The beginning of the school year is always a personal wake up call to me in regard to our household organization.  Nothing like 6 a.m. alarms and missing shoes to make you realize the disorder of your kid’s closet. There’s really nothing quite like a frantic hunt for matching socks and clean underwear to kick my butt in gear. I am happy to report this year I put an end to the morning madness and I am thrilled to be teaming up with DAP to bring  you my “Kids Closet Makeover”. 

*This post is sponsored by DAP and does contain affiliate links.

What I used:

Kids Closet Makeover

Alright, let’s dive in and see what we are working with. Here it is, my kids closet. As you can see it came complete with the trademark builder grade wire shelving. I utilized as much hanging space as possible, but slowly random pieces of furniture slowly migrated into the closet giving false hopes of order…

Where to begin? Time to clear everything out and really see what we are working with. After emptying the contents of the closet I was amazed how much bigger it felt when the floor was clear. *Note to self, do not line the bottom of the closet with bins and totes after this Kids Closet Makeover.*

Remove Existing Closet Shelving

Now that the closet is empty it’s time to take it one step further. I needed a blank canvas; which means the wire shelving has got to go! Removing wire shelving is a fairly straight forward process. Actually, I simply handed my 10 year old son a drill and he figured it out all on his own.

If he can do it, so can you! Contractors use all sorts of securing methods, odds are they probably use mollies. No worries, when you remove the brackets and mollies they will leave sizable holes, but no worries that is an easy fix!

Repair and Fill Holes

After all the shelves are removed it is time to repair the damages. I promised it was an easy fix and I make good on my promises. All that is needed to repair the many holes left behind is some DAP DryDex Spackling.

Rough Surfaces

I have several methods I use when filling holes. In this case I am filling holes on a very textured surface. When I have a textured surface I try to apply the spackling directly into the hole using my finger. After applying the spackling I use my finger tip to smooth out the spackling while trying to mimic the wall texture. This particular spackling is perfect for this application because it won’t shrink or crack! Added Bonus: It has a built in timer, it goes on pink and turns white when it is dry.

Smooth Surfaces

When repairing smooth surfaces I apply DryDex Sparkling more liberally, knowing that I will sand the surface to get a smooth, perfect match.

Assemble Ikea furniture (The BEST way.)

Now that everything has been removed, it is time to add more function and hopefully a little bit of aesthetic qualities. If you have been following my DIY journey then you KNOW I normally build everything. Well, today I am going to switch things up and keep you on your toes! For the kids closet makeover I opted to utilize some IKEA options. I selected the “Brimnes 3-Drawer Dresser” along with (x2) “Billy Bookcase“.

Don’t get me wrong, I I don’t have anything against IKEA. They create affordable furniture options that can fit nearly any budget, however when it comes to stability they simply aren’t as rugged as homemade. However, I have a little trick that will give these inexpensive Ikea pieces some added strength.

IKEA furniture utilizes locking bolts and wooden dowels to joint their furniture. Well, in the shop I always glue up my furniture, it only makes sense that I would give the same advantage to pre made furniture. I suggest using DAP Weldwood on all of the dowel rods and along any of the exposed MDF joints. Apart from this one added step, follow the IKEA assembly manuals as directed.

Custom Shelves

At this point we have two tall thin IKEA bookcases, a dresser and an old bookcase. All of these components by themselves are fine, but it felt a little disconnected. However, what if we were to create some simple custom shelving that would make the bookcases look like built-ins while also matching the old bookcase?! Sounds like a winning idea, right?

Cut Shelving

Let’s get started. First, I measured the depth and the length of my desired shelves. I opted to make my shelf hang about an inch past my book cases. ( I cut my shelves 13′ wide, and measured from wall-to-wall for my length dimension.)

I wanted my shelving to have a nice finished edge. In order to accomplish this I banded the front edge of my plywood. If you are interested in learning more about applying edge banding you can check out my tutorial here.

After banding the front edge I was ready for the fun part! Adding character to the space. A great way to make any furniture piece look custom is by adding some decorative molding. In this case I wanted to mimic the trim work on my existing bookcase so that it would look cohesive.

Support Closet Shelving

The first thing I needed to add was a primed 1×2″. The 1×2 would not only duplicate the trim on the bookcase it would also add support to the shelf edge. One of my favorite shop hacks is using DAP Weldwood and Dap RapidFuse in a morse code style application. The combination is remarkable. The RapidFuse holds instantly (within 30 SECONDS) and the Weldwood Wood Glue will cure and create a permanent continuous point of contact.

Add Decorative Trim

Next up? Decorative trim. I love using PVC “inside corner molding” to add a little bit interest. It is easy to work with, reasonably priced, and paint-able. Winning! Another great thing about PVC is how easy it is to install. It is flexible and in my experience doesn’t require fasteners. I have used it for many applications, and my method of choice is Alex Plus caulk. Yup, it works great as an adhesive and I seals the edges for a perfect finish!

Paint

All the walls are repaired and ready for a fresh start . All the bookcases are assembled and ready to be installed. The custom shelves are built and ready for their finish… it’s time to paint! I could have easily painted the room first, but opted to wait until all my pieces were ready so I could paint them all at the same time.

I essentially used the closet as a spray shelter to paint not only the room itself, but also my shelves, and give my old bookcase a fresh coat of paint.

