Room Makeovers Archives - Sawdust 2 Stitches

Master Bathroom Makeover

coreydecker@gmail.com — Wed, 21 Apr 2021 01:00:00 +0000

The master bathroom… I have never been known to be a procrastinator, nor am I known to shy away from a challenge, however our master bathroom seems to be an exception to both character traits. Our master bathroom is the last untouched room in our home. Reason being, it is a HUGE undertaking not to mention it is a big investment! It took us nearly 5 years and the help from The Home Depot to light that fire!

Now that it’s done, I can’t believe it took me this long to take the plunge, the end reward is WELL worth the effort.

While I am so excited to show the finally reveal allow me to take you through a brief review of the steps we took in order to achieve our dream bathroom.

Our master bathroom actually did have some great qualities. I cannot complain about the square footage or the high ceilings. They definitely were huge advantages when designing the space. However, that is the extent of the “pros” (in my opinion). While there was plenty of space, the layout was not great, and it actually left some square footage on the table when they installed a corner unit vanity. The shower and tub were in good locations, but the wall dividing the shower created a very cave like feeling and closed off the room. While the tub was “okay”, I have always dreamed of a freestanding tub. With the many changes I wanted to make we decided the best approach was to gut the bathroom and start from the ground up. So that is just what we did!

Demo

I think as a general consensus taking the first step in a major project is always the hardest. You pass that point of no return and you are committed. That can be a seriously scary thing. Whether your doubts are in your abilities or possibly in your tool supply… to that I say: “Where there is a will there is a way.”

There are plenty of resources out there to help supplement your “know-how”. There are so many professional resources that walk you through each step! Home Depot actually has a ton of online “How-to-Guides” by the pro’s! You can check out their library of resources here.

But that brings us to the more tangible limitations…tools. AGAIN, The Home Depot has got you covered! Obviously, The Home Depot is your one -stop-shop for all this tools, but what if you are aren’t ready to invest in some of the larger tools, or possibly don’t have the space to store larger tools? The Home Depot has the answer. Did you know that you can RENT tools in-store?

You can check out all the amazing options here: The Home Depot Tool Rental

If this picture of all those readily available tools doesn’t make your heart happy, then you might be denying your inner DIY loving heart. Just saying.

The demo part of this process definitely required bringing in some scarcely used tools which would be a great opportunity to rent instead of buy. Just a thought.

Drywall Ceiling

After the demo was complete and we were down to ground zero, it was time to start rebuilding. For us the most logical place to start was by repairing all the walls.

We wanted to start with a fresh, blank canvas. So, we repaired and, in some cases, replaced the dry wall that was removed during the demo process. It was at this point that we also added Durarock to the shower.

It was amazing how much more opened the room felt once we had the dry wall replaced and skim coated all the surfaces to remove the texture.

At this point we actually. Deviated away from our original plan. The original plan did not include a planked ceiling, but the heart wants what the heart wants. We postponed our timeline and tackled adding nickel gap board to the ceiling.

It was a fairly quick project. The majority of the time was actually allotted to installing the fir stripping that we attach to the rafters that we would then attach our nickel gap boards to (running perpendicularly).

We used these Nickel Gap Shiplap Boardand I am very pleased with their quality, and they look beautiful with a paint finish.

Shower and Floor Prep

In the past all of my tile jobs have been limited to backsplashes and floors. It was always in a decorative capacity. When it came to tiling for practicality it was a whole new beast. After watching many online tutorials we were able to figure out grading the shower pan and waterproofing the walls.

Once all the walls were prepped it was time to get the tile. Again, if you are new to DIY something like selecting tile and calculating how much you will need can be overwhelming. The Home Depot is here to help. Did you know that they have project calculators? The “Project Calculator” is an awesome little feature that allows you to plug in your space dimensions, the type and size of the material you are using (in this case tile) and the feature will calculate home much tile you will need for your specific project. The project calculator is not limited to just tile, it has options for calculating materials for a plethora of projects.

After agonizing over my tile selections, I finally was able to select my colors. (There were seriously so many great options, I had a hard time narrowing it down!)

Ultimately, I went with Bianco Dolomite or the shower wall tile, Bianco Dolomite Hexagon for the shower floor and FLOOR TILE.

If you have been around awhile, you are well aware that I very rarely ever hire out help especially if the project is in my wheelhouse. Well this time my sanity won out. We ended up hiring help with the tiling portion of this project. I pride myself in doing everything myself, but this is one decision I do not regret! If you are looking for more information on tiling make sure you check out The Home Depot’s “How-To Tile a Shower” for more information.

Doors

Our home came with very basic builder grade doors, they weren’t bad but they weren’t great. I believe at this point in the project I was at the “If you give a mouse a cookie” phase. I had already gutted the entire bathroom and created my dream bathroom, why stop short? I went ALL in, and man am I glad I did. The doors actually became a focal point and carry the color up the wall. Oddly enough the doors are one of my favorite parts of the room.

I selected a simple Two Panel Door that was beautiful! (No fake wood grain on this beauty!) I also realized how much a door knob could add to the look of a door! I found these Schlage Aged Bronze Door Knob.

Install Storage

The bathroom was really coming together at this point, but I still had a few tricks up my sleeve. While the bathroom was quite large it was desperately lacking storage space. Luckily for me, the bathroom wall also shared a wall with our hall linen closet. So, I pulled a switcha–roo. I opened up the back side of the cabinet (that shared a wall with the bathroom) and closed off the original access (removing the door and adding drywall etc.)

By opening up this space to the bathroom instead of the hall it gave me room to add a linen closet and TONS of character.

If you have been following along you KNOW I have a love for built ins. I recently built a Custom Pantry that I created specifically to fit in a empty wall cavity. Shortly before that I created a custom Built-In Storage Armoire using two pre-made pantry cabinets. Well for the bathroom linen closet I took a page out of both tutorials and combined both ideas. I used several different pre-made cabinets to create one MEGA linen

Linen Closet

Install Trim Work

We are in the home stretch now! As much as I wanted to slap some paint on this sucker and call it good… I knew I wanted the classic elegance of wainscoting.

I don’t know about you but something as simple as trim work can totally elevate the space!

If you want to add trim to your space, you can check out either of these two tutorials.

I am always amazed at how much trim can add to any space. Here are the materials I prefer to use when trimming a room.

