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Dessert Carrier/ Pie Box

February 15, 2017

I don’t really keep it a secret that I am not necessarily a connoisseur in the kitchen. Don’t get me wrong, I can cook when I really put my mind to it, but it’s kind of like making my ~~husband~~ uhh, I mean KIDS take family pictures. There may be some huffing and puffing, some bribery, and possibly tears, but in the end it turns out all right. (At least nothing a little photoshop can’t fix 🙂 I digress, the inspiration behind today’s post was actually a bake sale. Our church hosts a dessert auction every year and instead of buying something from the store and trying to pass it off as homemade, I decided to play to my strengths. I am a builder not a baker. (But you have to agree those cookies look lovely! They tasted like little morsels of heaven too. Like I said, I CAN bake I would just rather chew my own arm off.) Oh man, I am two-time digresser… digresse?, like I was saying, I decided to build this adorable dessert carrier filled with cookies as my contribution and it went amazingly well!

Dessert Carrier/Pie Box

BEFORE YOU BUILD-

I did not use finish that would allow me to serve food directly on it, I still have a protective barrier between anything edible and the finish.

Mine vs. Yours: Today I am going to show you how to make a dessert carrier/pie box. One thing to note, I have access to a planer, and wanted to make my box a little more low profile, so I planed all my boards down to 1/2″ thickness. I realize not everyone has access to one, so I used the dimensions of a standard size board 3/4″ for these build plans!

Supply List:

1″x 12″ x 6′ Pine Board
5/8″ Dowel Rod
2″x 1/4″ Bolt with Nuts
(4) 1/4″ Washers
(2) 1/4″ Locking Washer
(2) Wooden Knobs
(4) Small Hinges
Carbon/Transfer Paper (Optional)
White Wash Pickling (Optional)
Jacobean Stain (Optional)

Tools Recommended:

Table Saw
Miter Saw
Drill and 1/4″ Drill Bit
Finish Nailer
5/8″ Forstner Bit

Cut List:

Base: 11 1/4″ x 11 1/4″
Sides: 12 3/4″ Reference “Step 3”
Tall Sides: See “Step 2”
Lids:
Side Handle: 1 1/2″x 9 3/4″
Dowel: 14 1/4″- 14 1/2″ (Depending on thickness of the washers you use.)

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Step 1: Cut Diagram

Ok, the day didn’t quite go as planned, and I will have a cut diagram soon-ish.

Step 2: The Base

Did you know: When you purchase a standard 1″ x 12″ board it’s finished dimensions should actually be 3/4″x 11 1/4″ so you will just need to make one cut in order to get a 11 1/4″ x 11 1/4″ base.

Step 3: “Tall Sides”

Cut (2) of these “tall sides” to the below dimensions.

Once cut you will attach to two opposing sides. I first applied wood glue and then reinforced with 1- 1/2″ , 18 gauge nails.

Step 4: Short Sides

When cutting the sides you will want to use the table saw set at a 24 degree angle.

If all goes according to plan, the sides/angles should continue flawlessly. If “life happened” somewhere in there, you can always level it out with some sand paper.

Again, I first applied wood glue and then reinforced with 1- 1/2″ , 18 gauge nails.

Step 5: Lids

Ok, I am going to throw some more angles at you. Breathe deep! Actually. all the angles you will be using are 24 degree angles. Each lid will be 7″ (from short point to long point) x 12 3/4″ inches. reference the diagram below, you got this.

You may have noticed that my lids appear as though it is made up of four different boards. It is all an illusion my Dear Watson. I just used my table saw to cut a groove out in the center of my board. It is about 1/4″ wide and a 1/4″ deep. Not necessary, but I like the look of it , and I like to overly complicate everything.
Next we are ready to install the hinges. I installed (x4) 1-1/2″ hinges, approximately 1 1/2″ from each edge. I REALLY wish I had some sage advice… all I can say is “Take Luck” my friend.

