I recently gave my home office a makeover.  Scratch that.  I recently  converted my office into a streamlined home office/ homeschool room.  

 The biggest hurdle when designing my office was incorporating  enough desks to accommodate my kiddos and myself.   I really wanted a built-in unit but that dream seemed unattainable. Or was it ?   I dreamed up a crazy idea, an idea so crazy it JUST MIGHT WORK?! Spoiler alert:  It TOTALLY worked and I am going to show you how. 

Remove Hardware

  The first thing that was necessary when modifying the cabinet was removing the drawer and it’s accompanying hardware.  This can be  typically be accomplished using a phillips bit screwdriver/drill. 

Modifying Cabinet Dimensions (opt.)

 Now,  if you are a little OCD and want to take this project one step further then read on.  If you are perfectly happy with  height and depth of your cabinets go ahead and skip to the next step.

Adjust Depth

 First,  determine the desired depth of your cabinet and then you measure and mark your cabinet. I  set up a board that would serve as a guide to run my circular saw along.  (Remember, do not place your guide on the line you need to cut,  you need to consider the distance from  the edge of your saw plate to the saw blade itself.) 

 Using the guide and the marked line cut the first side of your cabinet using a circular saw.  (Always wear proper safety gear!)  Repeat this step on both side of your cabinet. 

Once both sides are cut,  you can flip the cabinet upside down in preparation to cut the bottom.  This is where it gets a little tricky.   The sides of the base block the path of the circular saw, so I needed to get a little creative. I had to use a smaller circular saw, but a jigsaw or something similar would work well too. 

 Using one one of the above mentioned tools will require cutting a straight line by hand.  I would highly recommend drawing a straight line to use as a guide.   Even if the line is a little crooked,  it will be fine, this will be completely hidden. 

Add Supports

Once all sides of the cabinet are cut down supports are necessary.    I used a 1×3 board cut to the exact interior dimension and then drilled pocket holes on both ends to secure them. 

 I added a support on the very top ledge of my cabinet and also  one at the base. I did leave the back of the cabinet open.  This is totally personal preference.  You can add paneling to the back if you prefer,  just take the added depth into account when you are creating countertops and installing to the wall etc. 

Adjust Height

 If  you would also like to alter the height of your cabinet,  that is an option.  Again, not necessary, but an option.   If you opt to do this,  just use the same method used to cut the sides of the cabinet.  When I cut mine down I only removed 1.5″.  I still wanted there to be a toe kick area, but the 1.5″  made a huge difference when it can to the height of the pull-out desk drawers for my kids. 

Build Drawer Box

  In order to create a pull out desk,  I needed to create a sturdy  drawer.    Never made a drawer ?  No worries, it is simple!

Finding Drawer Box Dimensions

How to find the dimensions for your drawer:

• Drawer Base Width= Opening drawer dimensions  –  1″(drawer glides) –  1  1/2″ (1×4″ box supports) 
• Drawer Base Depth = Cabinet Depth Dimension – 1″( back clearance) – 3/4″ (back 1×4″ box support)-  1 3/4″(front hinge clearance) 
• Side Box Supports=  “Drawer Base Depth” dimension +  3/4″ (back 1×4 box support) 
• Back Box Support =  “Drawer Base  Width” dimension 

After  all the necessary boards are cut, it’s time to assemble.   Using a pocket hole jig  drill pocket  holes  around the perimeter of the base. (Excluding the front ledge.)  Also drill pocket holes on both ends of the “back box support” board as well.

 Using  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws secure the “back box support” to the back of the base.  Follow-up  by securing the “side box supports”  to  both sides.  Again securing with  1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. 

 Look at that!  You made a box, that wasn’t so hard now was it ?  Next  thing we need to do is make it mobile!  Let’s add some drawer glides. 

Install Drawer Front

  First mark the desired location for the hinge,  taking into consideration the drawer glides that will be installed.  Once marked,  pre-drill in the allocated spots, then use the screws  that came with the hinges to install the first side of the hinge.  Repeat t his process for both hinges that will be attached the cabinet base.  (See below image as a reference.) 

 After the hinges are secured to the cabinet base I needed to attach the to my  drawer front.  

Something to consider: Keep in mind that the drawer will need to clear the doors that sit directly below it.  Test the spacing before installing the  drawer face. 

When  attaching the drawer front I found it easiest to clamp the drawer face directly to the front of the cabinet and then mark, pre-drill, and  then fasten with a  screw.  It ensured that I would have perfect placement!  Worked like a charm. 

