Who needs more organization and storage in their life? While all my cupboards (for the most part) are organized, the original design plan of my home sometimes baffles me. For instance, I have this teeny tiny closet in my kitchen that has so much untapped potential, there is plenty of dead space that could be utilized! What’s a girl to do? Optimize it!  Today I am teaming up with The Home Depot to show you how I replaced my builder grade pantry closet with the custom built-in pantry of my dreams!

  Tools Suggested 

• Safety Glasses 
• Hearing Protection
• Tape Measure 
• Miter Saw/Circular Saw
• Finish Sander
• Drill/Driver
• Pocket Hole Jig 
• Table Saw or Router 
• Wood Glue 
• Clamps 
• Pry Bar 
• Hammer
• Oscillating Tool 

  Materials Used 

• Stain, or paint of choice.
• 1 ¼” Pocket Hole Screws  
• (x11) 1x3x8 Board(s) 
• (x5) ¾”  Plywood 
• (x1) ¼” Paneling/Plywood 
• (x4) 1x2x8 Boards 
• (x1) ¼” Back Panel 
• (x5) Drawer Pulls 
• (x6) ½” overlay Concealed Hinges 
• (x8) 22” Ball-bearing Drawer Slides
• Edge Banding
• 2×4
• Baseboard

Purchase Materials

While it is not a HARD project it is a LARGE one.  I have painstakingly drafted build plans and written detailed instructions to help you through the building part, and The Home Depot can help you with all the heavy lifting!  

Before we can even delve into the project, we need to first tackle our first hurdle… getting all the materials home.  In the past I would wait until “date night” when my husband and I would take a trip to The Home Depot to help me load full sheets of ¾” plywood… while Andy and I still frequent The Home Depot, I no longer HAVE to wait for Friday night to start a project!  Did you know that The Home Depot offers curbside pickup?   Yes, they will pull your order and have it ready to go and will help you load up. It’s like projects to go! You can place your order online or in their mobile app. I prefer using their app. 

Just place your order and look for an email letting you know when and where you can pick up your order.  It is that simple! 

While I definitely NEEDED curbside help with my large orders, The Home Depot also helps with the small things too.  Let’s say for instance you are in the middle of a project and run out of … screws, The Home Depot is here to help!  Did you know that many Home Depot stores offer same-day pickup?  I put in an order for screws using my app and was alerted (normally in two hours or less) that my order was ready and waiting for me at The Home Depot Lockers!

Yup, many of The Home Depot stores offer contactless pickup! It is so simple. First locate the item you need using their app or online. If you are using their app I LOVE the image product locator. Yes that’s right! Do you ever find your self in need of a part, but are not entirely positive you know what it is called? The Home Depot can help with that too!

I can safely say my locker pickup was my fastest Home Depot trip ever. I was out of my truck for about 1.5 minutes and then I was back on the road. Just another reason to love The Home Depot. 

Now that you are better equipped and ready to take on any project, big or small, let’s get started! 

If you would like complete build plans for this cabinet, they are available here:

Prep Materials-

 When working on a large project I prefer to cut and sand all of my boards before assembling. (it makes life a little easier when applying paint/stain.) 

Assemble Base Unit- 

Regardless if you are using my build plans, or creating your own cabinet begin by assembling the cabinet “carcass” (a term used by builders in reference to the body of a cabinet). 

Add Desired Shelves- 

 When designing my pantry I knew that I wanted plenty of drawer storage, along with pull out shelves. One thing to keep in mind when adding the shelves, the ply on the end of the boards will be exposed unless you either, support the ledge with a 1×2” or use edge banding on the exposed edge. I prefer the latter option. 

Build Face Frame- 

A face frame is not always necessary for cabinets, in fact many cabinets are frameless.  However due to the nature of this project I needed to use a face frame.  In most cases the face frame is flush with the outside of the cabinet, in this case the face frame was made to sit flush with the interior of the cabinet. The reason?  With the face frame hanging out over the side of the cabinet it will allow a little wiggle room when installing this in the wall.  This project will require me to cut into my drywall and this face frame will cover the cut drywall and create a flawless look. 

