*This post is sponsored by DAP and does contain affiliate links.

I have wanted to tackle the stairs for 7 years now! When we first moved in, I stained the handrail and painted the balusters… that held me over, until now. With the recent family room makeover I decided it is time to tackle the stairs! I started with the balusters and handrail (which you can see the process in my Instagram Stories) but now it’s time for the Stair Tread Makeover! I am teaming up with the great folks over at DAP to make it happen.

Remove Carpet for Stair Tread Makeover

Before we can begin the process of install we first need to get our stairs back to square one. That includes, but is not limited to tearing out the carpet. I found the easiest way to remove the carpet was to use any form of pliers. Basically any tool that will allow you to get a nice firm grip while sparing your hands from the inevitable staples.

After the carpeting AND padding is removed  it’s time to begin the arduous  task of removing all the staples and the tack strip.  This just takes a little patience, time, and I would recommend a flat head screw driver, a slim pry bar and a hammer.

While all of the stair treads are exposed in a raw state, NOW would be an excellent time to repair any squeaky stairs. I used 3.5″ power pro screws to really tighten any loose treads.

Build-Out Toe Kick

For this staircase makeover I am using retro fit stair treads. The difference between retrofit and standard is that retrofit were intended to be installed over existing treads. The main tread is only a 1/2″ thick as opposed to a standard tread that is 3/4″, also a retrofit tread has a lip to cover existing tread.

I opted for retrofit BECAUSE… firstly I found these treads for 50% off and I couldn’t pass them up. ( I don’t know if this course actually saves any time compared replacing the treads, but I really liked the look of the thick tread.)

Using retrofit does come wiht a few complications. The retrofit was inteded to cover a traditional 3/4″ material hardwood tread, NOT construction grade 2x materials. So the lip is not long enough to cover the tread and it does not “cup” the tread… meaning the underside of the nose is exposed.

Again, it probably would have been easier to rip everything out and go with traditional treads, but I have an idea.

The Goal: To make the front of the stair tread flush with the riser, so that when a new riser is installed it will cover the existing tread, and allow the new retrofit tread to fit in place perfectly.

I am not the first person to ever encounter this problem. In fact as I researched a lot of DIYer’s cut the front of the stair nose off. While that is an option, which would require either a.) cutting the treads in place using an assortment of saws, and creating a decent mess or b.) removing the tread then using a table saw to cut and then reinstall… none of these options sounded great…

May I present Option C.) : Reminder, the goal is to make the front of the existing tread flush with the riser. Well, instead of cutting off the nose, I am filling in the toe kick area. For $37 in sheet goods, I was able to create spacers using scraps of plywood. I used DAP HD MAX Construction Adhesive to secure the scraps and then tacked in place with a pin nailer.

After the spacers were installed I cut a piece of 1/2″ plywood to bridge the rest of the gap. ( I could have used 2×6″ boards, BUT after doing some math it would have been $$$.)

Measure & Cut Risers

Time to prep the risers. There are quite a few options when it comes to riser materials. The purpose of a riser is purely decorative. I have seen risers made of 1/4″ mdf paneling, however, I wanted something a little more substantial. I used 1/2″ sanded and primed plywood. It is easy to paint, and will not run the risk of it ” waving” or “bowing” with time.

My house has some very wonky walls, and nothing is square. In all reality MOST homes have some weird walls, that is why I am using a stair tread measuring device. It is a very easy device to use, and comes with instructions. It essentially allows you to quickly make a template of each riser, and then you transfer the template to your riser material .

PRO TIP: When marking risers, number your risers and it counterpart.

After all the risers were cut, REST them in place. This will allow for a thorough test fit, AND the risers need to be in place before measuring for the treads.

Measure and Cut Treads for Makeover

Measuring for treads is a similar process to measuring for risers. Use the tread measuring tool to measure the treads, transfer measurement and then cut using a miter saw.

Depth of Tread

All homes stair depth is going to vary slightly. The idea behind the retrofit stair tread is that it can be ripped to the necessary depth to fit your current tread. As you can see in the image below there is a substantial gap between the tread lip and the riser.

There are 3 options on how to handle this.

A.) Leave the gap. It won’t be weird, but there will be a visible gap. (I cannot speak to it’s structural integrity though.)

