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Workshop Paint/Assembly Table

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – This post is sponsored by DAP*

Hey all!  As most of you know the last 8 months my husband and I have been building my workshop.  Now that the entire structure is complete (You can see the gorgeous interior here.)  I have been working around trying to get this shop up and running smoothly.

So here is the deal. I have accumulated a lot of mismatched cabinets over the years.  They all went into my previous work spaces, and they were great at keeping me close to something resembling organized.  However, now that I have a lot more workshop, I have decided to build a whole wall of custom cabinets. (Stay tuned for those!) Regardless, I felt like a complete monster tossing all my old cabinets, so I decided to do what I do best. UPCYCLE!  Today I am happy to  join forces with the great team at DAP and I am going to you  show how I used two thrift store cabinets and turn it into a highly functional, (not to mention straight up PRETTY) workshop assembly table.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Humble Beginnings

Like I said, it all started with two $15 cabinets that I purchased a few years ago at a local Habitat for Humanity store front.  I bought these because they had pull out storage (not visible in the image below) and they were cheap and in decent shape. I just needed to hide all the clutter and these fit the bill.

So instead of using them as traditional wall cabinets, I thought a little outside the box.  I instead attached them together, to create an island of sorts.  I just put them side by side and using  screws secured them to each other.     The cabinets by themselves will be a lot of great storage, but I wanted to kick it up a notch.   From the beginning I was planning on using this as a painting/finishing station. So instead of just slapping on a piece of paneling to hide the ugly back of the cabinets, I built a quick shelf that would serve as the backside of the cabinet. WHHHATTT?  Mind blown right?

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Adding Shelves

Like,  I said I still needed to add a piece of paneling to the backside of the cabinets, to instead I just glued it using DAP Wood Glue, and simply applied it to the back of the newly constructed shelves and lay paneling on top. I tack mine in place with a finish nailer to hold it while the glue cures.  ( I painted my shelves in advance so I wouldn’t have to paint in all the small corners.) Okay,  now we are going to beef this baby up! I wanted this to be on castors so that  I could wheel it around my shop.  In order to do that I needed a really  solid base. I made a basic frame out of 2×3 boards.  This will also serve as a lip/pedestal for the shelf to sit on.  So that the shelves and cabinets are sitting back to back with good support.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – It’s All About That Base

Once the base was completed I attached it to the underside of my cabinets.  It is at this point I put my cabinets and the newly  made shelves together.  I screwed  the 2×3 base to the bottom of the cabinets, as well as the new shelves. Once it was all secured, I then screwed the shelf to the cabinet. From the way my cabinets are made, it seemed like it needed base support in order to properly work.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – The Castors

Next up castors!  I purchased mine at Home Depot.  I used two swivel and two swivel with a locking option. I put the locking castors in opposite corners so that I could keep the island still if needed,  but still mobile.   Alright, now here comes my artistic side.  I wanted this thing to be pretty and functional,  so I needed to make this unit look like ONE unit,  not just a hodge podge of discarded items.  That is where all my DAP products come into play!  It is essentially my base layer of makeup. And BOY did these cabinets need it.  I started by filling all the screw holes from their previous installation.  For this I found that DAP Plastic Wood worked best. Once dried, I went over it with a sander, and the sides were a nice clean canvas for my paint. 

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Paint The Doors

The last thing that needed to be prepped for paint was the doors. I had found some AWESOME hardware I wanted to use, and they did not jive with the current hole positions.  So, easy fix.  I grabbed my Plastic Wood, filled the holes ! After it dried, I smoothed it out with a sander. VOILA!  What holes? While I had the sander out, I made sure to give all my cabinets a good sanding.  When painting laminate you want to make sure all the surfaces are sanded enough to create a dull finish.  The small scuffs will allow the paint to properly adhere. 

