Holy GOODNESS!  Am I the only one that gets every room about 91% completed, and then just give up?  I am guilty of this on so many occasions!  Thankfully I have wonderful sponsors like The Home Depot, and FEIT Lighting to give me nudges of encouragement! Today I am more than excited to officially  share my completed home office!

This room has  slowly made a huge transformation over the past year.   Here is a quick reminder to jog your memory.  Obviously, a lot of work has been done.  But it was still missing something…  It needed a light fixture with character!  I wanted it to have the industrial look I crave, while still having  hint of the vintage vibe. 

I had briefly searched, and had no immediate luck, so I quickly gave up and left  the room at 91% and moved on to the next. Well, that all changed when I fell head over heals for this beauty: Mayfield Park Collection Oval Chandelier

 It was everything I never knew I always needed!  It obviously  had that great industrial look character… but when  I paired it with the FEIT  Vintage  Style Light Bulbs ?! This thing sang it’s own hosanna. Seriously,  check out how amazing these bulbs are!  That  filament is gorgeous, AND would you ever guess they are LED?  That’s right, they are LED with a vintage ambient glow. 

There are few things in life that bring me quite as much satisfaction as walking by a completely finished room!   It has been a year in the making but we made it old friend.

In case you missed some of the projects that led up to this rooms completion here are  a few of the DIY projects you can make on your own!

Simpson Strong-Tie Shelving 

 Dated Cabinet Makeover

Free Standing Crate Organizer  

Muslin Curtains 

 I am amazed and ecstatic that one small change like a light fixture can completely transform a room! Now that this room is OFFICIALLY  done,  I am off to finish up the master bedroom.  Make sure you stay tuned,  because it is gonna be good!

Take Luck,

 Corey

I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in this FEIT ELECTRIC Program (the “Program”). As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

The post Home Office Makeover appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Rustic Farmhouse Coffee Table.   

What I hadn’t realized is that my friend Crissie from Sawdust to Sequins  had made her own version of this amazing Arhaus table… Great minds think alike, right ?!  Well, we decided to put both of our creative brains together and round out the collection! So today  I will show you how to make a Book Shelf, and then you can head on over and check out Sawdust to Sequins GORGEOUS rendition of a Media Console! 

I’m  also excited  to be  teaming  up with the great folks over at HomeRight on this  project! It is through  great companies like HomeRight and affiliate links that I can continue to provide all these tutorials at zero additional cost to my readers! So a big thank you to them!  (More info. available here.)  Make sure you enter to win your very own paint tent at the end of the post!   

Rustic Farmhouse Book Shelf 

Supplies Used:

• (13 ) 1″x 3″ Boards
• (10 ) 1″x 4″ Boards
• (40)  3/4″ x 5/16″Hex Bolts (Optional)
• (40) 5/16″ Washers
• Spray Paint (Optional)
• Stain and/or Paint
• Wood Glue
• 1 1/2″ Finish Nails
• 1 1/4″ Wood Screws

Tools Suggested:

• Drill
• Drill Bit
• Miter Saw
• Nail Gun
• Homeright Small Spray Shelter
• Homeright Spray Shelter
• HomeRight Finish Max Fine Finish Sprayer

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1.

 Cut List:

1’x 3″ Boards

• (2) @ 84 9/16″ (Short to long with 21 degree angles. See Step 4. for details.)
• (8) @ 83 1/2″ (Vertical Legs)
• (10) @ 21″ (Horizontal Supports)

1″x 4″ Boards

• (20) @ 40″

 Step 2.  Assemble Legs

Sandwich the 21″ horizontal supports in-between the 83 1/2″ legs.  Use the diagram below to reference the correct spacing.   Use wood glue to secure and reinforce with 1 1/2″ finish nails. Repeat, and repeat. (You will need two of these.)

 Step 3.  Add Horizontal Planks

This step you are going to want an extra set of hands.  The 40″ planks will be spanned across the two vertical “legs”.  When securing the boards to the frame,  you can either use a touch of wood glue, and reinforce with 1 1/2″ finish nails, or you can pre-drill (or Spax screws which do not require pre-drilling) and use 1 1/2″ wood screws.

 Step 4.  “X” Support

To make this “X” support I used a “half-lap” joint.  (You can see a example in the image below.)  This is typically  done using either table saw, or a router.