Assemble/Install Boxes

 The best part of replacing a closet with a pantry is the endless drawer possibilities!  With the limited entry space of a closet there was no way I could efficiently use drawers.  I LOVE drawers and I added a ton of them.  However, if drawers don’t speak to you, you can always opt for easy shelving instead.

Build/Install Doors and Drawer Fronts

Again, if you are looking for specific dimensions, I have full build plans available here.    If you love my style you can follow my build plans. However, the doors and drawers are a great way to really add your own personality to the build.  I was heavily considering swapping out my wood panels in my doors for glass, or even making map style drawer fronts.  The sky is the limit and this build can be completely catered to you and your unique style. 

Clear Out Existing Closet 

Before I can bring in the new, I had to take out the old. 

I removed all of the wire shelving and hardware.

Remove Door Frame- 

 In order to make space for the new cabinet I needed to completely remove the door, the door frame and even part of the wall.   Buckle up, this is where is gets fun!

I started by removing the door and the hinges that are secured to the door jamb.  

Once the door is removed it is time to move on to the door frame and jamb. Odds are there will be a substantial amount of caulk around the perimeter of your door.   First cut the caulk line with a utility knife, this will make the removal process much easier.  

 Using a prybar and a hammer remove the door casing and jamb.

Cut Hole

Before I started busting out walls, I needed to take careful measurements.  I obviously designed my custom pantry to fit in my allocated space, but I still needed to make sure I transferred my dimensions exactly to ensure my pantry would fit. 

After double and triple checking my dimensions, we started cutting drywall.  When cutting drywall, I prefer to use a oscillating tool. (Or in this case I let my husband handle the tools instead of the camera… this time.)

Remove Studs

 If you are ever uncertain if a stud is loadbearing or not, do not guess. Get a professional’s opinion before ripping apart your home!   In this case the 2×4’s pictured are just framing in the door and can safely be removed.

When it comes to removing studs, a good solid hammer and a few forceful hits will usually do the trick. 

 Build a Platform

  After much consideration I decided that I wanted to run my baseboard under my new cabinet.   I had considered running the cabinet all the way to the floor and create more of an armoire appearance, but I ultimately  decided that  I wanted it to look like it was completely built in to the wall.  In order to run the baseboard under the cabinet I needed to build a small platform using 2×4” boards.

Insert Pantry 

 It is now the moment of truth.  I would be lying if I said I wasn’t nervous as my husband and I brought this beast of a cabinet inside. I had already double, and triple checked my measurements, but I still held my breath as we pushed it into place.

 I cannot even begin to tell you how perfectly this thing fit.  LIKE A GLOVE. Gratefully everything went according to plan and the new custom pantry fit snuggly into its new home.

Before I started loading up the new pantry, I first ensured that it was secured in place.  Using 3½” screws I  drilled through the interior of the unit and into the stud that was directly behind it.  I repeated this step at several different anchor points. 

 Install Baseboard-

    The last thing this built-in needed was a baseboard.  As mentioned earlier, I put the pantry up on a platform  so that I could run a baseboard under the cabinet.  I simply cut a new piece of baseboard and installed in under the pantry. Eventually I will add shoe molding, caulk and paint it, but that will have to wait because I simply cannot wait to share the final reveal… 

 Can you even believe that is the same kitchen? Obviously, it added a ton of storage, but oh my goodness, it transformed the entire kitchen!  Don’t you just love it when form meets function, that’s when you know it is truly a good design. 

Ready to tackle your own project? You can do this!  There are so many other great bloggers and awesome resources like The Home Depot at your disposal. So, pick a space that could use a little more functionality and dive in!

 Thanks so much for following along. 
Take Luck,

Corey 

The post Built-in Pantry Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

It’s finally  time!  It’s time for a room reveal from the 70’s Ranch, and  it is a good one! We are starting out with the heart of the home. The kitchen.  You guys,  this thing was awesomely horrific!   I mean check out these yellow counter tops, complete with  yellow floral back splash.  I wish I could say that the color scheme was the worst of it.  The worst part was the layout. It was a really narrow galley style kitchen.