Now, you may be wondering if my old book case will match my new IKEA dressers and bookcases? Valid question. I definitely wanted everything to match seamlessly and give the appearance of custom built-ins. In order to accomplish this I simply had Sherwin Williams color match my Ikea furniture. Easy peasy.

Bring In the Units

This is my favorite part, when you start to put things back together instead of tearing things apart! After the paint was dry I brought my bookcases and dresser back in and started installing. All of the IKEA furniture I purchased comes with brackets to secure the pieces to the wall.

Combine Dresser and Book Case

Do you ever have one of those ideas that makes you feel super smart. This idea just so happens to be one of mine. As I previously mentioned, I had an existing bookcase that received a makeover nearly 9 years ago. Well, that bookcase has moved all over the country and ended up in the back of my kids closet. Instead of kicking it to the curb I decided to reuse it in the kids closet makeover.

The bookcase was in good condition and a really great size. After looking around IKEA I ultimately found the Bimnes dresser that had the perfect dimensions to be a suitable base for my bookcase. When you combine the two it becomes a super functional show stopper!

After properly securing the dresser to the wall I stacked my bookcase atop the dresser. Using screws I drilled through the interior top of the dresser into the base of the bookcase. The goal is to have the bookcase permanently affixed to the top of the dresser. After screwing the two pieces together, I then practiced additional caution and secured the upper bookcase to the wall as well.

Install Shelves

Time to install those gorgeous shelves we made! I used a very basic support to hold up the shelves. If you want more details on how to install this type of shelf you can read my full tutorial here.

My biggest recommendation for this step is to hide the eyesores. In this case the screws stood out like a sore thumb(s). This is a simple fix, I used “DAP Premium Wood Filler” to quickly fill the holes. Thankfully it dries fast and doesn’t shrink allowing for sanding and painting shortly thereafter.

Unify with Caulk

After the supports are installed, and holes are filled and sanded it is time to add the shelf! The supports will create a sturdy base for the shelf, but as an added measure of precaution I also used 1 1/2″ screws to drive through the top of the shelves and into the supports below.

I truly and deeply feel that this shelf takes the random IKEA pieces and unifies them into a custom kids closet. The last thing needed to really create a custom built-in feel is CAULK. Yes, I have said it before and I will say it again, caulk is a stinking miracle worker! It is the magic eraser of the DIY world. Just a small bead of caulk will hide the most unseemly gaps.

As you may know I like to work fast pace so I always opt for “DAP’s AlexFlex”, it’s flexible with a quick dry time allowing for paint in just 30 minutes. Yes please!

Add Clothing Rods

Now that we have the framework for a beautiful closet it is time to add rods. One would think that the rods would be the most simple of tasks. In reality I spent quite a bit of time brainstorming possibilities. Clothing racks hold a lot of clothing weight not to mention the occasional weight of children competing in their own personal Olympics .

While it is ideal to secure anything that will hold significant weight into studs, sometimes that is not an option. After considering a lot of options I ultimately chose to use toggle bolts and I do NOT regret it! They were perfect for this application.

I used toggle bolts on the drywall and on the inside brackets I secured the rods directly into the “Billy Bookcases” with zero problems.

As far as rods… they come in many sizes and materials. However, if you have the option I would suggest using wood simply because they are easier to cut to size. I used metal ones which are easy to cut, but you do need to have a blade that is intended for cutting metal. (Or so it is suggested.)

Add Decorative Baskets

My last suggestion would be adding decorative baskets.  Not only will this bring in aesthetically pleasing uniformity, it will also help with organization! In the design world we lovingly  refer to this as “form meeting function”.   While the “Billy Bookcases” do provide plenty of  sectioned storage, I needed place for hats, socks, underwear etc…  Adding baskets was the perfect solution and added a ton of character to the space. 

 I found that finding baskets to fit the bookcase was a little trickier than I had hoped.  So I did a little research and tried out a few options.   Here are a few that worked well. 

•  Two-Tone Basket with Leather Detailing
• “Threshold Could Rope Basket” Target Baskets (No longer available.)
• Gray Baskets w/ Leather Detailing

Optional Additions*

Okay, okay, I promise I am almost done. I made two last minute tweaks and I’m sharing them only because I highly recommend them. if you noticed earlier the “Brimnes Dresser” has an odd-man-out glass panel on the top drawer. I didn’t love it, so I scuffed it up, primed and painted it. No big deal. The last adjustment I made was the dresser pulls. They originally came with some less than appealing white pulls. We can do better! I swapped out the white for these fun new black drawer pulls.

Enjoy Form Meeting Function

Okay, NOW it’s time. It’s time to take back the closet and HOPEFULLY regain as much peace as you possibly can during your early morning run for the bus.

Who would have ever thought that just a few pieces of IKEA furniture and a hand-me-down dresser had so much potential!

Hopefully this helps you on your DIY journey. However,  if you aren’t ready to tackle your closet just yet, make sure you pin the image below to your Pinterest boards for safe keeping!    Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey 

The post Kids Closet Makeover (Using IKEA Furniture) appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Our back patio was a little lack-luster and needed some new life. It’s not a huge patio so whatever I added needed to have a small footprint and still pack a punch. Thus the plans for the Vertical Wall Planter were born. Enjoy!

Step 1. Prep Materials

Before I get too far into the building process I prefer to prep all of my boards in advance. Using a miter saw I cut all the boards to proper length and then use an orbital sander to achieve a smooth finish.

