First things first, I  needed a workspace that would not only accommodate my new “x-carve”,  but  I also wanted to start to get acquainted with my new tool.  What better way to do that then to build it a kick *ss shrine that would hold all of it’s gadgets, and  let me start learning how to use it!?  So today,  I am showing you how I pulled together a awesome Inventables workstation out of OLD CABINETS!!!

Let’s dive in, shall we?  I started with these two old cabinets I inherited from a old school renovation.

 I needed to create enough space so that the X-Carve would have plenty of space,  so I put the two cabinets back to back.  That created enough width,  but I still needed length… so  I went into my OLD garage and pulled out a cabinet I had made for my previous shop.  It would be perfect for the end cap of the “cart” I was making, plus it had plenty of storage for all the accessories  you can purchase for your X-Carve!

(In case you were wondering, yes, I did need to modify the depth of one of the cabinets in order for the two  teal color cabinets to meet the same width as the end cap cabinet. See image below.) 

Next, I wanted this  X-Carve workstation to be mobile. So with some help I flipped this thing over and added some beefy castors.

Next up counter top!  If you are interested in how I make my counter tops I go into more detail on that here. Now is the fun part!  Really  tricking it out with features specific for the X-Carve. With the X-Carve  you can cut into sheets of plywood, MDF. acrylic, metal, plastic, corian…  you get the picture. (Want to see what else it can cut? Click here!)  It can cut a TON of different materials, so I decided to build a shelf that would house all my specialty materials!  I just made sure to build my counter top was large enough that is would over hang on one side giving me enough space to mount my materials shelf.  Next  up?   The X-Carve is controlled by computer, so NATURALLY  my X-Carve table NEEDED a place that would house my computer… So I took out one of the drawers……AND modified it to fit my computer!  I just gave it a flat surface that I could easily access, and beefed up it’s drawer glides.

Another feature the X-Carve has is a dust collection arm!  You just hook it up to a shop vac and you are good to go!  So NATURALLY I wanted to have my shop vac built into my table… naturally. So I took out some shelving, drilled some holes for access and airflow and this puppy was ready! 

That  just about does it for the logistics… now for the fun part!  Like I said, this was my first attempt at using the X-Carve,  I wanted to start simple,  because lets face it, I had no clue what I was doing!  So I hopped on EASEL. Easel is a FREE program you can use to easily design just about anything you can imagine! Seriously,  head on over and see what you can design in just a few minutes of playing around.  For my first project I appropriately decided to finish up my Inventables X-Carve table with something straight up pretty!

For the finishing touch I added this beauty! It was amazing how simple it was to design and I was blown away at the precision and detail this machine can produce!  I was able to create the crowning jewel of this table in a little over an hour… of the machine doing the work for me! NICE.  

So without any further ado, I give you the beginning of a beautiful relationship  between my X-Carve and I!!!

My “Inventables” workshop table. 

Doesn’t that sign  just complete this project!??! I simply stained it, and mounted it with some black hardware and this sign steals the show!  I can’t wait to start and use this thing EVERYWHERE!  Until then,  check out the rest of this beauty.

 Plenty of storage for accessories, and projects, and you can see the far end where I made the material storage. I simply added a strap of thick elastic and attached it with screws and washers. Its easy to get materials out, but yet they won’t fall out.  win/win

Now, remember how this island was created by putting two cabinets back to back?  There is still plenty of storage on the other side too! Booyah! Well,  there you have it folks.  I have a new tool,  which always makes me happy,  an organized space to use it.. and my brain is straight up swimming with fun new ways to use this things, so stay tuned! You aren’t going to want to miss it!

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Workshop Table for X-Carve (Using OLD cabinets!) appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I had an extra bag of $5 concrete laying in the garage, and when I saw THIS bathroom vanity from Tasha at Designer Trapped in a Lawyer’s Body, it hit me! I don’t know why, but I decided to try and turn not only the countertop, but the backsplash and the entire back wall in concrete. So, I started out following Tasha’s directions. She has a great tutorial, but I had to do a few things differently. To start with, I couldn’t find any concrete that wasn’t filled with rocks. So, I sifted out the rocks. If you are going to do an overlay, the rocks won’t work. Make sure to wear a dust mask and goggles, this part is dusty!

