If you aren’t a stranger around here, you are probably already up to speed on the recent office renovations. But if you are new here, might I suggest checking out phase one of this room makeover.

Brief Recap: I had been planning on an office makeover for some time. However plans changed. I was getting two new office mates! (My 11 and 9 year old would be joining me at home for school.) With the new developments I found myself in need of plenty of functional yet beautiful storage. I wanted to maximize every square inch of the office and thus this project was dreamed up, enjoy!

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Clamp
• Tape Measure
• Table Saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Hardware Jig
• Paint Roller/Brush/Sprayer
• Sanding Sponge

Materials Used:

• (x2) Pantry Cabinets
• (x6) Brass Hardware
• (x1) 3/4″ Plywood
• (x2) 1×2″ Common Board
• (x1) 1×6″ Common Board
• Nickel Gap Boards
• 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• Any additional trim boards to math existing molding and baseboards.
• Paint or stain of choice. (Pictured: Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Secure Cabinets Together

Again,  if you have been following the office makeover you are probably aware that I have been using pre-made cabinets. As I was brainstorming additional office storage I found myself perusing pre-made cabinet options and found a winner!  I found pantry cabinets in-stock at my local Home Depot! #winning  

First things first.  Unbox the cabinets  intended to create a built-in.  The cabinets will need to be secured together so that they are essentially one unit.   In order two align them properly, I used clamps to hold the two cabinets together while I secured them together.

  I recommend securing the two units together on the interior sides of the cabinets.  I  secured them at  8 different points,  using a  1 1/4″  wood screw. 

 After  the two units are essentially one it will need to be leveled and secured to the wall. Most homes are level,  mine is not. Ha, I needed to use several shims to make my cabinet level. Once the unit is level it can be secured to the wall. (I will  hide the gap when adding trim.) 

Mark stud placement and drive a 3″ screw through the interior back of your cabinet and into the stud behind it.  Repeat this step a minimum of 4 times per unit. 

Change Door Orientation

 Most  pre-made cabinets will  have doors that swing out in the same direction. I wanted my cabinet doors to both swing out as if it were an armoire.  In order to achieve this look,  I needed to change the orientation of one of the doors.  SOME cabinet companies anticipate this and add pre-drilled holes to accommodate a quick switch. 

Others do not, in which case you will need to transfer the measurements to the blank side and reinstall the hinges.  I did this for both top and bottom swing out doors. 

Build Upper Unit Carcass

Now we are to the fun part, building! Before you dismiss this project because of its perceived skill level, take a beat and hear me out. It’s just a box you guys! Just a box. In order to get the correct sizing you just need to follow some formulas.

WIDTH – Width of the installed cabinet – 1 1/2″= “Upper Interior Width”

DEPTH- Depth of installed cabinet – 3/4″ – 1/2″ = “Upper Side Depth

HEIGHT– This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Mine are 10′ ceilings. Measure from the top of the already installed cabinets, to the ceiling, then subtract 1.5″. This will be the height dimension.

Upper Unit Sides (x2) = height x width

Upper Unit Top and Bottom (x2) = width x depth (If additional shelves are desired cut any additional boards to the same above dimension.)

Secure the upper interior boards to both side boards using pocket holes and pocket hole screws. The top interior board will sit 4″ from the top of the side boards. This will be hidden by a trim piece. If you prefer to just have a free standing unit without trim, then disregard the 4″ drop and install flush with the ends of the side boards.

Shelves

SHELVES*- If a shelf is desired it can be added now. My preferred method is to use a pocket hole jig and drill pocket holes along the long front edge and both ends. (If the shelf is above eye level, I use pocket holes on the top of the board, if it is below eye level I drill pocket holes on the bottom of the board.) In this case I drilled pocket holes on the top of the shelf board and then secured a 1×2″ common board cut to the same length. This will reinforce the shelf and prevent from sagging. Using the pocket holes drilled on both ends secure to the interior of the cabinet carcass. The placement is personal preference. ( You can always make this and adjustable shelf if preferred.)

Construct Face Frame

After the box is assembled, the carcass will need a face frame. The face frame is comprised of 1×2″ and 1×6″ common boards. These four boards can either be attached directly to the cabinet using wood glue and a finish nailer, or you can use a pocket hole jig and secure them together on the back of both ends of the “rails”. ( See below image as a reference.)

Rail Length = Width of the base cabinet – 3″

Stile Height = This will vary dependent on your ceiling height. Use the same measurement that was used when cutting the “Upper Cabinet Sides”

Cabinet Back

In order to create cohesion in my office I opted to back my open style cabinet with shiplap/ nickel gap boards. This is not necessary and a simple MDF board will do. In either situation it is a simple case of measuring the height and width of the back of your cabinet and cutting the boards to fit. I installed mine using wood glue and an 1.5″ 18. gauge nail .

Paint (Can be painted once complete.)

Painting method and order are all a matter of personal preference. I opted to spray the cabinet doors and the custom made upper unit in my shop, and painted the pantry cabinets in place. (Sherwin Williams Repose Gray 150%)

Install Upper Unit

I enlisted the help of my husband to set the upper unit. It was pretty beefy with the 3/4″ ship lap backing! Assuming all dimensions were carefully taken it should fit like a glove! Once properly placed drive 1 1/4″ screws though the top interior of the pantry cabinets and into the base of the upper cabinet (or vise versa). The goal is make sure the upper unit if solidly secured to the base cabinet.

Add Hardware

Hardware is always optional, but when it comes to creating a truly custom look I think they are a must! My cabinets did not have any predrilled holes so I used the dimensions based on the hardware I selected.

When drilling hardware holes I suggest using a jig. I recently started using this one and I love it!

Add Trim Work

In my opinion, trim work is the element that turns a piece of free-standing furniture into a built-in. It just gives it this sophisticated look and I dig it! In this case

I reinstalled my baseboards and installed shoe molding around the base perimeter of my armoire. If you have any questions about installing baseboards I have a full tutorial here. 

