Hey all, I kind of pride myself on working fast, and knocking out projects like nobody’s business. But the last few months… whooa! I feel like I have not sat down since we moved.  Granted the house is looking gorgeous, but some projects had to take a back burner,  this organizer being one of them.  Originally  I wanted to have this  done before the kids went back to school!  (Whoops,  missed that deadline.) Regardless, I wanted to build an organizer  that  (theoretically)  I could  lay out  their clothing the night before school, and have a bin for shoes and socks. With the thought, that if they had their whole outfit (socks and all) out  they could get themselves dressed. (Theoretically)

So…. I took inspiration from a Pottery Barn Organizer and designed this little beauty!

I’m excited  to be  teaming  up with the great folks over at HomeRight on this  project! It is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)  Make sure you enter to win your very own paint tent at the end of the post!

Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Organizer

Supplies Used:

• (1) 1″x 10″ x 8′ Common Pine Board  (Actual finished dimensions: 3/4″ x 9 1/4″ x 8′)
• (1 ) 1″x 8″ x 8′ Common Pine Board ( Actual finished dimensions : 3/4″ x 7 1/3″ x 8′)
• (1) 1″x 3″ x 8′ Common Board
• 1 1/4″ Kreg Jig  Screws
• Stain and/or Paint
• Wood Glue
• 1 1/2″ Finish Nails
  Tools Suggested:
  • Drill
  • Drill Bit
  • Kreg  JIg
  • Miter Saw
  • Nail Gun
  • Homeright Small Spray Shelter
  • Homeright Spray Shelter
  • HomeRight Finish Max Fine Finish Sprayer

  Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Don’t forget to enter the GIVEAWAY at the bottom of the post! 

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  Step 1.

   Cut List:

  1’x 10″ Board

  • (2) @ 33″ ( Top and Base Boards)

  1″x 8″ Board

  • (2) @ 9 1/4″  (End Supports)
  • (2) @ 8 1/2″  (Center Dividers)
  • (1) @ 33″  (Bottom Apron )
  • (2) @ 8 1/2″ ( These will be modified to make the support corbels on the base.)

1″x 3″ Board

• (2) @ 30″ ( These will be modified to create a french cleat for installation.)

Step 2.  Attach End Supports to the Top Board

Step 3. Cut French Cleat Boards

Step 4. Add Interior French Cleat

When attaching the back cleat make sure you position the cleat so that the 45 degree angle faces toward the front of the unit.

Step 5.  Dividers

Step 6.  Attach the Base Board

Measure the appropriate distance ( use Step 5 as a reference).  Using 1-1/2″ wood screws from the underside, going through the 1″x 8″ board into the dividers and end supports.

Step 7. Add the Bottom Apron

Drill pocket holes along the top ledge of the board. Then using 1-1/2″ kreg screws attach the bottom apron board to the bottom of the cubby unit.

Step 8. Cut Corbels

Cut the 8 1/2″ x 7-1/4″ board into corbels. Once the boards/corbels  are cut drill pocket holes.

Step 9.  Attach Corbels/Supports

Step 10 . Finish

I was debating over painting  or staining, but ultimately I decided to stain it so that it would match my son’s room. If I had chosen to paint I would have hands down used a HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer and a Homeright Spray Shelter.    Because this was small build I quickly stained it, but  when I do my large builds I normally  opt to SPRAY my stain!  Yup you can do that!

 You can read all about it here. (And get all the details on that devilishly looking good build as well.) 

Step 11. Add Hardware

This is my favorite part, adding hardware!  I feel like the right hardware can definitely take a build to the next level!  I wanted there to be a mix of materials and metal is always a favorite.  I found these awesome little wire baskets at Target in the dollar section! Woot woot!  I love the dollar section!  I got them all for $3 a piece,  they were the perfect size, but the color… hmmm.  It just wasn’t going to jive with the motif.

No worries we can handle that!  I pulled out my handy  pop-up Homeright Small Spray Shelter,  and took care of that color in a jiffy!

