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Blog

Historic Vintage Style Room

August 30, 2018

For the past few years I have attended “Haven” a conference that is geared towards DIY and interior design bloggers.  This past year I was presented with an awesome opportunity.  I was able to team up with the great folks at The Home Depot and help design part of their booth that would be displayed at the conference.  I would be working with Mandi from Vintage Revivals.  She was asked to design the “patio” section, and I was designated the “Living Area”.   They  gave me the space, and dimensions , and a small tidbit of direction.  The conference was being held in Charleston, South Carolina and it was a suggestion that it have a “Charlestonian” vibe. Well I LOVED that idea and I ran with it.

The only peramenters  I was given was that I needed to find all the necessary furnishing on www.homedpot.com.  Let me tell you,  it was not a quick search.  They have  thousands of options when it come furnishings and home decor!  After sorting and searching I finally  came up with the perfect combination for a “Charlestonian”  feel.   Let me show you what I came up with!

  • This post is NOT  sponsored by The Home Depot, I just loved the experience and wanted to share my finds. It does contain affiliate links.

 

I wanted it to have a historic yet trendy vibe.  I had  never been to Charleston but  in my head that is what it was.  Thank goodness, after my visit  I still believe that to be true.  I am telling you , it is now one of my all-time favorite cities!   I digress.  I choose pieces that I thought a old feel, with a trendy twist.
Starting with the rug.  Vintage style rugs are coming back  and making their mark!  I wanted to embrace that, and also incorporate some bold colors!  Charleston is known for it’s color and I didn’t want my fear of color to hinder it’s overall feel.  I am so glad I got over my hesitation,  because seriously this Monaco Rug is EVERYTHING, and a great price to boot!

 

Next order of business was a sofa that would fit the theme.  It is a pretty widely accepted statement that the Linen Tufted Couch  have made their comeback.  That are a very traditional style, but when paired correctly can have a trendy eclectic feel.   I also needed a coffee table that I felt looked “as though it had a story to tell”.  (Any other F.R.I.E.N.D.S fans out there?)  I had a hard time narrowing it down, but finally  decided on this beauty, “The Home Sullivan Coffee Table“.

Last large-r ticket item was a accent chair to round out the seating area.  I knew I wanted a  blue accent chair.  So I went to www.homedepot.com and entered “Blue accent chair”  I kid you not they had 164 different options!?  These are the ones I ultimately decided on the “Toddman High Back Dark Accent Chair“.  I loved a handful of other ones, but I wasn’t working with a HUGE space so I needed to take room dimensions into consideration.

For the wall decor I took a little bit of a different approach.  While there was a HUGE selection of artwork available,  I wanted to try  something unique.  I opted for a wall of  “Cordelia Wall Sconces”.  (Which I ended up getting some for myself!  Check them out here.)

Anyone else out there have a black thumb?  I love adding pops of natural colors, but committing to feed another living thing is a little outside of my comfort zone.   Because of my fear of commitment I often opt for faux plants, and this is a GREAT one  for a great price! Paradise Palm Silk Tree . One of the last things it needed was some fun lighting. I found this fun arch lamp  that is perfect for cuddling up and reading  in the evenings.  It has a nice traditional feel but the matte black give it a little bit of an edgy feel . Kenroy Lamp I picked out all  of my pieces online, and then the great team from Home Depot ordered everything straight to the venue.  I am not going to lie I was a nervous wreck that I would very publicly fail in front of all my friends and colleagues,  but to my relief it came together perfectly!  Everything I  selected was exactly as it appeared online.  There were zero surprises and overall I will call it a complete success!  

*Not sponsored I just really enjoyed the experience.

DIY Sconce Into A Lamp Using Philips Hue Dimmer Kit

July 31, 2018

This post is sponsored by The Home Depot.

Do you ever have a great idea.  An idea that will simplify your life,  but it requires a little bit of work to get there?  I feel like this is a fairly normal feeling. (However, I normally  compound that complication/work  factor by x100.) Recently  my inspiration was the new Philips Hue Dimmer Light Kit.  After playing around with them,  I had a “light bulb moment” and knew exactly  how I could best utilize them.

