The tricky thing about designing an R.V. is that pretty much everything needs to be practical. Everything is compact and very little space for anything other than the essential. In order to add my style to the space I had to get creative and make sure that even the small things packed a punch. This DIY upholstered headboard with leather straps was just what the master bedroom needed! It added tons of character to the space while still remaining practical . #winning

Materials Used

• 1/4″ Paneling/Underlayment
• 1x 2 common Pine Board
• 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• DAP Wood Glue
• Foam Padding
• Sharpie Marker
• Upholstery Staples
• Painters Drop Cloth (or preferred material)
• Leather Straps (Comes in more colors.)
• Brass Twist Lock Closures (Not exact but similar)
• DAP All-Purpose Adhesive Spray

Tools Recommended

• Table Saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Drill with pocket hole bit
• Nailer w/ 1/2″ nails (optional)
• Tape Measure
• Rotary Fabric Cutter
• Cutting Mat
• Rotary Cutting Straight Edge
• Upholstery Stapler
• X-Acto Knife
• Forstner Bit (Optional)

Frame

Before we diver in first determine the size headboard you need. I needed something that was custom to my R.V. so mine is a little smaller scale than I would typically build for a standard bed. Just as a point of reference, mine is 58″ x 18″.

When working in a camper/ R.V. the general premise is to keep it lightweight! This headboard would be ultra light weight, starting with the frame. To start I ripped 1×2 board in half, essentially making two square dowel rods.

Once the “dowel rods” were prepped I was ready to cut everything to size. When creating your own headboard cut a piece of 1/4″ paneling to the exact dimensions you would like your complete head board to be. Next cut the dowel rods to create a perimeter around your board.

In order to stabilize the drill pocket holes on either end the small side rails.

Using pocket hole screws secure boards to create a sturdy rectangle. (This should be the exact size of your paneling.)

Add a bead of DAP Wood Glue glue to the top of the newly constructed frame. Then flip the frame over on top of the 1/4″ wood paneling. You can either clamp it and allow the wood to cure, or you can tack it in place using a nailer for an instant hold.

Foam Padding

Once the simple frame structure is constructed we are ready to move on to the textile portion of this project! For this “upholstery” headboard I utilized a cheap foam mattress topper pad (Walmart), a painters drop cloth, (x2) leather straps (Amazon), and brass twist locks (Amazon).

Begin by unrolling the foam pad and allow it to relax for a few minutes.

Next we will prep to cut off the excess material. Using a ruler and a sharpie mark a 3″ border around the perimeter of the headboard frame.

Using a rotary cutter, straight edge and cutting mat, remove the excess material using the previously marked dimensions.

Alright, let’s move this area to a well ventilated location. I like to use DAP multi-purpose spray adhesive to give me a leg up when it coms to upholstering projects. Lightly coat the back of the foam with RapidFuse multi-purpose spray, then position the headboard frame centered on the foam and press firmly. This will keep the foam from shifting as you work and help keep it is place even after it is upholstered.

Next? Secure that sucker with ALL the staples. on a project like this I can easily use a lightweight upholstery staple.

Using the stapler secure the foam to frame along both long edges.

Creating a nice corner with foam can be a little tricky. Use the below images to see my preferred method.

Applying Fabric

Once the foam is in place we are ready to move on to the fabric. It is essentially the same process for applying the foam. To start cut your fabric so that you have an additional 4″ of fabric on all sides. (Take the width dimension and add 8, and take your length dimension and add 8. This will be the size of your piece of fabric.) Once it is cut set it aside.

Again, I like to use my DAP RapidFuse spray adhesive when upholstering. Just lightly dust the foam form with the adhesive spray. Then lightly lay your fabric on top of your cushion doing your best to keep it square. Once you are happy with the placement smooth the fabric out over the form.

Then flip over and secure the fabric to the back of the frame using the upholstery stapler. (If you have excess fabric you can easily cut it off with scissors if so desired.)

Ta-Da! Know it is time to give this bad boy some character!

Leather Straps

While a simple upholstered headboard is a classic, I was feeling the need for some pizzazz! I recently finished up the curtains in the living room and I loved the style of the leather straps. I used the look and recreated the look on a larger scale. Leather and brass!

The plan was use two leather strips to secure the upholstered headboard to the wall, while also giving it tons of character. In order to determine the length of my leather strap I used the following formula. (Height of headboard x2, + 8″) The additional 8″ will allow for an extra 4″ on each end of the strap allowing space for the brass twist lock closure.

Most clasps will come with their own set of instructions. Please consult them, but this is a basic overview. I centered my closure approximately 2″ down from the top of my strap. I used a forstner bit and an x-acto knife to form the proper size hole in the leather allowing me to install the brass closure opening.

Installing the twist lock mechanism is very simple. It is just two small incisions, then feed the metal prongs through and fan out. Easy-peasy.

Installation

Begin by marking where you would like your straps to be situated on the headboard. (Mine are placed approximately 12″ from each edge.) Next, find the middle/center of the leather strap. Using a 1/2″ screw, drive the screw through the strap and into the bottom frame of your headboard.

The headboard is designed to be extremely light weight and as such will not require much by way of install. I used 2 screws placing them slightly above closure on the back strap. I would highly recommend these go into a secure stud or utilize mollies.

Once the screws are in place you can latch the top strap to the back. This will complete the installation process while also hiding the screws!

That’s all there is to it! A simple elegant piece that is not only cheap and practical, it totally completes this space! Stay tuned for the full room reveal!

Want to see more R.V. projects? You can can check out all the progress and projects here:

• Toy Hauler Kitchen Makeover
• R.V. Curtains Tutorial
• Toy Hauler Living Area Makeover
• R.V. Reveal
• R.V. Bathroom Makeover

That about wraps it up for this project! Thanks so much for following along.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post How to: Upholstered Headboard with Leather Straps appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

 I was finishing up the garage section of the Toy Hauler and decided it needed a little bit of art or decor on a blank wall. Seeing as this was going to be in the “garage”  in a mobile unit,  that also doubles as the kids bunk house, I  knew I needed something…durable. Another requirement…  I could only  use items around my house. (Covid-19)  So, I rummaged through my “future projects” closet  and found a framed piece of artwork I picked up on clearance at Hobby Lobby last year! 

First things first I needed a clean slate so I painted over the zebra print so that I would have blank canvas.

I then used a straight edge and Frogtape to create the appearance of a mat edge.

