I have been on the hunt for an affordable over the garage trellis option. After searching high and low I ultimately decided a budget friendly garage trellis did not exist. Instead of wasting more time searching I put on my thinking cap and designed and built my own affordable and aesthetically pleasing over the garage trellis!

Cut Boards for Corbels

Cut all necessary boards. (Determined by the desired number of corbel/brackets.) In my case I utilized a total of three brackets to span over a 2-car garage entry.  I used to “Large” corbels for the sides, and one “Small” corbel as a center support. 

Drill Holes

I found that it was very helpful using a speed square accurately mark the hole placement.  Word to the wise, mark the placement for all the corbels at the same time.  This will ensure that the holes will all line up when ultimately run the poles through the corbels. 

*Something to consider:  Before drilling determine the best size bit for your rods.  I used inexpensive IKEA curtain rods.  These rods worked best when I used a 7/8” paddle bit to dill out the hole. 

 I opted to use a drill press; this required a lot of resituating the depth of the drill as I drilled through the board.  While it required a little work, I highly recommend using a drill press. 

If using a drill press is not possible, a drill is still an option. It will just require a very level and steady hand. 

Another Option:  Drilling straight holes through the entirety of the 5.5” board is definitely the trickiest part of this build, there are a few ways to adjust the skill level.  Using a 2×4” board as opposed to a 2×6” board will make the step easier.  It will change the overall aesthetics, but it is an option. 

Cut Chamfered Edge on Corbel Board (Optional)

 I opted to add a chamfered edge to the ends of my boards.  This is not a necessary step, I simply wanted to jazz up my corbels. You can achieve this look. By either using a router or a table saw. 

In order to create a chamfer edge, I set my table saw blade on a 45 degree angle. In order to prevent cutting my rip fence I used clamps to secure a scrap board to the fence. 

Sand and Seal Corbel Boards

Before assembling I sanded all my boards and then treated them with and exterior stain and sealer. 

I used Olympic Elite exterior Stain and Sealant in the color “American Chesnut” I used this same stain when I created my “Vertical Planter” and I loved it so I used it again.

Construct Corbels

Using 4” exterior use screws secure the horizontal board to the (soon to be wall mounted) vertical board.  Reference the PDF Plan(s) to see the designated measurements. 

Secure Corbels to Wall

 In my case I will be attaching my trellis brackets to our stucco/block home.  Seeing as I will be drilling into concrete, I’ll need to take a few extra steps. In order to secure it into masonry I will need to use a sleeve anchor.  They are basically a mollie for concrete. I am using a 4” long by 1/2” diameter sleeve anchor. 

To use these anchors, I need to drill a ½” hole to accommodate the sleeve. I drilled a hole at both the top and the bottom center of my brackets. 

BEFORE YOU GET DRILL HAPPY…  take the time to check, double-check, and triple-check the placement of the corbels.  They will need to be perfectly level in order to accommodate the poles that will run through them.  I began by installing my center bracket first and then took careful measurements to figure out the positions of the side corbels. 

Once the holes were drilled in the bracket, I positioned the bracket in the desired location.  While holding the bracket in place I used the holes pre-drilled as a template for drilling holes in the masonry. 

Drilling holes in masonry is not as scary as it sounds, so long as you use the right tools. I suggest a ½” masonry bit and a “hammer drill”.  (Pictured below is a “Rotary Hammer Drill”.) 

 I drilled a hole approximately 3” deep into the masonry. This measurement considers the length of the anchor and the depth of the bracket board

After hole is drilled into masonry, insert the anchor sleeve through the wooden bracket and into the hole drilled in the masonry.  It should be a snug fit but should slide in without the use of tools. (If necessary. use a rubber mallet to tap into place.)

Once the anchor is in place use a wrench to tighten the anchor.  The anchor will expand as you tighten the bolt ensuring that the bracket is securely attached to the wall.   

    I knew I wanted the hardware to all be black, however I also knew that painting them before tightening the bolts would scratch up the paint job. Instead, I installed all the hardware and then cut a 1” hole in a scrap piece of paneling and used it to mask off the rest of the corbel and expose the unpainted nut. I used a satin black paint and primer and it worked like a charm. 

Almost done!  In order to complete the over the garage trellis we needed to connect our  corbels. To do this I used inexpensive  curtain rods from Ikea.  I found that they worked excellent and the fact that the could extend made it a great option.  

Another great option would be using ½” electrical conduit.  I liked using the curtain rods because they came with everything I needed to add finials (end caps),  but fear not I have a tutorial  how-to add finials to electrical conduit curtain rod here. 