On the top of the unit I used the same crown moulding I had through out the room. The only struggle I had was figuring out want color to paint the moulding! Throughout the room the crown moulding and the baseboards are all pure white. Well, my built-ins are Sherwin Williams “Repose Gray”, I wasn’t sure what color the trim should be. After counseling with some friends it was decided it definitely needed to match the built in unit. So, my crown moulding actually changes colors in the corners! Rest assured, it looks great and I haven’t given it a second thought since. It looks bomb.

Well, what do we think? It’s amazing isn’t it? Beautiful, functional, and fairly easy. The ultimate DIY trifecta.

But wait there is more,  I did mention it was functional right?  I made sure to add some extra charging stations so that I could have my electronics!

If you know me, you know I needed to add as much function as absolutely possible. I even added some power strips to the drawer that would serve as my kids electronics charging station. Now we always know where they are, and they go in the drawer when not in use. It is awesome!

Then of course there is the obvious storage. It holds so much stuff! Overall I call this build a complete success.

Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Convert a Cabinet Into a Built-In Armoire appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Based on my current Instagram feed and auto-populated Pinterest  pins, I am not the only one who has functional office space on the brain!  I had been tossing around the idea of homeschooling my kids for the past few years,  then 2020 happened. It was the tiny nudge I needed to make the dive.   I still don’t know if this will be our long term plan, but it is certainly our current one. 

While I have dreamed about building my dream office for years, those plans were rerouted and put on the fast track.  I was about to enter  the  chaotic new school year and I needed organization and I needed it fast!  I was wanting built-ins but trying to accommodate  desks for the kids and it was proving to be a problem. UNTIL  I had brilliant ideas of how to have my cake and eat it too! This idea would allow me to have my beautiful dream office and still give my kids  each the designated workspace they needed!

Here is the clincher, I was nearly positive I could use pre-assembled cabinets to knock out this project even quicker, WINNING!

Gather Supplies

First thing I needed was cabinets! If you have ever been in a kitchen then you know the average size of a base cabinet. They are fairly large and getting them from the back of the store to the front and into your vehicle is a workout! I just ordered ahead and had mine picked up curbside! Wait, did you know you could do that !? You better believe it!

When I arrived at my local Home Depot I had my cabinets ready and waiting for me.

Modify Cabinets *OPTIONAL*

 The  biggest issue I had with using preassembled cabinets was the dimensions.  I like to make everything custom and the cabinets were are little deeper and taller than I would have preferred.  I was just going to have to deal with it… or did I ? 

  My brain started racing and I had an idea. An idea that required me to do some tweaking to the cabinet, so why not  modify the size of the cabinet as well?!

 If  you would like to read more about how  I modified the lower cabinet you can get all the details here. (This is a COMPLETELY optional step! You can easily  re-create this look with standard size cabinets.) 

Countertops

Something to consider before moving forward with  your built-ins is countertops. In the past I have used 3/4″ plywood as counters for my workspaces and have loved them. You can see them here:

• Craft Room
• WorkShop Cabinets
• X-Carve Station 
• Painting Work Station 
• Shop Assembly Table 

While there are several ways to create plywood counters I opted to do a stacked edge and then iron on edge banding to create a seamless look.   You can get the full  countertop tutorial here. 

I know I have said it before and I will say it again. There are always ways to accommodate different skill levels. If you are a little afraid to use a table saw and would prefer to just purchase counter tops, that is an option.

I actually checked out The Home Depot, they have a ton of in-store options, but if they don’t have exactly what you are looking for in-store, I am certain you can find it online. Not only can you find exactly what you are looking for, you can also rely on fast and free shipping on over one million items! #winning

Build Shelves / Upper Supports

Now that I had my upper and lower cabinets home, I needed to create a unified large unit that felt like a custom built-in. I needed to connect the dots! The first step would be forging a connection between both base units and their corresponding upper units.

I had an idea. I would create a shelf that would not only unify the upper and lower cabinets but it would also serve as shelves and a platform to support my upper cabinets! Win.

While this is a simple build I understand that sometimes using a new tool can be an overwhelming and daunting task. By virtue of the fact that you are here, means you are in in the right place. There are a ton of great resources online to help you learn new skills. As a safe bet I love to direct people to The Home Depot Guides . I know with full confidence that I am sending you to a credible source written by professionals for beginners.

The cabinet units are a simple build and would actually be a great beginner project. I designed this project hoping that it would be feasible for a novice learner but also present a more skilled builder options to create one-of-a kind pieces.

Things to consider:

Height and Width- The size of these shelves will vary depending on the height of your ceiling and your cabinet selections. For a size reference I have 10′ ceilings , so I designed my connecting shelf unit to be 27″ tall. I used 30″ wide cabinets, so I built my shelves to be the exact width and depth as my upper cabinets.

(Cabinets come in MANY different dimensions, which is yet another reason that this project could work for any size or space.)

Backing – I knew I wanted to use shiplap boards behind my open shelving areas. Before building I needed to take into account the 1/2″ thickness of my shiplap boards when I was building my units.

Build Upper Unit

The two towers that would frame in my desk were looking beautiful, now it was time to connect the unit together! As I said before I wanted this to have a built-in feel. In order to create this look I needed the unit to come within a few inches of the ceiling so that I could add ceiling molding and give it a true built-in feel.

I decided to make one very long unit to span the distance between the two towers. For size reference my upper unit is 25″ tall and 104″ long. It is not a small unit, but like I said, the build is a simple one and can be altered to fit any space.

Things to consider when building:

Backing: I needed to take into account the depth of my backer boards (in my case shiplap boards) when designing/building. One option would be to attach all the units directly to the wall and then paint the wall to create a unified feel. It would eliminate the need to accommodate a backing board and save some money.

Length: My unit is pretty big! I didn’t want to compromise the length of my desk. I wanted to maximize as much of the office wall as I could. This required the use of longer than standard 96″ boards being ripped and cut. (You could technically splice, fill and sand two boards together.)

If you are a little skittish about building a big unit, this is totally optional for this built in desk. In reality all you need is the two base cabinets and a desk to span the distance between them, but I have always been “extra” and I like it. We are all in different phases of life, do what works for you!

Painting

Before I brought my units inside I opted to paint them in my shop. Regardless if you are using a sprayer or rolling paint on here are my tried and true steps for painting cabinets:

• Lightly Sand (Even with brand new cabinets.)
• Roll or Spray first coat of primer OR  paint and primer. 
• Allow to dry. 
• Lightly sand with a fine grit sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another coat of paint.
• Allow Dry. 
• Lightly sand with a finish sanding sponge.
• Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. 
• Apply another  coat of paint. 