B.) Measure the distance between the lip of the tread and the riser, then rip that much off the back of the stair tread. (“Rip”- Use a table saw or circular saw to cut off a long strip).

C.) Bulk up the nose of the tread using an additional piece of material.

Both options “A” and “B” are considerably easier than option “C”, but I naturally opted for the more complicate route.

Option “C” would allow for max tread depth AND would create a deeper “toe kick” area. Both of which were very important to my husband. (And in my opinion look better as well.)

Something to consider: When considering the best option for you, check your local building codes to make sure you are in compliance. International building code says the stair treads cannot be less than 10.5 inches deep. Option “A” may not be a viable option if you loose too much depth.

I planned to stain these treads, because of this I needed to match wood species. (If you are painting that will not be necessary.) These treads are red oak, I started to look into boards by the foot and it was adding up $$ pretty quickly. Then I had the idea to rip up a traditional red oak tread. It worked perfectly and only cost about $35 in materials.

I ripped the stair tread using a table saw and then applied DAP Weldwood Professional Wood Glue and then clamped overnight. Worked like a charm.

Paint Risers

There are plenty of options when it comes to riser aesthetics. I’ve seen them stained, wall-papered, ship-lapped and stenciled, but I opted for a classic painted white riser. I used Sherwin Williams “Snowbound” in a a Semi-Gloss finish. The glossier the sheen, the easier it is to clean.

As stated before I am using a 1/2″ primed plywood. It is very smooth and technically does not require sanding, but I quickly gave them a “once over” with 220 grit paper. After which I used a paint sprayer to paint all my treads. I ended up doing two coats of paint, making sure to use a finish sponge sander in-between coats.

Stain Treads

When staining it is always recommended to use a pre-stain. There is some debate on whether it is actually necessary when you are using hardwoods. These stair treads are red oak and take stain much more evenly that a soft wood ( pine for example), but I prefer to always use a pre-stain.

After the pre-stain I proceeded to stain stair treads using ZAR Oiled Leather Stain. Red Oak naturally has red undertones in it. ZAR’s “Oiled leather” has a green undertone that neutralizes the red and creates a rich walnut color!

I applied one coat of stain and allowed it to dry over night before applying a second coat. Adding multiple layers of stain will deepen the stain color.

I allowed my stair treads to dry for 72hours in ideal drying conditions before applying any form of sealant.

When it comes to sealing stained projects there are quite a few options Polyurethane and Poly-acrylic being the two most popular. Polyurethane (oil-based) is known for it’s durability, but as it dries and ages develops a yellow/amber color. I did not want my stairs to have a slight yellow hue. So I did my research on the most durable poly-acrylic (water-based), and found a poly that I LOVE. I used General Finishes High-Performance Top Coat in “Flat”. I applied three coats, and used a 220 grit sanding sponge and tack cloth in-between each coat.

Install Risers

Now time for the fun part, install! Because of the time and effort that was taken into fitting, measuring and marking these this part will be rewarding and quick!

Simply apply a liberal amount of  construction adhesive to the back of the stair riser and then push firmly into place. I used DAP HDMAX  it is a high performance adhesive that bonds to virtually ALL materials, including wet surfaces, it even works well in extreme temperatures! Not that my steps will be in extreme temperatures, but when I am putting this much effort into a project I want to make sure I  am using the BEST. Once in place use DAP Alex Fast Dry Caulk to hide any corner seams. I love Alex Fast Dry, it is very user friendly, and it paint ready in as little as 20 minutes! Now, you could easily install all the risers at once or could rotate installing riser/tread. The only thing necessary is to install the front riser and back riser before installing the tread..

Install Treads

To install the treads I used DAP HDMAX. This construction adhesive is AH-MAZING with exceptional adhesion. I would encourage you to use a liberal amount HDMAX so that you have quite a few points of contact with the bare tread and the new tread. In doing so you will eliminate squeaky stairs.

If desired you can put weights on each tread as the adhesive sets. However, I found that using a pin nailer to tack it in place to prevent shifting was all it needed. As I progressively worked my way up the stairs I would kneel on the previously installed step and act as a weight as it settled into place. I repeated the installation of riser/tread/riser etc… and I slowly worked my way up the entire staircase.