 Once all the rods are in place, add finials (if desired) and add a vining variety plant. I opted for Bougainvillea that I purchased a few month prior to building my over the garage trellis.   In order to help it reach the new corbels I did build a small trellis that would bridge distance between the corbels and the ground. 

 That just about wraps up yet another homerun DIY project.  I had looked into over the garage trellis options for years and never found anything affordable.  I’d like to think that I knocked this inexpensive DIY out of the park. 

 Thanks for following along. 

Take Luck, 

Corey

Make it easy to organize your projects by Pinning it !

The post Add Character by Adding a Gorgeous DIY Garage Trellis appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

If you have been around for a little while you are aware of my recent Master Bathroom Renovation. I love everything about the new bathroom setup, but admittedly I do miss my seated vanity area. As ugly as the layout use to be, I still missed sitting to do my hair and makeup. Well I had a crazy idea that would convert a cabinet into a seated vanity area. I already converted the drawer into extra make up storage . ( You can get all the details here.)

Next thing I needed to was to figure out my hot tool storage. I am lucky enough to have DAP as a great sponsor that allows me to create and share awesome content like these build plans for Hot Tool Storage!

If you would like access to complete build plans for this “Hot Tool Storage Drawer” are available here.

Prepping Materials

When using build plans I like to  begin by preparing all my boards according to the provided cut list.  (If you would like full build plans they are available here.)

I find that reading through the plans completely is always a huge help, especially when the project includes small pieces and specialty cuts.

Hot Tool Storage Assembly

When designing the Hot Tool Storage Drawer I found the actual assembly process to be very tricky! With small pieces and close quarters it makes using a drill and nail gun extremely difficult! That’s where my favorite DAP adhesives come into play!

Instead of trying to use a nail gun or use a drill and need to hide unsightly pocket holes DAP RapidFuse saved the day. It creates a super stron hold without using traditional metal fasteners. When using Rapid Fuse only a few dots! Rapid Fuse is very strong and forms an instant bond. I like to alternate dabs of it with DAP Weldwood.

The combination is remarkable. The RapidFuse holds instantly (within 30 SECONDS!) and the Welwood Wood Glue will cure and create a permanent continuous point of contact.

Can we say Dynamic Duo?!

Prep for Finish on Hot Tool Storage Drawer

Once the unit and base are assembled it’s time to make it pretty! I planned on painting this unit, and one thing I have noticed is this, paint makes most blemishes more noticeable. So, before I paint I use DAP Premium Wood Filler to fill any gaps, cracks or holes. It dries quickly and sands nicely that helps procure a perfect finish once painted.

Install Hot Tool Storage Drawer

This unit was designed to accommodate a 24″ deep cabinet, and I use every square inch of it! These plans utilize a 22″ full extension ball bearing drawer slide.

If you are new to installing drawer slides no worries! You can read more about my preferred method to install drawer slides in this project post.

The last thing necessary to install the unit is mounting the base in the cabinet. I try to make sure that there are at a minimum two fasteners with a strong hold to keep the unit from tipping out when the drawer slides are completely extended and the drawer is fully loaded.

*Extra*

I am ALL about the “Extra”. It says it right there in my tagline “I can’t leave well enough alone.” Its true. In true Sawdust 2 Stitches fashion I went over the top and added an outlet to the end cap of my unit. If you are interested in finding out more about how I included this is my build you can get more details in the Build Plans.

Well, there you have it, a functional, and dare I say BEAUTIFUL way to organize you hair accoutrements? A big shout out to my sponsors that help make this possible!

The post Hot Tool Storage/Organization Drawer appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Christmas in 2020

I think we can all agree 2020 has been an endless parade of unknowns. As a whole we have adapted, made changes, and tried to find our new norm. As a general consensus I don’t think that all these changes have been ideal. However, I will say that it has created lots of opportunities to try new things. Now more than ever is the perfect time to dive into DIY and create one-of -a kind gift for the Holidays! Today I’m going to show you how to make a Lazy Susan that doubles as a serving tray/charcuterie board, it would be the perfect gift for anyone who loves to host!

If you are looking for more great homemade gifts be sure you check out The Home Depot for more holiday gift ideas.. They have DIY gift ideas/tutorials that are a great and inexpensive ways to personalize holiday gift giving.

Tools Suggested:

• Router (Optional)
• Tape Measure
• Pencil 
• 1/8″ Drill Bit 
• 1/4″ Drill Bit 
• Drill and Phillips Bit 
• Finish Sander
• Paint Brush (or preferred stain and sealer applicant)

Materials Used: 

• 12″ Laminated Wood Round 
• 24″ Laminated Wood Round 
• 1/4″ Dowel Rod
• (x2) Lazy Susan Turntable
• Wood Glue
• Sand Paper 
• Stain 
• Polyurethane 

Materials

While there are many different materials one could use to create a tiered Lazy Susan, I opted to use two laminate wood rounds (12″ & 24″ ) and two “Lazy Susan Turntable(s)”.

