The one thing I feel like my shop is missing is a paint booth. In the past I have used some pop-up tents, and I did find a nifty little attachment for sports canopies… but I still wanted something was a little more user friendly.

The Solution: DIY Paint Booth

My big requirement when designing a spray area was that it was easily accessible but did not take up much space. I decided to create heavy duty divider to help provide some protection to the rest of my shop from over spray. Here is what I cam up with:

I decided the best approach would be long heavy duty curtains that could be pulled open when in use and drawn shut when not in use. After a fair bit of research I decided that using IKEA curtain rods and drop cloths were the best approach.

* This is one of those projects that I will just show you in broad strokes what I did. Every space will be different and require different dimensions. For the sake of this tutorial, my ceilings are 10′ and the “paint booth” is approximately 13′ by 13′.

Installing Hooks for Paint Booth

I first mapped out how large I wanted my DIY paint booth to be. I then marked those dimesnions on my ceiling. My ceiling has exposed trusses which made this process very simple! I used my trusses to anchor my utility hooks. I understand that this is probably not the case in most garages/shops. It will take a little bit of work to map out where you have available trusses and/or ceiling joists.

Once anchor points are located, use a 1/4″ drill bit to pre-drill the location for the utility hooks.

After the holes are drilled hand screw in the utility hooks. ( I used rubber coated hooks so that it would prevent the curtain rod from slipping.)

I used the 1″ curtain rods from IKEA so they had some rigidity to them. After playing around with their strength I decided that one hook every 5′ was more than adequate.

Prep Curtains for Paint Booth

When preparing for this project I did experiment with several options. The front runners were tarps and drop cloths. Tarps where cheaper, but they were very light weight and blew all over the place. I tried adding some weights to the bottom of the tars using several different methods but ultimately decided the hassle wasn’t worth saving a few dollars. I went with the drop cloths.

the great thing about drop cloths is that they have a hefty weight to them, they are fairly affordable and come in many different sizes! I ended up using (x4) 12’x15′. ( I didn’t hem mine but if you wanted to make these more custom to your space, hemming is always an option.) If you want to know more about how to hem, check out this tutorial here: Hemming Curtains.

To make things simple I used curtain rings. There are pros and cons to using them; yes, it is cheaper to sew a pocket for the rod… however using the rings will make the curtains slide effortlessly. I ordered bulk packs of clips from Amazon and placed a ring approximately every 8″. ( Like I said these drop cloths are heavy and they will need the support.)

In order to prevent the rings from sliding off the end I used IKEA rod ends, also known as finials. (They were all out of the matching black, so gray will have to do.)

Hang Them Up!

I simply hung up the rods and can easily pull them out when in use, and tuck them away when not needed.

When in use, I have a tarp that I lay down on the floor. It is nothing fancy, but it is cheap and it does the trick.

Ventilation

As I states before, this is just a broad stroke tutorial on a concept that could easily be adapted to any space. My shop has and industrial fan that is directly above my paint booth. I simply turn it on and it sucks the paint fumes up and out. (Yes, my ceiling is exposed and there will be some paint that will accumulate over time.) This is not a sterile environment, but it will mitigate the amount of over spray that ends up all over my shop during a paint project.

Another suggestion would be to strategically situate your paint booth in front of a window and cut a hole in the drop cloth to accommodate the window and place a box fan with a air filter in the window. ( Again, not a professional setup but it definitely DIY level boujie spray booth.)

Sources:

• Utility Hooks: Amazon 
• Curtain Rods:  IKEA
• Curtain Ring Clips :  Amazon
• Drop Cloths (x4):  Amazon
• Tarp:   The Home Depot

The post DIY Paint Booth appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

“When the kids are in school full-time.” (The youngest  is currently finishing up second grade)

“When my workshop is complete.” (Completed a year ago, and for real when is a shop ever “finished”.  Amiright?!)

“When I have more time.” (Ha, if I was waiting for more time, I picked the wrong career.)

The list could go on and on and entail such menial things like, “washing my hair sounds like a lot of work”.  Honestly,  any excuse was better and easier than just diving in.

So, what changed?

Well about 3 years ago I met a friend.  Not just any friend.  One of those life longer, ride-or-die types. She is one of those friends who is willing to fly halfway across the country (only accepting a box of Cheerios as payment)  and hold your hand as she walks you through your own personal hell. In my case, YouTube.

