back of the frame using the upholstery stapler. (If you have excess fabric you can easily cut it off with scissors if so desired.)

Ta-Da! Know it is time to give this bad boy some character!

Leather Straps

While a simple upholstered headboard is a classic, I was feeling the need for some pizzazz! I recently finished up the curtains in the living room and I loved the style of the leather straps. I used the look and recreated the look on a larger scale. Leather and brass!

The plan was use two leather strips to secure the upholstered headboard to the wall, while also giving it tons of character. In order to determine the length of my leather strap I used the following formula. (Height of headboard x2, + 8″) The additional 8″ will allow for an extra 4″ on each end of the strap allowing space for the brass twist lock closure.

Most clasps will come with their own set of instructions. Please consult them, but this is a basic overview. I centered my closure approximately 2″ down from the top of my strap. I used a forstner bit and an x-acto knife to form the proper size hole in the leather allowing me to install the brass closure opening.

Installing the twist lock mechanism is very simple. It is just two small incisions, then feed the metal prongs through and fan out. Easy-peasy.

Installation

Begin by marking where you would like your straps to be situated on the headboard. (Mine are placed approximately 12″ from each edge.) Next, find the middle/center of the leather strap. Using a 1/2″ screw, drive the screw through the strap and into the bottom frame of your headboard.

The headboard is designed to be extremely light weight and as such will not require much by way of install. I used 2 screws placing them slightly above closure on the back strap. I would highly recommend these go into a secure stud or utilize mollies.

Once the screws are in place you can latch the top strap to the back. This will complete the installation process while also hiding the screws!

Installing brass closures on a DIY upholstered headboard with leather straps

That’s all there is to it! A simple elegant piece that is not only cheap and practical, it totally completes this space! Stay tuned for the full room reveal!

DIY upholstered heard board with leather straps

Want to see more R.V. projects? You can can check out all the progress and projects here:

That about wraps it up for this project! Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

How to: Ombre Painting Wall Art

Paid for in part by sponsors like Frogtape*

 I was finishing up the garage section of the Toy Hauler and decided it needed a little bit of art or decor on a blank wall. Seeing as this was going to be in the “garage”  in a mobile unit,  that also doubles as the kids bunk house, I  knew I needed something…durable. Another requirement…  I could only  use items around my house. (Covid-19)  So, I rummaged through my “future projects” closet  and found a framed piece of artwork I picked up on clearance at Hobby Lobby last year! 

First things first I needed a clean slate so I painted over the zebra print so that I would have blank canvas.

I then used a straight edge and Frogtape to create the appearance of a mat edge.

Next, I needed to get my supplies in order. I had a plethora of leftover paint samples in the garage that I was able to choose from. For this ombre art I used 5 different colors in varying shades of gray. You can use more or less if you so choose. I also needed a stiff bristle brush (chip brush).

Using a “chip brush” I started applying the lightest color first. In order for this technique to work you need to work quickly! I went over it several times in a “w” motion until the brush strokes looked fairly uniform.

Once the first color was on I moved on to the second to lightest color. When switching colors you do not need to change paint brushes just wipe the excess and dry blot it on a paper towel before starting the next color.

Repeat these steps for each of the different colors making sure to blend up and overlap the colors so that there aren’t any drastic lines.

I personally think the broader the hue spectrum the better it turns out. My first color was barely an off-white and my last color was nearly black. I think the stark difference makes it more interesting. I think this technique could be really cool blending different colors too!

Alright, once the last color is in place we are ready to move onto the next phase. Quickly clean your brush thoroughly, or grab a new one.

Before beginning this step I ran my paintbrush under water and towel dried it. They idea is to have a slightly damp brush. I then started at the top (lightest color) and started lightly dragging my brush horizontally across the paint. This is why it is so important to work quickly, you need to be working with wet paint in order for this technique to work.

As best as you can create parallel strokes all the way down to the bottom of the piece. (Darkest color)

Ta-Da! Isn’t it beautiful? Now for the fun part, removing the tape to reveal your art work!

I took one extra precaution to protect the paint, I added a coat of mod-podge on top. This isn’t necessary but it will give it a protective coat while also giving a little bit of luster.

Seriously, how legit does this 5 min piece of art look!?

Once dry I put it back in the original frame and I was good to go! So, without further ado let me show you where this beauty ended up and how awesome the toy hauler garage turned out!

Let me give you are quick refresher on what this space looked like the day we brought it home. Lots of brown and beige, and the general ambience of a cave.

This space definitely needed some love to help it reach its full potential.

With a little bit of elbow grease, paint, new curtains and some new upholstery this place felt so warm and welcoming. No more cave!

Well, there you have it folks a fresh take on a toy hauler garage. (In case you were wondering, yes there is still a bunk bed that drops down from the ceiling. I painted the entire platform white so that it would look like it was just part of the ceiling. It definitely helped brighten and reflect light into this small space!)

If you want to see more of the R.V. Toy Hauler reveal you can check them out in the links below.

