I don’t really keep it a secret that I am not necessarily a connoisseur  in the kitchen.  Don’t get me wrong, I can cook when I really  put my mind to it,  but it’s kind of  like making my husband  uhh,  I mean KIDS take family pictures.  There may be some huffing and puffing, some bribery,  and possibly  tears, but in the end it turns out all right.  (At least nothing a little photoshop can’t fix  I digress,  the inspiration behind today’s post was actually a bake sale.  Our church hosts a dessert auction every year and instead of buying something from the store and trying to pass it off as homemade, I decided to play to my strengths. I am a builder not a baker.  (But you have to agree those cookies look lovely! They tasted like little morsels of heaven too. Like I said,  I CAN bake  I would just rather chew my own arm off.)  Oh man,  I am two-time digresser… digresse?,  like I was saying, I decided to build this adorable dessert carrier filled with cookies as my contribution and it went amazingly well!

 Dessert Carrier/Pie Box 

BEFORE YOU BUILD-

I did not use finish that would allow me to serve food directly on it, I still have a protective barrier between anything edible and the finish.

Mine vs. Yours: Today  I am going to show you how to make a dessert carrier/pie box.  One thing to note,  I have access to a planer, and wanted to make my box a little more low profile, so I planed all my boards down to 1/2″ thickness.  I realize not everyone has access to one, so I  used the dimensions of a standard size board 3/4″ for these build plans! 

Supply List:

• 1″x 12″ x 6′  Pine Board
• 5/8″ Dowel Rod
• 2″x 1/4″ Bolt with Nuts
• (4) 1/4″ Washers
• (2) 1/4″ Locking Washer
• (2) Wooden Knobs
• (4) Small Hinges
• Carbon/Transfer Paper (Optional)
• White Wash Pickling (Optional)
• Jacobean Stain (Optional)

Tools Recommended:

• Table Saw
• Miter Saw
• Drill and 1/4″ Drill Bit
• Finish Nailer
• 5/8″ Forstner Bit

Cut List:

• Base: 11 1/4″ x 11 1/4″
• Sides:  12 3/4″  Reference “Step 3”
• Tall Sides:  See “Step 2”
• Lids:
• Side Handle:  1 1/2″x 9 3/4″
• Dowel: 14 1/4″- 14 1/2″ (Depending on thickness of the washers you use.)

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1:  Cut Diagram

Ok,  the day didn’t quite go as planned, and I will have a cut diagram soon-ish.

Step 2:  The Base

Did you know: When  you purchase a standard 1″ x 12″ board it’s finished dimensions should actually  be 3/4″x 11 1/4″   so you will just need to make one cut in order to get a 11 1/4″ x 11 1/4″  base.

Step 3:  “Tall Sides”

Cut (2)  of these  “tall sides” to the below dimensions.

Once cut you will attach to two opposing sides.  I first applied wood glue and then reinforced with 1- 1/2″ , 18 gauge nails. 

Step 4:   Short Sides

When  cutting the sides you will  want to use the table saw set at a 24 degree angle.

If all goes according to plan, the  sides/angles should continue flawlessly.  If “life happened” somewhere in there,  you can always level it out with some sand paper.

Again, I first applied wood glue and then reinforced with 1- 1/2″ , 18 gauge nails.

Step 5:  Lids

Ok, I am going to throw some more angles at you.  Breathe deep! Actually. all the angles  you will be using are 24 degree angles.   Each lid will be 7″ (from short point to long point) x 12 3/4″ inches. reference the diagram below,  you got this.

You may  have noticed that my lids appear as though it is made up of four different boards. It is all an illusion my Dear Watson.  I  just  used my table saw to cut a groove out in the center of my board. It is about 1/4″ wide and a 1/4″ deep.  Not necessary,  but I like the look of it , and I like to overly complicate everything.
 Next we are ready to install the hinges. I installed (x4) 1-1/2″ hinges,  approximately  1 1/2″  from each edge. I REALLY  wish I had some sage advice… all I can say is “Take Luck” my friend.

Step 6:  Handle

Next the handle.  We will be drilling 2 different holes in the side section of the handle.  The handle is the same dimensions of a 1″x 2 ” standard board (which is actually 3/4″x 1 1/2″,  yeah confusing right?)  Anyways, you can make your handle  using a 1″ x 2″  standard board or you can cut some of the scrap from your 1″x 12″ board.  Either way works.