If you don’t already know Jenn she has worked for some BIG deal names. Like …  I don’t know “This Old House”?!  She is actually so great at what she does, that  they asked her to head up a new branch of “This Old House” geared toward new home owners.  If you aren’t already tuned into “House One” you should be. If that isn’t enough, she also runs her own site “Build Basic” that is chocked full of creative content.  So make sure you head over to her site to see tons of fun new ideas INCLUDING plans for  today’s project.

We brainstormed some fun ideas, and came up with a very fitting project.  A project that would ultimately aid me in this new YouTube endeavor. We designed a new camera mount that would hang from the trusses in my shop.  By designing it this way, I would be able to move the mount/camera quickly, and easily to my different work stations. We also constructed it so that we could attach a monitor that would allow a live preview of what I was working on.   While we were at it, we also came up with a simple solution that would up my lighting game! So this project is really a “two birds with one stone” scenario. Not only are we sharing this project with you, but I also took the plunge into video content!

BUILD PLANS HERE

Without further ado.  Our first video produced specifically  for YouTube.

<iframe width=”560″ height=”315″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/NhpPFSGoNyg” frameborder=”0″ allow=”accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture” allowfullscreen></iframe>

If you wouldn’t mind taking a moment to subscribe to the new channel I would forever appreciate it!

Subscribe Here 

                                                                                                                                                                                        Take Luck,

                                                                                     Corey

The post DIY Ceiling Camera Mount appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I have been mentally  planning this workbench assembly table for years! I knew I wanted a larger workstation that could also serve as an out feed table as well.   Every once in a while I would have a weird cut and I would have to wait for my husband to get home so that he could catch the board as I fed it through.   Too many times I have had to put a project on hold to wait for my husband to roll in.  Not any longer!  I am happy to report that I can now feasibly cut a full sheet of plywood without needing a second person present!

Because I was making this bigger, I might as well make it BETTER!  I teamed up with the great folks at Rockler to really trick this bad boy out!  It is complete with clamp tracks, great storage, and castors that move this beast around like a dream!

As always I used my go-to , Purebond Plywood.  It is a beautiful top quality plywood that is responsibly harvested from sustainable sources, it is also formaldehyde-free and made with soy-based adhesives.  You can learn more about the Purebond difference here.

*

Tools Suggested: 

• Miter Saw
• Drill
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Table Saw (or a track saw)
• Router (for optional tracks)
• Sander
• Rockler Drawer Slide Jig 

Supplies Used:

• (x 5) 3/4″ Purebond Plywood
• (x 1) 1/2″ MDF 4×8 sheet
• (x 4) 2″x 3″ Boards
• (x 7)   1″x 2″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
• Wood Glue
• 1 1/4 ” Pocket Hole Screws
• 3″ Wood Screws
• 3″ Rockler Castors
• 20″ Drawer Glides

T-Track Top (Optional but absolutely suggested!)

• 4-way Track 
• T-Track 
• T-Track Clamps 
• Short Stops
• Corner Stops 

Want to build it for yourself!?  I have build plans available here.  The overall dimensions are  84″x 46.5″x 34″

If you want to see more behind the scenes, I have the insider scoop saved to my IG stories.

*** Build Plans Here *** 

*I acknowledge that I am partnering with Rockler and Purebond.  As a sponsor I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

The post Workbench Storage Table appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Ask anyone who knows me well. I have been geeking out over this shop long before we ever started it. I always said “it is going to be the prettiest shop you have ever seen!”. Well I challenged myself and I was definitely accepting that challenge.   I set out to combine 3 things I adore in life,  organization, woodworking, and making things beautiful and functional.

In order to meet all those parameters I  teamed up with my good friends at Rockler.  They were able to help me bring my vision to life. Even if you have never built a cabinet in your life, they have all sorts of  jigs and goodies that will  make the process painless! So without further ado,  let me show you what Rockler, and I have created!

If you are a bit hesitant to start making cabinets,  consider this. It’s just a box! Seriously, the carcass of most cabinets is just a box. That’s it.   It’s often the doors, hardware, and hinges that make potential DIYer’s clam up.  That’s were Rockler can help! 

When organizing, and building cabinets I love to have a ton of drawer space! Again,  drawers are just more boxes… boxes with glides.
 I am not going to lie, drawer glides use to terrify me. I could spend an hour measuring and leveling and  my drawer would still sit all wonky.  That is where jigs can save you hours,  if not days of frustration.  It will hold your glides perfectly distanced, and level so you can install them. ( I used these  glides (and love them) and you can get the “Drawer Slide Jig” here. 