Add Decorative Flourishes(Optional)

While adding decor is not a necessary part of this project, it it fun way to add your own touch to a personalized gift. There are many options such as painting, wood burning, or carving. I opted to add a small routed groove around the perimeter of each of my circle rounds. I felt like it gave it a more custom feel. ( In order to do this I created a simple jig that pivoted from a screw in the center of my wood rounds.)

Secure Turntable to Small Circle

Find the center of the small round board, and mark screw placement.

Pre-drill the previously marked screw holes with an 1/8th ” drill bit.

Secure turntable using 1/2″ screws.

Mark and Add Dowels

The end-goal for this project is to have two turntable trays that can be used independently or stacked for a tier effect. In order to have them stack securely I needed to add little pegs to prevent the top tier from shifting on the bottom tier.

In order to create the pegs I used a 1/4″ dowel rod and cut (x4) 3/4″ pieces.

Place the second Lazy Susan Turntable centered on the top of the large wood round. Use the turntable as a template to mark the placement of the LARGER holes. Using a 1/4″ drill bit, drill 1/2″ deep holes as straight as possible.

Now it’s time to place the pegs. Add a dab of wood glue to the bottom of the pegs and firmly push into place.

If necessary use a hammer to gently tap the dowels into the holes.

Alternate Option (Mark and Add Screws)

Now, if the dowel rod idea seems a little tricky, no worries I have got you covered. (You can do this!)

The point of the dowel rods is to hold the turntable in place . We can accomplish the same principle by adding a few small headed screws (placed the same way the dowels were). I opted for the dowel rods because they can be stained and are less obtrusive should someone wish to use the large one by itself.

Whether you opt to use the peg or screw method, the results are the same. These four screws/dowels will allow you to drop the small turntable tray on top without it shifting.

Secure Turntable to Large Circle

Use the same steps used to secure the first turntable to the smaller tray to the bottom of the larger wood round.

Sand

A great way to really personalize this gift is by adding some color! Before we start staining or painting I would suggest sanding both trays with some fine sandpaper.

Stain

As I said before, the finish is a great way to really personalize this gift! You can use their favorite color or if you can recollect what wood tones they use in their kitchen that is probably a safe bet!

Seal

Because this item could potentially be used for food items make suer you check your sealants before applying. The Home Depot has a handy list of “Food Safe Finishes” if you are at all uncertain of which product to use. Seeing as I used a stain first my best bet was using a “film finish” meaning that it will seal a previously stained surface. I used WaterBased Polyurethane. The biggest thing to ensure it is food safe is allowing it to cure completely before use.

You did it! How simple was that? Just two boards and two turntables and you have an impressive DIY gift that anyone would love!

Thanks for following along and make sure you check out all the other great gift ideas on The Home Depot’s website.

The post Lazy Susan Charcuterie Board appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

  I recently gave my home office a makeover.  Scratch that.  I recently  converted my office into a streamlined home office/ homeschool room.  

 The biggest hurdle when designing my office was incorporating  enough desks to accommodate my kiddos and myself.   I really wanted a built-in unit but that dream seemed unattainable. Or was it ?   I dreamed up a crazy idea, an idea so crazy it JUST MIGHT WORK?! Spoiler alert:  It TOTALLY worked and I am going to show you how. 

Remove Hardware

  The first thing that was necessary when modifying the cabinet was removing the drawer and it’s accompanying hardware.  This can be  typically be accomplished using a phillips bit screwdriver/drill. 

Modifying Cabinet Dimensions (opt.)

 Now,  if you are a little OCD and want to take this project one step further then read on.  If you are perfectly happy with  height and depth of your cabinets go ahead and skip to the next step.

Adjust Depth

 First,  determine the desired depth of your cabinet and then you measure and mark your cabinet. I  set up a board that would serve as a guide to run my circular saw along.  (Remember, do not place your guide on the line you need to cut,  you need to consider the distance from  the edge of your saw plate to the saw blade itself.) 

 Using the guide and the marked line cut the first side of your cabinet using a circular saw.  (Always wear proper safety gear!)  Repeat this step on both side of your cabinet. 

Once both sides are cut,  you can flip the cabinet upside down in preparation to cut the bottom.  This is where it gets a little tricky.   The sides of the base block the path of the circular saw, so I needed to get a little creative. I had to use a smaller circular saw, but a jigsaw or something similar would work well too. 

