The beginning of the school year is always a personal wake up call to me in regard to our household organization.  Nothing like 6 a.m. alarms and missing shoes to make you realize the disorder of your kid’s closet. There’s really nothing quite like a frantic hunt for matching socks and clean underwear to kick my butt in gear. I am happy to report this year I put an end to the morning madness and I am thrilled to be teaming up with DAP to bring  you my “Kids Closet Makeover”. 

*This post is sponsored by DAP and does contain affiliate links.

What I used:

Kids Closet Makeover

Alright, let’s dive in and see what we are working with. Here it is, my kids closet. As you can see it came complete with the trademark builder grade wire shelving. I utilized as much hanging space as possible, but slowly random pieces of furniture slowly migrated into the closet giving false hopes of order…

Where to begin? Time to clear everything out and really see what we are working with. After emptying the contents of the closet I was amazed how much bigger it felt when the floor was clear. *Note to self, do not line the bottom of the closet with bins and totes after this Kids Closet Makeover.*

Remove Existing Closet Shelving

Now that the closet is empty it’s time to take it one step further. I needed a blank canvas; which means the wire shelving has got to go! Removing wire shelving is a fairly straight forward process. Actually, I simply handed my 10 year old son a drill and he figured it out all on his own.

If he can do it, so can you! Contractors use all sorts of securing methods, odds are they probably use mollies. No worries, when you remove the brackets and mollies they will leave sizable holes, but no worries that is an easy fix!

Repair and Fill Holes

After all the shelves are removed it is time to repair the damages. I promised it was an easy fix and I make good on my promises. All that is needed to repair the many holes left behind is some DAP DryDex Spackling.

Rough Surfaces

I have several methods I use when filling holes. In this case I am filling holes on a very textured surface. When I have a textured surface I try to apply the spackling directly into the hole using my finger. After applying the spackling I use my finger tip to smooth out the spackling while trying to mimic the wall texture. This particular spackling is perfect for this application because it won’t shrink or crack! Added Bonus: It has a built in timer, it goes on pink and turns white when it is dry.

Smooth Surfaces

When repairing smooth surfaces I apply DryDex Sparkling more liberally, knowing that I will sand the surface to get a smooth, perfect match.

Assemble Ikea furniture (The BEST way.)

Now that everything has been removed, it is time to add more function and hopefully a little bit of aesthetic qualities. If you have been following my DIY journey then you KNOW I normally build everything. Well, today I am going to switch things up and keep you on your toes! For the kids closet makeover I opted to utilize some IKEA options. I selected the “Brimnes 3-Drawer Dresser” along with (x2) “Billy Bookcase“.

Don’t get me wrong, I I don’t have anything against IKEA. They create affordable furniture options that can fit nearly any budget, however when it comes to stability they simply aren’t as rugged as homemade. However, I have a little trick that will give these inexpensive Ikea pieces some added strength.

IKEA furniture utilizes locking bolts and wooden dowels to joint their furniture. Well, in the shop I always glue up my furniture, it only makes sense that I would give the same advantage to pre made furniture. I suggest using DAP Weldwood on all of the dowel rods and along any of the exposed MDF joints. Apart from this one added step, follow the IKEA assembly manuals as directed.

Custom Shelves

At this point we have two tall thin IKEA bookcases, a dresser and an old bookcase. All of these components by themselves are fine, but it felt a little disconnected. However, what if we were to create some simple custom shelving that would make the bookcases look like built-ins while also matching the old bookcase?! Sounds like a winning idea, right?

Cut Shelving

Let’s get started. First, I measured the depth and the length of my desired shelves. I opted to make my shelf hang about an inch past my book cases. ( I cut my shelves 13′ wide, and measured from wall-to-wall for my length dimension.)

I wanted my shelving to have a nice finished edge. In order to accomplish this I banded the front edge of my plywood. If you are interested in learning more about applying edge banding you can check out my tutorial here.

After banding the front edge I was ready for the fun part! Adding character to the space. A great way to make any furniture piece look custom is by adding some decorative molding. In this case I wanted to mimic the trim work on my existing bookcase so that it would look cohesive.

Support Closet Shelving

The first thing I needed to add was a primed 1×2″. The 1×2 would not only duplicate the trim on the bookcase it would also add support to the shelf edge. One of my favorite shop hacks is using DAP Weldwood and Dap RapidFuse in a morse code style application. The combination is remarkable. The RapidFuse holds instantly (within 30 SECONDS) and the Weldwood Wood Glue will cure and create a permanent continuous point of contact.

Add Decorative Trim

Next up? Decorative trim. I love using PVC “inside corner molding” to add a little bit interest. It is easy to work with, reasonably priced, and paint-able. Winning! Another great thing about PVC is how easy it is to install. It is flexible and in my experience doesn’t require fasteners. I have used it for many applications, and my method of choice is Alex Plus caulk. Yup, it works great as an adhesive and I seals the edges for a perfect finish!

Paint

All the walls are repaired and ready for a fresh start . All the bookcases are assembled and ready to be installed. The custom shelves are built and ready for their finish… it’s time to paint! I could have easily painted the room first, but opted to wait until all my pieces were ready so I could paint them all at the same time.

I essentially used the closet as a spray shelter to paint not only the room itself, but also my shelves, and give my old bookcase a fresh coat of paint.

Now, you may be wondering if my old book case will match my new IKEA dressers and bookcases? Valid question. I definitely wanted everything to match seamlessly and give the appearance of custom built-ins. In order to accomplish this I simply had Sherwin Williams color match my Ikea furniture. Easy peasy.

Bring In the Units

This is my favorite part, when you start to put things back together instead of tearing things apart! After the paint was dry I brought my bookcases and dresser back in and started installing. All of the IKEA furniture I purchased comes with brackets to secure the pieces to the wall.

Combine Dresser and Book Case

Do you ever have one of those ideas that makes you feel super smart. This idea just so happens to be one of mine. As I previously mentioned, I had an existing bookcase that received a makeover nearly 9 years ago. Well, that bookcase has moved all over the country and ended up in the back of my kids closet. Instead of kicking it to the curb I decided to reuse it in the kids closet makeover.