Alright, so that eliminates drawers. What’s next? Drawer front?  Again, nothing to get bent out of shape over. In my case I used a piece of plywood and then banded the edges.  Then with the use of these awesome “Drawer Front Clamps”, I installed them  using screws from the interior of the drawer.
Next up, the dreaded hinge. ( I’m serious, I should not openly admit this but I use to absolutely SUCK at installing hinges.  My doors sat all sorts of wonky, and I was constantly shimming and filling holes like it was going out of  style.) After a few years I finally  started to get the knack of it, but there is an easier way to install them. You guessed it jigs.

I have used a couple of different jigs for drilling the cupholds. (Kreg being another great one!) But, Rockler has something that is amazing for when you are doing a series of cabinets. (Rockler Concealed Hinge Jig) This jig allows you to set both cuphold measurements and lock them in place so you can repeat drill all of the holes for all the cabinet doors! No measuring and marking each cuphold individually.  Brilliant!

Once all the cupholds are drilled you simply transfer the center measurement for your door and mark them on the interior of your cabinets.  Normally for this step you are required to make exact measurements to ensure everything lines up… Well  that’s were another jig can help!

Okay, see that wasn’t so hard!?  Let the jigs do all the thinking. Once you have the basics of cabinet making down, you can start evolving the process.  You can start to customize cabinets to fit not only  your sizes but also your needs, and that is exactly what I did!  Check out some of the cool things you can do once you dive into the world of cabinets!

Check out this cabinet I built specifically for my router table! Again, if  you really think about it , it is just boxes and drawer glides!  I just customized the drawers to hold a router table.

What about this beauty ?Again,  it is just a box that I added “Heavy-Duty Drawer Glides” and teamed them up with some awesome “Locking Castors” and an added a platform.  This unit will serve as a miter station, and will house my planer. It will easily  keep it stowed,  but still be  easily accessible for use, plus OF course it is super stable thanks to the glides and the locking castors.

The last thing I had to figure out was the counter top.  I had already used a PureBond plywood method on my other workstations and it worked great. So why mess with a good thing?  The one tricky part was making a counter top that was longer than 8′.  So I simply spliced it together.   I then “banded” the edges with premium pine 1×2″ boards. This would give it the appearance of a heftier top,  and would also give it some rigidity. 

Once those were in place it was looking gorgeous!  For any of you wondering.  I used approximately  12 sheets of Purebond plywood.  They have excellent cabinet grade 3/4″ plywood in Birch that is a dream to work with. It is stain-able, which is another reason I selected it for the counter stops.

While these cabinets were absolutely  gorgeous in their raw wood state, I had a vision, and I couldn’t let it go. Instead I decided to paint the bases and stain the top! (Bases: “Cityscape” by Sherwin Williams/ Countertop: “Golden Oak” by Minwax) 

Oh ,oh, oh!  I almost forgot!  I also built a really  small drawer directly below my miter saw to house all my safety gear… but it also manages my dust collection system!  I have a dust collection system that runs behind all my cabinets and hooks up to various tools. Well, instead of walking all the way to the other side of the shop to turn the dust collection off and on,  I simply  hooked it up to a christmas light remote! Simple,  but brilliant, right !?

 Ok,  so  I have shown you  some of my favorite customized features,  but I didn’t just stop there.  Even the smallest detail had my full attention. Check out the hardware !  I was able to find both the pulls and knobs from Hobby Lobby. Ok,  just a few more,  just because it is so dang pretty!

Well  what do you think?  I don’t know about you,  but I truly feel  like it is the prettiest shop ever!

If you love this build you might be interested in some of the other shop organization projects I have created…  check it out.

Alright,  well that’s a wrap,  but stay tuned because I have big plans!  Next up?  Assembly table/outfeed table and it is going to be phenomenal!

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post My Dream Workshop Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

First things first, I  needed a workspace that would not only accommodate my new “x-carve”,  but  I also wanted to start to get acquainted with my new tool.  What better way to do that then to build it a kick *ss shrine that would hold all of it’s gadgets, and  let me start learning how to use it!?  So today,  I am showing you how I pulled together a awesome Inventables workstation out of OLD CABINETS!!!