Next, I needed to get my supplies in order. I had a plethora of leftover paint samples in the garage that I was able to choose from. For this ombre art I used 5 different colors in varying shades of gray. You can use more or less if you so choose. I also needed a stiff bristle brush (chip brush).

Using a “chip brush” I started applying the lightest color first. In order for this technique to work you need to work quickly! I went over it several times in a “w” motion until the brush strokes looked fairly uniform.

Once the first color was on I moved on to the second to lightest color. When switching colors you do not need to change paint brushes just wipe the excess and dry blot it on a paper towel before starting the next color.

Repeat these steps for each of the different colors making sure to blend up and overlap the colors so that there aren’t any drastic lines.

I personally think the broader the hue spectrum the better it turns out. My first color was barely an off-white and my last color was nearly black. I think the stark difference makes it more interesting. I think this technique could be really cool blending different colors too!

Alright, once the last color is in place we are ready to move onto the next phase. Quickly clean your brush thoroughly, or grab a new one.

Before beginning this step I ran my paintbrush under water and towel dried it. They idea is to have a slightly damp brush. I then started at the top (lightest color) and started lightly dragging my brush horizontally across the paint. This is why it is so important to work quickly, you need to be working with wet paint in order for this technique to work.

As best as you can create parallel strokes all the way down to the bottom of the piece. (Darkest color)

Ta-Da! Isn’t it beautiful? Now for the fun part, removing the tape to reveal your art work!

I took one extra precaution to protect the paint, I added a coat of mod-podge on top. This isn’t necessary but it will give it a protective coat while also giving a little bit of luster.

Seriously, how legit does this 5 min piece of art look!?

Once dry I put it back in the original frame and I was good to go! So, without further ado let me show you where this beauty ended up and how awesome the toy hauler garage turned out!

Let me give you are quick refresher on what this space looked like the day we brought it home. Lots of brown and beige, and the general ambience of a cave.

This space definitely needed some love to help it reach its full potential.

With a little bit of elbow grease, paint, new curtains and some new upholstery this place felt so warm and welcoming. No more cave!

Well, there you have it folks a fresh take on a toy hauler garage. (In case you were wondering, yes there is still a bunk bed that drops down from the ceiling. I painted the entire platform white so that it would look like it was just part of the ceiling. It definitely helped brighten and reflect light into this small space!)

If you want to see more of the R.V. Toy Hauler reveal you can check them out in the links below.

• Kitchen Makeover
• Living Area
• Bedroom (coming soon)
• Bathroom (coming soon)

Sources:

• Wall Color- “Repose Gray” Lightened 50%. by Sherwin Williams
• Table Top- Ikea
• Curtains (Tutorial available here.)
• Printed Throw Pillow – Target 2019
• Burnt Red Throw Pillow- T.J. Maxx 2018

Thanks for reading along, and make sure to check back for more R.V. makeover developments.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post How to: Ombre Painting Wall Art appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Alright, who here has an outdated R.V. or Toy hauler that needs a makeover? Well, you are in the right place. Let’s dive right in, shall we?

Phase 1: Gutting the R.V.

Oh how I wish I could transport you into this image. Let me paint you a picture. Imagine you have 3 full grown dogs and the concept of brushing or cutting their hair is a foreign concept. Then one day you decide to sell said kennel R.V. and you realize the smell might be a deterrent. What to do? OBVIOUSLY you buy three economy size boxes of moth balls and hide them in all the nooks, crannies and vent ducts in order to mask the smell.

Phase 2: Prepping

Is that picture coming in clear? Well, go ahead and add at least 3 more dogs possibly a cat, Florida heat and you get a pretty good sense of the smell. All of this to say, while the before images aren’t BAD, this makeover was necessary despite the appearance of its condition.

Phase 2: Priming

Everything needed to go. Anything that could not receive a fresh coat of odor blocking paint was removed. ( If you are interested in the painting process you can get all the details for spraying here, and hand rolling here.) But for the sake of showing the makeover progression let me give you a general overview. I gutted this sucker! This time around I decided to use the “Fuji, Semi-Pro Sprayer” in order to paint. Before starting I removed EVERYTHING and taped EVERYTHING off using Frogtape.

Phase 3: Painting

As I said, I have all the details for my paint process (including the best primer EVER) available here. It is amazing the difference that simply priming the walls made. Everything looked so much bigger and brighter!

Once all the walls were primed and painted, it looked like it was a brand new Toy Hauler that was still in the assembly process. The walls looked, so modern and brand-spankin’ new.

While the original linoleum was in fairly good condition there was a little snag.  There was carpet in about 70% of the camper that needed to be removed.   I knew that matching the linoleum exactly would be nearly impossible so instead I replaced the flooring throughout using NuCore cork back flooring in the color “Morel”. 

Phase 4: Flooring

Phase 5: Replacing Furniture

The next hurdle in the living area was creating seating. The original sofa was beyond repair and would need to be completely replaced. I used the Ikea MORABO sofa in my last R.V. Makeover and loved it! The only snag in this situation is I needed a MUCH larger sofa. In this toy hauler, the dining area is actually in a back room/garage. Where as in the last camper I was working with a smaller space and trying to accommodate a dinette set. In this one I needed one very long sofa… and I had an idea.

“Why not just use TWO love seats and bolt them together?”, and that is just what I did! I purchased two love seats and removed the inside arms and bolted them together. It was so simple and it took all of 5 minutes to do.

After that I built a frame for them to sit on and small side tables to fill the space difference. (You can see all the details on this process, on my Instagram Stories here.)

Phase 6: Adding Practical Character

The last thing to complete the space was to add light sconces and curtains! The sconces are just standard light fixtures that I converted to R.V. standards by simply switching the light bulb! ( You can get the fixture here, and the light bulb here.) If you want any details about any of these project make sure you check out all of my Instagram Stories, where they are all saved to my highlights.

After the last R.V. makeover I have received a ton of requests for a curtain tutorial, so this time around I am happy to oblige! You can check out all the details here.

So here it is, the living area of the newly renovated toy hauler!

Let’s see that from another angle!

There you have it folks, the R.V./ Toy Hauler living area/sofa makeover! When we decided to tackle this Toy Hauler and sell our first camper I may have cried, but as this project is coming together I am so glad we did! This project is surpassing all my expectations and I am so excited to finish up the rest of this project! Check back soon for the dining room, bathroom, and master bedroom reveals!