You see, I have these awesome “Industrial Style Sconces“  that I found on  www.homedepot.com.   They are awesome, but I didn’t have any places in my home that  was hardwired for sconces. What’s a girl to do?  (This is one of those moments, where I complicate the process a little, but the end result is worth it.) Well today I am teaming up  with The Home Depot and Philips Hue Lighting to show you just how you can fix this little problem.   Phillips Hue has some seriously innovative products, and today I am going to be showcasing one of their most affordable products , I am going to be utilizing one of their smart lights that  simplify my life!  So  read along as I show you how to convert a sconce into a plug-in lamp and also share the  greatest  hack for lamp lighting.

Tools Suggested: 

  • Wire stripper/Cutter
  • Screw Driver (optional)
  • Drill

Supplies Used:

  • Philips Hue Dimmer Kit 
  • Hue White A19 LED 60W Equivalent Dimmable Smart Wireless Bulb

  • Cordelia Lighting Interior Sconces 
  • Extension Cords (x1 per light fixture. Make sure they are long enough to reach intended outlet.)

 Alright,  let’s  get this lighting party started!  Begin by cutting the female end off of  a small extension cord using wire cutters. Then  pull on both of the wires ( the cord consists of two wires that are connected together by the plastic casing).  Once the two wires are separated  strip the last 1/2″ of the wire casing using wire strippers.  Next wee need to identify which wire is which.  In most cases one wire is black and the other white.  However sometimes  when a wire is exposed (like with a hanging chandelier, or an extension cord)  the wire will be one solid color.  HOWEVER, normally  one of the wires  has a smooth casing and the other has a ribbed texture.  For this project I was using a wall sconce that can be purchased at The Home Depot. Because it was meant to be a wall sconce there is no place for a cord to run. So I needed to fix that little problem.  It was a quick fix,   using a drill bit I drilled a small hole in the bottom of my lamp.   It does not need to be large,  just big enough to run your decapitated extension cord through. Once the hole is drilled, feed your  wire through it.   Here is the part that I think makes people’s heart race.  There is no need to breath into a paper bag people!  You go this!  Lamps are very simple.  They have two wires and that is it!  Like we discussed earlier,   a lot of the times if you are  hard wiring a light fixture all the cords will be black and white and you just match colors.  However in this example,  we do not have the color coded option.  Instead  you are going to wire it,  ribbed to white, and smooth to black.  I just find it easier to remember “Ribbed White”.  the rest falls into place.    You simple twist the ends of  your white and ribbed wires together and then add a wing nut. (These will   more than likely come in your  sconce light packaging.)  The wing nut is threaded on the inside.  You just twist it in place.  If it is installed properly,  you should be able to tug on the wingnut and it will not come loose. If it is loose,  just try again.

Repeat this same process with the  black wire and the smooth wire. 

Then  just follow the instructions that came with your wall sconce.  (Ignoring the wiring steps obviously.)  They only difference will be that you are probably attaching the bracket to a plain wall, and not over a light junction box.  All sconce kits will vary in their application process,  just follow the mounting directions  that came with your kit. Alright, that wasn’t so bad now was it ?  Now is the easy part!

One of the trickier parts of  a sconce turned lamp, is easily accessing the power.   Because it is now a lamp,  you will need to plug it/un-plug it every time you use your new light. What’s a girl to do!?   Well I have a simple,  relatively cheap, and bonus cool points way to do this!  Phillips Hue recently released  the Philips Hue Wireless Dimmer Kit.  It contains everything you need to get started!  For this project I needed  just one kit and because I wanted one for both nightstand I purchased an additional light bulb for the second sconce/light.

  The package comes with a “switch” and a bulb.    The switch actually  can sit in a magnetic holster so it can be mounted to the wall,  or you can take it wherever is convenient for you.  The installation for this light is ridiculously easy!  So much so that I thought I was missing something!   The mounting plate  can come apart for options   when mounting.  It comes apart easily  so that you can access screw holes should you decided to mount it via screws.  But for this tutorial I want to show you how user friendly  this is! If you decide to forgo using screws, it comes with some STRONG double stick tape on the backside. All you need to do is remove the adhesive barrier strip.  Then press in place… ANYWHERE!   I am telling you, it is that easy!  You don’t have to wire a single thing!  Just press-n-go!  (Again,  if you wanted to attach using screws,  you can do that easily anywhere as well. Once you have the plate positioned where you want it,  just attached your face plate/cover to the installed base. After the plate is in place,  remove the  clear battery strip and  you can place the remote in the wall mounted cradle.  In this case I attached it in a tucked away post on my headboard because  these will be powering both  mine, and my husbands nightstand lamps.   Then you screw in your light bulb… 

That’s it.  Just plug in your lamp and start using your remote immediately!    The only exception,  is if you are using multiple light bulbs.  The additionally  purchased ones will not light up initially…

Again, the process to make it work is baffling-ly easy!  Just  stand close to the light you desire to program.  Hold the “on” button for 10 sec…  It will immediately start working.  You can repeat this process with up to 10 lights!