Let’s dive in, shall we?  I started with these two old cabinets I inherited from a old school renovation.

 I needed to create enough space so that the X-Carve would have plenty of space,  so I put the two cabinets back to back.  That created enough width,  but I still needed length… so  I went into my OLD garage and pulled out a cabinet I had made for my previous shop.  It would be perfect for the end cap of the “cart” I was making, plus it had plenty of storage for all the accessories  you can purchase for your X-Carve!

(In case you were wondering, yes, I did need to modify the depth of one of the cabinets in order for the two  teal color cabinets to meet the same width as the end cap cabinet. See image below.) 

Next, I wanted this  X-Carve workstation to be mobile. So with some help I flipped this thing over and added some beefy castors.

Next up counter top!  If you are interested in how I make my counter tops I go into more detail on that here. Now is the fun part!  Really  tricking it out with features specific for the X-Carve. With the X-Carve  you can cut into sheets of plywood, MDF. acrylic, metal, plastic, corian…  you get the picture. (Want to see what else it can cut? Click here!)  It can cut a TON of different materials, so I decided to build a shelf that would house all my specialty materials!  I just made sure to build my counter top was large enough that is would over hang on one side giving me enough space to mount my materials shelf.  Next  up?   The X-Carve is controlled by computer, so NATURALLY  my X-Carve table NEEDED a place that would house my computer… So I took out one of the drawers……AND modified it to fit my computer!  I just gave it a flat surface that I could easily access, and beefed up it’s drawer glides.

Another feature the X-Carve has is a dust collection arm!  You just hook it up to a shop vac and you are good to go!  So NATURALLY I wanted to have my shop vac built into my table… naturally. So I took out some shelving, drilled some holes for access and airflow and this puppy was ready! 

That  just about does it for the logistics… now for the fun part!  Like I said, this was my first attempt at using the X-Carve,  I wanted to start simple,  because lets face it, I had no clue what I was doing!  So I hopped on EASEL. Easel is a FREE program you can use to easily design just about anything you can imagine! Seriously,  head on over and see what you can design in just a few minutes of playing around.  For my first project I appropriately decided to finish up my Inventables X-Carve table with something straight up pretty!

For the finishing touch I added this beauty! It was amazing how simple it was to design and I was blown away at the precision and detail this machine can produce!  I was able to create the crowning jewel of this table in a little over an hour… of the machine doing the work for me! NICE.  

So without any further ado, I give you the beginning of a beautiful relationship  between my X-Carve and I!!!

My “Inventables” workshop table. 

Doesn’t that sign  just complete this project!??! I simply stained it, and mounted it with some black hardware and this sign steals the show!  I can’t wait to start and use this thing EVERYWHERE!  Until then,  check out the rest of this beauty.

 Plenty of storage for accessories, and projects, and you can see the far end where I made the material storage. I simply added a strap of thick elastic and attached it with screws and washers. Its easy to get materials out, but yet they won’t fall out.  win/win

Now, remember how this island was created by putting two cabinets back to back?  There is still plenty of storage on the other side too! Booyah! Well,  there you have it folks.  I have a new tool,  which always makes me happy,  an organized space to use it.. and my brain is straight up swimming with fun new ways to use this things, so stay tuned! You aren’t going to want to miss it!

Take Luck,

 Corey

The post Workshop Table for X-Carve (Using OLD cabinets!) appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all!  As most of you know the last 8 months my husband and I have been building my workshop.  Now that the entire structure is complete (You can see the gorgeous interior here.)  I have been working around trying to get this shop up and running smoothly.

So here is the deal. I have accumulated a lot of mismatched cabinets over the years.  They all went into my previous work spaces, and they were great at keeping me close to something resembling organized.  However, now that I have a lot more workshop, I have decided to build a whole wall of custom cabinets. (Stay tuned for those!) Regardless, I felt like a complete monster tossing all my old cabinets, so I decided to do what I do best. UPCYCLE!  Today I am happy to  join forces with the great team at DAP and I am going to you  show how I used two thrift store cabinets and turn it into a highly functional, (not to mention straight up PRETTY) workshop assembly table.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Humble Beginnings

Like I said, it all started with two $15 cabinets that I purchased a few years ago at a local Habitat for Humanity store front.  I bought these because they had pull out storage (not visible in the image below) and they were cheap and in decent shape. I just needed to hide all the clutter and these fit the bill.

