I was finishing up the garage section of the Toy Hauler and decided it needed a little bit of art or decor on a blank wall. Seeing as this was going to be in the “garage”  in a mobile unit,  that also doubles as the kids bunk house, I  knew I needed something…durable. Another requirement…  I could only  use items around my house. (Covid-19)  So, I rummaged through my “future projects” closet  and found a framed piece of artwork I picked up on clearance at Hobby Lobby last year! 

First things first I needed a clean slate so I painted over the zebra print so that I would have blank canvas.

I then used a straight edge and Frogtape to create the appearance of a mat edge.

Next, I needed to get my supplies in order. I had a plethora of leftover paint samples in the garage that I was able to choose from. For this ombre art I used 5 different colors in varying shades of gray. You can use more or less if you so choose. I also needed a stiff bristle brush (chip brush).

Using a “chip brush” I started applying the lightest color first. In order for this technique to work you need to work quickly! I went over it several times in a “w” motion until the brush strokes looked fairly uniform.

Once the first color was on I moved on to the second to lightest color. When switching colors you do not need to change paint brushes just wipe the excess and dry blot it on a paper towel before starting the next color.

Repeat these steps for each of the different colors making sure to blend up and overlap the colors so that there aren’t any drastic lines.

I personally think the broader the hue spectrum the better it turns out. My first color was barely an off-white and my last color was nearly black. I think the stark difference makes it more interesting. I think this technique could be really cool blending different colors too!

Alright, once the last color is in place we are ready to move onto the next phase. Quickly clean your brush thoroughly, or grab a new one.

Before beginning this step I ran my paintbrush under water and towel dried it. They idea is to have a slightly damp brush. I then started at the top (lightest color) and started lightly dragging my brush horizontally across the paint. This is why it is so important to work quickly, you need to be working with wet paint in order for this technique to work.

As best as you can create parallel strokes all the way down to the bottom of the piece. (Darkest color)

Ta-Da! Isn’t it beautiful? Now for the fun part, removing the tape to reveal your art work!

I took one extra precaution to protect the paint, I added a coat of mod-podge on top. This isn’t necessary but it will give it a protective coat while also giving a little bit of luster.

Seriously, how legit does this 5 min piece of art look!?

Once dry I put it back in the original frame and I was good to go! So, without further ado let me show you where this beauty ended up and how awesome the toy hauler garage turned out!

Let me give you are quick refresher on what this space looked like the day we brought it home. Lots of brown and beige, and the general ambience of a cave.

This space definitely needed some love to help it reach its full potential.

With a little bit of elbow grease, paint, new curtains and some new upholstery this place felt so warm and welcoming. No more cave!

Well, there you have it folks a fresh take on a toy hauler garage. (In case you were wondering, yes there is still a bunk bed that drops down from the ceiling. I painted the entire platform white so that it would look like it was just part of the ceiling. It definitely helped brighten and reflect light into this small space!)

If you want to see more of the R.V. Toy Hauler reveal you can check them out in the links below.

• Kitchen Makeover
• Living Area
• Bedroom (coming soon)
• Bathroom (coming soon)

Sources:

• Wall Color- “Repose Gray” Lightened 50%. by Sherwin Williams
• Table Top- Ikea
• Curtains (Tutorial available here.)
• Printed Throw Pillow – Target 2019
• Burnt Red Throw Pillow- T.J. Maxx 2018

Thanks for reading along, and make sure to check back for more R.V. makeover developments.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post How to: Ombre Painting Wall Art appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Here is how I turned  my  old bed slats into an afternoon diy wall decor. 

First I started by figuring out my layout.  Nothing very technical about my method. I first measured the space  I anticipated hanging them, and went from there. In all reality  I just cut one board that would be the max height of the art and started filling the space until the layout appeased me.

Then with what was left of the board I cut 3.5″  pieces that would serve as ledges.  Again, there was no formula for the configuration.  I just started placing the ledges randomly  on the vertical pieces.  I knew that these ledges would hold a tiny vase containing single floral pieces, so mentally  I took into consideration where the pops of color would be, and tried to space out the ledges accordingly. 

Once I had a general idea of placement, I started prepping the boards.  Before assembling the boards I first gave them a once-over with my sander. (Make sure you mark where you want your ledges, or you will be repeating the previous step again, and ain’t nobody got time for that.) 