Trim Work Materials:

Nickel Gap Shiplap Board (Ceiling)
1”x 3” Finger Joint Board (Door Casing)
1”x 4” Finger Joint Board (Vertical and Horizontal Wainscoting)
1” x 6” Finger Joint Board (Baseboards)
1”x 8” Finger Joint Board (Interior Window Trim)
Hardboard Panel MDF (Back of Wainscoting)
8’ Base Cap Molding (Interior Wainscoting)
Two Panel Door

Prep and Paint

When it comes to painting, I am always torn on the painting method I want to take. I am normally really anxious to get going, so rolling really calls to me. However, I am always so much happier with the final product when I use a sprayer. I feel like both methods take about the same amount of time; the difference is when spraying you spend the majority of that time prepping rather than painting.

I wasn’t going to cut corners on this bathroom, so I rolled up my sleeves and pulled out the painter’s tape, painters’ plastic, and paper. I needed to cover anything that would not be painted.

Once everything was prepped, I got to work spraying. When spraying I use the Fuji Spray Semi-Pro Sprayer. OR, if you aren’t ready to invest in a sprayer you can always rent one from The Home Depot.

Wall Color- Snowbound
Trim/Wainscoting- Agreeable Gray

Install Fixtures

Vanity Area

This is the best part of the project, when you start to bring in all the major pieces and you start to really see the space come together. When selecting a vanity, it was important to me to have a nice countertop and have plenty of storage space. I went back and forth on quite a few different colored options but decided on something simple. If I ever want to change the look of the bathroom it is much easier to do if I have a blank canvas. Plus, the linen closet/armoire was going to be a nice warm wood tone, and I didn’t want to have to compete with it (color wise).

I selected the Home Decorators Collection Double Vanity and I love it.

I paired the vanity with a gorgeous 48” Glass Warehouse Brass Vanity Mirror/. If you have been around a little while you might recognize it from my Powder Bathroom Makeover. (I used the 36” version in the powder room.) I found that Delta faucets in their “Champagne” color collections paired best with my color palette.

The finishing touch for this space was the Home Decorator’s Collection Mini Pendant. They were the perfect size, they hung at the right height, and you couldn’t beat their price, however I needed something in brass and black. No fear, this is a DIY blog, is it not? If you have never spray painted a light fixture, no worries I have got you covered. Quite literally one of my very first blog posts covered this very topic!

Vanity Area Products:

Tub Area

Which brings us to the tub area. Words do not quite describe how excited I was for this particular area. I have never found soaking in a tub very relaxing, probably because I would sit and stare at my surroundings and think of all the potential the space had. NOW the space has met its potential and I can sit and soak it in… in my freestanding tub with a brass faucet.

When selecting my tub it was more than just aesthetics I had to consider. There were logistics to be considered, namely the size! My space allotted for the tub was not huge, so I needed to find a tub to fit those dimensions. After looking at a ton of options I landed on the Vanity Art Bordeux Tub. Naturally with an elegant looking freestanding tub, I needed to freestanding tub filler to match. I found that the Jacuzzi Contento Tub Filler was the best bang for my buck and a very close match to the tone of brass I had throughout the rest of the bathroom.

I finished off the area with the Progress Lighting Linen Shade Chandelier. If it looks familiar, that’s probably because it is! I loved this fixture so much in my Office Makeover that I decided to use it in the bathroom as well.

Tub Area Products:

Shower Area

Ready to wrap this project up? ME TOO! The last area I needed to tackle was the shower. Long before we ever started the bathroom makeover, we dreamed of having two shower heads in a bigger shower. Well, try as we might we just couldn’t configure any way to make it work. We exhausted a lot of options but ultimately decided it wasn’t in the cards.

But wait, I might not have been able to swing two full size shower heads, but a handheld option might be just the ticket! PLUS, I am really digging the look of the sliding bar in the shower, so everything works out. I have two shower heads per se, and it looks like a million bucks.

I used the Delta Stryke Shower Head and Valve(s) and the Delta Slide Bar Hand Shower.

As I was doing my research for glass shower enclosures, I realized I had to have my class custom fit. After doing a little inquiring I found that some Home Depot locations do work with specialist that can custom cut glass. Check with your local Home Depot to see if that location offers those services.

Shower Area Products:

In Review

Are you ready to see how this whole space came together?

Drumroll please…I give you my Master Bathroom Makeover!

I will admit that a bathroom remodel is not for the faint of heart, but IT IS doable! I personally have put off this project for years because of the intimidation factor. I didn’t exactly know what I was doing. However, I did not let that stop me from trying!

I looked to other colleagues for advice, scrolled through all the professional tutorials The Home Depotwebsite had to offer, and called in reinforcements when I needed it. Sometimes extra help comes in the forms of professionals and sometimes it just means more tools than what you have access too. If that is one of your hurdles, cross it off of your excuse list. The Home Depot is a great resource for tool rental, professional tutorials, AND they can even help with your custom projects with help of their material calculators.

No matter the skillset or the toolbox you can improve your home if you have will to make it happen!

Sources:

Tub Area Products:

Vanity Area Products:

Shower Area Products:

Linen Closet Products:

Trim Work Products:

Tile Products:

Bianco Dolomite Tile (Shower Wall)
Bianco Dolomite Hexagon (Shower Floor)
FLOORING

The post Master Bathroom Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Moody Board and Batten Guest Room

coreydecker@gmail.com — Tue, 15 Dec 2020 18:06:44 +0000

Has anyone else noticed that hosting guests creates an unnecessary desire to accomplish ALL THE THINGS? Including but certainly not limited to paint touch-ups, cleaning the baseboards, losing 5 pounds, organizing the pantry, and NATURALLY giving the guest room a gorgeous accent wall. While this may not be a healthy thought process, I had an idea for a guest room accent wall that I just could not shake!

I had a dream that consisted of a rich dark color, inset moulding and oodles of character. I was more than eager to take on the KILZ #AccentWallChallenege ! It’s through our great partner KILZ® Brand that I can show you how you can create your own accent wall and elevate any space!

Tools Suggested:

Utility Knife
Pry Bar/Flat Bar
Hammer
Tape Measure
Tablesaw / Circular Saw
18g or 16g nailer
1/4″ drill bit
Drill
Jigsaw
builders square
Miter Saw
Level

Supplies Used:

KILZ 3® Premium Primer
Magnolia Home by Joanna Gaines® Paint in “Before and After”
Paneling Adhesive
1 1/2″ finish nails.
1/8″ MDF Panels
1×6″ Primed Finger Boards
1×4″ Primed Finger Boards
PVC Base Cap Moulding
Wood Filler
Paintable Caulk
2 1/2″ Angled Paint Brush
6″ Foam Roller(s)
Paint Tray(s)

Clear the Room

Before we begin, let’s clear the room. In my experience plenty of workspace when installing board and batten is highly advisable!