Then, to get a more grey color, as opposed to the tan natural color of concrete, I added some of this concrete color. The easiest way to use this concrete color mix is to mix it in the water first (just like the directions say), otherwise you’ll waste a lot of time trying to work the color through uniformly. I made sure to measure the concrete to water ratio, so I would get a uniform color each time I mixed some new concrete. This whole project took less than a bag of concrete, but you do have to work fast so it doesn’t dry out, or mix a little at a time.

I started by trying to add the concrete directly to the top, but the laminate top had a little “bubble” in it and wouldn’t lay flat. So, I pulled it off. It was much easier to get the concrete to lay on the particle board than on the laminate top. The particle board also wasn’t as slick, so I got a better “grip”.

I did the countertop just like Tasha suggested, but when I got to the backsplash and wall, I started to have trouble. The best way I could find was to hold the concrete in my hand and just sort of rub it in, going in circular motion and being careful not to rub off the concrete already on. It would be a much better idea to wear gloves :).

After the first layer, it was looking like this.

Once I got one layer on, and let it dry, I started with the second. This was the hardest, because if I wasn’t careful, it would “pull” the first layer off. It took getting just the right consistency and lots of practice.

The great thing about concrete is, that it cleans up really nicely and easily. So, don’t worry so much about making a mess – I certainly made a huge one. But, clean up really is a breeze. A little tip is get up any big chunks while it’s still wet, but when the thin layers dry, it wipes off very easily with a dry cloth.

For the third layer, I went very, very thin. Almost like a water and scraped it on. Since the wall and backsplash are vertical, I had to keep moving until the concrete no longer dripped. I poured it onto the countertop and then scrapped it up the wall. This helped to fill in any gaps and even it out a little.

I used one of these concrete smoother tools (official name) to smooth it all out.

Once I was happy with the way it looked, I sealed it with a concrete sealer.

Then, after sealing, I used about 3 coats of Polycrylic on top to really seal it all in, and give it a nice shiny, un-chipable surface.

I only used the paint like Polycrylic on the countertop and backsplash. For the wall, I used the spray on polyurethane. I figure it wouldn’t have the same sort of traffic on the wall as I would in the middle area, and the spray paint is cheaper and easier.

That’s pretty much it! I got this unique, masculine feature for under $25. The concrete was around $5, the color around $5 and I spent about $15 on Polycrylic and spray paint. I used leftover concrete sealer – it was such a small amount. I still have to finish painting the rest of the room and next week I’m going to attempt to lay porcelain tile! I’m a little nervous.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Thanks Corey, for having me back and head over to my blog to see my other concrete project HERE. It’s becoming my new favorite medium!

April-Uncookie Cutter

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WELCOME April, and take it away….

Hi, I’m April from Uncookie Cutter.  I am so excited to be contributing here at Sawdust 2 Stitches.  Corey has been an idol of mine for awhile, so getting to work with her is a treat. I’m here to share my modern dining chair upcycle.

A little about me…In January of this year, my husband and I packed up our two kids and three dogs and moved from Virginia to small town Oklahoma.  I told my Realtor I wanted a new house in a new neighborhood.  As it turned out, we couldn’t find one that we really feel in love with–there always seemed to be something missing.  Then, on a whim, our Realtor showed us what she described as a very “UncookieCutter” house and after a million inspections and with a bit of fear, we decided to go for it.  We loved the layout,  the huge yard and the fact that we could all bike right down the road to the elementary school. However, it needed a lot of work, so I started UncookieCutter to document our journey here trying to make this house a home.

For the past couple of months I’ve been working in the dining room.  I upcycled an old piece of wood into a hanging shelf and then built my concrete top table, inspired by Restoration Hardware.  Everything was going so well until I realized how expensive dining chairs were.  I have never bought a traditional dining set, we’ve been eating off of a cheap 4 person set for years.  We could never have people over for dinner, because we had nowhere to sit.  The size of our dining room won’t allow for much more than a 8 person table, so that’s what I built.  I needed six side chairs.  I wanted them to not have fabric (remember the kids and dogs I mentioned?) and I wanted them to look a little modern, funky and fit with a table with a concrete top.  So I searched and found THESE chairs, which I thought were beautiful.

