Blog

Guitar Display Case

September 14, 2023

When designing my sons’ Music Studio (that would also double as a guest room) it was absolutely essential we build some snazzy Guitar display cases. So I teamed up with the great folks over at DAP to bring you some build plans to make your own!

Things to Consider: These dimensions were based on an Electric Bass Guitar with the following approximate dimensions 47” tall by 14” wide.

*NOT ACOUSTIC* If desired these plans could easily be widened to accommodate an acoustic guitar. I used the same build plans to display a standard electric guitar, there are just wider margins on the bottom of the display case

Tools Suggested	Materials Used
Eye Protection	1×4″ Common Boards
Hearing Protection	1×2″ Common Boards
Sander/Sand Paper	Optional Base CapTrim
Drill	Optional Lath Trim
Sponge Sanding Block	Paneling (I used Nickel Gap Paneling)
Pin Nailer	Lighting My Option (harder)
Miter Saw	Lighting EASY Option
Table Saw/ Circular	DAP Weldwood Professional Wood Glue
	DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler
	Alex Ultra Caulk

Prep Materials

Using a miter saw or circular saw prepare all your boards. Using a sander, sand your boards to achieve a smooth finish. (Please see “Build Plans” for more detailed dimensions.)

Assemble Box Frame

When assembling the Guitar Display Case make sure you use a GOOD wood glue. I always grab DAP Weldwood Professional Wood Glue.

Attach Back Supports

When attaching the back supports ALWAYS use a Weldwood Wood Glue and then reinforce with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

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Something to keep in mind: The back support will eventually be the support for the guitar hanger. You can adjust the placement of this cleat/support if you would like to alter the height that the guitar hangs at.

IF ADDING LIGHTING

There are several options when adding illumination.

1st- (Easy) Use these Battery Operated Light Guitar Hangers

2nd-(Medium) These bar lights would be a simple addition would not require as much tweaking as mine.

If you are a glutton for punishment and you want to add the same lights I did, now is the time!

I purposefully made the paneling so that there would be a 1/4″ gap around the perimeter between the paneling and the the frame. ( See image below.) This gap will act as a channel in which you can run any wires necessary for lighting.

BEFORE securing the paneling board to the back supports (using Weldwood Woo d Glue) ensure that you have all the proper wiring in place!

I used a center mount mini spot light, which required a small channel to be cut in my top trip so accommodate the wires. In order to do this I used my table saw to cut a small groove in the top center of my 1×2″ trim board. This will allow the wire to run through and access the channel around the paneling.

I found that using a small dab of caulk was perfect to hold the wire in place.

The lighting that I used included a toggle switch. In order to make it accessible I cut two notches on the bottom of my side frame. (There will be a 3/4″ gap between the wall and the case to accommodate any excess wires and adapters.)

Lastly, you will need a point for the power source. I drilled a hole at the bottom center of my case, approximately 1″ from the bottom of the 1×4″ board. This would allow the power cord to access the channel around the perimeter of the paneling.

Add Trim to Guitar Display Case

Again, DO NOT add trim unless you have COMPLETELY run your lighting wires OR you are not including lighting.

Using Weldwood Wood glue apply the 1×2″ trim pieces.

I opted to complicate matters further and added and additional layer of trim work. I used PVC base cap. This in and of itself is not a complicated step… HOWEVER, my dang lighting was in the way. So it required cutting a small notch to accommodate my light.

Fill Holes

the secret to a really professional build/ perfect paint finish? Make sure you take the time to fill all the holes, gaps, and seams! I always use Dap Plastic Wood. It doesn’t shrink as it dries, it dries quick and sands smooth every time!

After holes are filled, snd smooth, and then tip down to remove any dust and/or debris.

Caulk Seams

Here is where the magic happens. If you are beginner and still learning the ropes, caulk is going to be your best friend! It is the magic eraser of the DIY world. It will make all those unsightly gaps and crevices disappear. I always opt for DAP caulk, their Alex Ultra has flex AND is paint ready in 15 minutes!

