Sawdust 2 Stitches

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BEFORE New Carpet/ Bonus Room Makeover

Sponsored by The Home Depot*

I think it is only natural to create a “to-do” list when you initially move into a home.  We normally tackle these  projects one at a time and slowly but surely get through it.  It’s a natural process.  You know what is also a natural process?  The domino effect,  much like the allegory of “If You Give a Mouse a Cookie”.    Only in this case  the proverbial “cookie” is  new carpet.

When we  first moved into our home we had a long to “to-do” list.  We prioritized the list and the entire upstairs took the back burner.   The carpet was in really bad condition, and the color was a tone that did not jive with any of the color schemes I gravitate towards.  Because of this, I never really did much with these rooms. I did not want to design an enitre room taking into account the color of the carpet, so I just kind of ignored these rooms. 

Sure,  I painted the room to get rid of the overwhelming band-aid color, and I tossed our old sectional in there,  but that was it.  I didn’t want to invest time or money into a space that I knew would someday be next on our “to-do” list.

Well I am happy to report that that day is today! I am ecstatic to share that I am teaming up with the great folks at The Home Depot, and LifeProof Carpeting to finally tackle this project.  I have all the details on the entire process and necessary steps to take when considering carpet yourself.

Make sure you check out my post over at the Home Depot. 

Trick: Capitalize the use of OLD CARPET

Remember how I compared  new carpeting to “giving a mouse a cookie”?  Well if you are unfamiliar with this popular children’s book it explains the series of events that are triggered by a small act… a domino effect.  In this case I reasoned, “If I am finally replacing the carpet, then I can finally replace the old sectional.” (Its due to retire, but I have put it off because I didn’t want to pick a new sofa based on the current carpet color.) This thought led to…” Heck, if I’m swapping the couches, I should probably consider putting up some wall decor….Dang, if I going to give the whole room a face-lift,  I should probably FINALLY paint the trim upstairs white too.” (All the trim work through the rest of the house was painted white years ago…)

At this point I would like to remind you of my mantra/tagline.  Sawdust 2 Stitches “Where we can’t leave well enough alone”.  It’s true. Might not be healthy, but true nonetheless.

So let me show you the tip I would suggest using if you are considering new carpet! Go big and give the whole room the refresh you have been putting off.

Think about it,  you are replacing the carpet, and removing  a majority of the furniture and decor items from the space in preparation for the install.  Why not take advantage of that and PAINT!

Here are my baseboards.  I know it is hard to tell in the images, but they are actually an off-white.  I want them brilliant white.  Plus when I originally painted the walls, I did not use much care, because I was planning on painting the baseboards regardless. 

Next I added my Frogtape,  so that I could create that nice crisp professional paint line. Next I  prepped my paint sprayer.  You can also do this with a paint brush, but with a sprayer  this project can be done in MINUTES!
  That’s pretty much the extent of the prep work.   All I did was hold up a piece of paneling that would shield the wall from paint.  Then I sprayed! Without needing to going over the top draping furniture, and cover flooring it took what would have been a several day job  into an afternoon project!

Okay, so crossing off tedious paint jobs before new carpet is definitely a trick I would suggest you  take advantage of.  Heck if you have been considering painting in general (walls or ceiling) NOW is the time.  Do it when you don’t have to worry about the prep work.  I honestly believe projects are 75% prep work, especially in regards to painting.

Can I tell you how great it felt to have the room looking fresh as they installed the carpet ?! 

 

It’s amazing how quickly  a room can transform.  Using the aforementioned painting hack, and The Home Depot install service you can have an entirely new space in less than 24 hours.  Unbelievable!

Okay, are you ready to see my beautiful blank slate !?


 In a little under 24 hours  a room went from a place  I tried to avoid,  to an oasis that I didn’t want to leave!  I gave myself an hour to lie on the fresh carpet… but I  had everything to update this room waiting  to be brought in!  Want to see what I did with this space!?  Head over to The Home Depot blog to see the entire reveal!