Install Glides

Mark Glide Placement

   Before beginning the install process,  place your drawer box in the cabinet opening and mark out a  logical location fort eh glides to be installed.  ( If  the drawer glides are installed too high or too low there is a chance your box will not fit into the opening and will be stopped by the cabinet frame.) 

Something to consider:  When selecting your glides take into account the amount of weight they can hold and their length.  As  you saw earlier I shortened my cabinet and there fore shortened  my drawer.   Select a drawer glide based on the depth of your drawer box.  ( Mine is an 18″ deep drawer box, so I selected an 18″ drawer glide. 

Attach Glide to box

When installing drawer glides. I begin by removing the drawer glide rail and secure it to the box first.    This is a fairly simple process.  Place the front of the glide so that is flush with the box.  Then using a spacer screw with glide rail in place using the screws provided with your glides.  (See below image for clarification.) 

Install Glide to Cabinet

   Alright half-way  through  the tricky part.  See that’s not so bad ?   Let’s wrap this puppy up.  All we need to do now is install the second half of the glide.   The larger piece of the glide needs to be secured to the cabinet base.  

After a few learning experiences I finally have drawer glide install down to a science and this is my favorite way to install a drawer box.  

1.)  Cut and Add Spacers-   The spacers will need to be tall enough that  your  drawer box will not hit the hinges when the drawer is pulled out on the drawer glides,  but also short enough that the drawer box doesn’t hit the top of the opening. I cut mine approximately 1″ thick and 20 long. 

Place the guides under both sides of the drawer box. 

2.) After the spacers are resting on the front drawer support (under the drawer box)  clamp or  secure  the spacer to the cabinet so that the spacer (and thereby) the box are sitting perfectly level.  Repeat this process for both spacers on either side of the drawer. 

3.) After the spacer is securely attached it is time to install the drawer glide. ( As of right now the box is resting on top of the spacers with the glides already attached to the box.)  Before we can install the glide we need to make sure the front hinged drawer has enough space to close. (The hinges  I used required 1 1/4″ from the front ledge in order to close properly.)  

Once certain of  location mark  where the back of your glide should be. Use this same measurement and mark it on the other side as well.  Once marked, slowly slide the box forward so that the glide is extending. As the box and glide extend it should holes allocated for  screws. 

4.)  When the holes are visible it is time to start screwing the glide to the  cabinet interior. (Make sure the back of your glide is still  at your pre-marked measurement.   Once you have double checked go ahead and put in screws in the available hole cut outs.  Repeat this same process on both sides of the box. 

5.)   Hard part is over! Gently push the drawer forward again. ( It is still resting on the spacers,  but the glides should not be shifting because of the first set of screws that are installed.)   As you push the drawer forward it will expose more hole cut outs,  proceed to screw in the provided screws. 

6.) Repeat  step (5) until  the glides are completely extended. (The box should be completely  pulled out at this point.) 

7.) After all the screws are in, unclamp  the spacers and pull out from under the drawer. 

8.) You did it!  It should be a perfectly level install. 

 You did,  pat yourself on the back.  You converted a drawer into a desk!  If you are interested in how I created the rest of my built in unit or the countertops make sure you check out these posts.

The post How to: Convert a Drawer into Desk appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I was searching for a replacement vanity for our small powder bathroom. While there were plenty of great pre-made options, I had a vision and very specific dimensions! I needed something with a small footprint, ample storage and didn’t break the bank. Well sometimes specific requirements necessitates a custom build!

If you would like to build your own I have full build plans to help!

The post Powder Room Vanity Build Plans appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

I have been mentally  planning this workbench assembly table for years! I knew I wanted a larger workstation that could also serve as an out feed table as well.   Every once in a while I would have a weird cut and I would have to wait for my husband to get home so that he could catch the board as I fed it through.   Too many times I have had to put a project on hold to wait for my husband to roll in.  Not any longer!  I am happy to report that I can now feasibly cut a full sheet of plywood without needing a second person present!

Because I was making this bigger, I might as well make it BETTER!  I teamed up with the great folks at Rockler to really trick this bad boy out!  It is complete with clamp tracks, great storage, and castors that move this beast around like a dream!

As always I used my go-to , Purebond Plywood.  It is a beautiful top quality plywood that is responsibly harvested from sustainable sources, it is also formaldehyde-free and made with soy-based adhesives.  You can learn more about the Purebond difference here.

*

Tools Suggested: 

• Miter Saw
• Drill
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Table Saw (or a track saw)
• Router (for optional tracks)
• Sander
• Rockler Drawer Slide Jig 

Supplies Used:

• (x 5) 3/4″ Purebond Plywood
• (x 1) 1/2″ MDF 4×8 sheet
• (x 4) 2″x 3″ Boards
• (x 7)   1″x 2″ Primed Finger Board (Or Premium Pine)
• Wood Glue
• 1 1/4 ” Pocket Hole Screws
• 3″ Wood Screws
• 3″ Rockler Castors
• 20″ Drawer Glides

T-Track Top (Optional but absolutely suggested!)

