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Blog

Shelf Under Cabinets

March 3, 2023

The dimensions of this build will be based on the dimensions of your cabinets. Therefore a comprehensive cut list is not included.

Begin measuring the entire width of your cabinets.

 Things to consider when measuring:

  • If there are several cabinets in a row, measure the entire width of the adjoined cabinets.

                 Width of Cabinets + ½” (overhang) + ½” (overhang) = Length of 12 ½” & 10” horizontal boards.

  • If the cabinet series dead ends into a wall.

Width of Cabinets + ½” (overhang)= Width of Boards  12 ½” & 10” horizontal boards.

  • If the cabinet series dead ends into walls on both sides= Width of the cabinets= Width of 12 ½” & 10” horizontal boards.

 The depth of “Upper Cabinets” is fairly universal.  However, for clarity sake, you take the depth measurement of your cabinets and add ½”.

 

Prep Boards

 I used 3/4″ Plywood for all of my boards. In order to hide the exposed ply  I used edge banding to wrap my boards edges. 

Before assembling I prefer to sand my boards.

 

Attach Sides

Secure the sides to the top board by driving 1.5″ screws through the top board and into the sides below. Use the diagram below for dimensions and spacing.

Attach Bottom of Under Cabinet Shelf

Using 1.5″ screws secure the bottom of the shelf by driving screw through the bottom shelf and into the side supports above it. ( See diagram below for more dimensions and spacing.)

Attach Back Support for Shelf Under Cabinet

 Using  1.25″ pocket holes screws secure the upper back support to the interior of the shelf.  See the below diagram for dimensions.

Assemble Base of Under Cabinet Shelf

 Using the below diagram  drill pocket holes and attach the back bottom support to the sides of corbels. ( The dimension of this board will vary based on your cabinets.)

Width of Horizontal Boards – 1/2″(overhang) – 1/2″(overhang) – 1 3/4″ (corbel) – 1 3/4″ (corbel) = Interior Bottom Support

Attach Base Support

Using  DAP Weldwood and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws,  secure the support to the bottom of the shelf. (See diagram below for dimensions and spacing.)

Attach to Cabinet

For more details on how I secured the shelf to the cabinet see my full tutorial here.

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover

March 3, 2023

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover: My Sister-in-law and Brother had a basic standard kitchen. They did a marvelous job and added character by painting their kitchen cabinets. It made the space 100x’s better, but it still felt like it was missing something. Originally the plan was to build up the cabinets to the ceiling, but we were in a bit of a time and $$ crunch so we opted to raise the original cabinets to the ceiling and create a cute custom shelf underneath. A big thank you to the the great folks at DAP and their wonderful product line that I have known and trusted for YEARS!

This post is sponsored by Dap Products*

Tools SuggestedMaterials Used
Eye Protection3/4″ Plywood
Hearing ProtectionNickel Gap Paneling
Sander 180-220 gritTrim and Corbels as Desired
DrillWeldwood Wood Glue
Sponge Sanding BlockAlex Flex Caulk
Pin Nailer (Optional)DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler
Miter SawDAP Premium Wood Filler
Table SawPaint
 

Remove Cabinets

When removing an upper cabinet I would suggest having someone to help carry the weight, or install a ledger board beneath it.

( A ledger board is a board that is secured to the wall under a cabinet that will help carry it’s weight while either removing or installing a cabinet.)

Most cabinets are secured through the interior back and into a stud in the wall behind it. Often times there will be screws that connect the cabinet to the bordering cabinet.

Re-Install Cabinets

Once all the cabinets are down, it is time to reinstall them! Remember that “ledger board” we talked about? It is time to take careful measurements and attach a board to the wall at your preferred LEVEL height. In this case I raised the cabinets 9.5″, the goal was to raise the cabinets so that they are 3.75″ from the ceiling.

Keep in mind practicality, you will still need to be able to access at least the bottom cabinet shelf. For reference they have 8′ ceilings and 30″ cabinets.

Theoretically, when raising cabinets you can use the same screw holes that were originally used to install. If your cabinets were originally installed correctly then the screws should be going into studs. If you are raising the cabinets directly up you SHOULD still be hitting studs with your screws. ( Studs run vertically, thus you will be still hitting the same stud, only 9.5″ higher.)