 Using one one of the above mentioned tools will require cutting a straight line by hand.  I would highly recommend drawing a straight line to use as a guide.   Even if the line is a little crooked,  it will be fine, this will be completely hidden. 

Add Supports

Once all sides of the cabinet are cut down supports are necessary.    I used a 1×3 board cut to the exact interior dimension and then drilled pocket holes on both ends to secure them. 

 I added a support on the very top ledge of my cabinet and also  one at the base. I did leave the back of the cabinet open.  This is totally personal preference.  You can add paneling to the back if you prefer,  just take the added depth into account when you are creating countertops and installing to the wall etc. 

Adjust Height

 If  you would also like to alter the height of your cabinet,  that is an option.  Again, not necessary, but an option.   If you opt to do this,  just use the same method used to cut the sides of the cabinet.  When I cut mine down I only removed 1.5″.  I still wanted there to be a toe kick area, but the 1.5″  made a huge difference when it can to the height of the pull-out desk drawers for my kids. 

Build Drawer Box

  In order to create a pull out desk,  I needed to create a sturdy  drawer.    Never made a drawer ?  No worries, it is simple!

Finding Drawer Box Dimensions

How to find the dimensions for your drawer:

• Drawer Base Width= Opening drawer dimensions  –  1″(drawer glides) –  1  1/2″ (1×4″ box supports) 
• Drawer Base Depth = Cabinet Depth Dimension – 1″( back clearance) – 3/4″ (back 1×4″ box support)-  1 3/4″(front hinge clearance) 
• Side Box Supports=  “Drawer Base Depth” dimension +  3/4″ (back 1×4 box support) 
• Back Box Support =  “Drawer Base  Width” dimension 

After  all the necessary boards are cut, it’s time to assemble.   Using a pocket hole jig  drill pocket  holes  around the perimeter of the base. (Excluding the front ledge.)  Also drill pocket holes on both ends of the “back box support” board as well.

 Using  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws secure the “back box support” to the back of the base.  Follow-up  by securing the “side box supports”  to  both sides.  Again securing with  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. 

 Look at that!  You made a box, that wasn’t so hard now was it ?  Next  thing we need to do is make it mobile!  Let’s add some drawer glides. 

Install Drawer Front

  First mark the desired location for the hinge,  taking into consideration the drawer glides that will be installed.  Once marked,  pre-drill in the allocated spots, then use the screws  that came with the hinges to install the first side of the hinge.  Repeat t his process for both hinges that will be attached the cabinet base.  (See below image as a reference.) 

 After the hinges are secured to the cabinet base I needed to attach the to my  drawer front.  

Something to consider: Keep in mind that the drawer will need to clear the doors that sit directly below it.  Test the spacing before installing the  drawer face. 

When  attaching the drawer front I found it easiest to clamp the drawer face directly to the front of the cabinet and then mark, pre-drill, and  then fasten with a  screw.  It ensured that I would have perfect placement!  Worked like a charm. 

Install Glides

Mark Glide Placement

   Before beginning the install process,  place your drawer box in the cabinet opening and mark out a  logical location fort eh glides to be installed.  ( If  the drawer glides are installed too high or too low there is a chance your box will not fit into the opening and will be stopped by the cabinet frame.) 

Something to consider:  When selecting your glides take into account the amount of weight they can hold and their length.  As  you saw earlier I shortened my cabinet and there fore shortened  my drawer.   Select a drawer glide based on the depth of your drawer box.  ( Mine is an 18″ deep drawer box, so I selected an 18″ drawer glide. 

Attach Glide to box

When installing drawer glides. I begin by removing the drawer glide rail and secure it to the box first.    This is a fairly simple process.  Place the front of the glide so that is flush with the box.  Then using a spacer screw with glide rail in place using the screws provided with your glides.  (See below image for clarification.) 

Install Glide to Cabinet

   Alright half-way  through  the tricky part.  See that’s not so bad ?   Let’s wrap this puppy up.  All we need to do now is install the second half of the glide.   The larger piece of the glide needs to be secured to the cabinet base.  

After a few learning experiences I finally have drawer glide install down to a science and this is my favorite way to install a drawer box.  

1.)  Cut and Add Spacers-   The spacers will need to be tall enough that  your  drawer box will not hit the hinges when the drawer is pulled out on the drawer glides,  but also short enough that the drawer box doesn’t hit the top of the opening. I cut mine approximately 1″ thick and 20 long. 

Place the guides under both sides of the drawer box. 

2.) After the spacers are resting on the front drawer support (under the drawer box)  clamp or  secure  the spacer to the cabinet so that the spacer (and thereby) the box are sitting perfectly level.  Repeat this process for both spacers on either side of the drawer. 