Step 6: Handle

Next the handle. We will be drilling 2 different holes in the side section of the handle. The handle is the same dimensions of a 1″x 2 ” standard board (which is actually 3/4″x 1 1/2″, yeah confusing right?) Anyways, you can make your handle using a 1″ x 2″ standard board or you can cut some of the scrap from your 1″x 12″ board. Either way works.

Next attach the the handles using the bolts, washers, and nut.

Once both of the side handles are attached, added a dab of wood glue to both recently drilled holes. One the dowel was in place I left it there to dry until the glue set. If you have a pin nailer I would suggest nailing through the side handle so that it connects with the dowel rod.

Now would also be a good time to add knobs, if you feel so inclined.

Step 7: Finishing Touches

To finish mine, I stained mine with Jacobean Stain. After staring at it for two days, I decided I would much prefer it lighter. So I then added two layers of White Wash Pickling. It lightened it up and gave it an old warn look. I decided to play up the worn look and scuffed up the edges using sandpaper.

Once the finish was dry, I decided to add a touch more detail. (Seriously, I can’t leave well enough alone to save my life.) I free-handed this “Baked Goods” sign on to my carrier. Lucky for you, I made a copy so that you can simply use Carbon/Transfer Paper ! Click here : Baked Goods Template and print!

After the image is transferred I went over the design with black acrylic paint, once it had time to dry, I used a little bit of sandpaper to distress the signage.

That is pretty much it! Oh and if you are wondering… it brought in $120 at the church auction. BAM!

Take Luck,

Corey

IKEA Makeover into Pottery Barn Style Apothecary

February 2, 2017

IKEA Makeover into Pottery Barn Style Apothecary

Hey All! So a little introduction to this next makeover. It is kind of a big deal to me, you see it was my first big furniture makeover. It all started when I was at IKEA browsing the “Scratch-and-Dent” bargain area about 7 years ago. That’s when I saw it, an Expedit console in the dark brown! I know this may seem odd that I was excited about it, but I was thrilled! You see, my husband and I had just moved and we were currently using a (Free) small bench as a T.V. stand. We also had a 1 year old that was now standing up and trying to grab at the T.V. We definitely needed something that would keep it out of slobbery/goldfish covered hands. So, I bought it then and there. 70% off, I couldn’t pass that up!?

Fast-forward 3.5 years, and you would find me sitting on the floor of our little condo with a hand saw, (yes HAND SAW) good old fashion hammer and nails, with wood glue trying to give my little IKEA console a makeover. (I actually ended up dismantling the original, simply because I needed to document the process. That’s commitment people! The second time around I had access to power tools.)

I had no clue what I was doing, but after staring at that boxy piece, that showcased all my kids diapers, tonka trucks, and modem wires, I had had it. Honestly, I think my husband might have thought I had snapped. THIS was my first big project and the start of a beautiful on-going relationship with upcycles. You can see more of them here.

IKEA Makeover into Pottery Barn Style Apothecary

Materials Used:

Old Ikea shelf or something similar
1×2’s
1×4’s
2×4’s
2×8’s
Lattice Strips
Wood Glue
Stain
Foam Brushes
Drawer Pull/Tag Pull
Magnetic Cabinet Catch

Tools Suggested :

Nail Gun
Compressor
Table Saw
Miter Saw
Sander

DISCLOSURE: SOME OF THE LINKS PROVIDED ARE AFFILIATE LINKS. BY PURCHASING THROUGH THESE LINKS IT SUPPORTS THIS SITE AND HELPS KEEP CONTENT FREE. YOU CAN READ MORE ABOUT HOW WE DO THIS WITH NO EXTRA COST TO YOU.

BEFORE we dive into this, please understand that these are not BUILD PLANS. I don’t have specific measurements. This tutorial is intended to be more of a general guideline that can be applied toward many different size/style pieces.

Step 1: Add Height –

I wanted to give the base some visual weight, so I began by adding height to the base. I found the easiest way was to flip it over and attached 2″x 4″ boards directly to the base of the unit.