Next  attach the the handles using the bolts, washers, and nut. 

Once both of the side handles are attached, added a dab of wood glue to both recently  drilled holes.  One the dowel was in place I left it there to dry  until the glue set. If you have a pin nailer I would suggest nailing through the side handle  so that it connects with the dowel rod.

Now would also be a good time to add knobs,  if you feel so inclined.

Step 7:  Finishing Touches

To finish mine, I stained mine with Jacobean Stain.  After staring at it for two days, I decided I would much prefer it lighter.  So I  then added  two layers of  White Wash Pickling.  It lightened it up and gave it an old warn look.  I decided to play up the worn look and  scuffed up the edges using sandpaper.

Once the finish was dry, I decided to add a touch more detail. (Seriously, I can’t leave well enough alone to save my life.)  I free-handed this “Baked Goods”  sign on to my  carrier.  Lucky for you, I made a copy so that you can simply  use Carbon/Transfer Paper !   Click here : Baked Goods Template and print! 

After the image is transferred I went over the design with black acrylic paint,  once it had time to dry, I  used a little bit of sandpaper to distress the signage.  

 That is pretty much it!   Oh and if you are wondering… it brought in $120 at the church  auction.  BAM!

  Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Dessert Carrier/ Pie Box appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all!  You all KNOW I love a good furniture makeover/upcycle/re-purpose project right ?  Well, if you didn’t I am telling you now! (You can check out my other re-purposed furniture projects here.)  There is something about the challenge!  (As a builder it is normally easier for me to start from scratch.)  I love working with something  plain ol’ Jane and giving it a very satisfying transformation.  Admit it, you love that part of Fixer Upper, Princess Diaries, etc…  For today’s project I am teaming up with the great folks at Kreg,  to show you, you don’t need to be a skilled craftsman to add  the “WOW” factor to those old pieces of furniture gathering dust ! So let’s do this, let’s give this old cabinet a makeover!

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Cabinet Makeover 

Supplies I Used:

• Old Cabinet in need of a facelift
• Materials for Faceframe (1″x 3″ and 1″x 2″ boards are common)
• Chicken Wire
• Concealed Hinges
• 1/2″-3/4″ Plywood (for constructing the drawers)
• Heavy Duty Stapler (attaching chicken wire to interior of doors)

Tools I Used:

• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
• Steel Prybar  (I used this to remove original the original face frame)
• Miter Saw
• Drill
• Kreg Drawer Slide Jig
• Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig
• Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig
• Heavy Duty Stapler

 Step 1. The Carcass

Ok,  I know “carcass” may sound a little morbid, but  not worries, I am not loosing my mind to the nature channel. “Carcass”  is what cabinet makers refer to the base of  a cabinet. (Now you will sound official should you ever need to contribute to conversation at a woodworkers convention. You’re welcome.) Moving on.

Alright this part is not always necessary, but for the vision that I had for this, it would make it easier. Which leads perfectly into …

Step 2. Building  a Face Frame

Making a Face Frame is once of the easiest things you can do totally  change the entire look and function of  a piece.  I was able to use part of the original face frame and simply add a few rails. (“Rails” are the wooden pieces that run horizontally. As opposed to “Stiles” that run vertical.)  Look at you, learning vernacular  like a beast!

There are a lot of methods to making a “face frame”, my preferred method, (and by far the easiest in my opinion) is using a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig. They are very user friendly, and make it possible to join the rails and stiles perfectly!

Step 3. Attach Face Frame

Alright, now we are ready to re-attach our face frame.  There are several ways to do this,  you can use Kreg Pocket Hole Jig or  you can use wood glue and clamps. 

Step 4. Bring your “A” game! (Add drawers)

Remember those “rails” we added?  This is why I did it… I wanted to add drawers!  Never made a drawer ? It’s not hard , you are essentially  making a box!  The one thing that always  freaked me out about adding  drawers was installing the glides!  Am I right ? Seriously they left me cursing and then breathing into a paper bag. ( I can do hard things, I can do hard things!)  Kreg  must have heard my cry of obscenities, because they  created a jig that would save me time and bring my shop talk back to G-rated…  Well, that’s a lie, but  it was definitely closer to a PG-13 level.

They created these beauties!  GAME CHANGERS.