So instead of using them as traditional wall cabinets, I thought a little outside the box.  I instead attached them together, to create an island of sorts.  I just put them side by side and using  screws secured them to each other.     The cabinets by themselves will be a lot of great storage, but I wanted to kick it up a notch.   From the beginning I was planning on using this as a painting/finishing station. So instead of just slapping on a piece of paneling to hide the ugly back of the cabinets, I built a quick shelf that would serve as the backside of the cabinet. WHHHATTT?  Mind blown right?

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Adding Shelves

Like,  I said I still needed to add a piece of paneling to the backside of the cabinets, to instead I just glued it using DAP Wood Glue, and simply applied it to the back of the newly constructed shelves and lay paneling on top. I tack mine in place with a finish nailer to hold it while the glue cures.  ( I painted my shelves in advance so I wouldn’t have to paint in all the small corners.) Okay,  now we are going to beef this baby up! I wanted this to be on castors so that  I could wheel it around my shop.  In order to do that I needed a really  solid base. I made a basic frame out of 2×3 boards.  This will also serve as a lip/pedestal for the shelf to sit on.  So that the shelves and cabinets are sitting back to back with good support.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – It’s All About That Base

Once the base was completed I attached it to the underside of my cabinets.  It is at this point I put my cabinets and the newly  made shelves together.  I screwed  the 2×3 base to the bottom of the cabinets, as well as the new shelves. Once it was all secured, I then screwed the shelf to the cabinet. From the way my cabinets are made, it seemed like it needed base support in order to properly work.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – The Castors

Next up castors!  I purchased mine at Home Depot.  I used two swivel and two swivel with a locking option. I put the locking castors in opposite corners so that I could keep the island still if needed,  but still mobile.   Alright, now here comes my artistic side.  I wanted this thing to be pretty and functional,  so I needed to make this unit look like ONE unit,  not just a hodge podge of discarded items.  That is where all my DAP products come into play!  It is essentially my base layer of makeup. And BOY did these cabinets need it.  I started by filling all the screw holes from their previous installation.  For this I found that DAP Plastic Wood worked best. Once dried, I went over it with a sander, and the sides were a nice clean canvas for my paint. 

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Paint The Doors

The last thing that needed to be prepped for paint was the doors. I had found some AWESOME hardware I wanted to use, and they did not jive with the current hole positions.  So, easy fix.  I grabbed my Plastic Wood, filled the holes ! After it dried, I smoothed it out with a sander. VOILA!  What holes? While I had the sander out, I made sure to give all my cabinets a good sanding.  When painting laminate you want to make sure all the surfaces are sanded enough to create a dull finish.  The small scuffs will allow the paint to properly adhere. 

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Painting W/ Primers

There is a lot of controversy over paint w/primers vs.  priming then painting. I like to live on the wild side, so I used Sherwin Williams paint with primer  and have zero complaints!  If you are wondering I used “Cityscape”,  I just happened to have  a few gallons left from when I painted our home’s exterior.  (You can read all about it here.)  Once the base was painted I was read to move onto the counter top. Before I could add a counter top I needed to build up the top 3/4″. Reason being… I wanted to add a banding around the edge of my  counter slab and if I did not build it up, my cabinet doors would have not been able to open.  I digress, I built up the top using 1×2 boards.  These will support my  plywood counter.

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – The Countertop

In order to make a beautiful counter top I used a piece of PUREBOND  3/4″ plywood.  They are beautiful pieces that a stain quality and would be a gorgeous feature to my island.  As I stated before I wanted to add a band/edging to my counter, so on the underside I used a Kreg Pocket jig and drilled out pocket holes around the perimeter. Next up?  The edging. I simply measured the edges and cut to fit and used a basic butt joint.  Before attaching a applied a small amount of wood glue to ensure a snug fit. Now…  before I flip this sucker over and install, I started to get creative. I wanted to add a rool of paper to the under side of my  workstation that I could use much like a table at a Dr’s office. I wanted to be able to pull up a new sheet when I was working with paint and stain, and then rip it off when I was finished. SO, I  needed a way to hand said roll of paper. Well,  I went to my drawer of random hardware and THIS is the Macgyver solution  I came up with, carabiners, screws and multiple washers. I there a better way to do this ? Probably, but this is what I had on hand and it worked for me! 