Top Step

Top step is a fun little mind game. I have seen some instance where people leave the top step/nose carpeted. I was very tempted to use this approach, but you know me… I can’t leave well enough alone. Instead I tore up the carpet to expose the top lip. I prepped a stair tread in the same fashion the others were prepped, but on the top one I ripped down to approximately 4″. (This depth can vary based on your stairs.)

Again, I very liberally applied DAP HDMAX Construction Adhesive to the back of the tread, then installed in place and applied weights. After waiting the 4 hour recommended dry time I began carpet repair. This was a first for me but was not as difficult as I expected.

I reinstalled the tack strip, and cut the carpet to extend 1″ PAST my desired carpet stopping point. I then bent the carpet under itself 1″ and push it down on the tack strip. Using a knee kicker I pulled the carpet snug and did any necessary adjustment before tacking the carpet into place.

This project was a HUGE undertaking, one that I put off for years! Now that it is done, I regret not doing it sooner. Was it overwhelming, you bet! But once I got started I found that each individual step was totally doable. It is like eating an elephant… just one bite at a time!

The post Stair Tread Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I am originally, from Ohio and grew up with a fireplace. I later spent a good portion of my adulthood in Idaho and Utah. Call me crazy, but I LOVE the cold weather and curling up by the fireplace. However, my husband had the audacity to get a wonderful job in Florida. We have since been here 12 years and I still miss my fireplace. Welp, I can’t change the weather, but I CAN do something about the fireplace! With the help of my friends at DAP I am going to create a traditional fireplace with a modern twist.

Building a Mantle

Let’s start at the very beginning. Before I could start designing my mantle I needed to build out a a small wall that would accommodate my fireplace insert. The size of the bump out wall is based solely on the desired look and the existing space. As a point of reference the wall my fireplace is on is 21′ long and 10′ high. I built the bump out wall approximately 80″ wide. (I also added blocking behind the drywall that would allow me to easily mount my t.v. above the fireplace.)

After the adding drywall, mudding and painting I was left with a wall with a hole specifically made for my fireplace insert. This is were the fun part begins, building!

Please keep in mind, that I am giving dimensions as a point of reference, not as actual build plans. All spaces and fireplace inserts will be different please adjust accordingly.

Building Mantle Surround

I built a basic template out of 3/4″ plywood that would serve as the base for my fireplace surround. I assembled the base using pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Before I continued building, I did a quick dry fit to ensure the fireplace insert, the hole in the wall and the new template all lined up. They did, phew!

Building on the Base

Seeing as this is a free-standing piece, and will need to be transported I used EXTRA care when assembling! When assembling builds I always reach for DAP Weldwood Professional Wood Glue. It has a fast set time and an incredibly strong bond I know I can trust.

I did not want my mantle to be too obtrusive so I opted for a low profile. As you can see in the images below, I built the box style sides directly onto the newly built base.

Here is another shot of the sides glued up. Note: I added a small piece of wood blocking that would support the top board during installation.

Build Up Header

After the two sides were built I created a very basic frame work that would serve as a header and bridge the remaining gap. This was constructed of 3/4″ plywood and was then topped with a 3/4″ slab.

Once the sides and top are constructed we have our basic shell for the rest of the mantle. Please note that the interior 3/4″ side ply will be exposed and I recommend covering them with edge banding. ( Yes, you could have mitered all the edges to create a seamless joint, but I will be adding a crown molding that will hide the bottom of the butt joint.)

Next up is the mantle top. The goal was to have a low profile top while still being able to use it for seasonal decor. I determined that 9.5″ was the narrowest I could go while still accommodating my desired trim work. (Again, the side ply will be exposed on this piece. You can either band the edges OR you can purchase a 1×10 board.)

Prep Surface

I have said it before and I will say it again, THIS is the part that will make or break any build. Prepping your build for it’s finish. Whether that be paint or stain, always take the time to prep your project properly.

In this case I will be painting my mantle and I need to fill all nail holes and gaps. Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler by DAP has always been my preferred filler for paint projects. It has a good consistency that is easy to work with, a quick dry time and dries HARD! Its perfect for filling the gaps in my mitered corners, because it will sand to create a nice crisp edge.

After all the holes and gaps are filled use a finish sander with a fine grit paper to smooth out the entire project. ( For this particular project, I am sanding before the entire project is complete BECAUSE once I install the trim moulding it will be harder to access with an electric sander. If you prefer you can wait until the build is completed for this step.)