Remove Baseboards

Before I can actually begin installing the accent wall, I need to remove pre-existing baseboards and moulding if applicable. In order to do this , I run a utility knife along the top ledge where the baseboard meets the wall. In doing so I am cutting the caulk line and this will make it much easier to remove the baseboards.

After the caulk line is cut, I use a pryer/flat bar to pull the baseboard away from the wall.

Map Out Wall

Before I can dive into the fun part, I need to map out my wall. Math is not my favorite, but you will be so grateful that you planned out your wall in advance. When mapping a wall take into consideration any outlets or light switches you do not wish to move. When planning my wall, I made sure that none of my “battens” (1×6″, 1×4″ boards) would not land on top of an outlet.

Cut Panels

After the planning phase is complete it is time to apply the boards (1/8″ MDF panels). In many cases you may choose to forgo this step. I have seen plenty of DIY bloggers attach their batten directly on top of drywall. I choose to take this extra step because of the texture of my drywall. My home has VERY HEAVY knock-down texture. My vision for this accent wall did not include a “HEAVY knock-down texture”.
When cutting panels I referenced my plans, and cut each panel so that the seams would be hidden behind my vertical 1×4″ boards.

Apply Panels

Before attaching the panels to the bare wall, I liberally apply paneling adhesive to the back of each panel before securing it to the wall using a 16g or 18g nailer.

When securing the panel to the wall I would advise only nailing along the edges. If you nail along the edges all the nail holes will be hidden by battens ( 1×4″ & 1×6″ boards). The adhesive will hold down the center of the MDF paneling.

This process will be repeated as many times as necessary to cover the entire space.

Accommodate Outlets

The process of installing paneling is fairly simple. The most complicated part of this step is accommodating outlets. Before you start breathing heavily into a paper bag, grab your tape measure, you are going to need it! Honestly, this is not hard at all! Simply take the measurements of where the outlet would land on your paneling, and then cut it out. Use a tape measure to transfer where the intended outlet will be. Then using a jigsaw cut a space for the outlet.

Install Moulding and Baseboards

Once all of the MDF boards are installed we are ready to add the battens (1×4″ & 1×6″ boards). To begin, measure the wall length (take measurements for both ceiling and floor measurements.) In a perfect world, where all the contractors build rooms square this would not be necessary. Alas we do not live in such a world, so take the time to measure both.

I opted to use 1×6″ boards as the baseboard and the top trim piece. Once both pieces are measured, marked and cut, install using 2″ finish nails.

Cut and Install Vertical Battens

It’s time to hide the MDF panel seams! Again take the time to measure each board individually. (Odds are that each opening has some slight discrepancies.)

As you install each vertical batten ensure that they are straight by enlisting the use of a level. Once they are correctly positioned (using your previously drafted plan) and level, shoot them in place using 2″ finish nails.

Install Horizontal Batten Boards

If desired add additional horizontal boards. Again, always measure each opening and use a level when installing.

Add Decorative Trim

Remember when I said I wanted to “oodles of character”? Well my DIY friends, this is what an “oodle” worth of character looks like: 40 additional pieces of trim. I decided to add base cap moulding to the interior of all of my battens.

The process for installing the interior trim is very similar to the previous steps. Measure, cut install. The only major difference in this step is that we will be cutting our trim pieces on a 45 degree angle. By doing so it will create beautiful mitered corners.

Caulk and Fill

We are getting so close to the fun part, just hang with me for one more final step before we bust out the paint brushes! Take a few minutes to run through and fill any nails holes of gaps with a wood filler. (Before painting, you will want to sand off the excess filler with a sanding block. The filler will need to be completely dry before attempting to sand. So while waiting for the filler to dry we will move on to the next step.

Almost there, we almost get to paint I promise! Last thing needed is a little bit of caulk. In order to achieve a gorgeous end product we need to add a small bead of caulk to the interior of the edge cap moulding. This will hide any unsightly gaps.

While the caulk is drying get ready for the most rewarding part of this project. Priming and painting!

Priming

Are you guys excited? I am excited! Before we start painting we are going to take one very important step to ensure our end product turns out beautiful and stays looking that way! While MDF board is a great cost effective product, it can be a little fickle. It has a very smooth and shiny surface, both of which are not ideal for painting… this is where a good primer will be your best friend. It is important that you prime in order to achieve good adhesion of your top coat!

While this is a simple fix, a good Primer like KILZ 3 Premium primer can also help with many different DIY woes. If you have been around for a while you know that KILZ saved me when renovating my camper. It adhered to my cabinets like a charm, covered water damage, mystery stains, and even got rid of some funky odors. So yes, I am a big advocate for priming!

I suggest using a 2 1/2″ angled brush to apply KILZ 3 Premium primer to cut in all edges and paint all detailing trim. Take extra care to thoroughly paint all PVC trim. PVC trim is another excellent cost effective product but needs some extra help from KILZ primer to ensure proper paint adhesion.

After all edges are cut in and molding painted, it is time to break out the big guns… it is time for a 6″ foam roller. While I am normally a huge advocate for spraying my paint and primer on I was absolutely amazed at how smooth this primer went on with a cheap sponge roller!

Now we wait… just kidding. KILZ 3 Premium primer is ready to paint in one hour! I cannot even begin to tell you how happy that makes this stir-crazy, impatient DIYer. By the time I had all my paint supplies gathered my primer was dry and ready to top coat!

Paint

Following the same steps for priming, I applied my topcoat. As I mentioned at the very beginning of this project I wanted something a little dark and moody. I didn’t want it to feel like a cave, but I wanted a moody feel. After scouring the internet for inspiration I found my muse. Magnolia Home by Joanna Gaines paint to the rescue!

Browse All Magnolia Home colors Here

I mean how can you go wrong when you combine KILZ quality with Joanna Gaines color selection!? I was torn between several colors but ultimately decided on the color “Before & After” from the Magnolia Home by Joanna Gaines paint line.

Just look at this color !? It takes this beautiful accent wall to an entirely new level! I will admit, this is my first time using this particular paint and I am SOLD! It went on buttery smooth. I honestly didn’t think it was possible to get this smooth of a finish unless you used a sprayer. The Magnolia Home paint went on perfectly and covered beautifully. I cannot wait to try more colors throughout my home!

This room is absolutely transformed and I give full credit to this accent wall! Go ahead, try and imagine this room without that wall. It’s amazing how just one wall can change the entire feel of a room.