Alright,  now I was ready to flip it over and secure it in place… to do that I fastened it from the inside of the cabinets.  (You guys, it took me  an extra three minutes to try and figure out how to word that without making it sound dirty.) #winning 

Workshop Paint Assembly Table – Paper Holder

Alright we are in the HOME STRETCH ! Last thing it needed was to somehow create a way to feed the paper  up and  hold the paper in place. In order to do that I used  two (one for each end)  1×2″ boards,  cut to the width of the counter. I was going to need to attach them via screw at the very edge of the board, so I pre-drilled and countersank  each end. Then using a small washer as a spacer I  drove the screw through the end cap board and through the washer and into the actual counter top edge.  This washer would give me  the gap I needed to feed my paper through.  I did this on BOTH ends.  The result?  Nothing short of magical! I clean work space!  Last thing I needed to do was ad my roll of paper.  So instead of building my entire table to fit my paper roll,  I simply cut my paper to fit my table.  #geniusNow just install that sucker! I then fed the paper back down  the other end. Nice crisp, clean work space.  

 There you have it!  Isn’t she a BEAUT !? 

Look at how much it can store! It just makes my heart happy.   There is that hardware I was telling you about. How perfect are they?!Plus, PLENTY of easily accessible storage. I call that a win!   That about wraps this build up!  Thanks for following along.

 If you want to see even more builds and behind the scenes follow me here:

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The post Workshop Paint/Assembly Table appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

It is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)

We planned this beauty so that it would look like a detached garage, and wouldn’t take away from our home. We drew it up so that it would match the architecture of our home and  I think we nailed it!

The INSIDE is the part I am most excited to show you though. I had big plans and dreams for this space. I not only wanted it to be a highly functional work space, I wanted it to have the aesthetics of  a studio. I had my work cut out for me and it included preparing long before we started building.

I got the crazy idea of leaving the trusses exposed… but not only did I want them exposed, I wanted them stained! (Of course I did.) So, before we flew our trusses, I stained them while they were accessible from the ground.

Before I started staining I tried out a few different color options. I ultimately decided on “Golden Oak” by Minwax.
I honestly  thought that is was going to take an eternity, but it was actually quite painless.  I simply loaded up my HomeRight Super Finish Max Extra and started spraying! My husband and I had a system down pat after the first few. I would spray and he would run a rag over them to remove any excess stain. We  would then stand them up against a tree. We had them all done in about 2 hrs. Not too shabby, when  I was expecting this to be a full weekend project.  Once all the trusses were stained it was time to paint the sheathing. That’s right!  I wanted the boards behind the stained trusses to be white. I wanted to achieve a nice contrast, also the white boards would help lighten the shop.   So what’s a girl to do ?

Let me just say, I think the neighbors thought we were crazy. But my husband and I laid out 52 sheets of OSB in the side yard… It kept reminding me of the larger than life playing cards from Alice in Wonderland… RIGHT!??! I so badly wanted to paint come clubs on a few, but alas  I was strong and resisted.  I digress… I then pulled out my trusty HomeRight Power-Flo Pro. (You may recall we used this to paint the exterior of our home earlier this year.) 

I rigged it to my dolley so that I could easily  move the sprayer and the 5 gallon bucked of paint with it. (I am smart like that.) It took no time at all!  I ended up doing a primer coat, and then flat top coat. ( I needed it to dry FAST so that I could re-stack it once I was done.) 

Seriously, this thing made short order of the sheets.

Seeing the first  few sheets go up made me giddy!  That contrast is the stuff dreams are made of…well my dreams anyways.

 Doesn’t that repetition  just make your heart skip a beat ?! 

Ok, now that the ceiling was covered, it was time to tackle the interior. Again, I hooked up my trusty Power-Flo Pro and got busy!   I first had to “prime” the cinder block first using something called “block filler”.  It does just what it claims, it fills all the pores on the block making it easier to top coat. My husband and I have team work down to an art when it comes to painting with this thing.  We had it done in a few hours and top coated the next day! So, without further ado. I give you  my  workshop!!!!Isn’t it gorgeous!?!Would you believe  I made all the lights out of industrial pipe and lights I got in the clearance section at Home Depot? Well believe it,because I totally did. It was exactly the look I was trying to achieve, and it didn’t take half as long as I had anticipated!  Having the right tools for the job makes life a hell of a lot easier! I still have plans to put down a floor coating that will deepen and enhance the look of the concrete, but for now, I am going to sit back and enjoy this view.  Thanks so much for reading!

Take Luck,

 Corey

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