<\/figure>\n\n\n\nSo the next step, is transferring the measurement of the boxes to the base cap trim and then cut. When cutting the trim I use a miter saw set to a 45 degree angle. Remember when cutting you measure from the longest point to longest point. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Add Caulk <\/h2>\n\n\n\n Now that I have my trim pieces cut and ready, it is time to install. Typically when installing trim work an adhesive or caulk is used. I have found that a good flexible caulk is just the ticket! I like to use DAP Alex Flex Caulk and DAP Alex Fast Dry when working with PVC trim. <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n After installing a lot of trim, I have deemed this the easiest way when working with flimsy base cap… apply the caulk directly to the wall! I already have my lines drawn in and so I know exactly where it needs to go. This is especially handy technique when handling long pieces of trim! (Imagine trying to put a 73″ piece of flimsy trim on the wall (well over your head) with caulk on the back. As you can imagine the caulk often times gets smeared on the wall in places it should not be.) By putting the caulk on the wall I simply press the trim on to the wall, and it is a little more forgiving as I push it into place with less mess and smearing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\nSomething to Consider: There are differing opinions when it comes to adhesive vs. caulk when applying trim. I like using DAP Caulk on PVC trim because it does an excellent job of holding the trim but it is a little more forgiving than an adhesive and less damaging to drywall should I ever choose to remove the trim. For heavier trim and paneling I ALWAYS opt for DAP DynaGrip.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nAttach Base Cap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Seeing as the boxes are already drawn on the wall, it takes a lot of the think work out of the install process. When securing the base cap to the wall I like to use a spacer block and a pin nailer. (Remember before how I said that I used a 1×4″ board when drawing in my lines. I also used the same 1×4 when installing the base cap.) It works as a great spacer and makes for perfect lines! As far as securing it to the wall, PVC base cap is very light and does not need heavy duty fasteners. In all reality just DAP Plus Caulk is all I would need to hold it securely, but I am impatient and a pin nailer is the perfect clamp to hold the trim to the wall while it dries. <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n When securing the trim I like to nail directly at the to top go the ridge. While many DIYers try to hide their fasteners in the grooves, I prefer have the fastener hole top and center it makes for a quick fill and repair! <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\nRepeat the application process on all four side of your boxes. Again, if you outline your boxes on the wall with pencil this is a nearly painless process! <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Fill Holes <\/h2>\n\n\n\n Again, I’m a HUGE advocate for using a pin nailer on light weight trim. It is the perfect gauge for the job and creates a very small hole. It makes for a very quick repair using DAP Plastic Wood. It only takes a very little bit of DAP Plastic Wood to fill all the holes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\nRemember how I said that I like to drive the pin\/nail directly through the top ridge? By doing so it makes it incredibly easy to fill, and subsequently sand! After the Plastic Wood is dry I follow up using a sanding sponge. The nail hole completely disappears! <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\nCaulk Seams <\/h2>\n\n\n\n Last step for creating beautiful picture frame molding, is hiding all the flaws. When it comes to hiding flaws DAP Alex Fast Dry Caulk is your best friend. It can take a mediocre trim job to a seemingly flawless execution!<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n I run a small bead of caulk around the perimeter, as well as the interior of each trim box. If you want to see more about this step make sure you check out my saved highlight reel on Instagram along with my video. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Paint <\/h2>\n\n\n\n It’s time to paint! (Great news, Alex Plus Caulk has a dry time of 20 minutes! As soon as you get all your paint supplies assembled you are pretty much good to go!) <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n(If you so choose you can add a primer. In the past I have found that if you use a good paint with primer you can forgo this step when painting drywall.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Well, there you have it folks… what do you think? I used about 20 pieces of trim on my main wall, which comes out to a little over $100. I think the money and the little bit of elbow grease was definitely worth it! Picture frame molding took this blank boring wall and transformed this room into a moody, sophisticated space. <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n Thanks for following along and make sure you check out the full room reveal coming soon! <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Take Luck, <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Corey <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sources:<\/p>\n
\nPaint Color- “1905 Green” by Magnolia Home Paints <\/li>\n Floor- Select Surfaces “Cocoa Walnut”<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"I have recently become obsessed with picture frame molding. There is something about the subtle sophistication that I simply cannot get enough of! Naturally, as I was designing my primary bedroom makeover, picture frame molding was at the top of my list. I have never done picture frame molding but I was amazed at how […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":8861,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_mi_skip_tracking":false,"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\n
How to: Sophisticated Picture Frame Molding - Sawdust 2 Stitches<\/title>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n