The bookcase was in good condition and a really great size. After looking around IKEA I ultimately found the Bimnes dresser that had the perfect dimensions to be a suitable base for my bookcase. When you combine the two it becomes a super functional show stopper!

After properly securing the dresser to the wall I stacked my bookcase atop the dresser. Using screws I drilled through the interior top of the dresser into the base of the bookcase. The goal is to have the bookcase permanently affixed to the top of the dresser. After screwing the two pieces together, I then practiced additional caution and secured the upper bookcase to the wall as well.

Install Shelves

Time to install those gorgeous shelves we made! I used a very basic support to hold up the shelves. If you want more details on how to install this type of shelf you can read my full tutorial here.

My biggest recommendation for this step is to hide the eyesores. In this case the screws stood out like a sore thumb(s). This is a simple fix, I used “DAP Premium Wood Filler” to quickly fill the holes. Thankfully it dries fast and doesn’t shrink allowing for sanding and painting shortly thereafter.

Unify with Caulk

After the supports are installed, and holes are filled and sanded it is time to add the shelf! The supports will create a sturdy base for the shelf, but as an added measure of precaution I also used 1 1/2″ screws to drive through the top of the shelves and into the supports below.

I truly and deeply feel that this shelf takes the random IKEA pieces and unifies them into a custom kids closet. The last thing needed to really create a custom built-in feel is CAULK. Yes, I have said it before and I will say it again, caulk is a stinking miracle worker! It is the magic eraser of the DIY world. Just a small bead of caulk will hide the most unseemly gaps.

As you may know I like to work fast pace so I always opt for “DAP’s AlexFlex”, it’s flexible with a quick dry time allowing for paint in just 30 minutes. Yes please!

Add Clothing Rods

Now that we have the framework for a beautiful closet it is time to add rods. One would think that the rods would be the most simple of tasks. In reality I spent quite a bit of time brainstorming possibilities. Clothing racks hold a lot of clothing weight not to mention the occasional weight of children competing in their own personal Olympics .

While it is ideal to secure anything that will hold significant weight into studs, sometimes that is not an option. After considering a lot of options I ultimately chose to use toggle bolts and I do NOT regret it! They were perfect for this application.

I used toggle bolts on the drywall and on the inside brackets I secured the rods directly into the “Billy Bookcases” with zero problems.

As far as rods… they come in many sizes and materials. However, if you have the option I would suggest using wood simply because they are easier to cut to size. I used metal ones which are easy to cut, but you do need to have a blade that is intended for cutting metal. (Or so it is suggested.)

Add Decorative Baskets

My last suggestion would be adding decorative baskets.  Not only will this bring in aesthetically pleasing uniformity, it will also help with organization! In the design world we lovingly  refer to this as “form meeting function”.   While the “Billy Bookcases” do provide plenty of  sectioned storage, I needed place for hats, socks, underwear etc…  Adding baskets was the perfect solution and added a ton of character to the space. 

 I found that finding baskets to fit the bookcase was a little trickier than I had hoped.  So I did a little research and tried out a few options.   Here are a few that worked well. 

•  Two-Tone Basket with Leather Detailing
• “Threshold Could Rope Basket” Target Baskets (No longer available.)
• Gray Baskets w/ Leather Detailing

Optional Additions*

Okay, okay, I promise I am almost done. I made two last minute tweaks and I’m sharing them only because I highly recommend them. if you noticed earlier the “Brimnes Dresser” has an odd-man-out glass panel on the top drawer. I didn’t love it, so I scuffed it up, primed and painted it. No big deal. The last adjustment I made was the dresser pulls. They originally came with some less than appealing white pulls. We can do better! I swapped out the white for these fun new black drawer pulls.

Enjoy Form Meeting Function

Okay, NOW it’s time. It’s time to take back the closet and HOPEFULLY regain as much peace as you possibly can during your early morning run for the bus.

Who would have ever thought that just a few pieces of IKEA furniture and a hand-me-down dresser had so much potential!

Hopefully this helps you on your DIY journey. However,  if you aren’t ready to tackle your closet just yet, make sure you pin the image below to your Pinterest boards for safe keeping!    Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey 

The post Kids Closet Makeover (Using IKEA Furniture) appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

If you have been around for a little while you are aware of my recent Master Bathroom Renovation. I love everything about the new bathroom setup, but admittedly I do miss my seated vanity area. As ugly as the layout use to be, I still missed sitting to do my hair and makeup. Well I had a crazy idea that would convert a cabinet into a seated vanity area. I already converted the drawer into extra make up storage . ( You can get all the details here.)

Next thing I needed to was to figure out my hot tool storage. I am lucky enough to have DAP as a great sponsor that allows me to create and share awesome content like these build plans for Hot Tool Storage!

If you would like access to complete build plans for this “Hot Tool Storage Drawer” are available here.

Prepping Materials

When using build plans I like to  begin by preparing all my boards according to the provided cut list.  (If you would like full build plans they are available here.)

I find that reading through the plans completely is always a huge help, especially when the project includes small pieces and specialty cuts.

Hot Tool Storage Assembly

When designing the Hot Tool Storage Drawer I found the actual assembly process to be very tricky! With small pieces and close quarters it makes using a drill and nail gun extremely difficult! That’s where my favorite DAP adhesives come into play!

Instead of trying to use a nail gun or use a drill and need to hide unsightly pocket holes DAP RapidFuse saved the day. It creates a super stron hold without using traditional metal fasteners. When using Rapid Fuse only a few dots! Rapid Fuse is very strong and forms an instant bond. I like to alternate dabs of it with DAP Weldwood.

The combination is remarkable. The RapidFuse holds instantly (within 30 SECONDS!) and the Welwood Wood Glue will cure and create a permanent continuous point of contact.

Can we say Dynamic Duo?!

Prep for Finish on Hot Tool Storage Drawer

Once the unit and base are assembled it’s time to make it pretty! I planned on painting this unit, and one thing I have noticed is this, paint makes most blemishes more noticeable. So, before I paint I use DAP Premium Wood Filler to fill any gaps, cracks or holes. It dries quickly and sands nicely that helps procure a perfect finish once painted.

Install Hot Tool Storage Drawer

This unit was designed to accommodate a 24″ deep cabinet, and I use every square inch of it! These plans utilize a 22″ full extension ball bearing drawer slide.