I then use a bit of wood glue and placed them at the before designed places.  I  like to use wood glue as a quick hold. On a small project like this it works well as a holding agent while attaching them from the back.  It’s just an extra set of hands if you don’t feel like clamping them up.

Once the glue had set for a few minutes  I flipped them over and prepped the board for a screw by pre-drilling  through the board and into the ledge.

As an extra precaution I used a countersink bit, so that the screw would countersink.  Keeping in mind that I want this to hang on the wall and I wanted to make sure that the screws were flush in the board, and would not make my sconce hang out away from the wall.  I then drove in  2″ screws.  Keep in mind, these are only going to be holding very light, very small vases so they will not be holding an exorbitant amount of weight. At this point I stained all of my boards/sconces.  I used  Minwax “Golden Oak”. (It is currently trending in my house). Once the stain had dried I pre-drilled and counter sank a hole at the top center, and bottom center of every board.  This is how I mounted them on the wall.  Remember these are really light weight, and will NOT be holding a lot of weight. If you feel strongly that they need more support you can always place them into studs, or use mollies.  Once the stain in dry you are ready to install.  I made sure to lay out my design in the room I would be hanging them so I could visualize the placement.  I personally  had to to tweak my layout 3 times before I got it just perfect. In all reality, sometimes it really is trial and error. 

BUT, the trial and error was totally worth it!  I love the outcome, and i love that it is so versitile!   I originally  planned on using only greens, but quickly realized that this is a great way to update your space with the different seasons! Seriously,  you could totally  change the feel on a room in a few minutes by simply replacing the flowers! Now,  if you don’t happen to have a large scrap pile, no worries!  You can achieve this look by purchasing (x3) 1×4″ boards.  If you pick up fir stripping pine boards you can make these shelves for less the $10!  Not bad huh?

I am happy to report I spent $0.00 on this challenge. I am really weird and love little glass bottles, and had them on hand. If you do not a have a weird glass bottle fetish and need to purchase some ,I will not judge.  I get a lot of mine from Hobby Lobby. If you catch them on sale you can  pick them up for as little as $1 a piece. I also tend to hoard artificial flowers so I just pulled them out of my silk plant arsenal. Again,  if you do not hoard faux vegetation, this is again a cheap fix. I used very minimal flowers, and only one tiny sprig is necessary per vase.  Most fake plants available at craft stores have multiple buds on each stem. So don’t go crazy, you aren’t going to need much!

Here it is with all green.  I love the simplicity of it!

Isn’t it amazing what you can do with a few pieces of scrap wood and some elbow grease!?  Well if you want some more fun ideas, make sure you check out my friends projects below!

• The House of Wood – DIY Bunk Buddy
• 3×3 Custom – Scrap Wood Trivets
• Ugly Duckling House – Mini Garden Deck
• The Created Home – Animal Coin Banks
• Her Toolbelt – 3D Pixel Art
• The Kim Six Fix – Outdoor Drink Stakes
• DIY Huntress – Scrap Wood Coasters
• Mr. Build It & Mrs. Style It – Bent Plywood Headphone Stand
• At Charlotte’s House – Buffalo Check Tray
• Sawdust 2 Stitches – Scrap Wood Wall Decor
• Bower Power – Pallet Baseball Hat Rack
• Pneumatic Addict – Table with Epoxy Resin
• Anika’s DIY Life – DIY Spice Rack
• 100 Things 2 Do – DIY Can Crusher
• Hazel + Gold Designs – Patio Table Drink Holder
• Reality Daydream – Scrap Wood Shoe Cabinet
• House Becoming Home – Modern DIY Clock
• Chatfield Court – Wooden Garden Obelisk

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Scrap Wood Wall Decor appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

and created  a gorgeous new piece of wall art. While I LOVED my  Pottery Barn inspired cubbies,  (Seen Below) I was ready to change it up a bit.  So today I am teaming up with the good folks over at DAP to bring you  another AWESOME new build. 

When designing my new shelving, I decided to draw inspiration from two different shelving units I designed a while back.   The first being  this little “Concrete Tray Shelving”….

 The other source of inspiration was my Simpson Strong-Tie Shelves. 

By combing these two designs, I have come up with what might possibly be my favorite design ever…

So,  let’s get started?  Today on the blog I am taking you through  the build in a step-by-step tutorial of how I created this piece.  If you want to build it yourself  you can get the PDF printable version that includes a complete cut list, full build plans with 3-D drawings.   You can  get them here:

Step. 1)  Prep Materials

Cut all boards per cut list.  Sand all pieces if desired.