• 4-way Track 
• T-Track 
• T-Track Clamps 
• Short Stops
• Corner Stops 

Want to build it for yourself!?  I have build plans available here.  The overall dimensions are  84″x 46.5″x 34″

If you want to see more behind the scenes, I have the insider scoop saved to my IG stories.

*** Build Plans Here *** 

*I acknowledge that I am partnering with Rockler and Purebond.  As a sponsor I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

The post Workbench Storage Table appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey all!  This was hands down the funnest build I have done for the blog thus far. Why?  Because I got to team up with one of my builder blogger besties to design and build it!  It all started with an innocent trip she was taking with her family to Orlando… well once we discovered we would be within driving distance of each other,  we started conspiring. It was unanimously decided we simply could not get together and not build SOMETHING! So we teamed up with the great folks at DAP to create this entry table that I desperately needed to stage the 70’s Ranch Entry! 

So here is how it’s going to work,  Katie from Addicted 2 DIY has the printable build plans available here.  You can also follow along here for more tips and tricks for this build.

So let’s get started!

DIY Trestle Entry Table – The Base    (Reference Step 1-3 here)

We started at the bottom and worked our way up! We decided to give it a beefy base so we doubled up 2 x 8 boards, and gave them chamfered edges to add character. (See tutorial step 1 for dimensions.)

Once the feet were assembled we were ready to add our stretcher (Board that spans between the two legs). We used two pocket holes on  the under side of  the stretcher and secured it to the (bottom of the top board) 2x 8.  Repeat on both sides.

DIY Trestle Entry Table – The Legs   (Reference Steps 4-6 here)

We wanted this table to have some BEEFY legs! Most lumber stores don’t carry what we needed, so we decided to DIY it! Here is what we did.

We set our table saw blade at 45 degrees, and set up the fence to maintain as much of the width as possible.  Essentially  we wanted to cut our 1×6 boards so that they all were uniform and had 45 degree angles one both long sides of the board. (See tutorial for cut dimensions.) 

Next we were ready to assemble! The assembly of these can be a little tricky, so we took a few extra precautions to make sure these legs came out perfect!

First we applied DAP Carpenter’s Wood Glue along the edges in a serpentine pattern. Next we added small dabs of Rapid Fuse  in the hills and valleys of the wood glue. Why? I’ll tell you why!  When putting something like this together it can be tricky to get it to stay in place long term while the glue sets.   The Rapid Fuse glue,  does just what it claims.  It fuses the surfaces together rapidly. For loss of better words, it is essentially a super glue for wood.  By using the Rapid Fuse with the Carpenter’s Wood Glue,  it will form an immediate bond that will make the project workable within minutes and will hold joints together while the wood glue sets.

We are so cool,  we even got some video footage of us doing our thang!  Check out how we assembled the legs.

Due to the nature of wood, it isn’t always perfectly  straight, so often times you will find discrepancies.  That is where Plastic Wood comes in!  As you can see in the image below  some of our joints had a slight gap. Seeing as this is supposed to appear as a solid beam, that simply would not do! So we used spackle knifes and filled the corners with Dap Plastic Wood .  This stuff sands like a dream and is stainable too, Booyah!

  Once the Plastic Wood was completely dry, we used a sander to give the legs a nice smooth finish.

DIY Trestle Entry Table -The Top  (Reference Step 8)

Next Katie cut our top boards.  Again, we used 2×8 boards to create a nice chunky look.

 The top would require us joining two boards together, to do that we used pocket holes.

We wanted this to be a nice tight joint so we used our glue up technique again.  First I applied Carpenter’s Wood Glue in a serpentine pattern. 

After applying the Carpenter’s Wood Glue, I added small dabs of Rapid Fuse.  Lastly, I secured the boards with 2 1/2″ pocket screws. 

DIY Trestle Entry Table – Assembly

(See tutorial for placement and dimensions)

Next, Katie secured our blocks to the underside of the table, as well as the top of the base/feet.  These blocks will fit snuggly under/in the hollow part of the legs.

Once you have the blocks in place,  dry fit them to ensure you have a good fit. After you have confirmed a good fit go ahead and apply Carpenter’s Wood Glue  to the bottom and insides of  the table leg , and then use 1 1/4″ finish nails to secure.  (Make sure that the nails are driven through the leg and into the blocks.) At last we were ready to apply our paint and/or stain. We opted for “Golden Oak” stain by Minwax.  Phew!  Yes, we designed the table,  shopped for the supplies, built said table, and then stained it all in ONE day.  But wait there is more!  We even got a little crazy and staged it together!