One side of the galley was the appliances,  the other was a long row of pantries.  You could never accuse this kitchen of not having ample storage, but it was weird, borderline excessive.  So DOWN came the random wall of pantries.  You can get all the demo details here. 

If you have been following along with this remodel, you know that I created a GORGEOUS style board that would serve as our inspiration for this remodel.  We envisioned a bright airy kitchen  but wanted a pop of black for the accents. We fell in love with these handles from The Home Depot , and we hit the ground running from there.

So let me show you a little bit of the process. See that huge hole in the ceiling, that is where the row of pantries was evicted from. While  I am all about DIY, we were on a serious time crunch to get this kitchen done, so they purchased their cabinets and had them installed. (Seriously, sometimes hiring someone to help out can be the difference from  wanting to assault someone with a spackle knife, and  wanting to remain a DIY blogger.) I am not going to lie, the layout of this kitchen makes me giddy, and the size of that island gives me serious house envy, and I LOVE my kitchen. (You can see mine here.)

Once the counters were in place we got to work tiling the back-splash with white subway tile. (Jena (My friend/homeowner)  got to learn first hand how to tile a back-splash, this was her first one and she tackled a lot of it without my supervision! It’s totally  doable for a new DIY’er.  At this point we had a very white kitchen! It had white cabinets,  white sink, white back-splash, and light counters.  Time to add some contrast!  Next up installing our  GORGEOUS hardware from the Home Depot.

Again,  this is another project any novice DIY’er can do , and it will can drastically change/improve any kitchen.  So, here is how I install hardware…

When it comes to installing hardware I am a hardcore fan of the Kreg Hardware Jig.  You set the dimensions on it once, and then you just  clamp in place.

Then using a drill and a 3/16″ drill bit  you drill  through the guide holes and through the cabinet door.   No more hoping you are driving it in level and praying your spacing is perfect! 

Now it’s time for the rewarding part.  Adding the hardware.  I like to use a drill when screwing the bolt through the cabinet and into the back of the hardware. A.) I can be lazy B.)  I am impatient.

Look how GORGEOUS it is! These drawer pulls are from the “Liberty Classic Square Collection“. P.S.  They also come in brushed nickel and really pretty modern brass !

Seriously  look at the kitchen without hardware. It’s pretty and all, BUT…

But look at it with the black pops everywhere!  It makes my DIY lovin’ heart want to burst!

 I am in love with this kitchen!!!

Even the little window nook has my heart!

Alright, now you guys have gotten a little taste of what is yet to come with this house,  so stay tuned, because we are just getting started!

Take Luck,

 Corey

I  acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in this  Beachwood Appearance Board Program (the “Program”). As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

The post 70’s Ranch Kitchen Makeover (and how to install door hardware) appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all!  You all KNOW I love a good furniture makeover/upcycle/re-purpose project right ?  Well, if you didn’t I am telling you now! (You can check out my other re-purposed furniture projects here.)  There is something about the challenge!  (As a builder it is normally easier for me to start from scratch.)  I love working with something  plain ol’ Jane and giving it a very satisfying transformation.  Admit it, you love that part of Fixer Upper, Princess Diaries, etc…  For today’s project I am teaming up with the great folks at Kreg,  to show you, you don’t need to be a skilled craftsman to add  the “WOW” factor to those old pieces of furniture gathering dust ! So let’s do this, let’s give this old cabinet a makeover!

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Cabinet Makeover 

Supplies I Used:

• Old Cabinet in need of a facelift
• Materials for Faceframe (1″x 3″ and 1″x 2″ boards are common)
• Chicken Wire
• Concealed Hinges
• 1/2″-3/4″ Plywood (for constructing the drawers)
• Heavy Duty Stapler (attaching chicken wire to interior of doors)

Tools I Used:

• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
• Steel Prybar  (I used this to remove original the original face frame)
• Miter Saw
• Drill
• Kreg Drawer Slide Jig
• Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig
• Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig
• Heavy Duty Stapler

 Step 1. The Carcass

Ok,  I know “carcass” may sound a little morbid, but  not worries, I am not loosing my mind to the nature channel. “Carcass”  is what cabinet makers refer to the base of  a cabinet. (Now you will sound official should you ever need to contribute to conversation at a woodworkers convention. You’re welcome.) Moving on.