Install Trim Work

Next up, trim work! So far the mantle is looking very box-y. Which may be your cup of tea, but I wanted to add a little visual interest and a transition between the different heights. Crown moulding was the perfect solution!

A word of caution, crown moulding can be very frustrating. Especially when you are using a large one like mine. I personally would never attempt this moulding without the aid of my Crown Molding Jig . My advice is this, READ the instruction manual that comes with it! Keep in mind you are working on a project that is NOT on the ceiling so you will have to reverse the instructions.

If this seems to daunting you could easily use other forms of trim and boards to add interest and a transition of layers.

Caulk Seams and Gaps

At this point I had only a few pin nails to fill around the moulding. ( Again, I used DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler, and lightly sanded those areas.) Now it is time for the magic eraser of the DIY world. As I mentioned before crown moulding can be tricky, but DAP Extreme Stretch Caulk is VERY forgiving. It can completely hide wonky lines and unsightly gaps with ease! DAP Extreme Stretch is great for indoor and outdoor projects and is formulated to stretch over 600%. While this is not an functioning fireplace, it does act as a small space heater. Changes in temperature often lead to natural materials (like wood) contracting and expanding. Using DAP Extreme Stretch will prevent any seams popping and IS paint-able. Basically the best thing ever!

Prime and Paint

Last step, paint. If you know me, you know I opt to use a paint sprayer whenever humanly possibly. This project was no exception. I am using the Graco TC Pro Sprayer, with Sherwin Williams Emerald paint in the color “Snowbound” with a semi-gloss finish.

Install Mantle

Once the mantle is completely dry it is safe to install. This thing was HEAVY so I enlisted my husband’s help to carry it in, and set in place. I used 3″ screws around the perimeter of the opening to secure the mantel/surround to the wall. ( The lip of the fireplace insert will hide these screw heads.)

If you feel that it needs added security I would recommend drilling from the interior of the wall and into the back of the mantle as to avoid unsightly screws.

Last step: Make it Flawless! Before we hang up our tool belt, it is time to make this project perfect. With just a small bead of caulk you can blur the the lines of where the fireplace ends and the wall begins. I wanted this to be a very crisp line, and I had no intention of bringing out the paint, SO I used the tape trick.

What’s the tape trick? It is simply this, run a piece of painters tape on either side of your seam. (As seen below). Then run a minimal size bead of caulk down the line. Using a wet finger, or a baby wipe smooth the line. Immediately remove the tape, and you will have a PERFECT caulk line with Extreme Stretch Caulk. In this case the caulk color is nearly a perfect match, otherwise you could paint to desired color.

That’s it folks, all you need to do is pop in your insert and sit back and enjoy. ( My insert requires ZERO fasteners. Relies solely on gravity.) Pop it in, and enjoy your gorgeous new upgrade! As I stated before I was going for a traditional look with a modern twist and I think I nailed it, if I do say so myself.

I can’t help myself, look how beautiful it is all dressed up for the Holidays!

Thanks so much for following along and “take luck”!

Corey

The post Building a Mantle appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Things to Consider:  These dimensions were based on an Electric Bass Guitar with the following approximate dimensions 47” tall by 14” wide.  

*NOT ACOUSTIC* If desired these plans could easily be widened to accommodate an acoustic guitar. I used the same build plans to display a standard electric guitar, there are just wider margins on the bottom of the display case

Prep Materials

Using a miter saw or circular saw prepare all your boards. Using a sander, sand your boards to achieve a smooth finish. (Please see “Build Plans” for more detailed dimensions.) 

Assemble Box Frame

 When assembling the Guitar Display Case make sure you use a GOOD wood glue. I always grab DAP Weldwood Professional Wood Glue. 

Attach Back Supports

When attaching the back supports ALWAYS use a Weldwood Wood Glue and then reinforce with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Something to keep in mind: The back support will eventually be the support for the guitar hanger. You can adjust the placement of this cleat/support if you would like to alter the height that the guitar hangs at.

*IF ADDING LIGHTING*

There are several options when adding illumination.

1st- (Easy) Use these Battery Operated Light Guitar Hangers

2nd-(Medium) These bar lights would be a simple addition would not require as much tweaking as mine.