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Paint Guitar Display Case

Paint in your desired finish, I opted for “Iron Ore” by Sherwin Williams in their “Emerald” line with a Satin finish. I used my Graco TC Pro Sprayer to apply the paint.

Install Guitar Hanger and Cleat

Last step before wall install is to add the guitar hanger. Use ¾” screws to attach the guitar hanger to the interior of the guitar display case. Note: the hanger should be secured through the back paneling AND into the back support.

Last step! In order to install the Guitar Display Case we will use the remaining 1×4″ board that was ripped with a 45 degree angle. This will serve as a cleat for the case to hang on. (The opposing cleat is installed on the back of the Guitar Display Case. You can see all the build plan details here.

There you have it, a functional piece of art that will elevate the look and feel of any guitar/space. I really feel like this Guitar Display Case gives off the moody vibes that I was trying to achieve in this music studio.

Thanks so much for following along!

Take Luck,

Corey

Convert Cabinet to Dog Crate

June 15, 2023

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel! This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet!

Shelf Under Cabinets

March 3, 2023

The dimensions of this build will be based on the dimensions of your cabinets. Therefore a comprehensive cut list is not included.

Begin measuring the entire width of your cabinets.

Things to consider when measuring:

If there are several cabinets in a row, measure the entire width of the adjoined cabinets.

Width of Cabinets + ½” (overhang) + ½” (overhang) = Length of 12 ½” & 10” horizontal boards.

If the cabinet series dead ends into a wall.

Width of Cabinets + ½” (overhang)= Width of Boards 12 ½” & 10” horizontal boards.

If the cabinet series dead ends into walls on both sides= Width of the cabinets= Width of 12 ½” & 10” horizontal boards.

The depth of “Upper Cabinets” is fairly universal. However, for clarity sake, you take the depth measurement of your cabinets and add ½”.

Prep Boards

I used 3/4″ Plywood for all of my boards. In order to hide the exposed ply I used edge banding to wrap my boards edges.

Before assembling I prefer to sand my boards.

Attach Sides

Secure the sides to the top board by driving 1.5″ screws through the top board and into the sides below. Use the diagram below for dimensions and spacing.

Attach Bottom of Under Cabinet Shelf

Using 1.5″ screws secure the bottom of the shelf by driving screw through the bottom shelf and into the side supports above it. ( See diagram below for more dimensions and spacing.)

Attach Back Support for Shelf Under Cabinet

Using 1.25″ pocket holes screws secure the upper back support to the interior of the shelf. See the below diagram for dimensions.

Assemble Base of Under Cabinet Shelf

Using the below diagram drill pocket holes and attach the back bottom support to the sides of corbels. ( The dimension of this board will vary based on your cabinets.)

Width of Horizontal Boards – 1/2″(overhang) – 1/2″(overhang) – 1 3/4″ (corbel) – 1 3/4″ (corbel) = Interior Bottom Support

Attach Base Support

Using DAP Weldwood and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, secure the support to the bottom of the shelf. (See diagram below for dimensions and spacing.)

Attach to Cabinet

For more details on how I secured the shelf to the cabinet see my full tutorial here.

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover

March 3, 2023

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover: My Sister-in-law and Brother had a basic standard kitchen. They did a marvelous job and added character by painting their kitchen cabinets. It made the space 100x’s better, but it still felt like it was missing something. Originally the plan was to build up the cabinets to the ceiling, but we were in a bit of a time and $$ crunch so we opted to raise the original cabinets to the ceiling and create a cute custom shelf underneath. A big thank you to the the great folks at DAP and their wonderful product line that I have known and trusted for YEARS!