These Kreg Drawer Slide Jigs level, measure, gives you an extra set of hands, and makes dinner. Ok,  maybe not make dinner, but you get what I am saying,  these things help me get it right the first time!  These jigs clamp right in place and have tabs that hold it perfectly in place. Seriously, game changer.  But wait there is more!  They not only  help install the glides to the cabinet, they perfectly allow you to install the slides to the drawers themselves. No more adjusting and drilling a hundred tiny holes and praying you get it right.  The drawers are positioned for perfect alignment.  

Step 5 . Add Doors

Another great way to bring your makeover to the next level is to add doors!  I wanted to have something that would give it character,  not just a paneled door.  So,  formed two empty frame doors.
 It is a very simple build that only requires adding  Kreg Pocket Holes to the rails. Clamp them down and screw them in place…Phrasing.   Now for the hinges…  Installing hinges use to send me running for my  paper bag. Not anymore!  I used the new Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig.   You just clamp it in place and drill, then repeat.   Perfection. 

When it comes to adding the doors I like to put them on a board that rests on the ground and then attach the hinges to the interior of the cabinet.   This little trick will ensure that the doors sit perfectly with no wonky business going on.

Step 6. Add Drawer Fronts

Next I made my drawer fronts from a piece of 1’x 10″  pine.  I measure so that the drawer would be 1″ wider AND taller that the opening for the drawer. (This will create a 1/2″ overlap all the way around.)  I picked my hardware and was ready to install. Again Kreg ingenuity to the rescue.   They have create a Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig that allows yo to adjust the exact placement of your drilled holes, and has preset notches for standard width handles, pulls, and knobs!  My favorite part, is the steel collar that allows your drill to essentially  become a pseudo drill-press.  The collar ensures that the hole is drilled STRAIGHT! ( I am ashamed to admit I have had my kitchen cabinets hole placement have a little bit of crazy-eyed action going on.  No more! 

Now that the drawer front  has the pull/handle  installed,  I was ready to attach the drawer front to the drawer.  I used clamps to hold the drawer front in place and used

I like to use the same tip to add my drawer fronts as I did my cabinet doors. (See step 5. )

Step 7. Finishing Touches

I wanted to give it a little height and some farmhouse character, so I added  some screw on legs right before I painted it.  (  I removed the drawer hardware so that I could use a paint sprayer to apply the paint.)

  While that was drying I took the back ( that we already removed), and cut it up!  Yup, I cut it up into about 5.5″ strips, sanded the edges, and then painted them white as well.  This will create a fun shiplap look for the backing. Once the strips were dry  I reattached them to the back with wood glue , and reinforced with 1″ finish nails. 

I also added some trim  and a wood  slab to the top to add balance to the top. Also, I really wanted this to be a two-tone piece (paint and stain combined in the same piece).  The new trim and top slab of wood, would allow me to create the “two-tone” look.  

The only  thing  I needed to do was re-attach the doors and add “chicken wire”  to the inside of the doors and this baby was done!

  Ta-Da! Mind BLOWN! #micdrop

 Well there you have it folks, yet another win for re-purposed projects everywhere!

Take Luck,

Corey

The post A Cabinet Makeover that will turn heads! appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Today I am excited to be teaming up with the great folks over at Crates and Pallet to bring you some AWESOME new build plans featuring their ever popular Large Wooden Crate! I am sure you have seen these available at many large retailers, including Home Depot.,,

Which bring me to some other exciting news!  I am teaming up with some of my favorite blogger friends Jaime from That’s My Letter and Jen from The House of Wood, along with the wonderful folks Crates and Pallet to bring you some giveaways!

Enter below for your chance to win a $50 Home Depot gift card! (Three winners will be chosen!)

a Rafflecopter giveaway

When it comes to hiding toy clutter, I love to reference Pottery Barn Kids for great inspiration!  They recently carried a”Low Crate Storage” dresser, it was perfect solution for the kids room/ toy room dilemma. They don’t currently carry this piece of furniture, but that is no problem, because today  I am going to show you how I made my own using the “Large Crate” from Crates and Pallet!