Add Trim

As noted earlier, I installed the cabinets 3.75″ from the ceiling. This was planned! I ultimately planned on using a 1×4″ primed board to bridge the gap between the top of the cabinets and the ceiling.

The first step in this process is beefing up the top of the cabinet so that I had something to attach the 1×4″ trim board to. To do this I used scrap piece of 3/4″ plywood and tacked them to the top of the cabinet. ( As you can see in the image below the top of the cabinet has a dead space where the face frame (front of the cabinet) extends 3/4″ up past the cabinet carcass (cabinet box). The plywood will bridge that gap and give me a solid way to secure a 2×4 to the top of the cabinet.

I drove 2.5″ screws up through the cabinet box, through the 3/4″ plywood and into the 2×4″ board. This will ensure that the 2×4 is stable and can support the next step: TRIM.

As stated earlier I used 1×4″ primed pine finger board. First, measure and cut boards to desired length. Using 1.5″ 16 gauge nails I attached the primed board to the front of the 2×4″.

With most ceilings you will have subtle elevation changes. In order to hide any gaps I like to use 3/4″ PVC cove molding (paired with Alex Flex All Purpose Caulk) to hide gaps and create a decorative look. ( If you have a pin nailer, I would highly recommend using it on light weight trim.

Install Backsplash

This kitchen had a basic 3.5″ counter backsplash. Which is perfect opportunity to use paneling! (I would not suggest resting MDF paneling directly on a counter top where it would be more susceptible to water damage.)

For more details on on how to install paneling I have a more in-depth tutorial here.

Build Under Cabinet Shelf

So… we have a pretty backsplash and cabinets that are sitting 9.5 inches higher than standard… now what ?! We DEFINITELY still want to utilize that lower space. The goal is to create additional storage space higher (inside the cabinet), NOT to take away the functional lower space. In order to do that I’m going to BUILD a lower shelf.

These lower shelves are custom made to the cabinet above it.

Prep Under Cabinet Shelves

The secret to making this new shelf look seamlessly integrated is in the finish work ! After the build is complete, we need to make it look PERFECT! To do that I use DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler to hide any nail holes. Once dry sand smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. Before painting use Alex Flex Caulk to make all the seams disappear!

After all the finish work is complete it is time for paint. These cabinets were previously painted by the owner. Luckily, they had extra paint on hand. If you are trying to match these to factory finish cabinets, I would recommended taking one of your cabinet doors to Sherwin Williams and have them color match and give a finish recommendation. (Paint will also be used to paint the trim.)

I prefer to use a paint sprayed when working on cabinetry, if you are looking to paint your existing cabinets, or just need a quick tutorial on hand painting cabinets I have a full tutorial here.

When designing this build I incorporated back supports that would allow for an easy install. I drove 2.5″ screws through the back support and into the studs behind them. ( I marked the stud placement when installing the upper cabinets.)

I then secured the shelf to the bottom of the cabinet. This will help carry the weight and hide any seams or gaps between the new shelf and the old cabinet.

Repair and Paint

Now to make it all look unified. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH… don’t skip the finish work! When done properly it will make this cabinet look like it was custom built for this space, NOT an afterthought.

Fill all the screw holes that were created from installing the shelf. When working on painted pieces I hands-down prefer DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler. Simply, fill holes, allow to dry and then sand smooth.

Next, make sure EVERY joint and seam is caulked with Alex Flex Caulk. Filling these seams before painting will ensure a seamless appearance.

I typically will do all my finish work at the same time. In this case I needed to fill any nails holes in the trim using DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler and caulk all the trim joints and seams.

Caulking is not only for aesthetics, it is also for practicality. For instance where the “backsplash” paneling meets the counter backsplash. Using a good waterproof caulk like AMP Kitchen Bath and Plumbing Sealantwill help protect that joint from water damage.

After all caulk is dry do any necessary paint touch up!

