I have been on the hunt for an affordable over the garage trellis option. After searching high and low I ultimately decided a budget friendly garage trellis did not exist. Instead of wasting more time searching I put on my thinking cap and designed and built my own affordable and aesthetically pleasing over the garage trellis!

Cut Boards for Corbels

Cut all necessary boards. (Determined by the desired number of corbel/brackets.) In my case I utilized a total of three brackets to span over a 2-car garage entry.  I used to “Large” corbels for the sides, and one “Small” corbel as a center support. 

Drill Holes

I found that it was very helpful using a speed square accurately mark the hole placement.  Word to the wise, mark the placement for all the corbels at the same time.  This will ensure that the holes will all line up when ultimately run the poles through the corbels. 

*Something to consider:  Before drilling determine the best size bit for your rods.  I used inexpensive IKEA curtain rods.  These rods worked best when I used a 7/8” paddle bit to dill out the hole. 

 I opted to use a drill press; this required a lot of resituating the depth of the drill as I drilled through the board.  While it required a little work, I highly recommend using a drill press. 

If using a drill press is not possible, a drill is still an option. It will just require a very level and steady hand. 

Another Option:  Drilling straight holes through the entirety of the 5.5” board is definitely the trickiest part of this build, there are a few ways to adjust the skill level.  Using a 2×4” board as opposed to a 2×6” board will make the step easier.  It will change the overall aesthetics, but it is an option. 

Cut Chamfered Edge on Corbel Board (Optional)

 I opted to add a chamfered edge to the ends of my boards.  This is not a necessary step, I simply wanted to jazz up my corbels. You can achieve this look. By either using a router or a table saw. 

In order to create a chamfer edge, I set my table saw blade on a 45 degree angle. In order to prevent cutting my rip fence I used clamps to secure a scrap board to the fence. 

Sand and Seal Corbel Boards

Before assembling I sanded all my boards and then treated them with and exterior stain and sealer. 

I used Olympic Elite exterior Stain and Sealant in the color “American Chesnut” I used this same stain when I created my “Vertical Planter” and I loved it so I used it again.

Construct Corbels

Using 4” exterior use screws secure the horizontal board to the (soon to be wall mounted) vertical board.  Reference the PDF Plan(s) to see the designated measurements. 

Secure Corbels to Wall

 In my case I will be attaching my trellis brackets to our stucco/block home.  Seeing as I will be drilling into concrete, I’ll need to take a few extra steps. In order to secure it into masonry I will need to use a sleeve anchor.  They are basically a mollie for concrete. I am using a 4” long by 1/2” diameter sleeve anchor. 

To use these anchors, I need to drill a ½” hole to accommodate the sleeve. I drilled a hole at both the top and the bottom center of my brackets. 

BEFORE YOU GET DRILL HAPPY…  take the time to check, double-check, and triple-check the placement of the corbels.  They will need to be perfectly level in order to accommodate the poles that will run through them.  I began by installing my center bracket first and then took careful measurements to figure out the positions of the side corbels. 

Once the holes were drilled in the bracket, I positioned the bracket in the desired location.  While holding the bracket in place I used the holes pre-drilled as a template for drilling holes in the masonry. 

Drilling holes in masonry is not as scary as it sounds, so long as you use the right tools. I suggest a ½” masonry bit and a “hammer drill”.  (Pictured below is a “Rotary Hammer Drill”.) 

 I drilled a hole approximately 3” deep into the masonry. This measurement considers the length of the anchor and the depth of the bracket board

After hole is drilled into masonry, insert the anchor sleeve through the wooden bracket and into the hole drilled in the masonry.  It should be a snug fit but should slide in without the use of tools. (If necessary. use a rubber mallet to tap into place.)

Once the anchor is in place use a wrench to tighten the anchor.  The anchor will expand as you tighten the bolt ensuring that the bracket is securely attached to the wall.   

    I knew I wanted the hardware to all be black, however I also knew that painting them before tightening the bolts would scratch up the paint job. Instead, I installed all the hardware and then cut a 1” hole in a scrap piece of paneling and used it to mask off the rest of the corbel and expose the unpainted nut. I used a satin black paint and primer and it worked like a charm. 

Almost done!  In order to complete the over the garage trellis we needed to connect our  corbels. To do this I used inexpensive  curtain rods from Ikea.  I found that they worked excellent and the fact that the could extend made it a great option.  

Another great option would be using ½” electrical conduit.  I liked using the curtain rods because they came with everything I needed to add finials (end caps),  but fear not I have a tutorial  how-to add finials to electrical conduit curtain rod here. 