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any cooler…  another game changer…  they are dimm-able!  No additional programming required.  Just  push the dimmer switch and create the perfect atmosphere in seconds!  How amazing is that !?

 Alright folks,  that’s a wrap on this project!  I feel like this could be a great application for lighting over/in kids bunk beds or in poorly lit closets!  You  can bring some essential lighting, or even create some great ambiance in just a few minutes!

 Thanks so much to my sponsors, and to  you for reading along!
Take Luck,

Corey


*I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in the Smart Campaign promotional program.  As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

Laundry Room Makeover with Electrolux

July 27, 2018

*This post is Sponsored by The Home Depot *

Oh my friends,  I cannot stress  to you how excited  I am about today’s reveal! As you may know I have been slowly sharing  the makeover process on the blog over the past two weeks. But today is the day that I get to show you all the fun details…. AND… drum-roll please… I am thrilled to announce I had the opportunity to team up with the great folks over at The Home Depot and Electrolux to bring you this grand reveal!

As you might recall from  previous posts,  I was struggling with my laundry room.  It was small, and it lacked any form of organization.  It was hard to  be time efficient when I felt like I was submerged in absolute chaos. (Believe me, the “before” image you see below is a very G-Rated version of what this room use to look like.)As you can see, it was just enough space for  a washer and dryer with a small walkway to access them.  Well, I had a few ideas to  really maximize the space.  So I added “Open Shelving” and a “Pedestal/Platform” for the washer and dryer.   

Vast improvement, right ? Now that  I have  tackled the issue of aesthetics, and maximizing storage space,  it is time to upgrade in the efficiency department.  That is where Electrolux  came to my aid!

But before I get ahead of myself, come on  in and see my new laundry room!

Isn’t it STUNNING?!   I feel like it all came together perfectly.  This  small footprint room was only large enough to hold a washer and a dryer,  but through use of shelving (of sorts) we were able to maximize  our space! Now instead of  the tops of the washer and dryer being a collection of cluttered cleaners,  it is more of a calm reverie without needing to sacrifice practicality.  Thanks to baskets we have plenty of hidden storage.  Another great way to maximize space and efficiency is by making required cleaners easily accessible and  when possible, beautiful!  (However, always consider any little hands that might have access to cleaners.)

But while we are talking cleaners… holy goodness the Electrolux SmartBoost Washer totally  delivers! I have a full review the specific features that I love about it on The Home Depot’s blog HERE,  but let me give you one little spoiler… this is the first EVER washer designed specifically  for detergent PODS!  Mind blown right!?  They are a step ahead of the game and are making sure they adapt their product to maximize efficiency of  new superior  cleaning agents.   They are a step ahead of the game in so many ways,  make sure you check out my article here for more information. 


  Electrolux didn’t stop their strife for excellence with their washer,  they are making waves with their intuitive Electrolux SmartBoost  Dryer as well! Like I said I  I have a full review  on The Home Depot Apron Blog,  but I can’t help myself!  I’m gonna let you in on one of my favorite features…the dryer has a feature called “Predictive Dry” and it does exactly what it sounds like!  In the first 90 seconds of a dry cycle the moisture sensors in the dryer can predict exactly how long it will take for the entire load to be dry. No more guessing, and wondering if your shirt will be dry by the time you walk out the door.  Within 2 minutes you will have an accurate time frame of when it will be completely dry.  How smart is that !? 

Obviously the platform is a game changer too.  I love the fact that I can hide all the laundry under it! Before the makeover there was literally ZERO space for laundry storage,  now I can fit 3 HUGE laundry baskets under them! Bonus:  No more hunching over to get laundry out,  it is at the perfect working height!