3.) After the spacer is securely attached it is time to install the drawer glide. ( As of right now the box is resting on top of the spacers with the glides already attached to the box.)  Before we can install the glide we need to make sure the front hinged drawer has enough space to close. (The hinges  I used required 1 1/4″ from the front ledge in order to close properly.)  

Once certain of  location mark  where the back of your glide should be. Use this same measurement and mark it on the other side as well.  Once marked, slowly slide the box forward so that the glide is extending. As the box and glide extend it should holes allocated for  screws. 

4.)  When the holes are visible it is time to start screwing the glide to the  cabinet interior. (Make sure the back of your glide is still  at your pre-marked measurement.   Once you have double checked go ahead and put in screws in the available hole cut outs.  Repeat this same process on both sides of the box. 

5.)   Hard part is over! Gently push the drawer forward again. ( It is still resting on the spacers,  but the glides should not be shifting because of the first set of screws that are installed.)   As you push the drawer forward it will expose more hole cut outs,  proceed to screw in the provided screws. 

6.) Repeat  step (5) until  the glides are completely extended. (The box should be completely  pulled out at this point.) 

7.) After all the screws are in, unclamp  the spacers and pull out from under the drawer. 

8.) You did it!  It should be a perfectly level install. 

 You did,  pat yourself on the back.  You converted a drawer into a desk!  If you are interested in how I created the rest of my built in unit or the countertops make sure you check out these posts.

The post How to: Convert a Drawer into Desk appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

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 I recently have been on a kick to “lighten up” the house.  It started innocently enough in the dining room. It then spread to the kitchen, and now the creep has entered the living room.  It was a beautiful space, but I was ready to change things up! 

 As a starting point, I decided to take out the darker Rustic Coffee Table and Book Shelf that. I built a few years ago.  I replaced the coffee table with something lighter,  but the space felt empty. It needed SOMETHING… 

 I didn’t want to add anything too intrusive that would close in the space again. After some thought I decided a HUGE mirror would be just the ticket. I needed a HUGE Restoration Hardware style statement mirror. 

However, the price tag on the Restoration Hardware Mirror,  left little to be desired… “Who needs them anyways!?”  Am I right ?  I figured it would be so much more satisfying to build my own, and then I would be able to share the process with you lovely people.  I am proud to be able to to team up with the great folks over at DAP. (It is by working with partners like DAP that I am able to continue to provide content to you!)

Well, after one quick perusal of Craigslist I found a FREE vanity mirror from a bathroom makeover. SCORE!  The one I used for this build was a 42″ x 72″.   These build plans could easily be modified to fit other size mirrors with a little math. 

Full Build Plans Here!

Lets’s get started! I first assembled the sides. When building this,  I knew I was going to need to take extra precautions to make sure that this frame would be solidly built and  fully support the HEAVY mirror.  I used DAP Wood Glue on all of my joints, and reinforced all of the weight bearing joints with Kreg Screws. 

If you would like to have FULL build plans, they ARE available at the bottom of the page. 

When applying the trim Rapid Fuse by DAP is ALWAYS my right-hand man.   I was able to quickly and seamlessly apply all of the cove molding without and crazy clamping strategies.  Just a few dabs and the cove molding was set! 

Once all the trim is installed, I was ready to prep for it’s finish.   For starters I used Plastic Wood by DAP.  I add just a small amount of this to each nail hole.  It  dries quickly, doesn’t shrink , and is stain-able.  It is perfect for woodworking projects. 

Once the wood filler was completely dry I completely sanded the entire mirror frame.  I used an orbital first, and then finished up with a “finish sander”. 

 There she is!  Isn’t she a beaut.  She is all filled, and sanded and ready for stain! 

Before I begin staining, I like to start with “Pre-Stain”.  “Pre-Stain” is a wood conditioner.    Using a wood conditioner can help eliminate splotchy stain finish and helps the stain penetrate at an even rate. (Less stripes and splotch.)  I hands down recommend using this on soft woods like Pine. 

Once the wood conditioner has completely dried, I like to go over the entire piece with a fine sanding sponge.  This will eliminate any “raised grain” that can occur when conditioning wood.  Once it is smooth I run over the entire thing with a lightly damp cloth and then allow it to completely dry before moving on. 

NOW we are ready to start the staining process, and yes it is a PROCESS!  I began with a light coat of “Golden Oak” by Minwax.  I did not let this sit on the wood very long.  I applied it and then immediately wiped it off.  I did not want to have this be a very dark finish. 

