Seating Archives - Sawdust 2 Stitches https://sawdust2stitches.com/category/tutorials/seating/ Thu, 04 May 2017 02:43:27 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Kids Bench/Table https://sawdust2stitches.com/kids-benchtable/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=kids-benchtable https://sawdust2stitches.com/kids-benchtable/#comments Thu, 30 Oct 2014 16:31:38 +0000 http://sawdust2stitches.com/?p=1221   I don’t  have a huge  kitchen, so I  have found it fairly important to  utilize  every  square inch.  Do you remember  the tutorial  about the conver-table ?  Well,  shortly  after making a table that was able to  serve multiple functions,  I decided I needed a  bench to match!  I really  wanted to have a […]

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  I don’t  have a huge  kitchen, so I  have found it fairly important to  utilize  every  square inch.  Do you remember  the tutorial  about the conver-table ?  Well,  shortly  after making a table that was able to  serve multiple functions,  I decided I needed a  bench to match!  I really  wanted to have a kids  eating area,  so when we had company they  could sit at the “adult table”.  I had  looked into making  a cute little  table and chairs for the kiddos,  but like  I mentioned earlier,  I don’t have a huge kitchen.   What a conundrum !?

Challenge Accepted!

      Not only  do I have a tutorial  below,   but Ana White is a rockstar and  has  drafted  up the plans and they are available on her site! Don’t  have access to a tablesaw!? She has a solution for that!

Materials Used:

  • Wood Glue
  • 2.5″ Wood Screws
  • Wood Plugs
  • 2×8   (12′)
  • 2×10 (8′)
  • Shelf Support Bracket
  • Spray Paint

 

Tools Suggested:

  • Miter Saw
  • Table Saw
  • 18g Nail Gun
  • Drill
  • 3/8″ drill bit
  • Kreg Jig
  • Orbital Sander

 

Cut List:

2×8

4@  17″ (2 of which requires additional cuts)

2@  36″(1 of which requires additional cuts)

2×10

1@ 18.5″

2@ 17″

  Legs

Begin by taking 2 of the 2×8’s that are cut at 17″.   Using a tablesaw cut a notch out of the entire length of the 17″ board.   Then repeat the same process on the second board.

Bench Table 1 Sawdust 2 Stitches

Next take the 2×10  cut at 17″ and line it up the with 2×8 that  has the notch cut out.  Dab a little bit of glue in the joint and then for added precaution I  used 16 gauge 2″ finishing nails.

Bench Table 8 Sawdust2Stitches

Repeat the the same process on the other notched out board.

Bench Table 7 SAwdust2Stitches

For the next step on the legs,  use a Kreg Jig System and drill 3 holes  on the 2 remaining 2×8″ boards.  ( These will become the chair backs) Bench Table 6 Sawdust2Stitches

Again I used a little bit of wood glue on the joint and then reinforced with 2 1/2″  screws via the pocket holes.  I then repeated on the remaining leg.

Bench Table 11 Sawdust2Stitches

 To hide the pocket holes, I  use these awesome little guys!Bench Table 9 Sawdust2Stiches Just  use a dab of glue and use then to fill the pocket holes.

 The Top

For the top I used (2)  2×8’s.   This is where it gets a  little tricky.   Using a jigsaw  I cut out a 9″ section in the center of one of the boards.  I needed the slot to be 9 ” and 1 1/2′ deep.  ( The table top  board will eventually  will sit on this cut out.)  Bench Table 5 Sawdust2Stitches Using the  Kreg Jig again,  I drilled  pocket holes that would allow me to join both 2×8’s together. For added precaution I  used a little bit of wood glue on the seam.   I then  used 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the two boards together via the pocket holes. ( Again,  I used pocket hole plugs to hide the pocket holes.)

Bench Table 4 Sawdust2StitchesNow it is time to attach the legs to the top!

Bench Table 15 Sawdust2Stitches I wanted to conceal the screws as much as possible so I used “wood plugs”.  In order to use these I simply  used a drill bit  (determined by the size plug) in this case I  used a 3/8″  bit.  I  drilled only  partially through the board with this bit.  I then followed  up with a much smaller bit to pre- drill . ( This helps prevent the board from splitting.)  After the hole is pre-drilled  I  used 2 1/2″ wood screws to secure the leg to the top.  I then added a small amount of wood glue to the wood plugs and put them in the screw holes.

Bench Table collage  Sawdust2stitches   The last  part of the bench/ table is the “kids table top” in order to give the table top a more support I opted to use a heavy duty shelf support.  I didn’t want the hardware sticking out like a sore thumb so I used an “Oil rubbed bronze” spray paint to help it blend in a little better. Bench Table 16 Sawdust2StitchesAfter the  bracket had completely  dried  I installed it so that it would be centered.

Bench Table install bracket Sawdust2StitchesNow it’s time for the table top! Using the remaining 2×10″  I placed it in the previously  cut out notch, and then secured it to the bracket from the underside.

Bench Table top  Sawdust2Stitches

   I also  secured the table top on the topside.  Again,  I repeated the same steps as earlier.  I  partially drilled with a 3/8″  bit and then pre-drilled with a smaller bit.  Secured it in place with  2 1/2″ wood screws, followed with 3/8″ wood plugs. Bench Table 21 Sawdust2Stitches

Finish Work

That completes the structural aspect now,  on to the finish work.  Bust out the wood filler and fill any and all holes.  I  normally  apply a  small amount to the top of all the the wood plugs. It fills in all the small crannies and does a great  job camouflaging the wood plugs.