Repeat this process until you have full coverage.  Once full coverage is achieved stop!  Do not lightly sand the topcoat.  This process has always given me a beautiful smooth finish. 

 Prime, and paint all units and allow ample time for them to dry before beginning install.  If you would prefer paint in place (which  I would if I were rolling) then skip this step for now and revisit after the units are installed.

Install

Here it starts to get tricky and is a reason that I can’t give an in-depth tutorial when it comes to built-ins. All spaces are tricky and have odd quirks. For instance, our floor slopes slightly and one of our walls bows. Something to consider as you proceed. While there may be a few hiccups you need to work around in your home the basics order remains the same.

Something to consider: If you are planning on trimming out the unit to look like a built-in you will need to remove the existing base boards and potentially crown molding. (Depending on the height of your unit.)

Bring in the base cabinet with countertop installed. ( I secured my countertop from underneath, driving 1 1/4″ through cabinet supports and into the countertop.)

 Stack the previously assembled shelf on top of the countertop. I designed mine to be centered on my countertop. I then used pocket holes to secure the shelf to the countertop.    This is where you will see how close your measurements were!   The goal is to have the joints meet flush and then fill with wood filler. If  you are slightly off, no big deal.   It’s easy enough to add a small piece of scribe molding to hide any discrepancies.  

Repeat the same process for both towers.  It is at this point that I was ecstatic with the look but also… “WHOA this thing is ginormous!”. 

Next,  the connecting shelf needs to be set in place.  My husband had to help me put this behemoth in place.  Again, I paid close attention to the seams  showing at the visible end of the cabinet. 

Install Nickel Gap Board

Once the upper shelf unit is secured I started to dial in all my dimensions. I measure the distance between my two upper cabinets and then cut a 1×6″. board using the those measurements. I then installed the board at the base of the unit connecting my two lower cabinets. This will stabilize the entire unit and ensure that it is square but will also give me a board to attach my shiplap/nickel gap boards to!

     A nickel gap/shiplap board is not at all necessary for  built-ins.  In actuality it requires a little extra planning (Take into consideration the depth of the board when building the units, and it is an additional cost. But the heart wants what the heart wants.) I  had a ridiculous desire to have my boards centered in the unit. So I made my life far more complicated than it needed to be and started in the center.   I attached my nickel gap boards directly to the back of the unit using 2″ finish nails and an 18 g nail gun. 

Secure Unit to Wall

This is step is not required but suggested. Once the backing is attached I secured it to the wall. I found that the best connection points was inside the upper and lower cabinets. Before pushing the entire unit flush to the wall I took note of the stud placement so that I could use those dimensions. Using a 3″ screw I anchored the massive unit to the wall. Again, not necessary but suggested. I didn’t want to run the risk of it toppling should it be used as a jungle gym, but also I knew I would want to trim in the unit to match the existing floor and ceiling trim molding.

Install Desk

Last thing I needed to add to this built-in desk, was a desk! Depending on your preferred height install supports on both base cabinets.  The desk will span between these two supports.  

Once supports are installed place the desktop on top of the supports. Once certain of a proper fit apply an adhesive where the bottom of the desk board and the side supports meet. Then using a 1 1/4″ screw attach the 1×3 back desk support to either the wall or in my case the ship lap boards.

Finishing Touches

While my local Home Depot has a great selection of lighting, I had a very specific idea in mind when it came to the finishing touches for the space. I wanted a light fixture that was simple, and elegant. I wanted it to add to the look of the space while not being a distraction. Thus the reason I opted to remove the existing one. It was AWESOME and such a statement piece, but it felt distracting.

* Do you want to swap out a light fixture but don’t know how? Remember those Home Depot guides I mentioned earlier? They have you covered: “How to install a light fixture.” I am telling you guys, they have it all!

  It’s amazing how the little details can make a huge difference to a space. I feel that throwing in a few books and the new light fixture warm the whole office up! 

Without further ado, I give you my completely transformed office using builder grade cabinets! 

Would you ever look in the space and feel like someone just tossed some kitchen cabinets in the room?  Nope!   Using premade cabinets for this project allowed me to knock out this project in a fraction of the time and would be a project that could easily be tailored to any space or skill level.

 Thanks so much for following along with the office makeover, and stay tuned I just might have some more plans up my sleeve.  

Take Luck, 

Corey 

Sources:

• Nickel Gap Board : The Home Depot
• Upper Cabinet: The Home Depot 
• Lower Cabinets : The Home Depot 
•  Liberty Bronze Drawer Pulls :The Home Depot 
• Old- Cage Light Fixture: The Home Depot –Home Decorators Collection 
• New- Drum Light Fixture : The Home Depot 
• Wall Color-  Pure White Behr 
• Cabinet Color – Repose Gray 150% 
• Rolling Chairs- Facebook Marketplace  ( You can get something similar here.) 

The post Create a built-in Office Using Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

First things first, I  needed a workspace that would not only accommodate my new “x-carve”,  but  I also wanted to start to get acquainted with my new tool.  What better way to do that then to build it a kick *ss shrine that would hold all of it’s gadgets, and  let me start learning how to use it!?  So today,  I am showing you how I pulled together a awesome Inventables workstation out of OLD CABINETS!!!

Let’s dive in, shall we?  I started with these two old cabinets I inherited from a old school renovation.

 I needed to create enough space so that the X-Carve would have plenty of space,  so I put the two cabinets back to back.  That created enough width,  but I still needed length… so  I went into my OLD garage and pulled out a cabinet I had made for my previous shop.  It would be perfect for the end cap of the “cart” I was making, plus it had plenty of storage for all the accessories  you can purchase for your X-Carve!

(In case you were wondering, yes, I did need to modify the depth of one of the cabinets in order for the two  teal color cabinets to meet the same width as the end cap cabinet. See image below.) 

Next, I wanted this  X-Carve workstation to be mobile. So with some help I flipped this thing over and added some beefy castors.