Paint- Magnolia Home by Joanna Gaines paint in “Before & After”
Brass Bed- Amazon
Clay Bedding-Target
Bed Skirt- Amazon
Light Fixture-Amazon
Throw- HomeGoods
Night Stand- Target
Rug- Amazon
Curtains-HomeGoods
Seagrass Tray- Target

The post Moody Board and Batten Guest Room appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

How to: Convert a Drawer into Desk

coreydecker@gmail.com — Mon, 28 Sep 2020 20:15:07 +0000

I recently gave my home office a makeover. Scratch that. I recently converted my office into a streamlined home office/ homeschool room.

The biggest hurdle when designing my office was incorporating enough desks to accommodate my kiddos and myself. I really wanted a built-in unit but that dream seemed unattainable. Or was it ? I dreamed up a crazy idea, an idea so crazy it JUST MIGHT WORK?! Spoiler alert: It TOTALLY worked and I am going to show you how.

Tools Suggested	Materials Used
Circular Saw	1×4″ Common Board
Tape Measure	3/4″ Plywood (Size will vary by project size.)
Jigsaw	1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
Pocket Hole Jig	Full Extension Ball Bearing Drawer Glides
Pre-Drill Bit	Full extension hinge with 1/2″ overlap
Clamps

Remove Hardware

The first thing that was necessary when modifying the cabinet was removing the drawer and it’s accompanying hardware. This can be typically be accomplished using a phillips bit screwdriver/drill.

Modifying Cabinet Dimensions (opt.)

Now, if you are a little OCD and want to take this project one step further then read on. If you are perfectly happy with height and depth of your cabinets go ahead and skip to the next step.

Adjust Depth

First, determine the desired depth of your cabinet and then you measure and mark your cabinet. I set up a board that would serve as a guide to run my circular saw along. (Remember, do not place your guide on the line you need to cut, you need to consider the distance from the edge of your saw plate to the saw blade itself.)

Using the guide and the marked line cut the first side of your cabinet using a circular saw. (Always wear proper safety gear!) Repeat this step on both side of your cabinet.

Once both sides are cut, you can flip the cabinet upside down in preparation to cut the bottom. This is where it gets a little tricky. The sides of the base block the path of the circular saw, so I needed to get a little creative. I had to use a smaller circular saw, but a jigsaw or something similar would work well too.

Using one one of the above mentioned tools will require cutting a straight line by hand. I would highly recommend drawing a straight line to use as a guide. Even if the line is a little crooked, it will be fine, this will be completely hidden.

Add Supports

Once all sides of the cabinet are cut down supports are necessary. I used a 1×3 board cut to the exact interior dimension and then drilled pocket holes on both ends to secure them.

I added a support on the very top ledge of my cabinet and also one at the base. I did leave the back of the cabinet open. This is totally personal preference. You can add paneling to the back if you prefer, just take the added depth into account when you are creating countertops and installing to the wall etc.

Adjust Height

If you would also like to alter the height of your cabinet, that is an option. Again, not necessary, but an option. If you opt to do this, just use the same method used to cut the sides of the cabinet. When I cut mine down I only removed 1.5″. I still wanted there to be a toe kick area, but the 1.5″ made a huge difference when it can to the height of the pull-out desk drawers for my kids.

Build Drawer Box

In order to create a pull out desk, I needed to create a sturdy drawer. Never made a drawer ? No worries, it is simple!

Finding Drawer Box Dimensions

How to find the dimensions for your drawer:

Drawer Base Width= Opening drawer dimensions – 1″(drawer glides) – 1 1/2″ (1×4″ box supports)
Drawer Base Depth = Cabinet Depth Dimension – 1″( back clearance) – 3/4″ (back 1×4″ box support)- 1 3/4″(front hinge clearance)
Side Box Supports= “Drawer Base Depth” dimension + 3/4″ (back 1×4 box support)
Back Box Support = “Drawer Base Width” dimension

After all the necessary boards are cut, it’s time to assemble. Using a pocket hole jig drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the base. (Excluding the front ledge.) Also drill pocket holes on both ends of the “back box support” board as well.

Using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws secure the “back box support” to the back of the base. Follow-up by securing the “side box supports” to both sides. Again securing with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Look at that! You made a box, that wasn’t so hard now was it ? Next thing we need to do is make it mobile! Let’s add some drawer glides.

Install Drawer Front

First mark the desired location for the hinge, taking into consideration the drawer glides that will be installed. Once marked, pre-drill in the allocated spots, then use the screws that came with the hinges to install the first side of the hinge. Repeat t his process for both hinges that will be attached the cabinet base. (See below image as a reference.)

After the hinges are secured to the cabinet base I needed to attach the to my drawer front.

Something to consider: Keep in mind that the drawer will need to clear the doors that sit directly below it. Test the spacing before installing the drawer face.

When attaching the drawer front I found it easiest to clamp the drawer face directly to the front of the cabinet and then mark, pre-drill, and then fasten with a screw. It ensured that I would have perfect placement! Worked like a charm.

Install Glides

Mark Glide Placement

Before beginning the install process, place your drawer box in the cabinet opening and mark out a logical location fort eh glides to be installed. ( If the drawer glides are installed too high or too low there is a chance your box will not fit into the opening and will be stopped by the cabinet frame.)

Something to consider: When selecting your glides take into account the amount of weight they can hold and their length. As you saw earlier I shortened my cabinet and there fore shortened my drawer. Select a drawer glide based on the depth of your drawer box. ( Mine is an 18″ deep drawer box, so I selected an 18″ drawer glide.

Attach Glide to box

When installing drawer glides. I begin by removing the drawer glide rail and secure it to the box first. This is a fairly simple process. Place the front of the glide so that is flush with the box. Then using a spacer screw with glide rail in place using the screws provided with your glides. (See below image for clarification.)

Install Glide to Cabinet

Alright half-way through the tricky part. See that’s not so bad ? Let’s wrap this puppy up. All we need to do now is install the second half of the glide. The larger piece of the glide needs to be secured to the cabinet base.

After a few learning experiences I finally have drawer glide install down to a science and this is my favorite way to install a drawer box.

1.) Cut and Add Spacers- The spacers will need to be tall enough that your drawer box will not hit the hinges when the drawer is pulled out on the drawer glides, but also short enough that the drawer box doesn’t hit the top of the opening. I cut mine approximately 1″ thick and 20 long.

Place the guides under both sides of the drawer box.