In the event that  this is a little too fancy for your tastes,  you can use a simpler more “rustic”  approach.  You can always lay the first support in place and secure the crap out of the  support directly on the back of the shelf and then  attach the remaining support to the center of the  first (already attached) support.  Then  “toe-nail” (nail it at an angle” and  attach the tops corners of the support to the vertical slats.

  Step 5.  Spray Stain

Time to add the finish.   For this project I knew I wanted it to be stained, but really  did not feel like getting in the all nooks and crannies of this build… and let’s face it, I am a touch impatient.  So I pulled out my trusty sprayer, and went to town. (Yes,  you can use stain in a sprayer!)  I just popped up my HomeRight Spray Shelter and was good to go.  Honestly, if you are at all a do-it-yourselfer this spray tent is ideal.  It is big enough to fit large projects but small enough to fit in a garage!

You can read all the details on how I made and stained my coordinating  Rustic Farmhouse Coffee Table Here. 

 Step 7.  Add Hardware (optional)

If you would like to add a little more character to this table, then try adding some hardware! I used 3/4″ hex bolts, and added washers to bulk up their  appearance. I simply  drilled 5/16″ holes through the center of the posts.

Before adding the bolts I decided to use spray paint to customize the color.(Pictured: Rust-oleum Soft Iron)

When inserting the bolts, I added a small dab of glue to the inside of the drilled hole. ( I wanted to make sure that the bolts didn’t mysteriously  go missing.)

 There you have it !  It makes a  beautiful addition to the Coffee Table,  OR…

…it  looks great all by itself!

Looking for more inspiration, make sure you check out Sawdust to Sequins take on a Media Console!

Take Luck, and make sure you enter the HomeRight Giveaway!

Corey

ENTER TO WIN !!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

The post Rustic Farmhouse Book Shelf appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

My husband had specific wants for his desk and you can find all the details on that build HERE.  I wanted to use galvanized wire rope to hang the shelves because I thought it would give it a nice light feel that was a bit different and a bit masculine.  We decided we didn’t need anymore cabinets in this area and wanted to let that cool plank wall shine.

My husband wanted a whiteboard to write formulas on, but whiteboards aren’t very pretty.  So, instead of the whiteboard, I carefully hung a piece of plexiglass to use as a whiteboard.  This allows that planked wall to show still but also gives him a place to write.  Then I built the shelves around the plexiglass.

I started this project by laying out the shelves.  I built the desk and measured the back edge.  I wanted the shelves to stretch the entire length of the back of the desk overall, but each board I cut a little shorter than the entire length.   I didn’t measure out this part, I just sort of randomly cut them.  I used random cords to eyeball about where I wanted the wire to hang.  This just gives it a little more dimension.

Next, I laid them on top of each other and drilled four holes in each corner of each board.  I made the edges line up, then clamped them together. I drilled all the holes at once, so the edges would line up with the edge of the desk and the wire would hang straight.  For the two longer shelves, I also drilled two holes on the other side for support.

Next it was time to sand and stain.  I wanted to do something a bit different than just stain and I love the look of live edge furniture.  I keep seeing it everywhere and it’s beautiful.  The problem is, I can’t afford it and I don’t have the equipment to cut trees into nice, flat usable pieces.  So, when I saw THIS post over on Remodelaholic, I thought it was genius.  At first, I thought of doing this with the desk, but the way my husband wanted the desk laid out, it couldn’t get it to work.  But, I could create shelves with a live edge feel.   I followed her directions with the sanders. It was quick and easy to get the edges ready to go.

After getting the edges the way I wanted,  I did the stain a little different from the original blogger.  I had some leftover stain (I was trying to do this as cheaply as possible). I started with Minwax polyshades and used golden oak.  I stained the front and back of the boards first.  I didn’t worry about the stain bleeding over onto the side.  It actually works out better for it to bleed onto the side in some places.  In the next step, it will help add to the natural look of the wood.  Immediately after I painted the golden oak on both sides,  I took a small artist paintbrush and brushed on Minwax polyshades in Espresso along the beat up edge.  In the place where the golden oak had bled over really worked out nice. I did two coats in this manner, and since I used the polyshades, I didn’t need another coat of poly.

OnceI got the boards stained, it was time to hang them.  I bought galvanized wire kits at Walmart in the hardware section next to the rope.  I love them, they have the wires and great little stoppers in the box.  I started by hanging 4 d-rings in the correct places, right above the holes, on the horizontal board at the top of the wall.  If you don’t have a board like this, you’ll want to put in a dry wall anchor to hold the weight.  Next I ran then wires through the d-rings and all the holes.