Next up counter top!  If you are interested in how I make my counter tops I go into more detail on that here. Now is the fun part!  Really  tricking it out with features specific for the X-Carve. With the X-Carve  you can cut into sheets of plywood, MDF. acrylic, metal, plastic, corian…  you get the picture. (Want to see what else it can cut? Click here!)  It can cut a TON of different materials, so I decided to build a shelf that would house all my specialty materials!  I just made sure to build my counter top was large enough that is would over hang on one side giving me enough space to mount my materials shelf.  Next  up?   The X-Carve is controlled by computer, so NATURALLY  my X-Carve table NEEDED a place that would house my computer… So I took out one of the drawers……AND modified it to fit my computer!  I just gave it a flat surface that I could easily access, and beefed up it’s drawer glides.

Another feature the X-Carve has is a dust collection arm!  You just hook it up to a shop vac and you are good to go!  So NATURALLY I wanted to have my shop vac built into my table… naturally. So I took out some shelving, drilled some holes for access and airflow and this puppy was ready! 

That  just about does it for the logistics… now for the fun part!  Like I said, this was my first attempt at using the X-Carve,  I wanted to start simple,  because lets face it, I had no clue what I was doing!  So I hopped on EASEL. Easel is a FREE program you can use to easily design just about anything you can imagine! Seriously,  head on over and see what you can design in just a few minutes of playing around.  For my first project I appropriately decided to finish up my Inventables X-Carve table with something straight up pretty!

For the finishing touch I added this beauty! It was amazing how simple it was to design and I was blown away at the precision and detail this machine can produce!  I was able to create the crowning jewel of this table in a little over an hour… of the machine doing the work for me! NICE.  

So without any further ado, I give you the beginning of a beautiful relationship  between my X-Carve and I!!!

My “Inventables” workshop table. 

Doesn’t that sign  just complete this project!??! I simply stained it, and mounted it with some black hardware and this sign steals the show!  I can’t wait to start and use this thing EVERYWHERE!  Until then,  check out the rest of this beauty.

 Plenty of storage for accessories, and projects, and you can see the far end where I made the material storage. I simply added a strap of thick elastic and attached it with screws and washers. Its easy to get materials out, but yet they won’t fall out.  win/win

Now, remember how this island was created by putting two cabinets back to back?  There is still plenty of storage on the other side too! Booyah! Well,  there you have it folks.  I have a new tool,  which always makes me happy,  an organized space to use it.. and my brain is straight up swimming with fun new ways to use this things, so stay tuned! You aren’t going to want to miss it!

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Workshop Table for X-Carve (Using OLD cabinets!) appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all!  As most of you know the last 8 months my husband and I have been building my workshop.  Now that the entire structure is complete (You can see the gorgeous interior here.)  I have been working around trying to get this shop up and running smoothly.

So here is the deal. I have accumulated a lot of mismatched cabinets over the years.  They all went into my previous work spaces, and they were great at keeping me close to something resembling organized.  However, now that I have a lot more workshop, I have decided to build a whole wall of custom cabinets. (Stay tuned for those!) Regardless, I felt like a complete monster tossing all my old cabinets, so I decided to do what I do best. UPCYCLE!  Today I am happy to  join forces with the great team at DAP and I am going to you  show how I used two thrift store cabinets and turn it into a highly functional, (not to mention straight up PRETTY) workshop assembly table.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Humble Beginnings

Like I said, it all started with two $15 cabinets that I purchased a few years ago at a local Habitat for Humanity store front.  I bought these because they had pull out storage (not visible in the image below) and they were cheap and in decent shape. I just needed to hide all the clutter and these fit the bill.

So instead of using them as traditional wall cabinets, I thought a little outside the box.  I instead attached them together, to create an island of sorts.  I just put them side by side and using  screws secured them to each other.     The cabinets by themselves will be a lot of great storage, but I wanted to kick it up a notch.   From the beginning I was planning on using this as a painting/finishing station. So instead of just slapping on a piece of paneling to hide the ugly back of the cabinets, I built a quick shelf that would serve as the backside of the cabinet. WHHHATTT?  Mind blown right?

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Adding Shelves

Like,  I said I still needed to add a piece of paneling to the backside of the cabinets, to instead I just glued it using DAP Wood Glue, and simply applied it to the back of the newly constructed shelves and lay paneling on top. I tack mine in place with a finish nailer to hold it while the glue cures.  ( I painted my shelves in advance so I wouldn’t have to paint in all the small corners.) Okay,  now we are going to beef this baby up! I wanted this to be on castors so that  I could wheel it around my shop.  In order to do that I needed a really  solid base. I made a basic frame out of 2×3 boards.  This will also serve as a lip/pedestal for the shelf to sit on.  So that the shelves and cabinets are sitting back to back with good support.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – It’s All About That Base

Once the base was completed I attached it to the underside of my cabinets.  It is at this point I put my cabinets and the newly  made shelves together.  I screwed  the 2×3 base to the bottom of the cabinets, as well as the new shelves. Once it was all secured, I then screwed the shelf to the cabinet. From the way my cabinets are made, it seemed like it needed base support in order to properly work.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – The Castors

Next up castors!  I purchased mine at Home Depot.  I used two swivel and two swivel with a locking option. I put the locking castors in opposite corners so that I could keep the island still if needed,  but still mobile.   Alright, now here comes my artistic side.  I wanted this thing to be pretty and functional,  so I needed to make this unit look like ONE unit,  not just a hodge podge of discarded items.  That is where all my DAP products come into play!  It is essentially my base layer of makeup. And BOY did these cabinets need it.  I started by filling all the screw holes from their previous installation.  For this I found that DAP Plastic Wood worked best. Once dried, I went over it with a sander, and the sides were a nice clean canvas for my paint. 

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Paint The Doors

The last thing that needed to be prepped for paint was the doors. I had found some AWESOME hardware I wanted to use, and they did not jive with the current hole positions.  So, easy fix.  I grabbed my Plastic Wood, filled the holes ! After it dried, I smoothed it out with a sander. VOILA!  What holes? While I had the sander out, I made sure to give all my cabinets a good sanding.  When painting laminate you want to make sure all the surfaces are sanded enough to create a dull finish.  The small scuffs will allow the paint to properly adhere. 