In the meantime want to see the rest of the upstairs with  the new carpet!?  Yeah you do!

I think one of the spaces I was most excited for the new carpet was the stairs.  Silly I know,  but  the  stairs are the first thing when you walk in my home.   The carpet on the stairs was in horrible condition and clashed with all the colors on the lower level.  Not anymore!

Previously the guest room had a huge rug to try and hide the stained carpet.  With the new carpet  I 86’d the rug and let the room feel fresh and open. 


The boys room,  I figured would take  a little more abuse so I just dealt with the old carpet.    However this new carpet. completed changed the feels of their room!

Plus knowing that I have the LifeProof  guarantee I have zero concerns!   This carpet is meant to be lived on and they are willing to back it up with a 25 year guarantee.  

If you want to hear more about why I chose this specific carpet make sure you get all the details here. 

Thanks fro following along,  and “Take Luck”.

Corey

 

Florist Studio /Craft Studio

I know I have said it before, BUT  this is my favorite project ever!  You may have been following this  project journey on Instagram,  but if you are joining  us for the first time  let me catch you up to speed.  (You can always watch my Instagram Stories saved to my Florist Studio Highlights  as well.)

My Grandma is one of the sweetest souls you will ever meet.  She is also one of the most creative people  I have ever met. I  strongly believe that  genetics can play  a role in our talents and abilities. She is a very creative woman, as is my Mother, and  I believe have them to thank in part for cultivating my love to creatre. Well, recently, my Grandma and I were discussing her florist studio/craft room. We were JUST TALKING  about good storage systems and she asked for any recommendations  I might have…  haha boy did I EVER!

After a few brainstorm sessions, I  notified her I would be paying her a visit. 🙂

I was like a dog with a bone when it came to  ideas for a space designated to CREATING!   Little did she know I had some ideas that I just had to see  come to life.  The biggest hurdle would be  the distance.  You see, she lives in Michigan (close to my childhood home), and I have since moved to Florida.  But what is a little distance when you have creative juices flowing !

In order to make this work effectively,  I decided to build all the pieces in Florida and tow them up to Michigan in an enclosed trailer.  Let me show you the major pieces that were designed and built custom just for this “florist shop”!

(I do have build plans for this Ikea Trofast Storage Unit available  here. )

 I  knew she needed as much storage as possible, but she also needed  plenty of open workspace.  A mobile island was just the ticket.  It would allow for flexibility and maximize practicality.   The last build  was the (in my opinion) the crowning jewel of this install.    I mean how on earth do you expect to have a “Florist Studio” without a full-blown flower display ?   I insist that you can not!

Building all these pieces was a blast, but the journey had just begun!  I had already  enlisted the help of one of my MOST FAVORITE humans in the whole world, Jenn (AKA Build-Basic).  To make things even better,  luck would have it that  our close friends Jamie and Jamison from Rogue Engineer live in a neighboring city!  We have all known each other for years, and take any chance we have to work together!  Can I just say how much I love the maker community and the tribe/family that we have become?

Once we arrived in Michigan, it was all hands on deck!  Jamison, Jenn, and I were a blur  of power tools,  and custom-builds.  While I TRIED to come as prepared as possible there were a few details that I plum ran out of time for… enter Grandma. As I stated earlier she is a wonderful artist, and I “NEEDED” some custom botanical prints. I had it in my head. I could see it.  So I shamelessly put my Grandma to work. *Spoiler Alert* her work did not disappoint! 

With Grandma’s help,  I was halfway through accomplishing my wall art…but I also needed some custom frames. So we buttoned up loose ends at my Grandma’s and headed over to Rogue Headquarters for a quick project.

In all of 30 minutes of work we had custom frames that would compliment  my Grandma’s handiwork  and complete the space.

Didn’t they turn out beautiful?  