Alright this part is not always necessary, but for the vision that I had for this, it would make it easier. Which leads perfectly into …

Step 2. Building  a Face Frame

Making a Face Frame is once of the easiest things you can do totally  change the entire look and function of  a piece.  I was able to use part of the original face frame and simply add a few rails. (“Rails” are the wooden pieces that run horizontally. As opposed to “Stiles” that run vertical.)  Look at you, learning vernacular  like a beast!

There are a lot of methods to making a “face frame”, my preferred method, (and by far the easiest in my opinion) is using a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig. They are very user friendly, and make it possible to join the rails and stiles perfectly!

Step 3. Attach Face Frame

Alright, now we are ready to re-attach our face frame.  There are several ways to do this,  you can use Kreg Pocket Hole Jig or  you can use wood glue and clamps. 

Step 4. Bring your “A” game! (Add drawers)

Remember those “rails” we added?  This is why I did it… I wanted to add drawers!  Never made a drawer ? It’s not hard , you are essentially  making a box!  The one thing that always  freaked me out about adding  drawers was installing the glides!  Am I right ? Seriously they left me cursing and then breathing into a paper bag. ( I can do hard things, I can do hard things!)  Kreg  must have heard my cry of obscenities, because they  created a jig that would save me time and bring my shop talk back to G-rated…  Well, that’s a lie, but  it was definitely closer to a PG-13 level.

They created these beauties!  GAME CHANGERS.

These Kreg Drawer Slide Jigs level, measure, gives you an extra set of hands, and makes dinner. Ok,  maybe not make dinner, but you get what I am saying,  these things help me get it right the first time!  These jigs clamp right in place and have tabs that hold it perfectly in place. Seriously, game changer.  But wait there is more!  They not only  help install the glides to the cabinet, they perfectly allow you to install the slides to the drawers themselves. No more adjusting and drilling a hundred tiny holes and praying you get it right.  The drawers are positioned for perfect alignment.  

Step 5 . Add Doors

Another great way to bring your makeover to the next level is to add doors!  I wanted to have something that would give it character,  not just a paneled door.  So,  formed two empty frame doors.
 It is a very simple build that only requires adding  Kreg Pocket Holes to the rails. Clamp them down and screw them in place…Phrasing.   Now for the hinges…  Installing hinges use to send me running for my  paper bag. Not anymore!  I used the new Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig.   You just clamp it in place and drill, then repeat.   Perfection. 

When it comes to adding the doors I like to put them on a board that rests on the ground and then attach the hinges to the interior of the cabinet.   This little trick will ensure that the doors sit perfectly with no wonky business going on.

Step 6. Add Drawer Fronts

Next I made my drawer fronts from a piece of 1’x 10″  pine.  I measure so that the drawer would be 1″ wider AND taller that the opening for the drawer. (This will create a 1/2″ overlap all the way around.)  I picked my hardware and was ready to install. Again Kreg ingenuity to the rescue.   They have create a Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig that allows yo to adjust the exact placement of your drilled holes, and has preset notches for standard width handles, pulls, and knobs!  My favorite part, is the steel collar that allows your drill to essentially  become a pseudo drill-press.  The collar ensures that the hole is drilled STRAIGHT! ( I am ashamed to admit I have had my kitchen cabinets hole placement have a little bit of crazy-eyed action going on.  No more! 

Now that the drawer front  has the pull/handle  installed,  I was ready to attach the drawer front to the drawer.  I used clamps to hold the drawer front in place and used

I like to use the same tip to add my drawer fronts as I did my cabinet doors. (See step 5. )

Step 7. Finishing Touches

I wanted to give it a little height and some farmhouse character, so I added  some screw on legs right before I painted it.  (  I removed the drawer hardware so that I could use a paint sprayer to apply the paint.)

  While that was drying I took the back ( that we already removed), and cut it up!  Yup, I cut it up into about 5.5″ strips, sanded the edges, and then painted them white as well.  This will create a fun shiplap look for the backing. Once the strips were dry  I reattached them to the back with wood glue , and reinforced with 1″ finish nails. 