Sources:

  • Wall Color- “Repose Gray” Lightened 50%. by Sherwin Williams
  • Table Top- Ikea
  • Curtains (Tutorial available here.)
  • Printed Throw Pillow – Target 2019
  • Burnt Red Throw Pillow- T.J. Maxx 2018

Thanks for reading along, and make sure to check back for more R.V. makeover developments.

Take Luck,

Corey

Toy Hauler/R.V. Makeover Sofa

This post does contains affiliate links and is paid for in part by Frogtape partners.

Alright, who here has an outdated R.V. or Toy hauler that needs a makeover? Well, you are in the right place. Let’s dive right in, shall we?

Phase 1: Gutting the R.V.

Oh how I wish I could transport you into this image. Let me paint you a picture. Imagine you have 3 full grown dogs and the concept of brushing or cutting their hair is a foreign concept. Then one day you decide to sell said kennel R.V. and you realize the smell might be a deterrent. What to do? OBVIOUSLY you buy three economy size boxes of moth balls and hide them in all the nooks, crannies and vent ducts in order to mask the smell.

Toy Hauler Makeover Before

Phase 2: Prepping

Is that picture coming in clear? Well, go ahead and add at least 3 more dogs possibly a cat, Florida heat and you get a pretty good sense of the smell. All of this to say, while the before images aren’t BAD, this makeover was necessary despite the appearance of its condition.

Toy Hauler Makeover Painting Process

Phase 2: Priming

Everything needed to go. Anything that could not receive a fresh coat of odor blocking paint was removed. ( If you are interested in the painting process you can get all the details for spraying here, and hand rolling here.) But for the sake of showing the makeover progression let me give you a general overview. I gutted this sucker! This time around I decided to use the “Fuji, Semi-Pro Sprayer” in order to paint. Before starting I removed EVERYTHING and taped EVERYTHING off using Frogtape.

Toy Hauler Makeover Painting Process

Phase 3: Painting

As I said, I have all the details for my paint process (including the best primer EVER) available here. It is amazing the difference that simply priming the walls made. Everything looked so much bigger and brighter!

Once all the walls were primed and painted, it looked like it was a brand new Toy Hauler that was still in the assembly process. The walls looked, so modern and brand-spankin’ new.

Toy Hauler Makeover painting Process Repose Gray by Sherwin Williams.

While the original linoleum was in fairly good condition there was a little snag.  There was carpet in about 70% of the camper that needed to be removed.   I knew that matching the linoleum exactly would be nearly impossible so instead I replaced the flooring throughout using NuCore cork back flooring in the color “Morel”. 

Phase 4: Flooring

Toy Hauler Makeover floor replacement.

Phase 5: Replacing Furniture

The next hurdle in the living area was creating seating. The original sofa was beyond repair and would need to be completely replaced. I used the Ikea MORABO sofa in my last R.V. Makeover and loved it! The only snag in this situation is I needed a MUCH larger sofa. In this toy hauler, the dining area is actually in a back room/garage. Where as in the last camper I was working with a smaller space and trying to accommodate a dinette set. In this one I needed one very long sofa… and I had an idea.

Toy Hauler Makeover, creating an oversize seating area.

“Why not just use TWO love seats and bolt them together?”, and that is just what I did! I purchased two love seats and removed the inside arms and bolted them together. It was so simple and it took all of 5 minutes to do.

After that I built a frame for them to sit on and small side tables to fill the space difference. (You can see all the details on this process, on my Instagram Stories here.)

Toy Hauler replacement sofa, bolting two loveseats together to create an oversize sofa.
Toy hauler built-in end tables.

Phase 6: Adding Practical Character

The last thing to complete the space was to add light sconces and curtains! The sconces are just standard light fixtures that I converted to R.V. standards by simply switching the light bulb! ( You can get the fixture here, and the light bulb here.) If you want any details about any of these project make sure you check out all of my Instagram Stories, where they are all saved to my highlights.

After the last R.V. makeover I have received a ton of requests for a curtain tutorial, so this time around I am happy to oblige! You can check out all the details here.

So here it is, the living area of the newly renovated toy hauler!

Toy Hauler Makeover After with new built-in couch
Toy Hauler Makeover Before and After
Toy Hauler Makeover Sofa Replacememt
Toy Hauler Makeover Before and After

Let’s see that from another angle!

Toy Hauler Makeover Before Image
Toy Hauler Makeover, Remove all the fixtures
Toy Hauler Makeover Painting Process, Priming
Toy Hauler Makeover replacing sofa
Toy Hauler Makeover Before and After
Toy Hauler Makeover
Toy Hauler Makeover Before and After
Toy Hauler Kitchen Makeover
Toy Hauler Makeover Before and After

There you have it folks, the R.V./ Toy Hauler living area/sofa makeover! When we decided to tackle this Toy Hauler and sell our first camper I may have cried, but as this project is coming together I am so glad we did! This project is surpassing all my expectations and I am so excited to finish up the rest of this project! Check back soon for the dining room, bathroom, and master bedroom reveals!

Sources

If you are looking for more R.V. inspiration make sure you check out the rest of the Toy Hauler, and our first camper makeover. You can find all the links below.

Latest ‘Grams