 After a late night of staging, and a quick photo session this space was done. D.O.N.E. Done!

Let’s take a moment to appreciate the beauty  in the details. Shall we ?

 

Okay, okay, without further ado,  let me show  you what all the fuss was about. 


Like I said before , this has been hands-down my favorite project to-date. Creating a space for a “creative” was a BLAST  in-and-of-itself. But to be able to do it for someone  I love,  surrounded with people dear to me was the absolute best!

All-in-all it was such an amazing experience.  There were so many people pitching in to make it happen and I can’t thank them all enough!  My Mom kicked into full-on “Nana Mode” to help with the tricky logistics of my children, she entertained and logged more hours driving then any Nana ever should for her Grandbabies.  We had Aunts, Uncles and Cousins planning activities and entertaining aforementioned kiddos. Friends traveling,  brainstorming, and building. Awesome brands like DAP, Purebond that were eager to be apart of such a fun project. (You can see full build plans brought to you by DAP here.)  Then of course all of the awesome folks like yourself that have followed along and given encouragement every step of the way. There were so many moving parts to this install and I think that is what made it so special. .

Thanks for following along, and “take luck”!
Corey

 

Trofast Ikea Bin Base Unit

*This post is sponsored by DAP and does contain affiliate links. 

When designing my Grandma’s florist studio, I was trying to make the space as economical and as versatile as possible. I wasn’t entirely certain how much space she would need, and what drawer sizes would be optimal. So, I tried to plan for ANY scenario. After a lot of brainstorming I designed this IKEA Trofast Bin Base Unit. By utilizing bins  it would allow her to swap out and rearrange  the bucket sizes, AND  I it would also accomodate shelves that she could use if she needed/preferred.


To bring this build to life, I teamed up with the great folks at DAP!

This build is an inexpensive and quick alternative to building a traditional dresser, not to mention the versatility that is offers is unparalleled for the price.  (Can I also add, that this may be the classiest use of plastic  bins I have ever seen!)
I ultimately ended up building two of these units and fastened them together to make a MEGA Trofast IKEA base unit.

Complete Build Plans Here

1.) Prep boards

Cut all boards  to the dimensions designated in cut list.  For the body of this unit I used 3/4″  Purebond Birch Plywood. (It really is a beautiful board and would look beautiful stained as well.) 

2.)  Band Edging

This is an optional step.  I wanted a nice finished edge on my unit so I decided to band the front exposed edge of all of my vertical boards.  (It is much easier to do before the unit is assembled.)

3.) Rip Down Slides

This is also an optional step.  You can ABSOLUTELY  use 1″x2″. boards as is.  I just wanted something a little more streamlined,  so I ripped down my slides/supports to 1″ as opposed to 1 1/2″ boards.  It is also  more cost efficient to do them 1″ wide.  I was able to rip down a 1″x4″  board into 1″  segments and  create 3 boards from the single 1″x4″ board.  (Illustrated below)

4.)Install Slide/Supports

When installing the supports  I always like to use a spacer.  A spacer is a board that is cut to the proper dimension (space in-between boards) and you use it to space out your supports. ( Get it?  The “Spacer” creates the same uniform space repeatedly.)

To properly install them I always use a liberal amount of DAP Wood Glue.  This would be strong enough to support the IKEA bins alone,  but it would need to be clamped while it cured.  I am not a patient person and I prefer to tack it in place with a brad nailer to “clamp it”.

Once the slides are installed I  use DAP Plastic Wood to fill any nail holes left from the brad nailer.  I give it quick once over with my sander and these babies are ready to be assembled!

5.) Assemble Base

Click here for full build plans.

 

6.) Counter Top

I tried some thing a little different this time in regards to the countertop.  In the past I have used 3/4″ plywood and then used 1″x2″ boards to beef up the edges.  Well I tried something a little different this time and I LOVE it.