This post is sponsored by Dap Products*

Tools Suggested	Materials Used
Eye Protection	3/4″ Plywood
Hearing Protection	Nickel Gap Paneling
Sander 180-220 grit	Trim and Corbels as Desired
Drill	Weldwood Wood Glue
Sponge Sanding Block	Alex Flex Caulk
Pin Nailer (Optional)	DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler
Miter Saw	DAP Premium Wood Filler
Table Saw	Paint

Remove Cabinets

When removing an upper cabinet I would suggest having someone to help carry the weight, or install a ledger board beneath it.

( A ledger board is a board that is secured to the wall under a cabinet that will help carry it’s weight while either removing or installing a cabinet.)

Most cabinets are secured through the interior back and into a stud in the wall behind it. Often times there will be screws that connect the cabinet to the bordering cabinet.

Re-Install Cabinets

Once all the cabinets are down, it is time to reinstall them! Remember that “ledger board” we talked about? It is time to take careful measurements and attach a board to the wall at your preferred LEVEL height. In this case I raised the cabinets 9.5″, the goal was to raise the cabinets so that they are 3.75″ from the ceiling.

Keep in mind practicality, you will still need to be able to access at least the bottom cabinet shelf. For reference they have 8′ ceilings and 30″ cabinets.

Theoretically, when raising cabinets you can use the same screw holes that were originally used to install. If your cabinets were originally installed correctly then the screws should be going into studs. If you are raising the cabinets directly up you SHOULD still be hitting studs with your screws. ( Studs run vertically, thus you will be still hitting the same stud, only 9.5″ higher.)

Add Trim

As noted earlier, I installed the cabinets 3.75″ from the ceiling. This was planned! I ultimately planned on using a 1×4″ primed board to bridge the gap between the top of the cabinets and the ceiling.

The first step in this process is beefing up the top of the cabinet so that I had something to attach the 1×4″ trim board to. To do this I used scrap piece of 3/4″ plywood and tacked them to the top of the cabinet. ( As you can see in the image below the top of the cabinet has a dead space where the face frame (front of the cabinet) extends 3/4″ up past the cabinet carcass (cabinet box). The plywood will bridge that gap and give me a solid way to secure a 2×4 to the top of the cabinet.

I drove 2.5″ screws up through the cabinet box, through the 3/4″ plywood and into the 2×4″ board. This will ensure that the 2×4 is stable and can support the next step: TRIM.

As stated earlier I used 1×4″ primed pine finger board. First, measure and cut boards to desired length. Using 1.5″ 16 gauge nails I attached the primed board to the front of the 2×4″.

With most ceilings you will have subtle elevation changes. In order to hide any gaps I like to use 3/4″ PVC cove molding (paired with Alex Flex All Purpose Caulk) to hide gaps and create a decorative look. ( If you have a pin nailer, I would highly recommend using it on light weight trim.

Install Backsplash

This kitchen had a basic 3.5″ counter backsplash. Which is perfect opportunity to use paneling! (I would not suggest resting MDF paneling directly on a counter top where it would be more susceptible to water damage.)

For more details on on how to install paneling I have a more in-depth tutorial here.

Build Under Cabinet Shelf

So… we have a pretty backsplash and cabinets that are sitting 9.5 inches higher than standard… now what ?! We DEFINITELY still want to utilize that lower space. The goal is to create additional storage space higher (inside the cabinet), NOT to take away the functional lower space. In order to do that I’m going to BUILD a lower shelf.

These lower shelves are custom made to the cabinet above it.

Prep Under Cabinet Shelves

The secret to making this new shelf look seamlessly integrated is in the finish work ! After the build is complete, we need to make it look PERFECT! To do that I use DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler to hide any nail holes. Once dry sand smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. Before painting use Alex Flex Caulk to make all the seams disappear!

After all the finish work is complete it is time for paint. These cabinets were previously painted by the owner. Luckily, they had extra paint on hand. If you are trying to match these to factory finish cabinets, I would recommended taking one of your cabinet doors to Sherwin Williams and have them color match and give a finish recommendation. (Paint will also be used to paint the trim.)