 Once all the rods are in place, add finials (if desired) and add a vining variety plant. I opted for Bougainvillea that I purchased a few month prior to building my over the garage trellis.   In order to help it reach the new corbels I did build a small trellis that would bridge distance between the corbels and the ground. 

 That just about wraps up yet another homerun DIY project.  I had looked into over the garage trellis options for years and never found anything affordable.  I’d like to think that I knocked this inexpensive DIY out of the park. 

 Thanks for following along. 

Take Luck, 

Corey

Make it easy to organize your projects by Pinning it !

The post Add Character by Adding a Gorgeous DIY Garage Trellis appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Our back patio was a little lack-luster and needed some new life. It’s not a huge patio so whatever I added needed to have a small footprint and still pack a punch. Thus the plans for the Vertical Wall Planter were born. Enjoy!

Step 1. Prep Materials

Before I get too far into the building process I prefer to prep all of my boards in advance. Using a miter saw I cut all the boards to proper length and then use an orbital sander to achieve a smooth finish.

Using a hacksaw or saw and blade intended for metal use cut ¾” metal conduit. If desired apply a lacquer based paint intended for metal.

Step 2. Build Large Crate 

Using a pocket hole jig drill pocket holes into both ends of the Crate Sides.

Using the pocket screws secure the Crate Sides to the (Crate Front and Back).  Do this for both sides, creating a rectangle. Repeat this process until (x3) rectangular structures are assembled. Repeat this process three times in order to create three Large Crates.

Step 3. Build Planter Boxes

Using a pocket hole jig drill pocket holes along the edge of the (Planter Sides). Using these holes secure the (Planter Sides) to the (Planter Front).

Using Pocket holes attach the (Planter Back) to both (Planter Sides) creating a rectangle.

Using pocket holes fasten the (Bottom Slats) to the interior base of the newly constructed (Planter Box).  

Step 4. Build Planter Ledges 

We are down to the easy stuff now folks, stick with me!  For the next component of the build we will be incorporating some small ledges. 

The (Ledges) consist of only three boards, the Shelf, the Ledge, and the Back Support. Using stainless steel pocket holes attach the Back Support to the top back of the Shelf, and secure the Ledge to the front of the Shelf for added support. Repeat this process to create a total of three Planter Ledges.

Step 5. Planter Ring Mounts

Let’s add some character to this beast!  I used six 6in.Vigoro Planter Rings for this design and I LOVE them.  The contrast of the matte black against the Olympic Elite “American Chestnut” makes my heart skip a beat!

The Planter Ring Mounts, are fairly simple component.  To create the Planter Ring Mount simply drill pocket holes along the back sides of the board (later used for installation) and screw the rings to the front of the Planter Ring Mount board.

Step 6. Posts

We are now ready to prep our Posts for the wall planter install. Before we begin installing take a few extra minutes to mark the back of the (x4) Posts with the designated dimensions for Crate, Planter, Ledge, Ring Mounts, and Rods. 

One last step before I could assemble this beast.  I needed to add holes to house the electrical conduit Bars. Using a drill, and a forstner bit I drilled 1” deep coordinating holes that would hold the Rods in place.  

Step 7. Assembly

When assembling start with one side of the structure and work your way across. I recommend using a good wood glue when assembling, in addition to the recommended fasteners.

FIRST place your Rods(conduit) into place. After the rods are in positioned in the pre-drilled holes install the “Small Planter Box” (Step 3) the“Shelf” (Step 4) and the “Planter Ring Mounts” (Step 5). 

Once the first section is installed, move onto the second section repeating the above process.

Alright, this may come as a shock, but you will need to repeat this process yet again for the last and final section of the planter.

Once all of the Bars, Planter Boxes, Ledges, and Ring Mounts as installed you flip the entire unit over fasten the Large Crates to the base the Posts using 2” exterior screws.

Step 8. Planter Prep

This wall planter project was not designed to be a free-standing piece. It is intended to be secured to a wall for further stability.  I would suggest using a minimum of 5 anchor points.  

I used the “Plant Ring Mounts” and the interior of the “Large Crates” at the base as my anchor points using 2 ½ inch, ¼” concrete screw anchors or something comparable.  The fasteners necessary will differ based on your wall material stucco, brick, stud etc. This project was not designed to be a free-standing piece. It is intended to be secured to a wall for further stability.  I would suggest using a minimum of 5 anchor points.

The post Wall Planter appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

(Home Depot’s Example Wooden Doormat)

Home Depot Offers Workshops!

• The Home Depot offers Workshops at all of their locations for do-it-yourselfers of all ages and experience levels. If you are interested in learning more, there is more info HERE.
• There are three types of Workshops offered – Do-It Yourself (DIY), Do-It-Herself (DIH) and Kids.
• Customers can learn how to build décor projects, how to make easy home repairs and how to operate tools through demonstrations and step-by-step instructions.
• Visit Home Depot to register and learn more.