Instead of using a board, I found some  1 1/2″ birch edge banding online. All I needed to do was to add a 3/4″ lip to the underside of my counter top.   (Make sure you cut your countertop so that you have an extra 1 1/4″  on all edges you wish to use this application.)

For the 3/4″ lip I referenced earlier, I just ripped down a piece of plywood 3/4″ wide.  I then  cut it to fit the outer edges of my counter top board.

I then glued down the lip to bottom of the outer edge.

Then I ironed on the edging to the now 1 1/2″ thick lip.   It creates a seamless edge that makes the 3/4″ plywood appear to be a slab countertop!

Once the countertop and the base unit were assembled  all it needed was little bit of paint and stain.

For the base units I used Sherwin Williams “CityScape” and for the counter tops I used “Early American” by Minwax.

I used my FujiSpray Semi-Pro to spray all the units for this install, and I LOVE it!

Okay, here they are in all their glory!  This unit was designed to go in a larger florist studio,  so I actually built 2 of these units and made a longer countertop to make it appear to be one large unit.

Full Build Plans Available Here.

 I’d like to think that it worked beautifully!

 Want to see more of this space?  Check out the full reveal here!

Master Closet Makeover



This project is in my top 3 favorite projects I have ever completed.  I am not going to lie,  I sometimes just go and sit in my closet and bask in it’s awesomeness.  Truth be told  I am not a fashion addict, but  you better believe I am completely obsessed with organization.  If you  have been following along you are well aware,  that  my  master closet was just “meh”.  It came with builder grade wire shelving, and in my opinion it DID NOT maximize the space in the room.  So,  in true Corey fashion  I simply could not “leave well enough alone”. I teamed up with the great folks at DAP  gave it the facelift it deserved.

Now,  if you are just joining us, make sure you check  these other tutorials  detailing the process of this makeover!

  • How to Case a Window
  • How to Build a Built-in Dresser
  • Horizontal Dresser Build Plans (Coming Soon)
  • Tall Dresser w/Laundry Hampers (Coming Soon)

 

Well without further ado,  let’s dive into the last leg of the master closet renovations.  After the dressers were built and the window was cased I was left with my favorite part.  The BUILT-INS!  When orchestrating this closet I  designed  95% of this units to be stand alone, so that I could build them in my shop and then just bring them inside when it was time to install.  (It makes for a lot less walking.) So once main focal point was built (dresser),  I began working on the remaining wardrobe style units. 

Building a wardrobe is essentially building a cabinet carcass.  In fact if you are a little timid to build your first  dresser or cabinet  then building and open style cabinet (Like a closet wardrobe) would be a GREAT place to start!  It essentially only consists of solid sides, and base, and then typically it will have rails that support the top and the back.  It really is that simple!  Deep breaths,  cabinets are just boxes.  You can choose to notch out the base to serve as a toe kick or you can also take another route and just layout a platform that all the cabinets will sit onto.  I actually  use both methods depending on the situation.   (I won’t be giving build plans for these wardrobes,  simply because the odds of someone needing these specific dimensions are minuscule at best.)  


Time for more boxes.

So as I was building these units  I started to doubt my own measurements.   Everything looked so HUGE.  So,  if you struggle visualizing or want a reference of size here is a tip for you:  FrogTape Painters tape!  I  took measurements of the closet and mapped out an outline on the floor of my shop using tape.  It gave  me a really great visual when I was configuring dimensions for all the shelves.  Once I had my space mapped out a little better I proceeded full steam ahead!

 I ended up building another dresser that would also act as our laundry hamper. (Build Plans Coming Soon.)   I also added three more large wardrobe units.  I created a very long wardrobe that I stacked on top of my second dresser.   Also, after laying out the space with tape I realized I did in fact have space for some shallow shelves.  Far too shallow for any clothing,  but perfect for shoes!