Step. 2) Attach Horizontal Supports to Vertical Base

Using a tape measure mark the placement of the horizontal shelf support.

Next add a small amount of DAP Wood Glue to the end of the horizontal shelf support, and place (and clamp if desired)  where previously measured/marked.  In order to attach these,  I first pre-drilled using a 1/8” drill bit, and a counter sink bit.  Once pre-drilled, secured the support to the vertical piece using a 2 ½” screw.

Repeat above process x3 on each vertical board,  for a TOTAL of (9) shelf supports.

Step. 3)  Attach Diagonal Supports

Next  attach all diagonal supports.  Measure  and mark with a pencil ¾” from the end of the horizontal support.  This will be where the point of your diagonal support will need to be secured.

Add a small amount of DAP Wood Glue to the inside of the diagonal support and lay in place,  making sure the 45 degree angle sits flush with the top of the horizontal support and with the back of the vertical piece.

Once in place, reinforce with a 1 ½ “ 18 gauge nail.

Repeat the same step on both sides of each horizontal support for a total of (18) diagonal supports.

Step. 4)  Build Shelves

The ¾” plywood will serve as the actual shelf.  The 1”x 2” boards will serve as an edging that will bulk up the look of the shelf and create stability.

Per the cut list use the 1” x 2” boards to wrap around the front and the sides of the plywood. When attaching these pieces I used both DAP Wood Glue and DAP Rapid fuse for an instant bond. I then tacked it in place using 1 ½” 16 gauge nails.

Step. 5)  Finish

Once the shelf supports and shelves are complete, prepare them for a finish of your choice.   Begin by filling all the nail holes with DAP Plastic Wood Nail filler. (It is both stainable and paintable.)  Once the filler has adequately dried remove all excess filler by sanding it smooth.

Once sanded, apply your choice of stain and/or paint.

Step. 6) Install

To attach my supports to the wall, I used a counter sink bit, and a 1/8” drill bit to pre-drill.   I did this at both the top, bottom and the middle of EACH vertical bracket. For a total of 3  4” screws in EACH board.

I designed these shelves so that the vertical base/supports would be secured on my wall into studs. Stud placement in my interior walls is 24”. It is important that if these will be holding any significant amount of weight that they be properly secured!

Once pre-drilled, install to the desired wall.  Make sure you mark the placement of your studs, and use a level and tape meaure to make sure they are all level and equal distant.

Once the supports are properly  secured to the wall/into studs,  add the shelves.

To attach the shelves to the  supports I again,  pre-drilled at the back of the shelving and used a 2” screw to attached the horizontal shelves the the brackets.  I found the (1)  screw in each bracket worked well,  but adding a second to each wouldn’t hurt.

 There you have it folks!  The perfect solution for a blank wall space. It is a fun new twist on the widely  loved open shelving concept.  Thanks so much for following along, don’t forget you can get all the build plan details here.

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Bracket Open Shelving appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I was trying to figure out approximate size, so I went up to my home gym (you may recall it from the Frogtape Makeover Challenge)  and I borrowed the large sign I had made for the gym… well I ended up loving the style so much that I simply duplicated the looked and this is how I did it!

Supplies Used: 

• 1/4″ MDF Paneling
• 1/2″ Pine Boards
• Sand Paper
• Clean Cloth
• Wood Glue
• D-Rings
• White Primer/Paint
• Carbon Paper
• Sharpie Markers
• Black Craft Paint
• Paint Brushes
• Stain (your color preference)

Tools Suggested: 

• Table saw (or ask the nice folks at The Home Depot to cut it for you in store)
• Miter Saw
• Sander
• Finish Nailer
• Drill
• Sponge Sanding Block
• Sponge Paint Roller

I went to The Home Depot and picked up a piece of 1/4″ MDF paneling.  It’s fairly cheap, yet sturdy and smooth. A 8×10′ sheet  is about $13.00. (If you are wanting to create a smaller size piece, they  do sell “handy panels” that are 2×4′)  I was going to make this sign HUGE !  I cut my  MDF to my desired size. (Mine is about 58″x 42″)

Once the MDF is cut,  I needed to prep it for paint.  I scuffed up my MDF board using a fine grit sandpaper. (MDF is a naturally  very smooth, with an almost polished finish.  It needs to be scuffed for proper paint adhesion.)