I prefer to use a paint sprayed when working on cabinetry, if you are looking to paint your existing cabinets, or just need a quick tutorial on hand painting cabinets I have a full tutorial here.

When designing this build I incorporated back supports that would allow for an easy install. I drove 2.5″ screws through the back support and into the studs behind them. ( I marked the stud placement when installing the upper cabinets.)

I then secured the shelf to the bottom of the cabinet. This will help carry the weight and hide any seams or gaps between the new shelf and the old cabinet.

Repair and Paint

Now to make it all look unified. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH… don’t skip the finish work! When done properly it will make this cabinet look like it was custom built for this space, NOT an afterthought.

Fill all the screw holes that were created from installing the shelf. When working on painted pieces I hands-down prefer DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler. Simply, fill holes, allow to dry and then sand smooth.

Next, make sure EVERY joint and seam is caulked with Alex Flex Caulk. Filling these seams before painting will ensure a seamless appearance.

I typically will do all my finish work at the same time. In this case I needed to fill any nails holes in the trim using DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler and caulk all the trim joints and seams.

Caulking is not only for aesthetics, it is also for practicality. For instance where the “backsplash” paneling meets the counter backsplash. Using a good waterproof caulk like AMP Kitchen Bath and Plumbing Sealantwill help protect that joint from water damage.

After all caulk is dry do any necessary paint touch up!

Add Decorative Touches

To finish up the space I used an inexpensive pot rack to fill the blank space above the range. Lastly, I used their plates and cups to the lower shelf. The point of this shelf and raised cabinets is to increase storage not to loose it… SO without further adieu, I give you a “Raised Cabinet Kitchen”!

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover

Ta-da! It’s amazing what just a few days and elbow grease can do for a space! The differences actually take a minute to pinpoint, but the impact is huge!

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Breakdown

Cabinets	$0	Used Existing
2″x4″ board	$4
1×4″ Primed Board	$16
Cove Molding	$ 7 (x2)
Nickel Gap Board Backsplash	$37
Shelf Plywood	$0	I had scraps. (Less then 1 sheet)
Corbels	$10 (x4)
Paint	$0	Had leftover
Pot Rack	$20
Total	= $131

For LESS than $150 we completely transformed this space!!! Granted I had some supplies on hand. Obviously, this will be based on how large your kitchen is. In order to make these shelves I used less than a half sheet. ( Plywood could run up to $80 a sheet.)

I CAN NOT get over how much a difference raising cabinets can make. Thanks so much for taking the time to read and if you aren’t following along social, please consider checking it out!

Take Luck,

Corey

Raised Kitchen Cabinets

Sources:

Upper Cabinet Color- Sherwin Williams “Snowbound”
Lower Cabinet Color- Behr
Wall Pot Rack- Amazon
Decorative Utensils- Amazon
Nickel-gap Boards- Home Depot
Shelf Corbels- Lowes

Back of Door Spice Rack

December 10, 2022

*This post is sponsored by Dap and contains affiliate links. *

The back of our pantry door was empty, and I needed a spice rack. This DIY back of the door spice rack was just the ticket.

Tools Suggested	Materials Used
Eye Protection	1×4″ & 1×3″ Primed Boards
Hearing Protection	Nickel Gap Paneling
Sander 180-220 grit	RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesiv e
Drill	WeldWood Wood Glue
Sponge Sanding Block	Alex Plus All Purpose Caulk
Pin Nailer (Optional)	DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler
Pocket Hole Jig	Paint
Tablesaw	Spray Paint (I used Rustoleum Metallic Gold)
Miter Saw

Prep Materials

Mark, measure and cut all materials to specified measurements.

This spice rack includes 1/8″ steel rods. These will serve as holders to keep the spices from falling off the rack. While this rack does require something to hold the cards in place, it does NOT need to be rods. A simple 1×2 primed board would work beautifully too.