Once everything was built I was ready to move this party inside! I actually carried all the units to the back porch without backing on them. Once I had them closer to the final destination I attached a thin piece of 1/4″ paneling to the back. (Made  it a little less awkward to carry.)
Once all the backs were in place, it was go time! For the most part the pieces all went in without a hitch.  Every once in a while  I would need to shim a piece here and there,  but overall  it fit like a glove!

 

Once all the units were installed I did  use some beefy bolts to secure all the units to the walls and then I used 1 1/4″  screws to secure the units to each other.  These suckers aren’t going anywhere! Next on the docket ?   Making the shelves.  This was a simple process. I made all the shelving cabinets with adjustable shelf pins.  So to mae the shelves all I needed to do was cut the 3/4″ ply wood to size and add a piece of 1″x2″ to serve as a lip.  I just attached the lip using DAP wood glue, then tacked them in place using a 16 ga. nailer.  Then I  just filled the nail holes using DAP Plastic Wood, sanded, and wiped down and they were ready for paint!

After the shelves were complete I finished up working  on the face frames for all the units.   This is such a rewarding part.  You really start to see everything come together, and you are able to hide a lot of discrepancies; however it still isn’t perfect, yet…

Once all the trim work is finished is the time to bring in my “magic eraser’ for trim work,  caulk! Even the worst of gaps can melt away when DAP caulk is utilized properly. If you are interested to see more about where and how I used it make sure you check out my Instagram Stories here. OR if you are interested in learning on how to trim out a room and use caulk,  use my tutorial here. 

Once my first pass at caulk was done,  I prepped the area for paint.  I used Frogtape to tape off any surface that would not be painted. In this case that was very little. I only needed to cover the floor and the window panes.  The rest I intended to spray, ceiling and all! Once the first coat of paint was on, it was more than obvious what joints I missed.  But  it clearly  also reinforces my prior statement,  “DAP caulk is like a magic eraser for trim work”.
After  I made a second pass with my Caulk gun, I like to prep all my surfaces before coating again.   To prep the surface like to go over all the painted surfaces with a sanding sponge  and wipe down.  This simple steps helps ensure a smooth finish. You can read more about the process here.

  The painting was the  last thing that needed to happen before I could begin installing all the hardware… and honestly the hardware was one of the most exciting parts!   You see,  when I first  the master closet when we were walking the house with the realtor,  I kept thinking man those are tall ceilings.   They would be so perfect for a “Beauty and the Beast” library ladder.  Well  fast forward three years, and I am finally installing my rolling ladder.  I actually designed the entire closet layout with a rolling ladder in mind.  The rolling ladder would allow me to reach all my upper cabinets,  plus they are just straight up cool!

After looking online,  I found that Rockler Woodworking had one that was just the ticket!  You can get all the details here.

It was basically a kit that you fill in the questionnaire and it tells you what all you will need for you specific  space.

Once the ladder was installed  I was pretty much done… which pretty much bring us  to the reveal .  So are you ready  to see the  grand reveal!?!?!  Heck yeah,  you are.  So without further ado.

 

 Well there you have it folks!  My completely transformed master closet!  I am already loving the optimal level of organization this build encourages. Now that this space is done,  it has me rethinking every single closet in my home.  I’m thinking my walk-in pantry could use a little help…  we will see.  Until next time.

Take Luck,

Corey

Built-In Dresser Closet


This post is sponsored by DAP*

Hey all!  Coming  at you midway through my master closet makeover. I have been working around the clock  on my master closet makeover and it is paying off! Last week I cleared out the closet and got it down to ground zero. All the holes are filled, and I have a beautiful window casing. All it needs now is some storage and organization.  So this past week I have been working on some dresser that will house all the clothing that will not be hanging in the (future) built-in wardrobe space. 

To create this custom space I am teaming  up with the great folks over at DAP to create this completely custom dresser! The thing I love about this design, is it could EASILY be built as a stand alone dresser, or you could take a page out of my book and build it specifically  for a gorgeous walk-in closet.

So let’s get started!