2.) After the spacers are resting on the front drawer support (under the drawer box) clamp or secure the spacer to the cabinet so that the spacer (and thereby) the box are sitting perfectly level. Repeat this process for both spacers on either side of the drawer.

3.) After the spacer is securely attached it is time to install the drawer glide. ( As of right now the box is resting on top of the spacers with the glides already attached to the box.) Before we can install the glide we need to make sure the front hinged drawer has enough space to close. (The hinges I used required 1 1/4″ from the front ledge in order to close properly.)

Once certain of location mark where the back of your glide should be. Use this same measurement and mark it on the other side as well. Once marked, slowly slide the box forward so that the glide is extending. As the box and glide extend it should holes allocated for screws.

4.) When the holes are visible it is time to start screwing the glide to the cabinet interior. (Make sure the back of your glide is still at your pre-marked measurement. Once you have double checked go ahead and put in screws in the available hole cut outs. Repeat this same process on both sides of the box.

5.) Hard part is over! Gently push the drawer forward again. ( It is still resting on the spacers, but the glides should not be shifting because of the first set of screws that are installed.) As you push the drawer forward it will expose more hole cut outs, proceed to screw in the provided screws.

6.) Repeat step (5) until the glides are completely extended. (The box should be completely pulled out at this point.)

7.) After all the screws are in, unclamp the spacers and pull out from under the drawer.

8.) You did it! It should be a perfectly level install.

You did, pat yourself on the back. You converted a drawer into a desk! If you are interested in how I created the rest of my built in unit or the countertops make sure you check out these posts.

The post How to: Convert a Drawer into Desk appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Faux Stone Wall

coreydecker@gmail.com — Tue, 11 Aug 2020 19:54:59 +0000

*This post is sponsored by the great folks over at DAP and it does contain affiliate links.

Is this not the most beautiful accent wall you have ever seen ? Would you believe that it is made out of faux stone panels and I knocked it out in one day!?

Tools Suggested	Materials Used
Tape Measure	Faux Stone Panels
Utility Knife	DAP ALEX caulk or DAP DYNAGRIP
Straight Edge	Alex Plus Spackling
Caulk Gun	Terry Wash Cloth
Putty Knife
Staple Gun (Optional)
Grout Bag

I am not exaggerating when I say that anyone can do this! This is a very entry level DIY that looks so realistic it is insane. Another bonus? It requires very few tools and the panels are very easy to work with!

Prepping Panels

I think the trickiest part putting up the first row. I wanted the rock ledge to meet fleshly with my baseboards. The edge of these panels follows the outline of the stones. When cutting the straight edge make sure you cut all of your first row with the same dimension. They are designed to be butted up to each other and create a seamless look.

The cutting process is very simply. I map out my dimensions and used a sharpie to draw them onto the panel. Using a straight edge and a utility knife knife I cut out the desired dimensions. It usually only took me one pass with my utility blade, but if you encounter a stubborn segment, simply bend and snap along the scored line.

Adhering Panels

When applying the tiles, you are going to want to cut and then apply the panels one at a time. When doing this project I found that using DAP caulk work famously. Another option would be using a product like DAP DYNAGRIP. I have loved using this product for heavy duty projects like this SHIPLAP project. DYNAGRIP has a nearly instant hold that is adjustable.

These panels are very lightweight so I opted for a caulk that would be a strong hold but still feasibly removable should I ever opt to remove the stone.

Using a caulk gun apply DAP caulk to the back of the panels. I used the raised grout lines as a guide for applying the caulk. By doing this it ensured even adhesion without wasting caulk.

Once a the ALEX Caulk or DYNAGRIP adhesive is applied the panel can be applied to the wall. The panel will very easily stay put! If you are using DYNAGRIP this thing won’t be going anywhere and will be adjustable but will take some pressure to move it. Using caulk it will stay put but can easily be moved around until the caulk begins to set.

Due to the nature of this project I decided to tack the panel in place in one or two places on the panel. While the caulk or DYNAGRIP will easily hold the panels on the wall, I didn’t want them to shift whatsoever when I was butting the next panel up to the joint.

Like I said, work with one panel at a time. Cut to the desired locations, apply caulk or DYNAGRIP, tack in place, then repeat with the next panel.

Applying “Grout” (Spackle)

Once the panels are installed it is time to give these faux stones some character! If you recall forever ago, I created a I German smear brick wall using faux brick panels. It has held up amazingly and is a beautiful feature in our home. When I found these panels I knew exactly what to do with them, I would take a note out of my old playbook and use ALEX PLUS Spackle to achieve a faux over-grouted look.

Something to consider, spackle in and of itself is not intended to be used as a grout. I am aware. However,I have never actually seen anyone ever try to over-grout plastic wall panels . I am in unchartered territory. However, this is what I DO KNOW. I have used DAP ALEX PLUS spackle for many projects and have been amazed with it.

It has excellent adhesion, does not sink or shrink, and is extremely durable. THIS IS EXACTLY the attributes I needed for this project. I needed a product that would adhere to the surface of the panel and would not shrink as it dried. (In this case, if the product were to shrink it would pull itself away from the panel and may not stick the way I needed it to.) It also is extremely durable. These panels are made of a flimsy plastic. If you press on them, they do give a little. I needed a product that would be durable and not crack and chip if the panel was flexed.

While spackle is not specifically made for this application, it was a no brainer that I trusted ALEX PLUS to be my absolute best bet… and I was right! After quite a few flex, and scratch tests this product is holding up like a charm.

When I first started this project I was totally winging it, by the 10th panel I had my technique down to a science. The easiest way to apply the spackle was to fill a grout bag with ALEX PLUS spacke. I suggest working in sections no bigger than 2’x2′. Pipe a liberal amount of the “grout” into the joint lines between the stones.

Once a section of the stone had the spackle piped into the joints, I troweled over the spackle using a small putty knife. I used the putty knife to push the spackle completely into he joints while also spreading the excess spackle over the surrounding stones. Part of the appeal of an over-grouted stone is that is fairly low contrast and the “grout” unifies to the stones and creates a softer feel. I tried to mimic this look using the spackle.

After using a putty knife to spread out the spackle, I wanted to create some depth to the crevices.. BY definition sparkle is suppose to fill holes and create a smooth surface, so I needed to run my finger along the joints in order to create a very gentle curve to the grout line.

After the cracks are smoothed out, we are ready for the finishing touch! Using a damp terry cloth rag, I gently dabbed along the spackle to create a uniform texture. I also dabbed some of the excess spackle onto the surrounding stone. It gave it a very natural look that helped blend the contrast between the different color stones.