Wooden Doormat

Supplies Used:

• (4) 1″x 2″ boards
• (1) 1″x 4″ board
• Sisal Rope
• Stain (Consider weatherproofing if applicable)
• Wood Glue
• 2″ Nails

Tools Suggested:

• Miter Saw
• Drill
• 5/16″ Drill Bit
• Nail Gun
• Tape Measure
• Safety Glasses

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1.

 Cut List:

1″x 2″

• (2) @ 21″
• (10) @ 29″
• (2) @ 19 1/2″

1″x 4″

• (1) @ 29″

Once all boards are cut , sand smooth.

 Step 2. Drill holes

Line up (8) of the 29″ 1″x  2″ boards as well as the 29″, 1″x 4″ board.  Measure 7 1/2″ inches from each end and mark. Using a square you can ensure that they will all be uniform.

Once holes are drilled, then sand down any tear out from drilling.

Step 3. Stain

I would highly  suggest staining BEFORE assembling.  Honestly trying to stain around the rope and down in between the slats sounds like a pain in the… bum, or if  you are glutton for punishment, be my guest.

Like I said  before, if this is going to be sitting out during the monsoon season in Florida, I would suggest taking extra precautions to treat your wood. (Like put it in a Ziploc bag  Makes sense right ?  I live in Florida where we have a lot of sun and  heat… naturally.  When selecting a stain I opted for a weatherproofing stain.  I used Behr Weatherproofing Stain in “Coffee”.

Step 4. String em’ up  Together

Next up,  sisal rope!  I used 1/4″ Sisal Rope. When stringing/knotting your rope, one thing to keep in mind is that the gaps between the boards needs to be 1/2″.  I used spacers to make sure I was making my knots tight/small enough.

Use the diagram below for order, and spacing.  Leave about 3/4″ rope cut off from the first and last board.  (See image in  Step 5. for reference)

Step 5. Top and Bottom

Using the remaining (4) 29″ boards  we will make the top and bottom boards that will help frame out the door mat. Following the diagram below secure the boards together. (You will make two of these).  First glue them together, and for a little extra insurance reinforce with 2″ nails.

REMEMBER the board with the hole through it will be sitting with the 2″ side up.  (see Diagram)

In order to hide the remaining sisal rope, I added a small amount of wood glue inside of the hole drilled into the 1″x 2″ board. Simply insert the leftover sisal rope into the drilled hole with the adhesive. The adhesive will just be a little extra insurance that the rope will not slip out.

Step 6.  Attach Sides

Next I added a small amount of wood glue to the ends of all the boards.   I then attached the 21″,  1″x 2″ boards to both ends. After  making sure all of the spacing was correct, I then used a nailer and 2″ nails to reinforce .

Step 7. Back Supports

Lastly, I added supports to the back side. I wanted this to add strength to the unit, but also really make the knots stand out!  I added a small amount of wood glue to the back of the slats, and then reinforced with 1 1/4″ nails.

There you have it folks,  a new twist on an old favorite! For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also, follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

Want to see more awesome ideas !? Check out what these other creative bloggers did with their doormats!

Take Luck,

 Corey

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The Batchelor Way

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Creatively Living

The post Wooden Doormat appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

 It is CHEAP, easy to make,  dries quickly, sand falls right off, stores compactly,  it doesn’t  blow away, and doesn’t slowly  end up in a small shriveled pile when in use!  It is perfect!

 Just pull it out, stake it down, enjoy,  shake it out, fold it up and go! So easy.

Supplies used:

• Twin size flat sheet
• Shoelaces
• 4 tent stakes
• Sewing machine (or it can be done by hand, it will just take a little more time.)
  

Begin by cutting (4) 12″ sections of  shoe lace.   Then tie knots in the 12″ sections of shoelaces.    Then fold the corners of the sheet over the loop of shoelace.   Pin the sheet in place and then sew!  Make sure you really reinforce the stitches!  That is pretty much it!   Told you it was easy!

 It is ready for it’s debut.  Just bring along 4 tent stakes!

( Of course, make sure you drive the stakes in completely, don’t want to stub you toe on those!)

 There you have it, now you can sit back and relax.

The post The BEST Beach Blanket ever! appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

 One of lasts summers projects was to make the back  patio a little more appealing.  It was a lot of little projects that seemed to drag on forever.  I did finally finish it all up, but it was a little late in the season for it to be relevant for most readers. So here it is,  my back patio makeover in all of it’s 9×13′ glory.  Enjoy.