Sides

When designing this dresser,  I wanted to maximize the drawer space without loosing my design aesthetic.   I opted for a frameless style dresser. (Which means it does not have a wider face frame attached, and typically means the drawers are inset.)  I used 3/4” paneling as my dresser sides.  A nice plywood is perfect for this type of build, the only drawback is the exposed ply on the sides.  Seeing as the sides would be visible I opted to band my edges.

This  is a fairly straightforward process. I prefer the “ pre-glued Iron-on” variety.  As you can see in the image below the bottom board has the edging applied, whereas the top does not. 

The edging is great but I find every once in awhile there is a seam  in the banding! Most of the time I try to work around these seams but every once in awhile one sneaks in there and I don’t notice it until after the fact. Now, I suppose I could rip it off and start again,  but I have found an option that works fabulously.  DAP Plastic Wood to the rescue!  Just add a small amount of DAP Plastic Wood to the seam and allow to dry. Once dry, lightly sand with a fine grit sanding sponge.  It makes the seam all but disappear! BOOM BABY! Next up?  The Rails for the dresser.  I love how quickly the carcass of a dresser goes together! Just a few boards and it reallly starts to look like a dresser. When attaching my boards, I prefer to glue them up and use pocket holes to secure.

 Once the dresser carcass was complete it was time to move on to the boxes.  I like a very simple sturdy approach,  I  use 1/2” plywood for the bottom and the sides.   I utilize pocket holes on the bottom of the drawer boxes to attach them the drawer box sides.
I hate to admit it but I am really rough on our drawers, so I make sure to reinforce  all my joints with wood glue.  I have also found that  to save myself clamping, I can use Rapid Fuse to  glue up the entire drawer box and then come through and add pocket holes to reinforce.  It’s awesome and I don’t have to use any form of right angle clamps!

When using  plywood for drawer boxes you will have an exposed ply on the edges.  Again, I like to just add a fine layer of DAP Plastic wood.  Once it is dry,  just smooth over it with a sponge sander. Voila,  a nice smooth finish.


 Drawer glides are installed and ready to go!  When installing drawer glides I always use Rockler Drawer Glide Jig. It makes the entire process go much smoother.
Now it’s time to add the drawer box fronts.  Typically,  I would use  a Kreg Jig to drill the handle holes, but with these extra long handles that I selected, I needed a wider set jig. So I measured and carefully marked the placement and then used a jig to ensure that the holes were square.

G When installing drawers, I like to use the ol’ trusty card trick. It’s a quick way to get even spacing when installing an inset door. If you want to see how I do this, just watch this short clip on my InstaGram Stories.

Once all the drawer fonts are attached,  I then added hardware.

Here is where  you can get creative!  By making a few simple changes you can COMPLETELY  change the look of this dresser!  Seeing as I built this to go in my closet as part of a built-in series,  I designed it to be cohesive with the rest of the closet.  So instead of putting a  foot on it,  I put it on, a raised platform identical to the ones I plan on using for the rest of the closet.

That being said,  you can easily add any number of different style legs to make this dresser fir your needs!

 

The last thing I needed to add before  painting and staining,  is the dresser top!  I just used a piece of 3/4″ birch plywood for my top!  I wanted to create  just a LITTLE bit of visual weight to the top so I banded the edge with a strip of wood I ripped down on my table saw.  Banding the edge with iron-on edging would have sufficed, but the strip of wood added  the weight it needed and also by using wood glue, and some Rapid Fuse  I can rest  easy knowing this susceptible edge is secured!

 That pretty  much  sums it up!  If you want to build one of your own,  I can help you with that!   The build plans will be up and available shortly.  In the meantime make sure you follow along on Instagram Stories for more behind the scene sneak peaks of the master closet makeover!