Add Decorative Touches

To finish up the space I used an inexpensive pot rack to fill the blank space above the range. Lastly, I used their plates and cups to the lower shelf. The point of this shelf and raised cabinets is to increase storage not to loose it… SO without further adieu, I give you a “Raised Cabinet Kitchen”!

  Add  decorative  rod above stove.

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover

Ta-da! It’s amazing what just a few days and elbow grease can do for a space! The differences actually take a minute to pinpoint, but the impact is huge!

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Breakdown

Cabinets $0 Used Existing
2″x4″ board $4  
1×4″ Primed Board $16  
Cove Molding $ 7 (x2)  
Nickel Gap Board Backsplash $37  
Shelf Plywood $0  I had scraps. (Less then 1 sheet)
Corbels $10 (x4)  
Paint $0 Had leftover
Pot Rack $20  
Total = $131  

For LESS than $150 we completely transformed this space!!! Granted I had some supplies on hand. Obviously, this will be based on how large your kitchen is. In order to make these shelves I used less than a half sheet. ( Plywood could run up to $80 a sheet.)

I CAN NOT get over how much a difference raising cabinets can make. Thanks so much for taking the time to read and if you aren’t following along social, please consider checking it out!

Take Luck,

Corey

Raised Kitchen Cabinets

Sources:

  • Upper Cabinet  Color- Sherwin Williams  “Snowbound”  
  • Lower Cabinet  Color-  Behr
  • Wall Pot Rack- Amazon 
  • Decorative Utensils- Amazon
  • Nickel-gap Boards- Home  Depot 
  • Shelf Corbels- Lowes  

Back of Door Spice Rack

December 10, 2022

*This post is sponsored by Dap and contains affiliate links. *

The back of our pantry door was empty, and I needed a spice rack. This DIY back of the door spice rack was just the ticket.

Tools SuggestedMaterials Used
Eye Protection1×4″ & 1×3″ Primed Boards
Hearing ProtectionNickel Gap Paneling
Sander 180-220 gritRapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive
DrillWeldWood Wood Glue
Sponge Sanding BlockAlex Plus All Purpose Caulk
Pin Nailer (Optional)DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler
Pocket Hole Jig Paint
TablesawSpray Paint (I used Rustoleum Metallic Gold)
Miter Saw 
  

Prep Materials

Mark, measure and cut all materials to specified measurements.

This spice rack includes 1/8″ steel rods. These will serve as holders to keep the spices from falling off the rack. While this rack does require something to hold the cards in place, it does NOT need to be rods. A simple 1×2 primed board would work beautifully too.

Drill Holes

If you are planning to use steel rods, mark and drill holes prior to assembly. Gauge of rod is based on desired aesthetics. I used 1/8″ rod and it made for easy assembly because it had a little bit of flexibility. If you desire a thicker look I would recommend installing rod before assembly.

Assemble Back of Door Spice Rack

When assembling I always use DAP Weldwood Wood Glue. This rack will be holding a decent amount of weight and I want to ensure it has Weldwood Wood Glue to give it the strength it needs.

My secret weapon when assembling is Weldwood Wood Glue and a pin nailer. (Even if I am using other forms of fasteners.) I first apply WeldWood Wood Glue and then use a pin nailer to tack in place. The pin acts as a clamp while the wood glue cures , giving me a perfect joint every time.

I use the same method when applying the panel backing. I apply a small bead of Weldwood Wood Glue on the back slats and frame, then drop the paneling in place and tack with a pin nailer.

( I routed out the back of my spice rack so that the paneling would not be visible from the side. This is not necessary for functionality of spice rack.)

Prep for Paint

 Before painting I want to make sure this spice rack is flawless in order to do this, I use Dap Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler .   I will fill all pin holes,  joints and if desired pocket holes. Once it is completely dried,  sand smooth with a high grit sand paper. 

After sanding smooth the entire spice rack it’s time to perfect this build. The best way to make seams completely disappear is using a good caulk. I always opt for DAP caulk, for this project I used Alex Plus All Purpose Caulk. Simply apply a small bead to all seams, smooth, and allow to dry.

Paint Back of Door Spice Rack

Time to make this spice rack uniquely your own; time to paint! I painted the base of my spice rack “Agreeable Gray” by Sherwin Williams. I prefer to use my Graco TC Sprayer when painting detailed pieces.