However, these chairs cost $168 a piece.  That would’ve cost me over $1,000 plus the cost of the end chairs.  I floated this by my husband, who just laughed.  Rude.  Anyway, I had to come up with another idea.

So I honestly thought about making chairs, but a good chair has a slight backwards lean to it and unfortunately I don’t have the saw to make cuts like that.  So, I needed to find some old chairs with solid bases and, low and behold, after a LOT of searching, I found some!  I couldn’t believe it, but a library was closing in a nearby, even smaller, town and I grabbed one to bring home and see what I could do with it.  I turned it into a chair that was similar to the one I wanted, but actually fit in the space better and cost about $20 per chair, making it $120 for six.  Score!

The fabric was in pretty bad shape, but the frame seemed strong, so I got to work ripping the fabric off.

Once I had all the fabric off and removed all the zillion or so staples, I sanded the whole frame down and filled the staple holes with stain-able and sand-able wood filler.  Then more sanding until they were all smooth.

Next, I had to make the seat for the chair. I took some craft paper and made a rough template a little bigger than I wanted it.

I cut one board template with my circular saw and used that template to cut out the rest, but left a little extra to allow for slight changes from chair to chair.

Like I said, I cut the boards too big on purpose, but worked with my jigsaw until they fit right into the back of the chair, then I traced each board so that I could cut the seat to match up to the frame exactly.

I bought some very pretty “craft board” in the lumber section, but I think any plywood would work.  This was made from real wood and I love the grain it shows.  Now I had to figure out how to make the top piece for the chair back.  Most chairs have a curved back to make them a little more comfortable.  Like I mentioned before, I don’t have too many fancy power tools, but I still wanted to bend the back a little bit. My father in law was visiting as I was trying to figure it out, and he told me about a presentation he once saw where they soaked the boards in water and then bent them, so I decided to give that a shot.

I cut the pieces down to size and then put them in a pan of water.  

Yes, I realized I should not leave my jig in water, I moved it and replaced it with a flower pot, but forgot to take a picture of that :).   I left it soaking in the water for a day or more.  Then I took it out and “molded” it to the top of the chairs with clamps. 

Once I got it just so, I let it sit out in the sun until it was completely dry.

I learned a couple of things trying to “bend” wood.  First, it has to be soaked all the way through or it will crack.  This will take at least a day for this size board.  Next, you have to let it dry in the mold completely or it will loose it’s shape when you take it off to stain.  And lastly, if you look at the pic above, I should have tried to make the grain of the board run horizontal instead of vertical.  I did it this way because I wanted to use every piece of the board, and it worked, but I did crack a couple and I think they would not have cracked had I gone the other way with it.

Once it was nice and dry I went ahead and popped it off to be painted.

Now that the chairs were stripped, filled and sanded and both of the seats and backboards were cut out and “molded” I was ready to paint.  I wanted the chair part to look like metal, and I’ve always been impressed with Rustoleum Metallic spray paints, but since I had six chairs and a small budget, I decided to stain them with some leftover stain and then spray paint them. So I started by staining them with Minwax Ebony.

Then I spray painted them all with Rustoleum Flat Iron. I then put a couple of coats of spray poly on.

Next, I painted the seats and backs with one light coat of Minwax Special walnut to start

When the stain was all dry,  I mixed a small mixture of leftover white trim paint with water (about 50/50 mix) and used a paper towel to lightly rub it over and blend it in.  Then 3 coats of polyurethane.

It worked better to finish the back of the backboard piece and leave the front unfinished for now.  Then I re-clamped it onto the chair, and then countersunk some screws into the board and attached it to the chair.

I waited to finish it so that I could sand down the holes without messing up the stain.  Once it was attached,  I went ahead and finished the front side.

The last thing I did before bringing them in was I glued the seats to the chairs.

Once they were inside, I added these feet.  I tried a couple of different furniture feet and these were the only ones that slid nicely, didn’t fall off and didn’t scratch my floors.

Now they really were done!  I got them all set up with my table, which you can see all the details on that HERE.

So, instead of spending over a grand, I spent about $120 on boards, stain and spray paint to upcycle these old chairs.