If you are a glutton for punishment and you want to add the same lights I did, now is the time!

I purposefully made the paneling so that there would be a 1/4″ gap around the perimeter between the paneling and the the frame. ( See image below.) This gap will act as a channel in which you can run any wires necessary for lighting.

BEFORE securing the paneling board to the back supports (using Weldwood Wood Glue) ensure that you have all the proper wiring in place!

I used a center mount mini spot light, which required a small channel to be cut in my top trip so accommodate the wires. In order to do this I used my table saw to cut a small groove in the top center of my 1×2″ trim board. This will allow the wire to run through and access the channel around the paneling.

I found that using a small dab of  caulk was perfect to hold the wire in place. 

The lighting that I used included a toggle switch. In order to make it accessible I cut two notches on the bottom of my side frame. (There will be a 3/4″ gap between the wall and the case to accommodate any excess wires and adapters.)

Lastly, you will need a point for the power source. I drilled a hole at the bottom center of my case, approximately 1″ from the bottom of the 1×4″ board. This would allow the power cord to access the channel around the perimeter of the paneling.

Add Trim to Guitar Display Case

Again, DO NOT add trim unless you have COMPLETELY run your lighting wires OR you are not including lighting.

Using Weldwood Wood glue apply the 1×2″ trim pieces.

I opted to complicate matters further and added and additional layer of trim work. I used PVC base cap. This in and of itself is not a complicated step… HOWEVER, my dang lighting was in the way. So it required cutting a small notch to accommodate my light.

Fill Holes

the secret to a really professional build/ perfect paint finish? Make sure you take the time to fill all the holes, gaps, and seams! I always use Dap Plastic Wood. It doesn’t shrink as it dries, it dries quick and sands smooth every time!

After holes are filled, snd smooth, and then tip down to remove any dust and/or debris.

Caulk Seams

Here is where the magic happens. If you are beginner and still learning the ropes, caulk is going to be your best friend! It is the magic eraser of the DIY world. It will make all those unsightly gaps and crevices disappear. I always opt for DAP caulk, their Alex Ultra has flex AND is paint ready in 15 minutes!

Paint Guitar Display Case

Paint in your desired finish, I opted for “Iron Ore” by Sherwin Williams in their “Emerald” line with a Satin finish. I used my Graco TC Pro Sprayer to apply the paint.

Install Guitar Hanger and Cleat

Last step before wall install is to add the guitar hanger. Use ¾” screws to attach the guitar hanger to the interior of the guitar display case.  Note: the hanger should be secured through the back paneling AND into the back support.  

Last step! In order to install the Guitar Display Case we will use the remaining 1×4″ board that was ripped with a 45 degree angle. This will serve as a cleat for the case to hang on. (The opposing cleat is installed on the back of the Guitar Display Case. You can see all the build plan details here.

There you have it, a functional piece of art that will elevate the look and feel of any guitar/space. I really feel like this Guitar Display Case gives off the moody vibes that I was trying to achieve in this music studio.

Thanks so much for following along!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post Guitar Display Case appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

 There you have it folks, an adorable alternative to the classic stand alone kennel!   This project only took an afternoon and could easily work with any lower cabinet! 

The post Convert Cabinet to Dog Crate appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

The dimensions of this build will be based on the dimensions of your cabinets. Therefore a comprehensive cut list is not included.

Begin measuring the entire width of your cabinets.

 Things to consider when measuring:

• If there are several cabinets in a row, measure the entire width of the adjoined cabinets.

                 Width of Cabinets + ½” (overhang) + ½” (overhang) = Length of 12 ½” & 10” horizontal boards.

• If the cabinet series dead ends into a wall.

Width of Cabinets + ½” (overhang)= Width of Boards  12 ½” & 10” horizontal boards.

• If the cabinet series dead ends into walls on both sides= Width of the cabinets= Width of 12 ½” & 10” horizontal boards.

 The depth of “Upper Cabinets” is fairly universal.  However, for clarity sake, you take the depth measurement of your cabinets and add ½”.

Prep Boards

 I used 3/4″ Plywood for all of my boards. In order to hide the exposed ply  I used edge banding to wrap my boards edges. 

Before assembling I prefer to sand my boards.

Attach Sides

Secure the sides to the top board by driving 1.5″ screws through the top board and into the sides below. Use the diagram below for dimensions and spacing.