 

All-in-all I say this makeover is a slam dunk. While I still don’t love the never ending chore of laundry, I do love the space infinitely more! My new laundry room coupled Electrolux SmartBoost appliances truly have it all: the brains, the brawn, and the beauty.

 Thanks so much for following along, and “Take Luck”!

Corey

 

*I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in a promotional program.  As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

Laundry Room Pedestal / Platform

July 24, 2018

 

Every once in awhile I will get on Pinterest and browse for ideas. It’s not very often,  on this given day I hopped on and looked up “laundry room”. I am not going to lie all the images of Laundry Rooms that had a bigger footprint than my living room made me drool a little bit, and I DON’T EVEN LIKE LAUNDRY!?!   I had gotten it into my head that “maybe if my laundry room was a little easier on the eyes I wouldn’t mind it so much.  In addition  lack of storage space, or even the space  to turn around without tripping on oneself would be a big step towards that goal.  So,  I dreamed up a way that I could maximize my tiny space without compromising aesthetics.    I basically only  had a big enough footprint to walk in and have the washer and dryer.  So I really needed to maximize that small space where the washer and dryer would sit. I would use all the space above it, and even BELOW them!  That’s right. I found a great way to store my laundry baskets and have over head storage by building a built in laundry platform and overhead shelving.  Bonus:  It even looks amazing!

A big thanks and shout out to this posts sponsor DAP.  It is because of excellent partnerships like these that I am able to continue to provide more content at no cost to my readers.

Tools Suggested: 

  • Miter Saw
  • Table Saw
  • 18 gauge Nailer
  • Drill
  • Level
  • DAP Plastic Wood
  • DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
  • Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

  • 2×4’s
  • 1×6″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
  • 3/4″ Plywood
  • 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
  • 4″ screws
  • Foam Sanding Block
  • Damp Cloth
  • Caulk Gun

Build Platform Frame:

A WORD OF CAUTION:  Now,  I don’t want to intimidate you, this is actually a fairly simple project,  but  you do need to be careful.   I cannot stress enough,  that you need to know  exactly where your studs are! Laundry rooms by nature have plumbing and electrical.  All of that plumbing and electrical has to live somewhere.  Spoiler alert;  they are all located in the walls running next to those studs we are trying to locate.  Now imagine if we accidentally  put a screw though a water line?  It could  potentially  be a fairly  big pain in the *ss.  So in order to avoid that situation,  I STRESS, know where your studs are.   You can do this by using a stud finder,  lots  of homes codes require they be positioned 16″ apart, but sometimes if the wall isn’t divisible by 16″  it can be  a little less reliable.  I just urge you to take the time to locate the studs and then clearly mark them with a pencil.

 

Begin by determining the height of  your pedestal.  I made mine 16″ tall.  I based that measurement off of  our laundry baskets.  The goal was to be able to easily slide  all my laundry baskets under my pedestals.  I began by using a a level and drawing a line at the predetermined height.  I then continued that line  on the two adjoining walls.  Believe me,  having a washer and dryer agitating on  the top of a sloped platform  does not sound ideal.

The first board I added was the back support.  I used standard 2×4’s  for the framing process.    I measure the width of the back wall and cut  my first board. ( You can build the entire platform and install the entire platform.  I did not do this BECAUSE my walls are not all square. I wanted a perfect fit so I cut all my boards to fit in place.)  Next I secured the board to the wall.  I used (x2) 4″ screws  and drilled through the 2×4 into each pre-marked stud location. If this makes you a little ansy,  feel free to extend the length of your screw or if you want to go bunker mode  use lag screws. ( I have zero complaints using  my method,  but if you aren’t use to building and framing homes  this might seem a little light duty.)

Next we attach the side supports using the same method.

 

Next I measured from the front  of my side support to the other to get the front measurement. (Cut x2 of these.) Once cut go ahead and attach it to the front ends of the side supports.