Using a hacksaw or saw and blade intended for metal use cut ¾” metal conduit. If desired apply a lacquer based paint intended for metal.

Step 2. Build Large Crate 

Using a pocket hole jig drill pocket holes into both ends of the Crate Sides.

Using the pocket screws secure the Crate Sides to the (Crate Front and Back).  Do this for both sides, creating a rectangle. Repeat this process until (x3) rectangular structures are assembled. Repeat this process three times in order to create three Large Crates.

Step 3. Build Planter Boxes

Using a pocket hole jig drill pocket holes along the edge of the (Planter Sides). Using these holes secure the (Planter Sides) to the (Planter Front).

Using Pocket holes attach the (Planter Back) to both (Planter Sides) creating a rectangle.

Using pocket holes fasten the (Bottom Slats) to the interior base of the newly constructed (Planter Box).  

Step 4. Build Planter Ledges 

We are down to the easy stuff now folks, stick with me!  For the next component of the build we will be incorporating some small ledges. 

The (Ledges) consist of only three boards, the Shelf, the Ledge, and the Back Support. Using stainless steel pocket holes attach the Back Support to the top back of the Shelf, and secure the Ledge to the front of the Shelf for added support. Repeat this process to create a total of three Planter Ledges.

Step 5. Planter Ring Mounts

Let’s add some character to this beast!  I used six 6in.Vigoro Planter Rings for this design and I LOVE them.  The contrast of the matte black against the Olympic Elite “American Chestnut” makes my heart skip a beat!

The Planter Ring Mounts, are fairly simple component.  To create the Planter Ring Mount simply drill pocket holes along the back sides of the board (later used for installation) and screw the rings to the front of the Planter Ring Mount board.

Step 6. Posts

We are now ready to prep our Posts for the wall planter install. Before we begin installing take a few extra minutes to mark the back of the (x4) Posts with the designated dimensions for Crate, Planter, Ledge, Ring Mounts, and Rods. 

One last step before I could assemble this beast.  I needed to add holes to house the electrical conduit Bars. Using a drill, and a forstner bit I drilled 1” deep coordinating holes that would hold the Rods in place.  

Step 7. Assembly

When assembling start with one side of the structure and work your way across. I recommend using a good wood glue when assembling, in addition to the recommended fasteners.

FIRST place your Rods(conduit) into place. After the rods are in positioned in the pre-drilled holes install the “Small Planter Box” (Step 3) the“Shelf” (Step 4) and the “Planter Ring Mounts” (Step 5). 

Once the first section is installed, move onto the second section repeating the above process.

Alright, this may come as a shock, but you will need to repeat this process yet again for the last and final section of the planter.

Once all of the Bars, Planter Boxes, Ledges, and Ring Mounts as installed you flip the entire unit over fasten the Large Crates to the base the Posts using 2” exterior screws.

Step 8. Planter Prep

This wall planter project was not designed to be a free-standing piece. It is intended to be secured to a wall for further stability.  I would suggest using a minimum of 5 anchor points.  

I used the “Plant Ring Mounts” and the interior of the “Large Crates” at the base as my anchor points using 2 ½ inch, ¼” concrete screw anchors or something comparable.  The fasteners necessary will differ based on your wall material stucco, brick, stud etc. This project was not designed to be a free-standing piece. It is intended to be secured to a wall for further stability.  I would suggest using a minimum of 5 anchor points.

The post Wall Planter appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

When designing my Grandma’s florist studio, I was trying to make the space as economical and as versatile as possible. I wasn’t entirely certain how much space she would need, and what drawer sizes would be optimal. So, I tried to plan for ANY scenario. After a lot of brainstorming I designed this IKEA Trofast Bin Base Unit. By utilizing bins  it would allow her to swap out and rearrange  the bucket sizes, AND  I it would also accomodate shelves that she could use if she needed/preferred.

To bring this build to life, I teamed up with the great folks at DAP!

This build is an inexpensive and quick alternative to building a traditional dresser, not to mention the versatility that is offers is unparalleled for the price.  (Can I also add, that this may be the classiest use of plastic  bins I have ever seen!)
I ultimately ended up building two of these units and fastened them together to make a MEGA Trofast IKEA base unit.

Complete Build Plans Here

1.) Prep boards

Cut all boards  to the dimensions designated in cut list.  For the body of this unit I used 3/4″  Purebond Birch Plywood. (It really is a beautiful board and would look beautiful stained as well.) 

2.)  Band Edging

This is an optional step.  I wanted a nice finished edge on my unit so I decided to band the front exposed edge of all of my vertical boards.  (It is much easier to do before the unit is assembled.)

3.) Rip Down Slides

This is also an optional step.  You can ABSOLUTELY  use 1″x2″. boards as is.  I just wanted something a little more streamlined,  so I ripped down my slides/supports to 1″ as opposed to 1 1/2″ boards.  It is also  more cost efficient to do them 1″ wide.  I was able to rip down a 1″x4″  board into 1″  segments and  create 3 boards from the single 1″x4″ board.  (Illustrated below)

4.)Install Slide/Supports

When installing the supports  I always like to use a spacer.  A spacer is a board that is cut to the proper dimension (space in-between boards) and you use it to space out your supports. ( Get it?  The “Spacer” creates the same uniform space repeatedly.)

To properly install them I always use a liberal amount of DAP Wood Glue.  This would be strong enough to support the IKEA bins alone,  but it would need to be clamped while it cured.  I am not a patient person and I prefer to tack it in place with a brad nailer to “clamp it”.