Sources

• Frogtape
• Flooring- By-NuCore, Color- “Morel”
• Sofa- By Ikea, “MORABO” Loveseat (x2)
• Black and Leather Wall Sconce- Amazon
• 12 volt Light Bulbs- Amazon
• Wall Color- Sherwin Williams, “Repose Gray” lightened 50%
• Cabinet/Door Color- Sherwin Williams, ” Peppercorn”
• Flooring Cutter-
• Rug/Runner- T.J. Maxx
• Door Pulls- Square Matte Black Drawer pulls
• Sink Faucet- Matte Black Pull-down Faucet
• Throw Pillows- Last Season Target

If you are looking for more R.V. inspiration make sure you check out the rest of the Toy Hauler, and our first camper makeover. You can find all the links below.

• R.V. Makeover Painting with a roller
• R.V. Bathroom Makeover
• R.V. Sofa and Dinette Makeover
• R.V. Makeover Reveal
• R.V. Curtain Tutorial 
• Kitchen- Toy Hauler 
• Living Area- Toy Hauler (Coming Soon)
• Master Bedroom- Toy Hauler  (Coming Soon)
• Bathroom- Toy Hauler  (Coming Soon)
• Dining/Garage- Toy Hauler  (Coming Soon)

The post Toy Hauler/R.V. Makeover Sofa appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

We are currently in the midst of our second camper renovation. (You can see our first one here.) There have been plenty of decorative decisions to be made, but the fate of the R.V. curtains had already been decided. I made these curtains for our last R.V. and I absolutely loved them! Actually it would seem a ton of readers loved them, so I finally took the time to write up the process I used to create these R.V. curtains that add a ton of character.

Tools Used

• Rotary Cutter
• Cutting Mat
• Straight Edge
• Sewing Machine
• Upholstery Needle
• Straight Pins
• Drill
• Saw
• 1/8″ Drill Bit
• 1/4″ Drill Bit

Supplies Needed

• Drop Cloth
• Brass Lobster Clasp
• 3/4 Brass D- Rings
• 5/8″ Leather Strap – Amazon
• White String (Thin)
• DAP Rapid Fuse
• 1 1/4″ x 1/4″ Button Head Screws
• Gold Spray Paint
• Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint
• 1″x 2″ Select Prime Boards
• 3/4″ Dowel Rods

R.V. Curtain Panel Material

Measure the total width you would like your curtain to be. (I determined the width of mine by measuring the window and adding an additional 1 inch on each side to allow some overhang.)

Window Width” + Overhang “(Opt.) + 1.5″ Hem + 1.5” Hem = Fabric Width

Window Height ” + Over Hang “(Opt.) + 6.5″ Top Rod Pocket + 5” Dowel Rod Pocket = Fabric Height

After measuring, double, and triple checking we are ready to cut.  Before cutting any piece of fabric I like to iron the fabric.  When cutting large pieces of fabric I use a rotary cutter, a straight edge and cutting mat.  If you do not have access to these tools,  you can always use scissors, a tape measurement and all of your patience. 

R.V. Curtain: Side Hem

Once the fabric is cut establish the orientation of the curtain. We are going to being by hemming the sides of the curtains. (Not the top and bottom.)

When hemming the sides I turned over the edge 1/2″ and then ironed it to create a crease. After that I did this same process again, only this time I turned it down 1″ then ironed to solidify the fold.

Once the sides were both ironed down I proceeded to stitched the pressed hem. I stitched about 3/4″ from the edge on the front side of the curtain. I repeated this on both sides of the curtain.

R.V. Curtain: Top Hem (1×2 Pocket)

Next up is the top pocket that will house the 1 x 2″ board that will serve as the curtain rod.

To do this I turned down the top of the fabric 1/2″ and ironed the fold to create a crease.

I then turned down the fabric an additional 3″ from the edge of the iron crease, pinned in place, and then ironed again. This will be the pocket that the 1×2″ board will slide in.

Once securely pinned, flip front side facing up and stitch approximately 2 3/4″ inches from the edge of the fabric. (This will be stitching the fold shut.)

R.V. Curtains: Bottom Hem (Rod Pocket)

Next I hemmed the bottom edge while also creating a pocket that would house the dowel rod. I first measured 1 1/2″ from the edge of the fabric, folded up and used and iron to crease the fabric.

I then repeated the same step again, folded up 1 1/2″ from the bottom hem and then used an iron to crease the fabric.

Once the hem/pocket was precisely measured and crisply ironed I flipped it front side facing up and ran it through my sewing machine. I stitched approximately 1 1/4″ from the bottom crease. This will create a long pocket for the dowel rod to slide into.

R.V. Curtains: Straps

Next up, the straps that will hold the rolled up curtains in place! This is my second camper that I have used this method in and I love it! I have also looked high and low for different options when it comes to hardware and straps and I finally found my favorites. I ordered these leather straps online. The straps are originally 72″ long, I found that I could get two full curtains from one 72″ roll of leather strips. So, I cut the strap into 4 equal parts, creating x4 strips roughly 18″ long.

Once the straps were cut I headed out to the work shop. While it is possible to sew through a leather strap with a lot of effort and patience, I opted for an easier route… a drill. I turned the strap over on itself and using an 1/8″ drill bit I drilled two sets of holes. I did this on both ends of each strap. So there should be a total of 8 holes in each strap, 4 on each end. (See images below for clarification.)

Once all the holes were drilled I was ready to secure the “D-Ring“. Again I searched all over and I found these antique brass ones online. In order to sew these d-rings in place, I used an upholstery needle and some thick thread (Cross-stich floss should do the trick). Below I show the steps I used to sew the d-rings in place.

Once all the d-rings are secured on one end of the strap it is time to install the brass lobster clasp on the opposing end.

Pro tip: I like to secure the final knot with just a dab of DAP RapidFuse glue. It ensures that the knot, and the hardware aren’t going anywhere after all of that hard work!

R.V. Curtains: Installing Rod

Next up the “curtain rod”. Not really are curtain rod at all, but it is the system by which the curtain panel will hang. For this I used a standard prime 1×2 pine board. To determine the length of my board I measured the finished width of my curtains and added 3 inches. (Allowing 1.5″ to be exposed on both sides.)

Before installing pick a stain or paint color of your choosing. I opted for Briarsmoke by Varathane. (You can stain the whole board but only the last few inches on either end will be exposed.)