If you are new to installing drawer slides no worries! You can read more about my preferred method to install drawer slides in this project post.

The last thing necessary to install the unit is mounting the base in the cabinet. I try to make sure that there are at a minimum two fasteners with a strong hold to keep the unit from tipping out when the drawer slides are completely extended and the drawer is fully loaded.

*Extra*

I am ALL about the “Extra”. It says it right there in my tagline “I can’t leave well enough alone.” Its true. In true Sawdust 2 Stitches fashion I went over the top and added an outlet to the end cap of my unit. If you are interested in finding out more about how I included this is my build you can get more details in the Build Plans.

Well, there you have it, a functional, and dare I say BEAUTIFUL way to organize you hair accoutrements? A big shout out to my sponsors that help make this possible!

The post Hot Tool Storage/Organization Drawer appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Who needs more organization and storage in their life? While all my cupboards (for the most part) are organized, the original design plan of my home sometimes baffles me. For instance, I have this teeny tiny closet in my kitchen that has so much untapped potential, there is plenty of dead space that could be utilized! What’s a girl to do? Optimize it!  Today I am teaming up with The Home Depot to show you how I replaced my builder grade pantry closet with the custom built-in pantry of my dreams!

  Tools Suggested 

• Safety Glasses 
• Hearing Protection
• Tape Measure 
• Miter Saw/Circular Saw
• Finish Sander
• Drill/Driver
• Pocket Hole Jig 
• Table Saw or Router 
• Wood Glue 
• Clamps 
• Pry Bar 
• Hammer
• Oscillating Tool 

  Materials Used 

• Stain, or paint of choice.
• 1 ¼” Pocket Hole Screws  
• (x11) 1x3x8 Board(s) 
• (x5) ¾”  Plywood 
• (x1) ¼” Paneling/Plywood 
• (x4) 1x2x8 Boards 
• (x1) ¼” Back Panel 
• (x5) Drawer Pulls 
• (x6) ½” overlay Concealed Hinges 
• (x8) 22” Ball-bearing Drawer Slides
• Edge Banding
• 2×4
• Baseboard

Purchase Materials

While it is not a HARD project it is a LARGE one.  I have painstakingly drafted build plans and written detailed instructions to help you through the building part, and The Home Depot can help you with all the heavy lifting!  

Before we can even delve into the project, we need to first tackle our first hurdle… getting all the materials home.  In the past I would wait until “date night” when my husband and I would take a trip to The Home Depot to help me load full sheets of ¾” plywood… while Andy and I still frequent The Home Depot, I no longer HAVE to wait for Friday night to start a project!  Did you know that The Home Depot offers curbside pickup?   Yes, they will pull your order and have it ready to go and will help you load up. It’s like projects to go! You can place your order online or in their mobile app. I prefer using their app. 

Just place your order and look for an email letting you know when and where you can pick up your order.  It is that simple! 

While I definitely NEEDED curbside help with my large orders, The Home Depot also helps with the small things too.  Let’s say for instance you are in the middle of a project and run out of … screws, The Home Depot is here to help!  Did you know that many Home Depot stores offer same-day pickup?  I put in an order for screws using my app and was alerted (normally in two hours or less) that my order was ready and waiting for me at The Home Depot Lockers!

Yup, many of The Home Depot stores offer contactless pickup! It is so simple. First locate the item you need using their app or online. If you are using their app I LOVE the image product locator. Yes that’s right! Do you ever find your self in need of a part, but are not entirely positive you know what it is called? The Home Depot can help with that too!

I can safely say my locker pickup was my fastest Home Depot trip ever. I was out of my truck for about 1.5 minutes and then I was back on the road. Just another reason to love The Home Depot. 

Now that you are better equipped and ready to take on any project, big or small, let’s get started! 

If you would like complete build plans for this cabinet, they are available here:

Prep Materials-

 When working on a large project I prefer to cut and sand all of my boards before assembling. (it makes life a little easier when applying paint/stain.) 

Assemble Base Unit- 

Regardless if you are using my build plans, or creating your own cabinet begin by assembling the cabinet “carcass” (a term used by builders in reference to the body of a cabinet). 

Add Desired Shelves- 

 When designing my pantry I knew that I wanted plenty of drawer storage, along with pull out shelves. One thing to keep in mind when adding the shelves, the ply on the end of the boards will be exposed unless you either, support the ledge with a 1×2” or use edge banding on the exposed edge. I prefer the latter option. 

Build Face Frame- 

A face frame is not always necessary for cabinets, in fact many cabinets are frameless.  However due to the nature of this project I needed to use a face frame.  In most cases the face frame is flush with the outside of the cabinet, in this case the face frame was made to sit flush with the interior of the cabinet. The reason?  With the face frame hanging out over the side of the cabinet it will allow a little wiggle room when installing this in the wall.  This project will require me to cut into my drywall and this face frame will cover the cut drywall and create a flawless look. 

Assemble/Install Boxes

 The best part of replacing a closet with a pantry is the endless drawer possibilities!  With the limited entry space of a closet there was no way I could efficiently use drawers.  I LOVE drawers and I added a ton of them.  However, if drawers don’t speak to you, you can always opt for easy shelving instead.

Build/Install Doors and Drawer Fronts

Again, if you are looking for specific dimensions, I have full build plans available here.    If you love my style you can follow my build plans. However, the doors and drawers are a great way to really add your own personality to the build.  I was heavily considering swapping out my wood panels in my doors for glass, or even making map style drawer fronts.  The sky is the limit and this build can be completely catered to you and your unique style. 

Clear Out Existing Closet 

Before I can bring in the new, I had to take out the old. 

I removed all of the wire shelving and hardware.

Remove Door Frame- 

 In order to make space for the new cabinet I needed to completely remove the door, the door frame and even part of the wall.   Buckle up, this is where is gets fun!

I started by removing the door and the hinges that are secured to the door jamb.  

Once the door is removed it is time to move on to the door frame and jamb. Odds are there will be a substantial amount of caulk around the perimeter of your door.   First cut the caulk line with a utility knife, this will make the removal process much easier.  

 Using a prybar and a hammer remove the door casing and jamb.

