{"id":2579,"date":"2015-06-04T06:00:00","date_gmt":"2015-06-04T10:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/sawdust2stitches.com\/?p=2579"},"modified":"2017-05-03T22:38:39","modified_gmt":"2017-05-04T02:38:39","slug":"secret-gun-compartment-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sawdust2stitches.com\/secret-gun-compartment-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Secret Compartment Mirror (Part 2)"},"content":{"rendered":"
After the the moveable trim is in place, flip the entire case over so that you can easily see the inside of the case while it is closed.<\/p>\n
At this point we will be placing 1 1\/2 ” eyelet hooks on both the upper and lower lids. These eyelet hooks are intended to be placed so that the 4″ bolt (1\/4″ threaded rod)<\/em> will pass through both “eyes”. I have included some measurements on the images below. However, I would make sure that the bolt will easily go in and out of the hooks, when the trim is pulled out and pushed in, before securing the hooks in place.<\/p>\n The first eyelet hook will be attached to the lower lid, approximately 1 1\/4″ from the side.<\/p>\n <\/a> The second eyelet hook is a little bit trickier. I had to screw it into a piece of 1×3″ and then place the block on the upper lid in order to get the correct placement. Again, make sure that it is placed so that the bolt (1\/4″ threaded rod) will easily clear it when in motion. Note: The eyelet on the upper lid (the second one featured above) is not entirely necessary. If the trim piece you attached to hid the gap is secured well, it will prevent the upper lid from opening until the lower lid is unlocked. When making this I did not realized that the trim would hold it in place as well as it does. However, if you are concerned about it being more secure, add the extra eyelet hook for peace of mind.<\/em><\/p>\n Grid-<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n For the grid I used a piece of trim that is 3\/4″ wide and 1\/4″ deep.<\/p>\n Cut List:<\/strong><\/p>\n (2 x) – 47 3\/8″ long point to long point with 45 degree angles on ends<\/p>\n (4 x) – 47 3\/8″<\/p>\n (41 x)- 5 1\/8″<\/p>\n (4 x) – 5 7\/8″ from the long point of a 45 to a straight cut<\/a><\/p>\n <\/a>Once the (red) trim piece is placed proceed to layout the rest of the pieces. I would STRONGLY suggest laying out all the pieces AND mirrors before you start attaching. Just to be safe.<\/p>\n Once all pieced are placed, and fitting correctly, proceed to glue all the components in place. If possible reinforce with 3\/8″ finishing nails on the trim. I used liquid nails to place the mirrors without any incidents.<\/p>\n Mirrors<\/a>– I made this around Christmas time, and during the Holidays I was able to find these mirrors at the Dollar Tree. ( They are technically for candle placement.) Tracking down 40 was not an easy feat, I enlisted a few friends to help me track these down. ( Thank you friends!) This is a large part a reason why I have put off this tutorial, I wanted to track down a new source. I still do see these at the Dollar Tree from time to time, but not steadily. After looking through MANY stores I found that the cheapest way to purchase the mirrors (other than dollar tree) was online. Here is a link to the best option I could find: Mirrors<\/a><\/p>\n Install Hardware-<\/p>\n I used Gas Struts<\/a> on mine, this will allow it to have the slow open action. These are not entirely necessary. You can use a cheaper\/easier method and use a basic support hinge. They are only a few dollars at your local hardware. I only used the Gas Struts<\/a> because this was a gift for my husband, and he kind of geeks out about that kind of thing. (Follow the instructions included in your hardware when installing.)<\/p>\n I also installed a slow close dampeners, <\/a>again not completely necessary, but again, my husband finds that stuff cool. These are also available at most home improvement stores. (Follow the instructions included in your hardware when installing.)<\/p>\n Another “extra” was a motion sensing light. I found one that is battery operated and flips on when the door opens. Again, not necessary, and in some cases not entirely ideal. But my husband thought it was awesome!<\/p>\n The last thing to consider is how and where you are planning on mounting your case. There are two options: The easier being a cleat system, using a system like this: 18″ low profile French Cleat with Hardware<\/a>. (2) cleats would be required for this project.<\/p>\n Or a more secure approach would be securing it to the wall with lag screws. When I originally made this, I was playing the whole thing by ear, and making it up as I went. As a result the approach to mounting it was a little interesting. As you can see in the image below.<\/p>\n
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Installing:<\/h3>\n