Once the “Golden Oak” had completely dried, I prepped the next layer of stain.   Minwax stain typically. is more of a wood penetrating stain.  It seeps into the wood.   I have found that Varathane Stain is a little more opaque and sits a little more at surface level. Both are great and I use them both for different projects. In this case I wanted to layer over the Minwax Golden Oak.   The Golden Oak would serve as my base color.  After some trial and error I found that mixing together Varathane “Golden Oak” and Sunbleached”, I had the perfect color for this project.   It was a 50/50 mix. 

In the image below I have applied the 50/50 mixture to the right hand side.  It just gives it a little depth of color that I was not able to achieve in just one color of stain. 

 As if two layers were not enough… Seriously,  I cannot leave well enough alone. I decided to really complicate matters and use a white wash stain to finish up the look. 

 For this step I used MinWax White Wash Pickling Stain.   I used a dry brush technique. (Use a stiff bristled brush, and add dab the brush into a very small amount of paint/stain.  Then wipe the brush off on  a cloth or paper towel,  removing a majority of the paint/stain.  Then brush it onto the intended surface.  It creates a streaky look, and that is the look I am going for.  I then used a cloth and wiped over the surface.  This blended it slightly, while still giving it a some visual texture.)  below you can see where I have used this technique on the top and far left board.  It gives it a little bit of depth and I love it! 

Once the mirror was dry, it was ready for the finishing touch.  The mirror!   The mirror will rest on a board installed across the bottom of the mirror frame.  The only thing left to do is to install back supports. 

 It really is a very beautiful and very heavy piece!  I would highly suggest securing this to the floor and/or the wall. That’s it you are done!

 I am so pleased with how this project turned out. It perfectly fills the space without making it feel claustrophobic.  It still feels light and airy and I love it. 

Full Build Plans Here!

The post How to Build: Large Floor/Leaner Mirror appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

“When the kids are in school full-time.” (The youngest  is currently finishing up second grade)

“When my workshop is complete.” (Completed a year ago, and for real when is a shop ever “finished”.  Amiright?!)

“When I have more time.” (Ha, if I was waiting for more time, I picked the wrong career.)

The list could go on and on and entail such menial things like, “washing my hair sounds like a lot of work”.  Honestly,  any excuse was better and easier than just diving in.

So, what changed?

Well about 3 years ago I met a friend.  Not just any friend.  One of those life longer, ride-or-die types. She is one of those friends who is willing to fly halfway across the country (only accepting a box of Cheerios as payment)  and hold your hand as she walks you through your own personal hell. In my case, YouTube.

If you don’t already know Jenn she has worked for some BIG deal names. Like …  I don’t know “This Old House”?!  She is actually so great at what she does, that  they asked her to head up a new branch of “This Old House” geared toward new home owners.  If you aren’t already tuned into “House One” you should be. If that isn’t enough, she also runs her own site “Build Basic” that is chocked full of creative content.  So make sure you head over to her site to see tons of fun new ideas INCLUDING plans for  today’s project.

We brainstormed some fun ideas, and came up with a very fitting project.  A project that would ultimately aid me in this new YouTube endeavor. We designed a new camera mount that would hang from the trusses in my shop.  By designing it this way, I would be able to move the mount/camera quickly, and easily to my different work stations. We also constructed it so that we could attach a monitor that would allow a live preview of what I was working on.   While we were at it, we also came up with a simple solution that would up my lighting game! So this project is really a “two birds with one stone” scenario. Not only are we sharing this project with you, but I also took the plunge into video content!

BUILD PLANS HERE

Without further ado.  Our first video produced specifically  for YouTube.

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                                                                                     Corey

The post DIY Ceiling Camera Mount appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Every once in awhile I will get on Pinterest and browse for ideas. It’s not very often,  on this given day I hopped on and looked up “laundry room”. I am not going to lie all the images of Laundry Rooms that had a bigger footprint than my living room made me drool a little bit, and I DON’T EVEN LIKE LAUNDRY!?!   I had gotten it into my head that “maybe if my laundry room was a little easier on the eyes I wouldn’t mind it so much.  In addition  lack of storage space, or even the space  to turn around without tripping on oneself would be a big step towards that goal.  So,  I dreamed up a way that I could maximize my tiny space without compromising aesthetics.    I basically only  had a big enough footprint to walk in and have the washer and dryer.  So I really needed to maximize that small space where the washer and dryer would sit. I would use all the space above it, and even BELOW them!  That’s right. I found a great way to store my laundry baskets and have over head storage by building a built in laundry platform and overhead shelving.  Bonus:  It even looks amazing!

A big thanks and shout out to this posts sponsor DAP.  It is because of excellent partnerships like these that I am able to continue to provide more content at no cost to my readers.