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Painting W/ Primers

There is a lot of controversy over paint w/primers vs.  priming then painting. I like to live on the wild side, so I used Sherwin Williams paint with primer  and have zero complaints!  If you are wondering I used “Cityscape”,  I just happened to have  a few gallons left from when I painted our home’s exterior.  (You can read all about it here.)  Once the base was painted I was read to move onto the counter top. Before I could add a counter top I needed to build up the top 3/4″. Reason being… I wanted to add a banding around the edge of my  counter slab and if I did not build it up, my cabinet doors would have not been able to open.  I digress, I built up the top using 1×2 boards.  These will support my  plywood counter.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – The Countertop

In order to make a beautiful counter top I used a piece of PUREBOND  3/4″ plywood.  They are beautiful pieces that a stain quality and would be a gorgeous feature to my island.  As I stated before I wanted to add a band/edging to my counter, so on the underside I used a Kreg Pocket jig and drilled out pocket holes around the perimeter. Next up?  The edging. I simply measured the edges and cut to fit and used a basic butt joint.  Before attaching a applied a small amount of wood glue to ensure a snug fit. Now…  before I flip this sucker over and install, I started to get creative. I wanted to add a rool of paper to the under side of my  workstation that I could use much like a table at a Dr’s office. I wanted to be able to pull up a new sheet when I was working with paint and stain, and then rip it off when I was finished. SO, I  needed a way to hand said roll of paper. Well,  I went to my drawer of random hardware and THIS is the Macgyver solution  I came up with, carabiners, screws and multiple washers. I there a better way to do this ? Probably, but this is what I had on hand and it worked for me! 

Alright,  now I was ready to flip it over and secure it in place… to do that I fastened it from the inside of the cabinets.  (You guys, it took me  an extra three minutes to try and figure out how to word that without making it sound dirty.) #winning 

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Paper Holder

Alright we are in the HOME STRETCH ! Last thing it needed was to somehow create a way to feed the paper  up and  hold the paper in place. In order to do that I used  two (one for each end)  1×2″ boards,  cut to the width of the counter. I was going to need to attach them via screw at the very edge of the board, so I pre-drilled and countersank  each end. Then using a small washer as a spacer I  drove the screw through the end cap board and through the washer and into the actual counter top edge.  This washer would give me  the gap I needed to feed my paper through.  I did this on BOTH ends.  The result?  Nothing short of magical! I clean work space!  Last thing I needed to do was ad my roll of paper.  So instead of building my entire table to fit my paper roll,  I simply cut my paper to fit my table.  #geniusNow just install that sucker! I then fed the paper back down  the other end. Nice crisp, clean work space.  

 There you have it!  Isn’t she a BEAUT !? 

Look at how much it can store! It just makes my heart happy.   There is that hardware I was telling you about. How perfect are they?!Plus, PLENTY of easily accessible storage. I call that a win!   That about wraps this build up!  Thanks for following along.

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The post Workshop Paint/Assembly Table appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

 

 

Hey All!  So a little introduction to this next makeover.  It is kind of a big deal to me,  you see it was my first big furniture makeover.  It all started when I was at IKEA browsing the “Scratch-and-Dent” bargain area about 7 years ago.  That’s when I saw it, an Expedit console in the dark brown!  I know this may seem odd that I was excited about it, but I was thrilled!  You see, my husband and I had just moved and we were currently using a (Free) small bench as a T.V. stand.  We also had a 1 year old that was now standing up and trying to grab at the T.V.  We definitely  needed something that would keep it out of slobbery/goldfish covered hands.  So, I bought it then and there.  70% off, I couldn’t pass that up!?

Fast-forward 3.5 years, and  you would find me sitting on the floor of our little condo with a hand saw, (yes HAND SAW) good old fashion hammer and nails, with wood glue trying to give my little IKEA console a makeover. (I actually ended up dismantling the original,  simply because I needed to document the process. That’s commitment people!  The second time around I had access to power tools.)

I had no clue what I was doing, but after staring at that boxy piece, that showcased all my kids diapers, tonka trucks, and modem wires, I had had it.  Honestly, I think  my husband might have thought I had snapped. THIS was my first big project and the start of a beautiful on-going relationship with upcycles.  You can see more of them here. 

IKEA Makeover into Pottery Barn Style Apothecary

 Materials Used:

• Old Ikea shelf or something similar
• 1×2’s
• 1×4’s
• 2×4’s
• 2×8’s
• Lattice Strips
• Wood Glue
• Stain
• Foam Brushes
• Drawer Pull/Tag Pull
• Magnetic Cabinet Catch

 Tools Suggested :

• Nail Gun
• Compressor
• Table Saw
• Miter  Saw
• Sander

DISCLOSURE: SOME OF THE LINKS PROVIDED  ARE AFFILIATE LINKS. BY PURCHASING THROUGH THESE LINKS IT SUPPORTS THIS SITE AND HELPS KEEP CONTENT FREE. YOU CAN READ MORE ABOUT HOW WE DO THIS WITH NO EXTRA COST TO YOU.

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BEFORE we dive into this,  please understand that these are not BUILD PLANS.  I don’t have specific measurements.  This tutorial is intended to be more of a general guideline that can be applied toward many different size/style pieces.

Step 1: Add Height –

 I wanted to give the base some visual weight, so I began by adding height to the base.  I found the easiest way was to flip it over and attached 2″x 4″  boards directly to the base of the unit.

 Then  turn right side up. Next   task is to I cover  the exposed 2″x 4″s by adding 1″x 4″ boards (trim)  to the base.  I cut the boards with 45 degree angles on the ends.

  I   secured the trim piece (1″x 4″ boards) with wood glue, and reinforced with 2″ finish nails. 

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Step 2:  Repeat on Top-

Now that the base is beefed up, I wanted to give the top a little more thickness as well. However I wanted it to be a little lower profile than the base, so I used 1×4’s instead of 2×4’s.  Again,  I  just  tacked it in place,  giving the top  some extra  visual weight.

  I  used 2×8’s  for the top.  I cut them so that  would hang out over the top a little bit and give it a lip.  This step alone makes it look SO much better !