Once the entire board was  LIGHTLY  scuffed.  I needed to remove all of the dust and residue left from the sanding. To do this I went over the board with a clean damp cloth.

Once the board had air dried for a few minutes,  I proceeded to paint. I chose to use a low sheen white. The best advise I can give you, is to use a paint and primer all in one.  It speeds up the process. 

Once the coat of paint is COMPLETELY  dry, I like to go over all my painted pieces with a fine grit sponge sand block.  I am TELLING you people,  this little step will make all the difference when it comes to smooth  paint finishes!  Once you have used the sponge sander,  wipe down with damp cloth and repeat painting/sanding steps until you have a nice uniform coverage. While the paint is drying I wentto work making a large frame. To make my frame I used standard pine 1×2″ boards.   I based the dimensions of my frame off of my paneling/sign. Making sure the length/width of my panel matched the inside cuts of my frame pieces. When I make frames,  I use a rather quick and dirty technique.  I glue my mitered corners and then reinforce with 2″ 18 gauge nails.  I then move on to the next corner.   I repeat this process until all the corners are glued and secured.  I then  add corner supports, attaching in the same method.  The corner supports are  leftover 1×2″ boards cut with (x2) 45 degree angles on each end.  These supports will help reinforce the corners, keep the frame square and give you a surface to attach the paneling too.   Seeing as this is such a BIG piece I also added vertical supports.  When attaching these, I used pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws.  These supports will be what  I attach the “D-Rings” to so that I can hang it on the wall.
 I already had a good idea what I wanted my  sign to look like,  but I find using a computer to help with spacing and visualize the look is extremely helpful!   Mapping it out on a computer makes life so much easier!  I then just need to pick a font size.  To do this I just measure the width of my  board and decided how much space I wanted each line to take up.  So for instance,  say  I wanted my  first line to be 36″ wide.   I would divide  the number of letters in the line. (M-A-Y-D-A-Y D-R-I-V-E)  PLUS 1 for the space between the words and would get a total of 12.  I then divide 36 by 12= 3.  So  I made each letter approximately  3″ wide in my WORD program.  Then printed.

 This is definitely an old school technique, but hey,  I have no desire to buy a vinyl cutter that  I will use once a year, and then I need to store the rest of the year. So this is how I do it!    Just tape your design in place and then trace with carbon paper! TIP:  I always print my letters as an “outline”.  Why? First, so I don’t waste a TON of ink,  but ALSO… when I trace the letters with a colored pencil it is easier to make sure I have traced ALL the lines. 

 I forgot to take a picture,  but here is another tip!  BEFORE you start painting your letters,  I trace all of my outlines with a black permanent marker!  It is easier for me to get a straight lines with a marker, and then I fill in the rest with basic crafting acrylic paint. 

 Next we need to get the frame ready for the panel/sign.  I first stained my frame with “Golden Oak”  by Minwax, and then I attached “D-Rings to the back vertical supports.   Once both the sign and the frame was dry, I combined the two. I added a bead of glue to all the vertical supports and the corner supports, and then laid the sign on top and weighted it down.  ( I am also an impatient person and did not want to wait for the glue to dry, so I tacked the sign to the back supports using a pin nailer.)

NOW  you are ready to install!  Make sure you properly mount it into either,  studs,  or you use a heavy duty mollies.   That’s it!  You now have a HUGE piece of completely  custom artwork for  approximately $20!  That ain’t bad at all!

Check back soon for the rest of the dining room reveal!

Take Luck,

Corey  

The post DIY Diner Wall Art Sign appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

So, for my submission I decided to create a partial design on 1 square and repeat it three more times, with the plan that it would create one whole design.  Hot dang it worked, and I love it!  I am starting to add touches of more modern, geometric patterns, and this was the perfect  first step!

P.S.  Make sure you  check out all of my friends submissions for the project.  You can find them all at the bottom of the post!