Cut Hole

Before I started busting out walls, I needed to take careful measurements.  I obviously designed my custom pantry to fit in my allocated space, but I still needed to make sure I transferred my dimensions exactly to ensure my pantry would fit. 

After double and triple checking my dimensions, we started cutting drywall.  When cutting drywall, I prefer to use a oscillating tool. (Or in this case I let my husband handle the tools instead of the camera… this time.)

Remove Studs

 If you are ever uncertain if a stud is loadbearing or not, do not guess. Get a professional’s opinion before ripping apart your home!   In this case the 2×4’s pictured are just framing in the door and can safely be removed.

When it comes to removing studs, a good solid hammer and a few forceful hits will usually do the trick. 

 Build a Platform

  After much consideration I decided that I wanted to run my baseboard under my new cabinet.   I had considered running the cabinet all the way to the floor and create more of an armoire appearance, but I ultimately  decided that  I wanted it to look like it was completely built in to the wall.  In order to run the baseboard under the cabinet I needed to build a small platform using 2×4” boards.

Insert Pantry 

 It is now the moment of truth.  I would be lying if I said I wasn’t nervous as my husband and I brought this beast of a cabinet inside. I had already double, and triple checked my measurements, but I still held my breath as we pushed it into place.

 I cannot even begin to tell you how perfectly this thing fit.  LIKE A GLOVE. Gratefully everything went according to plan and the new custom pantry fit snuggly into its new home.

Before I started loading up the new pantry, I first ensured that it was secured in place.  Using 3½” screws I  drilled through the interior of the unit and into the stud that was directly behind it.  I repeated this step at several different anchor points. 

 Install Baseboard-

    The last thing this built-in needed was a baseboard.  As mentioned earlier, I put the pantry up on a platform  so that I could run a baseboard under the cabinet.  I simply cut a new piece of baseboard and installed in under the pantry. Eventually I will add shoe molding, caulk and paint it, but that will have to wait because I simply cannot wait to share the final reveal… 

 Can you even believe that is the same kitchen? Obviously, it added a ton of storage, but oh my goodness, it transformed the entire kitchen!  Don’t you just love it when form meets function, that’s when you know it is truly a good design. 

Ready to tackle your own project? You can do this!  There are so many other great bloggers and awesome resources like The Home Depot at your disposal. So, pick a space that could use a little more functionality and dive in!

 Thanks so much for following along. 
Take Luck,

Corey 

The post Built-in Pantry Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

If you aren’t a stranger around here, you are probably already up to speed on the recent office renovations. But if you are new here, might I suggest checking out phase one of this room makeover.

Brief Recap: I had been planning on an office makeover for some time. However plans changed. I was getting two new office mates! (My 11 and 9 year old would be joining me at home for school.) With the new developments I found myself in need of plenty of functional yet beautiful storage. I wanted to maximize every square inch of the office and thus this project was dreamed up, enjoy!

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Clamp
• Tape Measure
• Table Saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Hardware Jig
• Paint Roller/Brush/Sprayer
• Sanding Sponge

Materials Used:

• (x2) Pantry Cabinets
• (x6) Brass Hardware
• (x1) 3/4″ Plywood
• (x2) 1×2″ Common Board
• (x1) 1×6″ Common Board
• Nickel Gap Boards
• 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• Any additional trim boards to math existing molding and baseboards.
• Paint or stain of choice. (Pictured: Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Secure Cabinets Together

Again,  if you have been following the office makeover you are probably aware that I have been using pre-made cabinets. As I was brainstorming additional office storage I found myself perusing pre-made cabinet options and found a winner!  I found pantry cabinets in-stock at my local Home Depot! #winning  

First things first.  Unbox the cabinets  intended to create a built-in.  The cabinets will need to be secured together so that they are essentially one unit.   In order two align them properly, I used clamps to hold the two cabinets together while I secured them together.

  I recommend securing the two units together on the interior sides of the cabinets.  I  secured them at  8 different points,  using a  1 1/4″  wood screw. 

 After  the two units are essentially one it will need to be leveled and secured to the wall. Most homes are level,  mine is not. Ha, I needed to use several shims to make my cabinet level. Once the unit is level it can be secured to the wall. (I will  hide the gap when adding trim.) 

Mark stud placement and drive a 3″ screw through the interior back of your cabinet and into the stud behind it.  Repeat this step a minimum of 4 times per unit. 

Change Door Orientation

 Most  pre-made cabinets will  have doors that swing out in the same direction. I wanted my cabinet doors to both swing out as if it were an armoire.  In order to achieve this look,  I needed to change the orientation of one of the doors.  SOME cabinet companies anticipate this and add pre-drilled holes to accommodate a quick switch. 

Others do not, in which case you will need to transfer the measurements to the blank side and reinstall the hinges.  I did this for both top and bottom swing out doors. 

Build Upper Unit Carcass

Now we are to the fun part, building! Before you dismiss this project because of its perceived skill level, take a beat and hear me out. It’s just a box you guys! Just a box. In order to get the correct sizing you just need to follow some formulas.

WIDTH – Width of the installed cabinet – 1 1/2″= “Upper Interior Width”

DEPTH- Depth of installed cabinet – 3/4″ – 1/2″ = “Upper Side Depth

HEIGHT– This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Mine are 10′ ceilings. Measure from the top of the already installed cabinets, to the ceiling, then subtract 1.5″. This will be the height dimension.

Upper Unit Sides (x2) = height x width

Upper Unit Top and Bottom (x2) = width x depth (If additional shelves are desired cut any additional boards to the same above dimension.)

Secure the upper interior boards to both side boards using pocket holes and pocket hole screws. The top interior board will sit 4″ from the top of the side boards. This will be hidden by a trim piece. If you prefer to just have a free standing unit without trim, then disregard the 4″ drop and install flush with the ends of the side boards.

Shelves

SHELVES*- If a shelf is desired it can be added now. My preferred method is to use a pocket hole jig and drill pocket holes along the long front edge and both ends. (If the shelf is above eye level, I use pocket holes on the top of the board, if it is below eye level I drill pocket holes on the bottom of the board.) In this case I drilled pocket holes on the top of the shelf board and then secured a 1×2″ common board cut to the same length. This will reinforce the shelf and prevent from sagging. Using the pocket holes drilled on both ends secure to the interior of the cabinet carcass. The placement is personal preference. ( You can always make this and adjustable shelf if preferred.)