Attach Bottom of Under Cabinet Shelf

Using 1.5″ screws secure the bottom of the shelf by driving screw through the bottom shelf and into the side supports above it. ( See diagram below for more dimensions and spacing.)

Attach Back Support for Shelf Under Cabinet

 Using  1.25″ pocket holes screws secure the upper back support to the interior of the shelf.  See the below diagram for dimensions.

Assemble Base of Under Cabinet Shelf

 Using the below diagram  drill pocket holes and attach the back bottom support to the sides of corbels. ( The dimension of this board will vary based on your cabinets.)

Width of Horizontal Boards – 1/2″(overhang) – 1/2″(overhang) – 1 3/4″ (corbel) – 1 3/4″ (corbel) = Interior Bottom Support

Attach Base Support

Using  DAP Weldwood and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws,  secure the support to the bottom of the shelf. (See diagram below for dimensions and spacing.)

Attach to Cabinet

For more details on how I secured the shelf to the cabinet see my full tutorial here.

The post Shelf Under Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover: My Sister-in-law and Brother had a basic standard kitchen. They did a marvelous job and added character by painting their kitchen cabinets. It made the space 100x’s better, but it still felt like it was missing something. Originally the plan was to build up the cabinets to the ceiling, but we were in a bit of a time and $$ crunch so we opted to raise the original cabinets to the ceiling and create a cute custom shelf underneath. A big thank you to the the great folks at DAP and their wonderful product line that I have known and trusted for YEARS!

This post is sponsored by Dap Products*

Remove Cabinets

When removing an upper cabinet I would suggest having someone to help carry the weight, or install a ledger board beneath it.

( A ledger board is a board that is secured to the wall under a cabinet that will help carry it’s weight while either removing or installing a cabinet.)

Most cabinets are secured through the interior back and into a stud in the wall behind it. Often times there will be screws that connect the cabinet to the bordering cabinet.

Re-Install Cabinets

Once all the cabinets are down, it is time to reinstall them! Remember that “ledger board” we talked about? It is time to take careful measurements and attach a board to the wall at your preferred LEVEL height. In this case I raised the cabinets 9.5″, the goal was to raise the cabinets so that they are 3.75″ from the ceiling.

Keep in mind practicality, you will still need to be able to access at least the bottom cabinet shelf. For reference they have 8′ ceilings and 30″ cabinets.

Theoretically, when raising cabinets you can use the same screw holes that were originally used to install. If your cabinets were originally installed correctly then the screws should be going into studs. If you are raising the cabinets directly up you SHOULD still be hitting studs with your screws. ( Studs run vertically, thus you will be still hitting the same stud, only 9.5″ higher.)

Add Trim

As noted earlier, I installed the cabinets 3.75″ from the ceiling. This was planned! I ultimately planned on using a 1×4″ primed board to bridge the gap between the top of the cabinets and the ceiling.

The first step in this process is beefing up the top of the cabinet so that I had something to attach the 1×4″ trim board to. To do this I used scrap piece of 3/4″ plywood and tacked them to the top of the cabinet. ( As you can see in the image below the top of the cabinet has a dead space where the face frame (front of the cabinet) extends 3/4″ up past the cabinet carcass (cabinet box). The plywood will bridge that gap and give me a solid way to secure a 2×4 to the top of the cabinet.

I drove 2.5″ screws up through the cabinet box, through the 3/4″ plywood and into the 2×4″ board. This will ensure that the 2×4 is stable and can support the next step: TRIM.

As stated earlier I used 1×4″ primed pine finger board. First, measure and cut boards to desired length. Using 1.5″ 16 gauge nails I attached the primed board to the front of the 2×4″.

With most ceilings you will have subtle elevation changes. In order to hide any gaps I like to use 3/4″ PVC cove molding (paired with Alex Flex All Purpose Caulk) to hide gaps and create a decorative look. ( If you have a pin nailer, I would highly recommend using it on light weight trim.

Install Backsplash

This kitchen had a basic 3.5″ counter backsplash. Which is perfect opportunity to use paneling! (I would not suggest resting MDF paneling directly on a counter top where it would be more susceptible to water damage.)

For more details on on how to install paneling I have a more in-depth tutorial here.