Casing a Window: An Easy Way to Cover the Jamb

This post is sponsored by DAP*

Hey all!  As you probably know, I have an inability to leave well enough alone. Take my master closet for example.  It is a decent size, ample amount of shelving, high ceilings, AND plenty of natural sunlight. Most people would consider this a win in regards to closets.  Me?  I see potential!  Sure it has decent size;  but is it being utilized? Yes, it has standard shelving that serves its purpose;  but is there a better option in regards to material and layout!? Yes, it has high ceilings,  but could that height be better accentuated?  Yup!  There is definitely  room for improvement. I definitely have my work cut out for me,  but right now we are going to focus on the latter of the aforementioned list.  The natural lighting.  Yes, this closet has a large window that allows for plenty of natural light,  but it is not much to look at. In my head I have dreams of this window being a focal point, and so I must beautify that window!

In order to tackle this project, I am teaming up with the great folks over at DAP.  If you have ever considered  upgrading the trim in your builder grade  home, then. you are going to want to head to you local Home Depot and stock up on DAP products.  They have you covered from drywall repair, to exterior window sealant!  Today I will be showing you how you can take a knock down textured window jam,  to a high end custom look.

 Remove Pre-existing Trim and/or Sill

In our home there were not any window casings at all.  In it’s place was just textured drywall that wrapped where the window jam would be. However,  we do have standard marble window sills.  You can deal with this however you would like.  I don’t like them and chose to rip them out instead of working around it.  They are typically installed with just a little bit of adhesive and with a little coaxing (and by “little coaxing” I mean beat it out with a hammer).   Lot’s of times if you hit the underside lip with a rubber mallet you can remove it in just a few pieces. Careful marble shards can be sharp!

 

Covering Window Jam

 

Ok, this is the step a lot of people  don’t address  when they advertise  “DIY window casing”.   They often times will leave the interior of the window casing the same texture of the wall. I find this very unattractive.  There are other more professional alternatives ( knocking out the drywall completely and replacing it with a board), however  I have used this system quite a bit and I am happy with the results.  It is more of a happy medium result. With  novice on one side, and professional installer on the other.

So to cover the textured knock down I am going to use a piece of 1/4″MDF paneling.  You can pick this up in 4′ x 8′ sheets at your local Home Depot

Before you  start cutting  you are going to need to take lots of measurements.  Now in an ideal world where all home builders are perfect and all walls are level and square, this would not be necessary.   One would think that the same width and height would apply to both sides of a window.  Not so.  So again,  I would  take your measurements very seriously.  I even measure at several different points in regards to the width! Again, not all walls are perfect and sometimes it shows drastically when trying to do something detail oriented like casing a window.  Next I took the measurements and transferred that to my 1/4″ MDF board and cut them down on my table-saw.

Once the width is cut you can move on to the lengths.  I like to cut these to fit.  As we discussed before,  sometimes a home isn’t square so the measurements are a little off.  Well  I found my windows to not be square so I had to make some minor adjustments.  I actually prefer cutting to fit.  So I brought my handy little trim miter saw and just cut everything in place. 

Install MDF Trim

 

Once everything has been dry fit (checked that it fits before installing)  I moved onto the actual installation process. In cases like this where I am working with a somewhat flimsy board I like to secure it with a good construction adhesive.  I have recently gotten hooked on DynaGrip by DAP.  This stuff is thick and it means business!  It is great especially when I am working by myself (which is 95% of the time).  This adhesive is so thick  that it literally just GRIPS the wall.  I can put it up on the wall and can grab my finish nailer and tack in a few nails just to hold it while the adhesive cures.  It is awesome. (HIGHLY recommended when  installing Faux Shiplap)Once in place, I like to tack it in place with my finish nailer.  At this point it should be looking a little something like this. 

Install Sill

To create a sill I used a piece of primed 1″x 6″ finger board from The Home Depot. Now,  this is all a matter of preference.  I wanted this to be low profile and not have a lip that extended  out and over the lower apron (the trim piece that will go around the perimeter of the window. Instead I wanted this to be mostly flush with the window casing.   The reason being,  this window is not a standard window casing, this is going to be apart of  built-ins in the closet.  So I do not want to have any corners and edges that I need to cut around. I need a nice straight edge to butt my built-ins next to. Make sense ?