Once the slides are installed I  use DAP Plastic Wood to fill any nail holes left from the brad nailer.  I give it quick once over with my sander and these babies are ready to be assembled!

5.) Assemble Base

Click here for full build plans.

6.) Counter Top

I tried some thing a little different this time in regards to the countertop.  In the past I have used 3/4″ plywood and then used 1″x2″ boards to beef up the edges.  Well I tried something a little different this time and I LOVE it.

Instead of using a board, I found some  1 1/2″ birch edge banding online. All I needed to do was to add a 3/4″ lip to the underside of my counter top.   (Make sure you cut your countertop so that you have an extra 1 1/4″  on all edges you wish to use this application.)

For the 3/4″ lip I referenced earlier, I just ripped down a piece of plywood 3/4″ wide.  I then  cut it to fit the outer edges of my counter top board.

I then glued down the lip to bottom of the outer edge.

Then I ironed on the edging to the now 1 1/2″ thick lip.   It creates a seamless edge that makes the 3/4″ plywood appear to be a slab countertop!

Once the countertop and the base unit were assembled  all it needed was little bit of paint and stain.

For the base units I used Sherwin Williams “CityScape” and for the counter tops I used “Early American” by Minwax.

I used my FujiSpray Semi-Pro to spray all the units for this install, and I LOVE it!

Okay, here they are in all their glory!  This unit was designed to go in a larger florist studio,  so I actually built 2 of these units and made a longer countertop to make it appear to be one large unit.

Full Build Plans Available Here.

 I’d like to think that it worked beautifully!

 Want to see more of this space?  Check out the full reveal here!

The post Trofast Ikea Bin Base Unit appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Every once in awhile I will get on Pinterest and browse for ideas. It’s not very often,  on this given day I hopped on and looked up “laundry room”. I am not going to lie all the images of Laundry Rooms that had a bigger footprint than my living room made me drool a little bit, and I DON’T EVEN LIKE LAUNDRY!?!   I had gotten it into my head that “maybe if my laundry room was a little easier on the eyes I wouldn’t mind it so much.  In addition  lack of storage space, or even the space  to turn around without tripping on oneself would be a big step towards that goal.  So,  I dreamed up a way that I could maximize my tiny space without compromising aesthetics.    I basically only  had a big enough footprint to walk in and have the washer and dryer.  So I really needed to maximize that small space where the washer and dryer would sit. I would use all the space above it, and even BELOW them!  That’s right. I found a great way to store my laundry baskets and have over head storage by building a built in laundry platform and overhead shelving.  Bonus:  It even looks amazing!

A big thanks and shout out to this posts sponsor DAP.  It is because of excellent partnerships like these that I am able to continue to provide more content at no cost to my readers.

Tools Suggested: 

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• 18 gauge Nailer
• Drill
• Level
• DAP Plastic Wood
• DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
• Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

• 2×4’s
• 1×6″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
• 3/4″ Plywood
• 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
• 4″ screws
• Foam Sanding Block
• Damp Cloth
• Caulk Gun

Build Platform Frame:

A WORD OF CAUTION:  Now,  I don’t want to intimidate you, this is actually a fairly simple project,  but  you do need to be careful.   I cannot stress enough,  that you need to know  exactly where your studs are! Laundry rooms by nature have plumbing and electrical.  All of that plumbing and electrical has to live somewhere.  Spoiler alert;  they are all located in the walls running next to those studs we are trying to locate.  Now imagine if we accidentally  put a screw though a water line?  It could  potentially  be a fairly  big pain in the *ss.  So in order to avoid that situation,  I STRESS, know where your studs are.   You can do this by using a stud finder,  lots  of homes codes require they be positioned 16″ apart, but sometimes if the wall isn’t divisible by 16″  it can be  a little less reliable.  I just urge you to take the time to locate the studs and then clearly mark them with a pencil.

Begin by determining the height of  your pedestal.  I made mine 16″ tall.  I based that measurement off of  our laundry baskets.  The goal was to be able to easily slide  all my laundry baskets under my pedestals.  I began by using a a level and drawing a line at the predetermined height.  I then continued that line  on the two adjoining walls.  Believe me,  having a washer and dryer agitating on  the top of a sloped platform  does not sound ideal.

The first board I added was the back support.  I used standard 2×4’s  for the framing process.    I measure the width of the back wall and cut  my first board. ( You can build the entire platform and install the entire platform.  I did not do this BECAUSE my walls are not all square. I wanted a perfect fit so I cut all my boards to fit in place.)  Next I secured the board to the wall.  I used (x2) 4″ screws  and drilled through the 2×4 into each pre-marked stud location. If this makes you a little ansy,  feel free to extend the length of your screw or if you want to go bunker mode  use lag screws. ( I have zero complaints using  my method,  but if you aren’t use to building and framing homes  this might seem a little light duty.)

Next we attach the side supports using the same method.

Next I measured from the front  of my side support to the other to get the front measurement. (Cut x2 of these.) Once cut go ahead and attach it to the front ends of the side supports.