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Painting W/ Primers

There is a lot of controversy over paint w/primers vs.  priming then painting. I like to live on the wild side, so I used Sherwin Williams paint with primer  and have zero complaints!  If you are wondering I used “Cityscape”,  I just happened to have  a few gallons left from when I painted our home’s exterior.  (You can read all about it here.)  Once the base was painted I was read to move onto the counter top. Before I could add a counter top I needed to build up the top 3/4″. Reason being… I wanted to add a banding around the edge of my  counter slab and if I did not build it up, my cabinet doors would have not been able to open.  I digress, I built up the top using 1×2 boards.  These will support my  plywood counter.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – The Countertop

In order to make a beautiful counter top I used a piece of PUREBOND  3/4″ plywood.  They are beautiful pieces that a stain quality and would be a gorgeous feature to my island.  As I stated before I wanted to add a band/edging to my counter, so on the underside I used a Kreg Pocket jig and drilled out pocket holes around the perimeter. Next up?  The edging. I simply measured the edges and cut to fit and used a basic butt joint.  Before attaching a applied a small amount of wood glue to ensure a snug fit. Now…  before I flip this sucker over and install, I started to get creative. I wanted to add a rool of paper to the under side of my  workstation that I could use much like a table at a Dr’s office. I wanted to be able to pull up a new sheet when I was working with paint and stain, and then rip it off when I was finished. SO, I  needed a way to hand said roll of paper. Well,  I went to my drawer of random hardware and THIS is the Macgyver solution  I came up with, carabiners, screws and multiple washers. I there a better way to do this ? Probably, but this is what I had on hand and it worked for me! 

Alright,  now I was ready to flip it over and secure it in place… to do that I fastened it from the inside of the cabinets.  (You guys, it took me  an extra three minutes to try and figure out how to word that without making it sound dirty.) #winning 

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Paper Holder

Alright we are in the HOME STRETCH ! Last thing it needed was to somehow create a way to feed the paper  up and  hold the paper in place. In order to do that I used  two (one for each end)  1×2″ boards,  cut to the width of the counter. I was going to need to attach them via screw at the very edge of the board, so I pre-drilled and countersank  each end. Then using a small washer as a spacer I  drove the screw through the end cap board and through the washer and into the actual counter top edge.  This washer would give me  the gap I needed to feed my paper through.  I did this on BOTH ends.  The result?  Nothing short of magical! I clean work space!  Last thing I needed to do was ad my roll of paper.  So instead of building my entire table to fit my paper roll,  I simply cut my paper to fit my table.  #geniusNow just install that sucker! I then fed the paper back down  the other end. Nice crisp, clean work space.  

 There you have it!  Isn’t she a BEAUT !? 

Look at how much it can store! It just makes my heart happy.   There is that hardware I was telling you about. How perfect are they?!Plus, PLENTY of easily accessible storage. I call that a win!   That about wraps this build up!  Thanks for following along.

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Workshop Paint Assembly Table - Using Old Cabinets

DIY Craftsman Door Casing with Corbels

DIY Craftsman Door Casing – This post is sponsored by DAP*DIY Craftsman Door Casing

Hey all!  I am still here, I promise. With the Holidays at an end, I find myself having a hard time getting back into the swing of things! Regardless, I am back and I am so excited to FINALLY  bring you a long-awaited tutorial. When we moved into our home,  it was VERY builder grade.  It was a really nice home but lacked interest. So, what’s a girl to do? ADD some freaking interest!  So I have teamed up with the great folks over at DAP to bring you a home upgrade that packs a punch!

 

Today, I am showing you a DIY Craftsman Door Casing with classic corbels to give it a little something extra.  Seriously, there was nothing wrong with this entry before,  it was in no way an eyesore, but as soon as it was cased out it became a gorgeous feature. So,  if you are looking to add character AND value to your home,  look no further. THIS IS IT!

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How to Install DIY Craftsman Door Casing and Easy Corbels

 

Tools Suggested:

  • Miter Saw
  • Table Saw
  • Nail Gun
  • Sander
  • Mallet
  • Pry Bar

Supplies Used:

  • Sandpaper
  • DAP Alex White Caulk/ Caulk Gun
  • (4) 1″ x 2″ Boards
  • (9) 1″ x 6″ Boards  (read all of tutorial before purchasing supplies because some board widths are apt to change)
  • (2) 1″ x 4″  Boards
  • DAP DynaGrip
  • DAP Rapid Fuse Wood Glue
  • DAP DryDex Spackling

 

DIY Craftsman Door Casing – Installing the Door Casing

Step 1. Remove Baseboards

Out with the old and in with the new!  I wanted the door casing to run directly  into the floor and have the baseboard butt directly into the casing. In order to achieve this,  I had to remove the base boards around the base of the door frames.  Nothing a pry bar and a hammer can’t handle in a minute or two!

Step 2. Interior Top

Next we are ready for the interior casings. You will need to measure the interior with of the door frame.