That was it!  And they are actually pretty comfortable.  I’d love for you to visit me over on UncookieCutter or follow me on social media.  A big, huge thank you to Corey for asking me to guest host and I’ll be back soon for some more!

April – Uncookie Cutter

The post Modern Chair UpCycle appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all!  I am particularly excited about today’s post. First reason being, it involved all free materials!  There is something about the challenge of  taking a roadside rescue, and turning it into something beautiful and functional…  It  just  gets me pumped!  Second reason? I found a new paint sprayer that I am in LOVE with.  It  made short order of this project, and what is even better?  You have a chance to WIN one of these time saving champs!  Make sure you enter at the bottom of the post!

That being said,  I am excited to partner up with HomeRight on this sponsored  project,  it is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)

So let’s dive in, shall we?   I was out hitting some garage sales a few weeks ago, that’s when I saw  “it”.   Peaking out behind a car I saw some turned table legs just laying on the ground!  I jumped out of the car and sure enough it was a full table,  taken apart leaning against a tree.   There was a nice gentleman staring at me like  I was crazy ( I basically jumped out of the car while it was still in motion) Through  brief conversation, he said it was free…  haha.  If he thought I was crazy before,  I left little room to wonder with the level of enthusiasm  I showed as I collected the pieces to the table.  Honestly, I think I may have embarrassed my friend who was with me.

Moving on.  I got it home and assessed the damage. It was definitely in rough shape, but it wasn’t anything some wood filler, tools, and bit of paint couldn’t fix!

The Base:

This table was a pub height table, and was capable of expanding, but the leaf was missing).  Which was fine, I planned on making my own top.  For the legs, I was going to need to shorten them.  I cut off the  bottom end, so that I would be able to use the existing top hardware.  I just cut it off with a miter saw.

After the legs were cut down, I  started  the sanding process. (Plus, I had a little help… ) It was at this point that I filled all the cracks (from water damage) with wood filler.  Then I sanded them until all evidence of a cracks were gone.  I knew I was going to be painting the legs, so I did NOT need to sand until I got to bare wood.  I simply needed to scuff up the surface enough that is was smooth and “dull” so that the primer could properly adhere.

Next I removed all the aprons and hardware from the underside of the tabletop. I wanted to be able to use the aprons and corner supports. Once I had removed them, I reassembled the base of the table, and added a few 2×4’s  for support.

Once assembled you are ready to prime!   I usually  dread priming,  it just one of those unsatisfying, necessary steps.  Well, this was my first attempt using primer in my HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer and it was a breeze.  I just used a standard Primer.

When using a sprayer you just need to make sure your paint is the right consistency.  They give you this handy little “viscosity cup” that helps you get your primer to the right consistency by merely adding water.

Do you realize by merely adding water to ANY  paint color you can create your very own spray paint ??! =MIND BLOWN

Moving on, once you  have loaded up your sprayer, you simply plug in and start spraying! (You heard right,  you do NOT need to hook it up to an air compressor,  Hallelujah!)

When spraying the primer, do so just as you would spray paint. Light, multiple coats, as opposed to one heavy layer.

Once the primer dries, I like to go over the entire surface with a very fine grit sandpaper, or steel wool. Wipe down with a damp cloth and allow to dry before applying paint.

(Again, prep your paint for the sprayer.)   The coverage is pretty awesome, and I did one light coat, and was pretty much done.

Not a single brushstroke!  Love it, and I completed the top coat in about 10 mins.  Serious.

That is a wrap on the table legs… on to the table top!

The Table Top:

I was digging my recycled base, and wanted to keeping rolling with that idea.  Lucky for me my Husband found these super beefy boards that were in really ROUGH condition.  They were PERFECT!  I ended up turning my garage into a lumber mill for the day, and spent some time running them through the planer, and even made use of a my table saw to get them up to par! However, it was all worth it, they turned out beautiful.

In order to make the top, I drilled pocket holes on the underside of the boards.  Pocket holes are a great way to join boards together without having visible holes. Fastening it together is normally enough to hold it, but seeing as this would be a kitchen table, I wanted to seal all the gaps, so I added a little bit of wood glue to the sides before securing with pocket hole screws.