Drill Holes

If you are planning to use steel rods, mark and drill holes prior to assembly. Gauge of rod is based on desired aesthetics. I used 1/8″ rod and it made for easy assembly because it had a little bit of flexibility. If you desire a thicker look I would recommend installing rod before assembly.

Assemble Back of Door Spice Rack

When assembling I always use DAP Weldwood Wood Glue. This rack will be holding a decent amount of weight and I want to ensure it has Weldwood Wood Glue to give it the strength it needs.

My secret weapon when assembling is Weldwood Wood Glue and a pin nailer. (Even if I am using other forms of fasteners.) I first apply WeldWood Wood Glue and then use a pin nailer to tack in place. The pin acts as a clamp while the wood glue cures , giving me a perfect joint every time.

I use the same method when applying the panel backing. I apply a small bead of Weldwood Wood Glue on the back slats and frame, then drop the paneling in place and tack with a pin nailer.

( I routed out the back of my spice rack so that the paneling would not be visible from the side. This is not necessary for functionality of spice rack.)

Prep for Paint

Before painting I want to make sure this spice rack is flawless in order to do this, I use Dap Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler . I will fill all pin holes, joints and if desired pocket holes. Once it is completely dried, sand smooth with a high grit sand paper.

After sanding smooth the entire spice rack it’s time to perfect this build. The best way to make seams completely disappear is using a good caulk. I always opt for DAP caulk, for this project I used Alex Plus All Purpose Caulk. Simply apply a small bead to all seams, smooth, and allow to dry.

Paint Back of Door Spice Rack

Time to make this spice rack uniquely your own; time to paint! I painted the base of my spice rack “Agreeable Gray” by Sherwin Williams. I prefer to use my Graco TC Sprayer when painting detailed pieces.

I wanted to “spice up” the rods as well. I first primed them using a spray primer and then applied multiple light coats of Rustleoum Metallic Gold Spray paint.

Once bars are completely dry before adding to the body of the spice rack. First I applied a small amount of RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive, then gently flex and pop the rods into place.

Prep Door

The biggest concern when creating this spice rack was making sure that my door would be able to handle the weight. I love my door, but it’s drop panel design is not ideal for this spice rack. So I made a few modifications!

I used Weldwood Wood Glue to attach two 1/2″ boards in the inset space. By beefing up this area and using a GOOD wood glue it would create the perfect support for my spice rack! (Make sure you allow the glue to fully cure before securing spice rack.

Install Back of Door Spice Rack

In order to secure the spice rack to the door I used 1 1/4″ screws along the top and bottom support rails.

the last thing this spice rack needed was a rail to hold the jars in place. In order to place the welding rods in place, I added a small dab of RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive to the both ends of the rod. Then place one end into the allocated drilled hole, slightly bend the rod so that the other end of the rod can go into the opposing pre-drilled hole. Gently finesse into place. The RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive will hold the rods snug.

To finish off this custom shelf I added very simple style jars and labels.

Source List:

Paint Color- “Agreeable Gray” Sherwin Williams
Spray Paint- “Metallic Gold” Rustoleum
Welding Rods- Amazon
Spice Jar Labels- Amazon
Spice Jars- Amazon
Rubber Bumpers for Jars- Amazon

Pool Patio Design

September 23, 2022

Before

I have dreamed about having a pool ever since we moved to Florida…(10 years ago). Well, I am happy to report, that after years of saving up and waiting for the right timing we finally have a pool!

There were many reasons I wanted a pool: Obviously, I love swimming and wanted to be able to swim with my family. Another reason: I wanted our home to be a place that my boys’ and their friends would want to be. Last but certainly not least, I love to have a place to entertain mine, and my husbands’ large families.

As you can see I planned the pool area to have a large patio space. The goal was to create several separate spaces for seating. A lot of thought went into the deck layout and it was ultimately decided to create 3 different seating areas.