Build Under Cabinet Shelf

So… we have a pretty backsplash and cabinets that are sitting 9.5 inches higher than standard… now what ?! We DEFINITELY still want to utilize that lower space. The goal is to create additional storage space higher (inside the cabinet), NOT to take away the functional lower space. In order to do that I’m going to BUILD a lower shelf.

These lower shelves are custom made to the cabinet above it.

Prep Under Cabinet Shelves

The secret to making this new shelf look seamlessly integrated is in the finish work ! After the build is complete, we need to make it look PERFECT! To do that I use DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler to hide any nail holes. Once dry sand smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. Before painting use Alex Flex Caulk to make all the seams disappear!

After all the finish work is complete it is time for paint. These cabinets were previously painted by the owner. Luckily, they had extra paint on hand. If you are trying to match these to factory finish cabinets, I would recommended taking one of your cabinet doors to Sherwin Williams and have them color match and give a finish recommendation. (Paint will also be used to paint the trim.)

I prefer to use a paint sprayed when working on cabinetry, if you are looking to paint your existing cabinets, or just need a quick tutorial on hand painting cabinets I have a full tutorial here.

When designing this build I incorporated back supports that would allow for an easy install. I drove 2.5″ screws through the back support and into the studs behind them. ( I marked the stud placement when installing the upper cabinets.)

I then secured the shelf to the bottom of the cabinet. This will help carry the weight and hide any seams or gaps between the new shelf and the old cabinet.

Repair and Paint

Now to make it all look unified. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH… don’t skip the finish work! When done properly it will make this cabinet look like it was custom built for this space, NOT an afterthought.

Fill all the screw holes that were created from installing the shelf. When working on painted pieces I hands-down prefer DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler. Simply, fill holes, allow to dry and then sand smooth.

Next, make sure EVERY joint and seam is caulked with Alex Flex Caulk. Filling these seams before painting will ensure a seamless appearance.

I typically will do all my finish work at the same time. In this case I needed to fill any nails holes in the trim using DAP Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler and caulk all the trim joints and seams.

Caulking is not only for aesthetics, it is also for practicality. For instance where the “backsplash” paneling meets the counter backsplash. Using a good waterproof caulk like AMP Kitchen Bath and Plumbing Sealantwill help protect that joint from water damage.

After all caulk is dry do any necessary paint touch up!

Add Decorative Touches

To finish up the space I used an inexpensive pot rack to fill the blank space above the range. Lastly, I used their plates and cups to the lower shelf. The point of this shelf and raised cabinets is to increase storage not to loose it… SO without further adieu, I give you a “Raised Cabinet Kitchen”!

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover

Ta-da! It’s amazing what just a few days and elbow grease can do for a space! The differences actually take a minute to pinpoint, but the impact is huge!

Raised Kitchen Cabinet Breakdown

For LESS than $150 we completely transformed this space!!! Granted I had some supplies on hand. Obviously, this will be based on how large your kitchen is. In order to make these shelves I used less than a half sheet. ( Plywood could run up to $80 a sheet.)

I CAN NOT get over how much a difference raising cabinets can make. Thanks so much for taking the time to read and if you aren’t following along social, please consider checking it out!

Take Luck,

Corey

Raised Kitchen Cabinets

Sources:

• Upper Cabinet  Color- Sherwin Williams  “Snowbound”  
• Lower Cabinet  Color-  Behr
• Wall Pot Rack- Amazon 
• Decorative Utensils- Amazon
• Nickel-gap Boards- Home  Depot 
• Shelf Corbels- Lowes  

The post Raised Kitchen Cabinet Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

The back of our pantry door was empty, and I needed a spice rack. This DIY back of the door spice rack was just the ticket.

Prep Materials

Mark, measure and cut all materials to specified measurements.

This spice rack includes 1/8″ steel rods. These will serve as holders to keep the spices from falling off the rack. While this rack does require something to hold the cards in place, it does NOT need to be rods. A simple 1×2 primed board would work beautifully too.

Drill Holes

If you are planning to use steel rods, mark and drill holes prior to assembly. Gauge of rod is based on desired aesthetics. I used 1/8″ rod and it made for easy assembly because it had a little bit of flexibility. If you desire a thicker look I would recommend installing rod before assembly.