I wanted to error on the side of caution, so I did a quick coat of spray primer.   Followed by a coat of  “Soft  Iron” by Rustoleum. 

Next up, the hooks! Naturally they needed to match my baskets, so into the spray shelter they went!  You will notice I even have the spray shelter set up inside,  yup, I had no worries. This spray shelter works like a charm.

Step 12.  Install Wall Cleat

All that is left to do is install! To attach the wall you will need to install the second cleat.  When installing I suggest a 3″ screw and make sure you are solidly into (2) studs.  I decided to paint my cleat the color of the wall so that it will blend in with the wall!

To install all you need to do is put the wall unit against the wall and drop the unit into place so that the cleats are puzzle pieced together!

That’s all there is to it folks! Side note: we used this for the first time yesterday morning and it worked like a charm!  We had laid out my boys’ clothing the night before and put their shoes and socks in their cubbies, in the morning their alarm went off and they got themselves dressed and came downstairs with out me needing to holler up the stair even once!  Ahh…. success!

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The post Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Organizer appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

 Supplies Used:

•  A whole bunch of FREE crap
• Elbow Grease
• Lots of of Work
• Clearance Hardware from Lowes

Ok, I am speaking to all of my skilled craftsmen out there,  please just ignore the following post. Seriously, stop reading. The following post will make you cringe.

BUT to all of my  DIYer,  makeover addicts, and frugal finders, you are gonna love this!  I am going to show you,  how I took a whole bunch of free Craigslist crap  and turned it into an awesome workspace.

It all started with these cabinets. These were originally from a High School  renovation.  There were three left and I was able to snag them for free!  I sanded them down, primed them, and then installed them.

The next question was what to use for counter tops… the cabinets from the high school,  did have a counter top,  BUT   I wanted to space out the cabinets to allow for more storage,   so the original counter top would be far too small.

Well my Husband was scrolling through the “free” section of Craigslist, and came upon  two FREE “all wood doors”.  So  he was my hero and went and snagged those from the curb.  Which was no easy feat, those beasts are HEAVY,  which is  probably why the owner assumed they were all wood…  They weren’t.  They were solid core, meaning they aren’t hollow,  but they were not solid wood. Which presented some problems,  but stay  tuned I will be showing you how I turned them into awesome  counter tops.

Next, I needed to create some overhead storage.  Over the past few months my husband acquired quite a collection of solid wood furniture for me.  He found them by  simply  perusing the “Free” section of Craigslist.  After moving all of these pieces from place to place while trying to organize the garage, I decided to sacrifice all my spare wood and potential projects towards the greater good of the garage. I tore them all apart and ripped them down to make my  cabinets.

Like I said,  all pro wood workers,  look away.  I am butchering these cabinets.

BUT  guess what they are in my garage, they  are going to take some abuse and are FREE.

Mic Drop.

  After a little bit of playing around with sizes, I came up with this configuration. I kept one of the cabinets in the original dimensions ( the center one) and then  installed the two side cabinets.    I then used 1×2’s and 1×3’s to make face frames for the cabinets.

The only  part of the project I really  spent money on was making the cabinet doors.   I  made a simple shaker style cabinet door.  I apparently  got a little ahead of myself and did not document the process.

BUT,  Jill  from “The Rozy Home” did   great post at Remodelaholic showing “How to Make a Shaker Cabinet Door”.

After deliberating over the cabinet color I settled on a dark gray.   I am not going to lie, I changed  some of the cabinets 3 times! After my frustrating trial runs, I realized I  really wanted them to match the floor.  So that is exactly what I did.  I had leftover paint from  refinishing the floor, and so that is what I used!  Ha.

 Last thing they needed was hardware.  A few months ago,  I was at Lowes and stumbled upon this hardware… all on CLEARANCE!  they were selling the small pulls for like $.49!   The large ones for $.97! I bought every single one, and I am so glad I did. I have used them everywhere and had just enough to put them on my garage cabinets!