Once the front support is in place,  I added my platform supports. To get this dimension, I just measure my interior platform dimension.  The spacing of these supports will vary dependent on the overall width of your space.  I would  suggest not going more that 14″  apart though.  Once you know your spacing measurement.  Mark the measurements on both your front and back support.  To attach the front board simply drive through the front support  into the platform/middle support.  I again used (x2) 4″  screws in each location.  Now to attach the back.  You have two options,  you can use a Pocket Hole Jig or you can use the rough construction method and “toenail it”.  Seeing as this would not be visible,  I took the quick and dirty approach.   You simply drive a screw through the top of your middle/platform support, at an angle towards your back support.  The trick is to drive through a decent amount of each board.  Repeat this again on the bottom of the board driving up towards the back support.  Repeat this for every support.  Not pictured but HIGHLY suggested.   After the platform is built I went through and added a second 2×4 to the front support.  Nothing special, just literally  used another 2×4 with the exact dimensions and attached it directly to the front of the front support.  This will just be a safeguard in the event  one of them ever gave out.

 

Add Platform:

Next it was time for the platform.  I used a nice 3/4″ plywood for my platform.   I measured  the dimensions of my  already built platform and transferred those dimensions to my plywood, and then cut using a table saw.  Now,  this next part will vary based on the placement of your washer and dryer hookups. Based on the logistics of our washer and dryer  I needed to cut out a hole that would accommodate our dryer ventilation.

It was a quick  process,  when I cut holes I use a 1/2″  drill bit and give myself a starter hole.  Then I use that hole as a starting point for using a jigsaw to cut out the circle. (Make sure you are aware of  the placement of your  2×4 supports that are running under  the platform.  It won’t do you any good have the  hole with a 2×4 in the way.  Last step,  slide your plywood back into place and using screws secure it to the platform.  This will just prevent the plywood from vibrating when the appliances are in use.

 

 

Make It Pretty!:

Next up ?  Make it pretty!  I wanted to make my platform look very polished and a little more beefy. So I added a 1×6 board to the face of my platform.  I left mine with a small lip  on the top.  My husband assures me that  it’s not necessary,  but in my mind I feel like this tiny lip could potentially  prevent a washer from vibrating right off.  Still debatable who is correct,  but I did it, and I don’t regret it.   To add the board measure the width of the from of your platform,  cut your board and screw it to it!

 Now we are to the fun part,  making it look pretty!  Next  I went through and filled all the visible screw holes using DAP Plastic Wood.  It is easy to apply.  Once dried I used a small sanding sponge to remove any excess filler.  It creates a smooth flawless surface!

Once all the holes are filled we can move on to filling any unseemly , seams… see what I did there?   I used DAP ALex caulk to fill all the seams where my platform and met the walls.  This will blend any discrepancies and  make it  look like a flawless built.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip.  Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to.

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!

Once it is all caulked you are ready to go!  DAP Alex Caulk  is paint-able within 30 mins. So,  by the time you have you paint out and prepped you will be good to go!   I wanted my platform to match my Open Shelves and my newly installed Upgraded Baseboards,  so I painted  my  platform Ultra Pure White by Behr.

 Isn’t she a beauty!?  I have all the base work done,  now comes the fun part!  I get to put all the finishing touches on the laundry room.  Make sure you check back for the reveal of this tiny Laundry Room Makeover later this week!

Take Luck,

 Corey

DIY Open Shelving

July 19, 2018

The first project I tackled when we moved into our current home was the kitchen.  ( You can see that here.)  During the kitchen remodel  I started painting all the kitchen cabinets white. As the project evolved  I realized that  I didn’t necessarily want to use all of said cabinets.  Instead, I didn’t even bother finish painting them and stuck them in the garage… fast forward 6 months, and I was getting super annoyed with the lack of storage in the laundry room. So I thought ” maybe those old cabinets would work?” Yeah…  It worked alright.  I thought that maybe I would try  and make them purposefully look different heights, and then I would add shelving in-between? Maybe?  Well, I think with an exhaustive amount of hours I could have made it look a little less embarrassing. But,  then the whole epidemic of  DIY Open Shelving, hit.  I love the look but always thought it was really impractical in the kitchen. (*Gasp!*  Yeah, I said it!)   Well impractical in the kitchen, yes… but in the laundry room?  I think I can make it work!

So today I have teamed up with my friends over at DAP to bring you a basic walk through of the process.  Beginner to built-ins?    NO WORRIES!  That is where DAP products come into play.  It is like an eraser for the little mistakes due either to A.) user error. Or B.) Contractor Error. (In every home I have ever lived in there are always weird discrepancies, and walls that aren’t square.  This makes it really tricky to trim out a room.  But with miracle workers like caulk, and wood filler you can easily fake it until you make it!