How to Make a Pottery Barn Inspired Crate Dresser

Materials Used:

• (1) 4’x 8′  3/4″ Plywood
• (3) 1″x 3″ Board
• (3) 1″x .5″ Board (Typically found with specialty woods, mine came in 3′ pieces)
• (6) Large Crate
• 1.5″ Pocket Hole Screws
•  1.5″ nails
• Wood Glue
• Wood Stain

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Kreg Jig
• Table Saw
• Nail Gun
• Miter Saw
• Sander

Cut List:

From the 4’x 8′ x  3/4″ (See Diagram Below) 

• (2) @ 61  1/2″ x 13″
• (1) @ 63″x 13″
• (2) @ 28 3/4″x 13″
• (4) @ 9″x 12 3/4″

From 1″x 3″ Boards 

• (3) @ 64 1/2″ WITH 45° angles on BOTH ends.(It will measure 64 1/2″ from long point to long point)
• (6) @  13 3/4″ WITH 45 ° angle on ONE end. (It will measure 13 3/4″ from straight cut to long point)

From 2″x 1/2″ Board

• (6) @ 11″

Step 1: Assemble Frame 

When joining the plywood together,  I suggest using  wood glue, pocket holes, and pocket hole screws at all joints.

Step 2: Add Dividers

Again, when I join  plywood together I always use pocket holes, and pocket hole screws. For added security  I usually use wood glue as well.
Step 3: Add 1″x 3″ Trim

After the base unit is assembled,  attach the 1″x 3″ trim boards.  When attaching mine, I used 1 1/2″ finish nails and for added strength I used wood glue as well. ( This piece is going in my kids toy room, so I will basically  just slather the entire thing in wood glue, for good measure.)

Repeat the same process on the sides. Just slather it, and attach with 1 1/2″ nails.  When attaching these, mind that they are square… (You can do hard things!)

Step 4: Add 2″x  1/2″ Trim 

You are almost there!   All you need to do is add  the 1/2″ trim pieces. Same routine, slather, and then nail.

Step 5: Finish

At this point you are essentially done building! Now for the fun part… (I’m trying to be an optimist… today.)  Next you GET to fill all the  nail holes!  Once the filler has dried,  you have the opportunity to sand the entire unit! Lastly,  pick your color and finish that sucker!  I used Jacobean by Minwax. (It is my Ol’reliable.)

Step 6: Add Back Panel (if desired)

I set my dresser up against a wall so there was no need to add a  piece of back paneling.  However it is an option, should you need it.  If not, step back and enjoy  the fact that you are done! And soon, very soon there will be far less toys strewn about the floor. (Haha,  good luck with that Momma!)

 Thanks so much for stopping by!  Make sure you enter in the giveaway at the beginning of the post and you check out these other awesome sites  to see how they use crates!

House of Wood 

That’s My Letter 

One Arsty Mama

Damask Love

At Home with Natalie

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Pottery Barn Inspired Crate Dresser appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I did it,  I finally did it!   I have documented the process for building this case and I am super excited to share  it with you today! HOWEVER,  let me make this  VERY  clear,  it is not a  SAFE.  It is a SECRET compartment. The  fact that it is hidden and requires knowledge on how to open it is what makes this work.   My children have NO clue that there is anything contained in the mirror. If you are considering making this you will need to take into account your own/family/home environment and needs.  With that being  said, I am EXCITED To bring you this tutorial!

UPDATE:  As my kids have gotten older,  I have added a key lock to the secret compartment.  I don’t think it is completely necessary yet, but in a few years it would be wise to have back up.  You can see the updates on the second part of this tutorial HERE. 

PLEASE READ BEFORE YOU START BUILDING:

When I originally built this, I NEVER planned on making it into a tutorial. When I make builds for a tutorial, I try to make them easy to follow, budget friendly, and use standard size lumber.  This is not really any of those things.  I just wanted to put that out there.

This is not a beginner level build.  I am not saying this is advanced,  with artistic joints. However,  I AM saying that if you have not worked with wood often, this may be frustrating! Sometimes the slightest bowing in a board can throw off everything!  Another thing to consider when making this, these ARE NOT standard size boards.  I custom made most of them to fit my needs. If  you have access to a table saw this is do-able…

 If you are still with me, then you are my kind of people!  Let’s do this!

Supplies Used:

I ended up needing to buy a lot of  my supplies online,  because they were either A.) Significantly Cheaper or B.) The only  place I could find them.  That  being said,  this post does include affiliate links.