Just look at that finish! Can you believe that this was just a flimsy plastic panel? With just a little bit of elbow grease and creativity they now look like an old-world/tuscan villa!? However you want to catergorize this look, I just know that it is beautiful and it gave our small powder room the “wow factor”! Mission complete.

Thanks so much for following along, and a big shout out to sponsors like DAP that allow me to keep creating content so that I can share it with great folks like you!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Faux Stone Wall appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

24 hr. Bathroom Makeover

coreydecker@gmail.com — Sat, 25 Jan 2020 14:57:45 +0000

Cabinet Update

I attacked this project the same way I did my previous bathroom. I removed the cabinet doors and prepped the cabinet for paint. If you would like more information regarding painting cabinets, you can check out my post here.

I used the same color scheme that I did in the guest bathroom as well. I literally moved from one bathroom to the next and it made the process go by so quickly! I had everything out, and honestly if you are considering giving two bathrooms a makeover I would knock them both out at once!

Sink Replacement

When it comes to “bang for your buck” in a room makeover, paint is hands down your best option. It just is. It is moderately priced and can change the entire look of a room. Bathrooms have a bad rep for being an $$$ makeover, but I think there is a happy medium. I was determined to work with the existing countertops, tile, showers and toilets. HOWEVER, I didn’t invest in a new sink. A sink and new faucet is a simple change that can completely update the entire look of a bathroom.

Like I said I did not want to replace the existing countertops, so it was simply an issue of finding a sink that would cover the hole from the builder grade drop in sinks.

I am still learning the ropes when it comes to plumbing and I did enlist the help of my husband to help walk me through the process. I am not an authority on the field, but I will say there are plenty of pro’s out there with detailed tutorials.

Sink affiliate link:

Basin Porcelain Sink– Amazon
Brass Single Hole Faucet- Amazon (Not exact but close.)

One thing I do know well, and that is caulk and silicone. In order to make this bathroom ready, we do need to water-proof the seam around the perimeter where the sink meets the countertop.

When sealing an area that will be subject to water I would highly recommend a silicone based sealer as opposed to a latex. Think of it like oil vs. latex paint. Oil is a little more heavy duty, and it is also a little messier to clean up.

So when using silicone I like to use a the DAP Pro-Caulk tool kit. It came with all the tools necessary t o get the job done, with out the sticky fingers

If you are new to caulking here is a trick that will help you in the process. You can use this Frogtape trick. You simply use painters tape the same way you would if paining a wall, you use tape to create a straight edge that will also protect the rest of the surface from the paint/silicone/caulk. It gives you some leniency in your application and creates a perfect line!

After the caulk/silicone is applied use your preferred corner tool in the Caulking Tool Kit to achieve the perfect finish. Simply slide the corner along the applied bead of caulk to create a perfect uniform seam. Immediately after smoothing out the silicone remove the painters tape. Failing to do so can result in the silicone curing to the tape.

Upgrade Towel Bars

More than anything this bathroom makeover was just a series of covering up or repairing holes! I already tackled the sink hole, now onto the partial hole created from little boys that shall not be named using the towel rack as a pull-up bar. Fortunately, this was an easy fix.

Just a few dollops of DYNAGRIP and we were back in business.

I just braced it up with some duct tape while it cured.

Paint

While all my adhesives were curing I finished up painting all the walls. For the walls I used the same color as the recently renovated guest bathroom.

This was actually a makeover that took me less than 24 hours to complete. Mind blowing right? Like I said, most of it was just covering holes and paint. In order to get everything painted that quickly I enlisted my Fuji-Spray Semi-Pro sprayer, and when painting the walls. FROGTAPE! A good painters tape can cut your labor time considerably, and for some one that has orange peel knock-down walls, having a straight line is no small feat!

Custom Towel Rack

Everything was coming along quickly, and I was actually in a time crunch… but I kept getting distracted by the other builder grade towel bar. The one in the shower didn’t bother me much. It was a sensible option in the shower and would rarely be seen.

However, the one at eye-level was bugging me… so what did I do? I created two new holes to cover!

Remember how I said I was trying to complete this project in less than 24 hours?! Well you might think I am crazy for trying to create a custom towel rack as opposed to simply installing new hooks, but in reality this was a very quick fix opposed to patching the drywall and then adding hooks.

So I ran to the shop and whipped together a towel bar that would add character, and cover the holes. Win-Win!

I used a 1/2″ x 6″ pine board, and a 1/2″ x 1 1/4″ board to create the base for my towel rack. ( I personally wanted the profile to be low, so I ripped the 1 1/2″ board in half, so that it would only be 1/2″x 3/4″.)

I cut the 1/2″ board to the dimensions needed to cover my holes. I then used DAP RapidFuse to glue the (smaller) ripped down board to both of the long edges of the board.

When adding my border pieces I intentionally made them too long. I did this so that I could simply shave off the end using a miter saw. By doing this it eliminated the need for precise measurements.

See perfectly flush!

Lastly, I needed to add the end cap. You can measure the end and transfer the dimensions OR you can hold the trim piece in place, mark and then cut before gluing in place. I timed it, and this whole process took less than 5 minutes!

I slapped on some Early American stain by Minwax and set it in front of a fan to dry so that I could add poly, and hooks.

I used 2 1/2″ screws to secure the new towel rack to the wall. Mark the locations of your studs and drive a screw through the new plate and into the stud behind it. (When at all possible I try to hide the placement of the screw behind the hooks. I just install the hooks after I install the base plate.)

Finishing Touches

After everything was painted and holes covered it was down to the finishing touches. If you are familiar with my guest bathroom makeover you know I went back and forth in regards to light fixture multiple times. Well, I couldn’t use both of the lights in the other bathroom so I decided to use the leftover in the boys bathroom.

Two Tone Light Fixture– The Home Depot

I also opted for the same mirrors used in the guest bathroom makeover as well.

Threshold French Country Mirror– Target

I just added a few last touches including an extra long shower curtain to give the room some height, added a rug runner to tie my colors together, and a “fishing basket” filled with olives to complete the space!

So without further ado. The kids 24 hour bathroom makeover!

Sources

Two Tone Light Fixture– The Home Depot
Threshold French Country Mirror– Target
Bar Drawer Pull- Home Depot
Vintage Olive Rug Runner– Amazon
Basin Porcelain Sink– Amazon
Extra Long Shower Curtain– Amazon
Brass Single-Hole Faucet- Amazon (Not exact but close.)