Once the stain was dry, I used a 1/4″ drill bit to pre-drill a hole through the ends of both boards. I placed mine approximately 3/4″ from the end of the board centered. I did this on both ends.

Prepping Install Hardware

At this point the board can be installed using your own choice of faster. I wanted mine to have a vintage industrial vibe so I opted for a large button head screw and utilized some spray paint.

If you want to achieve that vintage brass look for your R.V. curtains, here is what I did. I sprayed all my screws with Rustoleum Metallic Finish Gold Paint, once it was dry I lightly dusted the gold screws with a spritz of Oil Rubbed Bronze. It seemed to do the trick and was a nice match for the d-rings and lobster clasps I used on the curtain straps.

Once the 1×2″ board is dry, slide it into the top (wider pocket). If all your calculations are done properly, the 1×2″ board should hang about of the pocket with about 1 1/2″ exposed on both sides.

In order to prevent the curtain panel from shifting on the board I used small screws to hold the straps and the r.v. curtain panel in place.

Using a drill drive the screws through the 1×2″ board into the the wall. (Depending on what type of wall/placement you may need to enlist the help of a mollie to help secure the curtain in place.) 

Last thing you need for these R.V. curtains is to slide the bottom dowel in place.

In my opinion these are the perfect option for a R.V. curtains! They are low profile and still add a lot of character to an otherwise bland space. In general there aren’t that many places you can add decor to a camper, so this is a great way to add some pizzaz!

Looking for more inspiration? Make sure you check out the rest of this toy hauler renovation and our first camper makeover below.

• R.V. Makeover Painting with a roller
• R.V. Bathroom Makeover
• R.V. Sofa and Dinette Makeover
• R.V. Makeover Reveal
• Kitchen- Toy Hauler
• Living Area- Toy Hauler (Coming Soon)
• Master Bedroom- Toy Hauler (Coming Soon)
• Bathroom- Toy Hauler (Coming Soon)
• Dining/Garage- Toy Hauler (Coming Soon)

The post How to: R.V. Curtains appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

 I feel like it was only yesterday that I said that I never, ever, ever wanted to makeover over another camper ever again.  EVER.

It was almost a year ago that I completed our first camper makeover and yet here I am, working on another.  Truth be told,  we LOVED our first  camper and I may have cried  when we sold it.  However, after having our first camper for a year  we realized we may have rushed into the first one and we really wanted a few other features.

You see, we are a motorsport loving family and we really wanted to combine our two loves of camping and four-wheeling. So we sold our first camper and invested in a toy hauler.

So let me show you the kitchen in the new toy hauler!   This toy hauler was a great deal, but it did have quite a few issues, and the images definitely make it look better than it actually was.  ( I really wish there was a way to do a “before” and “after” smell, but let me tell you , it was rough and completely gutting this thing was entirely necessary.) 

To begin,  I removed all the doors, hinges and light fixtures that I did not want covered in  paint.  ( With this R.V. makeover I decided to use a paint sprayer instead of rolling it.) 

Cleaning Surfaces

Before you even think about picking up a paint brush there are several necessary steps that must be made in order to achieve a positive painting experience. Once all the doors and hardware are removed it is time  to clean every paintable square inch of this sucker!   I used Dawn Heavy Duty soap and warm water. I made sure I was extremely thorough with this step.   I used abrasive sponges, and once I was positive there was zero oils or grime remaining I went over it with a clean damp rag. It is all about the prep work people!  

After everything was throughly wiped down I prepped for sanding.  I  realize there maybe differing opinions when it comes to the order of washing vs. sanding.  Here is my take,  I want to wipe off as much of the stains and grease as possible.  Reason being,  the more I can get off with soap the less aggressive I need to be about sanding, ALSO you can actually grind and set stains further into a surface when sanding.  So I opt to clean throughly first, then sand,  then a light wipe down.  

Sanding

When sanding you do not need to be overly aggressive.  The goal is to simply rough it up enough to remove the glossy sheen. By scuffing up the shiny surface we are preparing the surface to be receptive to our primer.  Just be meticulous and scuff up every surface!

When sanding you can use either an electric sander or a hand sander. I prefer using an electric sander on the large flat  surfaces and hand sponge sander for any small crevices or curved surfaces.  Again, the goal is to simply get rid of the glossy sheen. 

Final Wipe Down

Once all the surfaces are completely scrubbed and sanded it is ready for a final wipe down. I typically go through with my shop vac using a bristle attachment and throughly vacuum every surface. Once I have vacuumed up all the dust I go over all the surfaces with a damp cloth. Yes, this is kind of meticulous work, but it will be worth it in the end, I promise.

Taping

As I stated earlier, I will be using a sprayer . Because I will be using a sprayer  I needed to take a little bit of extra time to tape off any surface that I did not want to get painted,  ie:  countertops,  windows, fridge, etc. 

Priming

 I found a primer that I am in LOVE with.  It is a little pricey but worth its weight in gold.  It is Kilz Adhesion primer. I checked all of my local big box store and was unable to locate it.  After reading raving reviews online I had to give it a try.  I  ordered mine online and I DO NOT REGRET IT,  I highly recommend it.

Using my Fuji “Semi-Pro” I sprayed nearly every exposed surface of the R.V. including the ceiling! On this R.V. makeover I decided to paint the interior of the cabinets. I did not do it on my last R.V. Makeover and I always regretted it. It definitely takes some extra time, but it is totally worth it.

After priming a surface I typically will go over the dried primer with a “fine” sanding sponge to remove any rough patches of primer. (If you are spraying with a decent sprayer you can normally skip this step.) However, if you are painting by hand I would highly recommend you do a once over with a sponge sander followed by a damp cloth. This small additional step can make a HUGE difference in your final product.

Painting Ceiling and Walls

Once my primer was completely dry (see your primer for specific guidelines) I was able to move on to the painting portion of this endeavor. The purpose of this tutorial is more pointed towards painting the kitchen cabinets, but here is a quick re-cap of what I did to the walls and ceiling. BEFORE painting my cabinets.

Ceiling: I prepped the ceiling the same way I did the walls and the cabinets. It was thoroughly cleaned, sanded, wiped down, and primed. There really isn’t any special way to paint the ceiling, you can use a roller or a sprayer. I used the a sprayer and had it done in no time. On the ceilings I used “Ultra Pure White” by Behr.