• Wood Glue
• Wood Filler
• 2×4″  (2)
• 1×6″ (1)
• 1×2″ (2)
• 1×4″ (2)
• 1/2″ plywood
• 4×8′ pegboard
• Hillman Group 1/4 x 3/8 x 1-Inch Spacer (3)
•  1/4″ x 3″ carriage bolts  (2)
• 1/4 x 4″ threaded rod
• Eastland 5″ Square Beveled Mirror (40)
• Gas Strut Lift Support (4)
•  1.5″eyelet hooks (x2)
• Piano Hinge (2)
• Soft-Close Dampeners(Optional)
• 10-LED Wireless Motion Sensing LED Light(Optional)
• Hangman French Cleat with Hardware (2)(Optional)

Tools Suggested :

• Miter Saw
• Router (Table Saw can work)
• Table Saw
• Drill
• 3/8″ Drill bit
• Forstner Bit 3/4-Inch
• Kreg Jig
• Drill  Press  (Would be IDEAL, but I managed without one.)
• Nailer and Compressor (Ideally,  but do-able without if you are determined.)

 Frame-

– I ripped 2×4’s  down so that their  finished dimensions  are 2  5/8′ x 1  1/2″.

 Using a  router or a table saw route out a lip  on the  inside/ back of the “2×4’s” . This lip will serve as a recess that the peg board will sit in.  See image below:

  Cut List: (using the custom sized 2×4’s)

(x2) 30 1/8″

(x2) 44 3/4″

 Take ONE of the 30 1/8″ boards and  drill holes according to the below diagram.   I would HIGHLY suggest using a drill press.  If these are not straight holes, it will be difficult to shut/open.

After holes are drilled , assemble the frame.  Using a Kreg Jig make  pocket holes on the exterior of the 44 3/4″ boards.  (See the below diagram.)

Doors-

 The doors were cut from 1/2″ plywood.  There will be an 1/8″ gap  where the two pieces meet .

• Cut List :
• 12″ x  47 3/4″
• 18″ x  47  3/4″

-Install Hinges

Piano Hinges  come in a standard 48″ measurement.  In order to make it fit, I cut both down to 47″.

This can be down several ways:

•  Hack saw
•  Grinder
•  Using an abrasive disk on circular saw

Trim-

A.)

  To create the trim (seen in the above Diagram A.) You will need to cut down a 1×2″ board  so that it’s finished dimensions are 3/4″ x 1 3/8″.  Once the board is resized,   groove  measuring 1/8″ x 1/8″ will  need to be notched out.  Either using a router, or  a table saw. ( See the image below.)

Once the “1×2” is cut to the specified dimension,  it will need  (2) 45 degree cuts on each of the ends. (I was getting confused simply  writing how to make these cuts.  So I am making it a little easier, here is a video on how to make the top and bottom trim pieces.)

Cut  board so that it is 49 1/4″ long with 45 ° angles  on both ends. (It will be 49 1/4″  long point to long point)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0464asRpQA

 B.)

 Rip down a 1×4″ so that its width is 2  7/16″ wide.  Using the custom sized  “1×4″ boards cut (2) boards so that they are 49  1/4” long point to long point with 45 degree angles on end. ( See Diagram B for clarification)

C.)

Rip down a 1×6″ so that its width is  4 1/2″ wide.   Using the custom sized “1×6″  cut (2) boards so that they are 31  5/8”  long point to long point with 45 degree angles on end. (See diagram C. for clarification.) Proceed to attach JUST the right side,  leaving the left unattached.

– Left Trim Piece-

Before I show you how to install this, I want to show you what function this will be serving. As you can see in the image below,  that the holes need to line up exactly!  If they do not, they will bind up making it difficult/impossible to shut or open.

Because this step  required precision,  I would suggest using this method.  (In the Images below the side frame piece (the stained piece) will already be attached to your frame.)

A.) Line up your left side trim piece that  you cut earlier.   (COMPLETE STEPS A, B, and C  for the top hole first!)

B.) Place a bolt  through the top hole, and then hit lightly with a mallet, this will leave an indent showing you the exact location  of where the receiving end of the bolt should be placed.  C.)  Using a 3/4″ Forstner bit, drill out a mere 1/8″. ( This is not imperative, but there will be a 1/8″ gap between the trim and the frame if this recess is not created in the trim).  This hole will hold  a “T-Nut” so  that it sits flush with with wood.   I added a small amount of  “Liquid Nails” to the base before screwing into place.  Then add the 1/4″ x 3″ carriage bolt,  so that it goes through the frame and into the “T-Nut”.