In my case the width was 5″ wide.  So I bought a 1″x 6″ board so that I could rip it down on the table saw to be the correct size.  (You will need to do this for all three interior faces of the door frame.)

Once you have the board cut to the correct width you will need to measure and cut the correct  length.

The width of my doorway was 75″, so I cut down my newly customized board to 75″.   For good measure do a dry fit and make sure the board fits before proceeding…

If it fits we are good to go!  I slapped on a liberal amount of DynaGrip  to the back of the board.  DynaGrip is some serious stuff!  It is like having an extra set of hands! (Seriously, made life so much easier when installing faux shiplap! You can read all about it here.) 

Once it is all adhesive-d up we are ready to install.  Granted there is plenty of glue to hold it in place, I really don’t have that much patience or  arm muscle endurance to wait for glue to dry.  Therefore I reinforced with 2″ 16 gauge nails using a nailer.  Worked like a charm. 

Step 3.  Interior Sides

Once the top board is in place we are ready to move onto the sides.  Same routine as “Step 2.” but , obviously it will be on the sides.

 

Step 3.  Exterior Sides

Now we are ready for the exterior boards!  Again I used 1″ x 6 ”  primed fingerboard.

Here is the thing you will want to be aware of.  When installing, I offset the new boards by approximately  3/8″.  Basically  you will want the interior trim’s side exposed about 3/8″.  This  creates a nice clean looks and gives you are little wiggly room for any discrepancies.

Keep this gap in mind when you measure the length of your boards.  You will want to create that same spacing where your side board meets the (eventual) top header.

Basically if you are measuring from your floor to the inside of the top board, you will want to add another 3/8″s  to your board.  (Example:  My floor to top board measurement is 108″,  in order to create the same gap all the was around I need to cut my (new side) board at 108 AND 3/8″s.

Once you have all the math work done, install the same way you did for the other boards. Use DynaGrip , nail, yadda, yadda. 

Keep in mind I am only  showing one side of the entry in this tutorial,  make sure you do both sides of the entry,  or it will look a little funny.

Step 4. Build/Install  Header

Next the header!  I used primed 1″x 2″  finger boards (x2 for each header)  and 1″x 6″ primed finger board (x1 for each header)

In order to get the measurement for the 1″x 6″ board you will need to measure from the outsides of your side casing.  ( See image below)

The 1″x 6″ board will be the same measurement as your above measurement.

The 1″x 2″ boards will 1-1/2″ longer.  (For example my 1″x 6″  is 85″ long, I will then cut my 1″x 2″ boards at 86 1/2″)  This will allow for a 3/4″ overhang on both ends.  Simply apply a little wood glue to  the outside ends of the 1″x 6″ boards and  press the 1″ x 2″ board in place and then reinforce with a 1-1/2″ nail .

 

Next  install the header in the same manner  you did the other boards.  Apply DynaGrip , and then reinforce with 2″  16 gauge nails.

Again,  don’t forget to do this to both sides of the entry,  or your guests will have another reason to look at you wonky… I kid I kid.

Step 5.  Trim Out the Base

The only reason  I needed to trim out the base, is because of our newly  installed flooring.  The gap  at the base was too wide,  in most cases you will be able to butt right up to the floor with no need for trim.

IMG 4158

 

 

DIY Craftsman Door Casing – Building and Installing the Corbels

Step 6.  Decorative Corbels (Optional)

To make the corbels, I used 1″ x 4″ Primed Finger boards.  Each corbel will need (x4) 24″ boards. (So a total of 8 if you are making 2 corbels.)

Using a table saw I cut all of my boards edges on a 45 degree angle.

  Once one side was complete, I rotated and cut a 45 degree angle on the other edge. 

 When put together these will theoretically  make a hollow rectangle.  

When assembling them I used an DAP RapidFuse instant glue. It is basically a superglue for wood and it will change your life!

Once the glue is completely set,  cut  both the ends on a 45 degree angle.  I made my corbels 24″ from long point to long point.

As a decorative touch I added 1″x 4″ boards to beef up the corbels.  

In a perfect world, all of the door frames and walls would be square.  Alas, they are not.   Because my walls are a little wonky, I needed to install my 1″x 4″ boards directly  to the door frame. Again, I glued and then reinforced with screws.

Now I was ready for the corbels/supports. I applied a little glue to the ends of the 45 degree angles, and positioned them centered on the already installed 1″x 4″ boards.  Once they were in position I “toe-nailed” (nailed them at an angle) through the ends of the angles directly into the  secured 1″x4″ boards.   Once these are installed Decorative Casing And Corbels By Sawdust2stitches For Remodelaholic.com

DIY Craftsman Door Casing – Finishing

Step 7.  Prep for Paint

  Next I needed to prep for paint.  Time to get rid of all the unsightly holes!  To fill the topical holes I used a basic painter spackle/putty.

 Once the filler had completely dried I did a once over with a finish sander.

 Last thing I needed to do to prep for paint was caulk all the seams. The odds of all the boards meeting up PERFECTLY are slim-to-none.  So don’t beat yourself up about it,  caulk can be your best friend!  It will make any unsightly  gaps completely disappear.  Abracadabra!

DIY Craftsman Door Casing – The Paint

 Now all there is left to do is slap some paint on this sucker. I used “Ultra Pure White”  by Behr in a semi-gloss  finish.

 

 

Want to see what else I have been up to in our new home ?  These are some of my favorite new additions!

Take Luck,

Corey

Sawdust2stitches How To Create A Realistic Faux Brick Wall Out Of Paneling.
Faux Brick Wall 

Crate Dresser By Sawdust2stitches
Pottery Barn Inspired Crate Dresser 

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Christmas Ornament Tabelscape

This post was sponsored by JOANN

One of my all time favorite parts of the Holidays is dressing the table for the festivities!  This year I teamed up with the great folks over at JOANN to create a tablescape that adds to the ambiance of the holidays! If you haven’t seen my  Christmas theme yet you might want to check it out here.  I wanted to continue my theme of naturals,  greens, and light colors… I don’t want to brag or anything but I think I nailed it! 

So let me walk you though how I developed the foundation for my tablescape.   I wanted to carry the use of grapevine from my tree to my table, and this is how I did it!  I purchased some grapevine garland from JOANN,  I was able to stretch it out and loosen it up to create a nice slow looping motion. 

In order to make the grapevine stay in the shape I wanted it to, I used a long strip of wood and a staple gun!  I simply tacked the grapevine to the wood to act as a stabilizer. 

I repeated the process down the length of the table.  Next up I added  a simple Pine Garland from JOANN.  It was very realistic and had pine cones, and with the holiday sales they were running I was able to pick it up for $12! Nice.  Next  I needed to add some filler.  I wasn’t entirely certain what I was going to use as a filler, but then as I was browsing JOANN it hit me… or rather I nearly  ran it over.  They had a huge display of clear ornaments!  There was something about them… I like the way they reflected light, and the simplicity of them. So I grabbed an assortment of sizes and prayed my idea would work!  Before checking our  I grabbed a handful of miniature Christmas light strands to play around with and then headed home to experiment.

*Spoiler Alert* It all pans out! 

Well those little stands of light I grabbed as an impulse buy were my saving grace. I threw a few strand in a handful of their large craft bulbs and had a CLEAR winner. (See what I did there?) I ended up adding a touch of gold spray paint to the ornament caps.  You can pick up the spray paint at JOANN and it took all of 5 minutes to do. So if you want to change up your color scheme a bit, this is a great way to do it!

Lastly,  I added a small piece of ribbon to the tops of the ornaments. It just looked like it was missing something, and apparently that “something”was a simple white satin ribbon. AGAIN,  changing out this simple ribbon could be a great way to coordinate with your other home decor. So just mull that option over. 

I also added a simple runner made from ticking available at JOANN fabric section. It tied in the rest of my chargers and flatware perfectly.  

I wanted to carry the centerpiece into my  individual place settings as well, so I fastened a small clear ornament  to a white satin ribbon, and used it in lieu of a napkin ring.  I then snipped a small clipping from my pine garland runner and tucked it in the ribbon.  These little touches cost about $5 TOTAL  to add flare to every place setting! Not too shabby! 

That just about does it! Hopefully I have sparked an idea or two!? All I know is that I now want to use lights in large clear bulbs EVERYWHERE!  I just love the look!

In order to make life less complicated here are links to most of the items I used for this tablescape:

 

 Thanks so much for reading along, and for the continual  support of my sponsors. It is thanks to companies like JOANN that I can continue to bring you content at no additional cost to you.  Thanks All, and Happy Holidays!

  Take Luck,

 Corey

 

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of JOANN. The opinions and text are all mine.

Step-by-step instructions to create a simple elegant tablescape. #handmadewithjoann #ad

Synchronous Tag: Non Synchronous Tag;

Boys’ Bunk Bed Room

This post is sponsored by City Furniture*

Hey All!  I am pleased to announce that my boys room is FINALLY 100% finished!  A few years ago I started my little boys’ plane themed room. I have always known how to use tools, (construction background) but furniture building is actually a hobby I picked up a few years ago. One of my very first  projects was a bunk bed for my boys. Let’s just say, it was a classic learning experience.  You know the old saying “measure twice, cut once”?  Well, I am a little too impatient for said motto.  Somehow my dimensions were off and I made the bunk bed a little too small for a standard size mattress. Whoops!  Well, I was desperate and just MADE the mattress fit. As a result we have absolutely destroyed their mattresses over the past few years.  The kids were past due for new mattresses,  but that meant building another bed!? Ugh.  Sometimes, even I need to accept that I cannot do it all and I need to get reinforcement from the professionals. As you all know I have been ridiculously busy  remodeling a home and building a shop, but the kids NEEDED a new bed, and I didn’t have the time… So allow me to introduce you to my lifeline, City Furniture.

After shopping around and comparing prices and reviews I found that City Furniture  would be just the ticket.  They  had a  great selection of Kid/Teen  bedroom furniture to choose from. 

After heavily  considering it, we opted for the twin over twin bunk bed with a trundle pullout! We have little cousins that like to have sleepovers and it is nice to have an extra bed readily available. Because let’s be real, who ever had a good nights rest on an air mattress. 

They  had several options that we considered,  but I thought that the white was just what this space needed. I wanted it to be light and brighten the space. Ultimately we opted for  the “Lauren” bunk bed.
 It was the perfect fit ! Here is a view of the far side of the room.  I just love this little nook consisting of an up-cycled bookcase, a tent made by yours truly, and a big comfy reading chair inherited from a friend.  The far wall consists of a crate dresser I made for my kiddos to store all their toys. (I built this after I had a few years of  furniture building under my belt, and you can get the build plans here.) As well as a world map I painted on a flat sheet!  

Here is one more satisfying last shot of the kids’ room!

There is so much satisfaction in knowing that …

  • A.) The space is “check off my list”DONE!
  • B.) The room is beautiful and highly functional.
  • C.) It was done at a very affordable price.
  • And last but not least my kids LOVE it!  I am calling that a WIN!  Thanks so much for reading along!

Take Luck,

Corey

DISCLOSURE:  This post is sponsored by City Furniture.  I was provided product and compensation for this post.  All opinions and ideas; however, are 100% my own.  

 

Holiday Home Tour 2017 (Juniper Berry Inspired)

Hey All! If you know me at all, you know that I am a HUGE fan of Christmas and the Holiday season.  I admit, I am THAT person. The person that is jamming out to  98 Degree Christmas album… in August.  I am mentally  planning Christmas Decor clear back in July. Come October, all  18 totes (not including signage, trees, and wreaths) are out of the attic! I always tell myself I will wait until after Halloween to unpack them, but I confess sometimes I am weak, and we have trick-or-treaters staring incredulously past me at the Christmas Tree in the corner. Whatever,  I like it!
So I’m excited to bring you this year’s Holiday Home Tour.  Last year you may recall, I went with a more rustic theme with brilliant pops of red. Well, this year as I was shopping around and  I found a few sprigs of Juniper Berries, and I fell in love.  That was it…  Juniper Berries were  my destiny, well at least for this Holiday Season.

I went with a flocked white tree this year from King of Christmas.  I went with a lot of natural elements.  I loved the grapevine I used last year so no sense reinventing the wheel with that. Want to use it on yours ?  Here is a trick I use when adding grapevine.

So my theme was lots of naturals, white, and light gray blues tones.  Lots of eucalyptus (hobby lobby), Juniper (Hobby Lobby and Michaels) The blue hue berries are actually from the spring stem collection at Michaels. AT the end of the season I CLEARED them out!  I told you I start plotting early!   I also fell in love with clear bulbs this season and filled them with lots of different natural elements. LOVE!

While  I do miss my vivid pops of red, and will probably  go back to it next year I love the soothing natural feel of this theme!

Like I said, I really  get into decorating for Christmas, so I created a piece of wall art that would compliment my tree!  I was really  digging my large clear ornaments so I went with that!  I wanted to showcase them, so I used that as my point of inspiration. Ta-Da!

