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Today I am super excited to bring you some brand spankin’ new build plans!  Today I will be showing you how to build a Arhaus inspired Rustic Farmhouse Coffee Table.

Recently,  I have been seeing a lot of pipe shelves and I  love the concept of boards/planks  spanning over the vertical pipe frames. So I got to thinking… I wanted to created the same concept using wood. Then one fateful day I came across an shelf that did just that! Arhaus has a discontinued line that embodied what my brain was trying to put together! (So stay tuned for accompanying pieces, because I have big plans!)

I’m excited  to be  teaming  up with the great folks over at HomeRight on this  project! It is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)  Make sure you enter to win your very own paint tent at the end of the post!

Rustic Farmhouse Coffee Table

Supplies Used:

• (11 ) 1″x 3″ Boards
• (6 ) 1″x 4″ Boards
• (24)  3/4″ x 5/16″Hex Bolts (Optional)
• (24) 5/16″ Washers
• Spray Paint (Optional)
• Stain and/or Paint
• Wood Glue
• 1 1/2″ Finish Nails
• 1 1/4″ Wood Screws

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Drill Bit
• Miter Saw
• Nail Gun
• Home Right Spray Tent
• Home Right Finish Max Sprayer

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1.

 Cut List:

1″x 3″=

• (6)   @ 28″
• (20) @ 21″
• (4)   @ 20 1/2″
• (16) @ 14 1/4″ with 45 degree angles (See Step 3. for more details)

1″x 4″=

• (12) @ 48″

 Step 2.  Assemble Legs

Sandwich the 28″ horizontal supports in-between the 21″ legs.  Use the diagram below to reference the correct spacing.   Use wood glue to secure and reinforce with 1 1/2″ finish nails. Repeat, and repeat. (You will need three of these.)

 Step 3.  Assemble “X” Supports

Assembling these are much easier than they look.  Use wood glue and and finish nails to secure all boards. When attaching the angle cut boards, first add glue, and then “toenail” it in place. (Essentially nail it at an angle.)  Then repeat, and repeat again, and again…  You are gonna need four of these suckers. 

  Step 4.  Spray Stain

Time to add the finish.   For this project I knew I wanted it to be stained, but really  did not feel like getting in the all nooks and crannies of this build… and let’s face it, I am a touch impatient.  So I pulled out my trusty sprayer, and went to town. (Yes,  you can use stain in a sprayer!)  I just popped up my HomeRight Spray Shelter and was good to go.  Honestly, if you are at all a do-it-yourselfer this spray tent is ideal.  It is big enough to fit large projects but small enough to fit in a garage!

  Step 5. Assemble Table

When adding the “X” supports to the legs, I first applied glue, and then used  1 1/4″ wood screws ensure the  “X” supports are securely attached to the legs.

  Step 6. Add Planks

Last step of the build is to add the planks.  There will be a total of (6) boards on top , and (6) boards on the bottom. Secure with wood glue, and reinforce with 1 1/2″ finish nails.

 Step 7.  Add Hardware (optional)

If you would like to add a little more character to this table, then try adding some hardware! I used 3/4″ hex bolts, and added washers to bulk up their  appearance. I simply  drilled 5/16″ holes through the center of the posts.

Before adding the bolts I decided to use spray paint to customize the color.(Pictured: Rust-oleum Soft Iron)  When inserting the bolts, I added a small dab of glue to the inside of the drilled hole. ( I wanted to make sure that the bolts didn’t mysteriously  go missing.)

  Ta-da.  There you have it. A gorgeous piece that is completely functional and totally unique!  Stay tuned for coordinating pieces! 

For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also, follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

   Take Luck,

 Corey
a Rafflecopter giveaway

The post Rustic Farmhouse Coffee Table appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

  I don’t  have a huge  kitchen, so I  have found it fairly important to  utilize  every  square inch.  Do you remember  the tutorial  about the conver-table ?  Well,  shortly  after making a table that was able to  serve multiple functions,  I decided I needed a  bench to match!  I really  wanted to have a kids  eating area,  so when we had company they  could sit at the “adult table”.  I had  looked into making  a cute little  table and chairs for the kiddos,  but like  I mentioned earlier,  I don’t have a huge kitchen.   What a conundrum !?