Once  steps A, B, and C, are completed for the top hole,  proceed to do the same process for the bottom hole, and then lastly  do the middle.

Continue to Part 2

THIS IS AN ENTERTAINMENT BLOG:

When  using the tutorials, BUILD AT YOUR OWN RISK , always take necessary safety precautions! We will not be responsible for any injury or damage incurred while following a tutorial from our site. None of our posts should be considered expert advice; please consult a professional when needed, read all safety and instruction manuals, and take all safety precautions.

The post Secret Compartment Mirror appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

As many of you have  seen in previous posts, I have been in the process of transforming my  garage into my  “workshop”.   If you recall, I had used a plethora  of old cabinets, scrap wood, and free Craisglist finds to  create my cabinets.  ( See all the details here.)    One of the free cabinets I used as my base, was actually intended to be used as a corner piece, so it did not have a door. ( See image below.)

Instead of making a simple door and drawer to match the rest of the lower cabinets I had a better idea…

Have you ever been to a hardware, and seen the isle that consists primarily of rows of small  drawers,  all filled with all sorts and sizes of treasures ?  I have, and I  kind of love them. I  have always  joked to my  husband, that when we  are  independently wealthy I will NEED those drawers in my workshop.

Well, for those who know me, I have never been a patient person…

Fate would have it that the great folks at D. Lawless hardware were willing to help out on my little renovation.

So let’s dive in.

  I proceeded to make 5 drawers. (If you need help making the drawers, I would refer you to the awesome Sandra at Sawdust Girl).

I got a little excited and forgot to take pictures of the process… again.

  Once my drawers were completed, I proceeded to install all of my drawer glides.

If you need help with the installation, they even have an online tutorial to help.

 My only  caution is measure,  measure, and measure.

Just look at how pretty it is!  To all my OCD readers, can I get an AMEN !?

  Next I added the drawer fronts.  I usually  glue mine  and then reinforce with finishing nails from the inside.    Once the drawer fronts were dry, I proceeded to paint…

NOW we are ready for the fun part!

Now that I have my drawers, it is time to organize them, and not just any system will do! I wanted it to be changeable and be completely customizable…

I kept looking through Home Depot’s  tool boxes/organization caddy’s.  I kept seeing this basic design. ( I have seen this system used for all sorts of organization, for example craft organization, or fishing tackle boxes.)  The basic premise , is that you can  add and remove dividers from the rows.

Which is EXACTLY what I wanted,  but they were all far too small…

So here is my solution…

I  began by  making  drawer dividers, using  1×3″ boards*.  I  simply measured the depth of the drawer and cut the 1×3’s to fit.

*I did plane my down a little, but this is not necessary.

Once I had all my dividers cut to fit ,  I removed them and  marked them at the size cubbies I wanted to create.  For example mine are about 4 ” apart.  The marks will  show  where  the notches will be cut in order to accommodate  the horizontal/removable  dividers.

Using a table saw,  I set  my guide so the  I would hit pre-marked lines.  I  set the depth approximately 3/16″ high.

Once all of the  notches  are cut,  place  the dividers in the drawers, and space them evenly!  Make sure you take the time to measure so that all the spaces are the same, which will allow the dividers to be interchangeable.

Once  all dividers are evenly placed,  they will need to be secured.   I used a small amount of wood glue on the bottom and ends of each of the dividers ( 1×3’s).  For additional support, I nailed them in place  using 2″ finishing nails;  starting on the outside of the frame and entering into the ends of the 1/3″ dividers.

Re-moveable Dividers-  Measure the distance from the inside notch to the inside notch of the subsequent divider, then subtract an 1/8″.  The 1/8″ will give it  just a little wiggle room so that you can easily  remove them when needed.

I ripped  down 1/8″ paneling board into 2.5″ strips.  Once they are in the strips, they can then be cut to the dimensions determined. (Above)

For example,  the space between my 1/3″ board dividers is 4 1/4″. I then  subtract my 1/8″  for wiggle room.  Which would make my panels/rectangles cut to 2.5″x 4 1/8″.

Then  you can add  dividers  depending on the supplies you have to store! As your inventory changes, so can your storage!

*sigh*

 Everything has a place, and everything in it’s place.  That is what keeps me sane.

  But wait, there is more!  What would these drawers be without labeled pulls ? They are the perfect finishing touch!