 Us DIY bloggers are our own breed of crazy, and we dig it! Isn’t it just yummy!!?  I would later take it over to my friends home and use it as part of the Entry Makeover.  I loved the way Katie and I styled it so much that I duplicated the style in colors that would work in the new space.  I just love everything about it! 

The post DIY Trestle Entry Table appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey there,  make sure you join  me on  Instagram and Facebook  to keep up with our most recent projects and sneak peeks!

Today I am super excited to bring you some brand spankin’ new build plans!  Today I will be showing you how to build a Arhaus inspired Rustic Farmhouse Coffee Table.

Recently,  I have been seeing a lot of pipe shelves and I  love the concept of boards/planks  spanning over the vertical pipe frames. So I got to thinking… I wanted to created the same concept using wood. Then one fateful day I came across an shelf that did just that! Arhaus has a discontinued line that embodied what my brain was trying to put together! (So stay tuned for accompanying pieces, because I have big plans!)

I’m excited  to be  teaming  up with the great folks over at HomeRight on this  project! It is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)  Make sure you enter to win your very own paint tent at the end of the post!

Rustic Farmhouse Coffee Table

Supplies Used:

• (11 ) 1″x 3″ Boards
• (6 ) 1″x 4″ Boards
• (24)  3/4″ x 5/16″Hex Bolts (Optional)
• (24) 5/16″ Washers
• Spray Paint (Optional)
• Stain and/or Paint
• Wood Glue
• 1 1/2″ Finish Nails
• 1 1/4″ Wood Screws

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Drill Bit
• Miter Saw
• Nail Gun
• Home Right Spray Tent
• Home Right Finish Max Sprayer

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1.

 Cut List:

1″x 3″=

• (6)   @ 28″
• (20) @ 21″
• (4)   @ 20 1/2″
• (16) @ 14 1/4″ with 45 degree angles (See Step 3. for more details)

1″x 4″=

• (12) @ 48″

 Step 2.  Assemble Legs

Sandwich the 28″ horizontal supports in-between the 21″ legs.  Use the diagram below to reference the correct spacing.   Use wood glue to secure and reinforce with 1 1/2″ finish nails. Repeat, and repeat. (You will need three of these.)

 Step 3.  Assemble “X” Supports

Assembling these are much easier than they look.  Use wood glue and and finish nails to secure all boards. When attaching the angle cut boards, first add glue, and then “toenail” it in place. (Essentially nail it at an angle.)  Then repeat, and repeat again, and again…  You are gonna need four of these suckers. 

  Step 4.  Spray Stain

Time to add the finish.   For this project I knew I wanted it to be stained, but really  did not feel like getting in the all nooks and crannies of this build… and let’s face it, I am a touch impatient.  So I pulled out my trusty sprayer, and went to town. (Yes,  you can use stain in a sprayer!)  I just popped up my HomeRight Spray Shelter and was good to go.  Honestly, if you are at all a do-it-yourselfer this spray tent is ideal.  It is big enough to fit large projects but small enough to fit in a garage!

  Step 5. Assemble Table

When adding the “X” supports to the legs, I first applied glue, and then used  1 1/4″ wood screws ensure the  “X” supports are securely attached to the legs.

  Step 6. Add Planks

Last step of the build is to add the planks.  There will be a total of (6) boards on top , and (6) boards on the bottom. Secure with wood glue, and reinforce with 1 1/2″ finish nails.

 Step 7.  Add Hardware (optional)

If you would like to add a little more character to this table, then try adding some hardware! I used 3/4″ hex bolts, and added washers to bulk up their  appearance. I simply  drilled 5/16″ holes through the center of the posts.

Before adding the bolts I decided to use spray paint to customize the color.(Pictured: Rust-oleum Soft Iron)  When inserting the bolts, I added a small dab of glue to the inside of the drilled hole. ( I wanted to make sure that the bolts didn’t mysteriously  go missing.)

  Ta-da.  There you have it. A gorgeous piece that is completely functional and totally unique!  Stay tuned for coordinating pieces! 

For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also, follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

   Take Luck,

 Corey
a Rafflecopter giveaway

The post Rustic Farmhouse Coffee Table appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

  I don’t  have a huge  kitchen, so I  have found it fairly important to  utilize  every  square inch.  Do you remember  the tutorial  about the conver-table ?  Well,  shortly  after making a table that was able to  serve multiple functions,  I decided I needed a  bench to match!  I really  wanted to have a kids  eating area,  so when we had company they  could sit at the “adult table”.  I had  looked into making  a cute little  table and chairs for the kiddos,  but like  I mentioned earlier,  I don’t have a huge kitchen.   What a conundrum !?