Tools Suggested: 

  • Miter Saw
  • Table Saw
  • 18 gauge Nailer
  • Drill
  • 1/8″ Drill Bit
  • Countersink Bit
  • Level
  • DAP Plastic Wood
  • DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
  • Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

  • 1×3″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
  • 1×2″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
  • 3/4″ Plywood
  • 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
  • Foam Sanding Block
  • Damp Cloth
  • Caulk Gun

Remove Old Cabinets:

See, I never even finished painting the doors!  I was not at all sad to remove these.  It was a very liberating 15 mins.  Yes,  it should only take a few minutes to uninstall.  I would suggest  having some help you because it is a little tricky to unscrew them from the wall and also catch them.  

Fill Old Holes:

After you remove your cabinets you will have large holes that might be a little unseemly. These are an easy fix. I like to use Alex Plus Spackling. It comes in a convenient tube,  dries quickly, sand-able,  does not shrink. #winning   Before you go to crazy I would strongly  suggest using a pencil of a piece of tape to indicate where the whole were/are. Why?  Odds are those are where your studs are located.  You will want to know where they are for the installation process.

Install Supports:

For the supports I used a 1×2″  primed  pin board. (You can purchase them pre-primed from The Home Depot and I LOVE it!   To get this dimension simply measure from one wall to the other.  This will be your back support.

When I am starting  the install process I like to begin by tacking my boards in place with a brad nailer.  This will not be a strong, permanent hold, but it will hold it in place long enough to ensure that it is level, and allows me to properly install it. In order to ensure it’s stability make sure you are securing the 1×2″ board into studs. (Remember how I said to take note where your studs are located ?  This is why.)  To secure it to the wall, I begin by marking the screw placement (directly over a stud),  then I used a counter sink bit, next I  pre-drilled using  an 1/8″ drill bit. THEN  I used a 3″ screw to attach the board to the wall/stud. The reason I like to use a countersink bit when attaching built-ins, is because it is easier to conceal. It creates a nice smooth hole to fill.  To fill the hole I used DAP Plastic Wood.  It goes on smooth and is sand-able. Once the filler is completely  dry, I knock it down with a sander until is perfectly  smooth. Then repeat!  You will complete these steps for both the back support and both side supports. (Cut the sides supports based on the desired width of your shelf. (Keep in mind the dimension of the back support. You need to factor in an additional 3/4″ for your overall depth.)   Once you have your desired measurement,  cut the side supports and install the same way we did the back support. Always double check that you are sitting level.

I was creating two different floating shelves, so once my side and back supports were installed, it was looking like this:

Install Shelves:

Next up,  shelving!  I used a 3/4″  birch plywood as my shelving. I measured from the back wall to the front corner of the side supports.   Use this measurement to cut your boards for the shelving. (Then of course measure the length and cut that as well.

 I tend to hate painting built-ins so I painted my shelving boards before I installed them.  Typically  I will need to follow up with some touch up paint,  but that is a fairly painless process. Once they are dry  I laid them so they are resting on the previously installed supports.  I then measure the outer edge. (It is not uncommon to have  not perfectlly square room, so I tend to make every cut to fit, when it comes to built-ins.)  

I used a 1x 3″ primed pine board as the face/front support of my shelves.  The reason for this board is to first,  give stability to the shelf, and also create the appearance of a thicker,  more substantial shelf.  I attach the face of mine using DAP wood glue, and then reinforce with 2″ brad nails. 

Once  the face/front support is attached I went through and filled the holes left from the brad nails.  (Make sure you sand off any excess, and then wipe down.) At this point, the shelf is fairly sturdy,  but as an added precaution,  I used the brad nailer to secure the shelf to the supports below it. (Simply drive a nail through the top of the shelf  into the supports along the the perimeter below it.)

PLEASE KEEP IN MIND:   These shelves can hold a decent amount of weight, but they are not meant to be used as a ladder, or a jungle gym, or a diving board…  you get the idea. 

Install Shelves:

We are in the home stretch!  Now it’s time to hide any and all discrepancies, we are ready for the magic-maker.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip. Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to .

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!