Construct Face Frame

After the box is assembled, the carcass will need a face frame. The face frame is comprised of 1×2″ and 1×6″ common boards. These four boards can either be attached directly to the cabinet using wood glue and a finish nailer, or you can use a pocket hole jig and secure them together on the back of both ends of the “rails”. ( See below image as a reference.)

Rail Length = Width of the base cabinet – 3″

Stile Height = This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Use the same measurement that was used when cutting the “Upper Cabinet Sides”

Cabinet Back

In order to create cohesion in my office I opted to back my open style cabinet with shiplap/ nickel gap boards. This is not necessary and a simple MDF board will do. In either situation it is a simple case of measuring the height and width of the back of your cabinet and cutting the boards to fit. I installed mine using wood glue and an 1.5″ 18. gauge nail .

Paint (Can be painted once complete.)

Painting method and order are all a matter of personal preference. I opted to spray the cabinet doors and the custom made upper unit in my shop, and painted the pantry cabinets in place. (Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Install Upper Unit

I enlisted the help of my husband to set the upper unit. It was pretty beefy with the 3/4″ ship lap backing! Assuming all dimensions were carefully taken it should fit like a glove! Once properly placed drive 1 1/4″ screws though the top interior of the pantry cabinets and into the base of the upper cabinet (or vise versa). The goal is make sure the upper unit if solidly secured to the base cabinet.

Add Hardware

Hardware is always optional, but when it comes to creating a truly custom look I think they are a must! My cabinets did not have any predrilled holes so I used the dimensions based on the hardware I selected.

When drilling hardware holes I suggest using a jig. I recently started using this one and I love it!

Add Trim Work

In my opinion, trim work is the element that turns a piece of free-standing furniture into a built-in. It just gives it this sophisticated look and I dig it! In this case

I reinstalled my baseboards and installed shoe molding around the base perimeter of my armoire. If you have any questions about installing baseboards I have a full tutorial here. 

On the top of the unit I used the same crown moulding I had through out the room. The only struggle I had was figuring out want color to paint the moulding! Throughout the room the crown moulding and the baseboards are all pure white. Well, my built-ins are Sherwin Williams “Repose Gray”, I wasn’t sure what color the trim should be. After counseling with some friends it was decided it definitely needed to match the built in unit. So, my crown moulding actually changes colors in the corners! Rest assured, it looks great and I haven’t given it a second thought since. It looks bomb.

Well, what do we think? It’s amazing isn’t it? Beautiful, functional, and fairly easy. The ultimate DIY trifecta.

But wait there is more,  I did mention it was functional right?  I made sure to add some extra charging stations so that I could have my electronics!

If you know me, you know I needed to add as much function as absolutely possible. I even added some power strips to the drawer that would serve as my kids electronics charging station. Now we always know where they are, and they go in the drawer when not in use. It is awesome!

Then of course there is the obvious storage. It holds so much stuff! Overall I call this build a complete success.

Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Convert a Cabinet Into a Built-In Armoire appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

  I recently gave my home office a makeover.  Scratch that.  I recently  converted my office into a streamlined home office/ homeschool room.  

 The biggest hurdle when designing my office was incorporating  enough desks to accommodate my kiddos and myself.   I really wanted a built-in unit but that dream seemed unattainable. Or was it ?   I dreamed up a crazy idea, an idea so crazy it JUST MIGHT WORK?! Spoiler alert:  It TOTALLY worked and I am going to show you how. 

Remove Hardware

  The first thing that was necessary when modifying the cabinet was removing the drawer and it’s accompanying hardware.  This can be  typically be accomplished using a phillips bit screwdriver/drill. 

Modifying Cabinet Dimensions (opt.)

 Now,  if you are a little OCD and want to take this project one step further then read on.  If you are perfectly happy with  height and depth of your cabinets go ahead and skip to the next step.

Adjust Depth

 First,  determine the desired depth of your cabinet and then you measure and mark your cabinet. I  set up a board that would serve as a guide to run my circular saw along.  (Remember, do not place your guide on the line you need to cut,  you need to consider the distance from  the edge of your saw plate to the saw blade itself.) 

 Using the guide and the marked line cut the first side of your cabinet using a circular saw.  (Always wear proper safety gear!)  Repeat this step on both side of your cabinet. 

Once both sides are cut,  you can flip the cabinet upside down in preparation to cut the bottom.  This is where it gets a little tricky.   The sides of the base block the path of the circular saw, so I needed to get a little creative. I had to use a smaller circular saw, but a jigsaw or something similar would work well too. 

 Using one one of the above mentioned tools will require cutting a straight line by hand.  I would highly recommend drawing a straight line to use as a guide.   Even if the line is a little crooked,  it will be fine, this will be completely hidden. 

Add Supports

Once all sides of the cabinet are cut down supports are necessary.    I used a 1×3 board cut to the exact interior dimension and then drilled pocket holes on both ends to secure them. 

 I added a support on the very top ledge of my cabinet and also  one at the base. I did leave the back of the cabinet open.  This is totally personal preference.  You can add paneling to the back if you prefer,  just take the added depth into account when you are creating countertops and installing to the wall etc. 

Adjust Height

 If  you would also like to alter the height of your cabinet,  that is an option.  Again, not necessary, but an option.   If you opt to do this,  just use the same method used to cut the sides of the cabinet.  When I cut mine down I only removed 1.5″.  I still wanted there to be a toe kick area, but the 1.5″  made a huge difference when it can to the height of the pull-out desk drawers for my kids. 

Build Drawer Box

  In order to create a pull out desk,  I needed to create a sturdy  drawer.    Never made a drawer ?  No worries, it is simple!

Finding Drawer Box Dimensions

How to find the dimensions for your drawer:

• Drawer Base Width= Opening drawer dimensions  –  1″(drawer glides) –  1  1/2″ (1×4″ box supports) 
• Drawer Base Depth = Cabinet Depth Dimension – 1″( back clearance) – 3/4″ (back 1×4″ box support)-  1 3/4″(front hinge clearance) 
• Side Box Supports=  “Drawer Base Depth” dimension +  3/4″ (back 1×4 box support) 
• Back Box Support =  “Drawer Base  Width” dimension 

After  all the necessary boards are cut, it’s time to assemble.   Using a pocket hole jig  drill pocket  holes  around the perimeter of the base. (Excluding the front ledge.)  Also drill pocket holes on both ends of the “back box support” board as well.