I also added some trim  and a wood  slab to the top to add balance to the top. Also, I really wanted this to be a two-tone piece (paint and stain combined in the same piece).  The new trim and top slab of wood, would allow me to create the “two-tone” look.  

The only  thing  I needed to do was re-attach the doors and add “chicken wire”  to the inside of the doors and this baby was done!

  Ta-Da! Mind BLOWN! #micdrop

 Well there you have it folks, yet another win for re-purposed projects everywhere!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post A Cabinet Makeover that will turn heads! appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Pendant into Chandelier 

Supplies Used:

• 3 Pendant Lights (w/basic mounting kits)  * I used some from Home Depot, but they have since been discontinued, HERE is something similar.*
• 1″x 8″ Board
• 1″ x 2″ Board
• 2″x 4″ Boards

Tools Suggested

• Miter Saw
• Square
• Tape Measure
• 1″ Drill Bit
• Drill
• Nail Gun
• Wood Glue
• Countersink bit

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1. Mark Hole Placement

Step 2. Drill Holes

I used a 1″ paddle bit to drill out the holes for my lights.

Step 3.  Cut Side Frames

Next I frame out my base using 1″x 2″ primed boards. Okay,  this is simple. So deep breaths. This is just (4) mitered corners.  You will need to cut your boards on a 45 degree angle.

Step 4. Assemble

Once your side frames are cut, dry fit to make sure everything fits snuggly,  there is nothing wonky going on. Once you know it fits like a glove, attach the 1 x 2’s  to the base. I use wood glue and then reinforced using  1-1/2″ finish nails.

Step 5. Sand/Prep for Paint

Once the glue has set, I gave the whole fixture/box a once over with a sander.  (Using a sander you can easily minimize any discrepancies.

Step 6. Paint

Once sanded, slap some paint on that sucker! It is so much easier to paint when it is not above your head Sistine Chapel Style.  Your neck and arms will thank you later.

Step 7. Attach Light Fixture Hardware

Now you install the hardware. The  only difference is, you are installing it to the board instead of the ceiling. (hint:The outside of the board.)

Step 8. String the Pendants through base.

Next you will string the pendants through.  Make sure you measure how long you want each pendant to hang, because now is when you will want to measure and adjust the lengths.

Before you cut off any  wire, make sure you have some excess. (This will be hidden in the box and will make your life easier when wiring/installing.)

Step 9.Attach Mounting blocks

In order to attach the fixture to the ceiling, I attached mounting blocks to the ceiling. I took extra care to map out where the blocks would be in relationship to the placement on my fixture. I also made sure that my blocks hit the rafters, and would be secure!

Step 10. Pre-Drill Base

Before  I wired the fixture in place, I did a quick fit check to make sure that my fixture/box fit over my  ceiling mounted blocks snuggly. The idea being, that once it is  wired  I can screw the fixture/box from the outside, attaching it to the mounted block on the inside.

In order to make those screws less obtrusive I pre-drilled with a countersink bit.

Step 11. Wire

DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN!  I am simply showing you what I did, and I strongly encourage you to hire/consult with a licensed electrician who is well versed in the NEC (National Electrical Code).

Because I am only  wiring three lights together, I simply  wired them all together. Anything more than three I would usually  do a “Daisy Chain” approach.

Before you even think about wiring this in place make sure you switch off the breaker for the lights!!!

Once you have sufficiently  twisted together your “live” (black), “neutral” (white), and your “ground” (green) you are ready to install.

Step 12. Install  NEW Light Fixture

This is where it gets a little tricky.  You will need another set of hands when installing. One person will need to hold the fixture/box while the other wires the  fixture in place. You will again match the black wires, the white wires and then attach the ground wires.  When wiring them together use a nut that was intended to accommodate multiple wires.

Once wires are attached  place any remaining excess wire/cord in the box/fixture.

Now it’s ready to be attached to the ceiling! Place the fixture in over the ceiling mounted blocks. Then using a 1-1/2″ to 2″ wood screw(s) attach the fixture/box to  the mounted blocks.