Tools Suggested: 

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• 18 gauge Nailer
• Drill
• Level
• DAP Plastic Wood
• DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
• Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

• 2×4’s
• 1×6″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
• 3/4″ Plywood
• 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
• 4″ screws
• Foam Sanding Block
• Damp Cloth
• Caulk Gun

Build Platform Frame:

A WORD OF CAUTION:  Now,  I don’t want to intimidate you, this is actually a fairly simple project,  but  you do need to be careful.   I cannot stress enough,  that you need to know  exactly where your studs are! Laundry rooms by nature have plumbing and electrical.  All of that plumbing and electrical has to live somewhere.  Spoiler alert;  they are all located in the walls running next to those studs we are trying to locate.  Now imagine if we accidentally  put a screw though a water line?  It could  potentially  be a fairly  big pain in the *ss.  So in order to avoid that situation,  I STRESS, know where your studs are.   You can do this by using a stud finder,  lots  of homes codes require they be positioned 16″ apart, but sometimes if the wall isn’t divisible by 16″  it can be  a little less reliable.  I just urge you to take the time to locate the studs and then clearly mark them with a pencil.

Begin by determining the height of  your pedestal.  I made mine 16″ tall.  I based that measurement off of  our laundry baskets.  The goal was to be able to easily slide  all my laundry baskets under my pedestals.  I began by using a a level and drawing a line at the predetermined height.  I then continued that line  on the two adjoining walls.  Believe me,  having a washer and dryer agitating on  the top of a sloped platform  does not sound ideal.

The first board I added was the back support.  I used standard 2×4’s  for the framing process.    I measure the width of the back wall and cut  my first board. ( You can build the entire platform and install the entire platform.  I did not do this BECAUSE my walls are not all square. I wanted a perfect fit so I cut all my boards to fit in place.)  Next I secured the board to the wall.  I used (x2) 4″ screws  and drilled through the 2×4 into each pre-marked stud location. If this makes you a little ansy,  feel free to extend the length of your screw or if you want to go bunker mode  use lag screws. ( I have zero complaints using  my method,  but if you aren’t use to building and framing homes  this might seem a little light duty.)

Next we attach the side supports using the same method.

Next I measured from the front  of my side support to the other to get the front measurement. (Cut x2 of these.) Once cut go ahead and attach it to the front ends of the side supports.

Once the front support is in place,  I added my platform supports. To get this dimension, I just measure my interior platform dimension.  The spacing of these supports will vary dependent on the overall width of your space.  I would  suggest not going more that 14″  apart though.  Once you know your spacing measurement.  Mark the measurements on both your front and back support.  To attach the front board simply drive through the front support  into the platform/middle support.  I again used (x2) 4″  screws in each location.  Now to attach the back.  You have two options,  you can use a Pocket Hole Jig or you can use the rough construction method and “toenail it”.  Seeing as this would not be visible,  I took the quick and dirty approach.   You simply drive a screw through the top of your middle/platform support, at an angle towards your back support.  The trick is to drive through a decent amount of each board.  Repeat this again on the bottom of the board driving up towards the back support.  Repeat this for every support.  Not pictured but HIGHLY suggested.   After the platform is built I went through and added a second 2×4 to the front support.  Nothing special, just literally  used another 2×4 with the exact dimensions and attached it directly to the front of the front support.  This will just be a safeguard in the event  one of them ever gave out.

Add Platform:

Next it was time for the platform.  I used a nice 3/4″ plywood for my platform.   I measured  the dimensions of my  already built platform and transferred those dimensions to my plywood, and then cut using a table saw.  Now,  this next part will vary based on the placement of your washer and dryer hookups. Based on the logistics of our washer and dryer  I needed to cut out a hole that would accommodate our dryer ventilation.

It was a quick  process,  when I cut holes I use a 1/2″  drill bit and give myself a starter hole.  Then I use that hole as a starting point for using a jigsaw to cut out the circle. (Make sure you are aware of  the placement of your  2×4 supports that are running under  the platform.  It won’t do you any good have the  hole with a 2×4 in the way.  Last step,  slide your plywood back into place and using screws secure it to the platform.  This will just prevent the plywood from vibrating when the appliances are in use.

Make It Pretty!:

Next up ?  Make it pretty!  I wanted to make my platform look very polished and a little more beefy. So I added a 1×6 board to the face of my platform.  I left mine with a small lip  on the top.  My husband assures me that  it’s not necessary,  but in my mind I feel like this tiny lip could potentially  prevent a washer from vibrating right off.  Still debatable who is correct,  but I did it, and I don’t regret it.   To add the board measure the width of the from of your platform,  cut your board and screw it to it!

 Now we are to the fun part,  making it look pretty!  Next  I went through and filled all the visible screw holes using DAP Plastic Wood.  It is easy to apply.  Once dried I used a small sanding sponge to remove any excess filler.  It creates a smooth flawless surface!