Once the front support is in place,  I added my platform supports. To get this dimension, I just measure my interior platform dimension.  The spacing of these supports will vary dependent on the overall width of your space.  I would  suggest not going more that 14″  apart though.  Once you know your spacing measurement.  Mark the measurements on both your front and back support.  To attach the front board simply drive through the front support  into the platform/middle support.  I again used (x2) 4″  screws in each location.  Now to attach the back.  You have two options,  you can use a Pocket Hole Jig or you can use the rough construction method and “toenail it”.  Seeing as this would not be visible,  I took the quick and dirty approach.   You simply drive a screw through the top of your middle/platform support, at an angle towards your back support.  The trick is to drive through a decent amount of each board.  Repeat this again on the bottom of the board driving up towards the back support.  Repeat this for every support.  Not pictured but HIGHLY suggested.   After the platform is built I went through and added a second 2×4 to the front support.  Nothing special, just literally  used another 2×4 with the exact dimensions and attached it directly to the front of the front support.  This will just be a safeguard in the event  one of them ever gave out.

Add Platform:

Next it was time for the platform.  I used a nice 3/4″ plywood for my platform.   I measured  the dimensions of my  already built platform and transferred those dimensions to my plywood, and then cut using a table saw.  Now,  this next part will vary based on the placement of your washer and dryer hookups. Based on the logistics of our washer and dryer  I needed to cut out a hole that would accommodate our dryer ventilation.

It was a quick  process,  when I cut holes I use a 1/2″  drill bit and give myself a starter hole.  Then I use that hole as a starting point for using a jigsaw to cut out the circle. (Make sure you are aware of  the placement of your  2×4 supports that are running under  the platform.  It won’t do you any good have the  hole with a 2×4 in the way.  Last step,  slide your plywood back into place and using screws secure it to the platform.  This will just prevent the plywood from vibrating when the appliances are in use.

Make It Pretty!:

Next up ?  Make it pretty!  I wanted to make my platform look very polished and a little more beefy. So I added a 1×6 board to the face of my platform.  I left mine with a small lip  on the top.  My husband assures me that  it’s not necessary,  but in my mind I feel like this tiny lip could potentially  prevent a washer from vibrating right off.  Still debatable who is correct,  but I did it, and I don’t regret it.   To add the board measure the width of the from of your platform,  cut your board and screw it to it!

 Now we are to the fun part,  making it look pretty!  Next  I went through and filled all the visible screw holes using DAP Plastic Wood.  It is easy to apply.  Once dried I used a small sanding sponge to remove any excess filler.  It creates a smooth flawless surface!

Once all the holes are filled we can move on to filling any unseemly , seams… see what I did there?   I used DAP ALex caulk to fill all the seams where my platform and met the walls.  This will blend any discrepancies and  make it  look like a flawless built.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip.  Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to.

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!

Once it is all caulked you are ready to go!  DAP Alex Caulk  is paint-able within 30 mins. So,  by the time you have you paint out and prepped you will be good to go!   I wanted my platform to match my Open Shelves and my newly installed Upgraded Baseboards,  so I painted  my  platform Ultra Pure White by Behr.

 Isn’t she a beauty!?  I have all the base work done,  now comes the fun part!  I get to put all the finishing touches on the laundry room.  Make sure you check back for the reveal of this tiny Laundry Room Makeover later this week!

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Laundry Room Pedestal / Platform appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

So today I have teamed up with my friends over at DAP to bring you a basic walk through of the process.  Beginner to built-ins?    NO WORRIES!  That is where DAP products come into play.  It is like an eraser for the little mistakes due either to A.) user error. Or B.) Contractor Error. (In every home I have ever lived in there are always weird discrepancies, and walls that aren’t square.  This makes it really tricky to trim out a room.  But with miracle workers like caulk, and wood filler you can easily fake it until you make it!

Tools Suggested: 

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• 18 gauge Nailer
• Drill
• 1/8″ Drill Bit
• Countersink Bit
• Level
• DAP Plastic Wood
• DAP ALEX Plus Molding Caulk
• Paint of Your Choice

Supplies Used:

• 1×3″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
• 1×2″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
• 3/4″ Plywood
• 2″ 18 Gauge Nails
• Foam Sanding Block
• Damp Cloth
• Caulk Gun

Remove Old Cabinets:

See, I never even finished painting the doors!  I was not at all sad to remove these.  It was a very liberating 15 mins.  Yes,  it should only take a few minutes to uninstall.  I would suggest  having some help you because it is a little tricky to unscrew them from the wall and also catch them.  

Fill Old Holes:

After you remove your cabinets you will have large holes that might be a little unseemly. These are an easy fix. I like to use Alex Plus Spackling. It comes in a convenient tube,  dries quickly, sand-able,  does not shrink. #winning   Before you go to crazy I would strongly  suggest using a pencil of a piece of tape to indicate where the whole were/are. Why?  Odds are those are where your studs are located.  You will want to know where they are for the installation process.

Install Supports:

For the supports I used a 1×2″  primed  pin board. (You can purchase them pre-primed from The Home Depot and I LOVE it!   To get this dimension simply measure from one wall to the other.  This will be your back support.