Walls: Again, the walls were prepped the same way as the cabinets. They were thoroughly cleaned, sanded, wiped down and primed. I also used my sprayer to apply the paint to the walls. The only surface I needed to protect from paint at this point was the ceiling. This can easily be done with painters tape and painters paper. I sprayed all the walls with “Repose Gray” (lightened 50%) by Sherwin Williams.

Painting Cabinets

The plan for the cabinets was to create a two tone look, using a darker color on the base units and white on the uppers. Seeing as I was using a sprayer and the overspray dust will settle I decided to start with the upper cabinets.

The upper cabinets are painted “Ultra Pure White” by Behr. (Yes, I definitely planned for the ceiling to be the same shade of white. It is easy for any future touch-ups AND I didn’t need to worry about cutting in, or taping off my cabinets where they meet the ceiling.

Honestly, the actual painting portion of refinishing cabinets is the easy part. The prep work is what seems to take forever. I ended up spraying two coats of Ultra Pure White on my uppers. Once they were dry I was able to tape them off using yellow Frogtape. ( It is a painters tape intended to freshly painted surfaces!)

Once the freshly painted upper cabinets were protected with yellow Frogtape and painters paper I proceeded to spray the lower cabinets. On the base cabinets I used “Peppercorn” by Sherwin Williams. Again, I used my Fuji “Semi-Pro” sprayer and was able to get a perfect finish with just two coats.

Cabinet Doors

  All the above steps also applies to the cabinet doors. Wash with strong cleaner, rinse well,  sand/scuff, wipe down.  If at all possible I like to set up my cabinet doors to be painted in separate room.  I set up a small spray shelter in my garage so that I could continue to use a sprayer to apply the primer and the paint. 

Again, I did two coats of primer on both sides of the doors, followed by two coats of paint on both sides of the doors.

If you have cabinets that are in less than stellar condition I might suggest caulking the paneling. You can get all the details on how I did this in my last camper renovation here.

Backsplash

If you hadn’t noticed, I purposefully did NOT paint the backsplash.  There is a reason for that, I planned on applying a peel and stick  backsplash.  I did something similar in my last R.V. makeover and had great success.  However, I did make one change this time around, I opted for a larger subway tile. After a few trial and error purchases I found this “Peel and Stick Subway Tile”  and I love it!

While the adhesive on the back of most peel and stick tiles it pretty good, I have yet to find one that can withstand the constant movement that an R.V. wall experiences when driving down the road. The peel and stick just needed a little bit of reinforcements, I used Weldwood Contact Cement and I have had ZERO problems. You can see how I did it on my last camper here.

Finishing Touches

Once all the cabinet doors, and units were completely dry I was able to re-install all the doors using their original hinges. The original pulls were in decent condition, but I firmly believe that sometimes small changes can make huge impacts. That was the case with the kitchen hardware. I found these great Square Matte Black Drawer pulls online that give this kitchen an updated look.

The last investment I made in the kitchen was swapping out the existing faucet with this gorgeous Matte Black Pull-down Faucet. This small upgrade unifies the entire space. Honestly, does it even look like an R.V. kitchen? I submit that it does not!

Alright folks, there you have it another successful R.V. Kitchen Makeover! There is still plenty to be done and I cannot wait to share the rest of this makeover soon. So check back soon because I promise, it is going to be good!

Sources-

• Painters Tape- Green Frogtape
• Delicate Painters Tape- Yellow Frogtape
• Paint Sprayer- Fuji “Semi-Pro” HVLP Sprayer
• Primer- Kilz Adhesion
• Base Cabinet Paint- Sherwin Williams “Peppercorn”
• Upper Cabinet Paint Color- Behr “Ultra Pure White”
• Backsplash Adhesive – Weldwood Contact Cement
• Subway Backsplash- Peel and Stick Subway Tile
• Door Pulls- Square Matte Black Drawer pulls
• Sink Faucet- Matte Black Pull-down Faucet
• Rug Runner- T.J. Maxx
• Hanging Plants- Target Dollar Spot
• Flooring- NuCore “Morel”

The post Toy Hauler/R.V. Kitchen Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

In the event you are just joining us you might want to start at the very beginning of this journey.

R.V. Makeover Painting Process

R.V. Bathroom Makeover

R.V. Dinette and Sofa Makeover

This thing is ready to go, and that’s exactly what I plan to do!  Truth be told, as soon as I finish writing this final installment of the Camper Makeover Journey I will be packing  to take this little gem out for a camping trip! So, not only am I anxious to dive right in, but I also have things  I need to be prepping. So without further ado,  I give you the camper makeover reveal!

For comparison sake, let’s enjoy how far this camper has really come. 
Here is the new and improved sofa and dinette  area.   If you want to read more about this process you can get more details in regards to the custom furniture! 


 In case you missed it,  you might want to check out how I turned two standard ottomans into this awesome dinette set. 
Complete with hidden storage, booyah!

Would you believe this table is made using the leftover flooring? (Read more about that here.) Yup, and it is awesome, and waterproof.  Winning!




The kitchen I think was the best bang for my buck scenario. With a little bit of paint, a lot of elbow grease and some peel-and-stick tile this kitchenette is unrecognizable!  (You can read all about the paint process here.)

Isn’t  it beautiful? Yes.  Yes, it is. Now for the bathroom.   This thing was gross, and so I felt it completely necessary to recover every single surface in the entire room, and I did.  Did you know you can paint tubs?  Well you can and I  share all the fun details in regards to this bathroom makeover here.

One of the smaller areas that did not require much work was the kids bunks.   I ended up adding shiplap the front panel, and making custom curtains using track systems I purchased on Amazon.   I did end up replacing the kids mattresses,  because they were disgusting.  I ended up purchasing these mattresses and used an electric bread knife to trim them down to size.
 I even added a some wire baskets to keep their books and personal items. Last but not least, the “master bedroom”.   This space was mostly renovated in the “painting” phase.  I added shiplap around the base of the bed, and created small nightstands  using the excess flooring as table tops. Of course it also needed a new mattress, because eww… Lastly, I added a few homemade curtains for additional privacy and this area was all set!   ( The bedding and pillows were purchased at Target.)

Of course all the finishing touches like the signs and curtains are made by yours truly!  If you are interested in seeing more behind the scene details I highly encourage you to check out my Instagram Stories here.

Well folks,  that concludes  this saga.  It was a LOT of hard work and I am sure it will all be worth it.  Time to go put this beauty to work.

Thanks for following along  and Take Luck!