Once the top of the console was in place I  trimmed  out the top of the shelf. ( I basically  repeated  the same steps  from the base.  Only this time I was covering the 1×4’s.)

 

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Step 3 :  The Sides

Next up, sides! I decided to start in the corners.

I ended up doing mitered corners,  using my  table saw.  ( You can always  just  use a 1×3″ and 1×2″ and and have them butt into each other.)

 

It is coming together people!

I used a 1×2 to frame in the rest of the side,  leaving a large open ugly laminate area.

I  decided to use lattice,  because is has a much  smaller profile and would  create  depth.  That,  and I just love the look of it, and it’s cheap!

Using a sander I scuffed up the laminate,  because I was planning out using glue to help  hold the lattice in place, and everything sticks better to non-glossy  surfaces.

I simply measured, cut, glued, nailed, and then repeated on both sides of the console.

 

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Step 4:  Dividers

At this point you can easily  call it good enough and move on to painting and/or staining.   But not me.  I had to go all “Corey” on it.  I decided to hide any evidences of laminate. Including the shelf fronts.

Once  I had completely covered all traces of laminate,  I moved on the “drawer” front.

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Step 5: Drawer Fronts 

1.)  I cut a piece of paneling  that was the dimensions of the  cubby  opening.  I also cut 1×4’s the same width.

2.)  Using liquid nails I adhered the planks on to the piece of paneling.

3.) After it had completely dried I sanded it.

4.) It’s now ready for stain and hardware.

Once  I had made all my drawer fronts,  using  1×2’s I cut two strips of wood  that were the same  width of  EACH cubby. (These will be used  to install the drawer fronts. )

The strips of wood that I cut out of 1×2’s  are  used  to  keep the drawer front in place.   The “drawer” panel will rest against the wood slats and the magnetic  catch will hold it in place.  This system works PERFECTLY  for appliances like  printers, computers, routers, etc!

I  personally  did make a few drawers to hold the kids toys and diapers.  (I won’t be going into that today) But if you have your heart set on it,  it is totally  doable.

If the idea of making drawers sounds overwhelming,  maybe you should consider making some simple crates ?  Possibly  using decorative baskets ? Ikea  also makes a whole line of baskets meant to fit their shelves.  The possibilities are endless!

Seriously,  look at how much crap those little magnetic catch doors can hide!!?   There is always a way to make form and function meet.  Sometimes it takes a lot of elbow grease, and seriously stubborn disposition, but it is possible!

   

 

 

 Take Luck.
Corey

The post IKEA Makeover into Pottery Barn Style Apothecary appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all!  You all KNOW I love a good furniture makeover/upcycle/re-purpose project right ?  Well, if you didn’t I am telling you now! (You can check out my other re-purposed furniture projects here.)  There is something about the challenge!  (As a builder it is normally easier for me to start from scratch.)  I love working with something  plain ol’ Jane and giving it a very satisfying transformation.  Admit it, you love that part of Fixer Upper, Princess Diaries, etc…  For today’s project I am teaming up with the great folks at Kreg,  to show you, you don’t need to be a skilled craftsman to add  the “WOW” factor to those old pieces of furniture gathering dust ! So let’s do this, let’s give this old cabinet a makeover!

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Cabinet Makeover 

Supplies I Used:

• Old Cabinet in need of a facelift
• Materials for Faceframe (1″x 3″ and 1″x 2″ boards are common)
• Chicken Wire
• Concealed Hinges
• 1/2″-3/4″ Plywood (for constructing the drawers)
• Heavy Duty Stapler (attaching chicken wire to interior of doors)

Tools I Used:

• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
• Steel Prybar  (I used this to remove original the original face frame)
• Miter Saw
• Drill
• Kreg Drawer Slide Jig
• Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig
• Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig
• Heavy Duty Stapler

 Step 1. The Carcass

Ok,  I know “carcass” may sound a little morbid, but  not worries, I am not loosing my mind to the nature channel. “Carcass”  is what cabinet makers refer to the base of  a cabinet. (Now you will sound official should you ever need to contribute to conversation at a woodworkers convention. You’re welcome.) Moving on.

Alright this part is not always necessary, but for the vision that I had for this, it would make it easier. Which leads perfectly into …

Step 2. Building  a Face Frame

Making a Face Frame is once of the easiest things you can do totally  change the entire look and function of  a piece.  I was able to use part of the original face frame and simply add a few rails. (“Rails” are the wooden pieces that run horizontally. As opposed to “Stiles” that run vertical.)  Look at you, learning vernacular  like a beast!

There are a lot of methods to making a “face frame”, my preferred method, (and by far the easiest in my opinion) is using a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig. They are very user friendly, and make it possible to join the rails and stiles perfectly!

Step 3. Attach Face Frame

Alright, now we are ready to re-attach our face frame.  There are several ways to do this,  you can use Kreg Pocket Hole Jig or  you can use wood glue and clamps. 

Step 4. Bring your “A” game! (Add drawers)

Remember those “rails” we added?  This is why I did it… I wanted to add drawers!  Never made a drawer ? It’s not hard , you are essentially  making a box!  The one thing that always  freaked me out about adding  drawers was installing the glides!  Am I right ? Seriously they left me cursing and then breathing into a paper bag. ( I can do hard things, I can do hard things!)  Kreg  must have heard my cry of obscenities, because they  created a jig that would save me time and bring my shop talk back to G-rated…  Well, that’s a lie, but  it was definitely closer to a PG-13 level.

They created these beauties!  GAME CHANGERS.

These Kreg Drawer Slide Jigs level, measure, gives you an extra set of hands, and makes dinner. Ok,  maybe not make dinner, but you get what I am saying,  these things help me get it right the first time!  These jigs clamp right in place and have tabs that hold it perfectly in place. Seriously, game changer.  But wait there is more!  They not only  help install the glides to the cabinet, they perfectly allow you to install the slides to the drawers themselves. No more adjusting and drilling a hundred tiny holes and praying you get it right.  The drawers are positioned for perfect alignment.  