I hung them all first starting with the top board and putting them close to where I wanted them.  The wire kits come with little u shaped clips that hook on right under the board.  All I did was hold the board as close to where I wanted it as I could and clip on one under each hole. Then leveled them off starting with the top board again and working down, pulling the wire taught as I went.  If you end up needed more stopper clips, you can actually pick them up at the hardware store for very cheap.

Once I had them all where I wanted, I used my new fun heavy duty bolt cutters to cut off the excess and that was pretty much it!  I styled it with our favorite team memorabilia and my husbands humidors, which desperately needed a home and the office seemed like the perfect spot.

See all the details on the home office, including the hardwood looking ceramic tile I installed HERE.

Thanksfor reading, and see you all back here soon!

Pin for later!
.

April – UnCookie Cutter

Followme over on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram  &  Twitter

The post Hanging Shelves with Faux Live Edge and Galvanized Wire appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Supplies Used:

• (2) 1″ x 6″ boards (96″)
• (2) 1″ x 2″ boards (96″)
• Stain
• Nail Filler
• 2″ 16 Gauge Nails
• Wood Glue

Tools Suggested:

• Miter Saw
• Nail Gun
• Sander
• Tape Measure

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1. Prep Boards

 Cut List:

1″ x 6″ Board

• (2) 25 1/2″
• (3) 24

1″ x 2″ Board

• (5) 25 1/2″
• (1) 24″

 Step 2. Frame

Join both 25 1/2″ and 24″ 1×6″ boards using wood glue and 2 inch, 16 gauge finishing nails. This will form a 25 1/2″ square. Insert remaining 24″ 1×6″ board so that the bottom of the board is 12″ from the top of the unit. Then secure using glue and 2″ 16 gauge finishing nails.

Step 3. Front Rails

Attach the 25 1/2″ 1×2″ board(s) to the face of the unit using wood glue and 2 inch 16 gauge finishing nails.

Step 4. Back Support

Attach the remaining 24″ 1×2″board using wood glue and 2 inch 16 gauge finishing nails. This is an ideal place to attach the unit to the wall, or you can attach hanging hardware to the back.

Step 5. Finish

Fill all nail holes with wood filler. Sand smooth, then apply desire stain and/or paint.

 That is all there is to it!  You can use it stand alone, or you can combine it with others !

 Pottery Barn Inspired Mug Rack

Pottery Barn Inspired Glass Rack 

Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Shelf 

For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also, follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

The post Pottery Barn Inspired Plate Rack appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

It is no secret that I am a big fan of the “Industrial” style furniture sensation. I love the bold look of metal mixed with softer wood tones. It is just a perfect match! So when I decided to give my office a face lift I decided to bring in metal textures to create that perfect “Industrial meets Farmhouse” look. With a little help from Simpson Strong-tie,  I think I totally NAILED IT with these Industrial Style Shelves.

If you are not familiar with Simpson Strong-tie then you are in for a real treat! They have a large range of connectors and fasteners that can strengthen and add character to any build!  Make sure you check out many other ideas like this at DIY Done Right

Supplies Used:

• (3)- 1″x 3″ boards
• (2)- 2″x 8″ boards
• (14) A-66 Simpson Strong-Tie 6″x 6″
• (6) A21Z Simpson Strong-Tie
• (49) 3/4″ Hex Head Screws  (or you can use a finish washer and 3/4″ screws)
• (7) 3″ Hex Head Screws  (or you can use a finish washer and 3/4″ screws)
• (24) 3/4″ button screws
• Spray Paint
• Steel Wool
• Stain
• Sandpaper

Tools Suggested:

• Miter Saw
• Drill
• Sander
• Level
• Tape Measure
• Square
• Pencil
• Safety Glasses
• Hearing Protection

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1. Prep Boards

 Cut List:

(3) 1″x 3″ boards @ 58 1/2”

(2) 2″x 8″ boards @ 48″

(1) 2″x 8″ boards @ 80″

Once cut, sand, and then finish with your preferred finish. I went with a “Dark Walnut”. Once it was completely dry I sanded down the edges a bit to give it a nice worn look.

 Step 2. Paint Simpson Strong-tie connectors

Next,  we are ready to give our hardware a little character! I wanted them to make a statement, but I still needed them to blend with the rest of the space. I opted for Rustoleum “Flat Iron Black”.  I spray painted all of my connectors and fasteners/screws all at once.