The post How to use Pendants to make a Chandelier. appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all, I kind of pride myself on working fast, and knocking out projects like nobody’s business. But the last few months… whooa! I feel like I have not sat down since we moved.  Granted the house is looking gorgeous, but some projects had to take a back burner,  this organizer being one of them.  Originally  I wanted to have this  done before the kids went back to school!  (Whoops,  missed that deadline.) Regardless, I wanted to build an organizer  that  (theoretically)  I could  lay out  their clothing the night before school, and have a bin for shoes and socks. With the thought, that if they had their whole outfit (socks and all) out  they could get themselves dressed. (Theoretically)

So…. I took inspiration from a Pottery Barn Organizer and designed this little beauty!

I’m excited  to be  teaming  up with the great folks over at HomeRight on this  project! It is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)  Make sure you enter to win your very own paint tent at the end of the post!

Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Organizer

Supplies Used:

• (1) 1″x 10″ x 8′ Common Pine Board  (Actual finished dimensions: 3/4″ x 9 1/4″ x 8′)
• (1 ) 1″x 8″ x 8′ Common Pine Board ( Actual finished dimensions : 3/4″ x 7 1/3″ x 8′)
• (1) 1″x 3″ x 8′ Common Board
• 1 1/4″ Kreg Jig  Screws
• Stain and/or Paint
• Wood Glue
• 1 1/2″ Finish Nails
  Tools Suggested:
  • Drill
  • Drill Bit
  • Kreg  JIg
  • Miter Saw
  • Nail Gun
  • Homeright Small Spray Shelter
  • Homeright Spray Shelter
  • HomeRight Finish Max Fine Finish Sprayer

  Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Don’t forget to enter the GIVEAWAY at the bottom of the post! 

• ---

  Step 1.

   Cut List:

  1’x 10″ Board

  • (2) @ 33″ ( Top and Base Boards)

  1″x 8″ Board

  • (2) @ 9 1/4″  (End Supports)
  • (2) @ 8 1/2″  (Center Dividers)
  • (1) @ 33″  (Bottom Apron )
  • (2) @ 8 1/2″ ( These will be modified to make the support corbels on the base.)

1″x 3″ Board

• (2) @ 30″ ( These will be modified to create a french cleat for installation.)

Step 2.  Attach End Supports to the Top Board

Step 3. Cut French Cleat Boards

Step 4. Add Interior French Cleat

When attaching the back cleat make sure you position the cleat so that the 45 degree angle faces toward the front of the unit.

Step 5.  Dividers

Step 6.  Attach the Base Board

Measure the appropriate distance ( use Step 5 as a reference).  Using 1-1/2″ wood screws from the underside, going through the 1″x 8″ board into the dividers and end supports.

Step 7. Add the Bottom Apron

Drill pocket holes along the top ledge of the board. Then using 1-1/2″ kreg screws attach the bottom apron board to the bottom of the cubby unit.

Step 8. Cut Corbels

Cut the 8 1/2″ x 7-1/4″ board into corbels. Once the boards/corbels  are cut drill pocket holes.

Step 9.  Attach Corbels/Supports

Step 10 . Finish

I was debating over painting  or staining, but ultimately I decided to stain it so that it would match my son’s room. If I had chosen to paint I would have hands down used a HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer and a Homeright Spray Shelter.    Because this was small build I quickly stained it, but  when I do my large builds I normally  opt to SPRAY my stain!  Yup you can do that!

 You can read all about it here. (And get all the details on that devilishly looking good build as well.) 

Step 11. Add Hardware

This is my favorite part, adding hardware!  I feel like the right hardware can definitely take a build to the next level!  I wanted there to be a mix of materials and metal is always a favorite.  I found these awesome little wire baskets at Target in the dollar section! Woot woot!  I love the dollar section!  I got them all for $3 a piece,  they were the perfect size, but the color… hmmm.  It just wasn’t going to jive with the motif.

No worries we can handle that!  I pulled out my handy  pop-up Homeright Small Spray Shelter,  and took care of that color in a jiffy!

I wanted to error on the side of caution, so I did a quick coat of spray primer.   Followed by a coat of  “Soft  Iron” by Rustoleum. 

Next up, the hooks! Naturally they needed to match my baskets, so into the spray shelter they went!  You will notice I even have the spray shelter set up inside,  yup, I had no worries. This spray shelter works like a charm.