Tools

Fuji Spray Semi-Pro 2 – Amazon
DAP Caulk Pro Kit- Amazon

The post 24 hr. Bathroom Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

One Week Bathroom Makeover

coreydecker@gmail.com — Tue, 07 Jan 2020 20:55:06 +0000

This post is sponsored by The Home Depot and does contain affiliate links*

We moved into our current home nearly 4 years ago. Within the first four weeks I re-painted about 85% of our home. It was then that I lost motivation and my poor bathrooms were abandoned to remain in their original band-aid colored glory….

The loss of motivation was two-fold. First due to being sick and tired of painting. The second? I honestly had zero inspiration… however that all changed and I found my spark! I decided to give my bathroom a one week makeover!

After a lot of soul searching I decided to try something bold. I wanted to paint my cabinets GREEN! Now, I typically stay in the safe, comfortable realm of neutrals, but I really had a hankering to go bold! I figured if there was ever a good place to expand my palette, the guest bathroom would be it.

When choosing a paint color, I typically go through a few weeks of “paint selection induced anxiety” (It’s a real thing look it up. I go through AT LEAST a dozen different paint samples and countless color swatches. I am fairly certain the paint specialist at The Home Depot knows me by name. BUT NOT THIS TIME! That’s right, no breathing into a bag as I roll on my first coat of paint. This time I tried a new system.

The Home Depot has partnered with Pinterest to create a new product that aids in the paint selection process.

They have created a peel and stick paint sample that you can easily stick to your walls or cabinets, and effortlessly remove! When I say “paint samples” they actually are coated with 2 coats of the given paint in an eggshell sheen. These aren’t just colored stickers, they are 12″x 12″ samples of the actual PAINT. Gone are the days of tiny paint swatches, or messy paint samples. The future of paint sampling has arrived!

If that was’t enough, this kit pays for itself. Each kit contains a coupon for 15% off your total purchase of interior paint at The Home Depot!

They currently have 8 different color kits that contain 6 carefully curated selections that will assist you in the typically nerve-racking selection process. They even break down the sometimes confusing family of whites, cool neutrals and warm neutrals!

Within a half hour or receiving my paint kit in the mail, I was able to apply the samples, make a selection and head off to The Home Depot with confidence in my selections for both my walls and my cabinets! Once I had a tentative game plan, I hit the ground running.

At this point in time I did not want to replace the countertops or the tile. This was going to be more of a surface level cosmetic makeover. The only structural change was a small built in.

I knew I wanted the cabinets to be green, but as you can see the original design was broken up. The vanity included a sitting area, and I didn’t feel it was necessary for a guest bathroom. Instead of leaving the area open, I created a built-in that would aesthetically create a heavier/darker feel to the cabinet space.

Once the built-in was in place I was ready to prep everything for paint! (If you are interested in a detailed plan of execution concerning painting cabinets I have a full tutorial here.)

As part of this step I removed the vanity mirror and the light fixtures. I was planning on replacing these items so it made sense to remove the obstacles before painting.

In this case I opted to use my paint sprayer. There were three reasons for this. First, I was already repainting the entire room so I would not need to drape everything. Second, I was on a self-inflicted time crunch and this gets the job done in MINUTES. Third, the finish is flawless!

Cabinet Paint Color: Russian Olive by Behr

I use this sprayer: Fuji Spray Semi-Pro 2 (Worth every penny!)

While I was waiting on paint to dry I quickly started edging the room. With the use of Frogtape I was able to trim out the entire room before the cabinets were ready for their final coat.

Wall Color: Seagrass by Behr

While I was waiting on my final cabinet coat to dry I painted the rest of the walls. Phew. I don’t know about you, but I am all about maximizing my down time. I knew if I really put my mind to it, I could knock it out in one day! (Totally did.)

If this picture isn’t a testimony of the difference one day and two gallons of paint can do, then I don’t know what is!

The bathroom was already looking about 127% better, but I was not about to stop there.

As I stated before, this was not a gut job remodel. I was working with the existing countertop and tile. However, the sinks were just not jiving with my plans. Alas, after a little bit of brainstorming, I realized I didn’t necessarily need a new counter in order to have a beautiful sink. I just needed to find a basin sink that would cover the existing hole. Problem solved!

With a fresh paint job, and new sinks this bathroom was nearly unrecognizable, but we still aren’t done yet! Now for the fun part, the icing on the cake, the hardware and fixtures!

After browsing Home Depot online I found some very tempting options!

I loved the vintage brass feel faucet, but there is just something so eye catching about this matte black faucet!

After staring at my options for nearly two days, and polling every platform of social media, and questioning all my acquaintances I FINALLY made the final decisions, and I LOVE the outcome. So without further ado. The ONE week bathroom makeover.

There you have it folks, a one-week bathroom makeover! I have learned that you don’t need to break the bank in order to create a beautiful space. Sometimes working with what you have can be a problem that just needs to be solved with some creative thinking. (Cue triumphant music.) This bathroom was a challenge, and I loved every step of it. With encouragement in the form of a dark green paint sample, I was able to step outside of my comfort zone and try new things and I am so glad I did!

Take Luck,
Corey

Paint Colors-

Wall Color: SeaGrass by Behr
Cabinet Color: Russian Olive by Behr

Home Depot and Pinterest Paint Kit Color Options:-

Source Links:

Brass Delta Faucet- The Home Depot
Two Tone Light Fixture– The Home Depot
Matte Black Faucet– The Home Depot
Solid Black Fixture– The Home Depot
Bar Drawer Pull- The Home Depot
Threshold French Country Mirror- Target
Vintage Style Rug Runner
Sink Countertop Basin-The Home Depot

The post One Week Bathroom Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

BEFORE New Carpet/ Bonus Room Makeover

coreydecker@gmail.com — Tue, 30 Jul 2019 13:07:41 +0000

Trick: Capitalize the use of OLD CARPET

Remember how I compared new carpeting to “giving a mouse a cookie”? Well if you are unfamiliar with this popular children’s book it explains the series of events that are triggered by a small act… a domino effect. In this case I reasoned, “If I am finally replacing the carpet, then I can finally replace the old sectional.” (Its due to retire, but I have put it off because I didn’t want to pick a new sofa based on the current carpet color.) This thought led to…” Heck, if I’m swapping the couches, I should probably consider putting up some wall decor….Dang, if I going to give the whole room a face-lift, I should probably FINALLY paint the trim upstairs white too.” (All the trim work through the rest of the house was painted white years ago…)

At this point I would like to remind you of my mantra/tagline. Sawdust 2 Stitches “Where we can’t leave well enough alone”. It’s true. Might not be healthy, but true nonetheless.