Once all the holes are filled we can move on to filling any unseemly , seams… see what I did there?   I used DAP ALex caulk to fill all the seams where my platform and met the walls.  This will blend any discrepancies and  make it  look like a flawless built.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip.  Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to.

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!

Once it is all caulked you are ready to go!  DAP Alex Caulk  is paint-able within 30 mins. So,  by the time you have you paint out and prepped you will be good to go!   I wanted my platform to match my Open Shelves and my newly installed Upgraded Baseboards,  so I painted  my  platform Ultra Pure White by Behr.

 Isn’t she a beauty!?  I have all the base work done,  now comes the fun part!  I get to put all the finishing touches on the laundry room.  Make sure you check back for the reveal of this tiny Laundry Room Makeover later this week!

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Laundry Room Pedestal / Platform appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

and created  a gorgeous new piece of wall art. While I LOVED my  Pottery Barn inspired cubbies,  (Seen Below) I was ready to change it up a bit.  So today I am teaming up with the good folks over at DAP to bring you  another AWESOME new build. 

When designing my new shelving, I decided to draw inspiration from two different shelving units I designed a while back.   The first being  this little “Concrete Tray Shelving”….

 The other source of inspiration was my Simpson Strong-Tie Shelves. 

By combing these two designs, I have come up with what might possibly be my favorite design ever…

So,  let’s get started?  Today on the blog I am taking you through  the build in a step-by-step tutorial of how I created this piece.  If you want to build it yourself  you can get the PDF printable version that includes a complete cut list, full build plans with 3-D drawings.   You can  get them here:

Step. 1)  Prep Materials

Cut all boards per cut list.  Sand all pieces if desired.

Step. 2) Attach Horizontal Supports to Vertical Base

Using a tape measure mark the placement of the horizontal shelf support.

Next add a small amount of DAP Wood Glue to the end of the horizontal shelf support, and place (and clamp if desired)  where previously measured/marked.  In order to attach these,  I first pre-drilled using a 1/8” drill bit, and a counter sink bit.  Once pre-drilled, secured the support to the vertical piece using a 2 ½” screw.

Repeat above process x3 on each vertical board,  for a TOTAL of (9) shelf supports.

Step. 3)  Attach Diagonal Supports

Next  attach all diagonal supports.  Measure  and mark with a pencil ¾” from the end of the horizontal support.  This will be where the point of your diagonal support will need to be secured.

Add a small amount of DAP Wood Glue to the inside of the diagonal support and lay in place,  making sure the 45 degree angle sits flush with the top of the horizontal support and with the back of the vertical piece.

Once in place, reinforce with a 1 ½ “ 18 gauge nail.

Repeat the same step on both sides of each horizontal support for a total of (18) diagonal supports.

Step. 4)  Build Shelves

The ¾” plywood will serve as the actual shelf.  The 1”x 2” boards will serve as an edging that will bulk up the look of the shelf and create stability.

Per the cut list use the 1” x 2” boards to wrap around the front and the sides of the plywood. When attaching these pieces I used both DAP Wood Glue and DAP Rapid fuse for an instant bond. I then tacked it in place using 1 ½” 16 gauge nails.

Step. 5)  Finish

Once the shelf supports and shelves are complete, prepare them for a finish of your choice.   Begin by filling all the nail holes with DAP Plastic Wood Nail filler. (It is both stainable and paintable.)  Once the filler has adequately dried remove all excess filler by sanding it smooth.

Once sanded, apply your choice of stain and/or paint.

Step. 6) Install

To attach my supports to the wall, I used a counter sink bit, and a 1/8” drill bit to pre-drill.   I did this at both the top, bottom and the middle of EACH vertical bracket. For a total of 3  4” screws in EACH board.

I designed these shelves so that the vertical base/supports would be secured on my wall into studs. Stud placement in my interior walls is 24”. It is important that if these will be holding any significant amount of weight that they be properly secured!

Once pre-drilled, install to the desired wall.  Make sure you mark the placement of your studs, and use a level and tape meaure to make sure they are all level and equal distant.

Once the supports are properly  secured to the wall/into studs,  add the shelves.

To attach the shelves to the  supports I again,  pre-drilled at the back of the shelving and used a 2” screw to attached the horizontal shelves the the brackets.  I found the (1)  screw in each bracket worked well,  but adding a second to each wouldn’t hurt.

 There you have it folks!  The perfect solution for a blank wall space. It is a fun new twist on the widely  loved open shelving concept.  Thanks so much for following along, don’t forget you can get all the build plan details here.

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Bracket Open Shelving appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.