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Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover: My Sister-in-law and Brother had a basic standard kitchen. They did a marvelous job and added character by painting their kitchen cabinets. It made the space 100x’s better, but it still felt like it was missing something. Originally the plan was to build up the cabinets to the ceiling, but we were in a bit of a time and $$ crunch so we opted to raise the original cabinets to the ceiling and create a cute custom shelf underneath. A big thank you to the the great folks at DAP and their wonderful product line that I have known and trusted for YEARS!

This post is sponsored by Dap Products*

Tools Suggested	Materials Used
Eye Protection	3/4″ Plywood
Hearing Protection	Nickel Gap Paneling
Sander 180-220 grit	Trim and Corbels as Desired
Drill	Weldwood Wood Glue
Sponge Sanding Block	Alex Flex Caulk
Pin Nailer (Optional)	DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler
Miter Saw	DAP Premium Wood Filler
Table Saw	Paint

Remove Cabinets

When removing an upper cabinet I would suggest having someone to help carry the weight, or install a ledger board beneath it.

( A ledger board is a board that is secured to the wall under a cabinet that will help carry it’s weight while either removing or installing a cabinet.)

Most cabinets are secured through the interior back and into a stud in the wall behind it. Often times there will be screws that connect the cabinet to the bordering cabinet.

Re-Install Cabinets

Once all the cabinets are down, it is time to reinstall them! Remember that “ledger board” we talked about? It is time to take careful measurements and attach a board to the wall at your preferred LEVEL height. In this case I raised the cabinets 9.5″, the goal was to raise the cabinets so that they are 3.75″ from the ceiling.

Keep in mind practicality, you will still need to be able to access at least the bottom cabinet shelf. For reference they have 8′ ceilings and 30″ cabinets.

Theoretically, when raising cabinets you can use the same screw holes that were originally used to install. If your cabinets were originally installed correctly then the screws should be going into studs. If you are raising the cabinets directly up you SHOULD still be hitting studs with your screws. ( Studs run vertically, thus you will be still hitting the same stud, only 9.5″ higher.)

Add Trim

As noted earlier, I installed the cabinets 3.75″ from the ceiling. This was planned! I ultimately planned on using a 1×4″ primed board to bridge the gap between the top of the cabinets and the ceiling.

The first step in this process is beefing up the top of the cabinet so that I had something to attach the 1×4″ trim board to. To do this I used scrap piece of 3/4″ plywood and tacked them to the top of the cabinet. ( As you can see in the image below the top of the cabinet has a dead space where the face frame (front of the cabinet) extends 3/4″ up past the cabinet carcass (cabinet box). The plywood will bridge that gap and give me a solid way to secure a 2×4 to the top of the cabinet.

I drove 2.5″ screws up through the cabinet box, through the 3/4″ plywood and into the 2×4″ board. This will ensure that the 2×4 is stable and can support the next step: TRIM.

As stated earlier I used 1×4″ primed pine finger board. First, measure and cut boards to desired length. Using 1.5″ 16 gauge nails I attached the primed board to the front of the 2×4″.

With most ceilings you will have subtle elevation changes. In order to hide any gaps I like to use 3/4″ PVC cove molding (paired with Alex Flex All Purpose Caulk) to hide gaps and create a decorative look. ( If you have a pin nailer, I would highly recommend using it on light weight trim.

Install Backsplash

This kitchen had a basic 3.5″ counter backsplash. Which is perfect opportunity to use paneling! (I would not suggest resting MDF paneling directly on a counter top where it would be more susceptible to water damage.)

For more details on on how to install paneling I have a more in-depth tutorial here.

Build Under Cabinet Shelf

So… we have a pretty backsplash and cabinets that are sitting 9.5 inches higher than standard… now what ?! We DEFINITELY still want to utilize that lower space. The goal is to create additional storage space higher (inside the cabinet), NOT to take away the functional lower space. In order to do that I’m going to BUILD a lower shelf.

These lower shelves are custom made to the cabinet above it.

Prep Under Cabinet Shelves

The secret to making this new shelf look seamlessly integrated is in the finish work ! After the build is complete, we need to make it look PERFECT! To do that I use DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler to hide any nail holes. Once dry sand smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. Before painting use Alex Flex Caulk to make all the seams disappear!

After all the finish work is complete it is time for paint. These cabinets were previously painted by the owner. Luckily, they had extra paint on hand. If you are trying to match these to factory finish cabinets, I would recommended taking one of your cabinet doors to Sherwin Williams and have them color match and give a finish recommendation. (Paint will also be used to paint the trim.)

I prefer to use a paint sprayed when working on cabinetry, if you are looking to paint your existing cabinets, or just need a quick tutorial on hand painting cabinets I have a full tutorial here.

When designing this build I incorporated back supports that would allow for an easy install. I drove 2.5″ screws through the back support and into the studs behind them. ( I marked the stud placement when installing the upper cabinets.)

I then secured the shelf to the bottom of the cabinet. This will help carry the weight and hide any seams or gaps between the new shelf and the old cabinet.