Then turn right side up. Next task is to I cover the exposed 2″x 4″s by adding 1″x 4″ boards (trim) to the base. I cut the boards with 45 degree angles on the ends.

I secured the trim piece (1″x 4″ boards) with wood glue, and reinforced with 2″ finish nails.

Step 2: Repeat on Top-

Now that the base is beefed up, I wanted to give the top a little more thickness as well. However I wanted it to be a little lower profile than the base, so I used 1×4’s instead of 2×4’s. Again, I just tacked it in place, giving the top some extra visual weight.

I used 2×8’s for the top. I cut them so that would hang out over the top a little bit and give it a lip. This step alone makes it look SO much better !

Once the top of the console was in place I trimmed out the top of the shelf. ( I basically repeated the same steps from the base. Only this time I was covering the 1×4’s.)

Step 3 : The Sides

Next up, sides! I decided to start in the corners.

I ended up doing mitered corners, using my table saw. ( You can always just use a 1×3″ and 1×2″ and and have them butt into each other.)

It is coming together people!

I used a 1×2 to frame in the rest of the side, leaving a large open ugly laminate area.

I decided to use lattice, because is has a much smaller profile and would create depth. That, and I just love the look of it, and it’s cheap!

Using a sander I scuffed up the laminate, because I was planning out using glue to help hold the lattice in place, and everything sticks better to non-glossy surfaces.

I simply measured, cut, glued, nailed, and then repeated on both sides of the console.

Step 4: Dividers

At this point you can easily call it good enough and move on to painting and/or staining. But not me. I had to go all “Corey” on it. I decided to hide any evidences of laminate. Including the shelf fronts.

Once I had completely covered all traces of laminate, I moved on the “drawer” front.

Step 5: Drawer Fronts

1.) I cut a piece of paneling that was the dimensions of the cubby opening. I also cut 1×4’s the same width.

2.) Using liquid nails I adhered the planks on to the piece of paneling.

3.) After it had completely dried I sanded it.

4.) It’s now ready for stain and hardware.

Once I had made all my drawer fronts, using 1×2’s I cut two strips of wood that were the same width of EACH cubby. (These will be used to install the drawer fronts. )

The strips of wood that I cut out of 1×2’s are used to keep the drawer front in place. The “drawer” panel will rest against the wood slats and the magnetic catch will hold it in place. This system works PERFECTLY for appliances like printers, computers, routers, etc!

I personally did make a few drawers to hold the kids toys and diapers. (I won’t be going into that today) But if you have your heart set on it, it is totally doable.

If the idea of making drawers sounds overwhelming, maybe you should consider making some simple crates ? Possibly using decorative baskets ? Ikea also makes a whole line of baskets meant to fit their shelves. The possibilities are endless!

Seriously, look at how much crap those little magnetic catch doors can hide!!? There is always a way to make form and function meet. Sometimes it takes a lot of elbow grease, and seriously stubborn disposition, but it is possible!

Take Luck.
Corey

Chalkboard Organizer

January 18, 2017

I hope I am not alone in my need to have reminders largely displayed in my home. I swear I would forget to pick up my kids from school if I did not write it down. Okay, that may be a bit of an exaggeration, but you get my point. I need large constant reminders to keep me on track. Here is the other thing, I am not a fan of the old school white erase board. Effective? Yes. Ugly ? YOU BET! So here is my compromise of form and function… build this chalkboard organizer for around $25 (and less if you have scraps!) Enjoy!