Corey

Just in case you are really curious, here are some side by side  before and afters. Enjoy!

The post R.V. Makeover Reveal appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all!  Thanks for sticking with me on this crazy little makeover journey, and hey if you are just joining us, WELCOME! As most of you know I have been working on this project around the clock.  I have teamed up with the great folks at DAP and many of their awesome products to make this project possible. If you haven’t already checked out the initial “R.V. Paint Makeover”  then I suggest you start there and work your way towards the “R.V. Bathroom Makeover”, then you are pretty much caught up!  Today  I am sharing how I took a gutted R.V., and then built my own custom furniture to outfit it.

Camper Sofa

When we gutted the camper I had originally planned on reupholstering the original couch myself.  Well, if you have been reading along you know that those plans quickly changed. ( I don’t know how on earth the “gentleman” that sold us the camper masked the smell while we checked it out,  but  I HAVE got to find out what he used, because it smelled just fine. By the next day our gag reflexes were kicking in when we walked anywhere near it was then the idea of keeping the original sofa went out the window.) So the couch went to the dump and I went to IKEA.  I needed something as light as possible,  somewhat small in size, and if possible budget friendly.  IKEA by nature seems to accommodate all of those requirements.  I am happy to report I did end up finding this couch that would more or less fit the bill.  There was one other sofa (Karlstad), similar in size and was cheaper but I loved the dark color of the “Landskrona“.

 Instead of just putting this couch in a place and somehow anchoring , I decided to take a more labor intensive route that I hoped would be worth the work! (Spoiler Alert: It was!) I wanted to make this look like a built-inland not like an after-thought. To do that I built it up so that it would appear to be on a platform. By doing this it would still be lightweight and create plenty of space for storage underneath!    I built very simple legs out of 3/4″ plywood.  Again, the goal here is to just elevate it without adding too much weight.   This option was perfection. It fit plenty of storage, and should we ever choose to,  it would accommodate another twin size foam mattress. NICE!  So I have my platform, and it is functional, but now I want to make it look like it was a built-in.
 I was racking my brain trying to figure out a super impressive way to make this work.  I had considered hinges and glide and many other contraptions, but then  my inner voice of reason chimed in. “It doesn’t always have to be time consuming to be effective!” So,  I just ripped a piece of paneling to fit, and attached a small board that would serve as a stabilizer to the panel.  This was such a simple fix and yet SO effective. I just  used some Rapid Fuse and it was done in 20 mins, start to finish! 
The last thing I needed to factor in, was how to keep it in place.  Again, my brain went straight to different mechanisms that I could use to make this work,  but again I rested to my “simple is best” (in this case).   I found some magnets in the craft section and used Rapid Fuse to glue them to the back of my cover panel and also to the support/legs of my sofa. Easy peasy! All of that storage makes my heart happy.  It will make for easy loading and unloading, and of course it will stay a bit more organized! 

Camper Dinette/ Benches

Next on the agenda, was the part that had me scratching my head.  I needed to replace the dinette set.  Again,  the original upholstery had to go,  so  I was starting  at ground zero.  Once I had found the couch I was going to use in the camper I started searching high and low for a fabric that would work for the dinette set. I was having a hard time getting excited about any of it, because…  I have a secret.  I may indeed be titled “Sawdust 2 STITCHES” but I truly hate sewing. I can do it, but I really, really prefer not.  So  I dragged my feet for a while.  Then one day I was considering some options and I had a “light bulb” moment.  What about an ottoman for the seating ?! Once the idea was stuck in my head it started to snowball.  I ended up finding a few different options on Amazon.  I ordered two different styles that I thought would work, and it was a miracle one of the styles was nearly a perfect match!  So those ones  I kept, the others were sent back.

So,  I put them in the camper and basked in the fact that they matched so well.  But the more I looked at them, the more they bothered me.  I had done so much work to make this camper look amazing, and here I was about to just toss in some seating. That simply isn’t me at all!?  Who even was I?! So, in true Corey fashion I started playing around with a more complicated idea. What if I were to use the upholstered lid, and create something a little more custom!?  Have you ever wondered where my tagline “where we can’t leave well-enough alone”?  Well, now you know. So I began breaking down my new ottomans and using them for parts.  The base I knew I could build easily… it was the fabric and the upholstered hinged storage lid that I really wanted to utilize.  I even reused the boards that made up the base  again!  The only thing that changed is that I needed  to build an internal bone structure for the the boxes.   Where as before the ottoman relied on the fabric to hold it together. Yet again I was faced with the challenge of creating  a sturdy  yet super light weight piece of  furniture.   As a “builder” I find I tend to “overbuild” everything. So creating a bench using paneling and 1″x 1″ boards  gave me slight heart palpitations. If you want to see more about the process, you can see my InstaStories here.
 Seeing as I was building this matchstick style, I wanted to give it as much strength without adding a lot of weight. In order to do that, I upped my adhesives game. I used both Rapid Fuse and DAP Wood Glue before fastening the structure together.  Can I just tell you how pleasantly surprised  I was at how sturdy these little benches are!?
Once the bases were built I moved on to the back supports.  Again, I needed to keep this LIGHT, so I had to get a little creative.   I used  1″x 1″ boards to make a skeleton (With a few strategically placed 1″x3″ boards so that I could attach my upholstered back (keep reading). Using my glue up trick, I was able to make a very STURDY and light weight frame that I would be able to attach paneling to.   Once the backs were attached I moved on to the aesthetic’s of this project.  I wanted this to look built-in.  So, I decided to tie in the look I created in the master bedroom of the camper. (You can see all the details here) I wanted to carry the Faux Shiplap from the front room, and though the living area and dining area. Also, by adding shiplap to the benches it would also give it a little more structural strength without adding a significant amount of weight.

When adding shiplap I DO like to use adhesive.  From past projects I have found that DAP DYNAGRIP works great!  (If you want to see a more detailed tutorial of my process to shiplap you can read all about it here.) Once all the shiplap was in place I needed to complete the look by trimming it out.  I SWEAR it is in these last few detail oriented steps that  projects truly start to look professional!  I always like to trim the corner of pieces and then I follow up with a thin bead of caulk.  Once the piece is painted it creates a flawless look!  I am telling you, caulk is the Magic Eraser of the DIY world.  I like to use Alex Fast Dry,  it has a great finish, is easy to work with and of course you can’t beat a 20 minute dry time!  