 D. Lawless has them for a steal-of-a-deal here.

The post Ultimate Drawer Organizer appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

 

Father’s  Day  will be here before you know  it!  Are you ready ?

Come to think of it so is the end of the school year… that means teacher gifts… dang.

What about that graduation party you  just received and announcement for ? Oh man, what about that baby shower?

  Wedding Reception ?

House warming party?

No matter what the occasion,  I’ve got your covered.   Check out how versatile this baby is!

Want to make one of your own !?  How about 3 or 12 ?   Get all your holiday  gifts done in one fell  swoop!

  I am over at Remodelaholic today, and  you can see  the entire tutorial here!

The post All Purpose, Every Occasion Caddy appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

 Supplies Used:

•  A whole bunch of FREE crap
• Elbow Grease
• Lots of of Work
• Clearance Hardware from Lowes

Ok, I am speaking to all of my skilled craftsmen out there,  please just ignore the following post. Seriously, stop reading. The following post will make you cringe.

BUT to all of my  DIYer,  makeover addicts, and frugal finders, you are gonna love this!  I am going to show you,  how I took a whole bunch of free Craigslist crap  and turned it into an awesome workspace.

It all started with these cabinets. These were originally from a High School  renovation.  There were three left and I was able to snag them for free!  I sanded them down, primed them, and then installed them.

The next question was what to use for counter tops… the cabinets from the high school,  did have a counter top,  BUT   I wanted to space out the cabinets to allow for more storage,   so the original counter top would be far too small.

Well my Husband was scrolling through the “free” section of Craigslist, and came upon  two FREE “all wood doors”.  So  he was my hero and went and snagged those from the curb.  Which was no easy feat, those beasts are HEAVY,  which is  probably why the owner assumed they were all wood…  They weren’t.  They were solid core, meaning they aren’t hollow,  but they were not solid wood. Which presented some problems,  but stay  tuned I will be showing you how I turned them into awesome  counter tops.

Next, I needed to create some overhead storage.  Over the past few months my husband acquired quite a collection of solid wood furniture for me.  He found them by  simply  perusing the “Free” section of Craigslist.  After moving all of these pieces from place to place while trying to organize the garage, I decided to sacrifice all my spare wood and potential projects towards the greater good of the garage. I tore them all apart and ripped them down to make my  cabinets.

Like I said,  all pro wood workers,  look away.  I am butchering these cabinets.

BUT  guess what they are in my garage, they  are going to take some abuse and are FREE.

Mic Drop.

  After a little bit of playing around with sizes, I came up with this configuration. I kept one of the cabinets in the original dimensions ( the center one) and then  installed the two side cabinets.    I then used 1×2’s and 1×3’s to make face frames for the cabinets.

The only  part of the project I really  spent money on was making the cabinet doors.   I  made a simple shaker style cabinet door.  I apparently  got a little ahead of myself and did not document the process.

BUT,  Jill  from “The Rozy Home” did   great post at Remodelaholic showing “How to Make a Shaker Cabinet Door”.

After deliberating over the cabinet color I settled on a dark gray.   I am not going to lie, I changed  some of the cabinets 3 times! After my frustrating trial runs, I realized I  really wanted them to match the floor.  So that is exactly what I did.  I had leftover paint from  refinishing the floor, and so that is what I used!  Ha.

 Last thing they needed was hardware.  A few months ago,  I was at Lowes and stumbled upon this hardware… all on CLEARANCE!  they were selling the small pulls for like $.49!   The large ones for $.97! I bought every single one, and I am so glad I did. I have used them everywhere and had just enough to put them on my garage cabinets!

  So there you have it,  my  nearly free modge podge garage cabinets.  There is a lot more to the garage renovation, but that will need to wait for another day.

 The moral of the story: If  you are hesitant to start an overhaul  because of the price, then  start hitting up the “free” section of Craigslist.  It WILL be a lot more work,  but it is A  LOT cheaper!