 Using  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws secure the “back box support” to the back of the base.  Follow-up  by securing the “side box supports”  to  both sides.  Again securing with  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. 

 Look at that!  You made a box, that wasn’t so hard now was it ?  Next  thing we need to do is make it mobile!  Let’s add some drawer glides. 

Install Drawer Front

  First mark the desired location for the hinge,  taking into consideration the drawer glides that will be installed.  Once marked,  pre-drill in the allocated spots, then use the screws  that came with the hinges to install the first side of the hinge.  Repeat t his process for both hinges that will be attached the cabinet base.  (See below image as a reference.) 

 After the hinges are secured to the cabinet base I needed to attach the to my  drawer front.  

Something to consider: Keep in mind that the drawer will need to clear the doors that sit directly below it.  Test the spacing before installing the  drawer face. 

When  attaching the drawer front I found it easiest to clamp the drawer face directly to the front of the cabinet and then mark, pre-drill, and  then fasten with a  screw.  It ensured that I would have perfect placement!  Worked like a charm. 

Install Glides

Mark Glide Placement

   Before beginning the install process,  place your drawer box in the cabinet opening and mark out a  logical location fort eh glides to be installed.  ( If  the drawer glides are installed too high or too low there is a chance your box will not fit into the opening and will be stopped by the cabinet frame.) 

Something to consider:  When selecting your glides take into account the amount of weight they can hold and their length.  As  you saw earlier I shortened my cabinet and there fore shortened  my drawer.   Select a drawer glide based on the depth of your drawer box.  ( Mine is an 18″ deep drawer box, so I selected an 18″ drawer glide. 

Attach Glide to box

When installing drawer glides. I begin by removing the drawer glide rail and secure it to the box first.    This is a fairly simple process.  Place the front of the glide so that is flush with the box.  Then using a spacer screw with glide rail in place using the screws provided with your glides.  (See below image for clarification.) 

Install Glide to Cabinet

   Alright half-way  through  the tricky part.  See that’s not so bad ?   Let’s wrap this puppy up.  All we need to do now is install the second half of the glide.   The larger piece of the glide needs to be secured to the cabinet base.  

After a few learning experiences I finally have drawer glide install down to a science and this is my favorite way to install a drawer box.  

1.)  Cut and Add Spacers-   The spacers will need to be tall enough that  your  drawer box will not hit the hinges when the drawer is pulled out on the drawer glides,  but also short enough that the drawer box doesn’t hit the top of the opening. I cut mine approximately 1″ thick and 20 long. 

Place the guides under both sides of the drawer box. 

2.) After the spacers are resting on the front drawer support (under the drawer box)  clamp or  secure  the spacer to the cabinet so that the spacer (and thereby) the box are sitting perfectly level.  Repeat this process for both spacers on either side of the drawer. 

3.) After the spacer is securely attached it is time to install the drawer glide. ( As of right now the box is resting on top of the spacers with the glides already attached to the box.)  Before we can install the glide we need to make sure the front hinged drawer has enough space to close. (The hinges  I used required 1 1/4″ from the front ledge in order to close properly.)  

Once certain of  location mark  where the back of your glide should be. Use this same measurement and mark it on the other side as well.  Once marked, slowly slide the box forward so that the glide is extending. As the box and glide extend it should holes allocated for  screws. 

4.)  When the holes are visible it is time to start screwing the glide to the  cabinet interior. (Make sure the back of your glide is still  at your pre-marked measurement.   Once you have double checked go ahead and put in screws in the available hole cut outs.  Repeat this same process on both sides of the box. 

5.)   Hard part is over! Gently push the drawer forward again. ( It is still resting on the spacers,  but the glides should not be shifting because of the first set of screws that are installed.)   As you push the drawer forward it will expose more hole cut outs,  proceed to screw in the provided screws. 

6.) Repeat  step (5) until  the glides are completely extended. (The box should be completely  pulled out at this point.) 

7.) After all the screws are in, unclamp  the spacers and pull out from under the drawer. 

8.) You did it!  It should be a perfectly level install. 

 You did,  pat yourself on the back.  You converted a drawer into a desk!  If you are interested in how I created the rest of my built in unit or the countertops make sure you check out these posts.

The post How to: Convert a Drawer into Desk appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Every once in awhile I will get on Pinterest and browse for ideas. It’s not very often,  on this given day I hopped on and looked up “laundry room”. I am not going to lie all the images of Laundry Rooms that had a bigger footprint than my living room made me drool a little bit, and I DON’T EVEN LIKE LAUNDRY!?!   I had gotten it into my head that “maybe if my laundry room was a little easier on the eyes I wouldn’t mind it so much.  In addition  lack of storage space, or even the space  to turn around without tripping on oneself would be a big step towards that goal.  So,  I dreamed up a way that I could maximize my tiny space without compromising aesthetics.    I basically only  had a big enough footprint to walk in and have the washer and dryer.  So I really needed to maximize that small space where the washer and dryer would sit. I would use all the space above it, and even BELOW them!  That’s right. I found a great way to store my laundry baskets and have over head storage by building a built in laundry platform and overhead shelving.  Bonus:  It even looks amazing!

A big thanks and shout out to this posts sponsor DAP.  It is because of excellent partnerships like these that I am able to continue to provide more content at no cost to my readers.

Tools Suggested: 

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• 18 gauge Nailer
• Drill
• Level
• DAP Plastic Wood
• DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
• Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

• 2×4’s
• 1×6″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
• 3/4″ Plywood
• 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
• 4″ screws
• Foam Sanding Block
• Damp Cloth
• Caulk Gun

Build Platform Frame:

A WORD OF CAUTION:  Now,  I don’t want to intimidate you, this is actually a fairly simple project,  but  you do need to be careful.   I cannot stress enough,  that you need to know  exactly where your studs are! Laundry rooms by nature have plumbing and electrical.  All of that plumbing and electrical has to live somewhere.  Spoiler alert;  they are all located in the walls running next to those studs we are trying to locate.  Now imagine if we accidentally  put a screw though a water line?  It could  potentially  be a fairly  big pain in the *ss.  So in order to avoid that situation,  I STRESS, know where your studs are.   You can do this by using a stud finder,  lots  of homes codes require they be positioned 16″ apart, but sometimes if the wall isn’t divisible by 16″  it can be  a little less reliable.  I just urge you to take the time to locate the studs and then clearly mark them with a pencil.