I wanted to “spice up” the rods as well. I first primed them using a spray primer and then applied multiple light coats of Rustleoum Metallic Gold Spray paint.

Once bars are completely dry before adding to the body of the spice rack. First I applied a small amount of RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive, then gently flex and pop the rods into place.

Prep Door

The biggest concern when creating this spice rack was making sure that my door would be able to handle the weight. I love my door, but it’s drop panel design is not ideal for this spice rack. So I made a few modifications!

I used Weldwood Wood Glue to attach two 1/2″ boards in the inset space. By beefing up this area and using a GOOD wood glue it would create the perfect support for my spice rack! (Make sure you allow the glue to fully cure before securing spice rack.

Install Back of Door Spice Rack

In order to secure the spice rack to the door I used 1 1/4″ screws along the top and bottom support rails.

the last thing this spice rack needed was a rail to hold the jars in place. In order to place the welding rods in place, I added a small dab of RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive to the both ends of the rod. Then place one end into the allocated drilled hole, slightly bend the rod so that the other end of the rod can go into the opposing pre-drilled hole. Gently finesse into place. The RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive will hold the rods snug.

To finish off this custom shelf I added very simple style jars and labels.

Source List:

  • Paint Color-  “Agreeable Gray”  Sherwin Williams
  • Spray Paint- “Metallic Gold”  Rustoleum
  • Welding Rods- Amazon
  • Spice Jar Labels- Amazon
  • Spice Jars- Amazon
  • Rubber Bumpers for Jars- Amazon

 

Pool Patio Design

September 23, 2022

Before

I have dreamed about having a pool ever since we moved to Florida…(10 years ago). Well, I am happy to report, that after years of saving up and waiting for the right timing we finally have a pool!

There were many reasons I wanted a pool: Obviously, I love swimming and wanted to be able to swim with my family. Another reason: I wanted our home to be a place that my boys’ and their friends would want to be. Last but certainly not least, I love to have a place to entertain mine, and my husbands’ large families.

As you can see I planned the pool area to have a large patio space. The goal was to create several separate spaces for seating. A lot of thought went into the deck layout and it was ultimately decided to create 3 different seating areas.

Patio Seating

Vineyard 6-Piece Sectional
Vineyard 6- Piece Sectional

Patio Dining Area

Rustic Farmhouse Dining Set by POLYWOOD
Rustic Farmhouse Dining Set
Rustic Farmhouse Dining Set by POLYWOOD

Patio Lounging

Nautical Chaise by POLYWOOD

Patio Essentials

Sources: 

7-Piece Rustic Farmhouse Dining Set : “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

6-Piece Vineyard  Sectional: “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

Nautical Chaise: “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

Coffee Table: “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

Rectangle Umbrella: Amazon 

10″ Circle Umbrella: Amazon

Napkins: World Market 

Napkin Rings:  Hobby Lobby Fall 2022

Porch Sconce Lights: Amazon 

Clear Pool Floats: Amazon 

How To: Exterior Door Makeover

September 21, 2022

*This “How to : Exterior Door Makeover/Repair ”  is sponsored by DAP and includes affiliate links. *

Exterior Door Makeover Painting and Repair

While working on my back patio makeover I made the executive decision that our poor back door needed some lovin’. Time has not been kind to these double doors. They take a brunt of the sun and rain without any protection from our crazy Florida weather. As a result there is a considerable amount of water damage due to poor weather proofing. Let’s fix that! In order to do that I teamed up with the great folks at DAP and I used the following tools and materials:

 Tools Suggested:Materials Used:
Caulk Removal Tool DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler
Nailer ( If Necessary) DAP Dynaflex Ultra in Clear
Sand Paper DAP Dynaflex Ultra in Black
 Caulk Gun DAP RapidFuse All Purpose
 Utility Blade ScraperExterior Paint /New Door Hardware

Repair Door

Before I can even think about painting, there are some repairs that need to be made. In my case I had some trim boards that were loose and that were creating unsightly and damaging cracks. I used an 18 gauge nailer to secure them.