Challenge Accepted!

      Not only  do I have a tutorial  below,   but Ana White is a rockstar and  has  drafted  up the plans and they are available on her site! Don’t  have access to a tablesaw!? She has a solution for that!

Materials Used:

• Wood Glue
• 2.5″ Wood Screws
• Wood Plugs
• 2×8   (12′)
• 2×10 (8′)
• Shelf Support Bracket
• Spray Paint

Tools Suggested:

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• 18g Nail Gun
• Drill
• 3/8″ drill bit
• Kreg Jig
• Orbital Sander

Cut List:

2×8

4@  17″ (2 of which requires additional cuts)

2@  36″(1 of which requires additional cuts)

2×10

1@ 18.5″

2@ 17″

  Legs

Begin by taking 2 of the 2×8’s that are cut at 17″.   Using a tablesaw cut a notch out of the entire length of the 17″ board.   Then repeat the same process on the second board.

Next take the 2×10  cut at 17″ and line it up the with 2×8 that  has the notch cut out.  Dab a little bit of glue in the joint and then for added precaution I  used 16 gauge 2″ finishing nails.

Repeat the the same process on the other notched out board.

For the next step on the legs,  use a Kreg Jig System and drill 3 holes  on the 2 remaining 2×8″ boards.  ( These will become the chair backs)

Again I used a little bit of wood glue on the joint and then reinforced with 2 1/2″  screws via the pocket holes.  I then repeated on the remaining leg.

 To hide the pocket holes, I  use these awesome little guys! Just  use a dab of glue and use then to fill the pocket holes.

 The Top

For the top I used (2)  2×8’s.   This is where it gets a  little tricky.   Using a jigsaw  I cut out a 9″ section in the center of one of the boards.  I needed the slot to be 9 ” and 1 1/2′ deep.  ( The table top  board will eventually  will sit on this cut out.)  Using the  Kreg Jig again,  I drilled  pocket holes that would allow me to join both 2×8’s together. For added precaution I  used a little bit of wood glue on the seam.   I then  used 2 1/2″ screws to fasten the two boards together via the pocket holes. ( Again,  I used pocket hole plugs to hide the pocket holes.)

Now it is time to attach the legs to the top!

I wanted to conceal the screws as much as possible so I used “wood plugs”.  In order to use these I simply  used a drill bit  (determined by the size plug) in this case I  used a 3/8″  bit.  I  drilled only  partially through the board with this bit.  I then followed  up with a much smaller bit to pre- drill . ( This helps prevent the board from splitting.)  After the hole is pre-drilled  I  used 2 1/2″ wood screws to secure the leg to the top.  I then added a small amount of wood glue to the wood plugs and put them in the screw holes.

   The last  part of the bench/ table is the “kids table top” in order to give the table top a more support I opted to use a heavy duty shelf support.  I didn’t want the hardware sticking out like a sore thumb so I used an “Oil rubbed bronze” spray paint to help it blend in a little better. After the  bracket had completely  dried  I installed it so that it would be centered.

Now it’s time for the table top! Using the remaining 2×10″  I placed it in the previously  cut out notch, and then secured it to the bracket from the underside.

   I also  secured the table top on the topside.  Again,  I repeated the same steps as earlier.  I  partially drilled with a 3/8″  bit and then pre-drilled with a smaller bit.  Secured it in place with  2 1/2″ wood screws, followed with 3/8″ wood plugs.

Finish Work

That completes the structural aspect now,  on to the finish work.  Bust out the wood filler and fill any and all holes.  I  normally  apply a  small amount to the top of all the the wood plugs. It fills in all the small crannies and does a great  job camouflaging the wood plugs.