  So there you have it,  my  nearly free modge podge garage cabinets.  There is a lot more to the garage renovation, but that will need to wait for another day.

 The moral of the story: If  you are hesitant to start an overhaul  because of the price, then  start hitting up the “free” section of Craigslist.  It WILL be a lot more work,  but it is A  LOT cheaper!

 Take Luck,

Corey

The post My Recycled Shop Cabinets appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Materials Used:

• 1×6″  (x1 @ 6′)
• 1×3″  (x2 @8′)
• 1×8″  (x1 @6′)
• 1×2″  (x1 @ 8′)
• 1/2″ x  3  1/2 ” Board  ( I found this in the trim section, they were  only 1/2″ thick, or you can use a planer)
• Paneling 1/4″  (2’x4′ sheet)
• Cup Hooks  (x 10)
• Mirror ( 20″ x 15 3/4″)  I found that Lowes will cut  this size mirror for about $12.00
• Full Extension Ball Bearing drawer Glides 16″
• (3)  2″ drawer pulls
• (3)  Coat Hooks
• Wood Glue

Tools Suggested:

• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
• Table saw
• Finish Nailer

Making the Frame-

1×3″-

•  21 ” long point to long point  with 45 degree angles    (x2)
•  25″ long point to long point with 45 degree  angles     (x2)

• Using a Kreg Jig , drill pocket holes  in order to create  a 90 angle.
• Repeat on all four corners, in order to create the rectangle frame.

 The Back of the Framed Mirror-

1×3″-

• 19.5″   (x2)
•  25″     (x1)

 Paneling (1/4″)-

•     20 1/4″ x  23  1/2″

Using a Kreg Jig  make pocket holes to:

• Join the 2 joints.
• Attach the frame to the back.

Using wood glue,  secure the 20 1/4″  x  23 1/2″ paneling behind the frame opening.

Top Piece-

1×6″ Board  ( You will need to rip this down)

• 22″x 5″

Using wood glue place the board centered on top of the unit.  Then reinforce with 1″ wood screws. I wold suggest using a counter sink drill bit and pre-drill.

Corbel-

Use a 1×2″ board to make  the corbel.  Then attach  at the top corners of the mirror. 

Base-

1×8″ ( You will need to rip this down)

• 22″  x  7 1/4″  (x2)
• 5″ x 7 1/4″      (x2)

Drawer-

1×6″ ( You will need to rip this down)

• 19 1/4  x 4 3×4″ (x2)

1×4″ Board

• 5 1/2″  ( x2)

Paneling

• 6x 18 1/2″

In order to create the appearance of 3 individual drawers, I  made cuts in one of the 19 1/4″ boards.  To enhance that card catalog look I used small 2″ label pulls.

When making the drawer using  either a table saw or a router and cut a 1/4″ deep groove, approximately 1/2″ from the bottom edge. (See image below.)

Using a Kreg  Jig I attached the sides to the front of the drawer. Add  a small bead of glue to the cut out groove of the boards.  Then slide the paneling into the grooves.   Then attach back  with  glue and reinforce with a nailer.

Hook Base-

1×4″ Board-

• 19 1/2″
• 5″         (x2)   (These will be made into the corbels,see dimensions below.)

I   attached the  the corbels to the base board using pocket holes, and then fastened  it to the base of the jewelry  case.

( You can fill the holes with Kreg Jig Wood Plugs.)

Drawer Insert-

1×2″ Boards

• 22 1/2″ (x2)
• 16″        (x2)

Paneling 1/4″

• 22′ x 17 1/4″

Construct the fame using the 1 x 2″ boards. (Hold off on attaching the 1×3″ board until after you have installed the drawer glide.

At this point I would pre-drill the locations for your cup hooks.

Nearly  there! One of the last steps is adding the drawer glides.