When I am starting  the install process I like to begin by tacking my boards in place with a brad nailer.  This will not be a strong, permanent hold, but it will hold it in place long enough to ensure that it is level, and allows me to properly install it. In order to ensure it’s stability make sure you are securing the 1×2″ board into studs. (Remember how I said to take note where your studs are located ?  This is why.)  To secure it to the wall, I begin by marking the screw placement (directly over a stud),  then I used a counter sink bit, next I  pre-drilled using  an 1/8″ drill bit. THEN  I used a 3″ screw to attach the board to the wall/stud. The reason I like to use a countersink bit when attaching built-ins, is because it is easier to conceal. It creates a nice smooth hole to fill.  To fill the hole I used DAP Plastic Wood.  It goes on smooth and is sand-able. Once the filler is completely  dry, I knock it down with a sander until is perfectly  smooth. Then repeat!  You will complete these steps for both the back support and both side supports. (Cut the sides supports based on the desired width of your shelf. (Keep in mind the dimension of the back support. You need to factor in an additional 3/4″ for your overall depth.)   Once you have your desired measurement,  cut the side supports and install the same way we did the back support. Always double check that you are sitting level.

I was creating two different floating shelves, so once my side and back supports were installed, it was looking like this:

Install Shelves:

Next up,  shelving!  I used a 3/4″  birch plywood as my shelving. I measured from the back wall to the front corner of the side supports.   Use this measurement to cut your boards for the shelving. (Then of course measure the length and cut that as well.

 I tend to hate painting built-ins so I painted my shelving boards before I installed them.  Typically  I will need to follow up with some touch up paint,  but that is a fairly painless process. Once they are dry  I laid them so they are resting on the previously installed supports.  I then measure the outer edge. (It is not uncommon to have  not perfectlly square room, so I tend to make every cut to fit, when it comes to built-ins.)  

I used a 1x 3″ primed pine board as the face/front support of my shelves.  The reason for this board is to first,  give stability to the shelf, and also create the appearance of a thicker,  more substantial shelf.  I attach the face of mine using DAP wood glue, and then reinforce with 2″ brad nails. 

Once  the face/front support is attached I went through and filled the holes left from the brad nails.  (Make sure you sand off any excess, and then wipe down.) At this point, the shelf is fairly sturdy,  but as an added precaution,  I used the brad nailer to secure the shelf to the supports below it. (Simply drive a nail through the top of the shelf  into the supports along the the perimeter below it.)

PLEASE KEEP IN MIND:   These shelves can hold a decent amount of weight, but they are not meant to be used as a ladder, or a jungle gym, or a diving board…  you get the idea. 

Install Shelves:

We are in the home stretch!  Now it’s time to hide any and all discrepancies, we are ready for the magic-maker.  If you have never used caulk before you are in for a real treat. This is like a magic eraser for trim work.  I always start with a very small cut on the tip. Again,  you can always make the cut bigger if you need to .

If you have never used caulk before I would suggest doing a couple of practice rounds.  I like to set the tip of the tube on the board and glide it along leaving a small consistent bead of caulk along the trim. After a lot of practice I can normally  leave it as is.  HOWEVER, I have found that dipping my finger in water and gently  sliding it along the bead smooths it out nicely!

In order to get that flawless built-in appearance, I caulk  under the shelves where the shelf meets the supports.   I also like to caulk the seam where the top of the shelf meets the wall.  In this case it isn’t absolutely necessary because  of how high my shelves are placed,  but as a rule of thumb it is always a good idea. Once it is all caulked you are ready to go!  DAP Alex Caulk  is paint-able within 30 mins. So,  by the time you have you paint out and prepped you will be good to go!  (As I said earlier, I  make sure as many components are painted as possible before install. I much prefer  just touch up paint once the install is complete.)

 Well there you have it, in an afternoon  you can take a truly  boring space and turn it into a beautiful feature!   Just make sure you stay tuned as I wrap up this Laundry Room Makeover,  I am working on some adorable decor to be displayed on this DIY Open Shelving!          Thanks so much for following along!

 Take Luck.

 Corey

The post DIY Open Shelving appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

and created  a gorgeous new piece of wall art. While I LOVED my  Pottery Barn inspired cubbies,  (Seen Below) I was ready to change it up a bit.  So today I am teaming up with the good folks over at DAP to bring you  another AWESOME new build. 

When designing my new shelving, I decided to draw inspiration from two different shelving units I designed a while back.   The first being  this little “Concrete Tray Shelving”….

 The other source of inspiration was my Simpson Strong-Tie Shelves. 

By combing these two designs, I have come up with what might possibly be my favorite design ever…

So,  let’s get started?  Today on the blog I am taking you through  the build in a step-by-step tutorial of how I created this piece.  If you want to build it yourself  you can get the PDF printable version that includes a complete cut list, full build plans with 3-D drawings.   You can  get them here:

Step. 1)  Prep Materials

Cut all boards per cut list.  Sand all pieces if desired.

Step. 2) Attach Horizontal Supports to Vertical Base

Using a tape measure mark the placement of the horizontal shelf support.

Next add a small amount of DAP Wood Glue to the end of the horizontal shelf support, and place (and clamp if desired)  where previously measured/marked.  In order to attach these,  I first pre-drilled using a 1/8” drill bit, and a counter sink bit.  Once pre-drilled, secured the support to the vertical piece using a 2 ½” screw.

Repeat above process x3 on each vertical board,  for a TOTAL of (9) shelf supports.

Step. 3)  Attach Diagonal Supports

Next  attach all diagonal supports.  Measure  and mark with a pencil ¾” from the end of the horizontal support.  This will be where the point of your diagonal support will need to be secured.

Add a small amount of DAP Wood Glue to the inside of the diagonal support and lay in place,  making sure the 45 degree angle sits flush with the top of the horizontal support and with the back of the vertical piece.

Once in place, reinforce with a 1 ½ “ 18 gauge nail.