Exterior Door Makeover Painting and Repair

After nailing the loose trim, I needed to fill the holes caused by the nails. To do this I used.  DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler. This is very important step. If nail holes are not properly filled and then painted with and exterior paint they will allow water in and cause more water damage.

Exterior Door Makeover Painting  and repair

Filling holes is a simple and straightforward process. I use my finger and dab a very small amount and suppress it into the void. Then let it dry! Later in the process I will be sanding the door in preparation for paint, at that point I will sand the excess filler down.

Remove Old Caulk

 We are getting close to prepping for paint,  however…  because we are repairing weather damage we need to add a few extra steps.  We will need to re-seal and caulk the door frame and seams,  before we can do that we need to remove  the old stuff! 

Exterior Door Makeover Painting

When removing old caulk, I prefer to use a Caulk Removal Tool. It has a hollowed-out tip that allows for fast and easy calk removal.

Prep for Paint

After all the caulk is removed, it is time to move on to paint prep. While many paints claim stick without prep, I ALWAYS recommend taking 5 extra minutes to scuff up surfaces before painting. The goal is NOT to remove paint, but to simply scuff up and glossy surfaces. This will give your paint/ primer something to stick to and prevent future peeling.

Exterior Door Makeover Painting

I used a palm sander for the large flat sections and a Sponge Sander for the trim work. The entire process took less than 5 minutes! After sanding I used a damp cloth to remove any debris and clean the surface in preparation for paint.

Exterior Door Makeover Painting

Caulk and Seal Exterior Door

This next step is CRUCIAL, because this is an exterior door that is exposed to the elements it needs extra protection. All of the seams and joints need to be sealed with a GOOD caulk. My go-to for outdoor projects is DAP Dynaflex Ultra in Clear. This caulk is perfect for all window, door, siding, and trim projects. It is 100% waterproof, and of course paintable! Which is perfect for this project!

Exterior Door Makeover Caulk

I took extra care to caulk ALL the joints and seams on this project, I want to prevent any future water damage. DAP Dynaflex Ultra in Clear will do just that.

Paint Exterior Door

DAP Dynaflex Ultra in Clear is paint ready in just one hour! About the time I finished caulking and gathered all my paint supplies I was good to go. When painting an exterior project, always select an outdoor paint. Not all paints are created equal. You will need something that is fade resistant and will stand up to the elements.

Exterior Door Makeover Painting

When painting doors, I tend to start by painting the interior door jamb. Reason being? I have come to realize that it is my least favorite part and therefor sometimes just skip it…. haha, this is a toxic trait of mine. Notice that mine is red? Ha-ha, that is from the original owners! I painted the noticeable outside and lost patience to paint the interior; for that reason, I paint the jamb first, it keeps me committed to being thorough! 🙂

*Jamb= The technical term for the interior frame of the door.

Exterior Door Makeover Painting

After the jamb is painted I then paint the exterior. In MOST cases I tape off my lines, however in this case I decided not to. Reason being? I live in Florida and the humidity is crazy right now and tape was not wanting to stay put… also, I like using the paint scraping method!

Exterior Door Makeover Painting

What is the “paint scraping method”? Glad you asked. When painting a piece of trim that is against glass I simply paint the entire seam and allow the paint to go onto the glass. Once the paint has completely dried I score the joint with a Utility Blade and then use a Scraper Razor to clean up the excess paint. It works great!

Caulk Glass on Exterior Door

My doors have glass panels, sometimes these are called “Lites”. Over the years of baking in the sun the caulk/adhesive that sealed the trim to the panel was non-existent. I wanted to create a nice crisp caulk line and protect this joint as well.

Yes, I could have used the DAP Dynaflex Ultra in Clear and then painted the seam… BUT I can get a very narrow crisp line using the following method.

I first taped off the window using a painters tape.  I place the tape  very close to the trim. (Remember that everything that you do on the outside of the window, will be visible on the inside.  Thus the desire for tight crisp lines.) 

After taping I ran a small bead of DAP Dynaflex Ultra in Black along the joint. Using a baby wipe or a wet finger smooth out the bead of caulk. IMMEDIATELY after soothing, remove the tape. If you wait, you risk the caulk drying to the tape and tearing up the caulk.