Ok, so I begin my cutting my window sill board to fit. Once fit I have a few other dimensions to work around.   In this case the window itself was a double window and there was a center rail that cut right into the middle of my sill board.  So while in place I transferred the dimensions to my board using a pencil. (Pay no attention to the look of absolute filth in the window.   That was where the sill was and below is concrete and residue.  All is hidden or cleaned up  now. ) Many prefer to cut out notches with a jigsaw.  I prefer a tablesaw set to the right depth, and use a series of cuts.

Next, I needed to cut this board to fit.  As of right now it fit in the width and sat flush against the window. With it sitting against the window I measured to the outer edge of the window and cut my sill to that measurement.

Then drop it in place and add some DynaGrip and you are good to go!

 

Add Perimeter Casing

Now to case the window.  You have seen this a million times before.  You can add craftsman style trim, you can dress it up,  you can dress it down.  But as for this project we are going super minimal. As I said earlier,  I merely want to make this window look a little more polished seeing as it will have  fancy closet shelving built up to it.  So instead of a typical 1″x 4″ and something beefier on top, I use 1″x 3″ all the way around.

I like to start by tacking a board on the top and bottom of the window.  I place them exactly where I plane to put them permanently, this should literally take 2 seconds to put up and take down.  This will serve as a a marker for the length and cut of the side casings. As we have discussed earlier,  one would naturally think that both of these side pieces would be the same, or at the very least square. Nope.  That is what I  like to temporarily install my top and bottom pieces first.

Once the side  1×3’s are cut and dry fit,  I attached them using the DynaGrip and then attaching with 2″  18 gauge nails.   Repeat on all sides. 

 

Make It Pretty

At this point the window casing might be looking a little less than perfect.  That is OK!  We still have quite a few tricks up our sleeves.  First issue we want to address is the holes we created when nailing any of the trim pieces to the wall.  This is a quick fix with DAP Plastic Wood.  It is filler that is shrink and crack resistant,  sand-able and paint-able.  All of which are non-negotiable when it comes to finish work.  Once all the holes are filled allow to dry. 

Once the Plastic Wood is dry use a foam sanding block to level the surface. So long as you didn’t slather it on too heavily this should be a fairly quick and painless process.  Then wipe it down thoroughly with a clean damp cloth. 

As I have said repeatedly,  our walls and windows were not installed straight. With that  there were quite a few in-discrepancies.  That is where DAP Caulk comes to the rescue.  Believe me,  even the most seasoned worker relies on this stuff.  It is a magic eraser for trim work.  It can make a huge gap completely invisible.  Check out the image below.  There we are few fairly noticeable gaps where the trim met the wall. With a quick pass with caulk it was all but disappeared.  Once you add paint  the gaps are completely unnoticeable.  Which is a great segway into our last step. Just add paint!

 I taped it up with some good ole’ Frogtape and painters paper and sprayed it.  It took about  3 coats and it looked fantastic.
 In between coats of paint I took the opportunity to start preparing the rest of the closet for renovations.  I wanted to get it down to “ground zero”.  In order to do that I had a lot of holes to fill. I mean  A LOT!  So. I pulled out some  Alex Plus Spackle and had them all filled in no time flat.
   I must say with just filling the holes and casing the window this place is already looking infinitely better, but we aren’t stopping there!  No, no,  I have so many great pans for this space so stay tuned because this makeover is going to mind blowing in epic proportions. 

Seriously though,  just look at this picture.  See the texture of the wall?  The window jamb use to be THAT!  Night and day difference and it only took an afternoon.  Time well spent by every account. 

 Thanks so much for following along, and stay tuned.  The party is just getting started.

  Take Luck,

 Corey

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