 Take Luck,

Corey

The post My Recycled Shop Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Materials Used:

• 1×6″  (x1 @ 6′)
• 1×3″  (x2 @8′)
• 1×8″  (x1 @6′)
• 1×2″  (x1 @ 8′)
• 1/2″ x  3  1/2 ” Board  ( I found this in the trim section, they were  only 1/2″ thick, or you can use a planer)
• Paneling 1/4″  (2’x4′ sheet)
• Cup Hooks  (x 10)
• Mirror ( 20″ x 15 3/4″)  I found that Lowes will cut  this size mirror for about $12.00
• Full Extension Ball Bearing drawer Glides 16″
• (3)  2″ drawer pulls
• (3)  Coat Hooks
• Wood Glue

Tools Suggested:

• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
• Table saw
• Finish Nailer

Making the Frame-

1×3″-

•  21 ” long point to long point  with 45 degree angles    (x2)
•  25″ long point to long point with 45 degree  angles     (x2)

• Using a Kreg Jig , drill pocket holes  in order to create  a 90 angle.
• Repeat on all four corners, in order to create the rectangle frame.

 The Back of the Framed Mirror-

1×3″-

• 19.5″   (x2)
•  25″     (x1)

 Paneling (1/4″)-

•     20 1/4″ x  23  1/2″

Using a Kreg Jig  make pocket holes to:

• Join the 2 joints.
• Attach the frame to the back.

Using wood glue,  secure the 20 1/4″  x  23 1/2″ paneling behind the frame opening.

Top Piece-

1×6″ Board  ( You will need to rip this down)

• 22″x 5″

Using wood glue place the board centered on top of the unit.  Then reinforce with 1″ wood screws. I wold suggest using a counter sink drill bit and pre-drill.

Corbel-

Use a 1×2″ board to make  the corbel.  Then attach  at the top corners of the mirror. 

Base-

1×8″ ( You will need to rip this down)

• 22″  x  7 1/4″  (x2)
• 5″ x 7 1/4″      (x2)

Drawer-

1×6″ ( You will need to rip this down)

• 19 1/4  x 4 3×4″ (x2)

1×4″ Board

• 5 1/2″  ( x2)

Paneling

• 6x 18 1/2″

In order to create the appearance of 3 individual drawers, I  made cuts in one of the 19 1/4″ boards.  To enhance that card catalog look I used small 2″ label pulls.

When making the drawer using  either a table saw or a router and cut a 1/4″ deep groove, approximately 1/2″ from the bottom edge. (See image below.)

Using a Kreg  Jig I attached the sides to the front of the drawer. Add  a small bead of glue to the cut out groove of the boards.  Then slide the paneling into the grooves.   Then attach back  with  glue and reinforce with a nailer.

Hook Base-

1×4″ Board-

• 19 1/2″
• 5″         (x2)   (These will be made into the corbels,see dimensions below.)

I   attached the  the corbels to the base board using pocket holes, and then fastened  it to the base of the jewelry  case.

( You can fill the holes with Kreg Jig Wood Plugs.)

Drawer Insert-

1×2″ Boards

• 22 1/2″ (x2)
• 16″        (x2)

Paneling 1/4″

• 22′ x 17 1/4″

Construct the fame using the 1 x 2″ boards. (Hold off on attaching the 1×3″ board until after you have installed the drawer glide.

At this point I would pre-drill the locations for your cup hooks.

Nearly  there! One of the last steps is adding the drawer glides.

Once you have your  drawer glide  installed, then add the 1×3″ trim board. (Remember this is only 1/2″ as opposed to standard boards that are typically 3/4″ thick. We need that ext 1/4″ allowance so that we can use a magnetic touch latch.  This will allow the opening to stay inconspicuous, while still allowing easy access.

The Finish-

I  used “Weathered Gray”  from Minwax, I then used a small amount of Minwax Jacobean to darken the edges and crevices.  I then white washed the entire unit two times.  Both times wiping away  any excess with a rag.  Once dried completely I  used a finishing wax.

 The Hardware –

After the finish has completely  dried,  it’s time to add the last of the hardware and the mirror. To place the mirror, I  smoothed an ample amount of Liquid Nails on  to the panel sitting with in the frame.  Gently set the mirror in place and allow to dry.

I decided to add trim  to the interior rim of  mirror, so it would hide the edges and create a nice finished look. (If you own a router, then you can easily route out the interior lip of the 1×3″ boards to  hide these edges as well.  I was simply  trying to make this tutorial more accessible to more readers. )

 Now, slap on the hooks and pulls!  I always love adding the finishing touches!  Only thing left to consider is how to install  it on a wall. I opted for this:

 Now,  hang er’ up and enjoy!     

The post Secret Compartment Jewelry Case appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.