DIY Chalkboard Organizer

How to Build A Wall-Mount Chalkboard Organizer

Tools Suggested:

Table Saw
Miter Saw
Nail Gun
Drill

Materials Used:

(x2) 1×3″ Pine Board
(x1) 1×2″ Pine Board
2×4′ Chalkboard Handy Panel (or use chalkboard paint on a scrap piece)
(x5)- 1/2″ Dowel Rods (24″)
Stain
1″ and 2″ 16 gauge finish nails

Cut List:

(x2) 1″x 3 ” @ 25 1/2″ (w/ 45 degree cuts on ends)
(x2) 1″x 3 ” @ 37 1/2″ (w/ 45 degree cuts on ends)
(x2) 1″x 2 ” @ 24″ (w/ 45 degree cuts on ends)
(x8) 1″ x 2″ @ 5 1/2″ (w/15 degree cuts on ends) REFERENCE “Step 2.” for clarification.
(x4) 1″ x 2″ @ 5 1/2″ (w/15 degree cuts on end one end and 45 degree on other) REFERENCE “Step 2.” for clarification.
(x5) 1/2″ Dowel Rods @ 24″
Chalkboard Paneling @ 24″x 36″

Step 1. Build Frame

Using the 1″x 3″ boards construct a frame. I used wood glue on my corners and reinforced with 2″ finish nails.

Step 2. Install Spacers

Next we will be be cutting and installing the brackets. These will all be made from the 1×2″ boards. These are a little tricky, so PLEASE reference the diagrams below. Notice they are not 45 degree angles, they are 15 degree cuts, (with 1/2″ spaces in between boards, this is where the dowel rods will rest) and the boards that meet in the corners are 45 degree miter cuts.

*When installing, center the 1×2″ boards on the 1×3″ board. ( This should create a 1/2″ gap on either side of the 1″×2″, so you can install your chalkboard backing.)

I installed my 1×2″ boards using wood glue and 1″ 16 gauge finish nails.

Step 3. Add Top & Bottom Supports

Now you can add your remaining 1″x 2″ boards. Again, I used glue and reinforced with nails. (REMEMBER to leave the 1/2″ gap in the back to allow for the chalkboard panel.)

Step 4. Add Chalkboard

STOP! If you are planning to add a stain/paint finish, then I would suggest doing that now! ( I used Jacobean by Minwax)

You are in the home stretch! To secure the chalkboard panel I just added small amounts of wood glue to the back of the inner frame. ( All the 1″x 2″ boards)

Step 5. Add Dividers

All you have to do for this step is drop in the dowel rods! They are removable so that you can divide up your board however you please!

Step 6. Finishing Touches

I wanted to add some character to mine so I added some brackets to the sides! I wanted to be able to use a rope to tie it up and this would allow me to do that.

There you have it, now it’s up to you to use it, personalize, and love it! Hopefully it helps you stay organized… or… it will just make any room look cuter.

Take Luck,

Corey

A Cabinet Makeover that will turn heads!

January 10, 2017

Hey all! You all KNOW I love a good furniture makeover/upcycle/re-purpose project right ? Well, if you didn’t I am telling you now! (You can check out my other re-purposed furniture projects here.) There is something about the challenge! (As a builder it is normally easier for me to start from scratch.) I love working with something plain ol’ Jane and giving it a very satisfying transformation. Admit it, you love that part of Fixer Upper, Princess Diaries, etc… For today’s project I am teaming up with the great folks at Kreg, to show you, you don’t need to be a skilled craftsman to add the “WOW” factor to those old pieces of furniture gathering dust ! So let’s do this, let’s give this old cabinet a makeover!

Cabinet Makeover

Supplies I Used:

Old Cabinet in need of a facelift
Materials for Faceframe (1″x 3″ and 1″x 2″ boards are common)
Chicken Wire
Concealed Hinges
1/2″-3/4″ Plywood (for constructing the drawers)
Heavy Duty Stapler (attaching chicken wire to interior of doors)

Tools I Used:

Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
Steel Prybar (I used this to remove original the original face frame)
Miter Saw
Drill
Kreg Drawer Slide Jig
Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig
Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig
Heavy Duty Stapler

cabinet-upcycle-makeover-by-sawdust2stitches-com — (Call me over-eager , I forgot to take pictures of it WITH the the shelves in it.. They were in there I promise.)

Step 1. The Carcass

Ok, I know “carcass” may sound a little morbid, but not worries, I am not loosing my mind to the nature channel. “Carcass” is what cabinet makers refer to the base of a cabinet. (Now you will sound official should you ever need to contribute to conversation at a woodworkers convention. You’re welcome.) Moving on.

Alright this part is not always necessary, but for the vision that I had for this, it would make it easier. Which leads perfectly into …

Step 2. Building a Face Frame

Making a Face Frame is once of the easiest things you can do totally change the entire look and function of a piece. I was able to use part of the original face frame and simply add a few rails. (“Rails” are the wooden pieces that run horizontally. As opposed to “Stiles” that run vertical.) Look at you, learning vernacular like a beast!

There are a lot of methods to making a “face frame”, my preferred method, (and by far the easiest in my opinion) is using a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig. They are very user friendly, and make it possible to join the rails and stiles perfectly!

Step 3. Attach Face Frame

Alright, now we are ready to re-attach our face frame. There are several ways to do this, you can use Kreg Pocket Hole Jig or you can use wood glue and clamps.

Step 4. Bring your “A” game! (Add drawers)

Remember those “rails” we added? This is why I did it… I wanted to add drawers! Never made a drawer ? It’s not hard , you are essentially making a box! The one thing that always freaked me out about adding drawers was installing the glides! Am I right ? Seriously they left me cursing and then breathing into a paper bag. ( I can do hard things, I can do hard things!) Kreg must have heard my cry of obscenities, because they created a jig that would save me time and bring my shop talk back to G-rated… Well, that’s a lie, but it was definitely closer to a PG-13 level.

They created these beauties! GAME CHANGERS.

These Kreg Drawer Slide Jigs level, measure, gives you an extra set of hands, and makes dinner. Ok, maybe not make dinner, but you get what I am saying, these things help me get it right the first time! These jigs clamp right in place and have tabs that hold it perfectly in place. Seriously, game changer. But wait there is more! They not only help install the glides to the cabinet, they perfectly allow you to install the slides to the drawers themselves. No more adjusting and drilling a hundred tiny holes and praying you get it right. The drawers are positioned for perfect alignment.

Step 5 . Add Doors

Another great way to bring your makeover to the next level is to add doors! I wanted to have something that would give it character, not just a paneled door. So, formed two empty frame doors.
It is a very simple build that only requires adding Kreg Pocket Holes to the rails. Clamp them down and screw them in place…Phrasing. Now for the hinges… Installing hinges use to send me running for my paper bag. Not anymore! I used the new Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig. You just clamp it in place and drill, then repeat. Perfection.

When it comes to adding the doors I like to put them on a board that rests on the ground and then attach the hinges to the interior of the cabinet. This little trick will ensure that the doors sit perfectly with no wonky business going on.

Step 6. Add Drawer Fronts

Next I made my drawer fronts from a piece of 1’x 10″ pine. I measure so that the drawer would be 1″ wider AND taller that the opening for the drawer. (This will create a 1/2″ overlap all the way around.) I picked my hardware and was ready to install. Again Kreg ingenuity to the rescue. They have create a Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig that allows yo to adjust the exact placement of your drilled holes, and has preset notches for standard width handles, pulls, and knobs! My favorite part, is the steel collar that allows your drill to essentially become a pseudo drill-press. The collar ensures that the hole is drilled STRAIGHT! ( I am ashamed to admit I have had my kitchen cabinets hole placement have a little bit of crazy-eyed action going on. No more!

Now that the drawer front has the pull/handle installed, I was ready to attach the drawer front to the drawer. I used clamps to hold the drawer front in place and used

I like to use the same tip to add my drawer fronts as I did my cabinet doors. (See step 5. )

Step 7. Finishing Touches

I wanted to give it a little height and some farmhouse character, so I added some screw on legs right before I painted it. ( I removed the drawer hardware so that I could use a paint sprayer to apply the paint.)

While that was drying I took the back ( that we already removed), and cut it up! Yup, I cut it up into about 5.5″ strips, sanded the edges, and then painted them white as well. This will create a fun shiplap look for the backing. Once the strips were dry I reattached them to the back with wood glue , and reinforced with 1″ finish nails.