Here is a tip that I swear by; when painting screws, I like to enlist the help of craft/floral foam.  Simply push the screws/fasteners into the foam and go to town with spray paint! No rotating, flipping or chasing runaway screws. It is a total game changer!

 Step 3. Attach Angle Connectors

Begin by laying the 1″x 3″ boards next to each other. (Let’s pretend there are only 3 boards… I was planning on using 4 and then…plans changed alright ?!) Ok, so lay your 3  boards next to each other and use a contractors square to ensure they are all marked identically.

Using a hex head 3/4″ screw I attached the “A-66″ Simpson Strong-tie angle connectors to the 1″x 3″ boards. When attaching I did not fill some of the holes intended for screws.  I left them blank so that I could use them to secure them through the 1″x 3” and into the wall. (Basically don’t put hex screws in the red “x” ones. Reference the diagram below.)

When installing I used a few pieces of cut off from my 2″x 8″ board to make sure:

1.) They all line up evenly, and

2.) That when I was ready to install the horizontal shelves they would fit! (If you have ever installed a joist hanger, you know what I am talking about:)

Step 4. Mount to Wall

When mounting the 1″x 3″ boards to the wall, you want to make certain they are going into studs! Most standard walls have 16″ spaced studs. (Make sure you figure out your stud placement BEFORE planning your shelving configuration. Believe me I learned the hard way!)

Because my studs ARE 16″ from center to center, I chose to make my 1″x 3″ boards mounted 32″ apart. (16+16=32).

When attaching the 1″x 3″ boards to the wall I used 3″ hex head screws. (Although there are other options.) When installing make sure you have a level and tape measure hand to make sure you are installing them all level and uniformly!

Now for the easy part,  installing the horizontal ledges.  I began with the top shelf first. I positioned in centered between the two wall mounts.  Then using the 3/4″ hex screws I secured the brackets to the top and the bottom of the 2″x 8″  board/shelf.

Repeat the above step for the center shelf.

 For the last one… I am guessing you can make some fairly accurate assumptions…

In the event you truly are really lost,  repeat the steps for the first two shelves.  Bless your heart.

Step 5. Make it PRETTY!

The last thing needed is the remaining Simpson Strong-tie angles. Using a small  3/4″ button screw I attached the angles to the end of all of the 2″x 8″ boards/shelves.

Just look at those corners, instant character!

Well, there you have it folks, the perfect blend of industrial, farmhouse, form, and function for the win!

If you love the this look be sure to check out other really great project ideas that use Simpson Strong-Tie hardware at DIYDoneRight!

You can also find Simpson Strong-Tie on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram!

For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also, follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

 Take Luck,
Corey

The post Simpson Strong-Tie Wall Mounted Shelves appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey  friends,  I am sure  that many of you have organization on the brain.  I am a firm believer that you can create a organized space, AND make it beautiful at the same time.  In fact all of the pieces in my  home are aimed to be decorative while still serving a very useful purpose.  These new kitchen racks are no exception!  This Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Rack is  intended to clear up some cupboard space and use these in the dining room and or kitchen!   

How t0:  Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Shelf  

Supplies Used:

• (2) 1×6,  8′ Board
• (1) 1×2,  8″Board
• (1) 2″ 16 gauge nails
• (1) Wood Glue
• (2) Mounting Brackets
• Stain or Paint

Tools Suggested:

• Miter Saw
• Tape Measure
• Nail Gun
• Sander
• Safety Goggles
• Hearing Protection

Disclosure: Some of the links provided  are affiliate links. By purchasing through these links it supports this site and helps keep content free. You can read more about how we do this with no extra cost to you.

Step 1.

 Cut List:

• (2) Side Frame , 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 25 1/2″
• (1) Vertical Divider   3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x  24″
• (2) Top and Bottom Frame, 3/4″x 5 1/2 ” x 24″
• (3) Shelves, 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 11 3/4″
• (1) Shelf Divider, 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 7 1/2″
• (2) Front Rails, 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 25 1/2″
• (1) Back Support, 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 24″

 Step 2. Assemble Frame

Join both 25 1/2″ and 24″ 1×6″ boards using wood glue and 2 inch, 16 gauge finishing nails. This will form a 25 1/2″ square.