Step 12.  Install Wall Cleat

All that is left to do is install! To attach the wall you will need to install the second cleat.  When installing I suggest a 3″ screw and make sure you are solidly into (2) studs.  I decided to paint my cleat the color of the wall so that it will blend in with the wall!

To install all you need to do is put the wall unit against the wall and drop the unit into place so that the cleats are puzzle pieced together!

That’s all there is to it folks! Side note: we used this for the first time yesterday morning and it worked like a charm!  We had laid out my boys’ clothing the night before and put their shoes and socks in their cubbies, in the morning their alarm went off and they got themselves dressed and came downstairs with out me needing to holler up the stair even once!  Ahh…. success!

ENTER TO WIN 
a Rafflecopter giveaway

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Apron Sink Install!

So before we get started   I would like to say a big thank you to the great folks over at MOEN  for teaming up with me on this project! It is through  great companies like Moen and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)

In order to create a large island,  I would need to take down (the stupid waste of space wall… seriously it  wasn’t even load bearing!?), and (most importantly) install an apron sink.. So let the demo begin!  I am not going to lie, there WAS something oddly  satisfying about taking a sledge hammer to a counter top.

Once the sink was removed I was ready to prep for the apron sink installation.  I began by removing the “rails” (the horizontal 1″x 2″ boards). In a lot of cases face frames are constructed using pocket holes,  so  it was just a matter unscrewing the pocket hole screws and removing the rails. Easy Peasy.    I kept these handy  because I knew I would need them later. 

Next  I needed to remove the upper support bar. Before I removed the top rail I used a circular saw to cut down the center stile (vertical center board). Once the stile was cut down to the appropriate height,  (this measurement will vary by sink, manufacturer, etc.)

I then used my two smaller rails that I removed earlier.  These were the rails that already had been pocket hole drilled.  I then measured to make sure I was installing the rails level.  Then clamped the rails in place and using 1 1/4″ pocket screws secured the rails in place.

Next I needed to build an internal support system that would hold the sink up.  I chose the Moen 1800 Series Apron Front Sink. This is a heavy under mount sink (meaning it mounts under the counter top, as opposed to resting on top of the counters.)

These can be made any number of ways but the most important thing is the there is a 1/8″ gap between the top of your support and the top of your cabinet.

Before I dropped my apron sink in place I did apply some silicone caulk, so that once the sink was  in place, it would not wiggle.

Next came the counter tops!

As much as it kills me to pay someone else to work on my house, fabricating and installing counter tops simply is not in my repertoire.  Which is why 95% of the budget went to the professionals. (Breathe into a paper bag.)

As much as it pained me to hand over the cash it was totally worth it!  The installers  were great  and they  drilled the holes where the faucet, soap dispenser and garbage disposal button would go.  YES,  you heard right.  Garbage disposal button!  There is no requirement that says the switch to the disposal has to be an ugly light switch.  This little button is air actuated, so there is no risk of electrocuting yourself! Bonus:  They come in lots of finishes to fit any kitchen style!  You can see the whole selection here:  Moen Air Switch Button

Like I said before, I wanted the island to be the focal point, with a huge emphasis on the sink.  The sink was going to be front and center and I wanted it to make a statement.  When brainstorming the design concept for the kitchen I kept coming back to the idea of a high arch faucet.  When I saw the Moen Align Spot Resist Stainless Pull-Down Faucet I was in love. Wham, Bam, thank you mam, in love.  I coupled it the Moen Modern Soap Dispenser. This combination is perfection.  I don’t know if you could ever qualify a sink as “sexy”, but I say you can, and this is it!

 Seriously, look at that sink!? Is it not one of the prettiest sinks you have ever seen?  I love that it is a slight  twist on a time proven classic.  I used this sink and faucet as inspiration for  the rest of the kitchen.
 I am not going to lie, I think that the  outcome is  phenomenal!

If you are interested in the rest of the kitchen makeover you can click on any of the links below to read more about this space!