Repair and Paint

Now to make it all look unified. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH… don’t skip the finish work! When done properly it will make this cabinet look like it was custom built for this space, NOT an afterthought.

Fill all the screw holes that were created from installing the shelf. When working on painted pieces I hands-down prefer DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler. Simply, fill holes, allow to dry and then sand smooth.

Next, make sure EVERY joint and seam is caulked with Alex Flex Caulk. Filling these seams before painting will ensure a seamless appearance.

I typically will do all my finish work at the same time. In this case I needed to fill any nails holes in the trim using DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler and caulk all the trim joints and seams.

Caulking is not only for aesthetics, it is also for practicality. For instance where the “backsplash” paneling meets the counter backsplash. Using a good waterproof caulk like AMP Kitchen Bath and Plumbing Sealantwill help protect that joint from water damage.

After all caulk is dry do any necessary paint touch up!

Add Decorative Touches

To finish up the space I used an inexpensive pot rack to fill the blank space above the range. Lastly, I used their plates and cups to the lower shelf. The point of this shelf and raised cabinets is to increase storage not to loose it… SO without further adieu, I give you a “Raised Cabinet Kitchen”!

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover

Ta-da! It’s amazing what just a few days and elbow grease can do for a space! The differences actually take a minute to pinpoint, but the impact is huge!

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Breakdown

Cabinets	$0	Used Existing
2″x4″ board	$4
1×4″ Primed Board	$16
Cove Molding	$ 7 (x2)
Nickel Gap Board Backsplash	$37
Shelf Plywood	$0	I had scraps. (Less then 1 sheet)
Corbels	$10 (x4)
Paint	$0	Had leftover
Pot Rack	$20
Total	= $131

For LESS than $150 we completely transformed this space!!! Granted I had some supplies on hand. Obviously, this will be based on how large your kitchen is. In order to make these shelves I used less than a half sheet. ( Plywood could run up to $80 a sheet.)

I CAN NOT get over how much a difference raising cabinets can make. Thanks so much for taking the time to read and if you aren’t following along social, please consider checking it out!

Take Luck,

Corey

Raised Kitchen Cabinets

Sources:

• Upper Cabinet  Color- Sherwin Williams  “Snowbound”  
• Lower Cabinet  Color-  Behr
• Wall Pot Rack- Amazon 
• Decorative Utensils- Amazon
• Nickel-gap Boards- Home  Depot 
• Shelf Corbels- Lowes  

Before

I have dreamed about having a pool ever since we moved to Florida…(10 years ago). Well, I am happy to report, that after years of saving up and waiting for the right timing we finally have a pool!

There were many reasons I wanted a pool: Obviously, I love swimming and wanted to be able to swim with my family. Another reason: I wanted our home to be a place that my boys’ and their friends would want to be. Last but certainly not least, I love to have a place to entertain mine, and my husbands’ large families.

As you can see I planned the pool area to have a large patio space. The goal was to create several separate spaces for seating. A lot of thought went into the deck layout and it was ultimately decided to create 3 different seating areas.

Patio Seating

Patio Dining Area

Patio Lounging

Patio Essentials

Sources: 

7-Piece Rustic Farmhouse Dining Set : “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

6-Piece Vineyard  Sectional: “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

Nautical Chaise: “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

Coffee Table: “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

Rectangle Umbrella: Amazon 

10″ Circle Umbrella: Amazon

Napkins: World Market 

Napkin Rings:  Hobby Lobby Fall 2022

Porch Sconce Lights: Amazon 

Clear Pool Floats: Amazon 

I have had several work shop assembly tables, and all of them have served me well. I currently have a HUGE assembly table that I love. However, while working with my friend Lindsay from @FrillsandDrills we decided she needed something space efficient, while still being “EXTRA”!

Current Out-Feed Table

As I said, my current assembly table was too big, but there were some great aspects that we both loved and wanted to keep.

Original Assembly Table

The more I thought on it, the more I realized that my first assembly table might be just the ticket. I never took the time to create build build plans. Which is ok, looking back there were many things I would have changed. (You can see a little more about my original assembly table here.)

The Perfect Fit

Lindsay and I put our heads together and combined our ideas and my previous assembly tables to create this beauty.

If you are interested in building your own, you are in luck! I have a full set of build plans complete with cut lists and diagrams.

This assembly table has a smaller footprint, but still has plenty of drill and nail gun storage. The shelving unit on the endocarp was designed to hold Husky Bins that work excellent for fasteners.

This table was designed with a table saw that sat 25″ deep and 12 3/4″ tall. This table provides a great workspace and also serves as an outfield table. A simple hole cut into the table will allow access from the dust port to the shop vac stored below.

On the far side one the assembly table is plenty of open storage. This table was designed to store a shop vac. The shop vac will serve as dust collection when the table saw is in use. There is still plenty of additional space for shop storage as well.

There you have it folks, an assembly table that has all the storage while still catering to a modest size shop!

Thanks for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey