Window Framed Mirror

http://sewingandsanding.blogspot.com/2014/05/window-framed-mirror.html

I have a garden tub, and it looks like there is SUPPOSED to be a window above it. The tub looked like it was hidden in a cave. There is not very much natural lighting in this bathroom, and the previous owners dark, ugly, puke, olive green was not helping the situation.
Even after a light paint job, it still was an awkward space to fill. I knew I would be bathing kids in this tub, so whatever I decided it needed to be kid proof, and splash proof. I also wanted to lighten the room…

My go to answer when I’m stuck is a mirror. I LOVE mirrors! ( and not in the narcissistic way.) Mirrors, can add to a room without taking away from it. It can make spaces feel larger and bounces light. Basically if used correctly they can be a “neutral” for the space. It can add to the space but does not need take away from any other decorations.

Once I decided I wanted a mirror, I got to work! I knew I wanted a LARGE mirror, but a mirror this size can be $$! So, I found a better option…

*Logistics*
Tools Suggested:
Miter Saw
Nail Gun    (you can use a hammer)
Table Saw (or you can ask the helpful employees of your local hardware)

    Supplies Needed:
(2) 12″ x 48″mirrors              =   $5.00 (x2)
(1) 4’x8′ 1/2″ OSB or MDF =   $9.00
(2) 1″x3″ Fir Stripping           = $1.80 (x2)
(1) 1’x2′ Fir stripping        = $1.00
Liquid Nails                      = $2.00
(3) Lattice Strips                      = $2.00
(2) D rings                               = $2.00

Begin by removing the mirrors from the cheap frames. Be extremely careful, they are very breakable. ( I may or may not have learned that the hard way.) If you are superstitious, I think I am up to about 21 years of bad luck. Bummer.

First peel back all of the cardboard:

I then used a utility knife to cut along the edges. Once the perimeter is cut, pull the frame directly out/away from the mirror. ( I have found that is the easiest way to remove the frame.)

For the next step you will need your panel of OSB/MDF board (Whichever you prefer). It will need to be cut to 53’x29″. Apply a liberal amount of Liquid Nails to the surface of the board. Then using a old credit card or a piece of thick cardboard, spread the glue out over the surface so that there are not any obvious lumps of glue.

After glue is spread CAREFULLY (I might have broken a mirror at this step too) take your mirrors and lay them on top of the glue.

While that was drying I started on the frame. Using a miter saw I cut down the 1×3’s with 45 degree cuts on all ends.
Long point to long point 29″ (You will need two of these.)
Long point to long point 53″(You will need two of these.)

Again, using the liquid nails secure the 1×3’s around the perimeter of the mirrors. ( I also used a nail gun and tacked mine in place.) I do suggest reinforcing this in some way, either by nails or screws.

Next I installed the “grid”.
You will need to cut:
(x1) 48″ lattice strip
(x4) 11.25″ lattice strips.
* These measurements are based on the mirrors I purchased, I would double check the measurements before cutting!*

Using the liquid nails I then adhered the lattice strips like this:

(I used weights to weigh down the strips while it dried.)

Once the window grid is dry, you can add the edging.

Cuts:

Lattice Strips:

(1) 53″ (45 degree angles on both ends, having the distance between the 2 shortest points 53″)

(2) 29″ (45 degree angle on one end, and a straight cut on the other. The distance between the short point and straight cut should be 29″)

1×2 :

(1) 53.5″

I used a brad nailer to secure the lattice strips and the 1×3 on the bottom. (The 1×3 creates a lip.)

Lastly, I installed “D Ring Hangers” on the back side. (This will be a fairly heavy mirror, I suggest calculating where the studs will be THEN install the “D rings”, so you can be sure to hang the mirror on studs.