Once I had my slab assembled, I filled any remaining cracks with wood filler and sanded the crap out of it. (FYI make sure if you use an oribtal sander, you follow up with a finish sander or hand sand in the direction of the wood grain.  (This will prevent it from looking like a UFO landed on your stained table top.)  Once the slab is sanded you are ready for stain and poly!

Can I just tell you how much I love this traditional farmhouse table coupled with a more industrial style chair?   The best part?  The table was FREE all recycled materials and leftover supplies!  Score!

Ok, now for the even better part… free stuff for you! Make sure you  follow the instructions below to enter into the drawing for the

Enter here for your chance to WIN a HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer!

HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer!

Take Luck,

Corey
HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer

The post How to: Recycled and reclaimed Farmhouse Table. appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I wish I had a decent picture of the original! I do however have  a few process pictures, just to give you a better idea

of the progress made. See the yellow post ?  All the dark brown you see was originally  THAT color. Unfortunately, I do not have a blog post for that one…  It happened within days of moving in…  Back before “Sawdust 2 Stitches” was around.

Brief synopsis: Polyshades are awesome,  I used it on ALL the hand rails.  I also spray painted all the mounting hardware with Rust-o-leum “Oil Rubbed Bronze”.

Moving on.   I then add some character by adding “Board and Batten” to the stair well.   You can see the full tutorial HERE.

I  continued the board and batten up the entire staircase and through the landing as well.

Next on the agenda ?  The lighting, or more accurately the LACK of lighting. This project was NOT an easy task, but  I am in love with the way it turned out! Believe it or not, this fixture is made of wood (obviously), PVC pipe,  Dollar Tree vases and Ikea lamp cords.  You can get more details HERE!

Last  thing that needed to be addressed ?  The large blank wall.  It was MASSIVE and so, so, empty…  Anything I could find that was large enough was REALLY expensive; and truth be told, I didn’t really love anything I found.

I decided I wanted to do a gallery wall. However, I did not want it full of smaller frames with images you would not be able to see! I envisioned large black and white architecture images…  You know what is NOT cheap large art prints.

You know what is cheap ? Poster Board!

I grabbed some black  and white poster board, and charcoal pencils, and went to town! (If this is intimidating,  LOOK HERE for some easy alternatives!)

   That solved the issue of  the art work.  Now I needed  BIG frames.  You know what is expensive ?  Large custom frames. You know what is cheap?  1×2″ boards!

I can show you how to make  your own  rustic custom frames HERE!

   For less than $20, I made all the frames and the artwork.  Booyah!

 That  pretty  much sums it up!  A little bit of money and a lot of elbow grease go a long way!     

Thanks for stopping by!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Stair Well Over Haul appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Ceiling Fan Makeover

So, let’s dive into this ceiling fan makeover.   First step?  Remove that sucker from the ceiling. (Unfortunately, all fans are going to vary slightly, so I can’t help much with that part.)  Once the fan was down,  I decided to remove, and refinish the blades first.

 I didn’t really like anything about the fan,  even down to the shape of the fan blades.  So, I took matters into my own hands. I drew out the new shape on the blades.

So I took a jigsaw and chopped off the tips.

I used a sander to round out the edges.  While I had the sander, I sanded off the finish and prepped it for a new one!

I used a stain on the fan blades.   You can use a traditional  stain, or you can use a stain/poly blend.

I had to disassemble the entire fan in order to refinish it.  The  one  suggestion I would strongly  caution is take pictures of the process!  It may help when you put it back together.

Once disassembled I used a foam sand block to scuff up all the metal pieces. ( You will need to have them scuffed up for the spray paint to adhere.)

When prepping for paint, I needed to tape off the bulb socket to prevent paint from getting in the sockets.

Thoroughly wipe down all pieces and lay them out for painting.  Once it is all laid out,  I was ready to paint!  I used  Oil Rubbed Bronze Metallic Spray Paint by Rustoleum.  Remember  to use several light coats, as opposed to one heavy coat.  It will harden much quicker, and produce a much more even finish,  without drip marks. If you feel like you need a little more direction,  here is another tutorial where I showed how to refinish a light fixture .

Once all pieces are dry, it was time to re-assemble.  Now might be an ideal time to pull out the pictures of the disassemble  process.

  There,  that finish is much more fitting for my space.