Begin by determining the height of  your pedestal.  I made mine 16″ tall.  I based that measurement off of  our laundry baskets.  The goal was to be able to easily slide  all my laundry baskets under my pedestals.  I began by using a a level and drawing a line at the predetermined height.  I then continued that line  on the two adjoining walls.  Believe me,  having a washer and dryer agitating on  the top of a sloped platform  does not sound ideal.

The first board I added was the back support.  I used standard 2×4’s  for the framing process.    I measure the width of the back wall and cut  my first board. ( You can build the entire platform and install the entire platform.  I did not do this BECAUSE my walls are not all square. I wanted a perfect fit so I cut all my boards to fit in place.)  Next I secured the board to the wall.  I used (x2) 4″ screws  and drilled through the 2×4 into each pre-marked stud location. If this makes you a little ansy,  feel free to extend the length of your screw or if you want to go bunker mode  use lag screws. ( I have zero complaints using  my method,  but if you aren’t use to building and framing homes  this might seem a little light duty.)

Next we attach the side supports using the same method.

Next I measured from the front  of my side support to the other to get the front measurement. (Cut x2 of these.) Once cut go ahead and attach it to the front ends of the side supports.

Once the front support is in place,  I added my platform supports. To get this dimension, I just measure my interior platform dimension.  The spacing of these supports will vary dependent on the overall width of your space.  I would  suggest not going more that 14″  apart though.  Once you know your spacing measurement.  Mark the measurements on both your front and back support.  To attach the front board simply drive through the front support  into the platform/middle support.  I again used (x2) 4″  screws in each location.  Now to attach the back.  You have two options,  you can use a Pocket Hole Jig or you can use the rough construction method and “toenail it”.  Seeing as this would not be visible,  I took the quick and dirty approach.   You simply drive a screw through the top of your middle/platform support, at an angle towards your back support.  The trick is to drive through a decent amount of each board.  Repeat this again on the bottom of the board driving up towards the back support.  Repeat this for every support.  Not pictured but HIGHLY suggested.   After the platform is built I went through and added a second 2×4 to the front support.  Nothing special, just literally  used another 2×4 with the exact dimensions and attached it directly to the front of the front support.  This will just be a safeguard in the event  one of them ever gave out.

Add Platform:

Next it was time for the platform.  I used a nice 3/4″ plywood for my platform.   I measured  the dimensions of my  already built platform and transferred those dimensions to my plywood, and then cut using a table saw.  Now,  this next part will vary based on the placement of your washer and dryer hookups. Based on the logistics of our washer and dryer  I needed to cut out a hole that would accommodate our dryer ventilation.

It was a quick  process,  when I cut holes I use a 1/2″  drill bit and give myself a starter hole.  Then I use that hole as a starting point for using a jigsaw to cut out the circle. (Make sure you are aware of  the placement of your  2×4 supports that are running under  the platform.  It won’t do you any good have the  hole with a 2×4 in the way.  Last step,  slide your plywood back into place and using screws secure it to the platform.  This will just prevent the plywood from vibrating when the appliances are in use.

Make It Pretty!:

Next up ?  Make it pretty!  I wanted to make my platform look very polished and a little more beefy. So I added a 1×6 board to the face of my platform.  I left mine with a small lip  on the top.  My husband assures me that  it’s not necessary,  but in my mind I feel like this tiny lip could potentially  prevent a washer from vibrating right off.  Still debatable who is correct,  but I did it, and I don’t regret it.   To add the board measure the width of the from of your platform,  cut your board and screw it to it!

 Now we are to the fun part,  making it look pretty!  Next  I went through and filled all the visible screw holes using DAP Plastic Wood.  It is easy to apply.  Once dried I used a small sanding sponge to remove any excess filler.  It creates a smooth flawless surface!

Once all the holes are filled we can move on to filling any unseemly , seams… see what I did there?   I used DAP ALex caulk to fill all the seams where my platform and met the walls.  This will blend any discrepancies and  make it  look like a flawless built.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip.  Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to.

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!

Once it is all caulked you are ready to go!  DAP Alex Caulk  is paint-able within 30 mins. So,  by the time you have you paint out and prepped you will be good to go!   I wanted my platform to match my Open Shelves and my newly installed Upgraded Baseboards,  so I painted  my  platform Ultra Pure White by Behr.

 Isn’t she a beauty!?  I have all the base work done,  now comes the fun part!  I get to put all the finishing touches on the laundry room.  Make sure you check back for the reveal of this tiny Laundry Room Makeover later this week!

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Laundry Room Pedestal / Platform appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Ask anyone who knows me well. I have been geeking out over this shop long before we ever started it. I always said “it is going to be the prettiest shop you have ever seen!”. Well I challenged myself and I was definitely accepting that challenge.   I set out to combine 3 things I adore in life,  organization, woodworking, and making things beautiful and functional.

In order to meet all those parameters I  teamed up with my good friends at Rockler.  They were able to help me bring my vision to life. Even if you have never built a cabinet in your life, they have all sorts of  jigs and goodies that will  make the process painless! So without further ado,  let me show you what Rockler, and I have created!

If you are a bit hesitant to start making cabinets,  consider this. It’s just a box! Seriously, the carcass of most cabinets is just a box. That’s it.   It’s often the doors, hardware, and hinges that make potential DIYer’s clam up.  That’s were Rockler can help! 

When organizing, and building cabinets I love to have a ton of drawer space! Again,  drawers are just more boxes… boxes with glides.
 I am not going to lie, drawer glides use to terrify me. I could spend an hour measuring and leveling and  my drawer would still sit all wonky.  That is where jigs can save you hours,  if not days of frustration.  It will hold your glides perfectly distanced, and level so you can install them. ( I used these  glides (and love them) and you can get the “Drawer Slide Jig” here. 