Assemble Back of Door Spice Rack

When assembling I always use DAP Weldwood Wood Glue. This rack will be holding a decent amount of weight and I want to ensure it has Weldwood Wood Glue to give it the strength it needs.

My secret weapon when assembling is Weldwood Wood Glue and a pin nailer. (Even if I am using other forms of fasteners.) I first apply WeldWood Wood Glue and then use a pin nailer to tack in place. The pin acts as a clamp while the wood glue cures , giving me a perfect joint every time.

I use the same method when applying the panel backing. I apply a small bead of Weldwood Wood Glue on the back slats and frame, then drop the paneling in place and tack with a pin nailer.

( I routed out the back of my spice rack so that the paneling would not be visible from the side. This is not necessary for functionality of spice rack.)

Prep for Paint

 Before painting I want to make sure this spice rack is flawless in order to do this, I use Dap Plastic Wood All Purpose Wood Filler .   I will fill all pin holes,  joints and if desired pocket holes. Once it is completely dried,  sand smooth with a high grit sand paper. 

After sanding smooth the entire spice rack it’s time to perfect this build. The best way to make seams completely disappear is using a good caulk. I always opt for DAP caulk, for this project I used Alex Plus All Purpose Caulk. Simply apply a small bead to all seams, smooth, and allow to dry.

Paint Back of Door Spice Rack

Time to make this spice rack uniquely your own; time to paint! I painted the base of my spice rack “Agreeable Gray” by Sherwin Williams. I prefer to use my Graco TC Sprayer when painting detailed pieces.

I wanted to “spice up” the rods as well. I first primed them using a spray primer and then applied multiple light coats of Rustleoum Metallic Gold Spray paint.

Once bars are completely dry before adding to the body of the spice rack. First I applied a small amount of RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive, then gently flex and pop the rods into place.

Prep Door

The biggest concern when creating this spice rack was making sure that my door would be able to handle the weight. I love my door, but it’s drop panel design is not ideal for this spice rack. So I made a few modifications!

I used Weldwood Wood Glue to attach two 1/2″ boards in the inset space. By beefing up this area and using a GOOD wood glue it would create the perfect support for my spice rack! (Make sure you allow the glue to fully cure before securing spice rack.

Install Back of Door Spice Rack

In order to secure the spice rack to the door I used 1 1/4″ screws along the top and bottom support rails.

the last thing this spice rack needed was a rail to hold the jars in place. In order to place the welding rods in place, I added a small dab of RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive to the both ends of the rod. Then place one end into the allocated drilled hole, slightly bend the rod so that the other end of the rod can go into the opposing pre-drilled hole. Gently finesse into place. The RapidFuse All Purpose Adhesive will hold the rods snug.

To finish off this custom shelf I added very simple style jars and labels.

Source List:

• Paint Color-  “Agreeable Gray”  Sherwin Williams
• Spray Paint- “Metallic Gold”  Rustoleum
• Welding Rods- Amazon
• Spice Jar Labels- Amazon
• Spice Jars- Amazon
• Rubber Bumpers for Jars- Amazon

The post Back of Door Spice Rack appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I have dreamed about having a pool ever since we moved to Florida…(10 years ago). Well, I am happy to report, that after years of saving up and waiting for the right timing we finally have a pool!

There were many reasons I wanted a pool: Obviously, I love swimming and wanted to be able to swim with my family. Another reason: I wanted our home to be a place that my boys’ and their friends would want to be. Last but certainly not least, I love to have a place to entertain mine, and my husbands’ large families.

As you can see I planned the pool area to have a large patio space. The goal was to create several separate spaces for seating. A lot of thought went into the deck layout and it was ultimately decided to create 3 different seating areas.

Patio Seating

Patio Dining Area

Patio Lounging

Patio Essentials

Sources: 

7-Piece Rustic Farmhouse Dining Set : “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

6-Piece Vineyard  Sectional: “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

Nautical Chaise: “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

Coffee Table: “Vintage Sahara” finish w/ “Natural Linen” cushions 

Rectangle Umbrella: Amazon 

10″ Circle Umbrella: Amazon

Napkins: World Market 

Napkin Rings:  Hobby Lobby Fall 2022

Porch Sconce Lights: Amazon 

Clear Pool Floats: Amazon 

The post Pool Patio Design appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.