Because my doors are nearly black the DAP Dynaflex Ultra in Black works perfectly and creates crisp line that protects the joint and blends flawlessly with my door without needing paint!

Replace Weather Stripping on Exterior Door

One of the primary reasons I was repairing this door is due to water damage. At this point I had already removed all the existing caulk and replaced with a high quality DAP Dynaflex Ultra. This will mitigate future water damage. However, caulk is not intended to seal the gap between the door and the door jamb. To seal the gap I used Door Kerf Weather Strips.

Exterior Door Makeover Weather Stripping

The best way to help prevent water issues is to replace the kerf weather strip. This particular type of weather stripping is easy to replace. Simply pull firmly on the existing strip and the tongue will pop out of the groove. Replacing the strip, is just as simple. Simply push the tongue into place, and cut to fit. This style can be cut with common scissors.

*Please note, not all doors have the same style pf weather stripping, a quick way to check is just give your existing strips a quick tug and see if the strip pulls loose.

Exterior Door Makeover Weather Stripping

Replace Door Hardware

 My door hardware had definitely seen better days, and actually the source of a water leak!   I am telling you, these poor doors were a complete and utter mess!  I purchased the Schlage Latitude Matte Black Deadbolt Set.   Follow the included instructions for a quick and easy install. 

exterior door makeover
exterior Door Makeover
exterior Door Makeover
Exterior Door Makeover

Phew, these doors have been on my list for years and unfortunately putting them on the back burner was a huge mistake. Even if you don’t have time to repaint and swap hardware, caulk and sealing doors is a great way to prevent damage and protect your home! Obviously, I took it a few steps in this Exterior Door Makeover and I am IN LOVE with the end result. Make sure you check out the rest of my patio to see how it completes the space.

Thanks for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

Sources: 

Exterior Sconce Lights: Amazon

Deadbolt Door Hardware: Lowes

Paint: Sherwin Williams “Porpoise”/”Caviar” 40/60 mix 

Towels: Amazon

Hooks:  Hobby Lobby 2022 

Out-feed Assembly Workshop Table

August 9, 2022

I have had several work shop assembly tables, and all of them have served me well. I currently have a HUGE assembly table that I love. However, while working with my friend Lindsay from @FrillsandDrills we decided she needed something space efficient, while still being “EXTRA”!

work shop assembly table

Current Out-Feed Table

As I said, my current assembly table was too big, but there were some great aspects that we both loved and wanted to keep.

Original Assembly Table

The more I thought on it, the more I realized that my first assembly table might be just the ticket. I never took the time to create build build plans. Which is ok, looking back there were many things I would have changed. (You can see a little more about my original assembly table here.)

The Perfect Fit

Lindsay and I put our heads together and combined our ideas and my previous assembly tables to create this beauty.

Frills and Drills Workshop assembly Table

If you are interested in building your own, you are in luck! I have a full set of build plans complete with cut lists and diagrams.

This assembly table has a smaller footprint, but still has plenty of drill and nail gun storage. The shelving unit on the endocarp was designed to hold Husky Bins that work excellent for fasteners.

Frills and Drills Workshop assembly Table

This table was designed with a table saw that sat 25″ deep and 12 3/4″ tall. This table provides a great workspace and also serves as an outfield table. A simple hole cut into the table will allow access from the dust port to the shop vac stored below.

Workshop Assembly  Table

On the far side one the assembly table is plenty of open storage. This table was designed to store a shop vac. The shop vac will serve as dust collection when the table saw is in use. There is still plenty of additional space for shop storage as well.

Frills and Drills Workshop assembly Table

There you have it folks, an assembly table that has all the storage while still catering to a modest size shop!

Thanks for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

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Meet Corey

Hi everyone, my name is Corey, and I have a problem. I can’t leave well enough alone… The best therapy usually involves a variety of power tools. So, in the few “spare” moments I am not entertaining my two beautiful, rambunctious, boys, I can typically be found hunched over a sewing machine and/or covered in sawdust. All in the efforts to create a perfect balance of aesthetics and practicality in our home.
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