After the wood filler has completely dried,  I used an orbital  hand sander to smooth out the entire piece,  paying special attention to the areas where a wood plug was  used.

Now,  it is ready for  stain and or paint.  I opted for Minwax Jacobean stain and then  followed up with the “Satin Finish” polyurethane.

Mission Completed!

A space saving STURDY bench, that when flipped on its side, is an AWESOME  kids eating area, complete with two chairs and a table.  Booyah!

The post Kids Bench/Table appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

  Supplies Suggested:

• Old beat up table
• 1×4’s
•  Stain
• Paint
• Polyurethane
• Wood Filler
• Wood Glue

 Tools Needed:

•  Sander (  I used a planer too)
• Miter Saw
• Nail  Gun

I found a random table sitting on the curb in our neighborhood.  I actually  drove right past it the first 2 days.   I couldn’t think of any great place to put it.  So I figured I would skip the step of storing it in my garage.

It was while I was working on my patio floor,  that it dawned on me,  I need a matching table to accompany this plain jane rectangle table.  *Light Bulb*.

* FYI- I am working on two different tables through this project,  so don’t be confused when  it shows a square table  then a rectangle table, and vis- versa.  The goal was to make these two Non-matching tables,  match.*

Prep:

I prepped by scuffing/sanding all surfaces.

Priming:

I began by  taping off anything,  I did’t want painted.  Once taped,  I was ready to prime. ( I  am aware that there are many paints, that contain primer.  I am old school, and I  think that primer makes a difference.)

I am going to let you all in on a secret… SPRAY PRIMER.  I love it,  I do.  As much as I boast being frugal,  this is one item I think is worth it’s weight in gold.   It creates a perfect base,  with little or no streaks.  Yes, it is more expensive than by-the- gallon  primer, but like I said,  I love it.

Paint:

I realize this doesn’t follow the pictures,  but when I was making these,  I was still undecided as to there ending color.  SO I skipped to the next step. BUT for anyone who doesn’t struggle with  commitment to color,  I would strongly suggest painting now.

Wood Slat Top:

All the measurements will vary dependent on the size of table,  below is an example of what I did for the rectangle table.    I cut all the  boards so that it would have a border of 1×4’s and the center would be slats.  I calculated my wood pieces so that it would have 1.5″ over hang.  This is a personal preference.

Glue it Down:

As a precaution I glued all my slats down,  I wanted to eliminate ANY gap under the board.  (These tables are intended to endure  outdoor humidity in Florida.  Small  crevices are gross here.)  Just slather on some glue, and  press all the boards in place firmly.

Nail er’ Down:

Once all the boards are in place,  I also tacked them in place with a nail gun.  I didn’t want those suckers going anywhere.

 Wood Filler:

No matter how perfect my measurements,  there are always annoying cracks.  Again,  since these are intended for outdoors,  I could not afford and places for water to permeate.  So, I filled all of them!  I filled them all twice.  I was not taking any chances.

Stain:

Once the wood filler is  dried,  I then stained the top.  I used Jacobean by Minwax.

All in the Details:

After the top was stained a dark brown,  the legs of the table looked VERY, VERY  green.  So, I used the technique that I explained here.   It helped considerably.  At this point I also added the trim piece you see directly  under the stained  table top.

 Polyurethane:

Polyurethane  serves as  protection to stained surfaces, so I polyurethaned the crap out of those tables.  I think I did 4 coats ?   Just make sure you follow the directions on your choice of Polyurethane.  I always use  fine steel wool  in between  each coat.

Overall,  I think I  spent $4.00 on a paint sample from  Home Depot  (the green) and $4.00  on 1×4’s. The rest of the materials I  had on hand.   So,  $8.00?  I would count that as a win!

In conclusion,  if you have an  old table sitting around,  that  could use a little more than just paint ?  I would consider this option.  It creates a little more high-end look for  cheap.  Anotheradvantage to using this approach ?  You can easily make mis-matched tables look uniform!  No one would ever know that these tables aren’t originally part of a set. Booyah

Take Luck,

Corey

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