In order to get that flawless built-in appearance, I caulk  under the shelves where the shelf meets the supports.   I also like to caulk the seam where the top of the shelf meets the wall.  In this case it isn’t absolutely necessary because  of how high my shelves are placed,  but as a rule of thumb it is always a good idea. Once it is all caulked you are ready to go!  DAP Alex Caulk  is paint-able within 30 mins. So,  by the time you have you paint out and prepped you will be good to go!  (As I said earlier, I  make sure as many components are painted as possible before install. I much prefer  just touch up paint once the install is complete.)

 Well there you have it, in an afternoon  you can take a truly  boring space and turn it into a beautiful feature!   Just make sure you stay tuned as I wrap up this Laundry Room Makeover,  I am working on some adorable decor to be displayed on this DIY Open Shelving!          Thanks so much for following along!

 Take Luck.

 Corey

How to Update Baseboards

July 16, 2018

Hey All! Today I am coming at you from my sad, back burner laundry room.   This poor area of the house has been neglected since we moved in, and let’s face it for the amount of time I spend in there, it deserved an update! You see, the very first weekend we were in the new house we replaced all the flooring. You can read all about it here.  We were literally  moving furniture in as the other person was laying flooring. So the washer and dryer were shoved in the little laundry room before I could even fix the huge gap  at the baseboards. So the laundry sat like this for 2 years…  But now,  I am finally  tackling the laundry room, and I am working from the ground up!  First on the agenda?  You guessed it, updated baseboards!

So today I have teamed up with my friends over at DAP to bring you a basic walk through of the process.  Beginner to trim work?   NO WORRIES!  That is where DAP products come into play.  It is like an eraser for the little mistakes due either to A.) user error. Or B.) Contractor Error. (In every home I have ever lived in there are always weird discrepancies, and walls that aren’t square.  This makes it really tricky to trim out a room.  But with miracle workers like caulk, and wood filler you can easily fake it until you make it! 

Tools Suggested: 

  • Pry Bar
  • Rubber Mallet or Hammer
  • Pliers
  • Miter Saw
  • 18 gauge Nailer
  • DAP Plastic Wood
  • DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
  • Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

  • 1×6″ Primed Finger Board
  • Quarter Round Trim
  • 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
  • Foam Sanding Block
  • Damp Cloth
  • Caulk Gun

Before you begin:  There are a lot of different options when it comes to baseboards.  There are different materials, widths and designs to choose from.  Me?  I like a big, beefy baseboard with a very simple profile.  That being said, I couldn’t find anything I truly loved in the “baseboard”  section. So I ventured outside of the isle and found this 1×6 primed finger board.  They come in 16′ boards from The Home Depot and I love them!  They are very sturdy,  so they like to hold their shape.  They  don’t mold to the shape of a wavy wall.  WHICH I LIKE!  One of my biggest pet peeves when it comes to homes is being able to see a wall wave. I think flimsy molding only emphasizes the problem.  When I use a sturdier board,  it makes me need to shim a little here and there and correct the problem,  not call attention to it.  I then  resolve any gaps with caulk and paint.  It is amazing what a little caulk and paint can do for a seriously  crooked wall…  Okay,  I will crawl down off my soapbox now. But if you were wondering about my choice, that is my reasoning. THAT and if you want to add any wall treatments such as shiplap or board and batten this gives  you a baseboard with the width to make that feasible. 

 

Remove Existing Baseboards

When removing baseboards, I suggest running a utility blade along the top of the board.  As you will soon see (in the coming steps)  when  finishing baseboards you fill the gap between the wall and the baseboard with caulk.  If you cut that line you can rest assured that you will have a nice clean break. If you don’t you simply risk pulling some of the paint off the wall.  In my case I was replacing my existing baseboards with a much beefier baseboard so I was not too worried about a little pit of paint peel.

Next,  get in there and pull them off!  Don’t be afraid to be forceful.  I like to use a pry bar and hammer.  Just wedge the pry bar in-between the wall and the baseboard and give it a good solid hit with a hammer, or rubber mallet. Once you get it started, it normally  is fairly easy to pull away from the wall.

Remove Any Remaining Nails

Often times when you pull the baseboard away it will leave stubborn nails behind.  You will need to remove these before installing new baseboards.  I just run around with a basic set of pliers and pull them out before moving on.