Next  I needed to add some sort of back padding. Remember that extra pice of fabric I tore off the base of my ottoman?  Well this is where that fabric will come into play. Using the ottoman seat (pictured left) as a template I mapped out “tufts” ( the small indent of the fabric) onto  a piece of paneling.I then using a drill bit to create small holes where I wanted to create tufts. I then added foam to the front side of the support/panel. I have found that the cheapest way to do this is to purchase an inexpensive foam mattress topper!  I picked mine up for around $9.00 at Walmart!  I had enough to do both back supports with plenty to spare.  I then pulled my extra fabric from the base of the ottoman tightly around the framed panel and stapled it  in place.  Now, you could easily leave the  back support as is, but I wanted to add the tufts so that it would match the seat.  To do that I used and upholstery needle and did a few stitches through the pre-drilled holes in the back.   I used a small piece of wood to hold the stitch taught. If you watch my InstaStories I go into a little more detail concerning the process. 

Camper Table 

Now that the dining area benches were completed I moved my sights towards the table.

If you recall in my last post regarding the camper,  I gave the nightstands in the camper bedroom a little facelift.  I ended up using extra floor boards as the table top, and it worked great!  So I decided to execute the same idea on a little bit bigger scale,  I would use flooring on my dinette table top.  To do that all I needed to do was determine my desired over all dimension and then subtract 1.5″.  This 1.5″ would allow me to band the edges with a 1″x 2″ board.   I used a 1/2″ board as my table base. Once I had it cut to the aforementioned dimensions I drilled pocket holes around the bottom side of the perimeter.  (This will allow me to attach the edge band later.)
 Next is the easy part, making this simple piece of plywood look like a custom table!   I simply glued the flooring to the board.  Yup,  it’s that easy! Using a paint brush I  I brushed on a even coast of DAP Weldwood Contact Cement over the area that I would be placing my first board/flooring.
Once the initial piece of flooring/board was in place I proceeded to paint on more of the Weldwood,  and then added my second piece of flooring as if I were laying it on the floor.  The flooring type I chose was click and lock and it is also waterproof so it would work great for the table top.  Continue repeating the steps until your entire table surface is covered.   I  purposefully made sure to have flooring overhang on both sides so  that I could trim  down all the sides and it would be flush with my plywood board. 
 I just used my tablesaw to cut off any excess board and it gave me a nice flush  edge.  I then banded it with a 1″x 2″ board.  After playing around with some layered stains I was able to get a color that closely matched the table top.  I then proceeded to stained all my 1″x 2″ boards and allowed them to dry.
Once they were dry I attached them around the perimeter of the table using DAP Wood Glue and the pocket holes  I drilled earlier. This will not only give it a finished edge but also give the table top some support and rigidity. 

Now that the table top was complete I was able to move on to the legs/support.  The tricky thing about working in a camper is that you cannot necessarily rely on the wall to support any weight. So I had to get creative with the leg situation.  My goal was to have as little under the table (as far as supports) so that we wouldn’t constantly be kicking or hitting them when we were sitting at the table.  So I created a table leg that would attach to the wall, but  all the weight of the table top would be resting on the floor.   I attached the leg/support directly to the wall.  Again, you cannot really rely on the camper wall holding weight independently, but with a handful of screws I felt confident that it would easily keep the leg securely fixed to the wall.   I designed the support so that the lip (the 1″x 2″ board  I banded the edge of the table with) would sit on the inside of the the top of the wall support.  It worked perfectly!  All the weight of table rested on the floor, and the wall mounted support was low profile and very sturdy!  WINNING! As awesome as my wall mount support was, I would still need at least one other point of support.  I just added a very simple straight leg using  a plate made to fit said leg.   Just screw the plate in place and then screw in the leg to the plate.  The one word of advise I would give… I did add a pokethole to the base/backside of  my leg.  Once I had the table in place and the leg of the table centered I secured the table leg to the floor via the pocket hole.  It worked great and the table is completely secure even if someone were to kick the table leg.  Isn’t it a beauty!?  This table cleans up perfectly, can take a beating and matches everything PERFECTLY! When you couple a gorgeous  cost effective table, with awesome storage seating, I’d say you have a pretty dang awesome dinette set!? So let’s take a real quick look at what we originally started with, shall we?

Now look how far it has come !?

Amazing right?! But guess what!?  I still have a few tricks up my sleeve and still need to add some finishing touches so stay tuned for the reveal coming soon!

Thanks so much for reading along.

Take Luck,

Corey

The post R.V. Dinette and Sofa Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

If you have been following the process of the R.V. Makeover then you are probably aware of the funky smell situation it had going on.  I did what I could to remove absolutely everything that wasn’t nailed down. Scratch that,  I removed everything that was nailed down too. My goal was  to get down to “ground zero”. In doing it DID seem to eliminate a majority of the aroma, and it just made me feel better to start from scratch.  Well,  when it came to the R.V. Bathroom Makeover things were a bit more complicated.  I couldn’t simply remove everything and paint everything like I had in the rest of the R.V…. or could I?? Whether I could/should, I decided  I was going for it, I teamed up with the great folks at DAP and gave it hell!

If you have been following the process of the  R.V. makeover then you may recall the original origins of the bathroom.   I know it is not my place to judge… but when I am scrubbing a situation like this and my gag reflex is kicking in,  I found it really hard not too. :/ Don’t worry. I humbled myself back down… but seriously how hard is it to clean your shower once a year!?  Ok,  I’m done I promise. 

Full disclosure: I kind of cheated in the timeline of this makeover. The majority of the bathroom makeover took place at the same time the rest of the camper was in “Phase One”. Sorry if I loose authenticity cred, but  I hate painting and I was not about to start that dreadful process all over again.

I began by taking it down to bare bones.  The light fixtures, cabinet doors, shower curtains, flooring, toilet… yup the toilet had to go!  I fully realize that the photos don’t fully emphasis how truly heinous this room was, but believe me, it was awful.  As I was pulling the R.V. apart I started to find lots of  reflags that indicated the type of lifestyle that inhabited this camper. In good conscious I could NOT keep the original toilet. I consider myself a tough girl, but I just couldn’t.  It made me feel a bit of relief when my husband was completely supportive of this idea. (Complete reassurance in my tolerance and toughness.) However I was a little terrified about the potential price tag. If you have ever price out anything for an R.V.  then you know that it is highway robbery for specialty pieces. THANKFULLY it turned out to be a fairly quick and reasonably cost effective upgrade. We found ours on Amazon, and I do not regret it!