So let me show you the tip I would suggest using if you are considering new carpet! Go big and give the whole room the refresh you have been putting off.

Think about it, you are replacing the carpet, and removing a majority of the furniture and decor items from the space in preparation for the install. Why not take advantage of that and PAINT!

Here are my baseboards. I know it is hard to tell in the images, but they are actually an off-white. I want them brilliant white. Plus when I originally painted the walls, I did not use much care, because I was planning on painting the baseboards regardless.

Next I added my Frogtape, so that I could create that nice crisp professional paint line. Next I prepped my paint sprayer. You can also do this with a paint brush, but with a sprayer this project can be done in MINUTES!
That’s pretty much the extent of the prep work. All I did was hold up a piece of paneling that would shield the wall from paint. Then I sprayed! Without needing to going over the top draping furniture, and cover flooring it took what would have been a several day job into an afternoon project!

Okay, so crossing off tedious paint jobs before new carpet is definitely a trick I would suggest you take advantage of. Heck if you have been considering painting in general (walls or ceiling) NOW is the time. Do it when you don’t have to worry about the prep work. I honestly believe projects are 75% prep work, especially in regards to painting.

Can I tell you how great it felt to have the room looking fresh as they installed the carpet ?!

It’s amazing how quickly a room can transform. Using the aforementioned painting hack, and The Home Depot install service you can have an entirely new space in less than 24 hours. Unbelievable!

Okay, are you ready to see my beautiful blank slate !?

In a little under 24 hours a room went from a place I tried to avoid, to an oasis that I didn’t want to leave! I gave myself an hour to lie on the fresh carpet… but I had everything to update this room waiting to be brought in! Want to see what I did with this space!? Head over to The Home Depot blog to see the entire reveal!

In the meantime want to see the rest of the upstairs with the new carpet!? Yeah you do!

I think one of the spaces I was most excited for the new carpet was the stairs. Silly I know, but the stairs are the first thing when you walk in my home. The carpet on the stairs was in horrible condition and clashed with all the colors on the lower level. Not anymore!

Previously the guest room had a huge rug to try and hide the stained carpet. With the new carpet I 86’d the rug and let the room feel fresh and open.

The boys room, I figured would take a little more abuse so I just dealt with the old carpet. However this new carpet. completed changed the feels of their room!

Plus knowing that I have the LifeProof guarantee I have zero concerns! This carpet is meant to be lived on and they are willing to back it up with a 25 year guarantee.

If you want to hear more about why I chose this specific carpet make sure you get all the details here.

Thanks fro following along, and “Take Luck”.

Corey

The post BEFORE New Carpet/ Bonus Room Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Trofast Ikea Bin Base Unit

coreydecker@gmail.com — Thu, 25 Jul 2019 00:08:46 +0000

*This post is sponsored by DAP and does contain affiliate links.

When designing my Grandma’s florist studio, I was trying to make the space as economical and as versatile as possible. I wasn’t entirely certain how much space she would need, and what drawer sizes would be optimal. So, I tried to plan for ANY scenario. After a lot of brainstorming I designed this IKEA Trofast Bin Base Unit. By utilizing bins it would allow her to swap out and rearrange the bucket sizes, AND I it would also accomodate shelves that she could use if she needed/preferred.

To bring this build to life, I teamed up with the great folks at DAP!

This build is an inexpensive and quick alternative to building a traditional dresser, not to mention the versatility that is offers is unparalleled for the price. (Can I also add, that this may be the classiest use of plastic bins I have ever seen!)
I ultimately ended up building two of these units and fastened them together to make a MEGA Trofast IKEA base unit.

Complete Build Plans Here

1.) Prep boards

Cut all boards to the dimensions designated in cut list. For the body of this unit I used 3/4″ Purebond Birch Plywood. (It really is a beautiful board and would look beautiful stained as well.)

2.) Band Edging

This is an optional step. I wanted a nice finished edge on my unit so I decided to band the front exposed edge of all of my vertical boards. (It is much easier to do before the unit is assembled.)

3.) Rip Down Slides

This is also an optional step. You can ABSOLUTELY use 1″x2″. boards as is. I just wanted something a little more streamlined, so I ripped down my slides/supports to 1″ as opposed to 1 1/2″ boards. It is also more cost efficient to do them 1″ wide. I was able to rip down a 1″x4″ board into 1″ segments and create 3 boards from the single 1″x4″ board. (Illustrated below)

4.)Install Slide/Supports

When installing the supports I always like to use a spacer. A spacer is a board that is cut to the proper dimension (space in-between boards) and you use it to space out your supports. ( Get it? The “Spacer” creates the same uniform space repeatedly.)

To properly install them I always use a liberal amount of DAP Wood Glue. This would be strong enough to support the IKEA bins alone, but it would need to be clamped while it cured. I am not a patient person and I prefer to tack it in place with a brad nailer to “clamp it”.

Once the slides are installed I use DAP Plastic Wood to fill any nail holes left from the brad nailer. I give it quick once over with my sander and these babies are ready to be assembled!

5.) Assemble Base

Click here for full build plans.

6.) Counter Top

I tried some thing a little different this time in regards to the countertop. In the past I have used 3/4″ plywood and then used 1″x2″ boards to beef up the edges. Well I tried something a little different this time and I LOVE it.

Instead of using a board, I found some 1 1/2″ birch edge banding online. All I needed to do was to add a 3/4″ lip to the underside of my counter top. (Make sure you cut your countertop so that you have an extra 1 1/4″ on all edges you wish to use this application.)

For the 3/4″ lip I referenced earlier, I just ripped down a piece of plywood 3/4″ wide. I then cut it to fit the outer edges of my counter top board.

I then glued down the lip to bottom of the outer edge.

Then I ironed on the edging to the now 1 1/2″ thick lip. It creates a seamless edge that makes the 3/4″ plywood appear to be a slab countertop!

Once the countertop and the base unit were assembled all it needed was little bit of paint and stain.

For the base units I used Sherwin Williams “CityScape” and for the counter tops I used “Early American” by Minwax.

I used my FujiSpray Semi-Pro to spray all the units for this install, and I LOVE it!

Okay, here they are in all their glory! This unit was designed to go in a larger florist studio, so I actually built 2 of these units and made a longer countertop to make it appear to be one large unit.

Full Build Plans Available Here.

I’d like to think that it worked beautifully!

Want to see more of this space? Check out the full reveal here!

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