After the wood filler has completely dried,  I used an orbital  hand sander to smooth out the entire piece,  paying special attention to the areas where a wood plug was  used.

Now,  it is ready for  stain and or paint.  I opted for Minwax Jacobean stain and then  followed up with the “Satin Finish” polyurethane.

PicMonkey Collage polu

Mission Completed!

A space saving STURDY bench, that when flipped on its side, is an AWESOME  kids eating area, complete with two chairs and a table.  Booyah!

PicMonkey Collage sideways

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Crib Mattress Porch Swing https://sawdust2stitches.com/crib-mattress-porch-swing/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=crib-mattress-porch-swing https://sawdust2stitches.com/crib-mattress-porch-swing/#comments Sat, 05 Oct 2013 22:12:00 +0000 http://sawdust2stitches.wordpress.com/2013/10/05/crib-mattress-porch-swing   I happened to have an extra crib mattress laying around…  one thing led to another…     The crib mattress that was collecting dust in the garage ultimately gave my front room the “wow factor”. Do you by chance have an extra crib mattress laying around ? Well my friend,  you are in luck,  you […]

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 Porch Swing Sawdust2stitches.com
I happened to have an extra crib mattress laying around…  one thing led to another…
    The crib mattress that was collecting dust in the garage ultimately gave my front room the “wow factor”. Do you by chance have an extra crib mattress laying around ? Well my friend,  you are in luck,  you can make your very own porch swing.
 
Shopping List:
8 = 1×4’s
3=  1×2’s
3=  2×3’s
Plywood
Brad Nails
3″ wood screws
1 1/4″ Screws
4=  6″  eyelet bolt w/ bolts and washers
Rope (length varies, depending on suspended height and ceiling height,  mine was approx 35-40′)
4= swing hardware hooks
Crib Mattress
 
Suggested Materials/Tools:
Sander
Miter Saw
Table Saw ( For plywood,  you can ask this to be cut at your home improvement store.)
 Drill
 1/2″ drill bit
 Nail gun ( You can complete this by hand or with a drill if needed)
 Air Compressor if applicable.
 Brad Nails
 3″ Wood Screws
1 1/4″ Wood Screws  ( Not necessary if using a nail gun.)
Cut List:
 1×4’s
5@  52″
6@  27
2@  26.5
8@  22″
1×2’s
1@ 56″     (45 degree angles, long point to long point)
2@ 29.5″  (45 degree angles, long point to long point)
2 @ 4″      (45 degree angle ,  long point to straight end)
2@ 21″
1@ 46″
2×3’s
2@ 47.5″
2@ 26.5″
2@ 23.5″
Plywood
1 @  26.5″ x  50.5″
 Begin by prepping your wood,  and making all your cuts.  ( If you are a beginner,  I might suggest making your cuts as you go, making sure all pieces fit correctly.)
Second,  sand and stain/paint all your 1×2’s and 1×4’s.  While they are drying you can construct your   base out of 2×3’s. (Your base will not be visible.)
Use 3″ screws when constructing the base.
Next, screw and or nail 2 of the 52″ and 26.5″  1×4’s around the perimeter of the base.
 Using a square or a level fasten  your 1×4’s cut @ 22″ at each corner so that they are vertical.
At this point you can fasten the  remaining  52″ slats and the 27 1/4″ horizontal slats.  The top slat will be flush with the top of the 22″ vertical supports.
Next install the top finishing pieces,  which consists of the 1×2’s cut at  56″ (long point to long point) , 2@ 29.5″ (long point to long point),and 2 @ 4″ ( long point to straight cut ).

After the top rail is in place,  take the remaining 1×2’s and install directly below the top rail. (See pictures below.)  Install the 21″ pieces on the sides and the last 46″  along the back.

 Before placing the plywood in the base, we need to drill holes for the eyelet hooks.
 The placement of your eyelet bolt  holes will vary depending on where you are hanging it.  Mine are placed just inside the corners of my base. (You will be drilling through the 1×4″ and the 2×3″)
Once the hole is drilled insert and secure the eyelet bolt  with a locking washer, and bolt.
 I put a large washer on the outside of my swing as well, mainly because I like the look of exposed hardware.
Ok, I am not going to sugar coat it,  building the swing wasn’t too hard, it was installing the thing that is a pain in the ! You will NEED to mount  your swing hardware into ceiling joists.  I spent a good hour trying to configure measurements that would work. Just bear in mind, the closer set the ceiling hooks, the more momentum  the swing can get… Just log that one away.
(Swing hardware)
  You can use chain if you would like to suspend your swing,  I chose to use rope,  if using chain simply count out the links  before hanging. If you chose rope here is my suggestion.   Decide  how far off the ground you would like your swing to sit. Find a sturdy  item that is the same height and  rest your swing on it  while you attach the ropes.  This will make life easier, and you are assured  it will be level. Originally I  had tried to measure my rope in advance,  but it turned out to be trickier than I had anticipated.

 

 Now that everything is installed, you can  make it pretty!  I actually designed this swing  to accommodate a crib size mattress, BECAUSE they are considerably cheaper than buying foam to make a cushion.  Another bonus for all my sewing illiterate friends,  you can slap a crib sheet on it and call it good!

  Add some throw pillows and you are done! Now sit down,  open a nice cold Diet Coke  and relax in your new swing!

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