Once everything was out I followed the same process explained in “Phase One”  in regards to painting. (If you want to hear more about how I went about  it, and learn from my mishaps make sure you check it out.) Make sure you take the time to really scrub,  sand, and rinse thoroughly before you even begin contemplating priming!  They built these suckers to be extremely washable, which also means shiny and slick, and MY CAMPER did not like to take paint on the cabinets. ( In all my research I have yet to find another DIYer that had this problem so don’t freak out,  just proceed with caution, and do your prep work!)

By the end of “Phase One” of the R.V. makeover I was left with a bathroom looking a little like this.  The cabinets and the walls had a fresh coat of paint,  nice clean flooring, and a NEW TOILET!!!! Woohoo. While the space was look infinitely better,  it still wasn’t quite there.  Next to the brand new white toilet, and freshly painted cabinets the shower and the sink were looking very yellow…  so I thought I would try something new. Why not refinish the shower/tub and sink?  So I pulled out the sink in the kitchen and in the bathroom and prepped them for a makeover as well. Once it was scrubbed sanded and prepped for  paint. I taped off anything I thought necessary.


I have never used “Tub and Tile” by Rustoleum before, but it seemed to  do the trick. It is a fairly straightforward process. It is a two-part system, and seemed to cover well.  The only advice I can give is follow the directions on the can to the “T”, and work quickly! Have everything  prepped properly, because I did notice that the  mixture did seem to get tacky very quickly!   Work fast, and try not to “over-work” it or it will create a bumpy surface.

I can not tell you how much painting the tub and sink changed my out look on the entire project, it was so light and bright! Once everything was dry I reinstalled the sink and added new hardware! I was able to find a set that was reasonably priced to replace the shower head and the sink faucet. SUCH A BIG DIFFERENCE!!!

When working in a space like a bathroom it is REALLY important to make sure that anything that will be susceptible to water be sealed well!  As I said earlier,   I did have to remove  what was left of the original caulk, so after the paint was cured I did have to properly seal it. To do this you need to compare different types of caulk.  The majority of the time that I use caulk it is to finish trim work that will be painted.  When trying to seal off water it requires something a little bit stronger.  I prefer to use DAP Premium 100% Silicone. There are many options for kitchen and  baths, but again I was working in a R.V.  that will be constantly moving!  I needed an option that would create a waterproof seal and would remain flexible.  Bonus: this one is water resistant in 30 mins!  I also used this to re-intall the sink after it dried, and it will prevent water from seeping under the edge of the sink and ruining the cabinet and anything stored in it. 

At this point the bathroom was looking pretty good.  A fresh coat of paint on literally every surface, and a new toilet.  I was feeling pretty good about life, but the party was just getting started.  I was about to take this R.V. bathroom makeover to the next level.  It was not only going to be a vast improvement, it was quite literally be prettier than any bathroom currently in my home. (Yeah, the bathrooms are on my to-do list.)

It is no secret I am a big fan of subway tile.  I have full intentions of using it in some, (if not all) of my interior bathrooms.  However, I have the whole “light weight”  and need for flexibility caveat I have been so exhaustively working around. Tile is neither light weight, or flexible by any means. So, I had to work around it. In my research I came across a peel-and-stick alternative. I  have heard others using  a flooring variety and had great success,  so I started to investigate further. After looking around the world wide web,  I was able to find a subway tile that I liked.   I read the reviews…  they were not really negative, but there were some reviews stating that some of the corners began to”lift” over time which sent me into a panic. So I started playing around with some ideas, and I have a real winner!

Why not glue it down? I started doing my research and found a great solution. DAP makes a  contact cement that fit the bill perfectly!  It is a basically a super strong rubber cement textured glue. It was thin enough to apply it on with a paintbrush but strong enough for a permanent flexible hold! So instead of applying the peel-and-stick tiles as directed,  I first painted the wall with DAP “Weldwood”.   I worked in small sections, and covered the entire area with adhesive before installing.  Let me tell you,  it is a FAST BOND.  This stuff dried quickly and keeps a flexible bond, which of course is important due to the nature of this project.  My only caution to this project is take your time! When applying your tiles,  take your time and make sure you have everything lined up properly the first time.  This stuff has a nearly instant bond!   I would suggest  drawing a straight line utilizing a tape measure  and a straight edge (no levels in a camper… there is a chance your r.v. isn’t on level ground to begin with) and making sure you use that line as well as the proceeding tile as your guide.

Once I had the first two in, I had the knack of it. (Another suggestion, if you have the ability to start in an inconspicuous area,  I would start there!) I don’t say that to scare you, it’s not a hard project,  I just wish I had thought to  work out the kinks in the application process before diving right in. 

Once the first row was in,  I was on a roll!  These tiles are easy to cut to fit any space,  I just used a my rotary cutter and a straight edge!

 I even had enough that I was able to use it in the little cubby space above my shelf.  (This would have been a great place to try it out,  but I wasn’t sure how  much waste I was going to have. )I loved this look so much that I actually used it as a backsplash in the kitchen. In the kitchen I opted for the white, and I love it!  My only hesitation/warning: It is not recommended for high heat.  I plan on making a “workstation” that will sit over my range while not in use, and I plan to lean it up against the backsplash when it is in use (creating heat).  I have already tested the theory and it worked out perfectly.

Once the backsplash was in I just reinstalled the cabinet doors and the cabinet/vanity and I was nearly done!   I have been working on a few details for the GRAND REVEAL.  Some of those details do include new curtains  for the shower.  I am sewing a custom one using the existing track and hardware. But until then, let’s take  a look at some awesome before and after photos!

 Thanks so much for following along on this crazy little project and stay tuned I have a lot more coming!  If you want to see more of the process hop on over to my Instagram account where I share daily updates in my Instagram “Stories”.  I have also saved all of my stories concerning this makeover in my highlights labeled “R.V.”

 Thanks so much for reading!

Take luck,

Corey

Source List:

Replacement Toilet 

Tub and Tile Refinishing Kit 

R.V. Faucet and Shower Set 

DAP Premium Bath and Kitchen Caulk 

Peel-and-Stick Tiles 

Tile Adhesive (WeldWood) 

Wall Paint Color – Sherwin Williams “Repose Gray” (lightened 25%)

Cabinet Base Color – Behr “Ultra Pure White” Semi Gloss

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