Challenge Accepted!

      Not only  do I have a tutorial  below,   but Ana White is a rockstar and  has  drafted  up the plans and they are available on her site! Don’t  have access to a tablesaw!? She has a solution for that!

Materials Used:

• Wood Glue
• 2.5″ Wood Screws
• Wood Plugs
• 2×8   (12′)
• 2×10 (8′)
• Shelf Support Bracket
• Spray Paint

Tools Suggested:

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• 18g Nail Gun
• Drill
• 3/8″ drill bit
• Kreg Jig
• Orbital Sander

Cut List:

2×8

4@  17″ (2 of which requires additional cuts)

2@  36″(1 of which requires additional cuts)

2×10

1@ 18.5″

2@ 17″

  Legs

Begin by taking 2 of the 2×8’s that are cut at 17″.   Using a tablesaw cut a notch out of the entire length of the 17″ board.   Then repeat the same process on the second board.

Next take the 2×10  cut at 17″ and line it up the with 2×8 that  has the notch cut out.  Dab a little bit of glue in the joint and then for added precaution I  used 16 gauge 2″ finishing nails.

Repeat the the same process on the other notched out board.

For the next step on the legs,  use a Kreg Jig System and drill 3 holes  on the 2 remaining 2×8″ boards.  ( These will become the chair backs)

Again I used a little bit of wood glue on the joint and then reinforced with 2 1/2″  screws via the pocket holes.  I then repeated on the remaining leg.

 To hide the pocket holes, I  use these awesome little guys! Just  use a dab of glue and use then to fill the pocket holes.

 The Top

For the top I used (2)  2×8’s.   This is where it gets a  little tricky.   Using a jigsaw  I cut out a 9″ section in the center of one of the boards.  I needed the slot to be 9 ” and 1 1/2′ deep.  ( The table top  board will eventually  will sit on this cut out.)  Using the  Kreg Jig again,  I drilled  pocket holes that would allow me to join both 2×8’s together. For added precaution I  used a little bit of wood glue on the seam.   I then  used 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the two boards together via the pocket holes. ( Again,  I used pocket hole plugs to hide the pocket holes.)

Now it is time to attach the legs to the top!

I wanted to conceal the screws as much as possible so I used “wood plugs”.  In order to use these I simply  used a drill bit  (determined by the size plug) in this case I  used a 3/8″  bit.  I  drilled only  partially through the board with this bit.  I then followed  up with a much smaller bit to pre- drill . ( This helps prevent the board from splitting.)  After the hole is pre-drilled  I  used 2 1/2″ wood screws to secure the leg to the top.  I then added a small amount of wood glue to the wood plugs and put them in the screw holes.

   The last  part of the bench/ table is the “kids table top” in order to give the table top a more support I opted to use a heavy duty shelf support.  I didn’t want the hardware sticking out like a sore thumb so I used an “Oil rubbed bronze” spray paint to help it blend in a little better. After the  bracket had completely  dried  I installed it so that it would be centered.

Now it’s time for the table top! Using the remaining 2×10″  I placed it in the previously  cut out notch, and then secured it to the bracket from the underside.

   I also  secured the table top on the topside.  Again,  I repeated the same steps as earlier.  I  partially drilled with a 3/8″  bit and then pre-drilled with a smaller bit.  Secured it in place with  2 1/2″ wood screws, followed with 3/8″ wood plugs.

Finish Work

That completes the structural aspect now,  on to the finish work.  Bust out the wood filler and fill any and all holes.  I  normally  apply a  small amount to the top of all the the wood plugs. It fills in all the small crannies and does a great  job camouflaging the wood plugs.

After the wood filler has completely dried,  I used an orbital  hand sander to smooth out the entire piece,  paying special attention to the areas where a wood plug was  used.

Now,  it is ready for  stain and or paint.  I opted for Minwax Jacobean stain and then  followed up with the “Satin Finish” polyurethane.

Mission Completed!

A space saving STURDY bench, that when flipped on its side, is an AWESOME  kids eating area, complete with two chairs and a table.  Booyah!

The post Kids Bench/Table appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Okay, so  I had a kitchen table and whenever I needed more space or was mopping,  I would push it up against the window.   It  made the kitchen so much bigger! I loved it and so did my Husband,  but the designer in me hated it.  So,  here was my newly created problem… push it against the wall and have space, or in the middle and have it be functional….
Well I love a good problem…

 

 

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