Measure Dimensions

Now, take a deep breath.   I feel like this is where people start to get overwhelmed.  There are no secret tips,  it is just taking your time to make accurate measurements. In most  rooms you will only  be making 45 degree angle cuts.  I always measure from outside corner to outside corner. If you are in doubt always cut it a little too long, over a little too short. As my Dad  use to say “It’s a lot easier to make a board shorter than it is longer.”

Mark Measurements

Once you have your measurement transfer it to your board.

Tip: If you are cutting a board that will have a 45 degree angle cuts on both ends,  begin by cutting one end at a 45, THEN  measure and mark your board.  When marking my board  I try to always make it so that I when I’m cutting the board I can line the saw blade up with my pencil mark. 

Set Miter to 45 degree angle

If you have never  used a miter saw to make 45 degree cuts,  this is an easy step that will open the door to a lot of new project potential!  Because I am cutting boards that are 5.5″ I needed to cut my board laying flat and use the bevel option on my saw.  This simply means that I am pivoting the saw instead of pivoting the platform the saw is on . (Reference image below.)

Like I said, with the width of my baseboards  I needed to position my boards to use the bevel option. If you are using a shorter basedoard you can stand them on end.  This is a personal choice. Check Fit/Install/Repeat

This is the moment of truth!  Bring your board in and set your board in place.  If it fits nicely “well done!!!”. I like to use a 18 gauge nailer and 2″ nails to set my boards.

Go ahead and move on to the next board.  You will repeat this around the entire space.  Just take careful measurements and be aware of corners. where corners meet you will need to adjust which direction your 45 degree angle goes.

If your boards aren’t perfect, don’t sweat it!  I have been doing this for years, and  I still have ill fitting boards. Sometimes this is totally  out of your control. Many times the room or wall you are working against is not square and you would have to make really wonky cuts to make it line up properly.   So don’t sweat it,  we will cover how to fix those discrepancies in a minute.

Repeat with Quarter Round

This step may or may not be necessary for you.  As stated earlier, I had “recently” *cough cough*  replaced the flooring in this room. Because of this I was left with a 1/2″ gap all around the perimeter of my room.  This simply would not do!  In order to cover that gap I needed to install a piece of “quarter round” trim.  However if you are not doing this in conjunction to replacing floors,  this step is unnecessary. Lucky you!

Prep For Paint

Alright, now that all the baseboards, (and in some case 1/4 round trim) is installed, we are in the home stretch. Now the FUN part,  making it look pretty.  I know they may not be much to look at right now,  but with some of my  favorite products  it will look like a pro installed them.

Start by applying a small amount of DAP Plastic Wood to all  the nail holes in the trim.  This stuff is great, and has been my favorite to use thus far.  It dries quick, is sandable and paintable. LOVE IT! 

Sand

Once the filler dries do a once over with a foam sanding block.  This will remove any excess filler in the event you got a little too enthusiastic. 

Wipe Down

Once you have gone over the boards with a sanding block, and your board feels smooth you are ready to wipe them down with a damp cloth. 

Caulk

NOW we are ready for the magic-maker.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip. Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to .

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!  Ok, now take a look at the difference!  I am telling you ,  caulk is a miracle worker. As my friend Jen Woodhouse says “Try your best and then calk the rest.” Truer words my friend!

Not sold yet ?!  Look at this joint!  Seriously,  I have been doing this for a little while, and when you don’t have straight walls,  perfect joints are nearly impossible.  Look at what caulk did for this corner. 

Paint

Another thing I love about DAP Molding Caulk?  It dries fast! For an impatient DIYer such as myself this is a huge selling factor!   I want to be able to paint and get a project done fast!  I don’t want to be sitting around waiting for caulk to dry.

Alright, there you have it! In an afternoon I was able to make this laundry room look 5 x’s better. AND I only touched the baseboards!  I am telling you I have a lot in store for this space, so stay tuned because I  have teamed up with DAP and The Home Depot to make this space spectacular!

Next up?  Let’s do something about that wall of random half painted cabinets. Stay tuned! Take Luck,

 Corey

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DIY & Design

Meet Corey

Hi everyone, my name is Corey, and I have a problem. I can’t leave well enough alone… The best therapy usually involves a variety of power tools. So, in the few “spare” moments I am not entertaining my two beautiful, rambunctious, boys, I can typically be found hunched over a sewing machine and/or covered in sawdust. All in the efforts to create a perfect balance of aesthetics and practicality in our home.
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