I started with the floor, the floor the ceiling and the walls were all the same color. It felt like a cave.  It was too dark of a color for the ceiling, but too light for the floor.  The floor always looked dirty.  So it got a little makeover.  You can read more about the process here!
I loved the difference the floor made, so I decided the ceiling needed some help as well.

You can read more about  how I significantly  brightened the room here. It is amazing what a little paint can do.

While I loved the new floor, my kids liked to play out on the patio, and I wanted them to have a little bit of a softer surface to play on. So I used a cheap rug  and some paint and  turned it into this!  You can read more about how I did it here.

For the tables,  I used two different tables, one that I found at a thrift store, the other, on the side of the road.  With a little bit of elbow grease I was able to make them look as if they went together.

  You can read all about the process here.

For seating I used 2 chairs from my  old dining set and turned them into a bench!  You can read all about the process here.

 For wall decor  I  used a mirror that I picked up from “ReStore for $2.00.  With a little bit of work I was able to make it fit the theme.  You  learn how to make your own here.

As a small finishing touch I added a couple of simple coasters, that are super  simple and cheap  to make,  you can read more about them here.

 The directors chair was a thrift store find. It was all a matter of repainting, and removing the fabric,  using it as a pattern to create a  new one.  

 I absolutely  love the way it turned out.  You may have noticed I am not great at using color in my house.  BUT  the back porch was different. I was able to get over the anxiety of bright colors and went for it!   I love it.

The post Complete Patio Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I was stubborn and thought surely I can fit in  some seating…  Yeah, that was a bust.  As a result I ended up with a lot of scrap 1×3’s.  Well,  ‘When life gives you lemons… stick em’ down your shirt and make your boobs look bigger.”  or…   take the scrap and build it into these awesome  planters! 

If you want to learn more about the floor transformation, you can see how I did it here:   Patio Floor Makeover

Materials Used:

• 1×3″ s
• 1×2″
• Heavy Duty Landscaping Material
• Exterior Use Stain
• 1 1/4″  Wood Screws
•  Weather resistant Wood Glue

Tools Suggested:

•  Miter Saw
• Drill
• 1/8″  Drill Bit
• Level
• Staple Gun

Cut List: ( For ONE tiered planter)

1×3″ Boards

• 33 @  16″
• 24 @  12″
• 2   @   13″
• 2   @   24″
• 4   @   35″

1×2″Board

• 6  @    10.5″

To speed up the assembly process,  cut all boards, sand and if desired  stain all boards.  Once dry,  you can begin the assembly process.   When assembling ,  I would strongly  suggest  pre-drilling all joints for screws, to avoid the wood splitting.  If you  prefer using a nail gun,  use 2″ nails and  as an added precaution use a weatherproof wood glue.

To line the planters,  I used a heavy duty landscaping material.  I would guess you could use another form of material,  but that is what I used.

Cut 3  rectangles approximately 22″x 27″,  push  the material into the individual planter boxes. Make sure the material  covers the bottom and the interior sides of the planter. Then  use a  heavy duty stapler to staple the material  so that it stays in place .

Then fill er’ up!   Soil, plants, water, sun, you know the routine!

 Take Luck,

Corey

The post Tiered Planter Boxes appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

   One fateful day I was browsing at “Re-Store” and  all their mirrors were 75% off!  I picked up this bad boy for only $2.00!  It is huge and old-school heavy duty!  It had so much potential!  I had no clue what I was going to do with it,  but I wanted it!

  A few days later  I was staring at this really  blank,  boring wall on my patio.  I had no idea what to put there… LIGHTBULB!

Here is how I  turned my $2.00  find into a  beautiful  finishing touch on my patio.

 I wanted to beef up the sides to give the frame more visual weight.  So, I  added 1×2’s  to the edge as trim.   I then  primed and painted that sucker.

FYI : You can  get  paint samples from Home Depot for $2.97, and they are  perfect for small projects like this!

 I still wanted to added some  character to the mirror, and  I still needed to  hardware to hang it.  So I went for 2 birds with 1 stone.

See,  look how pretty  the mirror  turned out! Another plus,  the hanging hardware will ensure that the mirror stays  put,  even in the Florida  Hurricane season.

 Take Luck,

Corey

The post Nautical Mirror Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Here is the deal,  I live in Florida, and during the rainy season it obviously  rains, a lot.  After it rains, SOMEHOW  the patio floors always looks  dingy and dirty.  I have painted it several times, and each time it looks old and dirty with in a week.

Once  I had finished dabbing the paint on,  I felt like it still looked incomplete.  I wanted something to  fill in the lighter patches.

The post Patio Floor Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.