Faux Brick Wall

Flooring

Kitchen Makeover 

   Again,  big thanks to Moen and their partnership, and thank YOU  for stopping by and reading!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Apron Sink! appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

While I was sad to leave behind our home, I immediately started scheming about what I would change, and what I wanted to repeat in the new home.

 When I had  first started looking into laminate flooring ,  I was a little skeptical on how it would wear, and if it would hold up to two rambunctious boys, and my furniture rearranging antics.  I had spent hours pouring over online reviews, and researching durability and of course, comparing prices.  All of the reviews I had read for “Select Surfaces Flooring” were raves, and their price point was well below their competitors. Quality and less $$? Yes, please!

Well, after 6 months with ZERO  scratches, I am a believer!  So when  it came time to select flooring for the new house,  it was a no-brainer. I HANDS DOWN wanted to go with a  Select Surfaces laminate again!  So I reached out to the great folks at Select Surfaces and have teamed up with them to complete this downstairs overhaul!

This time around, I was thinking about changing it up a bit.  They  have some AWESOME new color choices available! I was so torn on what color I wanted to use!  I had LOVED the “Barnwood” color I had used in the last house, but at the same time, if you have a chance to change things up, would you !?  I stared at the color samples for weeks and I had finally narrowed it down to “Cocoa Walnut“ and “Toffee“.

   I knew I would like the effect both would create in the house.  I was so torn!  Seriously, I went back and fourth on the decision on an daily  hourly basis.  I finally made my husband weigh in; he loved the darker.  Phew. The decision was made and I was thrilled with our decision.

The “Cocoa Walnut” had nice wide planks, and I LOVED that the planks were well defined, and had so much variation and character in each piece.  They have the “Hand Scraped” effect, which means it has awesome natural looking texture.

I had my color selected, and was ready to go! Now we just needed to get into the house…

 The DAY we closed:

We were up against a TIGHT deadline. We had 6 days to be out of our old house and into the new house. We knew life would be 100 x’s easier if we got the flooring in before we moved all of our crap in.  Crazy? Yes, but we were totally committed!  We got down and dirty within hours of being handed the keys.

DAY 1 & 2: DEMO DAYS

I am not going to lie, the first time around, the demo was complete HELL ON EARTH. We were chipping away quarter size pieces of tile for nearly 2 weeks!  We knew we would need help so we hired a few guys to come and help us. I swear,  “luck favors the prepared”,  Andrew and I got started before the help even arrived. We were popping up ENTIRE tiles!  This was a night and day difference this time around, it was, dare I say “easy” . We probably didn’t need the extra help, but we were sure glad we had it to help speed the process along.

DAY 3 & 4: Laying the Laminate

Yet another reason we chose laminate… ease of use!  Andrew and I laid all 1600 sq. ft. of flooring in TWO days.  Yes, TWO!  We put down a moisture barrier, and the planks come with an insulated backing. (Once less step!)  They are click and lock planks, once you get the hang of it you can really get cooking.  They do have more detailed instructions available here.

So without further ado… here is how our Select Surfaces Flooring Turned out!

Every time we completed  the flooring in a room, it amazed me how much flooring did for the space! The flooring alone, made the house look like a million bucks!

Once it was all in, I knew I had made the right choice.  The “Cocoa Walnut” was exactly  what this space needed!  I have found that it lends itself to both warm and cool tones.  So I can put nearly any paint color with it, and it looks fantastic!

So let’s wrap this up. First, the price point is awesome. Second, it comes in plenty of different colors. Third, it is user friendly, and easy to install. Fourth, this stuff HOLDS UP!  Lastly , this stuff looks absolutely amazing!

A big thank you to “Select Surfaces” and the great opportunity to work with them  again.

The post Why I chose Wood Laminate , AGAIN! appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

You Guys,  I am just so dang excited that I can’t delay this post any longer! This may be a short and sweet preview, but HOT DANG, it is done!   I promise I will be coming back and filling you in on more of the details, and be adding some tutorials, but today… today I celebrate that  it is DONE and celebrate it by showing it off!

   Faux Brick Wall Tutorial 

 There you have it folks,  I PROMISE I will be back with some more details about the makeover. But for now?  I am going to sit back and admire my work!

 Take Luck,

 Corey

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