I love how simple it it, yet packs a punch!

As for the rest of the living room, I went with a simplistic approach. I am loving the metal ring wreath this year, so I pickedd up a metal craft hoop and made my own using the eucalyptus and juniper. 

I also  placed a few small flocked trees through out the downstairs.  I picked mine up at Walmart for $30! 
Lastly  I added a little bit of holiday cheer to the stairs.  (Ignore the ugly carpet, that is on the “someday” list.)

Alright, that pretty,  much wraps up the living room for this Holiday Season.  Stay tuned for, my festive table setting coming up soon.

  Take Luck,

 Corey

Workshop Interior

Hey All! A few years ago when we  were considering moving, one of the pre-requisites for any future home was a 3-car garage.  I needed to  have a little more elbow room for building, and it would be nice to have a little space for an actual garage. Well, as fate would have it, we fell in love with a home that was perfect for us, EXCEPT it did not have a a 3-car garage. Regardless, the heart wants what the heart wants, and we went forward with the purchase of the home; with plans to rectify the shop situation. We decided to wait a year or two and save up some money and build me a detached shop. WELL all our hard work is paying off and  I am glad to report that two years after our move we are now on the tail end of  building the shop!!!

It is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)

Homeright Logo2

We planned this beauty so that it would look like a detached garage, and wouldn’t take away from our home. We drew it up so that it would match the architecture of our home and  I think we nailed it!

The INSIDE is the part I am most excited to show you though. I had big plans and dreams for this space. I not only wanted it to be a highly functional work space, I wanted it to have the aesthetics of  a studio. I had my work cut out for me and it included preparing long before we started building.

I got the crazy idea of leaving the trusses exposed… but not only did I want them exposed, I wanted them stained! (Of course I did.) So, before we flew our trusses, I stained them while they were accessible from the ground.

Before I started staining I tried out a few different color options. I ultimately decided on “Golden Oak” by Minwax.
I honestly  thought that is was going to take an eternity, but it was actually quite painless.  I simply loaded up my HomeRight Super Finish Max Extra and started spraying! My husband and I had a system down pat after the first few. I would spray and he would run a rag over them to remove any excess stain. We  would then stand them up against a tree. We had them all done in about 2 hrs. Not too shabby, when  I was expecting this to be a full weekend project.  Once all the trusses were stained it was time to paint the sheathing. That’s right!  I wanted the boards behind the stained trusses to be white. I wanted to achieve a nice contrast, also the white boards would help lighten the shop.   So what’s a girl to do ?

Let me just say, I think the neighbors thought we were crazy. But my husband and I laid out 52 sheets of OSB in the side yard… It kept reminding me of the larger than life playing cards from Alice in Wonderland… RIGHT!??! I so badly wanted to paint come clubs on a few, but alas  I was strong and resisted.  I digress… I then pulled out my trusty HomeRight Power-Flo Pro. (You may recall we used this to paint the exterior of our home earlier this year.) 

I rigged it to my dolley so that I could easily  move the sprayer and the 5 gallon bucked of paint with it. (I am smart like that.) It took no time at all!  I ended up doing a primer coat, and then flat top coat. ( I needed it to dry FAST so that I could re-stack it once I was done.) 

Seriously, this thing made short order of the sheets.


Seeing the first  few sheets go up made me giddy!  That contrast is the stuff dreams are made of…well my dreams anyways.

 Doesn’t that repetition  just make your heart skip a beat ?! 

Ok, now that the ceiling was covered, it was time to tackle the interior. Again, I hooked up my trusty Power-Flo Pro and got busy!   I first had to “prime” the cinder block first using something called “block filler”.  It does just what it claims, it fills all the pores on the block making it easier to top coat. My husband and I have team work down to an art when it comes to painting with this thing.  We had it done in a few hours and top coated the next day! So, without further ado. I give you  my  workshop!!!!Isn’t it gorgeous!?!Would you believe  I made all the lights out of industrial pipe and lights I got in the clearance section at Home Depot? Well believe it,because I totally did. It was exactly the look I was trying to achieve, and it didn’t take half as long as I had anticipated!  Having the right tools for the job makes life a hell of a lot easier! I still have plans to put down a floor coating that will deepen and enhance the look of the concrete, but for now, I am going to sit back and enjoy this view.  Thanks so much for reading!

Take Luck,

 Corey

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