Step 5 . Add Doors

Another great way to bring your makeover to the next level is to add doors!  I wanted to have something that would give it character,  not just a paneled door.  So,  formed two empty frame doors.
 It is a very simple build that only requires adding  Kreg Pocket Holes to the rails. Clamp them down and screw them in place…Phrasing.   Now for the hinges…  Installing hinges use to send me running for my  paper bag. Not anymore!  I used the new Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig.   You just clamp it in place and drill, then repeat.   Perfection. 

When it comes to adding the doors I like to put them on a board that rests on the ground and then attach the hinges to the interior of the cabinet.   This little trick will ensure that the doors sit perfectly with no wonky business going on.

Step 6. Add Drawer Fronts

Next I made my drawer fronts from a piece of 1’x 10″  pine.  I measure so that the drawer would be 1″ wider AND taller that the opening for the drawer. (This will create a 1/2″ overlap all the way around.)  I picked my hardware and was ready to install. Again Kreg ingenuity to the rescue.   They have create a Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig that allows yo to adjust the exact placement of your drilled holes, and has preset notches for standard width handles, pulls, and knobs!  My favorite part, is the steel collar that allows your drill to essentially  become a pseudo drill-press.  The collar ensures that the hole is drilled STRAIGHT! ( I am ashamed to admit I have had my kitchen cabinets hole placement have a little bit of crazy-eyed action going on.  No more! 

Now that the drawer front  has the pull/handle  installed,  I was ready to attach the drawer front to the drawer.  I used clamps to hold the drawer front in place and used

I like to use the same tip to add my drawer fronts as I did my cabinet doors. (See step 5. )

Step 7. Finishing Touches

I wanted to give it a little height and some farmhouse character, so I added  some screw on legs right before I painted it.  (  I removed the drawer hardware so that I could use a paint sprayer to apply the paint.)

  While that was drying I took the back ( that we already removed), and cut it up!  Yup, I cut it up into about 5.5″ strips, sanded the edges, and then painted them white as well.  This will create a fun shiplap look for the backing. Once the strips were dry  I reattached them to the back with wood glue , and reinforced with 1″ finish nails. 

I also added some trim  and a wood  slab to the top to add balance to the top. Also, I really wanted this to be a two-tone piece (paint and stain combined in the same piece).  The new trim and top slab of wood, would allow me to create the “two-tone” look.  

The only  thing  I needed to do was re-attach the doors and add “chicken wire”  to the inside of the doors and this baby was done!

  Ta-Da! Mind BLOWN! #micdrop

 Well there you have it folks, yet another win for re-purposed projects everywhere!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post A Cabinet Makeover that will turn heads! appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

It all started on a HOT Fall Florida day. My good friend Sara and I went and hit up the community garage sale.  Let me tell you, we were victorious!  I found this wood dresser in decent condition and they only wanted $15 for it. SOLD!  
What intrigued me about this piece is that it was symmetrical, (the sides naturally) but also the top and the bottom of the unit were the same! Peculiar right? Well this unique piece ended up in my garage and began collecting dust. That was until Elisha from Pneumatic Addict extended a challenge, the “Organize Build Challenge”. Challenge Accepted!

The premise of this challenge was to create a piece that would help with organization, and also included building elements.  Lucky for me, I had this dresser just itching for a nice makeover!

…and when it comes to makeovers no one does them quite like HomeRight!  I am so excited to partner up with HomeRight on this  project,  it is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)

So, let’s dive in, shall we?!

How I turned a Dresser into a Mini Mudroom

I started by throwing caution to the wind and went a little crazy!  I removed the drawers and flipped it on it’s end. MIND BLOWN, right !?

  I knew I was going to need better access to the inside of the dresser, so I removed the back.  I also removed a secondary face frame from the unit. (It just made it look too bulky.)  Next, I beefed up the base using 2×3’s. 

The reason for beefing up the base ?  I wanted to be able to add some base trim, and also give it a little bit of visual weight.  I then proceeded to do the same to the top, first by adding the 2×3’s as a base to attach the trim to.

Naturally, next I added the trim to cover up the 2×3’s on the top of the unit.  After it was trimmed out,  I went a little crazy.  I cut out some of the  divider/supports! Crazy, I KNOW! ( Don’t worry I had a plan! *fingers crossed*)

Next, I constructed a series of shelves that would be inserted and attached to the dresser.  I decided to do staggered width shelves. First for visual interest, and second  I wanted to use them for… wait for it… SHOE STORAGE! Gasp, *shock and awe*.  I know, right!?   The staggered widths would be perfect for my shoes,  boots, and would also be perfect size for my kids shoes . Also with the shorter shelves  they wouldn’t need to go fishing to reach them out of the back of the cabinet.  Once the shelves were attached, it really started to come together! *phew* Next, I needed to add doors. So, I used what I had!  I removed the faces from the old drawers.

  I definitely did not want this to look like a dresser that  I had flipped on it’s side. So, I decided to cut grooves in the panels to give a more rustic apothecary feel. Worked like a charm!

Once the panels were all sanded and prepped, I was ready to prime!  So I busted out my handy HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer and got to work!

I was able to prime both my cabinet doors and the dresser/cabinet in just a few minutes!  Part of this dresser was oak so it had a really deep set grain,  so it required two coats of primer and then it was ready for paint!

There is something about spraying on paint that I find so rewarding!  Seriously, look at how quickly I knock out this board, with ZERO brush streaks!

Once all of my painting was done, it was time to bring it all together! I decided that I wanted to add feet, so I simply  added some adapter plates, and then you screw the feet in!  Easy Peasy.

 Next, it was time to face my  aversions to hinges and install the doors.  Thank goodness it went smoothly!  Also at this point I added a piece of wood to the back of  the doors to bridge the gap. (Remember we removed the dividers earlier.)  You may ask “But Corey, Why? This seems counterproductive!”

 Well my friends this part of the reason. I wanted the two drawers/doors on the left side to be one continuous space…   it would serve as a place to hang jackets!  I even installed a pull out coat rack and key rack so that you can easily  find everything! 

  The reason I cut out the divider bar on the other spaces, is because I wanted to have easy access to the shoe storage below. ( I really didn’t want a bar right in the middle!)