   The last thing it needed was new glass shades. The old ones were very dated.   This one simple change drastically improved the whole fan.  I used  “seeded”  glass shades. I found mine at Lowes for $3.98 a piece. Not too shabby!

  I don’t know about you, but I think it was a night and day difference, once I swapped out the shades. Ta-da !

So let’s break it down.:

Spray Paint                   $5.97

Glass Shades (x4)       $3.98

Stain                               $0    (  I had some on hand from a previous project)

For a little under         $22.00 

I was able to  completely  update dated, somewhat ugly ceiling fan .  So,  look up.  Do you have an ceiling fans that could use and update ?

Take luck,

Corey

The post Ceiling Fan Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Supplies  Used

• 1×4’s
• Wood Glue
• Sand Paper
•  Minwax Stain
• Polyurethane
• Steel Wool
•  Metallic  Spray  Paint

Tools Suggested

• Mitre Saw
•  Jigsaw
•  Sander
•   Clamps
• Allen Wrench
• Drill with Phillips bit

 I started by taking the entire set apart.  ( Mine required an allen wrench, and a phillips screwdriver.)

Once I had everything taken apart,  I  cut enough 1×4’s to match the table tops, dimensions. (Repeated likewise for the stool seats.)

After I had all the wood cut,  I proceeded to glue the pieces together.  (Repeat for Seats)

While the glue  dried I  used clamps to hold the pieces snuggly together. (Repeat for Seats)

After the glue had completely  dried  I  used the original  table top  to trace the dimensions on the newly made wood slab. (Repeat for Seats)

Using a  jigsaw I  cut out traced circle. (Repeat on Seats)

As  hard as I tried to make  this a flawless circle, it is riddled with imperfections.  I used a sander to camouflage  said mistakes.  Also,  there where  small ridges where the boards met,   by sanding the entire surface and edges  it  eliminated  most of the problem spots. (Repeat on Seats)

After creating a smooth surface with a  sander I proceeded to stain. (Repeat for Seats)

Next part of this project was aging  metal.  To do this I  used sander!  Sanding a round surface was rather tedious work,  but it  created the look  I was trying to achieve. (Make sure you wear proper safety  glasses. )

  Once the metal is sanded, it is prepped for spray paint.  I DID NOT  coat the metal.  I just lightly dusted them with a metallic spray paint.  After the  paint dried,  I  used steel wool  and rubbed down all of the metal. It  gave it an old look and I was able to eliminate any areas that look uneven or blotchy.

All that was left was to reassemble  it  again!

 Ta-Da!

Close up.

 Let’s break it down:

Table and Chair- $5.00

1×4’s – $6.00

wood glue- $0   (on hand)

stain and poly – $0  (on hand)

Spray Paint- $0 ( on hand)

Total Invested      $11.00

SOLD                      $150.00 !

Profit           $139!  BOOYAH

 Thanks for reading!
Corey

The post Pub Table Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I went through and taped the interior lip, as well as where the cabinets meet the wall.

I used Zinsser Primer 1-2-3,  I first painted the cracks and edges with a good paint brush. Immediately after use the foam rollers on the large surface areas.  (I love these rollers, they are cheap and I have had great results, with no streaks! )

When  painting/priming you will want  to work in small sections.  For example,  don’t go through and do all your cracks, and joints, and then all your roller painting. Instead,  follow up with the roller  shortly  after you use the brush,  this will create a consistent finish.  Be warned primer does dry very quickly.

While your cabinet bases are drying,  you can start on your doors.  I had my doors set up in the garage, and the kitchen.  I set them on top of  bins so that they would be elevated and I would easily  be able to paint the edges.

PAINTING TIME!

Repeat the same steps from priming.  I did do 2 coats of paint as well,  make sure you sand inbetween coats.  You do not need to sand after final coat.

So this is your itinerary:

1. Primer
(Allow dry time,  if doing doors flip over and repeat)
2. Sand/Wipe Down
3. Primer
(Allow dry time,  if doing doors flip over and repeat)
4. Sand/Wipe Down
5. Paint
(Allow dry time,  if doing doors flip over and repeat)
6. Sand/Wipe Down
7. Paint
(Allow dry time,  if doing doors flip over and repeat )

8. Stand Back and admire!

The post Cabinet Makeover Part 2 appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.