Step 3. Vertical Divider

Insert remaining 1″x 6″x 24″ board centered vertically. Glue and secure using 2″ 18 gauge finish nails.

Step 4. Shelf Insert

Using (2) of the 1″x 6″x 11 3/4″ boards and the 1″x 6″x 7 1/2″ board, and form a “I”. Make sure that the 7 1/2″ board is centered on both 11 3/4″ boards. Use wood glue and reinforce with 2″ 16 gauge finish nails.

Step 5. Shelves

Insert the pre-assembled “I” shelf so that the base of the bottom board is 17″ from the top of the unit. On the right hand side, insert the remaining 1″x 6″x 11 3/4″ board. Position it so that the bottom of the board is 13″ from the top of the unit.

Step 6. Front Rails

Attach the 25 1/2″ 1×2″ board(s) to the face of the unit using wood glue and 2 inch 16 gauge finishing nails.

Step 7 . Back Support

Attach the remaining 24″ 1×2″board using wood glue and 2 inch 16 gauge finishing nails. This is an ideal place to attach the unit to the wall, or you can attach hanging hardware to the back.

Step 8. Finish

Fill all nail holes with wood filler. Sand smooth, then apply desire stain and/or paint.

 That is all there is to it!  You can use it stand alone, or you can combine it with others !

 Pottery Barn Inspired Mug Rack

Pottery Barn Inspired Glass Rack 

Pottery Barn Inspired Plate Rack (Coming Soon)

For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also, follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

The post Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Shelf (Modular) appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

This Crate and Barrel inspired shelf is perfect for any space, literally! Whether you need to fill a wide space or a tall space, this unit has you covered. It is designed so that is can be rotated to fit your space needs. I am excited to be teaming up with the great folks over at BuildSomething.  You can find full build plans for this rotating shelf and many other FREE build plans over on their site!  Make sure you check out the plans HERE!
    

For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also, follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

The post Rotating Shelf appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Hey  friends,  I am sure  that many of you have organization on the brain.  I am a firm believer that you can create a organized space, AND make it beautiful at the same time.  In fact all of the pieces in my  home are aimed to be decorative while still serving a very useful purpose.  These new kitchen racks are no exception!  This Pottery Barn Inspired Glass Rack  is  intended to clear up some cupboard space and use these in the dining room and or kitchen!

If you missed last weeks, you can find the tutorial here for the Mug Storage here!

Pottery Barn Inspired Glass Rack

Materials Used:

• (1) -1″x 2″ board
• (2)- 1″x 6″ board
• 2′ 16 gauge nails

Suggested Tools:

• Jigsaw
• Miter saw
• Tape Measure
• Sander
• Nailer
• Wood Glue
• Mounting Brackets
• Paint or Stain

Cut List:

• (5) Shelves –            1″x  6″ x 24″
• (2) Sides-                 1″x 6″ x 25 1/2″
• (2) Front Rails –     1″x 2″ x 25 1/2″
• (1) Back Support-  1″x 2″ x 24″

Step 1. Glass Rack Cut Out-

The glass rack cutout will be made out of one of the 1″x 6″ x 24″ boards. Use a jigsaw to cut out 1′ wide and 3″ deep cut outs. Use the dimensions on the diagram to find the center to center placement of the cutouts.

Step 2.  Frame-

Join both 25 1/2″ and 24″ 1×6″ boards using wood glue and 2 inch, 16 gauge finishing nails. This will form a 25 1/2″ square. Secure using glue and 2″ 16 gauge finishing nails. 

 Step 4. Shelves-

Step 5. Front Rails

Attach the 25 1/2″ 1 x 2″ board(s) to the face of the unit using wood glue and 2 inch 16 gauge finishing nails.

Step 6. Back Support-

Attach the remaining 24″ 1×2″board using wood glue and 2 inch 16 gauge finishing nails. This is an ideal place to attach the unit to the wall, or you can attach hanging hardware to the back.

For sneak peeks of my upcoming projects be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram. You can also, follow me on Pinterest to get tons of projects plans from all around the web!

Don’t miss out on the other Modular Kitchen Cubbies that coordinate with this Glass Rack!

Pottery Barn Inspired Mug Rack 

Pottery Barn Inspired Plate Rack (Coming Soon)

Pottery Barn Inspired Cubby Rack (Coming Soon)

The post Pottery Barn Inspired Glass Rack (Modular) appeared first on Sawdust 2 Stitches.