1) Reality Daydream / 2) 100 Things 2 Do / 3) House Becoming Home / 4) Anika’s DIY Life / 5) My Repurposed Life / 6) 3×3 Custom / 7) One Project Closer / 8) Merrypad / 9) Chatfield Court / 10) Create & Babble / 11) Hazel & Gold / 12) Jen Woodhouse / 13) Sawdust 2 Stitches / 14) Wood Work Life / 15) Remodelaholic / 16)  Evan & Katelyn / 17) Jaime Costigio / 18)  Pneumatic Addict / 19)  Bower Power / 20) Lazy Guy DIY / 21) My Love 2 Create / 22) Addicted 2 DIY / 23) Her ToolBelt / 24) Shades of Blue / 25) Ugly Duckling House / 26) The DIY Village / 27) DIY Huntress / 28) Mr Fix It DIY

Materials Used:

• 1×2 Boards (x3 per square or 12 for set)
• Wood Glue
• Sandpaper

Tools Suggested:

• Miter Saw
• Clamps
• Pocket Jig

The post Wooden Wall Art appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

So I found this great Etsy store: Minimal Map Designs .  This shop sells printable maps online.  You can purchase custom PDF maps that you print off at your local print shop. So for a couple of bucks a piece, you get a custom piece of art!  Booyah! Now how to turn it into Vintage Map Wall Art!

I printed them at our local Staples as “Blueprint” size print.  The size of the actual paper was a little big, so I needed to trim down some of the edges.  I used a straight edge and a rotary cutter.  I ended up giving the map  a 3/4″ border.

 Once all the edges were trimmed  I was ready to age my paper!  I used about 8 English Breakfast tea packets and 4ish cups of hot water.  You don’t need a lot of the tea solution,  just enough to coat the print with.  I used a large plastic tub to dip dye it in.   It only needs a few seconds in the tea, and then gently pull it out of the solution. 

As soon as you pull the print from the tea,  place it on a dry towel.  I am not going to lie, these papers will be delicate so be careful!  Once it is completely  dried I repeated the process again.   This is not necessary,  but I wanted to deepen the color.  After two baths in the tea solution it had a perfect  vintage patina! 

Vintage Map Wall Art – IKEA Framing

I then put it in a very cheap IKEA frame!  You can get these big frames for only $14.99.. 

 The one odd thing about the size of these prints is that they ARE NOT standard U.S. size prints. So instead of placing the print behind the matte, I placed it on top. Voila! Worked perfectly.

For the perfect finishing touch I used these awesome clip from Crate and Barrel.

 I am SO  thrilled with the way these pieces of art came out!  But I am not half as excited  about these as I am the room they are in !  Stay tuned, the whole room reveal is coming and it is going to be EPIC!

 Thanks for reading and TAKE LUCK!

Corey

The post Vintage Map Wall Art appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Supplies Used:

• (2) 1″ x 6″ boards (96″)
• (2) 1″ x 2″ boards (96″)
• Stain
• Nail Filler
• 2″ 16 Gauge Nails
• Wood Glue

Tools Suggested:

• Miter Saw
• Nail Gun
• Sander
• Tape Measure

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1. Prep Boards

 Cut List:

1″ x 6″ Board

• (2) 25 1/2″
• (3) 24

1″ x 2″ Board

• (5) 25 1/2″
• (1) 24″

 Step 2. Frame

Join both 25 1/2″ and 24″ 1×6″ boards using wood glue and 2 inch, 16 gauge finishing nails. This will form a 25 1/2″ square. Insert remaining 24″ 1×6″ board so that the bottom of the board is 12″ from the top of the unit. Then secure using glue and 2″ 16 gauge finishing nails.

Step 3. Front Rails

Attach the 25 1/2″ 1×2″ board(s) to the face of the unit using wood glue and 2 inch 16 gauge finishing nails.

Step 4. Back Support

Attach the remaining 24″ 1×2″board using wood glue and 2 inch 16 gauge finishing nails. This is an ideal place to attach the unit to the wall, or you can attach hanging hardware to the back.

Step 5. Finish

Fill all nail holes with wood filler. Sand smooth, then apply desire stain and/or paint.

 That is all there is to it!  You can use it stand alone, or you can combine it with others !

 Pottery Barn Inspired Mug Rack

Pottery Barn Inspired Glass Rack 

Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Shelf 

For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also, follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

The post Pottery Barn Inspired Plate Rack appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

This is what the previous owners did… hmm…

My vision for the office was this,  it needed to be functional (see craft cabinet ideas here) , and it involved  a lot of frames.  I wanted lots of texture and contrast, but most importantly it needed to be done cheaply.  So here is what  I did.

I went to thrift store and found a plethora  of frames, any size and shape, as long as they were cheap and all wood they fit the bill.  I think I spent maybe $15.00 on all of them.   I brought them home and laid them out on the GROUND it is much  easier to create a collage if you simply rearrange without putting new holes in the wall.  Once I found  a good arrangment I then put them up on the wall.

The post Office Wall Collage appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.