Repeat the same step on both sides of each horizontal support for a total of (18) diagonal supports.

Step. 4)  Build Shelves

The ¾” plywood will serve as the actual shelf.  The 1”x 2” boards will serve as an edging that will bulk up the look of the shelf and create stability.

Per the cut list use the 1” x 2” boards to wrap around the front and the sides of the plywood. When attaching these pieces I used both DAP Wood Glue and DAP Rapid fuse for an instant bond. I then tacked it in place using 1 ½” 16 gauge nails.

Step. 5)  Finish

Once the shelf supports and shelves are complete, prepare them for a finish of your choice.   Begin by filling all the nail holes with DAP Plastic Wood Nail filler. (It is both stainable and paintable.)  Once the filler has adequately dried remove all excess filler by sanding it smooth.

Once sanded, apply your choice of stain and/or paint.

Step. 6) Install

To attach my supports to the wall, I used a counter sink bit, and a 1/8” drill bit to pre-drill.   I did this at both the top, bottom and the middle of EACH vertical bracket. For a total of 3  4” screws in EACH board.

I designed these shelves so that the vertical base/supports would be secured on my wall into studs. Stud placement in my interior walls is 24”. It is important that if these will be holding any significant amount of weight that they be properly secured!

Once pre-drilled, install to the desired wall.  Make sure you mark the placement of your studs, and use a level and tape meaure to make sure they are all level and equal distant.

Once the supports are properly  secured to the wall/into studs,  add the shelves.

To attach the shelves to the  supports I again,  pre-drilled at the back of the shelving and used a 2” screw to attached the horizontal shelves the the brackets.  I found the (1)  screw in each bracket worked well,  but adding a second to each wouldn’t hurt.

 There you have it folks!  The perfect solution for a blank wall space. It is a fun new twist on the widely  loved open shelving concept.  Thanks so much for following along, don’t forget you can get all the build plan details here.

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Bracket Open Shelving appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

One fateful day I was out doing what I do best, browsing Target whilst sipping a Starbucks, naturally.  (By the way,  if you have never tried a “Double Chocolate-y Chip Frappuccino with  Caramel Drizzle on the inside of the cup”  You should, because it will blow your mind while simultaneously making you gain 2.6 lbs.  It’s magic like that.)   I digress.  I was walking through Target (with my Starbucks) and I stumbled upon the cutest rustic wall cubby!  It was adorable and could  instantly add character to any random assortment of  knick knacks!  The issue?  I nearly inhaled a chocolate chip when I saw that this little guy was $50. So after I dislodged the said chocolate chip I made my way to Home Depot where I purchased all the supplies I would need to make my own for a mere $12.  #winning

 Target Rustic Wall Cubby 

Materials Used:

• 1″x 4″ Boards (2)
• 1″x 2″ Boards (1)
• Stain
• Number Plaques (if desired)
• Metal Hanger Straps
• D-Ring picture hangers
• Wood Glue
• Wood Filler
• 1/2″ Screws
• 1 1/2″  Nails

Tools Suggested :

• Miter Saw
• Nail Gun
• Drill
• Tin Snips
• Large Clamp

Cut List :

1″x 4″ Board

• (2) @ 21″
• (2) @ 22 1/2″
• (6) @ 7″
• (2) @ 19 1/2″

1″x 2″  OR  1/2″x 2″

• (3) @ 21″

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.  

Step 1. Assemble Frame  – Rustic Wall Cubby

Secure 22 1/2″ vertical boards to the inside of the 21″ horizontal boards. For best results use wood glue and reinforce with 1 1/2″ finish nails. Allow to dry.

Step 2.  Construct Grid – Rustic Wall Cubby

Assemble the grid. There really isn’t a right or wrong way to do this.  You can use pocket holes, but I opted not to on this project.  It is a small build and wood glue would suffice.   I first attached the (2) 7″  vertical boards to the 19 1/2″ horizontal board,  I used wood glue and then reinforced with 1 1/2″ finish nails.  Repeat, so that you have (2) of these. With the remaining (2) 7″ boards, I applied wood glue to either end,  properly placed then in between  the (2) 19 1/2″ boards, and then clamped to complete the grid.  Allow to dry thoroughly.

Step 3. Insert Grid – Rustic Wall Cubby

Once the grid is dried, place it inside of the already assembled frame.   Measure to ensure it lines up correctly and then use a finish nail to secure.

Step 6. Add Metal Hanger Straps – Rustic Wall Cubby

Before I added my metal straps, I cut my three pieces, and (while wearing gloves) straightened out the metal straps.  (The straps come in a coil and naturally want to curl.) After working with it for a few minutes, it laid flat.  I then dusted it lightly with “Flat Iron” Rustoleum spray paint. After the straps were dry,  I LIGHTLY sanded it so that it would have some distressing.  To attached I used small 1/2″ screws. I placed the screws where my number plaques would be placed so  that they would be hidden.   I made sure to make the metal wrap around the back of the cubby unit.

Step 7.  Finishing Touches – Rustic Wall Cubby

Next  I added the number plaques!  I found these really  cute number plaques at Joanns.  They are originally $8,  but I used a 50% off coupon and scored them for $4. Nice.  I simply attached them with construction adhesive. (Hot Glue would work fine.)

If you decide that you want to hang this on the wall there is a really cheap way to do it!  I used small little d-rings that you can get for about $1! Attach them and you are good to go! 