I also added some trim and a wood slab to the top to add balance to the top. Also, I really wanted this to be a two-tone piece (paint and stain combined in the same piece). The new trim and top slab of wood, would allow me to create the “two-tone” look.

The only thing I needed to do was re-attach the doors and add “chicken wire” to the inside of the doors and this baby was done!

Ta-Da! Mind BLOWN! #micdrop

Well there you have it folks, yet another win for re-purposed projects everywhere!

Take Luck,

Corey

Christmas Tablescape

December 16, 2016

Hey all, welcome! In the event you stumbled upon this post by chance, you are in luck, this post is part of a Holiday Tablescape series! OR…

if you are already well aware of the party in progress, in which case… Didn’t you just love Remodelando la Casa tablescape!? I love the natural look with pops of red. Obviously.

Alright you guys, today we are talking centerpieces. Putting together a stunning tablescape does not need to leave you breathing into paper bag! I threw this one together fairly quickly using lots of things from around the house!

I don’t necessarily take away from the magic of this tablescape, but I am going to show you a few tips and tricks to do an elegant tablescape on the cheap.

See, not that bad right ?! Look at what a few fairly inexpensive pieces can create. It doesn’t need to have a Pottery Barn price in order to look designer!

Do you like to decorate your table for the holidays? You’ll want to check out the rest of the Holiday Tablescape Tour for more ideas!

Head on over at Stacy Risenmay, you’ll love her tablescape! Here is a sneak peak:

Decor Adventures
Her Toolbelt
I Am a Homemaker
Pretty Handy Girl
Remodelando la Casa
Sawdust 2 Stitches
Stacy Risenmay
That’s My Letter

Enjoy the rest of the tour!

How to: Give a Gift Card (Like a Boss)

December 15, 2016

Hey there Sportsfans! I have got to tell you, I have been so dang excited to share my latest Home Depot project! I don’t know what it is!? It is by far one of my smallest projects, but I just freaking love it! Is it not the cutest thing you have seen all day !?

Do you know anyone fixing up a house, building a new home, newly married, or someone wanting to learn a new trade? Gift Cards can be the perfect way show your love and support to friends and family! So, today I am showing you how I add a little bit of personalization to a gift card giving!

When you give a gift card, you have plenty of fun and festive desigsns to choose from, AND they are re-loadable for the recipient conveninece. However, if you are trying to do some last minute gift giving they do have a very convenient e-card that can be sent digitally! You can get all the info here. #Sponsored

○ Visit http://www.homedepot.com/c/Gift_Cards to

Materials Used:

1 pack of Paint Sticks (10 per pack)
Rapid Fuse Glue (It’s like super glue for wood!)
3/4″ bolt and nut
Plumbing Hanger
Perforated Metal Hanging Straps

Alright, so if you are interested in making your own, here are some build plans for you! Word of caution, USE the Rapid Fuse wood glue by DAP. It is like super glue for wood, and I would not have had the patinence to complete this project with out it!

NOTE: All of these boards are made from paint sticks! The majority of them are standard width, the smaller boards you will notice in the build plans are the paint sticks cut in half. BE careful when you cut these! )

Now for the finishing touches….

Sidenote… Notice that there is a shocking lack of stain under my nails! Aren’t I FANCY ?

In the event you are wondering what on earth the metal ribbon is… it is “perforated metal hanging straps” you can find it in the plumbing section of the Home Depot. Word of caution, the ends of this can be quite sharp, I would not suggest handing this over to someone who might struggle with point objects.

In order to attach the bow, I drilled a 1/4″ hole in the center of my middle/top board.

I then fed the bolt through the hole, and secured it in place with the accompanying nut. Now because I am a ridiculous over acheiver, I added a cute little logo to the outside of my crate, and it is made out of… You guessed it! Paint Sticks! I glued the two boards together using the Rapid Fuse and it worked like a charm!