Once you have your  drawer glide  installed, then add the 1×3″ trim board. (Remember this is only 1/2″ as opposed to standard boards that are typically 3/4″ thick. We need that ext 1/4″ allowance so that we can use a magnetic touch latch.  This will allow the opening to stay inconspicuous, while still allowing easy access.

The Finish-

I  used “Weathered Gray”  from Minwax, I then used a small amount of Minwax Jacobean to darken the edges and crevices.  I then white washed the entire unit two times.  Both times wiping away  any excess with a rag.  Once dried completely I  used a finishing wax.

 The Hardware –

After the finish has completely  dried,  it’s time to add the last of the hardware and the mirror. To place the mirror, I  smoothed an ample amount of Liquid Nails on  to the panel sitting with in the frame.  Gently set the mirror in place and allow to dry.

I decided to add trim  to the interior rim of  mirror, so it would hide the edges and create a nice finished look. (If you own a router, then you can easily route out the interior lip of the 1×3″ boards to  hide these edges as well.  I was simply  trying to make this tutorial more accessible to more readers. )

 Now, slap on the hooks and pulls!  I always love adding the finishing touches!  Only thing left to consider is how to install  it on a wall. I opted for this:

 Now,  hang er’ up and enjoy!     

The post Secret Compartment Jewelry Case appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

The holidays are coming up,  which means a lot of baking, and cooking. Are you ready ?   Well,  kitchen  organization has been lacking a little…  Especially  my “baking” cabinet.  It needed a little bit of a facelift. 

Supplies  Used:

•  (2) 1″x4″  Boards (8′)
• Primer
• Paint
• 1 1/2″  FinishNails
• Wood Glue
• Glass Jars
• Round Stickers
• Black Primer
• 1/4″ Paneling

 Tools Suggested

•  Miter Saw
• Sander
• Paint Brushes
• Nail Gun
• Compressor

Spice Rack 

Step 1: Prep Boards

Cut boards, sand all the boards.

Cut List:

1″x 4″=

• (2)    17  1/4″
• (2)    22  1/2″
• (3)   21″

Paneling=

• 18 3/4  x  22 1/2″

Step 2: Assemble Frame

I first applied glue, and then reinforced with 2″ nails.  Make  sure to use a square when constructing the shelf.  Once constructed fill all holes with nail filler,  and then  sand.

Step 3:  Add Shelves

Add shelves using the dimensions depicted in the image below.  For good measure I used wood glue and reinforced with 1 1/2″ finish nails.

Step 4: Attach Backing

Once  the shelf is constructed,  I then applied glue to the back, and then reinforced the paneling with 1/4″ nails.

Step 5: Finish

After the structure is completed, sand, prime and paint! ( I ended up distressing mine.)

Step 6: Add Spices

I used glass tilted jars,  I know you can purchase them at Ikea and Hobby Lobby.  If you have access to baby food jars that would be and awesome/cheaper alternative.

I used  chalkboard stickers  for my jar labels.  When I originally  made this spice organizer,  chalkboard stickers were not readily  available.  If you have trouble locating  chalkboard stickers.  Consider this alternative.

This awesome spice rack is extremely  versatile!  It can either go on a counter top,  mounted to the wall , or like I did fit in the cabinet!  I love the way it looked.

I liked it so much that  I added a  few more modifications.  Next on the agenda ?

 Measuring Spoon Rack

I used a 1×2″ board.  I then  pre-drilled holes.

I then painted the board and added the hooks.  All that was left, was to attach the board to the cabinet door.

  I even ended up  adding an extra shelf to the other door.  It is perfect for salt, pepper, and commonly used spices.

So there you have it folks,  an easy fix for the cluttered cupboard!

The post Spice Cabinet appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Today you can find me over at Remodelaholic, where I will be showing you how I took a boring media cabinet and turned it into a kids storage locker!  Head on over and check it out!

The post Turn a cabinet into a Locker! appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

You can see how I  turned a  false front cabinet door, into something amazing! Head on over to Remodelaholics  to read more, and make sure to show them some love!
Corey

The post Hair Tool Storage appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.