Ok, so lets break it down…

• 1″x 4″ Boards (2) =$4
• 1″x 2″ Boards (1)=$1
• Number Plaques =$4
• Metal Hanger Straps= $3
• Stain and/paint =Will vary.  I used some leftover  materials. This project will not require much of either.

Total = $12 DIY vs. Target $49.99

Not too shabby!

The post Rustic Wall Cubby appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all, I kind of pride myself on working fast, and knocking out projects like nobody’s business. But the last few months… whooa! I feel like I have not sat down since we moved.  Granted the house is looking gorgeous, but some projects had to take a back burner,  this organizer being one of them.  Originally  I wanted to have this  done before the kids went back to school!  (Whoops,  missed that deadline.) Regardless, I wanted to build an organizer  that  (theoretically)  I could  lay out  their clothing the night before school, and have a bin for shoes and socks. With the thought, that if they had their whole outfit (socks and all) out  they could get themselves dressed. (Theoretically)

So…. I took inspiration from a Pottery Barn Organizer and designed this little beauty!

I’m excited  to be  teaming  up with the great folks over at HomeRight on this  project! It is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)  Make sure you enter to win your very own paint tent at the end of the post!

Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Organizer

Supplies Used:

• (1) 1″x 10″ x 8′ Common Pine Board  (Actual finished dimensions: 3/4″ x 9 1/4″ x 8′)
• (1 ) 1″x 8″ x 8′ Common Pine Board ( Actual finished dimensions : 3/4″ x 7 1/3″ x 8′)
• (1) 1″x 3″ x 8′ Common Board
• 1 1/4″ Kreg Jig  Screws
• Stain and/or Paint
• Wood Glue
• 1 1/2″ Finish Nails
  Tools Suggested:
  • Drill
  • Drill Bit
  • Kreg  JIg
  • Miter Saw
  • Nail Gun
  • Homeright Small Spray Shelter
  • Homeright Spray Shelter
  • HomeRight Finish Max Fine Finish Sprayer

  Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Don’t forget to enter the GIVEAWAY at the bottom of the post! 

• ---

  Step 1.

   Cut List:

  1’x 10″ Board

  • (2) @ 33″ ( Top and Base Boards)

  1″x 8″ Board

  • (2) @ 9 1/4″  (End Supports)
  • (2) @ 8 1/2″  (Center Dividers)
  • (1) @ 33″  (Bottom Apron )
  • (2) @ 8 1/2″ ( These will be modified to make the support corbels on the base.)

1″x 3″ Board

• (2) @ 30″ ( These will be modified to create a french cleat for installation.)

Step 2.  Attach End Supports to the Top Board

Step 3. Cut French Cleat Boards

Step 4. Add Interior French Cleat

When attaching the back cleat make sure you position the cleat so that the 45 degree angle faces toward the front of the unit.

Step 5.  Dividers

Step 6.  Attach the Base Board

Measure the appropriate distance ( use Step 5 as a reference).  Using 1-1/2″ wood screws from the underside, going through the 1″x 8″ board into the dividers and end supports.

Step 7. Add the Bottom Apron

Drill pocket holes along the top ledge of the board. Then using 1-1/2″ kreg screws attach the bottom apron board to the bottom of the cubby unit.

Step 8. Cut Corbels

Cut the 8 1/2″ x 7-1/4″ board into corbels. Once the boards/corbels  are cut drill pocket holes.

Step 9.  Attach Corbels/Supports

Step 10 . Finish

I was debating over painting  or staining, but ultimately I decided to stain it so that it would match my son’s room. If I had chosen to paint I would have hands down used a HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer and a Homeright Spray Shelter.    Because this was small build I quickly stained it, but  when I do my large builds I normally  opt to SPRAY my stain!  Yup you can do that!

 You can read all about it here. (And get all the details on that devilishly looking good build as well.) 

Step 11. Add Hardware

This is my favorite part, adding hardware!  I feel like the right hardware can definitely take a build to the next level!  I wanted there to be a mix of materials and metal is always a favorite.  I found these awesome little wire baskets at Target in the dollar section! Woot woot!  I love the dollar section!  I got them all for $3 a piece,  they were the perfect size, but the color… hmmm.  It just wasn’t going to jive with the motif.

No worries we can handle that!  I pulled out my handy  pop-up Homeright Small Spray Shelter,  and took care of that color in a jiffy!

I wanted to error on the side of caution, so I did a quick coat of spray primer.   Followed by a coat of  “Soft  Iron” by Rustoleum. 

Next up, the hooks! Naturally they needed to match my baskets, so into the spray shelter they went!  You will notice I even have the spray shelter set up inside,  yup, I had no worries. This spray shelter works like a charm.

Step 12.  Install Wall Cleat

All that is left to do is install! To attach the wall you will need to install the second cleat.  When installing I suggest a 3″ screw and make sure you are solidly into (2) studs.  I decided to paint my cleat the color of the wall so that it will blend in with the wall!

To install all you need to do is put the wall unit against the wall and drop the unit into place so that the cleats are puzzle pieced together!

That’s all there is to it folks! Side note: we used this for the first time yesterday morning and it worked like a charm!  We had laid out my boys’ clothing the night before and put their shoes and socks in their cubbies, in the morning their alarm went off and they got themselves dressed and came downstairs with out me needing to holler up the stair even once!  Ahh…. success!

ENTER TO WIN 
a Rafflecopter giveaway

The post Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Organizer appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.