Alright, so that eliminates drawers. What’s next? Drawer front?  Again, nothing to get bent out of shape over. In my case I used a piece of plywood and then banded the edges.  Then with the use of these awesome “Drawer Front Clamps”, I installed them  using screws from the interior of the drawer.
Next up, the dreaded hinge. ( I’m serious, I should not openly admit this but I use to absolutely SUCK at installing hinges.  My doors sat all sorts of wonky, and I was constantly shimming and filling holes like it was going out of  style.) After a few years I finally  started to get the knack of it, but there is an easier way to install them. You guessed it jigs.

I have used a couple of different jigs for drilling the cupholds. (Kreg being another great one!) But, Rockler has something that is amazing for when you are doing a series of cabinets. (Rockler Concealed Hinge Jig) This jig allows you to set both cuphold measurements and lock them in place so you can repeat drill all of the holes for all the cabinet doors! No measuring and marking each cuphold individually.  Brilliant!

Once all the cupholds are drilled you simply transfer the center measurement for your door and mark them on the interior of your cabinets.  Normally for this step you are required to make exact measurements to ensure everything lines up… Well  that’s were another jig can help!

Okay, see that wasn’t so hard!?  Let the jigs do all the thinking. Once you have the basics of cabinet making down, you can start evolving the process.  You can start to customize cabinets to fit not only  your sizes but also your needs, and that is exactly what I did!  Check out some of the cool things you can do once you dive into the world of cabinets!

Check out this cabinet I built specifically for my router table! Again, if  you really think about it , it is just boxes and drawer glides!  I just customized the drawers to hold a router table.

What about this beauty ?Again,  it is just a box that I added “Heavy-Duty Drawer Glides” and teamed them up with some awesome “Locking Castors” and an added a platform.  This unit will serve as a miter station, and will house my planer. It will easily  keep it stowed,  but still be  easily accessible for use, plus OF course it is super stable thanks to the glides and the locking castors.

The last thing I had to figure out was the counter top.  I had already used a PureBond plywood method on my other workstations and it worked great. So why mess with a good thing?  The one tricky part was making a counter top that was longer than 8′.  So I simply spliced it together.   I then “banded” the edges with premium pine 1×2″ boards. This would give it the appearance of a heftier top,  and would also give it some rigidity. 

Once those were in place it was looking gorgeous!  For any of you wondering.  I used approximately  12 sheets of Purebond plywood.  They have excellent cabinet grade 3/4″ plywood in Birch that is a dream to work with. It is stain-able, which is another reason I selected it for the counter stops.

While these cabinets were absolutely  gorgeous in their raw wood state, I had a vision, and I couldn’t let it go. Instead I decided to paint the bases and stain the top! (Bases: “Cityscape” by Sherwin Williams/ Countertop: “Golden Oak” by Minwax) 

Oh ,oh, oh!  I almost forgot!  I also built a really  small drawer directly below my miter saw to house all my safety gear… but it also manages my dust collection system!  I have a dust collection system that runs behind all my cabinets and hooks up to various tools. Well, instead of walking all the way to the other side of the shop to turn the dust collection off and on,  I simply  hooked it up to a christmas light remote! Simple,  but brilliant, right !?

 Ok,  so  I have shown you  some of my favorite customized features,  but I didn’t just stop there.  Even the smallest detail had my full attention. Check out the hardware !  I was able to find both the pulls and knobs from Hobby Lobby. Ok,  just a few more,  just because it is so dang pretty!

Well  what do you think?  I don’t know about you,  but I truly feel  like it is the prettiest shop ever!

If you love this build you might be interested in some of the other shop organization projects I have created…  check it out.

Alright,  well that’s a wrap,  but stay tuned because I have big plans!  Next up?  Assembly table/outfeed table and it is going to be phenomenal!

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post My Dream Workshop Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

You better believe I built this awesome antique box with just ONE sheet of plywood! Plus, *spoiler alert* it has hidden storage!

*This post contains affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

So here is the deal, Kreg just  released another new product that will help streamline the building process!  It is called the Accu-Cut Circular Saw Track Guide . Much like the Kreg Rip-Cut Precision Circular Saw Edge Guide, it works on a track system that now allows the user to cut long angles!  It has a grip pad base that is slip resistant.  It can also  be used in conjunction with the Rip-Cut to cut down large panels! Nice huh?

So, to kick off the  release of the Accu-Cut, Kreg is holding a One Sheet Contest.  Anyone  can submit a project  for a chance to win some amazing prizes!  Seriously,  check out some of these prizes!

The rules are simple,  you can only  use one sheet of plywood,/MDF,/particle board. You can include veneer banding and hardware, but that’s it! The contest runs until September 30th! So put on your thinking caps and start building, because this is going to be awesome!

So how do you enter?  Easy. You can submit a project by uploading your project images to Kreg or posting on Instagram using the hashtag #KregOneSheetContest!

Alright, now I  want to brag just a little about my one sheet project…

I recall visiting my grandparents home when I was young; they had an adorable antique box that always looked beautiful and was carefully  curated with gorgeous flowing flora.  (My sister would be so proud, I just used the word “flora”.  Also, FYI I was recently educated that this style of antique box is often referred to as a “boot box”.)  I digress… I will be the first to admit I have the blackest of  thumbs.  I don’t want to brag, but I have yet to meet a plant that I cannot kill. So while the vegetation was pointless endeavor,  I figured I had a real shot at making my own spin on an antique “boot box”.  Whilst designing said “boot box “, I decided it was missing a certain something… (No, not just real flowers.) It NEEDED something… it needed hidden storage! Obviously. There is just  something about form and function aligning perfectly that makes my heart skip a beat…  Screw the real plants, with hidden shoe storage I will be happy camper, crappy silk flowers and all!

So do you want to build your own Antique Boot Box turned hidden storage?  Heck yes you do !  You can head over to BuildSomething.com for all the build details!

BUILD PLANS HERE

Thanks so much for tuning in and reading!   I can’t wait to see what projects you come up with. Feel free to tag my on Instagram. I would love to see your creations!

 Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Antique Boot Box with Shoe Storage appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.