Side note: I had not originally planned to have open shelving. I had installed all the doors and was preparing to install those last two, but I kept staring at it, and ultimately decided  I liked it, and that it gave it character. So  I 86’d  the two last doors.   And there you have it folks, my alternative to a mudroom! It has a place for jackets, keys, shoes, and even extra cubbies for glasses etc!  All -in – all, I will call this a success!  Thanks for stopping by and make sure you see what others did for the “Organize Build Challenge” !

Make sure you check out these other awesome bloggers!

For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Dresser Makeover into a Mini Mudroom appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

WELCOME April, and take it away….

Hi, I’m April from Uncookie Cutter.  I am so excited to be contributing here at Sawdust 2 Stitches.  Corey has been an idol of mine for awhile, so getting to work with her is a treat. I’m here to share my modern dining chair upcycle.

A little about me…In January of this year, my husband and I packed up our two kids and three dogs and moved from Virginia to small town Oklahoma.  I told my Realtor I wanted a new house in a new neighborhood.  As it turned out, we couldn’t find one that we really feel in love with–there always seemed to be something missing.  Then, on a whim, our Realtor showed us what she described as a very “UncookieCutter” house and after a million inspections and with a bit of fear, we decided to go for it.  We loved the layout,  the huge yard and the fact that we could all bike right down the road to the elementary school. However, it needed a lot of work, so I started UncookieCutter to document our journey here trying to make this house a home.

For the past couple of months I’ve been working in the dining room.  I upcycled an old piece of wood into a hanging shelf and then built my concrete top table, inspired by Restoration Hardware.  Everything was going so well until I realized how expensive dining chairs were.  I have never bought a traditional dining set, we’ve been eating off of a cheap 4 person set for years.  We could never have people over for dinner, because we had nowhere to sit.  The size of our dining room won’t allow for much more than a 8 person table, so that’s what I built.  I needed six side chairs.  I wanted them to not have fabric (remember the kids and dogs I mentioned?) and I wanted them to look a little modern, funky and fit with a table with a concrete top.  So I searched and found THESE chairs, which I thought were beautiful.

However, these chairs cost $168 a piece.  That would’ve cost me over $1,000 plus the cost of the end chairs.  I floated this by my husband, who just laughed.  Rude.  Anyway, I had to come up with another idea.

So I honestly thought about making chairs, but a good chair has a slight backwards lean to it and unfortunately I don’t have the saw to make cuts like that.  So, I needed to find some old chairs with solid bases and, low and behold, after a LOT of searching, I found some!  I couldn’t believe it, but a library was closing in a nearby, even smaller, town and I grabbed one to bring home and see what I could do with it.  I turned it into a chair that was similar to the one I wanted, but actually fit in the space better and cost about $20 per chair, making it $120 for six.  Score!

The fabric was in pretty bad shape, but the frame seemed strong, so I got to work ripping the fabric off.

Once I had all the fabric off and removed all the zillion or so staples, I sanded the whole frame down and filled the staple holes with stain-able and sand-able wood filler.  Then more sanding until they were all smooth.

Next, I had to make the seat for the chair. I took some craft paper and made a rough template a little bigger than I wanted it.

I cut one board template with my circular saw and used that template to cut out the rest, but left a little extra to allow for slight changes from chair to chair.

Like I said, I cut the boards too big on purpose, but worked with my jigsaw until they fit right into the back of the chair, then I traced each board so that I could cut the seat to match up to the frame exactly.

I bought some very pretty “craft board” in the lumber section, but I think any plywood would work.  This was made from real wood and I love the grain it shows.  Now I had to figure out how to make the top piece for the chair back.  Most chairs have a curved back to make them a little more comfortable.  Like I mentioned before, I don’t have too many fancy power tools, but I still wanted to bend the back a little bit. My father in law was visiting as I was trying to figure it out, and he told me about a presentation he once saw where they soaked the boards in water and then bent them, so I decided to give that a shot.

I cut the pieces down to size and then put them in a pan of water.  

Yes, I realized I should not leave my jig in water, I moved it and replaced it with a flower pot, but forgot to take a picture of that :).   I left it soaking in the water for a day or more.  Then I took it out and “molded” it to the top of the chairs with clamps. 

Once I got it just so, I let it sit out in the sun until it was completely dry.

I learned a couple of things trying to “bend” wood.  First, it has to be soaked all the way through or it will crack.  This will take at least a day for this size board.  Next, you have to let it dry in the mold completely or it will loose it’s shape when you take it off to stain.  And lastly, if you look at the pic above, I should have tried to make the grain of the board run horizontal instead of vertical.  I did it this way because I wanted to use every piece of the board, and it worked, but I did crack a couple and I think they would not have cracked had I gone the other way with it.

Once it was nice and dry I went ahead and popped it off to be painted.

Now that the chairs were stripped, filled and sanded and both of the seats and backboards were cut out and “molded” I was ready to paint.  I wanted the chair part to look like metal, and I’ve always been impressed with Rustoleum Metallic spray paints, but since I had six chairs and a small budget, I decided to stain them with some leftover stain and then spray paint them. So I started by staining them with Minwax Ebony.

Then I spray painted them all with Rustoleum Flat Iron. I then put a couple of coats of spray poly on.

Next, I painted the seats and backs with one light coat of Minwax Special walnut to start

When the stain was all dry,  I mixed a small mixture of leftover white trim paint with water (about 50/50 mix) and used a paper towel to lightly rub it over and blend it in.  Then 3 coats of polyurethane.

It worked better to finish the back of the backboard piece and leave the front unfinished for now.  Then I re-clamped it onto the chair, and then countersunk some screws into the board and attached it to the chair.

I waited to finish it so that I could sand down the holes without messing up the stain.  Once it was attached,  I went ahead and finished the front side.

The last thing I did before bringing them in was I glued the seats to the chairs.

Once they were inside, I added these feet.  I tried a couple of different furniture feet and these were the only ones that slid nicely, didn’t fall off and didn’t scratch my floors.

Now they really were done!  I got them all set up with my table, which you can see all the details on that HERE.

So, instead of spending over a grand, I spent about $120 on boards, stain and spray paint to upcycle these old chairs.

That was it!  And they are actually pretty comfortable.  I’d love for you to visit me over on UncookieCutter or follow me on social media.  A big, huge thank you to Corey for asking me to guest host and I’ll be back soon for some more!

April – Uncookie Cutter

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